Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk. - Page 5- Mtbr.com
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  1. #801
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    How much contact is there? What size tire? It's possible to make it work. The most obvious way to do it would be to use eccentric bushings. You can squeeze out a few mm in length with one eccentric in the front. I haven't looked at the bolt for the rear eye and what diameter it is. If it's the full diameter of the eye, it might not be possible.
    Aggressor 2.5 with substantial contact. I'd think there would still be quite a bit of contact with a 2.3, might get away with 62.5mm but i reckon it would be close.

    My plan is to fit 27.5 in rear with an offset bush in front mount (can only use in front, rear doesn't have a bush) to raise the BB a little and then hopefully be able to extend stroke to 65mm.

  2. #802
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Aggressor 2.5 with substantial contact. I'd think there would still be quite a bit of contact with a 2.3, might get away with 62.5mm but i reckon it would be close.

    My plan is to fit 27.5 in rear with an offset bush in front mount (can only use in front, rear doesn't have a bush) to raise the BB a little and then hopefully be able to extend stroke to 65mm.
    Interesting, thank you. I'm looking forward to getting my wheels built up and checking it out as I can machine extenders in a few hours time if necessary. I really liked the change when I put a longer stroke (and eye to eye) shock on my SB6 which took the total travel to 162mm. A 65mm stroke on the SB150 should do about the same travel increase.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  3. #803
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    Oh and I forgot to mention, you'll probably want to check clearance between the back of the shock linkage and front of the seat tube, not much room there. Without going and measuring I'd think you could run into troubles if you lengthened the the linkage arms by more than a few mm.

    Keep us posted, I would love a 160+mm bike if possible!

  4. #804
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Oh and I forgot to mention, you'll probably want to check clearance between the back of the shock linkage and front of the seat tube, not much room there. Without going and measuring I'd think you could run into troubles if you lengthened the the linkage arms by more than a few mm.

    Keep us posted, I would love a 160+mm bike if possible!
    Yep. That was an issue on the SB6 also...as is keeping an eye on the limits of travel of the SI
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  5. #805
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    Switch Infinity/ X2 - Noise and creaking????

    Hi SB150 riders.
    Took the plunge and bought a 150 after a lot of research and test riding. The bike is amazing, climbs great and is getting faster and faster on the downs (coming from an Ibis HD3 (another amazing all rounder)).
    Besides getting the first bunch of rides in to iron out settings and general familiarity with the bike, I am noticing a bit of noise from the rear suspension when pedaling on flat terrain and climbing. Not quite as bad as an ibis rear end but there seems to be a subtle low creak from either the X2 or linkage etc.
    I have taken the bike back to my LBS a couple of times. They tightened/torqued all the linkage after about 7 or 8 rides, re-greased the cranks and said there is no noise that is out of the ordinary.

    Is this noise just the way the X2 shock/ SI suspension combo works? Is it normal? Appreciate your feedback.

    Rider/bike setup:
    190 lbs geared up, 6 Ft tall on a large frame
    Aggressive all mtn/enduro rider that likes to climb
    Current suspension settings:
    Fork - 75psi, HSC 12 LSC 10, HSR 6 LSR 8
    Shock - 190psi w/ one spacer HSC15 LSC 15, HSR13 LSR 16
    Using 9/10th of the shock without bottoming out and about 8/10th of the fork travel.

    Thanks!

  6. #806
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    Your X2 might be cavitated which could be causing the nosie you mentioned. Had to send my X2 back to FOX for warranty within the first month of getting my SB150 and I've heard the same from others.

  7. #807
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tobyland View Post
    Hi SB150 riders.
    Took the plunge and bought a 150 after a lot of research and test riding. The bike is amazing, climbs great and is getting faster and faster on the downs (coming from an Ibis HD3 (another amazing all rounder)).
    Besides getting the first bunch of rides in to iron out settings and general familiarity with the bike, I am noticing a bit of noise from the rear suspension when pedaling on flat terrain and climbing. Not quite as bad as an ibis rear end but there seems to be a subtle low creak from either the X2 or linkage etc.
    I have taken the bike back to my LBS a couple of times. They tightened/torqued all the linkage after about 7 or 8 rides, re-greased the cranks and said there is no noise that is out of the ordinary.

    Is this noise just the way the X2 shock/ SI suspension combo works? Is it normal? Appreciate your feedback.

    Rider/bike setup:
    190 lbs geared up, 6 Ft tall on a large frame
    Aggressive all mtn/enduro rider that likes to climb
    Current suspension settings:
    Fork - 75psi, HSC 12 LSC 10, HSR 6 LSR 8
    Shock - 190psi w/ one spacer HSC15 LSC 15, HSR13 LSR 16
    Using 9/10th of the shock without bottoming out and about 8/10th of the fork travel.

    Thanks!
    Pull your rear wheel off and clean the place on both sides where the axle meets the frame. Then put a tiny bit of grease on there where the two meet.

    My 5.5 had a really hard to find creak that I chased for a while thinking it was coming from the SI or rear end links or the cranks/BB. Turns out it was axle/frame creaking. When the same noise started on my SB150 I went straight to the axle/frame contact point and that was it.

    Also check the derailleur hanger/frame contact point.

    One other thing- keep an eye on the link bolts. Ive had a few come loose.

    Otherwise the bike has been excellent so far.

  8. #808
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    Thanks Speeder1 and Undercover. Will look into both options.

  9. #809
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    I just set the suspension on my 150 according to the Yeti website. They have me running 32 clicks of high speed compression on the fork, which is wide open. Has this happened to anybody else? 180lbs.

  10. #810
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    Quote Originally Posted by rck18 View Post
    I just set the suspension on my 150 according to the Yeti website. They have me running 32 clicks of high speed compression on the fork, which is wide open. Has this happened to anybody else? 180lbs.
    I ride an orbea rallon with a 160 grip 2 fork and have ridden at times with no High speed compression damping (fully open). There is not necessarily anything wrong with that. With no HSC, the fork will be able to soak up large impacts better. If you are not bottoming out or using too much travel on medium hits, then you should try no HSC for a while and see how you like it. Adding HSC will slow the fork down and make it more stable, but it will also make it stiffer. I ended up adding about 4-5 clicks of HSC damping just to make the fork a little more controlled in the rough stuff, but doing so made it a little harder to use its travel.

  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by rck18 View Post
    I just set the suspension on my 150 according to the Yeti website. They have me running 32 clicks of high speed compression on the fork, which is wide open. Has this happened to anybody else? 180lbs.
    Generally the less Compression you run the better the compliance and especially hand fatigue but like anything else tracks with massive holes and G-Outs make running some amount of compression necessary.


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  12. #812
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    Quote Originally Posted by rck18 View Post
    I just set the suspension on my 150 according to the Yeti website. They have me running 32 clicks of high speed compression on the fork, which is wide open. Has this happened to anybody else? 180lbs.
    The shock settings are probably more useful as a fork is usually tuned similarly to the rider across different bikes. So don't get too caught up on the recommendations. You can also read the Fox manuals and see what settings they recommend for your weight. Just find the sag or pressure that works for you and set your rebound then experiment with the compression settings. I tend to run hs compression open (on my Lyrik) a lot of the time but sometimes add compression damping if I'm at a bike park or the terrain is very fast and chunky and I don't want my fork to dive in to its travel too much with big hits. The 36 (in my experience owning 2 of them) is pretty stiff and progressive so to me the suggestion to leave it open as a starting point makes perfect sense.

  13. #813
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tobyland View Post

    Is this noise just the way the X2 shock/ SI suspension combo works? Is it normal?
    I haven't had any creaking from my sb 5.5, 130, or 150 frames. I did however have some creaking issues with my i9 torch hub which resolved with new bearings and it came about in exactly the circumstances you mention. You said that the noise is only when pedaling which to me means the first round of troubleshooting should focus on the drivetrain (hub, chain, derailleur/hanger, crankset, bb, etc). I doubt it is your BB being a new bike (and if it was you'd really notice it when cranking hard). Also check the dropouts like others have noted. Also as speeder1 points out check the linkage bolts, mine came really loose (but made no noise). If it were your suspension/pivots, you 'should' be able to replicate the noise with the bike stationary.

  14. #814
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    Rear clearance is a weird one on these bikes. I've got a 2.5 Maxxis Aggressor DD with Cushcore on mine and have had zero issues, no rubbing, etc. That include 3 Trestle days, lots of Floyd Hill, etc.

    Big variance.

    The bike is great when it's tuned well. I needed more LSC and a touch more HSC on the rear then Yeti recommends.

  15. #815
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    How about a pic of your new bike? Glad to hear you're rolling!
    Well since you asked...





    Not the best pics, gonna try and get better ones soon...

    Got a great deal on a 2019 SB150, stock X01 build to start with. I'm a few rides deep now, and I have to say the best thing I did for this bike was put a longer stem on it. Came with a 40mm stem, swapped to a 50mm and could not be happier. Went from feeling sorta ho-hum about the bike to holy cats yeehaw with just that change. My theory is that short stem + 800mm wide bars + short offset fork == twitchy hot garbage. To be fair, I probably would have gotten used to it, but the bike really felt like it was too sensitive to small amounts of steering input. I started looking through this thread to see if anyone else had/has similar opinions and then I remembered I don't really care about what other people think, and that how the bike rides to me is all that I'm concerned about. Another funny thing to me is... I don't really know that I notice the "new school aggressive long reach geometry" as much as I thought I would. Now that I've got the handling sorted out, I'll be taking it for proper rips down fast, chundery trails and maybe that'll change. But so far... it feels like a bike. A really, really nice, great riding bike. But you know... a bike.

    Otherwise yeah... climbs as well or better than my 5.5, the rear suspension feels much more refined and awesome, bike is poppier and more playful despite the longer wheelbase, fits me awesome both seated climbing and standing descending, and oh man is it a gORANGEous frame.

    See what I did there?
    The older I get, the faster I was.





    Punch it, Chewie.

  16. #816
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crit Rat View Post
    ...Floyd Hill...
    I should get back up to Floyd Hill and learn those lines... how's it riding in? I haven't been since the opening, and I thought it could stand to get some tires and some moisture on it. Everything was loose as.

    Quote Originally Posted by Crit Rat View Post
    The bike is great when it's tuned well. I needed more LSC and a touch more HSC on the rear then Yeti recommends.
    I added a touch more rebound damping all around than Yeti recommends. Compression is currently at the recommended setting, but feeling like a bit more would suit me well as well. Definitely terrain and rider speed dependent, probably because science or some such nonsense.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





    Punch it, Chewie.

  17. #817
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    Got a great deal on a 2019 SB150, stock X01 build to start with. I'm a few rides deep now, and I have to say the best thing I did for this bike was put a longer stem on it. Came with a 40mm stem, swapped to a 50mm and could not be happier. Went from feeling sorta ho-hum about the bike to holy cats yeehaw with just that change. My theory is that short stem + 800mm wide bars + short offset fork == twitchy hot garbage. To be fair, I probably would have gotten used to it, but the bike really felt like it was too sensitive to small amounts of steering input.

    See what I did there?
    Hey Fulltrucker,

    I was kinda feeling the same way with my bike. Quick few questions what size frame are you running and how tall are you?

    I'm 5'10" went with the Medium, was on a Large Sb6. On paper they were literally the same geo.
    But I felt the same twitchy-ness of the front end but it had teh 50mm already. Secondly I feel like the bike pushes you forward and I feel way too forward to as how much tucked the offset of the fork is.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    Hey Fulltrucker,

    I was kinda feeling the same way with my bike. Quick few questions what size frame are you running and how tall are you?

    I'm 5'10" went with the Medium, was on a Large Sb6. On paper they were literally the same geo.
    But I felt the same twitchy-ness of the front end but it had teh 50mm already. Secondly I feel like the bike pushes you forward and I feel way too forward to as how much tucked the offset of the fork is.
    The bikes ďSB6 - SB150Ē size L vs size M arenít anywhere close because ETT and Front center are completely different. You should have stuck with size Large on the 150 to have a similar feel. You likely saw the reach between the 2 bikes and made that choice


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  19. #819
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    The bikes ďSB6 - SB150Ē size L vs size M arenít anywhere close because ETT and Front center are completely different. You should have stuck with size Large on the 150 to have a similar feel. You likely saw the reach between the 2 bikes and made that choice


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yeah that's exactly what I went off by. With the new geo I thought going with the reach would be more of a reasonable way to go.
    I am feeling that I should've stuck with the old school mentality of going off the ETT for sizing.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  20. #820
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    My theory is that short stem + 800mm wide bars + short offset fork == twitchy hot garbage. To be fair, I probably would have gotten used to it, but the bike really felt like it was too sensitive to small amounts of steering input. ?
    Nice looking ride. I think you're feeling the slack head angle and different offset fork, not the stem. I ride my sb150 with a 50 stem and I'm 5'11 (my sb130 with a 40 stem). When I first built my 150 I used a 41 offset MRP fork and it was super twitchy and the wheel would flop hard in a sharp corner and over-react to small bumps on fast downhills....basically too sensitive (counter to the argument that short offsets 'slow' down your steering'). Then went to 46 and the bike felt more normal, just slack. Right now I've got it at 51 with a lyrik as I mainly use it for the most aggressive riding I do (but plan on changing it to 46 with a RS crown unit I just purchased). I have a 42 offset on my sb130 right now and it will also be going to 46 eventually. What I've noticed is that by moving the wheel back with short offset forks, I actually have to shift my weight backward to make the front end calm down and not overreact. I have a fairly forward position when standing due to my height and leg length so at least for me having a really short offset 41/42 I haven't found ideal (though more tolerable on the sb130). You will get used to the change in steering feel though. It took me about 3 weeks and now the sb150 feels completely natural. And even the sb130 with the 42 offset lyrik feels 'normal' though it will be better when I change it to 46. I can also say that despite the sb150 being really long...after adjusting to it, I can get through all the tight stuff just as well as I could on my sb5.5. Your body learns the way the bikes handles and quickly adapts. I have to say I was a reluctant new school geometry adopter, but I totally get it now and am 100% in favor of it.

