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  1. #1
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    The One to rule them all has arrived. This is the most well rounded bike Yeti has ever developed so let's start this discussion with everything SB130 related.
    Yeti 2020 SB165
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    The One to rule them all has arrived. This is the most well rounded bike Yeti has ever developed so let's start this discussion with everything SB130 related.
    https://www.yeticycles.com/bikes/sb130

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    <iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/286197240" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

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    I just need to figure out what size to go with, small or medium. I hate being right in the middle of the sizing chart and no dealers in my country to get a demo. Iím thinking Iíll just order a frame/fork and strip my 4.5 down for everything else since it all has maybe 250 miles on it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
    I just need to figure out what size to go with, small or medium. I hate being right in the middle of the sizing chart and no dealers in my country to get a demo. Iím thinking Iíll just order a frame/fork and strip my 4.5 down for everything else since it all has maybe 250 miles on it.
    Measure your current reach on your 45 setup..

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    The sb130 comes with a 30mm ID wheel and 2.3 aggressor? Is that the optimal ID for that size tire?

    Does yeti ever sell the frame with a coil shock like Evil does? That would be sweet if i can upgrade to a Push shock.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    The sb130 comes with a 30mm ID wheel and 2.3 aggressor? Is that the optimal ID for that size tire?

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    I run that on my 45c now and like it..

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    I see it is the same weight and spec as the SB150. Looks the same too. Are the SB130 & SB150 just the same bike with different forks/shock/linkage? The geometry between the two isnít that different either. Would be good to see a comparison in the future as based on weight and geo there does seems to be much benefit getting the SB130 over the SB150 if it pedals as well as they are saying.

    Iíll probably end up with a SB130 though at some point.

  9. #9
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    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blo...20Yeti%20SB130

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    Keen to hear the difference between 4.5 and 130, particularly climbing efficiency.

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    http://reviews.mtbr.com/yeti-sb130-d...rt-term-review

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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwirider1 View Post
    Keen to hear the difference between 4.5 and 130, particularly climbing efficiency.

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    Watch the worldwide cyclery video..

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    https://m.pinkbike.com/news/bike-che...eti-sb130.html

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    I was REALLY hoping it would be available in orange

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    Are weights on the sb130 wrong or what? XO1 race weighs identical to the sb150. XO1 race is also listed with a 170mm fork and X2 shock which is wrong

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    Quote Originally Posted by 123ski View Post
    Are weights on the sb130 wrong or what? XO1 race weighs identical to the sb150. XO1 race is also listed with a 170mm fork and X2 shock which is wrong
    Yeah there are some typos for sure, looks like a copy paste of the 150 on the X01 Race build, which is not right. Lists a 170 Grip2 fork as well. I'm sure they will fix it. With regard to weight, I would not expect it to be THAT much lighter than the 150. Only significant weight difference will be from the shock (DPX2 vs X2).
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    What is the weight of the frame?

    Singletrack World says the frame is designed around a 130mm to 150mm fork. They say it in their video and in the print article. Interesting....

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    Weight of a SB130 X01 Race is 28.6lbs per Pinkbike

    See here https://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-...tis-sb130.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    Watch the worldwide cyclery video..

    I watched the video and am also wondering how does it pedal and climb in comparison to the 4.5? The referenced video basically talks about how the geometry changed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Seagrave View Post
    Weight of a SB130 X01 Race is 28.6lbs per Pinkbike

    See here https://www.pinkbike.com/news/first-...tis-sb130.html
    I'm guessing that's without pedals.
    On the Yeti site, they list this build at 28.9 lbs but they don't mention the size. The XO1 Race is listed at 29.8 lbs, so something doesn't seem right.
    (As 123ski mentioned, looks like a 170 fork listed).

    I expect this bike will be perfect for some....just not me.

    It's a 29 pound bike with a 65.5 HTA.....for $$$$$$$
    It looks like another downhill oriented trail bike that "climbs well for (fill in the blank)".
    Last edited by MSU Alum; 09-10-2018 at 06:49 PM.

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    duplicate removed sorry..
    Last edited by tcusick; 09-10-2018 at 08:03 AM. Reason: sorry for duplicate

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    It's the only first early review that makes a 45c comparison I could find

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    I saw an article that a xl build was just over 29lbs.

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    The MTBR article is an XL at 29.2#.

    It's a bit strange the 130 and 150 GX builds are listed at 30.5#, but the XO1 150 build is 30.5 and the XO1 130 is listed at 28.9#. The GX Comp builds are listed at 29.5 and 30.3 respectively.

    Wouldn't the 130 GX build be a bit less (maybe 1/2#) based on the other builds being less?

    Can't wait to test one!!!

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    Polar Bears aka Shaun XL builds with X2..

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BnikYwqh...=1s0ifwg79stmr

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    Just so we are clear... $9200 and your still rolling alloy wheels? I have to be wrong.


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    Quote Originally Posted by irishpitbull View Post
    Just so we are clear... $9200 and your still rolling alloy wheels? I have to be wrong.


    DT SWISS XM 1501 SPLINE ONE 30MM
    Just to be clear buying an Eagle XX version of any bike that's not a full blown XC race bike is pretty stupid so I don't get your complaint ? You buy the XO race version and then spend the money on the carbon upgrade. Then your spending $9,200 for a bike with the Carbon wheels.

    It's a Yeti and thats the price for admission. Were not talking about the price for the discontinued ASRc models which were priced fairly well during that time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    Measure your current reach on your 45 setup..

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    The reach numbers on the small is already 10mm longer than my medium 4.5, I think the small 130 with a 35mm stem would put me roughly in the same reach length as my 4.5 with a 33mm stem. I'm just worried that it's going to be like my brother-in-law's ripmo, huge reach numbers but the STA makes it feel a lot less than the numbers suggest.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
    The reach numbers on the small is already 10mm longer than my medium 4.5, I think the small 130 with a 35mm stem would put me roughly in the same reach length as my 4.5 with a 33mm stem. I'm just worried that it's going to be like my brother-in-law's ripmo, huge reach numbers but the STA makes it feel a lot less than the numbers suggest.
    If you're on a medium 4.5 you should be on a medium 130. I'm 5'7" and I ordered a medium.
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    To be fair I run this wheel set (DT SWISS XM 1501 SPLINE ONE 30MM) on my 4.5 and although I'd love to try and even buy the carbon equivalent (XMC 1200) I can buy two sets of the XM1501s and they have been bombproof so far.

    After 2 years of use and abuse (in the UK) they are still true, have not needed any bearings, there's no dents, dings or flat spots. They're light, direct, strong. So those XMCs would need to be twice as good and then some.

    Anyway, back to business...

    I'm probably going to go with a frame only self build:

    SB130 Large Turq series Turquoise frame
    Fox 36 Grip2 160mm fork
    170mm Reverb 1X
    GX Eagle drivetrain (although will perhaps opt for a 170mm carbon crank)
    DT Swiss XM 1501 wheel set
    Maxxis DHF/DHR or Aggressor
    Guide RSCs
    180 rotors
    One-up chain guide
    Not decided on cockpit yet.

    I think this should come in at a much more reasonable cost then the X0 available in the UK. Just need to demo one first...which may take some time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    Measure your current reach on your 45 setup..
    If you buy a SB130 with the same reach as your 4.5 you're most likely gonna end up on a bike that's too small for you, unless you want to run an 80mm stem and setback post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    If you're on a medium 4.5 you should be on a medium 130. I'm 5'7" and I ordered a medium.
    I'm 5'6...maybe 5'7 on a good day, I felt cramped as hell on the small 4.5 when I demoed it a few years ago so the shop suggested the medium 4.5 with the 33mm stem. My other 2 bikes are smalls with 40mm stems and have similar reach numbers to the medium 4.5 and they feel great, the 130 has longer numbers than all 3 of my bikes. I guess I just need to take a trip back to the UK so I can demo them both before I decide.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    To be fair I run this wheel set (DT SWISS XM 1501 SPLINE ONE 30MM) on my 4.5 and although I'd love to try and even buy the carbon equivalent (XMC 1200) I can buy two sets of the XM1501s and they have been bombproof so far.

    After 2 years of use and abuse (in the UK) they are still true, have not needed any bearings, there's no dents, dings or flat spots. They're light, direct, strong. So those XMCs would need to be twice as good and then some.

    Anyway, back to business...

    I'm probably going to go with a frame only self build:

    SB130 Large Turq series Turquoise frame
    Fox 36 Grip2 160mm fork
    170mm Reverb 1X
    GX Eagle drivetrain (although will perhaps opt for a 170mm carbon crank)
    DT Swiss XM 1501 wheel set
    Maxxis DHF/DHR or Aggressor
    Guide RSCs
    180 rotors
    One-up chain guide
    Not decided on cockpit yet.

    I think this should come in at a much more reasonable cost then the X0 available in the UK. Just need to demo one first...which may take some time.
    Sounds like a great build.. post pics when your done!

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    https://youtu.be/UWAK_g4Lr28

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Just to be clear buying an Eagle XX version of any bike that's not a full blown XC race bike is pretty stupid so I don't get your complaint ? You buy the XO race version and then spend the money on the carbon upgrade. Then your spending $9,200 for a bike with the Carbon wheels.

    It's a Yeti and thats the price for admission. Were not talking about the price for the discontinued ASRc models which were priced fairly well during that time.
    I think the complaint is the stratospheric expense for a complete bike w/o carbon wheels. It's a legitimate point. Most consumers don't like getting ripped off. That price, for that build, is completely ridiculous. The total price is way more than the total combined retail price for every component on the bike, if you bought them individually. That's hilariously stupid.

    Nobody asked if the XX1 is the build you would pick. Let the conversation breathe a bit. Can you allow others to contribute occasionally without you jumping in immediately, shouting down any and all possible negative feedback (on a bike you haven't even ridden yet)?

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    Quote Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
    The reach numbers on the small is already 10mm longer than my medium 4.5, I think the small 130 with a 35mm stem would put me roughly in the same reach length as my 4.5 with a 33mm stem. I'm just worried that it's going to be like my brother-in-law's ripmo, huge reach numbers but the STA makes it feel a lot less than the numbers suggest.
    In my opinion, this is where everyone gets confused, or confuses everyone else, by talking about reach. The reach is how far the handlebars will be from the bottom bracket, not from the saddle. Top tube length is the measurement that relates more to the seat to bars length and feel.


    A longer reach with a steeper seat tube will result in much less difference in overall feel, with regards to seat to bars.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReXTless View Post
    I think the complaint is the stratospheric expense for a complete bike w/o carbon wheels. It's a legitimate point. Most consumers don't like getting ripped off. That price, for that build, is completely ridiculous. The total price is way more than the total combined retail price for every component on the bike, if you bought them individually. That's hilariously stupid.

    Nobody asked if the XX1 is the build you would pick. Let the conversation breathe a bit. Can you allow others to contribute occasionally without you jumping in immediately, shouting down any and all possible negative feedback (on a bike you haven't even ridden yet)?
    You can always buy the frame and spec it and build it yourself. Save the overhead of Yeti paying an employee to build the bike for you or do they work for free?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    If you buy a SB130 with the same reach as your 4.5 you're most likely gonna end up on a bike that's too small for you, unless you want to run an 80mm stem and setback post.
    This

    The steeeeeep seat tube angle makes a huge difference here.
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    Planning on getting a sb130 as my one bike. New to Yeti but always wanted one and have finally decided to pull the trigger. However, am trying to decide how to go about it. GX Comp with a carbon wheel upgrade or XO1 Turq. I donít plan to race but would still like to stay under 30 lbs. I tend to upgrade over time as stuff breaks. If I go XO1 turq the carbon wheelset would have to wait quite a while. Is the turq frame worth it? I can probably live with the performance shock/fork on the GX comp indefinitely.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Headoc View Post
    Planning on getting a sb130 as my one bike. New to Yeti but always wanted one and have finally decided to pull the trigger. However, am trying to decide how to go about it. GX Comp with a carbon wheel upgrade or XO1 Turq. I donít plan to race but would still like to stay under 30 lbs. I tend to upgrade over time as stuff breaks. If I go XO1 turq the carbon wheelset would have to wait quite a while. Is the turq frame worth it? I can probably live with the performance shock/fork on the GX comp indefinitely.
    Mtbr had a XL not sure what exact build but was under 30lbs..

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    Quote Originally Posted by David R View Post
    If you buy a SB130 with the same reach as your 4.5 you're most likely gonna end up on a bike that's too small for you, unless you want to run an 80mm stem and setback post.
    I know you are referring to SB45 vs SB130.. SB45 M has marginally longer reach vs SB100 M.
    SB100 in M size has the same/similar reach as SB130 in S size. And SB100 is supposed to be ridden in a less upright position vs SB130. Hence should a person riding M size SB100 or SB45 be riding a S size SB130 ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Headoc View Post
    Planning on getting a sb130 as my one bike. New to Yeti but always wanted one and have finally decided to pull the trigger. However, am trying to decide how to go about it. GX Comp with a carbon wheel upgrade or XO1 Turq. I donít plan to race but would still like to stay under 30 lbs. I tend to upgrade over time as stuff breaks. If I go XO1 turq the carbon wheelset would have to wait quite a while. Is the turq frame worth it? I can probably live with the performance shock/fork on the GX comp indefinitely.
    Iím in the exact same position, this will be my first Yeti, main bike. I went with X01 Turq. Iíll put some nice wheels on it down there road.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ReXTless View Post
    I think the complaint is the stratospheric expense for a complete bike w/o carbon wheels. It's a legitimate point. Most consumers don't like getting ripped off. That price, for that build, is completely ridiculous. The total price is way more than the total combined retail price for every component on the bike, if you bought them individually. That's hilariously stupid.

