YT Capra vs Santa Cruz Nomad- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    YT Capra vs Santa Cruz Nomad

    Hey Guys,

    All Mtn here trying to close my decision on bikes. How does the Capra compare to the nomad?

    Ill be using the bike for:
    15-20 mph technical riding
    2-3 foot jumps
    plenty of hill climbing
    and being playful.

    If if you believe that the Ibis HD3 is better than those two bikes for my needs, then let me know but also please tell me your opinion on those 2 bikes. I've heard good things about yeti bikes, but am not interetested after hearing how their newer bikes arn't playful like the bikes listed.

  2. #2
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    Reach: Capra = 17.52", Nomad = 17.24"
    Stack: Capra = 23.69", Nomad = 23.89"
    Chainstay: Capra = 16.93", Nomad = 17.05"
    HA: Capra = 65.2*, Nomad = 65*
    Seat tube angle: Capra = 75*, Nomad = 74.2*

    Based on that there's nothing in it. Flip a coin and I'd say you'll be pretty happy with either.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    Reach: Capra = 17.52", Nomad = 17.24"
    Stack: Capra = 23.69", Nomad = 23.89"
    Chainstay: Capra = 16.93", Nomad = 17.05"
    HA: Capra = 65.2*, Nomad = 65*
    Seat tube angle: Capra = 75*, Nomad = 74.2*
    haha thank you. I'm thinking that the ibis would be my bike. These two bikes will only be slightly better at downhill, but a lot worse at uphill than the ibis. The nomad is clearly meant for more speed, and it is meant for plowing through all the crap. I want to go slower, and hit those really technical areas. That would be a job for the ibis.

  4. #4
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    For sure, it does seem like man people are subscribing to the "less is more" theory, bikes like the Transition Scout and Yeti SB5C really blur the lines between XC/Trail and All Mountain/Enduro. It's a hard call to make, but if you're more of a slow and technical rather than a flat-out free-ride/enduro type guy then going for a "smaller" more playful bike certainly makes sense. I'd think out of the bikes you've listed the Ibis would probably be the one to go for.

  5. #5
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    I probably have the same style with you, I enjoy rock garden, some jumps here and there, nothing crazy. also enjoy climbing, some long one.
    I would get HD3 for do it all bike.
    Nomad and Capra will be too much bike, and sacrifice climbing too much.
    Even HD3 maybe too much bike, good climber, and playful, I never like XC bike either.
    just my opinion.

    I have ridden Nomad on climbing, quite impressive being a big bike like that, just short climb, it did good.
    I never tried Capra nor HD3, but I own Mojo SL for awhile now, with 650b, angle set to make it 67.5 degree head angle. love this bike, climbs like goat, downhill not bad at all, certainly Nomad is much better downhiller.

    I heard HD3 climbs better than Mojo SL, that is insane.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by inter View Post
    I probably have the same style with you, I enjoy rock garden, some jumps here and there, nothing crazy. also enjoy climbing, some long one.
    I would get HD3 for do it all bike.
    Nomad and Capra will be too much bike, and sacrifice climbing too much.
    Even HD3 maybe too much bike, good climber, and playful, I never like XC bike either.
    just my opinion.

    I have ridden Nomad on climbing, quite impressive being a big bike like that, just short climb, it did good.
    I never tried Capra nor HD3, but I own Mojo SL for awhile now, with 650b, angle set to make it 67.5 degree head angle. love this bike, climbs like goat, downhill not bad at all, certainly Nomad is much better downhiller.

    I heard HD3 climbs better than Mojo SL, that is insane.
    I think the Nomad is aimed ad a professional rider. Huge drops and fast enough climbs.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    For sure, it does seem like man people are subscribing to the "less is more" theory, bikes like the Transition Scout and Yeti SB5C really blur the lines between XC/Trail and All Mountain/Enduro. It's a hard call to make, but if you're more of a slow and technical rather than a flat-out free-ride/enduro type guy then going for a "smaller" more playful bike certainly makes sense. I'd think out of the bikes you've listed the Ibis would probably be the one to go for.
    Thanks. I've also seen how well the ibis can handle technical terrain. Not at all a bad downhiller in the bike industry. But it isn't as good as the best nomad.

  8. #8
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    Both Capra and Nomad are DH oriented bikes so it's only natural that they will do worse on uphill (still nomad shocked me how well he rided up).But from what you say i know that nomad will be able to handle those without problem.I never rided Capra but had a chance to ride Nomad and it's good bike.I wanted to buy it (for some FR too) but cash that i had to spend on bike (4k euro) wasn't enough so i ended up with Canyon Strive (and i'm happy).