  21. #821
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    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    Yeah that's exactly what I went off by. With the new geo I thought going with the reach would be more of a reasonable way to go.
    I am feeling that I should've stuck with the old school mentality of going off the ETT for sizing.
    ETT is really important, while reach you can compensate by adapting your position while riding standing on your pedals, ETT is harder to compensate since there isn't much room for body position changes. While reach seems much longer ETT are usually pretty close if not shorter than old geometry bikes due to steeper STA

  22. #822
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    ETT is really important, while reach you can compensate by adapting your position while riding standing on your pedals, ETT is harder to compensate since there isn't much room for body position changes. While reach seems much longer ETT are usually pretty close if not shorter than old geometry bikes due to steeper STA
    Lee McCormack has a good system for sizing called Ride Logic. It's worth checking out. What I found is that a lot of the bikes being sold now have reach numbers that are long. For me when reach is too long, I don't have a good range of motion with my arms and I tend to get pulled forward on drops or really steep stuff.

    https://www.leelikesbikes.com/sizing...-new-bike.html

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    ETT is really important, while reach you can compensate by adapting your position while riding standing on your pedals, ETT is harder to compensate since there isn't much room for body position changes.
    For me, reach makes more sense because it is in relationship to the BB and I can assume on any bike I'll position myself relatively the same in relation to the bottom bracket. ETT however is affected by the ST angle. So a bike with a front-center of 800mm with a ST of 77 degrees will have a shorter ETT than a bike with a front center of 800mm and a 75 degree STA. However, I'll likely be moving my saddle further forward on the bike that has a slacker STA. A good explanation of this :
    https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Mo...rsus-Reach,841

    I think the biggest thing now is with steeper STA and more reach we can all move forward, whereas before the shorter reach (or TT or whatever measure you want to use) made it difficult to be more forward without feeling like we're going over the bars or compromising our DH position.

  24. #824
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    For me, reach makes more sense because it is in relationship to the BB and I can assume on any bike I'll position myself relatively the same in relation to the bottom bracket. ETT however is affected by the ST angle. So a bike with a front-center of 800mm with a ST of 77 degrees will have a shorter ETT than a bike with a front center of 800mm and a 75 degree STA. However, I'll likely be moving my saddle further forward on the bike that has a slacker STA. A good explanation of this :
    https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Mo...rsus-Reach,841

    I think the biggest thing now is with steeper STA and more reach we can all move forward, whereas before the shorter reach (or TT or whatever measure you want to use) made it difficult to be more forward without feeling like we're going over the bars or compromising our DH position.
    This is pretty much spot on in my opinion. When rolling downhill we are supposed to be much more centered on the bike. I only stay far back on the steepest of steeps. My standard DH runs I am very centered on the bike. The SB 150 is probably the best bike i have ridden at this point. I have been on the bike for about a year and its an awesome bike. My bike is not light (Flow EX3 wheels are heavy) but it pedals well if you have the legs and it is the most capable bike i have ridden downhill. The GEO on these bikes is spot on. I keep thinking about changing my bike up as i usually do every 6-8 months but the SB150 has me hooked. It has opened up trails i did not think i would ever be able to tackle, not because of skill but having the confidence to try. The bike just gives you the confidence to try almost anything.

    Did i mention it has me up in the top 100 on most of my Strava DH trails. Most of these trails have 8-10k in times on them so that is very respectable. The guys in the top 100 on most of the Laguna/Aliso trails are just stupid fast (alot of Pro riders EWS). The crazy thing is this bike gives me the confidence to actually try and match the speeds.

    I am no Racer and I will never have the skill of even a sponsered rider, but this bike will not hold me back if I am willing to just let it go.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

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    Awesome ^^ about your dh times. I agree the sb150 is a keeper. On another note, if you didn't do this to your bike recently...check these bolts. This on my sb130. I noticed some creaking tonight and checked the bolts at the top of the seat stays as they had come loose on my sb150 before, well even though I tightened them when I built this bike a month ago they were both backed out, the left one way out. I put more loc-tite on and tightened them up. Just out of curiosity I peeked at the same bolts on my sb150 and one was backed out. Given the ones on my sb150 were loc_tited not long ago I'm thinking maybe need thread lock both on the bolt threads and the inner threads of the nut (the button looking thing you see in the picture). For some reason they like to back out!
    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_20190916_200845.jpg

  26. #826
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    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    Hey Fulltrucker,
    Hey-o!

    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    I was kinda feeling the same way with my bike. Quick few questions what size frame are you running and how tall are you?
    I'm 6' 1-5/8" with a ~34" inseam. Rode a large SB6, X-large SB5.5, and now a large SB150. Reach/front center is much longer on the SB150, and that was not only expected but sought after. My hips-to-hands measurement (sorta-kinda ETT) on the large SB150 is pretty darn close to the X-large SB5.5 with the same size stem, the difference being the seat was all the way forward on the rails of the 5.5 (simulating a steeper STA) and it's in a more normal fore-aft position on the SB150.

    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    I'm 5'10" went with the Medium, was on a Large Sb6. On paper they were literally the same geo.
    I disagree with this, for reasons noted by skinnybex. These two bikes are not "literally the same geo" at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    But I felt the same twitchy-ness of the front end but it had teh 50mm already. Secondly I feel like the bike pushes you forward and I feel way too forward to as how much tucked the offset of the fork is.
    Going from 40mm stem to 50mm stem helped a ton for me, and it also got me a better hips-to-hands measurement for climbing. I suppose it should also be noted that I've been doing a bunch of suspension tuning that's been helping a lot. I've spoken with other SB150 owners/riders in my orbit that have indicated it's a tricky bike to get dialed in, but once it is it's amazing. I share that opinion. The longer I own it, the more rides I have on it, and the better tuned I get it... the better it is. It just doesn't seem like there's much margin of error on this bike with anything: riding position, speed, tune, fit.

    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    Yeah that's exactly what I went off by. With the new geo I thought going with the reach would be more of a reasonable way to go.
    I am feeling that I should've stuck with the old school mentality of going off the ETT for sizing.
    That's what I did. Around me, climbs are often 4x longer (time-wise) than decents, so I didn't want to compromise on how the bike fits me for climbing. I tend to get way out in the backcountry in Colorado, and we can have some 2-3 hours long climbs that are a few thousand feet of vertical. ETT/climbing position is pretty important. And like I said above, the reach being longer was expected.

    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Nice looking ride.
    Thanks! I got another beauty shot of her up above Vail Pass this past weekend, from the Two Elk trail...



    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I think you're feeling the slack head angle and different offset fork, not the stem.
    I agree. I feel that the longer stem helped assuage the symptoms, not change the cause per se. I probably wasn't clear on this. It should also be noted that since switching to the longer stem, I have also changed nearly every adjustment on the fork... changes that have also resulted in a much more controlled, smooth, and less-reactive front end. FWIW, the online Yeti setup doohickey gave me baseline settings that I feel are pretty far off from optimal for me... for both fork and shock.

    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I ride my sb150 with a 50 stem and I'm 5'11 (my sb130 with a 40 stem). When I first built my 150 I used a 41 offset MRP fork and it was super twitchy and the wheel would flop hard in a sharp corner and over-react to small bumps on fast downhills....basically too sensitive (counter to the argument that short offsets 'slow' down your steering'). Then went to 46 and the bike felt more normal, just slack. Right now I've got it at 51 with a lyrik as I mainly use it for the most aggressive riding I do (but plan on changing it to 46 with a RS crown unit I just purchased). I have a 42 offset on my sb130 right now and it will also be going to 46 eventually.
    TBH, the argument about short offset forks slowing down the steering seems counter-intuitive to me as well, but I'm no enginerd so I kinda try and let it go. The reading I've done seems to suggest that while shorter offset makes steering lazier, it can possibly make straight-line handling (particularly through rough terrain) feel less stable? That seems to be more in line with my experience, and makes sense in my pin-headed brain as I equate a shorter offset fork artificially "steepening" the HTA in the same manner as sliding the seat forward on it's rails "steepens" the STA. I don't know.

    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    What I've noticed is that by moving the wheel back with short offset forks, I actually have to shift my weight backward to make the front end calm down and not overreact. I have a fairly forward position when standing due to my height and leg length so at least for me having a really short offset 41/42 I haven't found ideal (though more tolerable on the sb130).
    My experience has been opposite: shifting my weight forward helps the front end calm down and not over-react. Could very well be the difference between our "starting" riding positions, though I've always had the impression that I ride somewhat forward on the bike as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    You will get used to the change in steering feel though. It took me about 3 weeks and now the sb150 feels completely natural. And even the sb130 with the 42 offset lyrik feels 'normal' though it will be better when I change it to 46.
    I'm six (6) rides deep and she pretty much already feels like "my bike".

    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I can also say that despite the sb150 being really long...after adjusting to it, I can get through all the tight stuff just as well as I could on my sb5.5. Your body learns the way the bikes handles and quickly adapts. I have to say I was a reluctant new school geometry adopter, but I totally get it now and am 100% in favor of it.
    Agreed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    Did i mention it has me up in the top 100 on most of my Strava DH trails. Most of these trails have 8-10k in times on them so that is very respectable. The guys in the top 100 on most of the Laguna/Aliso trails are just stupid fast (alot of Pro riders EWS). The crazy thing is this bike gives me the confidence to actually try and match the speeds.
    You sound pretty fast.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





    Punch it, Chewie.

  27. #827
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    For me, reach makes more sense because it is in relationship to the BB and I can assume on any bike I'll position myself relatively the same in relation to the bottom bracket. ETT however is affected by the ST angle. So a bike with a front-center of 800mm with a ST of 77 degrees will have a shorter ETT than a bike with a front center of 800mm and a 75 degree STA. However, I'll likely be moving my saddle further forward on the bike that has a slacker STA. A good explanation of this :
    https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/Mo...rsus-Reach,841

    I think the biggest thing now is with steeper STA and more reach we can all move forward, whereas before the shorter reach (or TT or whatever measure you want to use) made it difficult to be more forward without feeling like we're going over the bars or compromising our DH position.
    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    This is pretty much spot on in my opinion. When rolling downhill we are supposed to be much more centered on the bike. I only stay far back on the steepest of steeps. My standard DH runs I am very centered on the bike. The SB 150 is probably the best bike i have ridden at this point. I have been on the bike for about a year and its an awesome bike. My bike is not light (Flow EX3 wheels are heavy) but it pedals well if you have the legs and it is the most capable bike i have ridden downhill. The GEO on these bikes is spot on. I keep thinking about changing my bike up as i usually do every 6-8 months but the SB150 has me hooked. It has opened up trails i did not think i would ever be able to tackle, not because of skill but having the confidence to try. The bike just gives you the confidence to try almost anything.

    Did i mention it has me up in the top 100 on most of my Strava DH trails. Most of these trails have 8-10k in times on them so that is very respectable. The guys in the top 100 on most of the Laguna/Aliso trails are just stupid fast (alot of Pro riders EWS). The crazy thing is this bike gives me the confidence to actually try and match the speeds.

    I am no Racer and I will never have the skill of even a sponsered rider, but this bike will not hold me back if I am willing to just let it go.
    what I meant to say was that comparing geometry with your current bike I tend to like bikes that have the ETT closer to mine, if you compare reach with old geometry bikes you end up with a cramped bike when seated. Of course ETT already takes into consideration STA, which sometimes makes things worse having bikes that are either too long when standing on the pedals or too short when climbing seated.

  28. #828
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    Just had to share this. Bought a used Fox X2 off of pinkbike for a good price. Threw it on and did a few rides but something felt off. Shock sag was set up accurate but still had some travel left on the shock after rocky sections with several drops and jumps. I didnít think the sag would be accurate if there were tons of volume spacers so I didnít check it when I got it. Did another ride and still something wasnít right. So I took off the can and this is what I found....five volume spacers!!!! Holy crap did Kyle Straight have this shock?? My question is how the hell was my sag reading accurate with that many spacers???


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  29. #829
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    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.

    spacers have small effect on sag but a lot at the end of the stroke for bottom out resistance due to increased progression, yes you probably will increase the pressure a little to keep the same sag but itís not a huge impact
    Last edited by mfa81; 09-21-2019 at 01:03 PM.

  30. #830
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    spacers have small effect on sag but a lot at the end of the stroke for bottom out resistance due tonincreased progression, yes you probably will increase the pressure a little to keep the same sag but itís a huge impact.
    Ya I figured after seeing this. Now I really canít wait to ride.


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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    spacers have small effect on sag but a lot at the end of the stroke for bottom out resistance due to increased progression, yes you probably will increase the pressure a little to keep the same sag but itís not a huge impact
    Exactly, spacers affect progression and change the mid stroke. The sag would be the same more or less.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  32. #832
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    A little more than 1000 miles on my SB150 since early April.