    Nobody asked if the XX1 is the build you would pick. Let the conversation breathe a bit. Can you allow others to contribute occasionally without you jumping in immediately, shouting down any and all possible negative feedback (on a bike you haven't even ridden yet)?
    Remember to drink your cup of kool aid before reading the Yetis threads...

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    Just noticed Geoff Kabush is riding a Large SB 130 while he rides an XL in the SB100. At 6'2" (188cm) he's the same height as me and on the cusp of a L/XL SB130 or 150. I feel like Yeti is being conservative with their sizing recommendations and that it may actually be better to size up. Won't know until stepping on both...or comparing an XL Sentinel...and you know next year's new SC Hightower will sit in between sizes of the Yeti (i.e. XL HT will slot in between L/XL 130), but the 130 and 150 (and SI) are oh so nice!

    Note: I suppose its possible that the athletes don't have XLs available to them yet and he may in fact switch it up to the bigger one once they are?

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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    Just noticed Geoff Kabush is riding a Large SB 130 while he rides an XL in the SB100. At 6'2" (188cm) he's the same height as me and on the cusp of a L/XL SB130 or 150. I feel like Yeti is being conservative with their sizing recommendations and that it may actually be better to size up. Won't know until stepping on both...or comparing an XL Sentinel...and you know next year's new SC Hightower will sit in between sizes of the Yeti (i.e. XL HT will slot in between L/XL 130), but the 130 and 150 (and SI) are oh so nice!

    Note: I suppose its possible that the athletes don't have XLs available to them yet and he may in fact switch it up to the bigger one once they are?
    Negative, need to look at the reach when sizing. 150 and 130 reach is 480mm while the 100 is only 152mm in reach for a large. Yeti is not being conservative with the sizing this time around as these numbers are on the longer end of current trend. Thatís most likely why he went with a L 130 and an XL 100. These guys get first pick of the litter and wonít have to wait for their desired size.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReXTless View Post
    I think the complaint is the stratospheric expense for a complete bike w/o carbon wheels. It's a legitimate point. Most consumers don't like getting ripped off. That price, for that build, is completely ridiculous. The total price is way more than the total combined retail price for every component on the bike, if you bought them individually. That's hilariously stupid.

    Nobody asked if the XX1 is the build you would pick. Let the conversation breathe a bit. Can you allow others to contribute occasionally without you jumping in immediately, shouting down any and all possible negative feedback (on a bike you haven't even ridden yet)?
    Sorry but this SB130 Thread should not be about Carbon wheels not included in the price or the perceived value of the builds. I really think any complaints about value and pricing should be left out of this Thread. Make your own discussion to talk about pricing and whether people are smart or stupid for paying above retail for the component spec.

    I made the comment to try and get away from the disscusion going off topic since we know Yeti's are expensive.

    It's common sense looking at the price structure that Yeti operates by that there is very little value in buying any of the XX1 builds and for that matter this sham of a build they created called XO Race where you pay a riduculous amount more for a better cassette and a more durable aluminum wheel.

    This has been the same strategy for the past 3 years since Yeti stopped offering builds with Enve wheels which they severed there partnership with.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Sorry but this SB130 Thread should not be about Carbon wheels not included in the price or the perceived value of the builds. I really think any complaints about value and pricing should be left out of this Thread. Make your own discussion to talk about pricing and whether people are smart or stupid for paying above retail for the component spec.
    Dude, price value, warranty, past failures .. all the things you dont want to see discussed here ARE relevant otherwise people wouldnt bring the subject up. You need to chill and not be so defending of Yeti.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwim5 View Post
    Dude, price value, warranty, past failures .. all the things you dont want to see discussed here ARE relevant otherwise people wouldnt bring the subject up. You need to chill and not be so defending of Yeti.
    Iím not defending Yeti. I refuse to buy there builds. Never have and never will.

    They are overpriced from the aspect of value to dollar ratio.

    Go on Pinkbike and read the 300 posts on the bike release and the same exact comments and jokes are thrown around about price and being a dentist Bike.

    Sorry but we all know the price for owning one of these bikes and if I or anyone can help make it more reasonable letís make it happen.

    Iím always trying to give the heads up on sales and promotions when I find them.

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    Just for reference I've never once bought a Yeti Factory build. I've always chosen a Frame up build because I know I can spec a superior build that fits my needs for 15-20% less than what is charged.

    Not everyone cares or desires to take that approach and that's cool as well. Here's the build I'd Spec for an SB130 Turq Frame

    SB130 Turq Large Frame $3500......you can get 10% gift vouchers for parts if you ask at many of the Online retailers
    2019 Fox 36 Grip2 44mm Offset 160mm travel reduced to 150mm 10-20% off these forks are easily attainable
    Wheels- We are one composite have a LT warranty and you can have a premium set custom built from $1200-$1500
    Drivetrain- Sram GX Eagle complete group with Truvativ Carbon cranks $500
    Oneup Dropper 170mm and lever for around $200 after online codes

    For under $6500 you can build a Turq SB130 or SB150 with Eagle and high quality Carbon wheels, Cranks, Bar
    Yeti 2020 SB165
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    Yeti 2018 SB100 AXS

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    You guys are absolutely correct " IrishPitbull, ReXTless and Kiwim5" and I need to learn to chill and stop trying to dictate whatever is being discussed. All this information is helpful and productive so I apologize for being ignorant.

    Sorry for getting off topic with my Tantrum
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    Sb130 with the new xtr m9100 groupset will be sweet.

    I like hearing both the good and bad of a product. There's no good without the bad.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman1976 View Post
    Negative, need to look at the reach when sizing. 150 and 130 reach is 480mm while the 100 is only 152mm in reach for a large. Yeti is not being conservative with the sizing this time around as these numbers are on the longer end of current trend. Thatís most likely why he went with a L 130 and an XL 100. These guys get first pick of the litter and wonít have to wait for their desired size.
    I think he may be thinking the the XL size may not yet be available, M and L is most of their business so often XL will be somewhat delayed.

    Are you saying you only need to look at reach? Id say thatís an oversimplification. Direct from Yeti,Ē Medium 130 will feel about the same as M 4.5Ē. Reach is long yes but STA is super steep.

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    How you guys see the Sb130 in comparison to the Sb 5.5 ? Will it be the better all rounder ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    You guys are absolutely correct " IrishPitbull, ReXTless and Kiwim5" and I need to learn to chill and stop trying to dictate whatever is being discussed. All this information is helpful and productive so I apologize for being ignorant.

    Sorry for getting off topic with my Tantrum

    Nope just you, the rest of us are pretty cool.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Just for reference I've never once bought a Yeti Factory build. I've always chosen a Frame up build because I know I can spec a superior build that fits my needs for 15-20% less than what is charged.

    Not everyone cares or desires to take that approach and that's cool as well. Here's the build I'd Spec for an SB130 Turq Frame

    SB130 Turq Large Frame $3500......you can get 10% gift vouchers for parts if you ask at many of the Online retailers
    2019 Fox 36 Grip2 44mm Offset 160mm travel reduced to 150mm 10-20% off these forks are easily attainable
    Wheels- We are one composite have a LT warranty and you can have a premium set custom built from $1200-$1500
    Drivetrain- Sram GX Eagle complete group with Truvativ Carbon cranks $500
    Oneup Dropper 170mm and lever for around $200 after online codes

    For under $6500 you can build a Turq SB130 or SB150 with Eagle and high quality Carbon wheels, Cranks, Bar
    saving this comment, as I was trying to spec out a build last night.
    Off topic, sorry, but I could not find the right fork last night. I could not find the 150m fox factory 29 fork? You looking one that adjusts down to 150mm? WOuldnt that change the geo of the bike?

    Is it possible to build this bike out at around 5500?

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Sorry but this SB130 Thread should not be about Carbon wheels not included in the price or the perceived value of the builds...
    I actually think it completely belongs in the "build" thread. I (and others) frequently ask other what is the perceived "best" build is.

    Perhaps the original post could have been phrased differently, but the initial post made me think about a "frame only" purchase and your post gave an alternative build that gives nearly equal quality build + carbon wheels.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    saving this comment, as I was trying to spec out a build last night.
    Off topic, sorry, but I could not find the right fork last night. I could not find the 150m fox factory 29 fork? You looking one that adjusts down to 150mm? WOuldnt that change the geo of the bike?

    Is it possible to build this bike out at around 5500?
    The factory spec is 150mm fork.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    I think he may be thinking the the XL size may not yet be available, M and L is most of their business so often XL will be somewhat delayed.

    Are you saying you only need to look at reach? Id say thatís an oversimplification. Direct from Yeti,Ē Medium 130 will feel about the same as M 4.5Ē. Reach is long yes but STA is super steep.
    Ya, was referring to the reach since the top tubes have remained about the same length because of the steeper seat angle. For example, Iím 6í and my 5.5 feels really good seated. Wouldnít really want any longer of a TT. But I would like quite a bit more reach. So i would go for a L again. Was tempted to get an xl 5.5 but I would have had to cut the seat tube to get a decent length dropper installed!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Yok View Post
    The factory spec is 150mm fork.
    Ya, had a hard time finding this last night. Everything was 170, 180 and I saw one 160.

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    I'm pretty pissed we are about to get hammered by a Hurricane right when I will be getting the new bike. Trails are going to take a while to dry out after 20"+ of rain, if we get what they are calling for.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yok View Post
    Ya, had a hard time finding this last night. Everything was 170, 180 and I saw one 160.
    The Yeti guys are saying it rides really well with a 160 fork. Basically an upgraded 5.5.

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    Anyone know the shock specs? Length and stroke dimensions?
    In serving the wicked, expect no reward, and be thankful if you escape injury for your pains.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stalkerfiveo View Post
    anyone know the shock specs? Length and stroke dimensions?
    210 x 52.5
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Just for reference I've never once bought a Yeti Factory build. I've always chosen a Frame up build because I know I can spec a superior build that fits my needs for 15-20% less than what is charged.

    Not everyone cares or desires to take that approach and that's cool as well. Here's the build I'd Spec for an SB130 Turq Frame

    SB130 Turq Large Frame $3500......you can get 10% gift vouchers for parts if you ask at many of the Online retailers
    2019 Fox 36 Grip2 44mm Offset 160mm travel reduced to 150mm 10-20% off these forks are easily attainable
    Wheels- We are one composite have a LT warranty and you can have a premium set custom built from $1200-$1500
    Drivetrain- Sram GX Eagle complete group with Truvativ Carbon cranks $500
    Oneup Dropper 170mm and lever for around $200 after online codes

    For under $6500 you can build a Turq SB130 or SB150 with Eagle and high quality Carbon wheels, Cranks, Bar
    ^^^
    This is absolutely true. If you truly want to be frugal and save as much money, build the bike yourself. I just built my SB100 turq with top of line parts, mix GX/XO comp for best weight savings/performance, carbon wheelset <1300g, next sl crankset, KS dropper for $6800. Final weight was #25lb with pedals. This can be done with the SB130. You also DO NOT NEED NEW PARTS. I would absolutely source OEM takeoffs/barely used parts that people part with in classified and pinkbike. Your biggest costs will be the frame/fork/carbon wheelset. Everything else can be had cheap. You can potentially spec a TURQ build for < $5k if you're savy enough.

    This winter I will start my SB130 build, will aim to make it like the SB5LR for burlier riding, keeping my sb100 because it flat out shreds everything I ride in Pisgah. Sb100= rocket ship, I'm predicting Sb130 is a monster truck with rockets attached.
    Last edited by chichiballz; 09-11-2018 at 07:44 AM. Reason: Spell check

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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    saving this comment, as I was trying to spec out a build last night.
    Off topic, sorry, but I could not find the right fork last night. I could not find the 150m fox factory 29 fork? You looking one that adjusts down to 150mm? WOuldnt that change the geo of the bike?

    Is it possible to build this bike out at around 5500?
    It would be very difficult with Carbon wheels for that price. You could definitely get full factory suspension and all the bells and whistles and a nice set of aluminum wheels for around $5,500.

    The Grip2 Fox 36 isn't offered in anything shorter than 160mm so you'd need to travel reduce the fork to 150mm to keep the stock Geo. I don't think there's much benefit running 160mm up front when the bike is already slack 65.5 but I'm sure there will be plenty of riders that will experiment.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    It would be very difficult with Carbon wheels for that price. You could definitely get full factory suspension and all the bells and whistles and a nice set of aluminum wheels for around $5,500.

    The Grip2 Fox 36 isn't offered in anything shorter than 160mm so you'd need to travel reduce the fork to 150mm to keep the stock Geo. I don't think there's much benefit running 160mm up front when the bike is already slack 65.5 but I'm sure there will be plenty of riders that will experiment.
    Question, does the build come with that same fork, already reduced to 150?

    Dumber question, how do you reduce it down to 150?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    I'm pretty pissed we are about to get hammered by a Hurricane right when I will be getting the new bike. Trails are going to take a while to dry out after 20"+ of rain, if we get what they are calling for.
    Yeah buddy, when nature takes over it really complicates the things we enjoy doing and definitely appreciate it more. The important thing is to get the bike home and hunker down and soon enough you'll be on the trail stoked.
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastwoodLB View Post
    How you guys see the Sb130 in comparison to the Sb 5.5 ? Will it be the better all rounder ?
    It will be a better fitting bike. A wider range of adjustment and comfort with the ability to size up or down and get the exact dropper length that works best.

