Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk. - Page 6- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1001
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    Im tempted, these guys in the UK stock them.

    https://www.bikeandspanner.co.uk/m3b...haft-2-5mm-TLG

    Has anyone running 65mm stroke actually made tire and seatpost contact?

  2. #1002
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    Iím running 65 with an offset bushing to give it a little more clearance. I think contact without the offset would be close and subject to what tire youíre running. Add some mud in the mix and itís a little too tight for my taste.

  3. #1003
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    Quote Originally Posted by B Rabbit View Post
    Im tempted, these guys in the UK stock them.

    https://www.bikeandspanner.co.uk/m3b...haft-2-5mm-TLG

    Has anyone running 65mm stroke actually made tire and seatpost contact?
    I modified my 65 to get 63mm of stroke. In my tests with the 65, with Assegai 2.5WT, they hit the ST at full compression
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  4. #1004
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    Cool, so sounds like increasing stroke by 2.5mm to 62.5 overall will work.
    I will be able to confirm when my new 2021 Fox Float X2 arrives at 230x57.5 , my local Suspension Co. is going to machine down the spacers to go from 57.5 to 62.5.

    The shock should be arriving early to mid May....Iíll report back.

  5. #1005
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    That is exactly what YETI FOX Team rider Richie Rude does too.

    He is 5'10', and rode a 5.5 in size Large

    Now, in the SB150, he sized down to a Medium

    He felt the 'feel' was his decision maker

    With his access to any frame size and components, probably the most honest feedback and opinion you can gather...



    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    Hey Fulltrucker,

    I was kinda feeling the same way with my bike. Quick few questions what size frame are you running and how tall are you?

    I'm 5'10" went with the Medium, was on a Large Sb6. On paper they were literally the same geo.
    But I felt the same twitchy-ness of the front end but it had teh 50mm already. Secondly I feel like the bike pushes you forward and I feel way too forward to as how much tucked the offset of the fork is.

  6. #1006
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    I'm 5'10 as well. I debated the large SB150 frame size- so glad I went with the medium, it's perfect. Was it on this thread I saw that post from Jared graves on how too many people are riding too big a frame these days? I think he's spot on.

  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonHMB View Post
    I'm 5'10 as well. I debated the large SB150 frame size- so glad I went with the medium, it's perfect. Was it on this thread I saw that post from Jared graves on how too many people are riding too big a frame these days? I think he's spot on.
    Taking a pro downhiller's opinion on bike size should be be put in to context of how many of them start in disciplines like bmx where you're on a smaller bike. I'd venture most of us are on longer bikes than we were 5 years ago. I certainly can't imagine going back to a large with a 445mm reach like I had in 2014.

  8. #1008
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    Thereís a difference though: Ąlargeď bike in absolute terms or Ąlargeď as per manufacturerís recommendation?
    Up to a certain point, you can get used to a Ąwrongď size anyhow as long as you can still handle the bike somehow.

    By the way, any Ąkey aspectsď to the size apart from nimbleness for the smaller and stability for the larger frame?


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  9. #1009
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    Has anyone here been able to fit a fidlock with a 600 mil bottle on a medium sized bike?

  10. #1010
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    ...whereís the connection to this topic?


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  11. #1011
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    SB150 Build talk. Get it? Or just had a bad morning?

  12. #1012
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    Just ordered a gx build sb150 should be here in 2-3 weeks. Super excited will be sad to say goodbye to the reign though.

  13. #1013
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    Sorry to bring this back but I can't find any of hacks you are referring to... could you please share a link to these hacks if possible? cheers!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    Early when 2019 sb150 was released there were some cable port hacks that you could get from the internet to use....

    Probably need to do a bit of a search here in this forum or fb...

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  14. #1014
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    ok, now I found it.... on Seth's youtube vid, simply use some black tape around the cable to stop it from rubbing the frame....I thought it would be something more sophisticated ....
    Quote Originally Posted by ban View Post
    Sorry to bring this back but I can't find any of hacks you are referring to... could you please share a link to these hacks if possible? cheers!!

  15. #1015
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    Does the sb150 come with the clear protective frame kit or do you have to purchase it separately.

  16. #1016
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    mine did, although it's not very thick so I added some extra layers in some spots on the frame...
    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Does the sb150 come with the clear protective frame kit or do you have to purchase it separately.

  17. #1017
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    Thanks

  18. #1018
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    I see Cascade components have a new link on the way to add 5mm additional travel and extra progression to the SB150.

  19. #1019
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    Does the Oneup 210mm dropper fit all the way in the frame on a size large? Thoughts and experience is welcomed.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    Does the Oneup 210mm dropper fit all the way in the frame on a size large? Thoughts and experience is welcomed.
    Sure does!

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  21. #1021
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    Very interesting, do you have any idea when it will be available? I've just had a look on their site and couldn't find much

  22. #1022
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    Late next month at the earliest looking to cost around 250

  23. #1023
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    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.

    Will the Cascade link change the geo of the bike?
    Last edited by ban; 05-23-2020 at 12:02 AM.

  24. #1024
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Late next month at the earliest looking to cost around 250
    Thanks!

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  25. #1025
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    Increased rear travel by 5mm. Closer leverage progression to sb165 so would make it better suited to run a coil.

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  26. #1026
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    Iím running a 62.5 mm stroke shock to get 157mm travel.
    Clearance is more than fine.