    I pulled the shock to lube the SI, which looks fine and moves perfectly and the main pivot bearings in the SI spin perfectly. Once the shock was out, it was clear that there was a bad pivot bearing somewhere in the system as moving the rear end up and down without a shock in there was very notchy. The non drive side main link pivot bearing was toast (the bearings on the main link, inside the front triangle, at the bottom of the link where it bolts to the frame). Fortunately, my local Yeti dealer here in Durango, 2nd Ave Sports, had new Enduro bearings in stock and pressed in some new ones for me for the brutally expensive price of... $28. Thanks 2nd Ave! All other bearings are good and the rear end felt very smooth again with the new main pivot bearings.

    Off and running again. Still loving this bike. It RIPS.

  33. #833
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    I finally got around to assembling my SB150 yesterday and was trying to figure out why people are complaining of the back end being overly flexible. I think it's the design of the top pivot of the upper link and the way that both the mounting points of the swingarm and the upper link are cantilevered out away from an area of more support. With just a little side loading of the tire, you can see the link flex. I wonder if we're going to see a revision of the link at some point, adding a little thickness to the "P" to make it a bit stiffer.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  34. #834
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    Quote Originally Posted by Druster View Post
    And she's finally out in the wild where she belongs. No issues rub marks on the stays, so much clearance actually. Using a DHR2 2.3 on 30mm internal We Are One carbon rims. No play on the shock mount either so I couldn't be happier with this decision to get an SB150 despite no demo and just using its geo as my ideal numbers based on past bikes:

    2018 Enduro 29er M
    Evil Wreckoning M
    SC Nomad V3 M
    SC Nomad V2 M
    2014 Giant Reign 1 M

    Build Specs:

    Rider: 5'8" / 165lbs without gear
    Turq frame Mediun
    Fox 36 170mm 44mm rake
    Renthal Apex 40mm
    Nukeproof HB 770mm, 10mm rise
    X01 crank, non dub
    CK headset and BB
    XX1 1x11 shifter and RD
    E13 9-46 cogs
    We Are One rims laced to Hope Pro4 Sapim Force
    Tires: Assegai front 2.5 / DHR2 rear 2.3
    RS Reverb 150mm with Wolftooth Sustain mechanical lever
    SDG Fly MTN saddle
    ODI TLD Grips
    Shimano XT Quad Piston brakes, 203/180 rotors

    Added some nice protection for that switch infinity thing to prolong its life


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    Hi which mudguard did you use to trim and install ? What size do I need ?
    :thumbsup:

  35. #835
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    Hi which mudguard did you use to trim and install ? What size do I need ?
    :thumbsup:

  36. #836
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    Greetings. Been considering building a SB150 and I'm looking for suggestions on bar rise and stem length. I'm about 6.05' and would order a large frame. I was considering a 50mm renthal apex stem and 30mm rise bars. Headset would be CK Dropset 1. It looks like most riders are preferring the 50mm stem. What are your thoughts? I appreciate the guidance.

  37. #837
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    Anyone running an ext Storia?

  38. #838
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    My new sb150 build. This bike really is a hoot to ride where I live. I also have a 5.5.
    Grip 2
    Dhx2
    175 dropper in a med frame size
    Rsc brakes
    Assegai 2.5 front
    Trusty DHR 2.4 rear
    SRAM XX1 axs, I love this stuff.
    Xtr trail pedals
    Renthal bars and stem
    The yellow is a wrap I did.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-image.jpeg  

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-image.jpeg  


  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ob917 View Post
    My new sb150 build. This bike really is a hoot to ride where I live. I also have a 5.5.
    Grip 2
    Dhx2
    175 dropper in a med frame size
    Rsc brakes
    Assegai 2.5 front
    Trusty DHR 2.4 rear
    SRAM XX1 axs, I love this stuff.
    Xtr trail pedals
    Renthal bars and stem
    The yellow is a wrap I did.
    Do you mind me asking how much you paid for the custom paint? I really want to do this at some point once my bike needs some touch up work.

    The bike looks amazing. I was thinking of just doing the chainstay's Yellow.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  40. #840
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrazz001 View Post
    Greetings. Been considering building a SB150 and I'm looking for suggestions on bar rise and stem length. I'm about 6.05' and would order a large frame. I was considering a 50mm renthal apex stem and 30mm rise bars. Headset would be CK Dropset 1. It looks like most riders are preferring the 50mm stem. What are your thoughts? I appreciate the guidance.
    I am 6ft and have tried the following combos:

    33mm Stem with 6% rise - Renthal and 20mm ride bars
    40mm Stem with 0 rise - A35 I9 and 20mm Bars

    I like the 40mm and will be going to something 30-35 rise soon. I have not tried 50mm but I like shorter stems way better then longer. I think Yeti is spot on with the 40mm personally.

    Its all personal Pref though.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  41. #841
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    Quote Originally Posted by B3CrewMember View Post
    Lee McCormack has a good system for sizing called Ride Logic. It's worth checking out. What I found is that a lot of the bikes being sold now have reach numbers that are long. For me when reach is too long, I don't have a good range of motion with my arms and I tend to get pulled forward on drops or really steep stuff.

    https://www.leelikesbikes.com/sizing...-new-bike.html
    I talked with Lee and had a fitting done by him out of curiosity. Iím 5í7 with shoes on and ride a medium 4.5 and a 130, he told me both my bikes are way too big for me. He said that even with a small 130 I would never be able to get the correct RAAD. He suggested going with a bike with a less ďradicalĒ geometry. If I rode a bike with the way he suggested me set it up Iíd never fit on it, my knees would hit the bars just pedaling normally.

  42. #842
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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
    I talked with Lee and had a fitting done by him out of curiosity. Iím 5í7 with shoes on and ride a medium 4.5 and a 130, he told me both my bikes are way too big for me. He said that even with a small 130 I would never be able to get the correct RAAD. He suggested going with a bike with a less ďradicalĒ geometry. If I rode a bike with the way he suggested me set it up Iíd never fit on it, my knees would hit the bars just pedaling normally.
    if you are 5í7Ē and he is saying a small is also way too big there is something really wrong with his method of fitting bikes!

  43. #843
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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
    I talked with Lee and had a fitting done by him out of curiosity. Iím 5í7 with shoes on and ride a medium 4.5 and a 130, he told me both my bikes are way too big for me. He said that even with a small 130 I would never be able to get the correct RAAD. He suggested going with a bike with a less ďradicalĒ geometry. If I rode a bike with the way he suggested me set it up Iíd never fit on it, my knees would hit the bars just pedaling normally.
    I wouldnít rely on him for much if he canít fit you on a modern bike. Sounds like his formula needs to be updated.

    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    if you are 5í7Ē and he is saying a small is also way too big there is something really wrong with his method of fitting bikes!
    My thoughts exactly


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  44. #844
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    if you are 5í7Ē and he is saying a small is also way too big there is something really wrong with his method of fitting bikes!
    He bases everything off of RAAD measurement, for trail riding he recommends 58 degrees of RAAD. The only way that was achievable for me was on a small with a 33mm stem running a 20 degree rise bar mounted upside down and backwards. I rode a small and it already felt cramped, I couldnít imagine riding it set up like he suggested. He did help me out with bar sizing though, Iíve been running my bars way too big. I cut them down to 750, thatís made a huge difference for me.

  45. #845
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    I'm going to have a lot of words to write about this when I get back from taking my kids to school.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

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    Thank you Snowsed341, The yellow is a wrap I did. No paint.

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    Oh boy, here we go.

    Firstly, I'm going to do my best not to tell anyone what to do. I'm not offering a prescription or a how-to about fitting bikes and I know that might be problematic for some. I do recognize that we generally look for something that tells us what to do, that simplifies our decision making processes and to rely on "experts" to tell us how things should be. After all, we all can't be experts in everything and we all have to rely on outside help and expertise for various things in our lives. I fully understand how bike fit nestles into this.

    Also, I'm no expert...I'm just another guy making observations. At 45, I've been in the business of building one-off frames (custom, if you want to call it that) for 13 years, have been designing parts and in the bike industry for 24 years. In my shop days, I've used the Serotta system and a couple others that I can't recall the names of...they were similar. Like you all, I've seen the "importance" of concepts like KOPS, ETT and now Stack/Reach wax and wane in importance. If I can't meet directly with my customers and they feel like they need a fit, they can either go to someone I recommend or find someone on their own that they trust. Unfortunately, I've seen some shocking results from these "fit experts" that use a variety of different systems. One example is a friend of mine (who is 5'11" like me) who wanted a road bike. He went to a very reputable shop in NYC and they put him on what amounted to a 54cm bike. They used a very fancy system and it turns out that their most important metric is power output. I balked, they defended themselves by saying that he put out X more watts on a 54 and it was the right call. Nevermind that he just came off the couch, nevermind that they hit that number after enough experimentation that he was finally warmed up. He doesn't know it, but I built him a 57 and he's loved the bike going on 6-7 years now. The issue (to me) is the concept of expertise and the temptation to over-simplify a complex topic in order to boost consumer confidence.

    This is a sales tool in bike shops, by the way. The idea with a lot of these fit systems is to "verify" your fit so the shop can roll you out the door on a new bike from the floor.

    I don't want to bash LeeLikesBikes here, he's made an interesting observation, but like the other systems out there, you have to take it in context and blow it out to the extremes to really test its effectiveness. Back in the late '80's and '90's, practically every bike on the shop floor was the same. Nearly every mountain bike available at a bike shop had 71/73į angles, ~430mm chain stays and size runs in roughly two inch increments. Top tubes were horizontal and you could walk into a shop and say you needed an 18" bike and walk out a happy customer. Some people might size down a little, especially if they had BMX roots, some people might size up if they primarily rode road bikes, but everything was very normal. In the mid '90's, it became much more common to have MTB's with sloping top tubes. The head and seat angles didn't change and 120-130mm stems were still the thing but manufacturers were changing the way they sized bikes. Some measured the seat tube from center of BB to centerline of TT, some center to top of TT, some center to top of the ST and you couldn't use the ST size anymore, so we focused on the ETT, because it was a very convenient comparative measurement. Even through the late '90's into the early '00's as head tube angles started to slacken (or steepen in the case of early production 29ers) it was still a fairly convenient point of comparison between frames and still a relatively valid data point, especially when the buyer or sales person took into account the stem length that was going to be used. As an observation, I noticed that people sticking with their preferred ETT and a shorter stem were less likely to hang onto the bike than people who sized up with a shorter stem.

    Then Reach/Stack became the way to size bikes, and this was around the time when 67/67į HTA was becoming normal. The important thing to note is that this HTA was fairly consistent across manufacturers and THAT is the reason Reach/Stack worked. It's also worth pointing out that Lee's formula appears to be a slightly more simplified version of reach/stack with the difference being that it incorporates the stem and bar. Reach/stack is orthogonal and RAD/RADD is essentially the hypotenuse of a slightly different triangle. It's fine, it's a data point, but it's not THE data point...because there isn't ONE.

    At this moment in time, we have bikes available with slacker head tube angles and longer front centers than at any point in time that I can recall since getting into this industry. We've seen such a push in these past 4-5 years that it reminds me of the 90's, which was a pretty exciting time for bikes, IMO. Rather than ex-aerospace companies CNC machining beautiful (but often poorly functioning) anodized trinkets, geometry is being pushed in new and interesting ways.

    The challenge is that we've lost our easy to reference comparative points and unfortunately it's not as simple as we might like it to be to look at a geometry chart and pick something out. Not only that, but I believe that for the types of bikes we're discussing (in this SB150 topic) that fit has been decoupled from performance. In my opinion, the most important consideration is "can you get enough pressure between the ground and your tires to ride the way you want to ride, where you ride?" Or more simply put...TRACTION. There are so many variables involved...front center, chainstay length, stem length, tire profile/width/compound, bar height etc...that you have to have some idea of where you land on all those issues before you can really pick the frame. Another fact is that most of us are highly adaptable barring injuries that prevent us from using a normal range of motion. With enough time, we can get proficient at riding almost anything if you can get enough grip on the ground. There are definitely constraints, but a lot of folks are going to have roughly a 3" window in ETT/Reach or whatever you want to go with these days, that can be compensated in other ways. Obviously, there's a sweet spot in there where everything works and feels the way you want it to feel, but that can't be prescribed (IMO) and is going to depend on the individual, their expectations, riding style and terrain.

    The idea that the 5'7" poster can't even fit on the smallest Yeti is because the RAD/RAAD doesn't work seems absurd to me. What makes more sense would be if he couldn't ride a small or med frame because the seat tube doesn't allow for dropper that he prefers.

    Just as an example, I've been riding a Large SB6 for a couple of years and just had my first ride on my new Large SB150. The front center is ~40mm longer, with 2į slacker HTA and the stays are a bit shorter. Right out of the gate I know that if I want a similar cockpit length, I need a shorter stem. The SB6 has a 55 on it and I figure I'll try a 35 but I KNOW 100% that I have to really get on the front end on the new bike if I want to keep the front wheel stuck to the ground in corners and everything on the new bike is working against that. There's a compromise here between fit and performance. With the shorter stem I know I'll fit in a predictable way but I'll have to exaggerate my body movements to weight the front tire when I need grip. On my 15ish mile ride the other day the result was predictable. I know I'm slow to adapt, so I swapped to a 55mm stem to speed up my adaptation at the expense of a 40mm longer reach, figuring that the longer stem forces my body position forward rather than fighting the instincts I've built over the past two years. Even with the 55 stem, my position is further behind the contact point of the tire than on the SB6, so I'll have to learn a new stance and it won't feel natural for a while.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  48. #848
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    Amen !