    I think ride performance wise it'll be an improvement but it takes some adjustment with body positioning to feel comfy with a bike that has a steep STA and and the more forward riding position. Once you buy into the forward weighted riding style the bike will sing.

    The WB numbers are where some will feel duped but it all works in conjunction with the Geo and the bike will ride smaller and tighter than you'd expect.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Yeah buddy, when nature takes over it really complicates the things we enjoy doing and definitely appreciate it more. The important thing is to get the bike home and hunker down and soon enough you'll be on the trail stoked.
    Good news is my wife and some friends are doing the 1/2 Ironman in Augusta, Ga next weekend so I may get to take the bike and ride some out of state trails soon.
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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    ^^^
    This is absolutely true. If you truely want to be frugal and save as much money, build the bike yourself. I just built my SB100 turq with top of line parts, mix GX/XO comp for best weight savings/performance, carbon wheelset <1300g, next sl crankset, KS dropper for $6800. Final weight was #25lb with pedals. This can be done with the SB130. You also DO NOT NEED NEW PARTS. I would absolutely source OEM takeoffs/barely used parts that people part with in classified and pinkbike. Your biggest costs will be the frame/fork/carbon wheelset. Everything else can be had cheap. You can potentially spec a TURQ build for < $5k if you're savy enough.

    This winter I will start my SB130 build, will aim to make it like the SB5LR for burlier riding, keeping my sb100 because it flat out shreds everything I ride in Pisgah. Sb100= rocket ship, I'm predicting Sb130 is a monster truck with rockets attached.
    The SB100 does pretty good in Pisgah? I'm in Charlotte and cant wait to get up there with the new 130. Planning to do PMBAR next spring so I've got some training to do.
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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    ^^^
    This is absolutely true. If you truely want to be frugal and save as much money, build the bike yourself. I just built my SB100 turq with top of line parts, mix GX/XO comp for best weight savings/performance, carbon wheelset <1300g, next sl crankset, KS dropper for $6800. Final weight was #25lb with pedals. This can be done with the SB130. You also DO NOT NEED NEW PARTS. I would absolutely source OEM takeoffs/barely used parts that people part with in classified and pinkbike. Your biggest costs will be the frame/fork/carbon wheelset. Everything else can be had cheap. You can potentially spec a TURQ build for < $5k if you're savy enough
    This is exactly what I've done for every bike I own. I buy the frame separate. For instance you can deal with WWC, PB Supply, BC/CC or Jenson and either get 10% off the frame price if you ask nicely or they will give you store credit towards parts or other items.

    Then I scour PB or Ebay and work on finding New Takeoffs or overstock OEM parts the save me 30-50% MSRP.

    Lastly companies like WWC, Pro Bike Supply and Universal Cycle have discount codes that pop up from time to time and can save you from 10-20% off new parts.

    In the end you pay no sales tax with free shipping and build the bike exactly how you wan't it. People will still buy complete bikes or support there local bike shop which is great but there are other alternatives to building a dream bike for 2k-3k less than what the Factory builds cost.

    It just takes time and patience but it's a fun experience doing it this way.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Question, does the build come with that same fork, already reduced to 150?

    Dumber question, how do you reduce it down to 150?
    The Factory build come with the Fit4 damper which is a 3 position compression lever.

    The travel reduction or increase to any Fox fork is done through purchasing a new airshaft that can cost between $30-$40. I believe you can't reduce a Fox36 Chassis to lower than 140mm travel
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Good news is my wife and some friends are doing the 1/2 Ironman in Augusta, Ga next weekend so I may get to take the bike and ride some out of state trails soon.
    Very nice, Plenty of riding Georgia. You could even road trip up to Mulberry Gap or Chattanooga
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    210 x 52.5
    Hmmm. Is 52.5 stroke new? I have seen 210x50 and 210x55.

    My main reason for asking is I have a 210x55 coil already. I am strongly interested in buying a frame only and swapping all my stuff over. The only thing I would need is a BB and a new 44mm offset lower for my Ribbon coil.

    The 52.5 stroke sounds like it might be an issue though.
    In serving the wicked, expect no reward, and be thankful if you escape injury for your pains.

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    It does extremely well. I have yet to do Farlow gap and Daniels ridge, which will be the true test for the bike. But everything else I have done, I have PRed my SB5c times on the climbing the descents on the first week I've ridden.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    The Factory build come with the Fit4 damper which is a 3 position compression lever.

    The travel reduction or increase to any Fox fork is done through purchasing a new airshaft that can cost between $30-$40. I believe you can't reduce a Fox36 Chassis to lower than 140mm travel
    Would be this right?
    https://www.backcountry.com/fox-raci...AaAu8SEALw_wcB

    Would you need 1 or 2 of these?
    If we did get a fork, it has to be 44mm offset right?

  77. #77
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    One thing about anyone thatís considering doing a frame up build is that the supplies will initially be limited.
    My source tells me if you order today Frames are 2-3 weeks away and once theyíve sold out itíll be a few months before there available again.

    Almost all frames are being dedicated to complete builds.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    One thing about anyone thatís considering doing a frame up build is that the supplies will initially be limited.
    My source tells me if you order today Frames are 2-3 weeks away and once theyíve sold out itíll be a few months before there available again.

    Almost all frames are being dedicated to complete builds.
    I was actually told by Comp Cyclist "chat" tech they didn't even know when they would receive frames. I probably wouldn't be building one til ~March-April anyways.
    In serving the wicked, expect no reward, and be thankful if you escape injury for your pains.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Would be this right?
    https://www.backcountry.com/fox-raci...AaAu8SEALw_wcB

    Would you need 1 or 2 of these?
    If we did get a fork, it has to be 44mm offset right?
    Yes, that is the correct airshaft youíd buy to travel reduce a 160mm Grip2 Fork. Youíd only need 1

    I would certainly only buy the 44mm offset fork because itís what the new geometry is designed around. Iíve ridden 51mm forks before and I notice an improvement on really slack bikes with long WB numbers and steeper STA because you get better front wheel traction and I like the way the bike turns both high speed and slow speed with the shorter offset

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stalkerfiveo View Post
    I was actually told by Comp Cyclist "chat" tech they didn't even know when they would receive frames. I probably wouldn't be building one til ~March-April anyways.
    You have plenty of time to plan for your build then. And maybe youíll find a smoking deal or the 27.5Ē bikes will be updated and you go that route.

    Call WWC or ProBike Supply and talk to them. I know if you put down the money today youíll get either the SB130 or SB150 frame in 2-3 weeks but once that first production run is sold itíll be a while

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Call WWC or ProBike Supply and talk to them. I know if you put down the money today youíll get either the SB130 or SB150 frame in 2-3 weeks but once that first production run is sold itíll be a while
    Yep, just saw the frame only option on WWC. They have a 5-14 day estimated wait listed on their site but allow you to buy (pre-order). Good info to have. I am probably 6 months out from a build though. So no hurry.
    In serving the wicked, expect no reward, and be thankful if you escape injury for your pains.

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    Does anyone know if the carbon frames have the same graphics as the turq frames? In years past there has been a slight difference in the look, but I'm not seeing that anywhere.

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    Would running more fork sag on a 160 be the same as running a 150mm? What disadvantage towards performance with this method?

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    You have plenty of time to plan for your build then. And maybe youíll find a smoking deal or the 27.5Ē bikes will be updated and you go that route.

    Call WWC or ProBike Supply and talk to them. I know if you put down the money today youíll get either the SB130 or SB150 frame in 2-3 weeks but once that first production run is sold itíll be a while
    Pro bike supply is my local shop and I buy a lot from them. I have a large turquoise on order and they told me that full builds will arrive in early October and frame only orders are expected in mid to late October. I trust those guys as theyíre a big yeti dealer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wooly88 View Post
    Pro bike supply is my local shop and I buy a lot from them. I have a large turquoise on order and they told me that full builds will arrive in early October and frame only orders are expected in mid to late October. I trust those guys as theyíre a big yeti dealer.
    When did you order? My LBS was expecting my bike to ship yesterday so I was hoping to have it by the end of the week....
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by Stalkerfiveo View Post
    Hmmm. Is 52.5 stroke new? I have seen 210x50 and 210x55.

    My main reason for asking is I have a 210x55 coil already. I am strongly interested in buying a frame only and swapping all my stuff over. The only thing I would need is a BB and a new 44mm offset lower for my Ribbon coil.

    The 52.5 stroke sounds like it might be an issue though.
    Using the 55 stroke would increase travel from 130mm to 136mm. Not sure if this would cause any issues, but many riders long-shocked their Hightowers successfully.

    I nominate you to try this out and report back ASAP

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    This is exactly what I've done for every bike I own. I buy the frame separate. For instance you can deal with WWC, PB Supply, BC/CC or Jenson and either get 10% off the frame price if you ask nicely or they will give you store credit towards parts or other items.

    Then I scour PB or Ebay and work on finding New Takeoffs or overstock OEM parts the save me 30-50% MSRP.

    Lastly companies like WWC, Pro Bike Supply and Universal Cycle have discount codes that pop up from time to time and can save you from 10-20% off new parts.

    In the end you pay no sales tax with free shipping and build the bike exactly how you wan't it. People will still buy complete bikes or support there local bike shop which is great but there are other alternatives to building a dream bike for 2k-3k less than what the Factory builds cost.

    It just takes time and patience but it's a fun experience doing it this way.
    I do the same with Bikesale.com (Bothell Ski and Bike in Seattle). Frame is at MSRP, but all the components are basically at their cost, so 15% to 20% off of retail and no shipping, no tax. My last build with them was over $2k less than the LBS total cost would have been. Really good customer service as well.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stalkerfiveo View Post
    Hmmm. Is 52.5 stroke new? I have seen 210x50 and 210x55.

    My main reason for asking is I have a 210x55 coil already. I am strongly interested in buying a frame only and swapping all my stuff over. The only thing I would need is a BB and a new 44mm offset lower for my Ribbon coil.

    The 52.5 stroke sounds like it might be an issue though.
    Not sure if it's new or not, just got it from the SB130 SetUP page on Yetis site.

    SB130 settings for: Weight 175 lbs, Height 5' 7''

    Front Fork:
    Model: FOX FLOAT 36 150MM FACTORY FIT4
    SAG PRESSURE: 71 PSI
    3-POS SWITCH: 1 -Open
    Low Speed Compression: 19 Clicks
    Rebound: 10 Clicks

    Rear Shock:
    Model: FOX FLOAT DPX2 210 X 52.5 FACTORY SERIES
    SAG PRESSURE: 211 PSI
    3-POS SWITCH: 1 -Open
    low speed compression: 7 Clicks
    REBOUND: 10 Clicks

    Front Tire:
    Model: MAXXIS MINION DHF 2.5
    PRESSURE: 25 PSI

    Rear Tire:
    Model: MAXXIS AGGRESSOR 2.3
    PRESSURE: 27 PSI
    Yeti SB130 Turq
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  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Would running more fork sag on a 160 be the same as running a 150mm? What disadvantage towards performance with this method?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Youíll lose small bump compliance because youíll be further down the progression curve. For this reason Fox doesnít recommend.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by makersmike View Post
    Using the 55 stroke would increase travel from 130mm to 136mm. Not sure if this would cause any issues, but many riders long-shocked their Hightowers successfully.

    I nominate you to try this out and report back ASAP
    I long shocked my SB5 from 130mm to 140mm and loved it. But several people had already done it and confirmed it worked. Hopefully someone will install a 210x55 on a 130 and post their results before I build mine. Haha
    In serving the wicked, expect no reward, and be thankful if you escape injury for your pains.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlloyd007 View Post
    I do the same with Bikesale.com (Bothell Ski and Bike in Seattle). Frame is at MSRP, but all the components are basically at their cost, so 15% to 20% off of retail and no shipping, no tax. My last build with them was over $2k less than the LBS total cost would have been. Really good customer service as well.
    I just checked them out, they dont have much though? No eagle groupsets, brakes, etc.

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    I just checked them out, they dont have much though? No eagle groupsets, brakes, etc.
    They have everything, you just need to call them.

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    Thx mlloyd.

    Bannerman. Those tire pressures seem kinda high for the 30mm id rim.

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  94. #94
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    I thought so too. Maybe I'm too fat.
    Yeti SB130 Turq
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  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    I thought so too. Maybe I'm too fat.
    Nah, those sound about right to me.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    I thought so too. Maybe I'm too fat.
    I am 6'-3" and weigh about 215 geared up. With 30mm ID wheels I run 21psi on DHF 29x2.5 front and 28psi on Aggressor 29x2.3 rear. I rarely rim strike.
    In serving the wicked, expect no reward, and be thankful if you escape injury for your pains.

  97. #97
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    Which spec did you order Bannerman?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    When did you order? My LBS was expecting my bike to ship yesterday so I was hoping to have it by the end of the week....

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    When did you order? My LBS was expecting my bike to ship yesterday so I was hoping to have it by the end of the week....
    Ordered yesterday.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryano4u View Post
    Which spec did you order Bannerman?
    X01, I felt it was the best value. I'd rather have XT brakes than the Guides, my RSCs kinda suck on my Niner. Cassette will be replaced when it wears out and by I'll prob put I9 wheels and hubs on anyway since they are local(ish) to me.
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  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by wooly88 View Post
    Ordered yesterday.
    Ok, I ordered 8/30 and it sounded like stock was going to be pretty low by drop day(yesterday).
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  101. #101
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    Awesome man.. I was told Mid to Late October on an X01 build.. You got lucky! Can get a race but like you, don't want all that and don't need it. Looking at a frame build up like Bex said.. Having a hard time finding the fork.. Any suggestions?