    I will also end up trying the cascade link

  27. #1027
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    Anyone know whether Yeti will spec the 150 with the new Fox 38 or 36? And what the timeline could be for the new Fox gear being sent out with new bikes?

  28. #1028
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    I was looking at grabbing a 150 a month or so ago and reached out to Yeti. More or less said they didnít have any idea because there were major delays and lack of supply for the 21í Fox stuff. Iím holding out until mid-summer to see. Didnít indicate 36 or 38.

  29. #1029
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    I've just ordered a c1 build sb150 it comes with the dt Swiss 1900 wheels can anybody tell me if the discs are 6 bolt or centre lock please

  30. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    I've just ordered a c1 build sb150 it comes with the dt Swiss 1900 wheels can anybody tell me if the discs are 6 bolt or centre lock please
    I believe it's 6 bolt

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  31. #1031
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    I've just ordered a c1 build sb150 it comes with the dt Swiss 1900 wheels can anybody tell me if the discs are 6 bolt or centre lock please
    Mine were 6 bolt

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  32. #1032
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    Thanks

  33. #1033
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradical View Post
    Excited to be back on a SB150, Iíve sized up and love it, go figure?
    Iím 5í8Ē and and right at home on a Large.


    Wondering if anyone has tried a 230x62.5 shock, I feel like the extra 2.5mm of stroke will work and thus increase the rear travel from 150mm to 157mm.
    Anyone give this a try yet?


    Thanks for any input and everyone stay healthy.
    Wow! Talk to me! I'm 5'9 (5'10 with shoes) and ordered a 2019 Large SB150 a few weeks ago. Expecting delivery in a week. Pondered the sizing charts and geo, but I've ridden all frames Large and felt great. What year is your rig?

  34. #1034
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sadistic View Post
    Wow! Talk to me! I'm 5'9 (5'10 with shoes) and ordered a 2019 Large SB150 a few weeks ago. Expecting delivery in a week. Pondered the sizing charts and geo, but I've ridden all frames Large and felt great. What year is your rig?
    Iím on a 2020, all SB150 are the same expect for paint and build kits.
    I got used to my Specialized Enduro 2020 S3 that has a 1248 wheel base but less reach.
    However I got to thinking that the large SB150 is worth a try being that the seat tube on the Yeti is so steep and fights off sag thanks to the switch infinity.
    Iím glad I did...I sold my Enduro and am in love with the bigger SB150.
    Iím a wanna-be semi serious enduro racer and this bigger bike has made me a better rider overall.

  35. #1035
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradical View Post
    Iím on a 2020, all SB150 are the same expect for paint and build kits.
    I got used to my Specialized Enduro 2020 S3 that has a 1248 wheel base but less reach.
    However I got to thinking that the large SB150 is worth a try being that the seat tube on the Yeti is so steep and fights off sag thanks to the switch infinity.
    Iím glad I did...I sold my Enduro and am in love with the bigger SB150.
    Iím a wanna-be semi serious enduro racer and this bigger bike has made me a better rider overall.
    I have exactly the same as you. Currently I've been home in Colombia for the past 7 weeks avoiding all the stupidity back in the USA and I have a 2020 Enduro S3 for my riding in Manizales but back in the States I have a Large SB150 for the past 18 months and The SB150 just does everything slightly better for me although the Enduro really does excel in Chunky terrain with it's active kinematics but damn the bike feels like a heavy pig compared to my SB150 which really gets up to speed quickly out of the saddle or just laying down the watts.
    Yeti 2020 SB165
    Yeti 2019 SB150
    Yeti 2019 SB130 AXS
    Yeti 2018 SB100 AXS

  36. #1036
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    I miss you...lol

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  37. #1037
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    I miss you...lol

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    Likewise Dagonger....I'll be back stateside June 4
    Yeti 2020 SB165
    Yeti 2019 SB150
    Yeti 2019 SB130 AXS
    Yeti 2018 SB100 AXS

  38. #1038
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    Cascade Components have their SB150 link available for pre-order. Im sorta tempted, works out to about $450aud in Australia delivered, not a small sum, but not too bad. I wonder if it will provide too much ramp up with a progressive coil?
    But I am tempted to get better small bump and some extra travel, not sure how the 63mm stroke im running will go with this link tho, might make contact.

    155 mm of travel
    Increased to 26% progressive compared to 15% with stock link
    Slackens bike 0.5 degrees and lowers BB 7 mm
    Sealed Enduro MAX bearings
    CNCíd out of 6061-T6 aluminum in the USA
    Colors: Black, silver, orange

  39. #1039
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    On the fence about this too. Iím not overly excited about the drop in BB as the bike has always felt low to me. The additional spring rate required is pretty high too, I run a 550 now and would need a 600/650 which isnít available in SLS.

  40. #1040
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    Wouldn't the increase in progression mean you could keep, or possibly drop down your current spring rate?

  41. #1041
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    Quote Originally Posted by B Rabbit View Post
    Cascade Components have their SB150 link available for pre-order. Im sorta tempted, works out to about $450aud in Australia delivered, not a small sum, but not too bad. I wonder if it will provide too much ramp up with a progressive coil?
    But I am tempted to get better small bump and some extra travel, not sure how the 63mm stroke im running will go with this link tho, might make contact.

    155 mm of travel
    Increased to 26% progressive compared to 15% with stock link
    Slackens bike 0.5 degrees and lowers BB 7 mm
    Sealed Enduro MAX bearings
    CNCíd out of 6061-T6 aluminum in the USA
    Colors: Black, silver, orange
    I specifically asked them which coil would work better.. progressive vs linear and they said linear

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  42. #1042
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    Anybody running a to chain guide on their sb150 if so which one fits best?

