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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeRad View Post
    What's the tune code on your shock?
    D8JD. I don't think this will matter though? It should be noticeably stiff according to Fox customer service

    I also, just went outside to test. I turned the fork to full firm compression and it didn't move at all as expected....

    I unlock or lock my rear shock via the TwistLoc. It still moves basically the same so it looks like this lockout is not even working?? It is not stiff like the full compression at the front fork at all. The rear suspension will bob up and down. Even after adding cable tension or removing cable tension at either end. Sigh. I'm going to lose my mind chasing this lol.

    Edit: I'm just going to pull all air pressure out of the rear and re-add.

    Editx2: Yup, can confirm re-adding air did nothing. I am literally questioning if I'm a mouth breather at this point who isn't hardcore enough

  2. #402
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    My XL shock has D2H8. Locked v. unlocked is super obvious. I've started downhill a couple of times with it locked out by accident or bumped the button to lock it and Oh, boy not good for going down.

    My Twistloc is still working just fine.
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  3. #403
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    I ended up calling Fox and gave them my tune code of D7Y7. I was told that this was a Push to Lock shock. This seems highly improbable to me but it is consistent with my bike's behavior. Can anyone decrypt the tune code and what it means?

    *Edit: To clarify: seems highly improbable that everyone is getting push to unlock while I'm getting a push to lock.

  4. #404
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    Anyone fitted a 175 transfer dropper (or similar length other brand) in a large frame

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeRad View Post
    I ended up calling Fox and gave them my tune code of D7Y7. I was told that this was a Push to Lock shock. This seems highly improbable to me but it is consistent with my bike's behavior. Can anyone decrypt the tune code and what it means?

    *Edit: To clarify: seems highly improbable that everyone is getting push to unlock while I'm getting a push to lock.
    D7Y7 - 2021, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Evol LV, PTL, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRL, CMF, [MY20] Stealth Logo

    D2H8 -
    2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Evol LV, PTU, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRM, CMF, YS-728_Matt/YS-728_Matt Logo

    D8JD - 2021, FLOAT DPS, P-Se, A, Remote down, Evol LV, PTL, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRL, CMF, [MY20] Standard Logo


  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Undescended View Post
    D7Y7 - 2021, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Evol LV, PTL, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRL, CMF, [MY20] Stealth Logo

    D2H8 -
    2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Evol LV, PTU, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRM, CMF, YS-728_Matt/YS-728_Matt Logo

    D8JD - 2021, FLOAT DPS, P-Se, A, Remote down, Evol LV, PTL, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRL, CMF, [MY20] Standard Logo
    Thanks for the assist Undescended. PTL on mine and rherold9ís. Iím assuming rherold9 has the same problem I had with a slightly undertensioned remote lockout cable leaving the shock always open.

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Undescended View Post
    D7Y7 - 2021, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Evol LV, PTL, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRL, CMF, [MY20] Stealth Logo

    D2H8 -
    2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Evol LV, PTU, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRM, CMF, YS-728_Matt/YS-728_Matt Logo

    D8JD - 2021, FLOAT DPS, P-Se, A, Remote down, Evol LV, PTL, YT, Izzo, 210, 55, 0.2 Spacer, LCM, LRL, CMF, [MY20] Standard Logo
    That's interesting. Some bikes are push to unlock but the others are push to lock. Weird that YT wouldn't spec them all the same.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by sptimmy43 View Post
    That's interesting. Some bikes are push to unlock but the others are push to lock. Weird that YT wouldn't spec them all the same.
    Iíve posed the question as to what the spec is going forward to San Clemente and will report back...

  9. #409
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    So, mine is PTL -> Push-To-Lock. Meaning default is open and I twist down to lock?... Welp I guess I need to take air out again. I filled it twisted down aka with it locked... Probably why I can't feel a difference much. That's also good in the fact that my TwistLoc is popping back to open on its own if that's truely the case and I've been open this whole time and why it hasn't felt like a hardtail at all.

    I also agree that it doesn't make sense that YT specced these different? Wonder if they even know? Hahaha

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by rherold9 View Post
    I also agree that it doesn't make sense that YT specced these different? Wonder if they even know? Hahaha
    It sure made it difficult to help you when the assumption was they were all push to unlock. The early online reviews all mentioned it and those of us who were fortunate enough to get bikes early on all had the same experience.

    I wonder if it has to do with the level of shock on the bike i.e. factory vs. performance series? Maybe it was just a rolling production change like including revised shock pumps with bikes going forward?