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Ok, I ordered 8/30 and it sounded like stock was going to be pretty low by drop day(yesterday).
    Nice. I wasnít even planning on ordering but once it was launched I couldnít help myself.

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlloyd007 View Post
    Youíll lose small bump compliance because youíll be further down the progression curve. For this reason Fox doesnít recommend.
    Actually, this would likely work nicely with a Vorsprung Luftkappe. That piston tends to sit about 8-10mm lower in the travel so you're ride height would be pretty close to OE, if not spot on. It's also much, much smoother...

  104. #104
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    Redbarn,
    Are you saying get the 160mm with a vorsprung luftkappe and it will be like a 150mm to maintain the original geometry? That would be a neat trick. A new airshaft isnt expensive but its great for those who like to tinker.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  105. #105
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    Here is a very broad hypothetical. What would be the better choice in your guys' opinions. Going with a carbon series GX build, maybe upgrade one or two components like the brakes, and add a pair of I9's with carbon rims. Or go with a turq XO and aluminum I9's with no other upgrades?

    Carbon wheels vs slightly better spec and factory suspension?

    It seems the only major difference between factory and performance is the kashima coat. Weight and adjustments I believe are the same. Kashima sure looks sexy though.

    The XO in this scenario will still be more expensive but it's not a huge gap with carbon wheels and a few other upgrades to the GX. I'm curious to hear others' opinions on which would have the most real world benefit. Better wheels or the better overall components. I've never ridden carbon wheels so I don't know how great the improvement might be.

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by swade View Post
    Here is a very broad hypothetical. What would be the better choice in your guys' opinions. Going with a carbon series GX build, maybe upgrade one or two components like the brakes, and add a pair of I9's with carbon rims. Or go with a turq XO and aluminum I9's with no other upgrades?

    Carbon wheels vs slightly better spec and factory suspension?

    It seems the only major difference between factory and performance is the kashima coat. Weight and adjustments I believe are the same. Kashima sure looks sexy though.

    The XO in this scenario will still be more expensive but it's not a huge gap with carbon wheels and a few other upgrades to the GX. I'm curious to hear others' opinions on which would have the most real world benefit. Better wheels or the better overall components. I've never ridden carbon wheels so I don't know how great the improvement might be.
    With Yeti and Santa Cruz itís a tougher decision because they have 2 different versions of carbon for the frame layup and although I myself wouldnít know the difference nor would it matter much there is no less a difference with a slight weight ď250 gramsĒ being one thing.

    Eagle GX is every bit a good as XO in regards to shifting and the weight is so negligible that the XO wouldnít sway me.

    The Factory Suspension is where the biggest difference is if your a hard charging rider and just having the extra adjustment will make a difference.


    As for wheels just because you might buy Carbon doesnít make them good wheels. Although I feel you did get the I9 Pillar Carbon Wheels they are legit and the couple people I know that ride them swear by them.

    Same goes for Aluminum and in many cases Aluminum are better suited for many riders although the DT M1700 wheels are not the most durable nor very stiff because yeti spec 28h I believe.


    Iíd probably go Carbon GX with Carbon I9 wheels and Carbon bar and 4 piston brakes over the XO Turq

  107. #107
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    Geoff Kabush's bike check on pb has some nice pics of a black sb130 and orange fork. He rocks the 160mm. If it only changes the SA to 76.5 then I'd say its a keeper. My current bike is 64.9 and it exudes confidence.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  108. #108
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    Factory and Performance ELITE are the same except Kashima. You will notice a difference between Factory and Performance. I went X01 and will do I9s down the road.
    Quote Originally Posted by swade View Post
    Here is a very broad hypothetical. What would be the better choice in your guys' opinions. Going with a carbon series GX build, maybe upgrade one or two components like the brakes, and add a pair of I9's with carbon rims. Or go with a turq XO and aluminum I9's with no other upgrades?

    Carbon wheels vs slightly better spec and factory suspension?

    It seems the only major difference between factory and performance is the kashima coat. Weight and adjustments I believe are the same. Kashima sure looks sexy though.

    The XO in this scenario will still be more expensive but it's not a huge gap with carbon wheels and a few other upgrades to the GX. I'm curious to hear others' opinions on which would have the most real world benefit. Better wheels or the better overall components. I've never ridden carbon wheels so I don't know how great the improvement might be.

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post

    Iíd probably go Carbon GX with Carbon I9 wheels and Carbon bar and 4 piston brakes over the XO Turq
    Those are actually the two components I would change, carbon bar and 4 piston xt's.

    If I go carbon wheels, I'm really liking the look of the Ibis 942 rims. They can be laced to I9 hubs.

  110. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Factory and Performance ELITE are the same except Kashima. You will notice a difference between Factory and Performance. I went X01 and will do I9s down the road.
    So is there a Performance and a Performance Elite line? I thought there was just Factory and Performance.

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post


    As for wheels just because you might buy Carbon doesnít make them good wheels. Although I feel you did get the I9 Pillar Carbon Wheels they are legit and the couple people I know that ride them swear by them.

    Same goes for Aluminum and in many cases Aluminum are better suited for many riders although the DT M1700 wheels are not the most durable nor very stiff because yeti spec 28h I believe.
    I've been riding I9's (aluminum) on my last two bikes, and I don't think I'll ever ride anything else but I9's again. Adding Carbon rims is the only temptation. I just don't know how much of a difference in performance it truly is.

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by swade View Post
    I've been riding I9's (aluminum) on my last two bikes, and I don't think I'll ever ride anything else but I9's again. Adding Carbon rims is the only temptation. I just don't know how much of a difference in performance it truly is.
    That will be a very niice build but just be aware about rear tire clearance on that SB130 frame as we are yet to get any real world reports about how much room exists back there for tire clearance. I know those Ibis hoops are really high quality but be realistic about what rear tire profile and size and volume youíd like.

    If your going to stick with 2.4Ēs in the back Iíd stay with a 30mm Iíd wheel and there are plenty of great choices.

  113. #113
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    What Size?

    I'd like some insights into sizing as well.

    I am 5'10.5" - currently ride a size Medium SB66c that is spec'd with a 160mm Fox Talas 36 fork and a Float X rear shock. 50mm stem. 800mm bars. Absolutely love it.

    However, it's just starting to feel a little dated, and my riding priorities have shifted somewhat since I built that bike.

    TBH I'm a little nervous the sb130 wont be enough bike and the sb150 will be too much. But forget that for now, pretend I've fully decided on the sb130.

    I'm in Utah. When I got the bike in 2013 I was probably shuttling DH trails 35% of the time and riding singletrack 65% of the time.

    Have been planning an upgrade for 2 years now and have spent a considerable amount of time on Yeti demos.

    I'm still in Utah but my riding has shifted. I know race a couple Enduros a year. I may shuttle DH trails 5% of the time. I'm climbing much more often (sometimes linking this DH trails I used to shuttle) and overall riding longer distances. However, I haven't stopped riding DH trails, I just don't really shuttle them anymore.

    So lets pretend I've settled on the SB130.

    I recently demoed the SB5 LR in a size large and liked everything about the size except the standover felt SLIGHTLY too tall (I have a slightly longer torso but slightly shorter arms and legs than average) and descending didn't feel quite as playful (which could have been a function of only riding the bike for 2 hours)

    I also demoed a size SB5.5 and liked the size, but felt I could go slightly larger.

    My SB66 feels good descending, but feels like it could be a touch longer when climbing.

    I also demoed an SB6 in a L and M and liked both sizes. Liked the extra room to spread out on the L for climbing, but the M felt more at home (likely due to my SB66 being roughly the same size).

    I've also demoed the Bronson V2 in a size Large and really liked its size. Also liked the size of the Hightower LT in a size Large, but didn't really like the bike much.

    Anyway - I've created a spreadsheet comparing all of these bikes on paper.

    From the look of it, comparing the SB66C to the SB130, the Size Medium SB66C is:

    Toptube: Closer to Large on SB130
    SeatTube: Closer to Large on SB130
    Wheelbase: Closer to M on SB130, but this bike will feel longer regardless.
    Standover: Closer to M on SB130 (but even the L SB130 is only 0.1 inches taller and significantly lower than the SB5 LR)
    Stack: Closer to M on SB130, but difference between M and L is negligible on the SB130 here
    Reach: Closer to SB130, but this bike will feel longer regardless.

    Comparing a L SB5 LR to the SB130, the size L SB5 LR is:

    Toptube: 0.2" longer than the L SB130
    Seatube: 2.2" longer than the L SB130
    Wheelbase: 0.3" shorter than the M SB130
    Standover: 0.6" taller than the L SB130 and 0.7" taller than the M
    Stack: 0.2" greater than the L SB130
    Reach: 1.6" shorter than the M SB130 - the number that concerns me the most.

    All of this is to say - I am heavily leaning towards the L in the SB130, but am concerned about the Reach numbers. Haven't ever ridden a bike with this much Reach, but in every other way it seems fairly comparable to the L SB5 LR which I generally liked.

    My hunch is that I am in between sizes enough that I will be fine either way I go, and I've always thought that when you are climbing a lot its better to go up rather than down - HOWEVER since the M on the SB130 is so close in every way to my SB66 EXCEPT the longer reach number, I wonder if that will be enough to make the bike feel exceptional for downhill but give me that extra length for climbing that I described I am looking for above.

    Any insights, especially from those of you that have ridden some longer reach bikes lately would be great.



    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-capture.png

  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Redbarn,
    Are you saying get the 160mm with a vorsprung luftkappe and it will be like a 150mm to maintain the original geometry? That would be a neat trick. A new airshaft isnt expensive but its great for those who like to tinker.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Kind of, yeah, at least it's going the direction you're talking about. The Luftkappe does a couple things 1) right-sizes the air piston to reduce friction and 2) adds a ton of negative spring volume.

    When I did my '18 160 36, the net result was unweighted static position (with bike weight only) about 8mm lower than the stock piston. I had a 150mm air shaft all lined up and decided I didn't need to use it (was looking to sharpen up the SB 5.5). Apparently some folks add a spacer under the stem to compensate after settling in.

    The other net result was the fork just plain worked better. No spacers, yet more progressive, buttery on little stuff & plenty support on big stuff. You can't be mental about using full travel with this setup. The ~145mm you actually get will be worlds better than the 160mm you might have had . Add it to a Grip2 and I'm guessing it would be dreamy...

    https://vorsprungsuspension.com/coll...appe-fox-34-36

    Big thread about "sticky" 36's here, lots of Luftkappe love there. It costs more than an air shaft, but IMHO works much better.

  115. #115
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    Thx for that feedback. Ive had vorsprung evol before and worked nicely.

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  116. #116
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    https://youtu.be/8I1A4u1KZLA

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  117. #117
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    I really like my ibis, but this bike looks ideal for my mid Atlantic east coast trails


    Ibis Ripley LS x01 Factory

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    2017 Ibis Ripley LS Factory X01

  118. #118
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    You keep linking these videos like youíre the only one with google.

  119. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    You keep linking these videos like youíre the only one with google.
    I don't mind people linking videos here because it save me time to search for them and I can watch them after work by just scrolling through the pages here.

  120. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    You keep linking these videos like youíre the only one with google.


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  121. #121
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    I also am extremely happy with my luftkappe 2016 fox 36.. I agree with the above performance statement.. 215lbs,.no tokens, and no hsc just lsc and works amazing on my sb6c...

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  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    https://youtu.be/8I1A4u1KZLA

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    At 00:33 he calls the SB130 the new SB5.5.............um nope.......new 4.5. Surprised Jenson got that wrong.

  123. #123
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    Actually no. The 130 is perceived and touted as a 5.5 replacement. Given the slacker head angle, intended purpose and that it comes with a 36.

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  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seagrave View Post
    At 00:33 he calls the SB130 the new SB5.5.............um nope.......new 4.5. Surprised Jenson got that wrong.
    SB130 is indeed the replacement of SB55. This was specifically mentioned in an interview with a Yeti rep who is quite high up.

  125. #125
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    SB130 replacing the SB4.5
    SB150 replacing the SB5.5

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    That will be a very niice build but just be aware about rear tire clearance on that SB130 frame as we are yet to get any real world reports about how much room exists back there for tire clearance. I know those Ibis hoops are really high quality but be realistic about what rear tire profile and size and volume youíd like.

    If your going to stick with 2.4Ēs in the back Iíd stay with a 30mm Iíd wheel and there are plenty of great choices.
    Iím definitely waiting to see what size tires and rims will really fit in the rear. I have read reviews that say 2.5 WT will fit. And Yeti says 2.5. But will it fit a 2.5 WT with a 35mm ID rim or just 30 mm? This is probably the main thing that will decide whether it will be a 130 or a Ripmo for me.

    In this review there are some closeups of the rear clearance and it looks like thereís substantial room to spare with the stock 2.3.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UWAK_g4Lr28

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seagrave View Post


    SB130 replacing the SB4.5
    SB150 replacing the SB5.5
    Conversion...
    130mm/24.5mm=5.11 inches.
    100mm/24.5mm=3.94 inches.