  49. #849
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    And no revisions have been made to the rear triangle. The only thing thats changed are a few adjusted Nm torque specs on the bike and also the not so well known adjustment of the SI mechanism which can both play a roll in tuning the feel of the rear end.
    Can you point me to some information on this "not so well know adjustment of the SI mechanism?

    I'm considering an SB150 since my S-Work Enduro frame is waaaaaay delayed. Anyone comment on the Bottom Bracket height or pedal strikes in rocky, rocky terrain?

  50. #850
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlazedHam View Post
    Can you point me to some information on this "not so well know adjustment of the SI mechanism?

    I'm considering an SB150 since my S-Work Enduro frame is waaaaaay delayed. Anyone comment on the Bottom Bracket height or pedal strikes in rocky, rocky terrain?
    The BB height spec is on the 150 web page. I'm managing to get more rock strikes on the 150 that I do on my modified SB6
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  51. #851
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlazedHam View Post
    Can you point me to some information on this "not so well know adjustment of the SI mechanism?

    I'm considering an SB150 since my S-Work Enduro frame is waaaaaay delayed. Anyone comment on the Bottom Bracket height or pedal strikes in rocky, rocky terrain?
    Last years 150 came with 175mm cranks which was a terrible spec and I do manage a few strikes. I believe this years model comes with 170mm which is what it should have been from the start.


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  52. #852
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    The BB height spec is on the 150 web page. I'm managing to get more rock strikes on the 150 that I do on my modified SB6
    Yeah, the 348mm bottom bracket height is 20mm higher than the Stumpy Evo I have been riding. I had to switch to 165mm crankarms on that bike, but that might not all be to blame on the bb height.

    I suppose my question is more in regard to the SI suspension characteristics on the 150.

  53. #853
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlazedHam View Post
    Yeah, the 348mm bottom bracket height is 20mm higher than the Stumpy Evo I have been riding. I had to switch to 165mm crankarms on that bike, but that might not all be to blame on the bb height.

    I suppose my question is more in regard to the SI suspension characteristics on the 150.
    I think the SI system in general is pretty great. I had an Enduro and an Epic quite a few years ago, and granted we've come a long way in suspension tech since then, I much prefer the SI. I bought a Hightower a few years ago too but didn't like it much either. That said, I'm not wild about the SB150 yet as compared to the SB6. It probably has more to do with the X2 than the rest of the frame. I have a DHX2 on my SB6 and it's perfectly dialed for me. So far with the X2 on the SB150, I'm not happy with the traction in corners and in really chunky sections, I'm getting stuffed up. For the time being, I'll fool around with volume spacers and compression damping but as my schedule allows, I'll be working on how to long shock the 150 before I swap to a coil. I'm making some tools for a suspension tech in my area and will be getting a shaft and eye from him to get dimensions for mapping out mods.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  54. #854
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    What are people doing with spacers for the X2? Iíve always had one spacer for my previous shocks X2 included but I still have about 13mm left with several drops and rocky terrian. I even dropped the pressure by 10 and thereís no change in what I use. I guess I gotta roll with no spacers.


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    I get the same thing as you.
    It is because on the 2019 year Float X2, there is a bottom out bumper.
    We hit that, and it takes a lot more force to use the last millimeters of travel on this shock.

  56. #856
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Aggressor 2.5 with substantial contact. I'd think there would still be quite a bit of contact with a 2.3, might get away with 62.5mm but i reckon it would be close.

    My plan is to fit 27.5 in rear with an offset bush in front mount (can only use in front, rear doesn't have a bush) to raise the BB a little and then hopefully be able to extend stroke to 65mm.
    Now that I've been on the 150 for a bit, and am not at all in love with the X2, I just ordered a DHX2 to have a go at modifying it for a little more travel. It'll have the benefit of raising the BB a bit too (8.5mm sagged) which will be nice as I'm hitting the pedals more than I do on my SB6. Judging by the space between the back of the extender and the seat tube, I should be able to lengthen the eye-to-eye by about 3.5mm before there's any contact and with 1.5mm of available shock stroke, that will equate to about a 3.75mm difference in the bottom out location of the rear wheel. I won't know if that's enough until I try it out, but I ordered a 230x60 shock (it has a 5mm spacer to limit travel) so worst case scenario is that I leave it stock and have my preference of a coil. I was hoping this would be a project for this weekend, but unfortunately, the shock is backordered until 11/5.

    While I'm at it, I'm going to turn a new base plate for the headset that's +8.5mm to preserve the HTA and get the BB a little higher
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  57. #857
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    While I thought through how to modify a fixture to accommodate a fat bike I'm working on, I went ahead and made the +8.5mm baseplate out of a hunk of 6/4 scrap I had in a drawer.

    What color should I anodize it?

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_2272.jpg

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_2274.jpg

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_2275.jpg
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

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    My first post here. I just got a 2019 SB150 GX last Saturday. I've had two rides so far and I really like it. I'm coming off of 2016 Norco Sight 27.5. Never ridden with the 29" wheels before. It seems to take a bit more energy to get the big wheels rolling. One of the things that jumps out is the difference in body position with the modern geometry of the Yeti. I'm 5'10" 175lbs on a medium. I was thinking of going with a longer stem, maybe 70mm, but I see all of these 29" bikes have about 45mm stems. Is it just me adjusting to a new bike? I measured from the back of the seat to the center of the stem on my old and new bikes. The Norco is a medium frame with the stock 50mm stem and it's two inches longer from the seat to the stem than the Yeti. I've read this whole thread and I didn't see anyone going more than 50m on the stems. I don't want to screw up the steering or waste money on parts I don't need. What to do?

  59. #859
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    My first post here. I just got a 2019 SB150 GX last Saturday. I've had two rides so far and I really like it. I'm coming off of 2016 Norco Sight 27.5. Never ridden with the 29" wheels before. It seems to take a bit more energy to get the big wheels rolling. One of the things that jumps out is the difference in body position with the modern geometry of the Yeti. I'm 5'10" 175lbs on a medium. I was thinking of going with a longer stem, maybe 70mm, but I see all of these 29" bikes have about 45mm stems. Is it just me adjusting to a new bike? I measured from the back of the seat to the center of the stem on my old and new bikes. The Norco is a medium frame with the stock 50mm stem and it's two inches longer from the seat to the stem than the Yeti. I've read this whole thread and I didn't see anyone going more than 50m on the stems. I don't want to screw up the steering or waste money on parts I don't need. What to do?
    Make sure your saddle fore/aft is set properly. Chances are you need to slide it back since the seat tube angle is very steep vs your last bike. You can always do the "plumb bob" method.

    29ers do take more effort to spin up for sure. I find that I can help mitigate that with a slightly less aggressive rear tire (since the contact patch is bigger on a 29" tire). Example: going from a DHR to Aggressor. Lighter wheels help of course, but that's going to be a lot more money.

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    The crown race I made last night was no good. I based it off of the dimensions of a King Inset 7 I have in a bin for a customer, but it turns out that the one of the IS52 is a different diameter and thickness. Lesson learned. I had just enough scrap to make another one this afternoon, so I did and attempted to anodize it the same color as the stanchions

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_2277.jpg

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_2278.jpg

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_2279.jpg
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    The crown race I made last night was no good. I based it off of the dimensions of a King Inset 7 I have in a bin for a customer, but it turns out that the one of the IS52 is a different diameter and thickness. Lesson learned. I had just enough scrap to make another one this afternoon, so I did and attempted to anodize it the same color as the stanchions

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So, ummmm......that's just a little on the sexy side......

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    I ended up with a 70mm Raceface stem and a set of 760mm Turq handlebars. It made a huge improvement. I have more weight over the front end now. The bike steers and corners better. The biggest improvement was in climbing, no more side to side wobble in the front end when winding up a steep slow climb. The seat was already all the way back and its perfect in regards to rider/pedal position. Way more comfortable for me.
    Now to work on the forks. The fork is harsh over small stuff and has a lot of resistance to the initial movement. I think I'm going to install the Vorsprung Luftkappe negative air chamber.

  63. #863
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    I ended up with a 70mm Raceface stem and a set of 760mm Turq handlebars. It made a huge improvement. I have more weight over the front end now. The bike steers and corners better. The biggest improvement was in climbing, no more side to side wobble in the front end when winding up a steep slow climb. The seat was already all the way back and its perfect in regards to rider/pedal position. Way more comfortable for me.
    Now to work on the forks. The fork is harsh over small stuff and has a lot of resistance to the initial movement. I think I'm going to install the Vorsprung Luftkappe negative air chamber.
    Luftkappe helps.

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  64. #864
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    My first post here. I just got a 2019 SB150 GX last Saturday. I've had two rides so far and I really like it. I'm coming off of 2016 Norco Sight 27.5. Never ridden with the 29" wheels before. It seems to take a bit more energy to get the big wheels rolling. One of the things that jumps out is the difference in body position with the modern geometry of the Yeti. I'm 5'10" 175lbs on a medium. I was thinking of going with a longer stem, maybe 70mm, but I see all of these 29" bikes have about 45mm stems. Is it just me adjusting to a new bike? I measured from the back of the seat to the center of the stem on my old and new bikes. The Norco is a medium frame with the stock 50mm stem and it's two inches longer from the seat to the stem than the Yeti. I've read this whole thread and I didn't see anyone going more than 50m on the stems. I don't want to screw up the steering or waste money on parts I don't need. What to do?
    I am running a 60mm stem on my SB150 Large GX, and I love it.
    2019 Yeti SB150
    2017 YT Jeffsy AL Two 29
    2011 Trek Rumblefish 1

  65. #865
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    I ended up with a 70mm Raceface stem and a set of 760mm Turq handlebars. It made a huge improvement. I have more weight over the front end now. The bike steers and corners better. The biggest improvement was in climbing, no more side to side wobble in the front end when winding up a steep slow climb. The seat was already all the way back and its perfect in regards to rider/pedal position. Way more comfortable for me.
    Now to work on the forks. The fork is harsh over small stuff and has a lot of resistance to the initial movement. I think I'm going to install the Vorsprung Luftkappe negative air chamber.
    I have the Luftkappe on my Pike on my YT Jeffsy. It did help. On my SB150, I went with the Push ACS3 coil spring kit, and I think it is the best upgrade I have done on a bike yet. The small bump performance is amazing.
    2019 Yeti SB150
    2017 YT Jeffsy AL Two 29
    2011 Trek Rumblefish 1

  66. #866
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    Hey-o!


    Going from 40mm stem to 50mm stem helped a ton for me, and it also got me a better hips-to-hands measurement for climbing. I suppose it should also be noted that I've been doing a bunch of suspension tuning that's been helping a lot. I've spoken with other SB150 owners/riders in my orbit that have indicated it's a tricky bike to get dialed in, but once it is it's amazing. I share that opinion. The longer I own it, the more rides I have on it, and the better tuned I get it... the better it is. It just doesn't seem like there's much margin of error on this bike with anything: riding position, speed, tune, fit.

    That's what I did. Around me, climbs are often 4x longer (time-wise) than decents, so I didn't want to compromise on how the bike fits me for climbing. I tend to get way out in the backcountry in Colorado, and we can have some 2-3 hours long climbs that are a few thousand feet of vertical. ETT/climbing position is pretty important. And like I said above, the reach being longer was expected.

    I agree. I feel that the longer stem helped assuage the symptoms, not change the cause per se. I probably wasn't clear on this. It should also be noted that since switching to the longer stem, I have also changed nearly every adjustment on the fork... changes that have also resulted in a much more controlled, smooth, and less-reactive front end. FWIW, the online Yeti setup doohickey gave me baseline settings that I feel are pretty far off from optimal for me... for both fork and shock.
    So just an update to this, WARNING Long winded blabbing below....

    I got rid of the medium bike and got a new Large Bike. FYI I did sell complete which helped the speed of the sale.

    Anyways.....

    Everything that I was feeling with in regards to being similar to you(twitchy) was basically solved by going with the Large size bike.
    The cockpit in general was so much more natural feeling.

    On the medium I slammed the saddle as far back as I could due to the over the front feeling for me. Also ran a 35mm stem with a 10mm rise on it. Granted I was about to put a diff handlebar with a 30mm or even 40mm rise. Since I was only running 20mm stock yeti bars with 20mm of stem spacers with the tall stock cane creek top cap headset.
    All this to get the bike both somewhat roomier and also off the front end so much. Oh and to get rid of the twitchy front feeling.

    I naturally already ride front end heavy. I tend to dive nose first into rock gardens and corners.

    That said, moving on to the Large size bike it was soooo much better. Still ran the same 35mm stem with the stock 800mm/20mm rise yeti bar.
    But with the larger frame comes the taller headtube and I also added another 10mm spacer under the stem total of 30mm from the medium.
    Saddle dead middle of the rails.
    And it fitted like a glove. Well on the first and only ride so far on this past Sunday. hahaha

    Also I barely noticed the shorter offset on the fork from the large. The medium you could physically see it tucked under you even when I swapped to the 35mm stem.

    But granted, the first ride on the medium left me very underwhelmed and not very stoked at all. The large left me with a smile at the end even tho I almost passed out twice from the climbs we did.