  11. #411
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    San Clemente replied PTL is the spec going forward as a result of the twist-loc issues

  12. #412
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    Everything makes much more sense now. I guess if this replacement TwistLoc decides to not work again I'll just remove it all together. Phew. I assume others can then also get theirs retuned to the same PTL vs PTU. Just sucks that the early bikes got the shorter end of the stick here I guess if their lock mech stops working

    I'm curious if this is in the manuals then? Or just something for us to figure out? I hope the former, but I know a lot of people don't read them fully

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Undescended View Post
    San Clemente replied PTL is the spec going forward as a result of the twist-loc issues
    Makes sense. It would have been easier if YT support mentioned this instead of sending me the link to Fox technical pages. I thought I was going crazy.

  14. #414
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    I just ordered my Izzo Pro about a week ago as my very first FS bike (and then promptly broke my collarbone, yuck). Anyway, I have a couple questions for you Izzo experts:

    1. How concerned should I be about the SRAM G2 brakes? I had a set of Elixirs on my hard tail and they were AWFUL. Iíve been running XTs and XTRs on that hardtail and a SS ever since and I love them. Iíve heard bad things about the Guides, havenít heard much about the G2s yet. Anyway, should I order a set of XTs now and sell the G2s while theyíre still new when the bike gets here? Or give the G2s a chance?

    2. I race once in a while. Have done a couple 100s and other marathons... I mostly got this bike for fun trips and to be a little more comfortable on longer rides vs the hardtail. That being said, I wouldnít mind doing a couple marathons or stage races next summer (COVID permitting). If I wanted to drop a pound or 2 off this bike, what would be the best upgrades to make?

    Happy trails!

  15. #415
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    I'm a fan of the G2 brakes and the Guides they replaced. I know that prior to that SRAM didn't have a good reputation for brakes, but I've had no issues. Until owning the Izzzo, I had XT on one bike and Guide RSC on the other. I preferred the Guide slightly. The only downside is the use of DOT fluid which requires more care when bleeding than Shimano mineral oil.

    The best way to drop a pound or two was to go Pro Race instead of Pro. Honestly. It's going to be expensive otherwise.
    Bicycling is politics by other means.

  16. #416
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    Sounds like I better change my order...

  17. #417
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    The Pro is a very nice build and makes economic sense IMO. However, it's hard to see where you could "cheaply" drop much weight. Maybe replace the tires with Ardent Race in front and Ikon in the rear (save 1/2 lb maybe?).

    The Pro Race has the DT Swic XMC carbon wheels which are under 1500 grams (so ~250 grams saved).

    Pro Race has XO1 which isn't a huge savings but the cassette provides decent savings (~100 grames?). The XO1 cranks are also decent savings over GX (another 100?)

    The Pro already has carbons bars and a light stem. The DT Swiss 1700s are also pretty light for non-carbon (and close to many carbon wheelsets). So most of the "easy" savings aren't going to be so easy.

    Just my opinion though. I went through this myself and ended up with the Pro Race but one is paying a chunk more for something that is functionally (except for a pound or two) very similar.
    Bicycling is politics by other means.

  18. #418
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    Gotcha, so those 3 components basically account for the .8 lb difference between the Pro and Pro Race.

    I think Iíll stick with the Pro and ride it as is until I get back in shape from this darn collarbone snap. Then maybe look at a carbon wheel set next summer. And maybe new cassette depending on the wear of the original.

    Thanks for all the info!

  19. #419
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    On a prior bike I had trouble with SRAM brakes heating up in the sun and then locking. Iíve read that it was a tolerance issue with the piston in the brake lever housing. Multiple warranty claims didnít fix the issue. This was 2015-2017 manufacturing though. So far, I really enjoy the G2ís.

    For me, the carbon cranks and carbon hoops are worth the extra $ on the Pro Race build. .8 might not seem like a lot but thatís all rotating weight which makes a significant difference. Fox Transfer dropper is nice although I have no experience with the YT Postman.

    I only race my friends yet Iíd definitely buy the Pro Race again.

  20. #420
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    Hi All,

    I just picked up my Launch Edition, and the first thing I notice is that the lockout doesn't work. I spent all day today trying to fix it, and it is not related to the cable. The twist locks, and release very smoothly, there is no slack in cable. when it is not twist, the shock should be locked (trail, firm), mine is soft. when I twist the remote, the shock is still soft, therefore, my shock is always open.

    so I removed the cable from the shock, and the shock should be locked (trail, firm), but still soft. then I remove the pre-tension from the blue dial on the shock, the shock then firm. however, without pre-tension, the twist remote doesn't work correctly now, when I twist, it is lose and doesn't have enough tension to open the shock.

    anyone of you have this problem? I think I have a defected shock.