    Not that I care that there has to be a direct 1 to 1 replacement of previous models or does it even matter? - haha...but I had a few drinks and MTBR is where you spew random thoughts that your brain synapses identify -!

    In my opinion, SB100 seems more related to the 4.5 replacement, the SB130 be the 5.5 replacement, and the SB150 is just new beast on the block.

    However, I really think that the SB100 is the 4.5 replacements and Yeti split the 5.5 replacement to a SB130 and a SB150mm.

    Regardless - it always fun to discuss bikes and mtbr is great for this! and more importantly I am looking forward to my SB130 whenever it arrives, it seems badass and fun!

    Cheers!

  128. #128
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    They're both new bikes and they're both not a replacement anything. I'm sure the folks at Yeti would tell you the same.

  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seagrave View Post
    At 00:33 he calls the SB130 the new SB5.5.............um nope.......new 4.5. Surprised Jenson got that wrong.
    Yetiís president refers to the SB130 as the new SB5.5 in the press release.

  130. #130
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    ďThe SB130 replaces one of our most popular bikes Ė the SB5.5,Ē said Yeti president, Chris Conroy. ďWe updated the geometry, kinematics and created a bike that rules in the high country.Ē

    https://www.google.com/amp/s/mbactio...uces-new-sb130

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    Obviously there aren't many people that have been on this bike yet, but I'm just curious for the ones who have already purchased. Do you have real world info about how this bike rides? Or really which previous bike it's more like (although seems like it's more 5.5 from what I've read)? Are you basing it on riding the SB150 and liking it, but wanting something a little less? Is this like an IPhone where you just auto update to the latest one every year?

    This is a serious question, not a knock. Am really excited about this bike, but am not dropping $8k on a geometry chart. The reviews out so far are pretty light on details and mostly from the companies trying to sell this bike. Anyways, hope you guys get your builds soon so we can hear more about the performance side of this thread!

  132. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcusick View Post
    Obviously there aren't many people that have been on this bike yet, but I'm just curious for the ones who have already purchased. Do you have real world info about how this bike rides? Or really which previous bike it's more like (although seems like it's more 5.5 from what I've read)? Are you basing it on riding the SB150 and liking it, but wanting something a little less? Is this like an IPhone where you just auto update to the latest one every year?

    This is a serious question, not a knock. Am really excited about this bike, but am not dropping $8k on a geometry chart. The reviews out so far are pretty light on details and mostly from the companies trying to sell this bike. Anyways, hope you guys get your builds soon so we can hear more about the performance side of this thread!
    This...
    I plan on testing this at Outerbike in Bentonville. It is on my list of bikes that I am interested in purchasing.

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcusick View Post
    Obviously there aren't many people that have been on this bike yet, but I'm just curious for the ones who have already purchased. Do you have real world info about how this bike rides? Or really which previous bike it's more like (although seems like it's more 5.5 from what I've read)? Are you basing it on riding the SB150 and liking it, but wanting something a little less? Is this like an IPhone where you just auto update to the latest one every year?

    This is a serious question, not a knock. Am really excited about this bike, but am not dropping $8k on a geometry chart. The reviews out so far are pretty light on details and mostly from the companies trying to sell this bike. Anyways, hope you guys get your builds soon so we can hear more about the performance side of this thread!
    I ordered on 8/30. I have been looking at bikes for several months trying to decide what I wanted. Really liked the Speed Balanced Geometry or whatever they call it on the Smuggler, but I am not a fan of the rear linkage (Horst I think?). I love the way the Yetis pedal though, have ridden Sb5LR and SB4.5. Came down to 4.5(didn't love the slack STA) or the Smuggler. Then Yeti announced this bike and it seems like the best of both worlds, Geo is very close to smuggler, and still (hopefully) pedals the way I like.

    Additionally, and hopefully this does not come off as an asshole but honest question deserves an honest response, dropping $8k feels different depending on if you make $80k or $280k.
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  134. #134
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    Sizing is my concern. The reach figure makes you think this has a long cockpit. I always have a hard time with sizing due to having short legs. It is great that the seat tube is now much shorter.

    So after looking at the geo, I draw it up in CAD (Medium) and also drew my current bike (Medium 2016 Canyon Nerve). I was shocked to find that the distance from my seated position between to two is 35mm less on the Yeti. I'm not sure how I feel about that. I already run my saddle slammed right back. In fact, the bar position in relation to the bottom bracket is pretty much the same (Canyon has an 80mm stem).

    I might have to consider the Large, but this will just reduce the dropper length I can use (125mm will be a push), so I'd have to swap out the 150mm that comes with it. Plus, the wheelbase is getting even longer and I'm not that big, so it could become a handful for me. Plus, even a large would still be 10mm shorter (from bum to hands) than my current bike.

    My CADing included stem lengths, crank length (I currently run 170mm verses the 175mm on the SB130), so all factors apart from bar dimensions are accounted for (bars can be changed).

    Ultimately, the steep seat tube is what makes things so short. Granted that this may be great for climbing, but what about flat single-track? Out of the saddle it would be much the same position as my current bike.

    Maybe I just sit on my current bike wrong? I'm going to slide the saddle forward 35mm for the next ride and see if this is actually better. I doubt it though, I'll probably have to go for a large.

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcusick View Post
    Obviously there aren't many people that have been on this bike yet, but I'm just curious for the ones who have already purchased. Do you have real world info about how this bike rides? Or really which previous bike it's more like (although seems like it's more 5.5 from what I've read)? Are you basing it on riding the SB150 and liking it, but wanting something a little less? Is this like an IPhone where you just auto update to the latest one every year?

    This is a serious question, not a knock. Am really excited about this bike, but am not dropping $8k on a geometry chart. The reviews out so far are pretty light on details and mostly from the companies trying to sell this bike. Anyways, hope you guys get your builds soon so we can hear more about the performance side of this thread!
    I agree. I also agree with Bannerman and think he'll love the bike. It's funny. I had about ruled out the bike due to the 29 pound final weight (I have an SB5 that, at 26.5 pounds with 2.6" tires - my wife's SB5 is 25 and change) is a climbing machine. I am not a fan of Yeti builds, but love the frame designs, so have custom built them (I'm more of a climber than a descender). I complained about the weight of the SB130 to my blushing bride of almost 40 years and she said...."Just throw money at it. I bet you can get it down to 27 pounds!" BINGO....it's back in the running! But i'm gonna sit on it first!

  136. #136
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    I feel you. I don't make no where near that much but I have a few "friends" to rag me about the $$ price of bikes.. Then I turn around and rag them about their bass boat (35k+).. Shuts them up pretty fast.. lol... Its a matter of what you love.. They take their bass boat out maybe once a week.. I ride 4 to 5 times a week.. Plus it keeps me moving

    Bannerman -Additionally, and hopefully this does not come off as an asshole but honest question deserves an honest response, dropping $8k feels different depending on if you make $80k or $280k.

  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    Sizing is my concern. The reach figure makes you think this has a long cockpit. I always have a hard time with sizing due to having short legs. It is great that the seat tube is now much shorter.

    So after looking at the geo, I draw it up in CAD (Medium) and also drew my current bike (Medium 2016 Canyon Nerve). I was shocked to find that the distance from my seated position between to two is 35mm less on the Yeti. I'm not sure how I feel about that. I already run my saddle slammed right back. In fact, the bar position in relation to the bottom bracket is pretty much the same (Canyon has an 80mm stem).

    I might have to consider the Large, but this will just reduce the dropper length I can use (125mm will be a push), so I'd have to swap out the 150mm that comes with it. Plus, the wheelbase is getting even longer and I'm not that big, so it could become a handful for me. Plus, even a large would still be 10mm shorter (from bum to hands) than my current bike.

    My CADing included stem lengths, crank length (I currently run 170mm verses the 175mm on the SB130), so all factors apart from bar dimensions are accounted for (bars can be changed).

    Ultimately, the steep seat tube is what makes things so short. Granted that this may be great for climbing, but what about flat single-track? Out of the saddle it would be much the same position as my current bike.

    Maybe I just sit on my current bike wrong? I'm going to slide the saddle forward 35mm for the next ride and see if this is actually better. I doubt it though, I'll probably have to go for a large.
    I did exactly the same thing and decided to get the 4.5 for this very reason, as well as the fact that the 4.5 frame weighs 1.5 lbs. less.

    On another subject, has anyone noticed how very similar the SB130 is to the Pivot 5.5?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-b.jpg  


  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by swade View Post
    Iím definitely waiting to see what size tires and rims will really fit in the rear. I have read reviews that say 2.5 WT will fit. And Yeti says 2.5. But will it fit a 2.5 WT with a 35mm ID rim or just 30 mm? This is probably the main thing that will decide whether it will be a 130 or a Ripmo for me.

    In this review there are some closeups of the rear clearance and it looks like thereís substantial room to spare with the stock 2.3.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UWAK_g4Lr28
    Just for shits and grins I ran my Evil Following V2 wheelset on the SB100 which had Nox Kitsumas (36mm internal) and a Maxxis Rekon 2.4wt in the rear and the clearance was good, so one should hope the SB130 is capable to run the same or wider.
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  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlloyd007 View Post
    On another subject, has anyone noticed how very similar the SB130 is to the Pivot 5.5?
    Yep: both have two wheels, handlebars, and a Fox fork. Other than that: no.

  140. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by smartyiak View Post
    Yep: both have two wheels, handlebars, and a Fox fork. Other than that: no.
    You forgot about that Switch Infinity on the Pivot... oh wait, yeah, doesn't have it. After seeing them in person, there is no concern that they "appear" similar to other bikes. Both look and feel like beautiful Yetis in hand.

  141. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    I ordered on 8/30. I have been looking at bikes for several months trying to decide what I wanted. Really liked the Speed Balanced Geometry or whatever they call it on the Smuggler, but I am not a fan of the rear linkage (Horst I think?). I love the way the Yetis pedal though, have ridden Sb5LR and SB4.5. Came down to 4.5(didn't love the slack STA) or the Smuggler. Then Yeti announced this bike and it seems like the best of both worlds, Geo is very close to smuggler, and still (hopefully) pedals the way I like.

    Additionally, and hopefully this does not come off as an asshole but honest question deserves an honest response, dropping $8k feels different depending on if you make $80k or $280k.
    Fair enough. My hope is that this falls between the 4.5 and 5.5 as far as peddling and fun. If I hear that, will just have my paycheck direct deposited in yetis bank account and switch to team turquoise.

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  142. #142
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    Anyone got a frame weight?

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    Maybe I just sit on my current bike wrong? I'm going to slide the saddle forward 35mm for the next ride and see if this is actually better. I doubt it though, I'll probably have to go for a large.
    I wonder about this. How tall are you and why is your seat slammed all the way back on your Nerve? The toptube length is shorter on your Nerve, so all of the cockpit difference must be in the stem length. What are you using for reference on the SB130 in CAD? I'd say going to the large with a 125mm dropper limitation is a huge compromise and you'd be better off adapting your body position on the medium SB130.

  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    I wonder about this. How tall are you and why is your seat slammed all the way back on your Nerve? The toptube length is shorter on your Nerve, so all of the cockpit difference must be in the stem length. What are you using for reference on the SB130 in CAD? I'd say going to the large with a 125mm dropper limitation is a huge compromise and you'd be better off adapting your body position on the medium SB130.
    Iím 5í9Ē but short legs, so torso is longer than average. My height puts me in the middle of the medium size range (175cm) for the SB150.

    Next ride will be with the saddle 35mm forward and the bars 15mm higher. This should replicate the SB150 (medium) ride position exactly (although not the ride!). Iím going to make the adjustments tonight.

    Maybe Iíve been spending to much time on my commuter road bike and got used to a more aero position.

  145. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by expatrider View Post
    Anyone got a frame weight?
    Someone posted the SB150 around 7.11 lbs for a size large w/the axle..........guessing the SB130 in same size and Turq build to be around 6.6-6.7 lbs. That lifetime warranty and water bottle in frame provisions must have added some weight to these latest models.
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  146. #146
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    I'm 5'9" and am getting my large Knolly Fugitive frame next week. The Knolly's geometry is pretty close to the 130 in large so I would definitely go large with Yeti. The one thing that kept me away from Yeti was their short reach. Not everyone likes modern so I suggest demoing before dropping that kind of cash. My HT has 470mm with a higher stack so Yeti's 480mm is right in my ballpark. I have a 160mm Revive that will fit with my sump legs, and love to see shorter seat tubes.
    Formerly Travis Bickle

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  147. #147
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    I've had 6 Yetis and soon to be 7th will be same size.. I have always just followed Yeti size chart..size XL.

    6"4 34" inseam

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  148. #148
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    Formerly Travis Bickle

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  149. #149
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    Just a heads up for any Forum members doing a build I have a set of TRP Gspec 4 piston brakes NIB for $285 shipped and a NIB Eagle GX 4pc Drivetrain...Cassette, R. Der, Shifter and Chain for $375.

    Or both for $650
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  150. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    I wish I had the balls to do that with an XL 5.5. With my inseam I couldn't run a 150 dropper on an XL frame and have it be fully extended so I got a L. Love the 5.5 but really want to try out the longer reach on my next bike.

