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  1. #501
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    Anyone fit a di2 battery in the trap door. Not sure if di2 is still a thing.

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  2. #502
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    I did a thingYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_7768.jpg
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0

  3. #503
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    Think its worth it if you had to do over?
    If you dont own one, would you opt for the new m9120 derailleur instead which lets you shift under load. The problem with that is you need a new cassette, chain, hub, etc..

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  4. #504
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    I had my LBS swap out internals to get my 36 up to 160mm. Supper happy with it. Itís a nice middle ground between the SB 130 and SB 150. I havenít felt any negatives from the change so far.

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbmike View Post
    I had my LBS swap out internals to get my 36 up to 160mm. Supper happy with it. Itís a nice middle ground between the SB 130 and SB 150. I havenít felt any negatives from the change so far.
    Nice! Good data point.

    Did you also convert to Grip2 damper or did you keep with the Fit4?

  6. #506
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    Backlog

    I just ordered my SB130, raw Medium frame is back ordered. LBS told me bike would be in in December. Does that match what others are experiencing?

    Thanks!

  7. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by elmer05 View Post
    I just ordered my SB130, raw Medium frame is back ordered. LBS told me bike would be in in December. Does that match what others are experiencing?

    Thanks!
    Yes, 4 to 6 weeks... If lucky.

    Sent from the singletrack...

  8. #508
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    Just ordered the SB130 GX ($5200 MSRP) with 5% off. Just wondering if it's worth the extra $1000 to go with GX Comp. I can't go any higher than that and most reviews have been with the higher end models.

    https://www.yeticycles.com/bikes/sb1...guide:spec-geo

  9. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post

    I got the XMC1200s and they are a nice wheel. Not as stiff as the Enves I have on my other bike, but really good, light, responsive. It was obviously a lot more economical to get these as part of a factory build then go aftermarket. No regrets getting them. And they are a huge upgrade relative to the aluminum hoops I rode on when demoing SB130... Only $500 Euros? Seems like a no brainer to me! Yes.
    Thanks for input. Aftermarket carb hoops would be a 1000e more - with some hassle so most likely will go for XMCs.




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  10. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpress View Post
    FWIW... The 130 frame I received from Jenson a few days ago had play in the shock bushing. I reached out to Yeti and they will be sending a replacement bushing set. They did say its a known issue and that its the right part, but the tolerance from Fox is off.
    Hmmm... my frame came from Jenson too, just recently. Guess I should check for play too.

  11. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrPete View Post
    Hmmm... my frame came from Jenson too, just recently. Guess I should check for play too.
    Curious are you guys getting any discounts from Jensen? Iíd assume you would go to a LBS if you were not getting at least a little deal from Jensen.

    Thx

  12. #512
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    Jenson had the distinction of being the only place that had the frame in my size ready to ship. I am active duty military and they give a small discount for that, but so do others.

  13. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gratefulone View Post
    Curious are you guys getting any discounts from Jensen? Iíd assume you would go to a LBS if you were not getting at least a little deal from Jensen.

    Thx
    No discounts other than free shipping and no tax. No LBS option where I live either.


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  14. #514
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    Hereís my recently delivered SB130 XL Turq frame. The frame weighs 7.4 lbs with seatpost collar. The build is going to be...

    XL Frame
    Fox 36 150 Grip2 (Push tuned)
    SRAM Eagle X01
    SRAM Guide RSC
    Reverb 170mm w 1x
    Chris King headset
    Enduro PF92/30 BB
    Raceface Turbine 170
    Spank Oozy Trail pedals
    Enve M70HV
    Minion DHF 2.5/Agressor 2.3
    Raceface Atlas stem & bar
    Ergon saddle & grips








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  15. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    Oops, missed your message. For sure, will do!



    First, congrats on the frame! Hope you are as pleased as I am with your purchase. A couple of additional thoughts....

    - I realized that my Cannondale reference ride was with my pack and the SB130 climb was no pack, just a water bottle (was trying out using this great new feature, haha!) Turns out this pretty much negates the 6lb difference in raw weight (neglecting any differences in rotational inertia). I'm sure there are many other uncontrolled variables too so take all with a grain of salt....
    - I've been associated with "roadie" culture for a long time, so I know a little bit about being a weight weenie. I've thought pretty hard about this stuff and have definitely tried some things over time. 6lbs is a huge % of the bike weight, I agree, and you get great benefits like snappier and livelier acceleration/response, etc.. when you have a light bike. But if you are just cranking away steady state it really doesn't make that much of a difference so long as your drivetrain is efficient. Based on my weight, I'd expect on the order of 3% difference based on that 6lb weight delta, which equates to about 1 minute for my 30 min climb. That's in the realm of repeatability for that ride in any case....
    - Having said all that.... if I were racing or just grinding up hills and riding (relatively) smooth trail, no question I'd take the Cannondale over the Yeti. That bike is a race machine.
    - On the Ripmo, I have no timed data to share so this is just my subjective feeling comparing the bikes. Yes, I know it's lighter, but I noticed a lot more pedal bob on the Ripmo vs. Yeti. (thus my comment of perceived lower "efficiency") I rode both bikes wide open, BTW.... Could it just have been suspension tuning? Absolutely. But after demoing 2 Yetis I do think there is merit to how they've tuned the suspension to reduce squat. I'm not saying SI is better than all, but the overall package for me worked better than anything else I've tried. On the geo - yes, they are "similar" but there are distinct differences as well. Hard to see unless you compare by overlay. How do I know? I took high res pictures of all the bikes I was considering, scaled them, and overlaid them on top of each other, with one bike translucent. Very, very interesting and telling. I put all this together in a Keynote preso. (yes, I am a total nerd) So I do feel like I have a pretty good understanding on how geometry affects my perception/fit of the bike. Of course YMMV.