  43. #1043
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Anybody running a to chain guide on their sb150 if so which one fits best?
    Any iscg 5 spec one will work.
    I use oneup's

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  44. #1044
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Anybody running a to chain guide on their sb150 if so which one fits best?
    They'll all fit but some might have nicer features than others. I had an MRP but now have a OneUP which I find easier to install, space out the guide and to remove the crank occasionally to switch chainrings. I'd definitely go OneUP again.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  45. #1045
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    Quote Originally Posted by B Rabbit View Post
    Wouldn't the increase in progression mean you could keep, or possibly drop down your current spring rate?
    because they have increased the initial leverage ratio. If you keep the same spring, your bike would sag more. It looks like the biggest progression rate change is in the last ~15mm of travel and the rate of the first 140mm looks roughly the same as stock, but with higher leverage.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  46. #1046
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    ^ Cheers, makes sense

    So, forgive me if I get this wrong. Im currently running a Canecreek 400-488 progressive spring and weigh about 78kg, the small bump is great and it ramps up nicely at the end. With this link I'll get better small bump, but have to go up to a 500ish linear spring to get the correct sag, but then that increased spring weight will decrease small bump so I'll probably just be at the same place if I just ran my progressive spring? Minus the lower BB and .5 slacker head angle of course. Seems like 1 step forward, 1 step back.
    Im still sorted tempted to give it a go to see if it helps other ride characteristics.

  47. #1047
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    Quote Originally Posted by B Rabbit View Post
    ^ Cheers, makes sense

    So, forgive me if I get this wrong. Im currently running a Canecreek 400-488 progressive spring and weigh about 78kg, the small bump is great and it ramps up nicely at the end. With this link I'll get better small bump, but have to go up to a 500ish linear spring to get the correct sag, but then that increased spring weight will decrease small bump so I'll probably just be at the same place if I just ran my progressive spring? Minus the lower BB and .5 slacker head angle of course. Seems like 1 step forward, 1 step back.
    Im still sorted tempted to give it a go to see if it helps other ride characteristics.
    I wrote a rather wordy response to this yesterday but it didn't want to post. If your current setup is working for you, it doesn't seem to me that swapping to a stronger spring and getting the new link would turn out to be a huge advantage. The change in the leverage ratio with the new link seems to suggest that a 500lb spring would be a little harsher in the initial stroke than what you already have. Personally, I see the BB drop as being the big negative for the new link, but I know it wouldn't be the case for everyone...I did some riding down in Santa Cruz last year and rock strikes were a non-issue. The trails I like up here are a lot rockier and to get some sneaky pedal strokes in, I need a little more clearance.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  48. #1048
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    I wrote a rather wordy response to this yesterday but it didn't want to post. If your current setup is working for you, it doesn't seem to me that swapping to a stronger spring and getting the new link would turn out to be a huge advantage. The change in the leverage ratio with the new link seems to suggest that a 500lb spring would be a little harsher in the initial stroke than what you already have. Personally, I see the BB drop as being the big negative for the new link, but I know it wouldn't be the case for everyone...I did some riding down in Santa Cruz last year and rock strikes were a non-issue. The trails I like up here are a lot rockier and to get some sneaky pedal strokes in, I need a little more clearance.
    the link benefits the use of a coil shock vs X2 and with a linear spring vs a progressive spring..is how I interpret it.

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  49. #1049
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    We gave a prototype link to a local Yeti dealer and here is what they had to say of it. Make what you want of it, but point is the link is not only for coil springs.

    "Just had a solid ride on the 150 link. It's amazing. I rode it with same pressure and volume spacers as I usually do which is 4 spacers and 212psi and usually have a pretty easy time bottoming it out. And the new link gave me 3-5 millimetres on the stroke short of bottoming which is perfect. Much better small sharp bump sensitivity, and then gave me so much more support in the 60-80% travel range. Really really stoked on it. "

  50. #1050
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    Stoked on the new ride.

    Push, XTR, Reserve / I9 Wheels, Ewings Cranks. Coming from a 130LR that was a little too long for my liking excited for the Large frame and extra squish for the spicey bits.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_0772.jpg  


  51. #1051
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    Nice ride! The color looks so fresh
    So you went from a XL LR 130 to a 150 L?


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  52. #1052
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radical_53 View Post
    Nice ride! The color looks so fresh
    So you went from a XL LR 130 to a 150 L?


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    Yup. 130 XL felt like a limo. Rode it for a year or so and on the wide-open straight bits it felt so good but much of what I ride is tight singletrack and it always felt a bit too long in tight spots. I am 6'1 so probably should have been on a L to begin with but tested both and decided on the XL. I think what it was was when I tested out the 130 I wasn't accustomed to the steeper seat tube and felt cramped while climbing so immediately assumed I needed an XL, oh well, I loved the 130LR all the same!

    I think my new 150 is actually lighter than the 130 even with the Push. Probably a combo of carbon rims, titanium cranks, smaller frame, XTR, etc. Took it out last weekend for its maiden voyage on my local steep tech and man it felt good! Excited to put many more miles on this bike over the next few years.