  151. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSU Alum View Post
    I agree. I also agree with Bannerman and think he'll love the bike. It's funny. I had about ruled out the bike due to the 29 pound final weight (I have an SB5 that, at 26.5 pounds with 2.6" tires - my wife's SB5 is 25 and change) is a climbing machine. I am not a fan of Yeti builds, but love the frame designs, so have custom built them (I'm more of a climber than a descender). I complained about the weight of the SB130 to my blushing bride of almost 40 years and she said...."Just throw money at it. I bet you can get it down to 27 pounds!" BINGO....it's back in the running! But i'm gonna sit on it first!
    I think the SB130 will be a fantastic bike for your area of the world.
    Carpe Diem!!

  152. #152
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    Not sure if the frame weight question has been answered... (not sure of this frame size, either):

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-basecampcyclery130.jpg

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSU Alum View Post
    I'm guessing that's without pedals.
    On the Yeti site, they list this build at 28.9 lbs but they don't mention the size. The XO1 Race is listed at 29.8 lbs, so something doesn't seem right.
    (As 123ski mentioned, looks like a 170 fork listed).

    I expect this bike will be perfect for some....just not me.

    It's a 29 pound bike with a 65.5 HTA.....for $$$$$$$
    It looks like another downhill oriented trail bike that "climbs well for (fill in the blank)".
    hey I'm new here. I've been an Ibis guy for some time. mojo SL then Mojo 3 werx build. they run smaller in their sizes and that's been an issue and I found I could ride a ripley LS V3 large and it felt great, climbs like a race car and it's pretty solid on mid level chunky stuff. (I'm getting the the Yeti part . I was pretty sure moving to a size large top end build would be great on the Ripley and upgrading the fork to a 140mm would make it a bit more all mountain (like me Ibis Mojo 3 = 140 Pike up front, 130 Fox rear). Then I started to take my time and watched every thing on the bible of bikes, looking into the Evil Following MB, then this bike dropped 2 days ago and my head is spinning! and i started thinking this might be better suited for me (I need to demo it). Being new to Yeti, I've done some research on the SB 100, the SB 4.5 and now the SB 130. curious if any of you guys have an opinion on the Ripley w/ a 140 fork, Evil MB (yet to ride) and now this new 130. I think the 100 is too CC for me. The 130 may climb well but as you said (relative to what?). I'm an north east rider, I like to ride fast and do some fun stuff in Vermont at Kindom trails on Burke Mountain which is can be pretty aggressive. I realize until I ride the other bikes (which will all be bigger than my current medium, fixing that issue) I won't really know. But i've watched the entire internet over the last 3 weeks and found this thread so I thought i'd drop in. thanks in advance.

  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmgold View Post
    hey I'm new here. I've been an Ibis guy for some time. mojo SL then Mojo 3 werx build. they run smaller in their sizes and that's been an issue and I found I could ride a ripley LS V3 large and it felt great, climbs like a race car and it's pretty solid on mid level chunky stuff. (I'm getting the the Yeti part . I was pretty sure moving to a size large top end build would be great on the Ripley and upgrading the fork to a 140mm would make it a bit more all mountain (like me Ibis Mojo 3 = 140 Pike up front, 130 Fox rear). Then I started to take my time and watched every thing on the bible of bikes, looking into the Evil Following MB, then this bike dropped 2 days ago and my head is spinning! and i started thinking this might be better suited for me (I need to demo it). Being new to Yeti, I've done some research on the SB 100, the SB 4.5 and now the SB 130. curious if any of you guys have an opinion on the Ripley w/ a 140 fork, Evil MB (yet to ride) and now this new 130. I think the 100 is too CC for me. The 130 may climb well but as you said (relative to what?). I'm an north east rider, I like to ride fast and do some fun stuff in Vermont at Kindom trails on Burke Mountain which is can be pretty aggressive. I realize until I ride the other bikes (which will all be bigger than my current medium, fixing that issue) I won't really know. But i've watched the entire internet over the last 3 weeks and found this thread so I thought i'd drop in. thanks in advance.
    Nmgold welcome. I'm in the same boat. I rode the Ripley ls and sb4.5 and found the Ripley sluggish in comparison to the 4.5 but found the Ripley to be much more fun on the down. I am hoping that the sb130 is close to the 4.5 on the up and close to the Ripley on the down.

    Im in VT as well but do a bit more technical up and downs in Hinesburg. If I rode kingdom I'd be looking hard at the SB100 but coming off mojo 3 I'm not so sure you'd be the same.

    I just emailed yeti to ask them how the bike climbs in comparison to 4.5/5.5 and will post here if I hear anything.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcusick View Post
    Nmgold welcome. I'm in the same boat. I rode the Ripley ls and sb4.5 and found the Ripley sluggish in comparison to the 4.5 but found the Ripley to be much more fun on the down. I am hoping that the sb130 is close to the 4.5 on the up and close to the Ripley on the down.

    Im in VT as well but do a bit more technical up and downs in Hinesburg. If I rode kingdom I'd be looking hard at the SB100 but coming off mojo 3 I'm not so sure you'd be the same.

    I just emailed yeti to ask them how the bike climbs in comparison to 4.5/5.5 and will post here if I hear anything.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    thanks man! Wow the 4.5 climbed better for you than the ripley, that really encouraging because itís regarded as one hell of a climber. Looking forward to hearing what yeti comes back with. Thanks

  156. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmgold View Post
    hey I'm new here. I've been an Ibis guy for some time. mojo SL then Mojo 3 werx build. they run smaller in their sizes and that's been an issue and I found I could ride a ripley LS V3 large and it felt great, climbs like a race car and it's pretty solid on mid level chunky stuff. (I'm getting the the Yeti part . I was pretty sure moving to a size large top end build would be great on the Ripley and upgrading the fork to a 140mm would make it a bit more all mountain (like me Ibis Mojo 3 = 140 Pike up front, 130 Fox rear). Then I started to take my time and watched every thing on the bible of bikes, looking into the Evil Following MB, then this bike dropped 2 days ago and my head is spinning! and i started thinking this might be better suited for me (I need to demo it). Being new to Yeti, I've done some research on the SB 100, the SB 4.5 and now the SB 130. curious if any of you guys have an opinion on the Ripley w/ a 140 fork, Evil MB (yet to ride) and now this new 130. I think the 100 is too CC for me. The 130 may climb well but as you said (relative to what?). I'm an north east rider, I like to ride fast and do some fun stuff in Vermont at Kindom trails on Burke Mountain which is can be pretty aggressive. I realize until I ride the other bikes (which will all be bigger than my current medium, fixing that issue) I won't really know. But i've watched the entire internet over the last 3 weeks and found this thread so I thought i'd drop in. thanks in advance.
    I have owned the Evil Following MB. The bike is awesome and climbs very well. I set all my PR's on that bike which is crazy considering the other enduro bikes i have owned. I have only demo'd a Ripley so hard to really give a comparison. The thing that bothered me about the Evil was 1 I ran out of travel a lot, 2 the rear end flex was very noticeable, and 3 i felt under gunned a lot. The upside is that bike rides above its travel and is a rocket ship down if you can hold on.

    The good news I ride in Laguna where its steep, rocky and dry and you live in a completely different environment.

    It might be the perfect bike for you.

    My BIGGEST TURNOFF WITH THE NEW YETI'S IS THE PRICE. I would like to do a frame up build as the X01 is honestly a small fortune, but the 3500 plus tax is insane. I really want an SB150 which is 3800.

    I ride my bike 3-4 times a week, i make good money, but having 2 kids a wife and a family, makes the bike a really hard sell.

    The SB150 is 800.00 more than a Ripmo and 800.00 more than a carbon sentinel.

    Its just really hard to swallow.

    I know Yeti is a boutique bike brand but so are the others. I guess i could wait till one hits the used market and capitalize but then i don't get a warranty.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  157. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    I have owned the Evil Following MB. The bike is awesome and climbs very well. I set all my PR's on that bike which is crazy considering the other enduro bikes i have owned. I have only demo'd a Ripley so hard to really give a comparison. The thing that bothered me about the Evil was 1 I ran out of travel a lot, 2 the rear end flex was very noticeable, and 3 i felt under gunned a lot. The upside is that bike rides above its travel and is a rocket ship down if you can hold on.

    The good news I ride in Laguna where its steep, rocky and dry and you live in a completely different environment.

    It might be the perfect bike for you.

    My BIGGEST TURNOFF WITH THE NEW YETI'S IS THE PRICE. I would like to do a frame up build as the X01 is honestly a small fortune, but the 3500 plus tax is insane. I really want an SB150 which is 3800.

    I ride my bike 3-4 times a week, i make good money, but having 2 kids a wife and a family, makes the bike a really hard sell.

    The SB150 is 800.00 more than a Ripmo and 800.00 more than a carbon sentinel.

    Its just really hard to swallow.

    I know Yeti is a boutique bike brand but so are the others. I guess i could wait till one hits the used market and capitalize but then i don't get a warranty.
    You should be comparing the Ripmo to the SB130 for performance and Price. By all accounts the SB150 is in a completely different league for how that bike rides and my Ripmo is a Tweener bike thats Damn good at everything but great at nothing.

    I own a Ripmo and I have it at 28.5 pounds with Eagle, Magura, 36Grip2 and Carbon "We Are One" Wheels and I paid 6k.

    Although the frame is $3k you get a shitty DPX2 Performance shock so in reality if you want full adjustment which is a big deal for your rear suspension you have to pay an additional $300 for an X2 or Factory DPX2. *I feel the 10 click Compression adjustment on the DPX2 is a really important way to tune for big compression moments and G-outs.

    So now your Ibis frame is $3,300 and the SB130 is $3500 and I willing to say it's a better pedal platform and the way all Yeti bikes deal with Square edged hits make them incredible in rough terrain.

    I won't be buying an SB130 because if I get anything It'll be the SB150
    Yeti 2020 SB165
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  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    You should be comparing the Ripmo to the SB130 for performance and Price. By all accounts the SB150 is in a completely different league for how that bike rides and my Ripmo is a Tweener bike thats Damn good at everything but great at nothing.

    I own a Ripmo and I have it at 28.5 pounds with Eagle, Magura, 36Grip2 and Carbon "We Are One" Wheels and I paid 6k.

    Although the frame is $3k you get a shitty DPX2 Performance shock so in reality if you want full adjustment which is a big deal for your rear suspension you have to pay an additional $300 for an X2 or Factory DPX2. *I feel the 10 click Compression adjustment on the DPX2 is a really important way to tune for big compression moments and G-outs.

    So now your Ibis frame is $3,300 and the SB130 is $3500 and I willing to say it's a better pedal platform and the way all Yeti bikes deal with Square edged hits make them incredible in rough terrain.

    I won't be buying an SB130 because if I get anything It'll be the SB150
    The fact is i don't have to upgrade the shock right away, the pedal platform is good but no better than DW link, DW link is better on square edge hits IMO also.

    Yeti makes a great product, the bikes are top notch, but the pricing in this industry as a whole is just getting silly.

    That frame costs no more than 600.00 to make and that is high. The shock is probably 200.00 direct cost. What industry makes 300%+ profit, this is more a shot at all the bike companies.

    I don't give me this crap about molds, that is paid for very quickly.

    As carbon has gotten more common the price should have come DOWN. TV's are 1500.00 where as 15 years ago they were 15000.

    Oh and btw, 44 offset is a sham to make us all buy new forks.

    I love my bike, but i hate this industry.
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  159. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    The fact is i don't have to upgrade the shock right away, the pedal platform is good but no better than DW link, DW link is better on square edge hits IMO also.

    Yeti makes a great product, the bikes are top notch, but the pricing in this industry as a whole is just getting silly.

    That frame costs no more than 600.00 to make and that is high. The shock is probably 200.00 direct cost. What industry makes 300%+ profit, this is more a shot at all the bike companies.

    I don't give me this crap about molds, that is paid for very quickly.

    As carbon has gotten more common the price should have come DOWN. TV's are 1500.00 where as 15 years ago they were 15000.

    Oh and btw, 44 offset is a sham to make us all buy new forks.

    I love my bike, but i hate this industry.
    Many good points you make and I'll happily agree that pricing is ridiculous but thankfully this is my only hobby and passion and both my kids are grown now but it's absolutley bonkers to think about the markup especially if you want a complete high end boutique bike.

    I happen to be a bigger fan of DW Split Pivot, now that handles square edged hits better than any Ibis DW link as it's a slight variation. I still feel Switch Infinity is better but thats why we all have opinions.

    I disagree wholeheartedly about your take on the shorter offset forks. The entire Process of Steep STA, Increased Reach for Attack Position riding over the front wheel and the crazy slack HTA all work and the feeling to me is way more front end grip and traction without the front end feeling washy. Also better balance centered in the bike.

    Since almost all 29'ers are now coming with 44mm/42mm offset forks its not like you need to buy a new fork for your old bike. Just ride and enjoy. Soon enough Pole and the other holdouts will be doing the same thing just hopefully not Superboost which is 100% a sham and scam by Pivot, Knolly and Devinci. If you want DH bike spacing go get a DH bike and anything bigger than a 2.6" tire is a waste on a trail/Enduro bike.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Many good points you make and I'll happily agree that pricing is ridiculous but thankfully this is my only hobby and passion and both my kids are grown now but it's absolutley bonkers to think about the markup especially if you want a complete high end boutique bike.

    I happen to be a bigger fan of DW Split Pivot, now that handles square edged hits better than any Ibis DW link as it's a slight variation. I still feel Switch Infinity is better but thats why we all have opinions.

    I disagree wholeheartedly about your take on the shorter offset forks. The entire Process of Steep STA, Increased Reach for Attack Position riding over the front wheel and the crazy slack HTA all work and the feeling to me is way more front end grip and traction without the front end feeling washy. Also better balance centered in the bike.