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by k67iceberg View Post
    ...anyone of you have this problem? I think I have a defected shock.
    Berad and rherold9 brought it up a day or so ago which led us to the determination that the shock spec has changed to Push to Lock. Check your shock tune code on the Fox Help page. If yours says PTL, then default position is Open.

  22. #422
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    I read that also, but mine is always open, you twist lock or push unlock. Shock is open, it does not firm up at all.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackson Rich View Post
    I just ordered my Izzo Pro about a week ago as my very first FS bike (and then promptly broke my collarbone, yuck). Anyway, I have a couple questions for you Izzo experts:

    1. How concerned should I be about the SRAM G2 brakes? I had a set of Elixirs on my hard tail and they were AWFUL. Iíve been running XTs and XTRs on that hardtail and a SS ever since and I love them. Iíve heard bad things about the Guides, havenít heard much about the G2s yet. Anyway, should I order a set of XTs now and sell the G2s while theyíre still new when the bike gets here? Or give the G2s a chance?

    2. I race once in a while. Have done a couple 100s and other marathons... I mostly got this bike for fun trips and to be a little more comfortable on longer rides vs the hardtail. That being said, I wouldnít mind doing a couple marathons or stage races next summer (COVID permitting). If I wanted to drop a pound or 2 off this bike, what would be the best upgrades to make?

    Happy trails!
    I rode all shimano brakes for a few years and now prefer SRAM brakes. The production issues that SRAM was dealing with a couple years ago are resolved and the newer Guides and G2s are very reliable. The G2s specifically are very nice brakes. They have a powerful and consistent lever feel which I have found lacking in Shimano brakes, specifically the XTs. My only gripe with the G2s is that I wish they came with metallic/sintered pads but I'll happily wear the organics out and swap them then. I also prefer SRAM's matchmaker setup to Shimano's i-spec but that is just personal preference.

    Really, I just can't tolerate the wandering bite point that plagues Shimano brakes.

    As far as the weight is concerned I think @Structure is right on. I went with a Pro Race as the wheelset alone was worth the upcharge. This is the first bike I have owned where the only things I changed were the grips and saddle. The build spec on the Pro Race is hard to beat for the price, if not impossible.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by k67iceberg View Post
    I read that also, but mine is always open, you twist lock or push unlock. Shock is open, it does not firm up at all.
    So, as I previously stated I do believe it isn't a huge difference from 'locked' to 'unlocked'. I believe it's more of a trail mode tune. I'm guessing with the issue with the TwistLoc they may have softened up the compression mode between the two as well from the 2020 and 2021 tunes. I truely only feel small differences from locked to unlocked. Then again this is my first lockout shock, but I also know this was how my hardtail felt in the front suspension from open to trail. Smaller difference, not a strong lockout like climb mode was. I do know I'm 100% in locked or unlocked mode now too.

    Regardless of the argument on how it should feel leave it in the default open if yours is PTL. It really does pedal fine and well in open mode.

    Edit: I also really really like the G2's. I'm coming from 2013 Shimano SLX's though so a lot of newer brakes will probably feel much better.

  25. #425
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    Based on a reference I found in another thread, the new spec tunes are:

    LCM: Linear Compression Medium

    LRL: Linear Rebound Light

    CMF: Firm lockout

    The only difference being the prior tune had LRM...hmmmm

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Structure View Post
    The best way to drop a pound or two was to go Pro Race instead of Pro. Honestly. It's going to be expensive otherwise.
    Can confirm. Was expensive.

    Even though I'm super happy with how my bike turned out, if I had the money available initially I would've gone with the Pro Race.

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by clni_dk View Post
    Hi YT/IZZO experts
    I have been riding XC bikes for the last 8 years (mainly Scalpels) but now i am looking for a bike with a bit more travel.
    I really like the IZZO, how would you compare it to the 2021 Scalpel SE, and the 2021 Specialized Epic Evo?
    The geometry are pretty much comparable, but will they feel much different?