  53. #1053
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    Lots of great info on this thread, I read a bunch of it while I was shopping bikes! I did not end up going with the SB150, mostly due to price and sales at the time, but wanted to put this link here for anyone else interested in in-depth suspension analysis on the Switch Infinity and how it stacks up to other popular bikes. Hope you enjoy!

    https://mtbsr.com/yeti-sb150/

  54. #1054
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    Hello fellas, wondering if anyone here running an extra short stem in the 150. Specifically the Pacenti PDent which system uses a 20mm stem.
    Last edited by gatag; 06-17-2020 at 07:03 PM. Reason: Typo

  55. #1055
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    hello here,

    Just to inform you that the Scott Ransom chainstay protector fit perfectly without any mod on the SB150. just stick it and go.
    I try to figure out to post a photo on the thread ASAP.

  56. #1056
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    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img-yeti.jpg

  57. #1057
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    need a color matching on the 38! Anyway, after 3 rides, this fork seems promising (needs to be tweak a bit with volume spacers)

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_redimyeti.jpg

  58. #1058
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    Looks good and thanks for posting. What are the advantages of using this, does it offer more protection, quieter???

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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Looks good and thanks for posting. What are the advantages of using this, does it offer more protection, quieter???
    Protection : I don't know!!
    Qieter : for sure yes! The yeti has a flat hard rubber coumpound chainstay! The Scott one (or Santa cruz HT, Nukeproof reaktor) will prevent chain slapping with material and design (dents).
    You can also DIY with scotch 2228, but most of the time, the result is ugly!

  60. #1060
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    Cheers, will give it a go when I get a chance

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    Just bought a new sb150 after 2 years on a 2017 giant reign 1. Having trouble finding front end traction. I have changed the stem to a 40mm length and fitted a 12mm riser bar from the start. Was thinking of trying a higher rise bar and or a longer stem. Any suggestions welcome from your experiences. Thanks

  62. #1062
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Just bought a new sb150 after 2 years on a 2017 giant reign 1. Having trouble finding front end traction. I have changed the stem to a 40mm length and fitted a 12mm riser bar from the start. Was thinking of trying a higher rise bar and or a longer stem. Any suggestions welcome from your experiences. Thanks
    I had the same issue with my medium size 130, I couldnít go any longer than a 40mm without feeling too stretched out and found the bike hard to control at times. When I bought my 150 I went with the small and run a 50mm stem and itís perfect, Iím between sizes though. Iíd give a 50mm stem a go if you can fit with it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
    I had the same issue with my medium size 130, I couldnít go any longer than a 40mm without feeling too stretched out and found the bike hard to control at times. When I bought my 150 I went with the small and run a 50mm stem and itís perfect, Iím between sizes though. Iíd give a 50mm stem a go if you can fit with it.
    I'm 6ft without shoes and got the large think the medium would have been too small. Will see if I can borrow a 50mm stem and give it a try.

  64. #1064
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Just bought a new sb150 after 2 years on a 2017 giant reign 1. Having trouble finding front end traction. I have changed the stem to a 40mm length and fitted a 12mm riser bar from the start. Was thinking of trying a higher rise bar and or a longer stem. Any suggestions welcome from your experiences. Thanks
    Try lowering your bar....Slam the bar and put all your spacers above. Also going 10-20mm longer on your stem will naturally pull your Torso over the front end especially when in the attack position.

    These bikes will hand you your ass if your used to keeping your rear end behind the saddle and BB. Once you actually make the adjustments needed you'll never go back to riding rear biased again.

    Watch Kyle Warner Youtube video's on body positioning on the bike. That guy is the very best at conveying what you should be doing to become a better rider.
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  65. #1065
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Try lowering your bar....Slam the bar and put all your spacers above. Also going 10-20mm longer on your stem will naturally pull your Torso over the front end especially when in the attack position.

    These bikes will hand you your ass if your used to keeping your rear end behind the saddle and BB. Once you actually make the adjustments needed you'll never go back to riding rear biased again.

    Watch Kyle Warner Youtube video's on body positioning on the bike. That guy is the very best at conveying what you should be doing to become a better rider.
    That's a good video..I watched it and applied things these last 2weeks of riding.

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    I have a 2019 SB150 GX build in medium. I really like it a lot, but it is a bit of a pig at times.

    So far I have installed a Luftkappe kit and a Grip 2 cartridge in the fork. I switched to a Raceface 75mm stem and Yeti 760mm carbon bar. I changed to a 28t Absolute Black front chainring as the stock one was killing my old knees.

    I live in San Diego and ride mostly Penasquitos Canyon and Lake Hodges. I had plans of some trips but Covid stopped it for now. I would like to make the bike a little more XC friendly.

    I'm considering some lighter wheels. The DT Swiss M1900 wheels on the bike are over 2,000 grams. I've looked at a lot of different prebuilt wheels and custom building a set. 1,500 grams would be nice.

    Less inertia and un-sprung weight is a good thing. Spending $1,500.00 to $2,500.00 is a big expense for bicycle wheels.

    My questions:

    1, How light can you reasonably get a big wheelset like this?
    2, Would there be a noteworthy pedaling difference in a lighter wheelset?
    3, Is the cost VS performance worth the money?

  67. #1067
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    My experience...lighter tires will reduce your wheel weight the most. Carbon wheels with 30mm width won't be noticeably lighter than Aluminum of the same width. So you might look at an alum XC wheelset with lighter duty tires for more climbing oriented days. DT Swiss M1900 2019g Santa Cruz Reserve Carbon 30's are 1,943g so 4% lighter, 76g. Minion DHR II 60 TPI 29x2.4 is 955g, Aggressor 2.3 60 TPI is 900g (as an example) that is 55g savings on the rear tire. Aggressor has better rolling resistance than DHRII also. You are in SD and it is now "chalk" season (dust). You could go Minion SS Silkworm on the rear and that is 810g.