    Since almost all 29'ers are now coming with 44mm/42mm offset forks its not like you need to buy a new fork for your old bike. Just ride and enjoy. Soon enough Pole and the other holdouts will be doing the same thing just hopefully not Superboost which is 100% a sham and scam by Pivot, Knolly and Devinci. If you want DH bike spacing go get a DH bike and anything bigger than a 2.6" tire is a waste on a trail/Enduro bike.
    funny because i ride a switchblade!!!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    funny because i ride a switchblade!!!!
    Amazing bike especially for the Southwest USA conditions it's just a shame about SB spacing although just like you mentioned above about how shit the bike industry can be soon enough all the bikes will be Super Boost so your just ahead of the curve.
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    Skinny, a question: I have the SB5 which Iíve spent a fair bit of money upgrading (ACS coil, DPX2 shock etc). Looks like the 130 will be an amazing bike but I am reluctant to blow that kind of money. My main plan was to get the new SB5 (SB145?) frame when it comes out but Iím starting to wonder if 29er bikes just flat out outperform 27.5 these days... ie, should I just take the pain and make the switch? I note that lots of my trails are tight switchbacks where bigger wheels might not be such a big advantage. Iím running 2.6 inch tires which I love. Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    That frame costs no more than 600.00 to make and that is high. The shock is probably 200.00 direct cost. What industry makes 300%+ profit, this is more a shot at all the bike companies.
    These numbers are speculative and way off. I don't work for Yeti but I have worked in the bike business for over 30 years, the last 8 or 9 in sourcing and I can tell you that the materials and labor are more than you have stated and the OEM cost of the shock is as well. If you think the bike industry is a bunch of fat cats rolling in profits you couldn't be farther from the truth.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy View Post
    These numbers are speculative and way off. I don't work for Yeti but I have worked in the bike business for over 30 years, the last 8 or 9 in sourcing and I can tell you that the materials and labor are more than you have stated and the OEM cost of the shock is as well. If you think the bike industry is a bunch of fat cats rolling in profits you couldn't be farther from the truth.
    I don't work in the industry but I've heard that theres about 40 hours of labor in a carbon bike frame layup. Also, I'm soooo sick of people bitching about how expensive Yeti's are! Every damn thread. If you can't afford it go buy a YT and shut up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    I don't work in the industry but I've heard that theres about 40 hours of labor in a carbon bike frame layup. Also, I'm soooo sick of people bitching about how expensive Yeti's are! Every damn thread. If you can't afford it go buy a YT and shut up.
    Yeah I always wonder what people think they should cost and why.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chichiballz View Post
    ^^^
    This is absolutely true. If you truly want to be frugal and save as much money, build the bike yourself. I just built my SB100 turq with top of line parts, mix GX/XO comp for best weight savings/performance, carbon wheelset <1300g, next sl crankset, KS dropper for $6800. Final weight was #25lb with pedals. This can be done with the SB130. You also DO NOT NEED NEW PARTS. I would absolutely source OEM takeoffs/barely used parts that people part with in classified and pinkbike. Your biggest costs will be the frame/fork/carbon wheelset. Everything else can be had cheap. You can potentially spec a TURQ build for < $5k if you're savy enough.

    This winter I will start my SB130 build, will aim to make it like the SB5LR for burlier riding, keeping my sb100 because it flat out shreds everything I ride in Pisgah. Sb100= rocket ship, I'm predicting Sb130 is a monster truck with rockets attached.
    Again to reiterate this point.......
    Just bult up an SB100 with full X01, Nox Teoís laced to I9ís with the straight laced spokes, SRAM Guide Ultimates, 9point8 dropper, Fox 34 SC 120, Next Carbon bar, CK headset, RF Turbine Stem, Ergon TI saddle, WT Camo ring, WT ReMote, Ergon GE1 grips, and Ardent/Highroller 2.
    Cost me under 8500 for essentially top of the line everything by being smart with how and when I purchased. Expensive build without question but nowhere near 12000 bucks.
    I donít understand why every time Yeti comes out with a new bike everybody comes out of the woodwork to attack the price. There isnít a constitutional amendment that guarantees every bike will fit a price range within everyoneís budget. Its an amazing time with almost endless options that fit price ranges from 2k all the way up to 12k with amazing bikes. Buy what you can afford, ride the hell out of it and love it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Yeah I always wonder what people think they should cost and why.
    I just looked at Competitive Cyclist's mountain bike selection, and saw a whole lot of XO1 builds at $7 and $8K or higher, and none of them have Switch Infinity. Add to that, Yeti is growing leaps and bounds in recent years, and working to build an outdoor retailer campus that will surely cost some $$$. BME has to cost some coin as well. The cost of doing business is what it is, and they have a bottom line just like everyone else.

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    Quote Originally Posted by YetiKK View Post
    I just looked at Competitive Cyclist's mountain bike selection, and saw a whole lot of XO1 builds at $7 and $8K or higher, and none of them have Switch Infinity. Add to that, Yeti is growing leaps and bounds in recent years, and working to build an outdoor retailer campus that will surely cost some $$$. BME has to cost some coin as well. The cost of doing business is what it is, and they have a bottom line just like everyone else.
    I donít actually think Yeti is going to own the real estate. They will just be an anchor tenant on the campus.

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    My understanding is that they purchased the 24acres when it went up for sale.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian029 View Post
    My understanding is that they purchased the 24acres when it went up for sale.
    Youíre right that they do own. From an article online: ďThe proposed development, which requires rezoning approval, includes 25 acres of developable land. Yeti Cycles will retain 9 acres. Neenan Company will develop the remaining 16, selling or leasing the remaining buildings to other owner-partners.Ē

    Thatís cool that they will own it. That shows real commitment to the community.

  171. #171
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    Rumor mill around these parts is that Yeti will go Direct to Customer.. Like some others have.. Any truth to this? May drive down some of the customer cost. Anyway, every "hobby" has elite or high end products. Bassboats over $75k.. Guns, motorcycles, kayaks, hunting gear, road bikes, Gamers..etc.. Its not just Yeti. You have a premium product that will bring a premium price. If you had a horrible product with a premium price you'd go under really fast. Its all in what you like and can afford. I know a guy with a YT that smokes all us around my area. Its what he can afford and he rides it like a demon.

  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian029 View Post
    Again to reiterate this point.......
    Just bult up an SB100 with full X01, Nox Teoís laced to I9ís with the straight laced spokes, SRAM Guide Ultimates, 9point8 dropper, Fox 34 SC 120, Next Carbon bar, CK headset, RF Turbine Stem, Ergon TI saddle, WT Camo ring, WT ReMote, Ergon GE1 grips, and Ardent/Highroller 2.
    Cost me under 8500 for essentially top of the line everything by being smart with how and when I purchased. Expensive build without question but nowhere near 12000 bucks.
    I donít understand why every time Yeti comes out with a new bike everybody comes out of the woodwork to attack the price. There isnít a constitutional amendment that guarantees every bike will fit a price range within everyoneís budget. Its an amazing time with almost endless options that fit price ranges from 2k all the way up to 12k with amazing bikes. Buy what you can afford, ride the hell out of it and love it.
    The reason the price gets attacked is because its higher than any other bike brand for a frame only. I have owned a Yeti from new and they are great bikes but in a flooded market bringing the price down should be the ultimate goal.

    For the other guy about frame costs even if they only make 100% profit that's still very high.

    Most business's goal is a 20-30% overall Margin. I would be willing to bet they make the most off of the clothes.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

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    Quote Originally Posted by nmgold View Post
    hey I'm new here. I've been an Ibis guy for some time. mojo SL then Mojo 3 werx build. they run smaller in their sizes and that's been an issue and I found I could ride a ripley LS V3 large and it felt great, climbs like a race car and it's pretty solid on mid level chunky stuff. (I'm getting the the Yeti part . I was pretty sure moving to a size large top end build would be great on the Ripley and upgrading the fork to a 140mm would make it a bit more all mountain (like me Ibis Mojo 3 = 140 Pike up front, 130 Fox rear). Then I started to take my time and watched every thing on the bible of bikes, looking into the Evil Following MB, then this bike dropped 2 days ago and my head is spinning! and i started thinking this might be better suited for me (I need to demo it). Being new to Yeti, I've done some research on the SB 100, the SB 4.5 and now the SB 130. curious if any of you guys have an opinion on the Ripley w/ a 140 fork, Evil MB (yet to ride) and now this new 130. I think the 100 is too CC for me. The 130 may climb well but as you said (relative to what?). I'm an north east rider, I like to ride fast and do some fun stuff in Vermont at Kindom trails on Burke Mountain which is can be pretty aggressive. I realize until I ride the other bikes (which will all be bigger than my current medium, fixing that issue) I won't really know. But i've watched the entire internet over the last 3 weeks and found this thread so I thought i'd drop in. thanks in advance.
    I live in the northeast as well (NH) and I have an MB right now and I love it. I was and still am considering this bike as it has the travel I "think" I need.

    Where its rocky and rooty, I think my mb is perfect, besides I would like it to be a lb or 2 lower (29.5 lb build with pedals). I don't do a lot of jumps and drops bc im not around much in a close area to my house so I don't know if I need the yeti. I want it bc of future endeavors but close by area, not so much.

    I definitely want to try the yeti and I hope I don't like it (spending more money) but time will tell.

    Im curious on how playful it is considering the wheelbase. I rather have something more playful and agile than more stable, but thats my preference.

  174. #174
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    Every time I get into a pricing debate in these forums I get attacked and end up pissing people off so Iím happy to see many of the comments where you other owners can reiterate my same thoughts. Owning a Yeti is an investment that not all people will understand, Your paying a premium price for a unique Suspension design and more of a customer experience if you choose to get involved in some of the Yeti group driven events.

    Owning a bike is all that matters and for that matter any bike is the best Bike because it gets you outside in nature and away from all the BS were spoon fed on The airwaves.

    The last point like many have said is that building a bike starting from the frame up and being patient and frugal with the exact part choices that for your needs and budget is not only cost effective but also tons of fun to do and very rewarding. Iíve done this with almost every bike Iíve owned.

    Letís enjoy this great time to be Mountain bikers and get out and ride our bikes and be stoked about how fortunate we are to even have this freedom and ability to make these choices.

  175. #175
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    Right on man!


    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Every time I get into a pricing debate in these forums I get attacked and end up pissing people off so Iím happy to see many of the comments where you other owners can reiterate my same thoughts. Owning a Yeti is an investment that not all people will understand, Your paying a premium price for a unique Suspension design and more of a customer experience if you choose to get involved in some of the Yeti group driven events.

    Owning a bike is all that matters and for that matter any bike is the best Bike because it gets you outside in nature and away from all the BS were spoon fed on The airwaves.

    The last point like many have said is that building a bike starting from the frame up and being patient and frugal with the exact part choices that for your needs and budget is not only cost effective but also tons of fun to do and very rewarding. Iíve done this with almost every bike Iíve owned.

    Letís enjoy this great time to be Mountain bikers and get out and ride our bikes and be stoked about how fortunate we are to even have this freedom and ability to make these choices.

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by lagerboy View Post
    Skinny, a question: I have the SB5 which Iíve spent a fair bit of money upgrading (ACS coil, DPX2 shock etc). Looks like the 130 will be an amazing bike but I am reluctant to blow that kind of money. My main plan was to get the new SB5 (SB145?) frame when it comes out but Iím starting to wonder if 29er bikes just flat out outperform 27.5 these days... ie, should I just take the pain and make the switch? I note that lots of my trails are tight switchbacks where bigger wheels might not be such a big advantage. Iím running 2.6 inch tires which I love. Thanks
    Iím very nervous suggesting any 29íer Bike to you based on what your used to and the type of trails you ride most often which are traditionally where Longer WB 29íers tend to struggle unless you have stellar bike handling skills.....stoppies and can trackstand and hop around if needed in really tight stuff.

    If your open minded to taking the time to adapt to the ďBigĒ change in the way the bike will feel and the needed adjustment to how you need to position your body on these new Geo bikes with the forward riding position and body separation I have no doubt youíll be faster and maybe never look back at the smaller wheels again.

    You need to demo one of these bikes or meet up with another owner on the Yeti FB group and throw a leg over one.

    Then again if you can hold out another 6-8 months youíll have the chance to try out the new 27.5 Yeti models that will implement many of the Geo philosophies that the 29íers were give but with the more nimble 27.5 wheels.

  177. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Every time I get into a pricing debate in these forums I get attacked and end up pissing people off so Iím happy to see many of the comments where you other owners can reiterate my same thoughts. Owning a Yeti is an investment that not all people will understand, Your paying a premium price for a unique Suspension design and more of a customer experience if you choose to get involved in some of the Yeti group driven events.

    Owning a bike is all that matters and for that matter any bike is the best Bike because it gets you outside in nature and away from all the BS were spoon fed on The airwaves.

    The last point like many have said is that building a bike starting from the frame up and being patient and frugal with the exact part choices that for your needs and budget is not only cost effective but also tons of fun to do and very rewarding. Iíve done this with almost every bike Iíve owned.

    Letís enjoy this great time to be Mountain bikers and get out and ride our bikes and be stoked about how fortunate we are to even have this freedom and ability to make these choices.

  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    The reason the price gets attacked is because its higher than any other bike brand for a frame only. I have owned a Yeti from new and they are great bikes but in a flooded market bringing the price down should be the ultimate goal.

    For the other guy about frame costs even if they only make 100% profit that's still very high.