    Thanks in advance
    Yeah man. Here in Southeast PA you're hard pressed to use 130mm. Really interested to hear more comparisons to XC bikes or something in between like the 2021 top fuel or 2021 epic Evo. I think at the end of the day though, if you want an xc bike this just won't be it. Which stinks, because the pro race is specces to the nines.

  28. #428
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    If you canít find somewhere to use travel in SE PA, you need to explore more lol! Thereís tons of good chunk in PA. 130 is about the sweet spot for most of what I ride. Iím still on the fence about dropping a 140 air shaft in the fork, for some of the chunkier descents I like to ride

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelerector View Post
    If you canít find somewhere to use travel in SE PA, you need to explore more lol! Thereís tons of good chunk in PA. 130 is about the sweet spot for most of what I ride. Iím still on the fence about dropping a 140 air shaft in the fork, for some of the chunkier descents I like to ride


    I do all my riding with a long time xc racer on his s works epic. I do agree I rarely need more than 100 and it sprints so well and much less of a slog than the 2019 fuel ex 9.9 I rode which is 130/130 and besides the rock gardens and rough downhills at french Creek, bear creek, and some at the Wiss, prob 85% is totally rideable with 100mm. But I keep hearing 130 is better for an only bike. I canceled my Izzo Pro race preorder but I'm so tempted to place it again. Either that or the lux cf 8.0 because I want my own bike badly so I don't have to keep riding his. The 2019 fuel ex 9.9 just seems so damn similar as the Izzo and seems overbiked for most of my most local trails at least (marsh Creek, harmony hill). The question moreso is if it's "good enough" and I don't really want an xc race bike even though I do love the one I'm using now which has a super dated geo but is oh so fast. Will I learn to get used to the 130 and it won't bother me as much as it does now. Idk. So torn.

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by rherold9 View Post
    So, as I previously stated I do believe it isn't a huge difference from 'locked' to 'unlocked'. I believe it's more of a trail mode tune. I'm guessing with the issue with the TwistLoc they may have softened up the compression mode between the two as well from the 2020 and 2021 tunes. I truely only feel small differences from locked to unlocked. Then again this is my first lockout shock, but I also know this was how my hardtail felt in the front suspension from open to
    When mine is locked out it is nearly a hardtail.

    Quote Originally Posted by k67iceberg View Post
    Hi All,

    I just picked up my Launch Edition, and the first thing I notice is that the lockout doesn't work. I spent all day today trying to fix it, and it is not related to the cable. The twist locks, and release very smoothly, there is no slack in cable. when it is not twist, the shock should be locked (trail, firm), mine is soft. when I twist the remote, the shock is still soft, therefore, my shock is always open.

    so I removed the cable from the shock, and the shock should be locked (trail, firm), but still soft. then I remove the pre-tension from the blue dial on the shock, the shock then firm. however, without pre-tension, the twist remote doesn't work correctly now, when I twist, it is lose and doesn't have enough tension to open the shock.

    anyone of you have this problem? I think I have a defected shock.
    As Undescended said, check your shock tune code to know what youíre working with. Here is the thread I found to be helpful; https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...s-1075842.html

    and here is the Fox link: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike

    Enter your tune code where it says 4-digit code. If PTL comes up in the chain of information then youíre push to lock.

  31. #431
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    Weight

    Hallo, any idea of real weight of Izzo Comp in XXL???

  32. #432
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    I got issue with my twist-loc, when it is twist, it is firm. However, the twist-loc doesn't stay lock, it untwist itself when it hits a little bump, or when my hand touches it. Any of you have this same issue?

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by k67iceberg View Post
    I got issue with my twist-loc, when it is twist, it is firm. However, the twist-loc doesn't stay lock, it untwist itself when it hits a little bump, or when my hand touches it. Any of you have this same issue?
    Yes lots of us. Its crap.
    Replace it with a normal switch. then you can run any grips you want.

    The official YT IZZO thread-30f5b816-aa41-42c2-a7ad-19fed2a896a3.jpg

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by richt2000 View Post
    Yes lots of us. Its crap.
    Replace it with a normal switch. then you can run any grips you want.

    For those people with a working twist lock grip, you can actually separate it somehow and put on regular grips too.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7DrHzKxMqI

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue92lx View Post
    For those people with a working twist lock grip, you can actually separate it somehow and put on regular grips too.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7DrHzKxMqI
    Funny, i thought about doing that and hacksawing 1Ē off the right of the grip and still mounting it between my own grip and the break clamp.

    But there are lots of little ball bearings in the twist part - it wouldnít work.