    So all these ideas I had to change out on the medium bike ie. longer offset fork 44,46,52 etc.... are now all gone going with the large size bike.


    Speaking of passing out....
    I keep trying to be in the same gears I normally am when riding the SB6 I previously had. And it's just blowing my cardio up to crap! (both bikes are running eagle xx1 setups.)

    I'm learning that bigger wheels lower range. Like when going bigger tires on a 4x4 truck.

    Does anyone also noticed this coming from 27.5 to 29r. I've played with 29r's and ride my wifes tallboy every so often but I've never noticed once running meatier tires with 29r things change. Or I'm that freaking weak, which I know I am, but dang... hahaha

    Done! sorry so long!

    Edited add-on info: Both bikes in mentioned were the T2 build Turq frame.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  67. #867
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    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post

    Does anyone also noticed this coming from 27.5 to 29r. I've played with 29r's and ride my wifes tallboy every so often but I've never noticed once running meatier tires with 29r things change. Or I'm that freaking weak, which I know I am, but dang... hahaha

    Done! sorry so long!

    Edited add-on info: Both bikes in mentioned were the T2 build Turq frame.
    The 29ers compared to 27.5 wheels mean that the same gear (say a 32/20) feels roughly 5% harder due to the larger wheel circumference. The burly tires also accelerate noticeably slower since they're further from the axle.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  68. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    My first post here. I just got a 2019 SB150 GX last Saturday. I've had two rides so far and I really like it. I'm coming off of 2016 Norco Sight 27.5. Never ridden with the 29" wheels before. It seems to take a bit more energy to get the big wheels rolling. One of the things that jumps out is the difference in body position with the modern geometry of the Yeti. I'm 5'10" 175lbs on a medium. I was thinking of going with a longer stem, maybe 70mm, but I see all of these 29" bikes have about 45mm stems. Is it just me adjusting to a new bike? I measured from the back of the seat to the center of the stem on my old and new bikes. The Norco is a medium frame with the stock 50mm stem and it's two inches longer from the seat to the stem than the Yeti. I've read this whole thread and I didn't see anyone going more than 50m on the stems. I don't want to screw up the steering or waste money on parts I don't need. What to do?
    I went from a 40mm to 50mm stem on my 150 and it made a huge difference. And all the 2020 SB150s are being spec'ed with a slightly longer (50mm) stem than the 2019s. Sounds like you got it sorted though...

    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    I ended up with a 70mm Raceface stem and a set of 760mm Turq handlebars. It made a huge improvement. I have more weight over the front end now. The bike steers and corners better. The biggest improvement was in climbing, no more side to side wobble in the front end when winding up a steep slow climb. The seat was already all the way back and its perfect in regards to rider/pedal position. Way more comfortable for me.
    Now to work on the forks. The fork is harsh over small stuff and has a lot of resistance to the initial movement. I think I'm going to install the Vorsprung Luftkappe negative air chamber.
    My experience with the Fox 36 Grip2 that came on the bike is that I needed to be ~15-20 psi lower than Yeti's calculator to be at the sag I wanted, and that it took several rides to break in. I added a single volume reducer, which helped with bottom-out. Compression and rebound settings are pretty close to what the Yeti calculator said it might be. Fork feels pretty great... not harsh on small bumps, and plenty of support. I've owned like 4 of these things in a row, and this is the nicest feeling one out of the box so far. I think there's a SB150 tuning thread that I detail my settings?

    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi View Post
    ...I got rid of the medium bike and got a new Large Bike...

    ...And it fitted like a glove...

    ...the first ride on the medium left me very underwhelmed and not very stoked at all. The large left me with a smile at the end...
    Awesome, glad you got it sorted.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





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  69. #869
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    I went from a 40mm to 50mm stem on my 150 and it made a huge difference. And all the 2020 SB150s are being spec'ed with a slightly longer (50mm) stem than the 2019s. Sounds like you got it sorted though...

    My experience with the Fox 36 Grip2 that came on the bike is that I needed to be ~15-20 psi lower than Yeti's calculator to be at the sag I wanted, and that it took several rides to break in. I added a single volume reducer, which helped with bottom-out. Compression and rebound settings are pretty close to what the Yeti calculator said it might be. Fork feels pretty great... not harsh on small bumps, and plenty of support. I've owned like 4 of these things in a row, and this is the nicest feeling one out of the box so far. I think there's a SB150 tuning thread that I detail my settings?


    Awesome, glad you got it sorted.

    ALL Fox forks need to have the air shaft removed and cleaned for excessive slick honey blocking the negative air chamber ports. They are usually completely blocked from the factory and this contributes to the harshness. Do this before you even install a new fork on the bike... Good bike shops do this during assembly.
    Denver, CO

  70. #870
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    ALL Fox forks need to have the air shaft removed and cleaned for excessive slick honey blocking the negative air chamber ports. They are usually completely blocked from the factory and this contributes to the harshness. Do this before you even install a new fork on the bike... Good bike shops do this during assembly.
    Solid tip, kinda forgot about that. I replaced the air shaft in a 36 to reduce the travel from 170 to 140 and holy crap was it plugged up with Slick Honey. Time to pull the one on my 150 apart I suppose... Not that it feels bad, but if it could feel mo'bettah.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





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  71. #871
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    Hi all. Just bought a SB150 frame and was surprised with the finish where the switch infinity connects to the frame. Is the lack of painting common?





    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_1695.jpg  

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_1691.jpg  

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_1694.jpg  

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_1693.jpg  

    Last edited by Drifter80; 10-24-2019 at 01:14 AM. Reason: Misspealling

  72. #872
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drifter80 View Post
    Hi all. Just bought an SB150 frame and was surprised with the finish where the switch infinity connects to the frame. Is the lack of painting common?
    Most likely so the parts are no affectcted by inconsistent paint surfaces...think of a headset cup...you don't want paint on the connecting surface. Reason #2, tightening against paint will crack the paint. Don't worry about it, you'll have such a big smile on your face going downhill you won't notice your paint job.

  73. #873
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    I have the same thing on my frame. I think this is pretty standard tbh.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    Solid tip, kinda forgot about that. I replaced the air shaft in a 36 to reduce the travel from 170 to 140 and holy crap was it plugged up with Slick Honey. Time to pull the one on my 150 apart I suppose... Not that it feels bad, but if it could feel mo'bettah.
    After pulling off all of that grease, you're going to most likely need to go back to the Yeti spec'd PSI. I had to add about 10 psi and a spacer, but it was still way more plush than before.

  75. #875
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drifter80 View Post
    Hi all. Just bought a SB150 frame and was surprised with the finish where the switch infinity connects to the frame. Is the lack of painting common?





    I'd have them send a new frame. Not acceptable for the price of this frame.

  76. #876
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    Has anyone coming off an sb5.5 to a 150 felt the need to keep their 5.5? I'm ordering a 150 frame and building it up to race next season but still wary that it'll be at least 3lbs heavier and 55mm (!) longer than my 5.5. That and every <65 degree HA bike I've sat on feels pretty floppy. No doubt it'll shine getting me through Keystone rock gardens but I just can't give up riding 8hr high country epics.

    Current plan is to keep both and use the 5.5 as my adventure bike but I'm interested in the field's experiences? Anyone keeping their 5.5?

  77. #877
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    Please delete if this isn't allowed here.

    Selling my 2019 Yeti SB150 Turq X01 - LARGE (Orange): https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2658736/

    I am still w/ Yeti -- I made the move to the 130 -- felt like the 150 was a bit too much for the trails I ride

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    Anybody with feedback on the following coils?
    DHX2
    Push 11/6
    MRP Hazzard
    Also any feedback on Push coil swap for Fox 36?

  79. #879
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    Quote Originally Posted by colonelkurtz13 View Post
    Anybody with feedback on the following coils?
    DHX2
    Push 11/6
    MRP Hazzard
    Also any feedback on Push coil swap for Fox 36?
    My X2 blew up later in the summer and I snagged a DHX2 to get me by and ended up liking it a lot more. Back end is super smooth, feel like it soaks up bigger impacts much better. Might be the settings but it also sits a bit deeper in the travel and feels like it corners much better. Even being set up a bit geared towards compliance over bottom out, it handles 5' drops great. Mine won't be coming off for the X2 anytime soon.

  80. #880
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terp View Post
    Has anyone coming off an sb5.5 to a 150 felt the need to keep their 5.5? I'm ordering a 150 frame and building it up to race next season but still wary that it'll be at least 3lbs heavier and 55mm (!) longer than my 5.5. That and every <65 degree HA bike I've sat on feels pretty floppy. No doubt it'll shine getting me through Keystone rock gardens but I just can't give up riding 8hr high country epics.

    Current plan is to keep both and use the 5.5 as my adventure bike but I'm interested in the field's experiences? Anyone keeping their 5.5?
    I've been riding a 150 for the last couple of months, coming off the 5.5. No plans to keep the 5.5, loving the 150 for everything, including high country and long rides with lots of vert. YMMV.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





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  81. #881
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terp View Post
    Has anyone coming off an sb5.5 to a 150 felt the need to keep their 5.5? I'm ordering a 150 frame and building it up to race next season but still wary that it'll be at least 3lbs heavier and 55mm (!) longer than my 5.5. That and every <65 degree HA bike I've sat on feels pretty floppy. No doubt it'll shine getting me through Keystone rock gardens but I just can't give up riding 8hr high country epics.

    Current plan is to keep both and use the 5.5 as my adventure bike but I'm interested in the field's experiences? Anyone keeping their 5.5?
    Not exactly answering your question but I also have an SB6, which I like better so far and I'm thinking about selling my 150.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    I've been riding a 150 for the last couple of months, coming off the 5.5. No plans to keep the 5.5, loving the 150 for everything, including high country and long rides with lots of vert. YMMV.
    I agree, the 150 is a way better bike than the 5.5 and they pedal about the same IMO. The 150 is heavier than the 5.5 but the pedaling position on the 150 is much better.

    Descending its not really a competition, 150!!
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drifter80 View Post
    Hi all. Just bought a SB150 frame and was surprised with the finish where the switch infinity connects to the frame. Is the lack of painting common?






    Well, Yeti refuses to send me a new frame...

    Their answer is that "our frames are handmade and small imperfections on the painting are expected around the switch infinity because it's an area difficult to access and paint. These imperfections add to the handmade character of our bikes."

    But they offer some paint to repair the imperfections myself.

    I wish I had stayed with Santa Cruz.

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    I donít find their answer really good but on the other hand thatís something youíll forget about as soon as you start riding

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drifter80 View Post
    Well, Yeti refuses to send me a new frame...

    Their answer is that "our frames are handmade and small imperfections on the painting are expected around the switch infinity because it's an area difficult to access and paint. These imperfections add to the handmade character of our bikes."

    But they offer some paint to repair the imperfections myself.

    I wish I had stayed with Santa Cruz.
    I never actually looked at mine until now, both my bikes look the same but my 4.5 is a lot cleaner looking vs my 130. The 4.5 looks like it was prepped better before being painted, the transition from the carbon to the paint is a perfect line and is smooth. The 130 looks like it was taped up by a blind man and thereís a noticeable lip between the carbon and paint. It doesnít bother me as I donít really see it but it does look like it was rushed.

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    Has anyone had luck building up a sub-30lb XL with pedals?

    My XL 5.5 is 28.4 lbs with pedals and has been bomb proof for two years. Looking to do a frame up build on a XL 150 with parts from my 5.5 and it would be great to get a real world example of a sub-30lb XL 150 for comparison sake.

  88. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by hookem34 View Post
    Has anyone had luck building up a sub-30lb XL with pedals?

    My XL 5.5 is 28.4 lbs with pedals and has been bomb proof for two years. Looking to do a frame up build on a XL 150 with parts from my 5.5 and it would be great to get a real world example of a sub-30lb XL 150 for comparison sake.
    My XL is 31 lbs all in...

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  89. #889
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    I have 6 rides in with about 100 miles on the bike. I installed a Grip 2 and the Luftkappe last week. Only have one ride so far. It is better but the fork still isn't as good as it could be. When I disassembled the fork I found there was a good bit of grease on the stock piston but not as bad as the photos that have been posted. One thing I noticed was how tight the bushings in the forks are. I would think they would be broken in by now. There is quite a bit of resistance to movement. I've built a lot of motocross forks and Rock shock Pikes. Never felt any so tight before. They are not binding just tight bushings. Did I remember something about Fox having an issue with bushing clearances? Have any of you experienced an extended break in period?
    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    I ended up with a 70mm Raceface stem and a set of 760mm Turq handlebars. It made a huge improvement. I have more weight over the front end now. The bike steers and corners better. The biggest improvement was in climbing, no more side to side wobble in the front end when winding up a steep slow climb. The seat was already all the way back and its perfect in regards to rider/pedal position. Way more comfortable for me.
    Now to work on the forks. The fork is harsh over small stuff and has a lot of resistance to the initial movement. I think I'm going to install the Vorsprung Luftkappe negative air chamber.

  90. #890
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    interesting...does it feel "heavy"? I know you are quite the connoisseur of all things Yeti and if i can get an XL 150 close to 30 lbs and it is still "enduro" worthy then I am all in.