    I also found that if I drank 30% less beer, that savings pays for tires in about 3 weeks! And I lose 5 lbs. and am slightly more fit so I climb better.
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    Body weight is totally different and feels different.

    All rotational/unsprung mass reduction is good usually.
    Tires too light can feel weird, as the dampening is lower usually, but a tubeless setup and light carbon rims do really help.
    Last time I got new wheels my rims got ~80g lighter per piece and that was very noticeable, especially as the carbon wheels are so much more direct.


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    For a 150/170 bike I'd not be looking at "light carbon" but probably carbon that was more or less the same weight as an alloy wheel, like the m730 by enve. I ride alloy and have DT rims for trail and another set of DT rims for park or anything that justifies using them... And corresponding tire casings.

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    Has anyone tried the cascade linkage? I want to hear your experience.

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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    For a 150/170 bike I'd not be looking at "light carbon" but probably carbon that was more or less the same weight as an alloy wheel
    If you want to extend the bandwidth of the bike, a second set of wheels is probably the easiest solution.
    For lighter use Iíd get a lighter (carbon) set to make the difference count, same width as the standard wheels perhaps. Save some weight there, probably give it some rubber with less rolling resistance and the money will be well spent.


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    Cascade link early feelings here:

    Those guys just took the one small complaint about the 150 and smashed it!

    Small bump and square edge hang up at speed has been a thing, but I have been able to tune it out with a faster HSR setting. Have had my bike feeling pretty great the last dozen rides or so without the link (float X2 btw).

    Installed Cascade link and rode a few trails that have a decent mix of high speed rough rock gardens and roots, and some little air-in chutes for good measure.

    The bike now skips across the tips of rough ground instead of getting bogged down in them and carries more speed through fast rough terrain. Insane actually. It doesnít plow, it floats. Not like a gooey squish bike but like a greased up slick rocket. Iím in love with it. Made this bike hands down the best enduro rig Iíve ridden.

    The added OTT suppleness is there, but not quite like jumping over to a coil.

    I find bottom less, but it has not been harsh and is much more pillow-like, and is exactly what I want when I get into a big one hit. Havenít felt it pack up to bottom yet and the added support in the mid stroke is noticeable. Airing into a steep root or rock chute finds the bike feeling planted and ready for action. Sticks and carries on. This is pretty rad and not to be understated. It just floats in the golden zone and gives you the support you want to keep charging through

    Unreal job by the Cascade Components team. Unlocked a new level on this bike.
    Last edited by Getup2getdown; 07-03-2020 at 05:58 AM. Reason: Typo

  73. #1073
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    Quote Originally Posted by Getup2getdown View Post
    Cascade link early feelings here:
    Those guys just took the one small complaint about the 150 and smashed it!
    Unreal job by the Cascade Components team. Unlocked a new level on this bike.
    Have you noticed the lower BB and slacker head angle having an effect on handling?
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  74. #1074
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    New owner of a sb150 C1. It was a budget stretch but so happy I bought it. I'm 5'11 1/2, 32" inseam and went with a large. The fit is perfect.

    I ride some really rocky terrain and decided to make a protector for the seat stay/behind the infinity link. This is made with Kydex. Its a mouldable plastic that you heat in the oven. Took a long time to get right as I didn't want to place the hot Kydex right on the Carbon frame. Just lots of trial & error. But only had to use one piece. Used a heat gun for small tweaks. Should really help with small rock hits on the paint. I've got 3M film on other parts of the bike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-20200702_185934.jpg  

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-20200702_192414.jpg  

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    Bike handles great, still. Slightly slacker sta, hta, and lower bb are intuitive and do not change the overall intent of the bike. A shreddy bike staying shreddy. Ride her hard and she will thank you

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    51mm offset VS. 44mm offset.

    Is anybody running a 51mm offset on their 150 instead of the 44mm offset? What am I losing or aging if I stick with my Fox 36 170 with the 51mm offset? I would prefer to not buy a fork quite yet.

  77. #1077
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    Quote Originally Posted by madbomber99 View Post
    Is anybody running a 51mm offset on their 150 instead of the 44mm offset? What am I losing or aging if I stick with my Fox 36 170 with the 51mm offset? I would prefer to not buy a fork quite yet.
    it'll be fine. I've been running one for the past year. More stable at speed, not quite as nimble in slower tech.
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    it'll be fine. I've been running one for the past year. More stable at speed, not quite as nimble in slower tech.
    Am I misunderstanding, or are you saying that 51 is more stable at speed and less nimble in slow tech? That's seems to be opposite of the conventional wisdom

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    I am hoping you are correct. I struggle more in slow tech areas then I do at being stable at speed.

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    Either fork is fine. Run what u brung.

    If you struggle with slower tech moves, try being more active on the bike and looking for opportunities to ďopenĒ the trail and unweight your wheels. Practice flat ground skills like stoppies and manuals so you can move the big bike around more. Long bikes like the 150 need a different approach to slow tech, but they work great once you incorporate that into your riding habits as there is a TON of bike in front of you to push on.

    If you just want a piece of kit as a bandaid, look at something less slack or dropping the fork to 160mm...might help a little with reeling in the front end.