  36. #436
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    Izzo Comp here. I have changed:

    Groupset - shimano slx 12sp
    Dt swiss carbon wheels
    50mm easton havoc stem
    780mm syncros carbon handlebar

    I love it! Once Iíll try it, Iíll give my impressions.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  37. #437
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    Got the replacement TwistLoc. On the box it said it was 2019.... which made me nervous with all the issues from forums about the 'early' model TwistLoc's. I proceeded anyway and installed the new one. So far so good on my short neighborhood ride. It doesn't unlock itself. We'll see how long it lasts. I doubt I will be using it much though knowing it's PTL now

    Was able to run some more rocky, looser/slippy, and aggressive trails on vacation in Maryland. Didn't know the trails and was riding them blind. These types of trails are not what I'm used to either compared to usually more plush Virginia trails I ride. The bike is so capable and confidence inspiring I was just going for it and it stayed planted. Alas, it could get a little rough, but can't expect plush on a 34 fork and a dps rear on chunky rocks at 10-15mph+. According to Strava, I was still mid pack to top 1/3rd of people on times for most of the climbing and descending... That honestly was not what I was expecting at all. I know Strava isn't the best, but it gives a decent comparison tool

    I noticed on 'techy' longer rock climbs I had to drop the seat or my pedals would hit the rocks no matter what I did. Ratcheting still wasn't super effective. Once I dropped the post and was standing mid way/slightly more forward on the bike I was making it over stuff better than I expected without having to jump off the bike from a pedal strike. The trails were a little moist to at times which helped me learn the bike even further. I think it will be hard to hate this bike if you are looking for one bike that's a fun and all-arounder





    Last edited by rherold9; 1 Day Ago at 07:38 AM.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackson Rich View Post
    I just ordered my Izzo Pro about a week ago as my very first FS bike (and then promptly broke my collarbone, yuck). Anyway, I have a couple questions for you Izzo experts:

    1. How concerned should I be about the SRAM G2 brakes? I had a set of Elixirs on my hard tail and they were AWFUL. Iíve been running XTs and XTRs on that hardtail and a SS ever since and I love them. Iíve heard bad things about the Guides, havenít heard much about the G2s yet. Anyway, should I order a set of XTs now and sell the G2s while theyíre still new when the bike gets here? Or give the G2s a chance?

    2. I race once in a while. Have done a couple 100s and other marathons... I mostly got this bike for fun trips and to be a little more comfortable on longer rides vs the hardtail. That being said, I wouldnít mind doing a couple marathons or stage races next summer (COVID permitting). If I wanted to drop a pound or 2 off this bike, what would be the best upgrades to make?

    Happy trails!
    Considering you won't sell the Pro to buy a Pro Race, IMHO these would be the best upgrades to make it lighter:

    1) A lighter set of wheels from speedgearbike.com, specifically Stans Arch rims with Bitex hubs, Sapim CX Ray Spokes and alloy nipples. $538 total and 1590 grams (centerlock). Best value/price/weight I've found.

    2) Install Crankbros eggbeater pedals

    3) Personally, I'd go with 31.8 stem and handlebar

    4) WTB Volt Ti or Carbon saddle

    5) Controversial, I know, but I'd get rid of the dropper and install a fixed seatpost, specifically a Thomson Masterpiece.
    "I will not relent"

  39. #439
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    Thanks for the suggestions. I upgraded to the Pro Race 😏

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by blatido View Post
    5) Controversial, I know, but I'd get rid of the dropper and install a fixed seatpost, specifically a Thomson Masterpiece.
    .... what in the world? I mean that's pretty much not even controversial at this point anymore. Just, why would you remove the dropper post? Even professional XC racers use dropper posts now, the weight savings does not justify the loss of versatility in a dropper post on the bike. Unless 100% of your terrain is completely flat, taking the dropper off can even be a hazard to your health. I live in Central Florida, one of the flattest places in the U.S., and even our trails have steep drops that I would never attempt with a fixed seat post.
    Last edited by blue92lx; 1 Day Ago at 08:45 PM.

  41. #441
    mtbr member
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    Apr 2007
    Posts
    5
    Just got off the phone with YT. For those that have issues with the grip twistloc lockout, they will replace it for free or send the fox lever lockout instead.
    They were very helpful and are aware of all the issues with the current batch of Sram grip lockouts. The technician I spoke with said the replacement grip lockouts they've been sending have been functioning as designed, without issues.
    Hope that helps someone

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