  91. #891
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    Quote Originally Posted by hookem34 View Post
    interesting...does it feel "heavy"? I know you are quite the connoisseur of all things Yeti and if i can get an XL 150 close to 30 lbs and it is still "enduro" worthy then I am all in.
    No it doesn't feel heavy at all even though it is slightly heavier than my SB6c with a coil shock. Pedaling due to sta negates some of the weight penalty. I also didn't select parts necessarily only based on weight. I don't even look at grams. I base of reasonable weight and durability and function.. all in with pedals and sealant

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  92. #892
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    I have 6 rides in with about 100 miles on the bike. I installed a Grip 2 and the Luftkappe last week. Only have one ride so far. It is better but the fork still isn't as good as it could be. When I disassembled the fork I found there was a good bit of grease on the stock piston but not as bad as the photos that have been posted. One thing I noticed was how tight the bushings in the forks are. I would think they would be broken in by now. There is quite a bit of resistance to movement. I've built a lot of motocross forks and Rock shock Pikes. Never felt any so tight before. They are not binding just tight bushings. Did I remember something about Fox having an issue with bushing clearances? Have any of you experienced an extended break in period?
    With the stanchion carefully set aside, Kolja does one of the things that he says makes the biggest difference to the feel of the forkóhe works the bushings. With mass manufacturing the tolerances for the bushings is tight


    Source: https://m.pinkbike.com/news/race-prepping-a-fox-40.html

    in my opinion itís one of the most overlooked tweak that makes such a great difference on the trails.

    Ask your LBS if they can do it for you.
    ex: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/fork-bu...hockcraft.html

  93. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by hookem34 View Post
    interesting...does it feel "heavy"? I know you are quite the connoisseur of all things Yeti and if i can get an XL 150 close to 30 lbs and it is still "enduro" worthy then I am all in.
    One thing I've done to make my 150 feel lighter is I have the more dh-oriented wheels/tires (DT ex511, double down or blck dmnd casing) and then a set of lighter wheels/tires (dt xm481, grid casing tires with a 2.3 in the back) that I use for regular riding.

  94. #894
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    I pulled the trigger and bought an SB150. Iíve got about 10 rides on it now and Iím really impressed. Iím coming off an SB6 and Iím really enjoying the 29er wheels. I find this bike to be a very capable climber and a blast on the descents. Itís also way more playful than I was expecting. All in all, Iím really happy with it. Itís heavy though.

    But....
    My fork (36 Grip 2 factory) feels really harsh on small chatter. Iíve tried running less air pressure than recommend and Iíve tried both Yetiís and Foxís recommended settings. Iíve played with the HSC/D and LSC/D on my own too. This fork is bumming me out. Anyone experience the same and have any recommendations. Iím living in Hong Kong and the LBS is not equipped to tear my fork apart. I did read that the bushings may be the culprit.
    Anyone want to share their settings that they enjoy? Iím about 185 lbs riding weight.

    The riding season is just getting started out here and Iím reluctant to send my fork away and lose a month of riding.

    I appreciate any recs or tips.
    Thanks

  95. #895
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    I'm not currently riding a 36, but if I remember my previous 36, sometimes the rebound recommendations can be a bit more closed than most people would enjoy. Try opening up your LSR a few clicks and keep the compression open to start. Yeah you could do a lower leg service and put some more slick honey on the seals. But I'd first start by just speeding up rebound. That said, I've never felt the 36 was a real small-bump champion. If that's what you want, consider doing a coil conversion or trying a different fork. Pulling apart a new fork and doing a bunch of stuff, imo, is a clue that maybe I don't have the fork that suits me. Yeah you might improve it, but you're not going to totally change the inherent characteristics of the fork. First try fast rebound with no compression damping.

  96. #896
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lpcunity View Post
    I pulled the trigger and bought an SB150. Iíve got about 10 rides on it now and Iím really impressed. Iím coming off an SB6 and Iím really enjoying the 29er wheels. I find this bike to be a very capable climber and a blast on the descents. Itís also way more playful than I was expecting. All in all, Iím really happy with it. Itís heavy though.

    But....
    My fork (36 Grip 2 factory) feels really harsh on small chatter. Iíve tried running less air pressure than recommend and Iíve tried both Yetiís and Foxís recommended settings. Iíve played with the HSC/D and LSC/D on my own too. This fork is bumming me out. Anyone experience the same and have any recommendations. Iím living in Hong Kong and the LBS is not equipped to tear my fork apart. I did read that the bushings may be the culprit.
    Anyone want to share their settings that they enjoy? Iím about 185 lbs riding weight.

    The riding season is just getting started out here and Iím reluctant to send my fork away and lose a month of riding.

    I appreciate any recs or tips.
    Thanks
    If it's a new fork, it's most likely the air shaft being clogged with grease. You'd need both oils and some crush washers though to fix it.

  97. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Aggressor 2.5 with substantial contact. I'd think there would still be quite a bit of contact with a 2.3, might get away with 62.5mm but i reckon it would be close.

    My plan is to fit 27.5 in rear with an offset bush in front mount (can only use in front, rear doesn't have a bush) to raise the BB a little and then hopefully be able to extend stroke to 65mm.
    Just a quick follow up...and I'll add more as I see this through.

    My DHX2 showed up yesterday. The same shock serves 60 and 65mm duty. The 60mm travel version comes with a 5mm spacer (pretty common knowledge, but I thought I'd make sure it was here in case anyone is following along.) What I wasn't aware of is that the stroke is measured from the shock body to the back side of the bottom out bumper...since the bottom out bumper can never have a zero width, the shock can't quite get 60mm of travel. I know there's a tolerance to the shaft lengths too, but I should mention that mine, with travel spacer installed, has a max stroke of 59mm.

    In order to test eye to eye length and overall travel, I installed the shock without the bottom out bumper but with the spacer installed at first and I marked the shaft when it's fully buried in the top eye. I started by unthreading the top eye by approx 5mm, effectively making this shock 235mm long (this also increases the stroke by 5mm) and cycled it through from full top-out to full bottom-out. At +5mm the shock is just long enough that the link makes contact with the seat tube. I dialed the shaft in a half turn, probably 0.5mm of length, and there's about 0.5mm of clearance at the seat tube now and at full compression, still about 9mm of space between the tire and seat tube.

    I'll figure out how I want to do this tonight and tomorrow. I run Mudhuggers in the winter and need a little space for the rear fender at full compression so I might try to find a way to make an easily removable travel limiter to run 65mm of travel in the summer and less during the rainy months.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  98. #898
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    Thanks for the replies. Iíll see what I can do.

  99. #899
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    This is the last follow up I make unless there are questions.

    I machined a little 4mm spacer that fits between the shaft and the lower eye, effectively lengthening the eye-to-eye and stroke by 4mm. Each mm of stroke equals roughly 2.5mm of travel so I've increased the travel by ~10mm and I've still got about 10mm of clearance between the tire and seat tube at full compression (tested without bottom out bumper). Before installing the coil, I was considering selling the 150 but for me, the coil makes it a much better bike. It seems to mask the weird flex in the back end too, which is a nice surprise.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  100. #900
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    Super interesting, this is perfect for running a 27.5 rear wheel and bringing the BB back to a reasonable height. Do you think there will be any issue reducing the interface between the eyelet and shaft by 4mm or is there still plenty?

    What is progression like with the coil, does is bottom out excessively or is it ok?

    P.S. loving the 27.5 rear, much easier to get the rear around corners and feels much more nimble, even with the slacker headtube angle. Doesn't feel like a bus so much anymore. And as an added bonus no more wheel rub.

  101. #901
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Super interesting, this is perfect for running a 27.5 rear wheel and bringing the BB back to a reasonable height. Do you think there will be any issue reducing the interface between the eyelet and shaft by 4mm or is there still plenty?
    I don't think so, but I can't say for sure. There's still ~7mm of thread engagement with red Loctite keeping it from rattling apart. I think the important part is the puck underneath the shaft to transfer all the compressive force to the lower eye without transferring all that force through the threads. The thing that makes me feel OK about this is that I have a friend who's a suspension tech (who used to work for Fox). He told me that he got a shock in for an overhaul from a tester and when he pulled it apart, there was a 3mm puck under the shaft/eye connection.

    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    What is progression like with the coil, does is bottom out excessively or is it ok?
    It works fine for me and my riding style. I'm not a big hucker, and just try to go as fast as I can downhill. The biggest drop I typically do is maybe five feet. There are a bunch of compressions and I didn't feel any bottom out over any of it. One one section that I frequently ride, I was within 5 seconds of my fastest ever time over 1.2 miles. While not a super tight gap, the bigger story is that I'm still very much recovering from a massive shoulder and back injury from last year as well as still adapting to this bike. I helps that my SB6 was 100% dialed for me and I used the spring weight from it to calculate the spring weight for the 150 and I feel like I nailed it. It'll take a few more rides for me to dial in the damping, but I think it's very close as is.

    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    P.S. loving the 27.5 rear, much easier to get the rear around corners and feels much more nimble, even with the slacker headtube angle. Doesn't feel like a bus so much anymore. And as an added bonus no more wheel rub.
    I'm glad you found something that works for you, but I think a smaller rear wheel and lower BB would get me into trouble.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  102. #902
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    Thanks for your feedback, been very helpful especially the 3mm puck! Think I'll go ahead and try a coil - the raised BB, extra compliance and extra travel should make for an incredible ride.

  103. #903
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lpcunity View Post
    But....
    My fork (36 Grip 2 factory) feels really harsh on small chatter. Iíve tried running less air pressure than recommend and Iíve tried both Yetiís and Foxís recommended settings. Iíve played with the HSC/D and LSC/D on my own too. This fork is bumming me out. Anyone experience the same and have any recommendations. Iím living in Hong Kong and the LBS is not equipped to tear my fork apart. I did read that the bushings may be the culprit.
    Anyone want to share their settings that they enjoy? Iím about 185 lbs riding weight.

    The riding season is just getting started out here and Iím reluctant to send my fork away and lose a month of riding.

    I appreciate any recs or tips.
    Thanks

    I'm your same weight and what I've found is that by going lower pressures (and more tokens) to soften it up makes it even worse as you lose mid-stroke support and adequate rebound. Going the opposite direction works for me... higher air pressure (20 psi over what Yeti recommends) and no tokens for a more linear/stronger spring rate works far better even over small chatter. Use a couple clicks more rebound damping with the higher air pressure. I do this with all my forks... RS or Fox. As for the bushings... pull the valve core out and cycle the fork up and down thru the travel. You'll be able to quickly tell if you have a tight bushings problem.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 11-11-2019 at 12:18 PM.
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  104. #904
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Thanks for your feedback, been very helpful especially the 3mm puck! Think I'll go ahead and try a coil - the raised BB, extra compliance and extra travel should make for an incredible ride.
    You bet. I'm glad you got something out of it and I hope it works out for you too.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  105. #905
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    New to the Tribe!

    Hey guys just picked up my first yeti, Iíve been really impressed with what yeti has been putting out recently and couldnít get the SB150 out of my head. Thought Iíd share my custom build!

    Size md 2019 turq frame - Iím 5í10 about 170 kitted. Bike comes in at 30.5lb with pedals, I was surprised the weight was pretty low considering I wasnít going for a weight weenie build.

    - Full shimano XT m8100 12sp and 4 pot brakes, been really impressed with the setup, shifts incredibly smooth and reliable!

    - Lyrik ultimate, feels amazing. X2 in back, planning on a coil but the x2 feels pretty awesome right now so no rush

    - sc reserve wheels 30mm Id, with 2.5 minion up front, 2.3 high roller in back

    - renthal Fatbar Carbon light with 40mm stem

    - pnw bachelor 150mm dropper with loam lever - really impressed with how smooth it is
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-ab75a78e-16f6-4e0b-aaab-7f7d4c434a9f.jpg  


  106. #906
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    Glad you finally joined the Tribe...

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  107. #907
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    Go to my IGTV or YouTube for video impressions of my first ride on a Trust Performance "Shout" fork on a SB150

    IG &YT - dagonger

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  108. #908
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    I was having pain in my knees from pushing these big heavy wheels. Also it always felt like the gear I was in was always a little too high or a little too low. I decided to drop to a 28t front sprocket from the stock 30t. Sram doesn't make a 28t. I went to the Absolute Black website and read their propaganda. I ended up with an Absolute Black oval 28t. I never paid much attention to the oval thing before. I remember the Bio-pace Shimano cranks from way back when and didn't care for them.

    Anyway I took my first ride today. Quite a difference with the drop to the smaller chain ring. The ratios are now closer together and more effective. The oval chain ring takes a lot of the torque off of my old worn out knees. It really was impressive. Steep hard climbs are much better because of the oval and not just due to the lower overall ratio. I could really feel the improvement in pedaling efficiency. I think I'm going to switch to Absolute Black for my road bike as well. I would still like some lighter carbon wheels.

  109. #909
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    Go to my IGTV or YouTube for video impressions of my first ride on a Trust Performance "Shout" fork on a SB150

    IG &YT - dagonger

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    I've ridden with Chris and his kids a couple times in Moab, rad family. Daughter is top 3 American enduro and DH girl, while son is all over the Yeti SB140 paraphernalia.

  110. #910
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    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.

    Quote Originally Posted by OLDMOTO View Post
    I was having pain in my knees from pushing these big heavy wheels. Also it always felt like the gear I was in was always a little too high or a little too low. I decided to drop to a 28t front sprocket from the stock 30t. Sram doesn't make a 28t. I went to the Absolute Black website and read their propaganda. I ended up with an Absolute Black oval 28t. I never paid much attention to the oval thing before. I remember the Bio-pace Shimano cranks from way back when and didn't care for them.