  81. #1081
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT87 View Post
    Am I misunderstanding, or are you saying that 51 is more stable at speed and less nimble in slow tech? That's seems to be opposite of the conventional wisdom

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    That's what I felt but I'm open to being wrong and trying it out again. I've got the 44mm crown hanging in my shop.
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  82. #1082
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    Took my 150 to Angelfire last weekend and it crushed everything. I have always taken a dh bike there and felt that I would have actually been slower and more tired on that bike. I have a 35mm rise bar and some good stack under it but ordered a 180mm spring to test strictly for the bike park. The x2 handled everything with ease there. Very impressed! I also have a dhx2 with cane creek progressive spring that I didn't even try out since the X2 performed so well but I intend to soon. Anyone running 180mm up front or the fox 38 180mm and have some feedback on it? Thanks!
    Bender to AZDog: I'm not the best person to give advice on not riding!

  83. #1083
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    For those of us considering getting this frame now, the option for the 170 mm is a Fox 38 with added stiffness and weight, I wonder how this will affect the dynamics of the bike

  84. #1084
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    Perfect fork for the 150

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    Iíll elaborate to be more helpful...

    The 38 has a notch up in stiffness, no doubt. This is nice when tossing your chips in and working to the other side of the rough as it tracks great.

    Most noticeable is the higher ride height resulting from the new air spring, which preserves geo without feeling harsh off the top. The 38 is a great fork for the sb150, which begs to be ridden aggressively. The fork brings to the front end the confidence that already exists in the rear.

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    Thanks, I wonder if they'll be releasing update to the frame soon

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    Finally found the sweets spot in the cockpit department after testing varying setups. Now running 30mm riser bars with a 40mm stem and no spacers. Steering now feels perfect and has transformed the bike. No more feeling like the front end is going to wash out.

  88. #1088
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    I'm sure I read something in this topic over the past few days about drive side chain stay clearance and how some people are dishing their wheels to the non drive side to rectify it. I thought I'd share something I just learned about my own bike.

    My back end is crooked.

    I was on a ride yesterday and had a new squeak. It turned out to be the main pivot bolt, but while I was looking down trying to recreate it on the trail, I notice that my tire had worn into the stay more than it has in the past. I'm sure that the loose pivot had everything to do with the extra wear, but while I had the bike in the stand to deal with the axle and doing a little IS maintenance, I made a gauge to check the wheel alignment. The front of the rim is 6mm to the drive side. The dish on the rim is within 0.25mm BTW. So I extended the feeler out to the dropout and learned that the dropouts are 11mm different (so 5.5mm off center.) Now I don't know what Yetis specs are when it comes to rear end alignment tolerance, it may be 1/4" and my bike would be within that, but there's no doubt that my back end is crooked. It's not just off center, it's off axis.

    It's also fair to say that I'm not bothered by the alignment issue on its own. My own bikes are 0.020" or less but I understand the nature of manufacturing and don't expect to see that kind of tolerance out of a mass manufacturer. The other interesting thing to note is that the off-axis swingarm actually has nothing to do with the tire clearance and in my case, if I dish my wheel 3mm to the non-drive side, it fixes the problem I'm having (abrasion on the stay) when having a swingarm aligned perfectly would not.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  89. #1089
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    Anybody fitted a 200mm rotor to the rear of their sb150 if so what mount did you use???

  90. #1090
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Anybody fitted a 200mm rotor to the rear of their sb150 if so what mount did you use???
    I put on a 203 with a Shimano mount. I think it would be a 20mm pm adapter for Sram. Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-20200712_185516.jpg

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  91. #1091
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    Put my gx build on the scales this morning knew it was a bit heavy but wasn't expecting the best part of 37lb.

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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Put my gx build on the scales this morning knew it was a bit heavy but wasn't expecting the best part of 37lb.
    I'm at 38.6 on my gx build but I have push coil front and rear, Enduro casing tires with cushcore, one up pump and kit and porky wheels.

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    Rain164845 what's the coil conversion like on the front been looking into this the last week or so also looking at the smash pot.

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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    it'll be fine. I've been running one for the past year. More stable at speed, not quite as nimble in slower tech.
    I have run 51, 42, and 46 offsets (my current set up, bought a CSU separately and installed on Lyrik). I'd say in slower tech the 51 feels less like it will fold over and surprise you. I used to think the 51 felt more stable at speed but the more time I've spent on short offset it doesn't seem that way. I'd say the short offset feels good at high speed because it slows the steering a bit. But the 51 can make the bike feel a little more grounded at high speeds. I went with a 46 because it feels very neutral and doesn't penalize turning the bars like my 42 offset does (it wants to lean, not turn). With any of the offsets I think you get used to it and make small riding adjustments. Overall, I'd say the 51 is the most forgiving in most situations.

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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Put my gx build on the scales this morning knew it was a bit heavy but wasn't expecting the best part of 37lb.
    Did you remove the box?

    I've never weighed mine, because I don't want it to take away any of my deep love for this bike! One year in and still in love!

  96. #1096
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    Rain164845 what's the coil conversion like on the front been looking into this the last week or so also looking at the smash pot.
    The conversion is really incredible but I found that I needed more damping once so much friction was removed from the action. I ended up having to get the push damper to make it work. But now it is on another level.

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  97. #1097
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    37?

    I run GX on mine and it isn't quite 33 pounds. 37 lbs is crazy.