  9. #9
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    Here's a linkage analysis comparison between both bikes


  10. #10
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    Capra is better at high speed chunk due to the progressive ramp up at the end of the stroke. It has more of a bottomless feel than the Nomad. Watch above video. Both climb extremly well for what they are and both climb better than AM bikes of just a few years ago. That said I think you would be happier on a smaller bike like the Bronson or Trance. 140-150mm bikes are extremly capable these days and would more than handle the type of riding you are describing. For the money Capra can't be beat. If money is no object the Capra still can't be beat.

  11. #11
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    ^^Andrextr's vids don't take into effect shock tunes nor overall bike capabilities. Basing an opinion on how a bike will ride from his vids is just plain silly. Case in point... the Iron Horse Sunday was one of the most dominant downhill bikes of ALL TIME and it had a REGRESSIVE suspension rate! So much for computer modeling theory and overall understanding of integrating shock tunes into suspension design... Those vids are fun but hardly all-encompassing.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    ^^Andrextr's vids don't take into effect shock tunes nor overall bike capabilities. Basing an opinion on how a bike will ride from his vids is just plain silly. Case in point... the Iron Horse Sunday was one of the most dominant downhill bikes of ALL TIME and it had a REGRESSIVE suspension rate! So much for computer modeling theory and overall understanding of integrating shock tunes into suspension design... Those vids are fun but hardly all-encompassing.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    I totally agree. No it doesn't paint the whole picture but it can help describe how it "may" behave under certain scenarios. I can't explain why and I don't have any tech videos to prove what I feel when I ride my Capra or my other bikes but more often than not I feel his videos are pretty darn close to how the bike behaves with its stock shock tune. The Capra comes with a ML tuned shock. I don't know what anything else feels like on the Capra cause it's so damn good I haven't felt the need to change it. Someone on Pinkbike removed one of the bands on the monarch (Capra) and said it felt more like a coil, more plush, more planted, but less playfull. So yeah there are always aftermarket mods to change things up. What's better is up to you, how you ride and your local terrain.

  13. #13
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    I understand your concernings, and I will talk about this in a future episode since many people share the same view.

    Indeed,

    The shock tune does not affect the axle path, the anti-squat %, the brake dependency, leverage ratio and the pedal kickback....

    The shock volume and damping tune will only change the curve of forces. Nevertheless, even with a stiff tune on a linear bike, you can't reach a progressivity of a Capra even with a soft tune.... Increasing the progressivity by messing with the damping tune creates harshness in a speed-sensitive way. So, leverage ratio is very important to get the desired progressivity & behaviour without messing around to much with the shock properties...

    I will explain and demonstrate these parameters (anti-rise, kickback, and anti-squat) in detail in future episodes. I know that some of them seem to be "dark magic" but they are quite simple to understand. So, it's not just useless computer modelling. It has real-world effects. Maybe when people start to understand them, they will give it more importance.

    But, yes, of course a good shock, a good geo, good components, all of them are important and have a great contribution to the overall performance. But, with poorly optimized kinematics, you can't reach a good performance, even with a good shock! So, kinematics play a very important role. It's 50-50 !

    Bye

  14. #14
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    I love your technical info andrextr. I asked you a question on pinkbike about putting an air shock on my 2012 trek session. You said cause it had a linear linkage rate it would be well suited with an air shock. In the above post you said increasing the progressiveness with dampening will lead to harshness. Will my trek feel harsh with an air shock? (float x2) thanks again for the great info


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  15. #15
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    Hi !

    Damping forces (compression, blue knobs) and Spring forces (air or coil) are different things!

    While spring absorbs the bump energy, the compression damping dissipates bump energy (oil flow restriction -> hidraulic friction -> heat). Increasing the compression (HSC) increases the bottom-out resistance (progressivity) but creates harshness on small square edge hits (spiking). Decreasing the volume of the Float X2 also increases the progressivity, but doesn't affect the sensitivity on small square edge bumps.

    So, if you feel that the Session is bottoming out too much on your tracks, put some spacers first. Use the compression knobs, specially the LSC, to increase the overall chassi stability but don't over do it since you might loose sensitivity.



    Hope it makes sense for you.
    Bye

  16. #16
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    It makes perfect sense. Thanks again for the info. I sure wish fox could give me feedback like this lol


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