    Anyway I took my first ride today. Quite a difference with the drop to the smaller chain ring. The ratios are now closer together and more effective. The oval chain ring takes a lot of the torque off of my old worn out knees. It really was impressive. Steep hard climbs are much better because of the oval and not just due to the lower overall ratio. I could really feel the improvement in pedaling efficiency. I think I'm going to switch to Absolute Black for my road bike as well. I would still like some lighter carbon wheels.
    You donít realize how much it helps to switch to an oval chain chainring until you try one! Same as you, on my first 29" I felt the need to pedal more efficiently (cadence vs power) and tried a Woolftooth (Powertrac Elliptical) ... man, what a difference ... it made everything involving pedaling a lot easier, especially on technical climbs. Since then, every 29" get the same treatment! itís so visibly subtle than people donít see it until you tell them. You get 2 zones, Power & Recovery ... look it up itís really worth a try and it makes quit a vast difference considering the low price of this upgrade. Pedaling becomes enjoyable again



    FYI: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...rac-elliptical
    Last edited by digev; 11-19-2019 at 12:39 AM.

  111. #911
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    Yeah we talked about that.. sounds like a great family

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  112. #912
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    You donít realize how much it helps to switch to an oval chain chainring until you try one! Same as you, on my first 29" I felt the need to pedal more efficiently (cadence vs power) and tried a Woolftooth (Powertrac Elliptical) ... man, what a difference ... it made everything involving pedaling a lot easier, especially on technical climbs. Since then, every 29" get the same treatment! itís so visibly subtle than people donít see it until you tell them. You get 2 zones, Power & Recovery ... look it up itís really worth a try and it makes quit a vast difference considering the low price of this upgrade. Pedaling becomes enjoyable again



    FYI: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...rac-elliptical
    I agree. The same price as round...I have been on oval for a few years now on both 29 and 27.5 bikes and won't go back.

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  113. #913
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    Never posted pics of my sb150, I love this bike! It has been all over colorado, utah and az!

    Specs as follows:
    Front Fork - Rock Shox Lyric Ultimate 170mm
    Rear Shock - Rock Shox Super Deluxe Ultimate
    Shifter/Rear Der/Cassette - XX1
    Handlebar - Truvativ Descendant CoLab/Troy Lee Carbon Handlebar - 780mm
    Stem - Truvativ Descendant - 50mm
    Cranks - Cane Creek eeWings w/absolute black oval chainring
    Seatpost - Sram AXS 170mm
    Brakes - Sram Code RSC

    I have two wheelset/tire setups:
    A) Industry Nine Hydra Hubs laced to Derby DH Rims with Maxxis Assegai Front, DHR II 2.4 rear
    B). Zipp 3Zero Moto Wheels with Maxxis Assegai Front, Dissector EXO rear.

    Pics:







  114. #914
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    How do you like those moto rims?

  115. #915
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethde View Post
    How do you like those moto rims?
    Like them quite a bit, they are my trail rims, and kinda heavy, and do take some time getting used to, but they do what they say w/ the flex.

  116. #916
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    Dhx2 added

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  117. #917
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    Gotta know what you think of the coil!

    Gimme the scoop, been considering the move myself

  118. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    Dhx2 added

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    Sweet ride So glad coil shocks are making their way back onto our rigs!!

  119. #919
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    has anyone found a rear mudguard/fender that works well on this bike? or made something custom they can share?

  120. #920
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    Quote Originally Posted by murrdogg11 View Post
    has anyone found a rear mudguard/fender that works well on this bike? or made something custom they can share?
    I'm using MudHuggers front and rear. You can mount the rear one so it has about 1/2" of clearance to the rear tire and it just kisses the back of the seat tube at full compression. If I tell myself that it makes the bike look like an 80's moto trials bike, I don't mind looking at it as much but it's undeniable that it does a great job keeping your back and shorts from getting caked. The downside is that it doesn't do anything to protect the SI system.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  121. #921
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    I'm using MudHuggers front and rear. You can mount the rear one so it has about 1/2" of clearance to the rear tire and it just kisses the back of the seat tube at full compression. If I tell myself that it makes the bike look like an 80's moto trials bike, I don't mind looking at it as much but it's undeniable that it does a great job keeping your back and shorts from getting caked. The downside is that it doesn't do anything to protect the SI system.
    cool thanks...I did want something that covered the switch infinity system so I used the Mudhugger front on the rear. it works really well actually. full coverage of the link and a bit of coverage for the butt.

  122. #922
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    Quote Originally Posted by Getup2getdown View Post
    Gotta know what you think of the coil!

    Gimme the scoop, been considering the move myself
    So far I like it. I have fond memories on my sb6c.
    I'm still tuning and experimenting with springs..sls #525 or #500.

    Stay tuned bit no regrets..

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  123. #923
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    Question: Have any of you dropped your fork to 160mm to get a bit more "trail friendly" setup? How did it effect the BB height and overall ride quality of the bike?

    Looking to do a frame up build and move over all my parts from my beloved 5.5 and would like to not have to buy a 170mm air shaft for my 36.

  124. #924
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    Quote Originally Posted by hookem34 View Post
    Question: Have any of you dropped your fork to 160mm to get a bit more "trail friendly" setup? How did it effect the BB height and overall ride quality of the bike?

    Looking to do a frame up build and move over all my parts from my beloved 5.5 and would like to not have to buy a 170mm air shaft for my 36.
    If you have the 140-160 fox 36, you can't just drop in a 170mm air shaft. I ran my mrp ribbon coil on it and 160 and felt great both trailer and park-then got a 170mm lyrik. You could also add a 10mm spacer if preserving geometry is your concern. That said, most people buy the sb150 because it is meant to crush everything and having the 170 fork is part of the package. But you're not going to have any less fun with a 160 fork. I personally love riding this bike even on more mellow trails and would always choose it over my sb130 (so it got sold).

    On another note, if your fork is a 51 offset from the 5.5, it will be fine but you may find a shorter offset a little better on this bike.

  125. #925
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    Completely agree with the above. I had intentions to actually drop the fork to 160mm prior to buying mine. Picked up a 170mm lyrik and have not looked back. Doesn't feel big at all and based on geometry, it's a perfect fit. I'm coming off a yt jeffsy with a 160mm lyrik as reference.
    Bender to AZDog: I'm not the best person to give advice on not riding!

  126. #926
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    Hi guys,

    Happy new year. What is the length of your stem? I currently run 35mm on a medium but It seems that I don't have front end traction on the gnarly stuff. I get buckled a lot by my front end.

    Thanks

  127. #927
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    I run 35mm with no issues.
    Try rotating your bars forward a few mm first see if the issue goes away

  128. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetrick07 View Post
    Hi guys,

    Happy new year. What is the length of your stem? I currently run 35mm on a medium but It seems that I don't have front end traction on the gnarly stuff. I get buckled a lot by my front end.

    Thanks
    What do you mean by buckled? Maybe an issue with your fork settings? I run a 50mm. But you should run whatever stem fits you best. In addition to your fork you could also look at your tire pressure and stem height. I have never had any traction problems with my sb150. As long as you're not hanging way off the back, it probably has nothing to do with your stem length. Can you give more details?

  129. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetrick07 View Post
    Hi guys,

    Happy new year. What is the length of your stem? I currently run 35mm on a medium but It seems that I don't have front end traction on the gnarly stuff. I get buckled a lot by my front end.

    Thanks
    I've run a 40 and now 32mm. If I don't consciously weight the front end, the fork will start bucking. Like foggnm said, maybe you're too far back on descents. A longer stem would definitely aid with weighting the front, but the cheapest method is dropping your stack a bit.

  130. #930
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    I ended up switching to a 50mm stem from the stock 35mm that came on my bike. I have the SB150 GX version. I'm 5'10" 175lbs the seat to bar length was too short. I had side to side wobble when climbing and the 50mm put more weight on the front wheel. It corners much better now as well. I changed to a Grip 2 damper and a Luftkappe Air spring. Also I went to a 28t Absolute black oval chain ring. That made a huge difference in pedaling efficiency. I would really like a set of lighter wheels.

  131. #931
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    Posting my thoughts and tuning of dhx2 on my sb150 -

    Instagram TV - Dagonger

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  132. #932
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    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.

    Redacted cause
    Last edited by Grizzy; 03-02-2020 at 10:04 AM. Reason: Dumb post
    :thumbsup: believe in yourself! I believe in you! :thumbsup:

  133. #933
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  134. #934
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    Does anyone know if the 600ml Fidlock water bottle fits on the SB150 without rubbing on the X2 shock?

  135. #935
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    Dear Tribe

    So after lurking around here, reading as much as I could, even talking to some SB150 riders, I've pulled the trigger

    A brand new SB150 turq frame Size M is on the way

    Now I'm getting all the necessary parts (those I don't swap from my current bike).

    So far, I have not found specific info which of the hopetech headsets (from their mix n match line) I should use.

    Would anybody here know and could help me? Thanks a lot in advance

  136. #936
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    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.

    Quote Originally Posted by wavekiter View Post
    Dear Tribe

    So after lurking around here, reading as much as I could, even talking to some SB150 riders, I've pulled the trigger

    A brand new SB150 turq frame Size M is on the way

    Now I'm getting all the necessary parts (those I don't swap from my current bike).

    So far, I have not found specific info which of the hopetech headsets (from their mix n match line) I should use.

    Would anybody here know and could help me? Thanks a lot in advance
    Send them an email and ask for a headset similar to the ęCANE CREEK 40 INTEGRATEDĽ

    OR

    IS41/IS52/40

    MEANING

    Upper ID: 41mm
    Lower ID: 52mm
    Crown Race Seat Diameter: 40mm (1.5")

    IS: Bearings that fit directly into a bonded or machined interface that is integrated into the frame (Integrated)

    you just put it into the frame without pressing it! By hands ... easy!

  137. #937
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    Here you go!

    Hope Part Numbers

    Headset Lower Part HSCJN - IS52/40

    Headset Upper Cup - IS41/2.6 3

    red: HSC3R
    blue: HSC3B
    orange: HSC3C
    purple: HSC3PU
    black: HSC3

  138. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by SebasSXC View Post
    Does anyone know if the 600ml Fidlock water bottle fits on the SB150 without rubbing on the X2 shock?
    It fits without any rubbing on my XL frame.

  139. #939
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    Been tuning a dhx2 coil on my sb150. Loving it..

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
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  140. #940
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Here you go!

    Hope Part Numbers

    Headset Lower Part HSCJN - IS52/40

    Headset Upper Cup - IS41/2.6 3

    red: HSC3R
    blue: HSC3B
    orange: HSC3C
    purple: HSC3PU
    black: HSC3
    Amazing Thanks a lot!

  141. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by wavekiter View Post
    Amazing Thanks a lot!
    Happy to help

    Enjoy your new rig

  142. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sobeco View Post
    It fits without any rubbing on my XL frame.
    Thanks, I also have a XL frame. Good to know.

  143. #943
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    Just finished up my SB150 build.

  144. #944
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    A question/poll for 150 users....which rear rotor size are you running? 180mm or 200mm?

  145. #945
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    For me def 200mm front, 180mm back.
    On the front and in the steep terrain of the Alps where I mostly bike, 200mm front is a must...

  146. #946
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    Quote Originally Posted by wavekiter View Post
    For me def 200mm front, 180mm back.
    On the front and in the steep terrain of the Alps where I mostly bike, 200mm front is a must...
    For steep\long runs in the Alps, big disc up front is a must!
    Last season i used 203mm front\180mm back, but im thinking to go with 203mm front n' back - im guessing more braking power wont hurt..

  147. #947
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  148. #948
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    Anybody have time on the new Shimano 12 speed groups? I rode an X01 Race build last season and am debating going down to XT 12 speed and putting the saved money towards other components / another bike. Thoughts?

  149. #949
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    It's bullet proof and works really well, go for it you wonít be disappointed!

  150. #950
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCordell View Post
    Anybody have time on the new Shimano 12 speed groups? I rode an X01 Race build last season and am debating going down to XT 12 speed and putting the saved money towards other components / another bike. Thoughts?
    I have the XT group on one bike and XTR on another. I can't tell a difference in shift quality between the two. They're both excellent. You can mix drivetrain components to save weight or money if you want. Just make sure you match brands on the chain, chainring, and cassette.

  151. #951
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    Wow, hours reading through all of these posts! Lots of great info, and even some on the issue I'm trying to decide!

    I'm pretty much 5'11" spot-on. I'd love to hear from people that are in that 5'11" range and size they ended up going with and how they feel about it.

    I'm moving from a Transition Sentinel to an SB150. Shop ordered a Large Turq, it shipped last week. Live in AK, but summers in southern BC, mostly Squamish to Whistler to Pemberton. Won't be bringing a DH bike this summer, a couple Enduro races (including Crankworx Whistler). I will probably bring a Transition Smuggler, so this bike doesn't have to do it all.

    SB150 numbers are SO similar to the Sentinel, I thought the large was the ticket. Now the more I read, lots of people have sized down. First noticed this in one of Richie Rudes bike checks. Of course I'm not a Richie Rude rider.

    What size did you 5'11" (or 180 - 181cm) people order and what are your thoughts??!!

    Cheers.