  98. #1098
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    Quote Originally Posted by madbomber99 View Post
    I run GX on mine and it isn't quite 33 pounds. 37 lbs is crazy.
    Yeah, you gotta keep adding stuff till you get there!

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    The weight of it is quite disappointing

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    37 lb?

    I don't even know what I could add to make it 37 lbs. Maybe downgrade to NX? Buy a heavier wheelset? Iron water bottle holders? heaviest rear shock I could find? Or all of the above?

  101. #1101
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    Here's my build, bought a gx complete so the slightly heavier frame, hunt trail wide wheels, wild enduro front tire, rim pact tyre insert in rear, gamut cilios 40mm stem, Pro tharsis bars, xt shifter, xt mech, bergtec penthouse mk4 pedals, 4x volume spacers in the rear 2 in the front and tubeless sealant. I weighed the bike on two different sets of scales and both approximately the same. My old aluminium reign with a coil shock was lighter. Not taking anything away from the bike it rides awesome no where near the claimed weight on the yeti website though.

  102. #1102
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    How did you fix your headset gap

    Quote Originally Posted by Druster View Post
    Yup, all good now. Stem is on a negative on purpose due to too high of a stack height to my liking.

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
    Hi, I've been scouring all over the place trying to find someone with the same issue as I've had - and yours looks pretty much the same. I'm running a steel frame, but looks like the same Chris King headset with the same gap.

    How did you get rid of it?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_20200727_125954.jpg  


  103. #1103
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsumishi View Post
    Hi, I've been scouring all over the place trying to find someone with the same issue as I've had - and yours looks pretty much the same. I'm running a steel frame, but looks like the same Chris King headset with the same gap.

    How did you get rid of it?
    That looks like one of the old CK headsets that all the XC geeks were in love with (because of their nice bearings) but were JUNK for those of us that were into DH/FR; first big drop and it was toast. CK waited until the patent ran out on Cane Creek's upper bearing top cover assembly with integrated split washer that finally fixed it (allows the cap to come all the way down on the bearing). Little known story that a lot of CK fanboys don't even know about. I have never bought another CK product since and never will either... their own pride was worth more than their customer's satisfaction, SMH. Anyone who thinks CK is the gold standard for headsets simply doesn't know THE REST OF THE STORY as Paul Harvey would say...

    Have FUN!

    G MAN

    PS - I'll take it a step further... Cane Creek started as Dia-Compe who invented the threadless headset. They have LITERALLY developed every component of the modern day headset. Chris King has done JACK SHEIT when it comes to engineering other than come up with nice bearings. I'm shocked at how many think they are the gold standard when all they really are is a bunch of pirating copycat yahoos. I like to buy from and defend local companies (Portland, OR) but I simply cannot get on board with CK anything. But hey, they have all those kewl colors, LMAO! CK is marketing at it's finest.
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  104. #1104
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    Where did they get their hub design from?

    The headset sounds like the iPhone. Take other peopleís ideas and combine it to be something better.


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  105. #1105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radical_53 View Post
    Where did they get their hub design from?

    The headset sounds like the iPhone. Take other peopleís ideas and combine it to be something better.


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    That would be DT Swiss' ring drive mechanism... and yeah, I'll give you that one as theirs is probably better than DT's version which cannot get that high of POE. Chris King reminds me a lot of Toyota who copies everything that's successful and tries to make them better.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  106. #1106
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    Thanks. Are you sure about DT Swiss? They have a star ratchet, which (as far as I understand) works differently. DT and I9 are built the same way I thought?


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  107. #1107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radical_53 View Post
    Thanks. Are you sure about DT Swiss? They have a star ratchet, which (as far as I understand) works differently. DT and I9 are built the same way I thought?


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    I'm very sure... King's is a bigger version which engages the outer wall better as an additional point of contact vs DT's outer teeth. I9 is still a pawl system but their latest is essentially a hybrid with what King does in how it interacts under tension with more surface area. I was put off by my old I9's and all the bearing problems and drag but honestly their new hubs are the best engineered I've yet seen. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them quite honestly.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  108. #1108
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    Thanks! I ran King for the best part of the last two decades so I might just stick with then.
    The i9 approach sounds interesting, Iíll have to look into that. DT would probably be my first pick for a hassle-free, lightweight build.


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  109. #1109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    I'm very sure... King's is a bigger version which engages the outer wall better as an additional point of contact vs DT's outer teeth. I9 is still a pawl system but their latest is essentially a hybrid with what King does in how it interacts under tension with more surface area. I was put off by my old I9's and all the bearing problems and drag but honestly their new hubs are the best engineered I've yet seen. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them quite honestly.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    After using King hubs for decades, I switched to some I9 torch hubs on my SB6 solely because I wanted CenterLock rotors and have nothing negative to say other than they require more maintenance than the Kings. When I built up my 150, I went with Hydra hubs and think that they're great but the extra engagement really accentuates pedal kickback on tech climbs.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    I have a 2019 SB150 GX build in medium. I really like it a lot, but it is a bit of a pig at times.

    So far I have installed a Luftkappe kit and a Grip 2 cartridge in the fork. I switched to a Raceface 75mm stem and Yeti 760mm carbon bar. I changed to a 28t Absolute Black front chainring as the stock one was killing my old knees.

    I live in San Diego and ride mostly Penasquitos Canyon and Lake Hodges. I had plans of some trips but Covid stopped it for now. I would like to make the bike a little more XC friendly.