    Most business's goal is a 20-30% overall Margin. I would be willing to bet they make the most off of the clothes.
    I thought the post that you replied to has already answered your concern? If it is too high for you, like you said there are other choices that are cheaper.. Not sure what are you waiting for.

  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Every time I get into a pricing debate in these forums I get attacked and end up pissing people off so Iím happy to see many of the comments where you other owners can reiterate my same thoughts. Owning a Yeti is an investment that not all people will understand, Your paying a premium price for a unique Suspension design and more of a customer experience if you choose to get involved in some of the Yeti group driven events.

    Owning a bike is all that matters and for that matter any bike is the best Bike because it gets you outside in nature and away from all the BS were spoon fed on The airwaves.

    The last point like many have said is that building a bike starting from the frame up and being patient and frugal with the exact part choices that for your needs and budget is not only cost effective but also tons of fun to do and very rewarding. Iíve done this with almost every bike Iíve owned.

    Letís enjoy this great time to be Mountain bikers and get out and ride our bikes and be stoked about how fortunate we are to even have this freedom and ability to make these choices.
    Is there a "Like" button ?

  180. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    The reason the price gets attacked is because its higher than any other bike brand for a frame only. I have owned a Yeti from new and they are great bikes but in a flooded market bringing the price down should be the ultimate goal.

    For the other guy about frame costs even if they only make 100% profit that's still very high.

    Most business's goal is a 20-30% overall Margin. I would be willing to bet they make the most off of the clothes.
    Sorry to disagree, but Yeti's goal is the most overall margin dollars. You can do that buy selling more units are lower price or less units at a higher price. It completely depends on your overall strategy. Bringing the price down doesn't help unless you capture greater market share to make up the difference. And sometimes for aspirational brands a higher price actual generates more demand. Yeti has decided to stay firmly in the high-end camp as they don't have any builds that would be in what I would call an entry-level range.

    And yes, I think $3800 for a frame with an X2 shock is pretty outrageous despite being a Yeti owner.

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Owning a bike is all that matters and for that matter any bike is the best Bike because it gets you outside in nature and away from all the BS were spoon fed on The airwaves.
    .
    This

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    From Yeti support as to how this compares with 4.5/5.5 I'm still going to wait and demo, but encouraging for me as it sounds like my dream bike!

    The 130 is not going to be like the 4.5 or the 5.5 as it is a completely new bike with different geometry. I would say that it climbs as better than the 4.5 due to the steeper seat tube angle that gets you positioned over the pedals more. Descending wise, I would say that it is just as capable as the 5.5 due to the slacker head tube angle and the short offset fork. These changes make the bike more stable at speed while still maintaining a nice, nimble feel. It does have slightly less travel than the 5.5 but I think this is made up for my the geometry changes and the more progressive suspension design. The leverage rate is more progressive so it offers more support further into the travel and helps offer more bottom out resistance. If you have any other questions, let me know!

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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    You have plenty of time to plan for your build then. And maybe youíll find a smoking deal or the 27.5Ē bikes will be updated and you go that route.

    Call WWC or ProBike Supply and talk to them. I know if you put down the money today youíll get either the SB130 or SB150 frame in 2-3 weeks but once that first production run is sold itíll be a while
    We have a landed shipment of SB130's in stock at Bikeco for anyone interested - they are certainly going fast, but I know we currently have large X01 bikes available. Feel free to give us a call

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    I heard that Yeti lost a massive shipment from Taiwan due to the super typhoon happening in the Pacific right now. Like. literally a sunken ship.

    Yikes.

  186. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Many good points you make and I'll happily agree that pricing is ridiculous but thankfully this is my only hobby and passion and both my kids are grown now but it's absolutley bonkers to think about the markup especially if you want a complete high end boutique bike.
    This, precisely this. Only making SB's in Carbon, I end up looking elsewhere, and elsewhere is always better performance for less money possible.

    I'm still on a 2014 (!) Rocky Instinct, and when I saw the whole press announcement on the SB130, I very quickly realized I was already on a bike with that travel, that geometry (to include trail, HTA, reach, STA), and because I could buy it used I'm all in for carbon-everything and E.13/XT for a full Moab trip less than the starting price on the new 130. Also has room for two water bottles plus broduro grade fix-it kit items.
    My actual complaint is that this is the bike I was asking for years ago, and it's taken this long to make it to where it's sized correctly, and meets my basic needs. By this time, a used bike meeting the same can be so much cheaper I can add carbon wheels, cannibalize the drivetrain AND suspension, customize the cockpit, and still be cash ahead.

    Superboost isn't a sham - as soon as more people figure out you can make frames and wheels lighter with that setup (which you can) it'll be another 'discovery'... that said I'm still running a 15x100/12x142 setup and with a proper wheel build on carbon wheels, there aren't any deficiencies I can't live with... eventually 157 will be everywhere, but only after they've exhausted the wallets of everybody getting there.
    FWIW, 2.8x29 Front, 2.6x29 Rear is eventually going to be where it's at - yes it's heavy, but dear lord is that a hoot downhill at speed.

    @Lagerboy - run what you got. Maybe invest in suspension tuning, a refresh there and the drivetrain - maybe new tires... but the SB5 is still an absolute beast - just run it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian029 View Post
    Again to reiterate this point.......
    Just bult up an SB100 with full X01, Nox Teoís laced to I9ís with the straight laced spokes, SRAM Guide Ultimates, 9point8 dropper, Fox 34 SC 120, Next Carbon bar, CK headset, RF Turbine Stem, Ergon TI saddle, WT Camo ring, WT ReMote, Ergon GE1 grips, and Ardent/Highroller 2.
    Cost me under 8500 for essentially top of the line everything by being smart with how and when I purchased. Expensive build without question but nowhere near 12000 bucks.
    I donít understand why every time Yeti comes out with a new bike everybody comes out of the woodwork to attack the price. There isnít a constitutional amendment that guarantees every bike will fit a price range within everyoneís budget. Its an amazing time with almost endless options that fit price ranges from 2k all the way up to 12k with amazing bikes. Buy what you can afford, ride the hell out of it and love it.
    hey bud I'm about to build up in sb100 as well! . Just curious your nox teocali wheelset what's the internal rim width 26 or 29? . I'm about to get enve 525 or enve 630 not sure if I need a 25 mm dinner with or a 30 mm inner width for those tires what do you recommend? . Also how tall are you I'm 5 ' 10 ,3/4 " rode a medium which was spot-on but everybody's telling me to go with a large?

  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeman! View Post
    hey bud I'm about to build up in sb100 as well! . Just curious your nox teocali wheelset what's the internal rim width 26 or 29? . I'm about to get enve 525 or enve 630 not sure if I need a 25 mm dinner with or a 30 mm inner width for those tires what do you recommend? . Also how tall are you I'm 5 ' 10 ,3/4 " rode a medium which was spot-on but everybody's telling me to go with a large?
    Teocalli rims only come in one width. As specified on their website. 26mm internal.


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  189. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yok View Post
    I thought the post that you replied to has already answered your concern? If it is too high for you, like you said there are other choices that are cheaper.. Not sure what are you waiting for.
    Yeti has always been a premium brand that had a high price tag even 6 years ago. I have been riding since early 2000's when there was hardly a Yeti on the trail but every one knew of them and desired them. A alum 575 08/09 frame was $2300 then it was expensive back then and expensive now.

    Back then Yeti never discounted and never allowed dealers both lbs and online to discount until the very end of the model year. It never hurt the desire or demand.
    In recent years, I have seen a flood of Yetis due to what I think a few factors.
    1. Economy got better and people had more disposable income.
    2. Yeti started discounting earlier in year and more frequent. This allowing more people access to a premium brand.
    3. Yeti continued to innovate desire went up

    I have had 6 Yetis new and used and all frame up builds. Like skinny mentioned I do frame up builds because I get to pick and choose parts I want and from sources or prices I'm willing to pay for said parts new or used. I have built high end Yetis for myself for a significant savings vs buying new. My 7th Yeti an sb150 will be built the same way.

    All that being said, it is a bit frustrating to hear from the newer members of the Tribe who use to buy brands like Giant/Trek/Specialized etc and now ride Yeti and expect pricing and business strategy to be the same as them.

    Apple doesnt discount its products, yet they innovate and create demand and people stand in line to buy a new product every year and dont bitch about it or the pricing.. iPhones break, bend, and some have defects yet consumers still buy.

    Everyone may desire and admire a Ferrari or Lambo, but not everyone has the means or ability to own one. I dont think they care and aren't making anything to satisfy the masses at a price point just to sell more cars.

    If you ride and able to buy a Yeti then your part of a unique Tribe. If you cant or not happy with Yeti in any way there are other brands that will be happy to have your business....

    Ride what you can buy and enjoy the ride...







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  190. #190
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    The most amusing price complaint comment I've heard was on PB in the comments section of the Foxy 29 thread when a guy started "I have 3 kids that need bikes, how am I supposed to afford this ($9K bike)!?" He is going to be bummed when he sees the price of the new Ferrari, how ever will he afford 1 for each kid? How unfair! LMFAO.
    I see a lot of entitled young people on MTB forums. That's not how life works kids. Thankfully you can buy a bike that is 95% as good for 30% of the money, and even less on the used market.
    There will always be cool things you can't afford that others can, doesn't matter how successful you are. I swear it doesn't have to have any effect on your enjoyment of anything in this life. Get use to it.

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  191. #191
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    Soooo.... How's the bike?

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  192. #192
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    Boring. Everyone knows Yeti costs more than the competition. So does a Ferrari. Can we just concentrate on the merits of the bike please? Iím not made of money but Iíve wanted a Yeti since seeing Tomac on one in 1990, so Iím after info on the bike to ensure Iím spending my money on the right bike. I donít mind paying a premium to buy the brand I always wanted.

  193. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcusick View Post
    Soooo.... How's the bike?

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    Lol sorry.. I did hijack the thread..my bad..

    The sb130 will and is amazing.. lol

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  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    Boring. Everyone knows Yeti costs more than the competition. So does a Ferrari. Can we just concentrate on the merits of the bike please? Iím not made of money but Iíve wanted a Yeti since seeing Tomac on one in 1990, so Iím after info on the bike to ensure Iím spending my money on the right bike. I donít mind paying a premium to buy the brand I always wanted.
    Be patient and hopefully the first few real rider ride reports will be posted soon and that will give everyone a glimpse into how the bike performs on the trail. I think my big question on the SB130 is how agile does it feel in the tighter slow speed Tech.....rooty off camber sections into step downs and also steep turn-in switchbacks. Also how responsive the stock DPX2 tune is regarding feeling alive and punchy.....I'm trying to avoid the term Poppy and playful.

    There is no doubt in my mind this bike will be light years better than the SB5.5 doing down because of the added WB and reach which will but you in a much better position on the bike aggressively and that 65.5HA number is spot on.

    Climbing is a given....It'll climb great like all Yeti bikes and the steeper STA and 44mm offset fork will help keep weight down on that front end for tons of traction and a great transfer of power to the wheels.
    Yeti 2020 SB165
    Yeti 2019 SB150
    Yeti 2019 SB130 AXS
    Yeti 2018 SB100 AXS

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Be patient and hopefully the first few real rider ride reports will be posted soon and that will give everyone a glimpse into how the bike performs on the trail. I think my big question on the SB130 is how agile does it feel in the tighter slow speed Tech.....rooty off camber sections into step downs and also steep turn-in switchbacks. Also how responsive the stock DPX2 tune is regarding feeling alive and punchy.....I'm trying to avoid the term Poppy and playful.

    There is no doubt in my mind this bike will be light years better than the SB5.5 doing down because of the added WB and reach which will but you in a much better position on the bike aggressively and that 65.5HA number is spot on.

    Climbing is a given....It'll climb great like all Yeti bikes and the steeper STA and 44mm offset fork will help keep weight down on that front end for tons of traction and a great transfer of power to the wheels.
    Skinnybex, do you see this as the best all arounder do it all bike, or that Orbea Rallon of yours?

  196. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Skinnybex, do you see this as the best all arounder do it all bike, or that Orbea Rallon of yours?

    I still think the Rallon is Top Dawg at the moment but the SB150 will be the King I just wanna ride it before I give my opinion. I'm not sure I'd put the SB130 in the same category yet. I can Imagine that that 130mm of rear travel is really effective but the SB150 and Rallon at 150mm are going to be better for the really Gnarly stuff that some people ride day in and day out.

    For myself 80% of my ridingwould be fine on a 120-130mm bike but the other 20% I'm much more comfortable on a Big Bike.
    Yeti 2020 SB165
    Yeti 2019 SB150
    Yeti 2019 SB130 AXS
    Yeti 2018 SB100 AXS

  197. #197
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    I will be testing a large sb130 this weekend. I'll post my thoughts after..

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  198. #198
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    Sat on an SB130 L today at Big Swingin' in San Francisco. Bike felt as advertised by their sizing in the seated position as I'm 6'1". Difference is that it feels like someone moved the cranks back underneath your arse. Pretty much what I expected. They also have a size M to demo if anyone in the area is interested. Might have to give it a shot in the next couple of weeks. However I think I'm holding out for the next iteration of 27.5 bikes. Too many parts to replace.

  199. #199
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    My 130

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-sb130a.jpg

  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rom3n View Post
    My 130

    Click image for larger version. 

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    :O

    Ok... Need your thoughts ASAP vs the SB150

    ;-)

    Looking good Roman!
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