  152. #952
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    Quote Originally Posted by ban View Post
    A question/poll for 150 users....which rear rotor size are you running? 180mm or 200mm?
    I just bumped up to 203mm rear and 220mm front. I found last summer with 180r/203f, 29Ē wheels, being heavier and riding larger descents I was able to start fading the brakes with the smaller rotors.

  153. #953
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    Quote Originally Posted by eknomf View Post
    I just bumped up to 203mm rear and 220mm front. I found last summer with 180r/203f, 29Ē wheels, being heavier and riding larger descents I was able to start fading the brakes with the smaller rotors.
    Yes these are my exact thoughts ...I just installed a 200nn rear rotor and itís definitely better in long descends ...

  154. #954
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    By 4 mm spacer do you mean you made a travel reducer spacer? Also what size tire are you running to get that clearance?

  155. #955
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    This is the last follow up I make unless there are questions.

    I machined a little 4mm spacer that fits between the shaft and the lower eye, effectively lengthening the eye-to-eye and stroke by 4mm. Each mm of stroke equals roughly 2.5mm of travel so I've increased the travel by ~10mm and I've still got about 10mm of clearance between the tire and seat tube at full compression (tested without bottom out bumper). Before installing the coil, I was considering selling the 150 but for me, the coil makes it a much better bike. It seems to mask the weird flex in the back end too, which is a nice surprise.
    By 4mm spacer do you mean you made a travel reducer spacer? Also what size tire are you running to get that much clearance?

  156. #956
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime72 View Post
    What size did you 5'11" (or 180 - 181cm) people order and what are your thoughts??!!

    Cheers.
    Large w 50mm stem and 170mm dropper.

  157. #957
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdo911 View Post
    By 4 mm spacer do you mean you made a travel reducer spacer? Also what size tire are you running to get that clearance?
    Not speaking on smudges behalf, however, this is my understanding.

    It's not a travel reducer. If you unscrew the eyelet from the shock shaft you then place the 4mm spacer in between and re-install, giving a longer eye to eye and stroke measurement. This will raise your bb height and steepen steering slightly. I did this mod along with removing the 5mm travel reducer and run a 27.5 rear wheel. By my calculations I should have somewhere close to 170mm travel now. One thing to be aware of is the possibility of spring bind if you use to much pre-load with the standard stroke spring, I ended up going to a slightly longer spring just to be sure

    Hint, I used a valve shim from a Honda CRF250 as a spacer, fits like a glove

  158. #958
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    I'm your size (180cm)
    Have typical T-Rex build: Very long legs (94cm inseam), short arms, short torso.
    For me M is much more suitable, but with a 175mm Reverb instead of the 150mm.
    Still testing if I like 35mm or 50mm stem better.

  159. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Not speaking on smudges behalf, however, this is my understanding.

    It's not a travel reducer. If you unscrew the eyelet from the shock shaft you then place the 4mm spacer in between and re-install, giving a longer eye to eye and stroke measurement. This will raise your bb height and steepen steering slightly. I did this mod along with removing the 5mm travel reducer and run a 27.5 rear wheel. By my calculations I should have somewhere close to 170mm travel now. One thing to be aware of is the possibility of spring bind if you use to much pre-load with the standard stroke spring, I ended up going to a slightly longer spring just to be sure

    Hint, I used a valve shim from a Honda CRF250 as a spacer, fits like a glove
    Got it. Thanks for the clarification. And is that necessary because just removing/reducing the shock travel spacer at full travel the tire hits the seat tube?

  160. #960
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    While I've thoroughly enjoyed my first 4 months with my SB150, I've been casually shopping less aggressive bikes given the terrain I ride 95% of the time. I'm just not using the bike on the type of terrain it was designed for!

    Interested in possibly trading my '19 SB150 w/less than 200 miles for something with less travel, lighter/more lively. Thinking V2 Hightower, SB130, Occam, Revel Rascal, etc. Looking at 150/130(ish) F/R travel bikes.

    PM me if you're trying to move in the opposite direction!

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_7243.jpg
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  161. #961
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    5í11. Medium with 50mm stem and 170 dropper. Some days I wish I went L. Other days Iím glad I got the M. No help, sorry.

  162. #962
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    Yeah that's it, well sort of anyway. I initially cut a spacer that was 165mm long (230mm shock length minus 65mm stroke) in place of the shock and the wheel hit the seat tube. I have since tried fitting the X2 without the spring and there is maybe 0.5mm clearance at full compression (with a 2.4 DHR 29er). My guess is that the X2 doesnt give a true 65mm travel, but haven't measured to be sure.

  163. #963
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    Yeah that's it, well sort of anyway. I initially cut a spacer that was 165mm long (230mm shock length minus 65mm stroke) in place of the shock and the wheel hit the seat tube. I have since tried fitting the X2 without the spring and there is maybe 0.5mm clearance at full compression (with a 2.4 DHR 29er). My guess is that the X2 doesnt give a true 65mm travel, but haven't measured to be sure.
    Got it. Has anyone tried running offset bushings in the ďsteeper positionĒ and taking out the travel spacer? Feel like that could give the same end result?

  164. #964
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdo911 View Post
    Got it. Has anyone tried running offset bushings in the ďsteeper positionĒ and taking out the travel spacer? Feel like that could give the same end result?
    You should always use the offset bushings in the position they are meant to, otherwise they'll rotate.

    Ask these guys, theyíll tell you

    https://www.offsetbushings.com/pages/get-in-touch

  165. #965
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    I ran an off-set bushing in the steeper position for a month or two and had no issues, I was super paranoid about it moving so was checking after each ride and was all good. Definitely not saying it won't move though!

    I'm thinking of getting one made with an interference fit for the rear eyelet, that should stop any rotation.

  166. #966
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    Fair enough!

  167. #967
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  168. #968
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdo911 View Post
    Got it. Has anyone tried running offset bushings in the ďsteeper positionĒ and taking out the travel spacer? Feel like that could give the same end result?
    Yes, it works fine. A friend of mine has quite a bit of time on it in that setup. Removed spacer and offset bushing.

  169. #969
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    Quote Originally Posted by ambition>ability View Post
    I ran an off-set bushing in the steeper position for a month or two and had no issues, I was super paranoid about it moving so was checking after each ride and was all good. Definitely not saying it won't move though!

    I'm thinking of getting one made with an interference fit for the rear eyelet, that should stop any rotation.
    The rear shock eyelet? If you do that, it'll rotate in the frame and would take some carbon with it.
    Sean Chaney :: Owner/Builder :: Vertigo Cycles

  170. #970
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    Anyone know what the Thread and pitch is for the Chain guide mounts?

  171. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudge View Post
    The rear shock eyelet? If you do that, it'll rotate in the frame and would take some carbon with it.
    No, the front. I actually rode mine today with the 65mm stroke and offset bushing. Itís good to go. Everything clears fine. A little more sag gets the ride height pretty close to normal. I didnít notice it feeling any different pedaling and general riding. The offset bushing had a negligible effect on geometry. Felt pretty damn good all in all. Iíll be riding it like this for a bit.

  172. #972
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    No, the front. I actually rode mine today with the 65mm stroke and offset bushing. Itís good to go. Everything clears fine. A little more sag gets the ride height pretty close to normal. I didnít notice it feeling any different pedaling and general riding. The offset bushing had a negligible effect on geometry. Felt pretty damn good all in all. Iíll be riding it like this for a bit.
    Any noticeable difference descending with the extra travel?

  173. #973
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyIvan View Post
    Anyone know what the Thread and pitch is for the Chain guide mounts?
    M6 x 1mm

  174. #974
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdo911 View Post
    Any noticeable difference descending with the extra travel?
    My local spot isnít really demanding enough to tell, Iíve only ridden it once since I switched it. Iíll report back once I get a little more time on it. I only used about 60 of the 65mm stroke on that ride. So far it seemed normal. Thatís kind of what I want. The only place I feel the 150 needs a little more is deep travel high speed hits. If it rides like it always does with a little more on the bottom Iíll like it. Iíve got an EXT too so this is more experiment than anything.

  175. #975
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    Can any,one comment on the differences between a 160 and 170 travel fork. I really want to put a CC Helm on my 150 but they only goto to 160mm. I did the geo calculator online and I really only lose 4mm in the wheelbase and .3 degrees in the head angle, and 10mm in front travel. The stack is shorter and the reach grows a hair.

    I just really love that fork and with the coil option and pricing being so good i am really hoping that someone has had a positive experience running at 160mm.

    I know this has been covered a little earlier in the thread but i wanted to get an update from someone that has had extensive time with the bike in this configuration.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  176. #976
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    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.


  177. #977
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    I'm currently building up a SB150 with a Formula 35 160mm fork (just love that fork).
    Right now, I'm still waiting for the EXT Storia shock, which should arrive hopefully until the end of the week. I'll report how it goes with the 160mm fork. Pretty sure that it will work great

  178. #978
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    Quote Originally Posted by wavekiter View Post
    I'm currently building up a SB150 with a Formula 35 160mm fork (just love that fork).
    Right now, I'm still waiting for the EXT Storia shock, which should arrive hopefully until the end of the week. I'll report how it goes with the 160mm fork. Pretty sure that it will work great
    awesome thanks, much appreciated
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  179. #979
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    Been running a 160 36 for the last 6 months. Suits the bike perfectly. Bike feels balanced and I have never felt undergunned. I actually like what it does to the geo, as the bike is snappy through corners and easy to get leaned over and locked in. I feel I have a little more weight up front to push (which is a good thing). Couldnít imagine a 170 for most riding unless I was just plowing bike park only. This set up works more than just ok.

    I am on an xl with 50mm stem (6í2Ē)

  180. #980
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  181. #981
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post










    Any other models coming out with new colors?

  182. #982
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agar426 View Post
    Any other models coming out with new colors?
    I donít know yet!

  183. #983
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    I donít know yet!
    Gotcha, thanks!

    Digging this new color! I am still missing last year's orange, but this is pretty cool....

  184. #984
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    Do i see a new liner for the exit of this cable? My bike has some serious carbon wear going on there....
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  185. #985
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    Yep! Letís send Yeti an email to see if we can get some

  186. #986
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    could it be these?

    https://www.yeticycles.com/gear/part...e-port-kit-axs

    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Yep! Letís send Yeti an email to see if we can get some

  187. #987
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    Dont think so, they look like they block the holes. I'm sure Yeti will make them available on their website. I wonder if they might help reduce rattle on the other cable entry and exit ports too? Although Yeti does already have those turq or black rubber cable protect things.

  188. #988
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    One thing I did want to share was my success using Canecreeks progressive coil on this bike. I never really got along with the air, didnt find the small bump overly good, but it did handle big hits nice and smoothly. With the standard SLS Spring on the DHX2 I found I had to run such a firm spring rate to avoid harsh bottom outs that the small bump was pretty crap.
    For me this Progressive coil has the best of both worlds, great small bump and doesnt bottom out harsh I just wish they went up in 25lbs increments instead of 50lbs as I wouldnt mind trying a slight weight up. I also painted it Turq using a custom mixed spray can, RAL5018 if you are wondering, I think it could do with being a bit brighter and bluer, but it will do for now

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_9199.jpg

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_9201.jpg

    Yeti SB150 Ride, Performance and Build talk.-img_9200.jpg

  189. #989
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    Quote Originally Posted by B Rabbit View Post
    Dont think so, they look like they block the holes. I'm sure Yeti will make them available on their website. I wonder if they might help reduce rattle on the other cable entry and exit ports too? Although Yeti does already have those turq or black rubber cable protect things.
    Early when 2019 sb150 was released there were some cable port hacks that you could get from the internet to use....

    Probably need to do a bit of a search here in this forum or fb...

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
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    Yeti Cycles sb45c/sb150

  190. #990
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    Quote Originally Posted by B Rabbit View Post
    One thing I did want to share was my success using Canecreeks progressive coil on this bike. I never really got along with the air, didnt find the small bump overly good, but it did handle big hits nice and smoothly. With the standard SLS Spring on the DHX2 I found I had to run such a firm spring rate to avoid harsh bottom outs that the small bump was pretty crap.
    For me this Progressive coil has the best of both worlds, great small bump and doesnt bottom out harsh I just wish they went up in 25lbs increments instead of 50lbs as I wouldnt mind trying a slight weight up. I also painted it Turq using a custom mixed spray can, RAL5018 if you are wondering, I think it could do with being a bit brighter and bluer, but it will do for now

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice one Dude! I like that kind of stuff

    What coil did you get and how much do weigh ready to ride?

    AAD2418 PROGRESSIVE VALT Ė 55mmX400-488lbs
    AAD2419 PROGRESSIVE VALT Ė 55mmX450-550lbs
    AAD2420 PROGRESSIVE VALT Ė 55mmX500-610lbs

  191. #991
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Nice one Dude! I like that kind of stuff

    What coil did you get and how much do weigh ready to ride?

    AAD2418 PROGRESSIVE VALT Ė 55mmX400-488lbs
    AAD2419 PROGRESSIVE VALT Ė 55mmX450-550lbs
    AAD2420 PROGRESSIVE VALT Ė 55mmX500-610lbs
    So im about 77kgs ready to ride. I went for the 65mmx400-488lbs. id be tempted to try a 425lbs progressive spring but sadly Canecreek only go up in 50lbs increments. I'm hoping fox have some progressive springs in the pipe line. I was running a 450lbs fox sls.
    I'm also going to start mucking around with running a longer stroke, maybe 62.5 to start with, should let the spring ramp a little more as currently its only using 60mm of the 65mm stroke.

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