    I'm considering some lighter wheels. The DT Swiss M1900 wheels on the bike are over 2,000 grams. I've looked at a lot of different prebuilt wheels and custom building a set. 1,500 grams would be nice.

    Less inertia and un-sprung weight is a good thing. Spending $1,500.00 to $2,500.00 is a big expense for bicycle wheels.

    My questions:

    1, How light can you reasonably get a big wheelset like this?
    2, Would there be a noteworthy pedaling difference in a lighter wheelset?
    3, Is the cost VS performance worth the money?
    On my sb130LR I switched from the 1700's to the new I9 315c wheels- we are one carbon rims 31 wide, with I9 hydra hubs and their alu spokes, dropped almost a full pound. new wheels are stiffer, lighter, faster and stronger. You could go down to a 28 spoke and less serious rim.

    Other options- DT swiss 180 hubs front and back with lightish but strong 28h carbon rims- that would save another 100+g or more with sapin cxray spokes.

  111. #1111
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    Hi everyone,

    Quick question regarding sizing and manoeuvrability of SB150.
    Starting from the beginning, I'm 6feet (184cm) tall with 34 inches in side leg and just sold my Transition Sentinel Large due to not connecting with the bike. Riding Sentinel I couldn't make tight corners as quick and easy as I would like. My question is how SB150 copes with tight stuff, any riders in the UK. Next question is regarding sizing, should I go for Large or get a Medium SB150. Due to broken collarbone, I can't ride for next month and can't demo anything. The main issue is with sizing, go smaller which should feel better in tight or go L if SB150 feel good in tight anyway. Last though, sacked the SB150 idea and go for SB140 Thanks

  112. #1112
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    I was in a pretty similar situation as yourself regarding sizing just a slightly shorter leg length. I went for a large, I think you could go with either when descending but for climbing the top tube length on the medium was too short. I found it also quite a big bike to get around tight switchbacks but after trying numerous bar rises, stem rises, stem lengths spacers under the stem I am now in a good place and am matching previous times if not bettering them on most tracks.

  113. #1113
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    I was in a pretty similar situation as yourself regarding sizing just a slightly shorter leg length. I went for a large, I think you could go with either when descending but for climbing the top tube length on the medium was too short. I found it also quite a big bike to get around tight switchbacks but after trying numerous bar rises, stem rises, stem lengths spacers under the stem I am now in a good place and am matching previous times if not bettering them on most tracks.
    So with what did you end up, stem, bars and spacers wise?? Thanks

  114. #1114
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    No spacers under the stem 30mm rise bars. Was running a 40mm stem with 0 degree rise and felt good, have done 1 ride with a 50mm stem and 6degree rise didn't feel as direct going to give it one more try but most probably go back to the 40mm.

  115. #1115
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    Putting the SB150 on a diet for a road trip to Copper Harbor. Removed my DHF/Aggressor tires and putting an Ardent Race 2.35 I have sitting around on the rear and a Rekon 2.4WT on the front for a more pedal friendly feel. Power meter installed with 170mm cranks which meant removing my One UP bash guard/chain guide combo. The Quarq was rubbing on the bash guard, womp. I was surprised how much leverage I lost with the 170mm cranks vs the 175mm ones. I raised up my seat a little which helped but it was noticeably harder to sustain higher watts on the SB150 with 170mm cranks vs my XC bike with 175mm cranks. Taking it out on a 40 mile ride tomorrow so I'll see how she does at distance.

  116. #1116
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboyd122 View Post
    Putting the SB150 on a diet for a road trip to Copper Harbor. Removed my DHF/Aggressor tires and putting an Ardent Race 2.35 I have sitting around on the rear and a Rekon 2.4WT on the front for a more pedal friendly feel. Power meter installed with 170mm cranks which meant removing my One UP bash guard/chain guide combo. The Quarq was rubbing on the bash guard, womp. I was surprised how much leverage I lost with the 170mm cranks vs the 175mm ones. I raised up my seat a little which helped but it was noticeably harder to sustain higher watts on the SB150 with 170mm cranks vs my XC bike with 175mm cranks. Taking it out on a 40 mile ride tomorrow so I'll see how she does at distance.

    https://www.trainingpeaks.com/blog/t...-crank-length/

  117. #1117
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    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.

    Awesome article. I think the seat height was playing a huge factor for me. With a half cm shortened extension I wasnít driving as much power through my legs. Also it was my first ride on the shorter cranks so obviously there is some muscle memory to work through. Iím optimistic about the results on my ride tomorrow.

  118. #1118
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    If anyone is interested in long-shocking their Yeti SB150 I have a 2019 (just serviced) Fox Float X2 for sale. Its stroke has been changed from 60 to 62.5 giving you an increased travel of 157mm .

    PM if your interested.
    Thanks

  119. #1119
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    Has anyone tried an EXT Storia on a SB150? How does it compare to other coil suspension?

  120. #1120
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    First ride out this morning with the storia fitted. Amazing shock also had one fitted to my previous reign. Will come back with a report after the weekend. Would post a pic up but got no clue how to do it.

  121. #1121
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    Quote Originally Posted by alsoran View Post
    First ride out this morning with the storia fitted. Amazing shock also had one fitted to my previous reign. Will come back with a report after the weekend. Would post a pic up but got no clue how to do it.
    What Storia do you have? LOK V3 or Arma?

  122. #1122
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    Lok v3
    Last edited by alsoran; 16 Hours Ago at 10:16 AM. Reason: Predictive text

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