    In any case, Ride On!
    This is so helpful. Thank you for sharing. I rented a ripmo from THC and fell in love. Still on the fence with the Yeti - I currently ride an Sb95 from THC 6 years ago and loved the SB130 design but hate the cost and concerned about the frame issues discussed here.

    I will most likely end up buying what I can get used (most likely ripmo).

  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidrhorn View Post
    Just ordered the SB130 GX ($5200 MSRP) with 5% off. Just wondering if it's worth the extra $1000 to go with GX Comp. I can't go any higher than that and most reviews have been with the higher end models.

    https://www.yeticycles.com/bikes/sb1...guide:spec-geo
    Hell no. It seems a strange spec. Certainly not worth the extra $1000. If you want to spend more, buy the GX one and use the $1000 to upgrade the parts you want to upgrade. Start with a Grip 2 damper, carbon bars, better brakes, DHR rear tyre. Probably about $300 left after buying that lot, so maybe an X01 mech and Raceface Turbine Cranks. Or put the lot towards the carbon wheel upgrade.

    I'm probably buying the GX spec model myself (alternatively a custom build) and these sort of upgrades are what I'll be doing, although not straight away.

  17. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpress View Post
    Hereís my recently delivered SB130 XL Turq frame. The frame weighs 7.4 lbs with seatpost collar. The build is going to be...

    XL Frame
    Fox 36 150 Grip2 (Push tuned)
    SRAM Eagle X01
    SRAM Guide RSC
    Reverb 170mm w 1x
    Chris King headset
    Enduro PF92/30 BB
    Raceface Turbine 170
    Spank Oozy Trail pedals
    Enve M70HV
    Minion DHF 2.5/Agressor 2.3
    Raceface Atlas stem & bar
    Ergon saddle & grips








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    Awesome, congrats. Looks like it will be nice build!

    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpy_Steve View Post
    This is so helpful. Thank you for sharing. I rented a ripmo from THC and fell in love. Still on the fence with the Yeti - I currently ride an Sb95 from THC 6 years ago and loved the SB130 design but hate the cost and concerned about the frame issues discussed here.

    I will most likely end up buying what I can get used (most likely ripmo).
    I don't think you can go wrong with the Ripmo. Super nice and very capable bike.

    On Yeti - understand on the cost side of things for sure, it's not cheap. On issues - I saw the thread prior to pulling the trigger on my SB130 and have no regrets, and no problems so far. If I do have problems, I have no doubt THC and Yeti would take care of me. YMMV.

    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    Hell no. It seems a strange spec. Certainly not worth the extra $1000. If you want to spend more, buy the GX one and use the $1000 to upgrade the parts you want to upgrade. Start with a Grip 2 damper, carbon bars, better brakes, DHR rear tyre. Probably about $300 left after buying that lot, so maybe an X01 mech and Raceface Turbine Cranks. Or put the lot towards the carbon wheel upgrade.

    I'm probably buying the GX spec model myself (alternatively a custom build) and these sort of upgrades are what I'll be doing, although not straight away.
    Agree here, I think the upgrade for $1000 seems steep for what you get, esp. if you are the kind of person who is handy and would upgrade things yourself later (DIY). Having said that if you want to buy and ride/not tinker, the GX comp does have nicer wheels, derailleur, crankset, and brakes. I personally don't like SRAM brakes and would probably have chosen comp over GX for just that reason, LOL... GL.

  18. #518
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    Living dangerously with my SB130...

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_5918.jpg
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_5916.jpg

    Thought I'd post an update after a long morning ride out in Aptos/Santa Cruz this AM....

    As you can see, I mounted a 2.5 Aggressor on the rear of my bike and had a go with it. I wish I could report that I ride my bike hard enough to flex the frame and cause rubbing, but that did not happen. However, I did not ride the gnarliest stuff around though, so take with a grain of salt. I like the added grip and plan to keep it on until (or if) it gets wet around here. Just an FYI for folks here interested in all things SB130. And to answer the curious questions: yes the gap is small, yes I can push the tire to rub against the frame with my hand, and I am running carbon wheels.

    BTW, I don't plan to cross post (thread dump) to the problems thread because I don't discount SD or any other person's problems they have; this being the SB130 discussion thread, thought people would find this info most relevant here.

    This weekend warrior here is still just loving this bike, and having a blast riding it. Peace!

  19. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
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    Thought I'd post an update after a long morning ride out in Aptos/Santa Cruz this AM....

    As you can see, I mounted a 2.5 Aggressor on the rear of my bike and had a go with it. I wish I could report that I ride my bike hard enough to flex the frame and cause rubbing, but that did not happen. However, I did not ride the gnarliest stuff around though, so take with a grain of salt. I like the added grip and plan to keep it on until (or if) it gets wet around here. Just an FYI for folks here interested in all things SB130. And to answer the curious questions: yes the gap is small, yes I can push the tire to rub against the frame with my hand, and I am running carbon wheels.

    BTW, I don't plan to cross post (thread dump) to the problems thread because I don't discount SD or any other person's problems they have; this being the SB130 discussion thread, thought people would find this info most relevant here.

    This weekend warrior here is still just loving this bike, and having a blast riding it. Peace!
    Nice... enjoy that ripper..

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  20. #520
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    This is my first post on here. I'm wanting to join the Yeti tribe but i'm stuck deciding between the Yeti SB130 and SB150. I'm a bigger guy about 6'3 220lb with all my gear. I've demoed the SB150 but didn't get a chance to ride the SB130. I currently have a Scott Genius 940 GX 150mm travel front and rear. I live in Dallas and make a few bike park trips a year.
    Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

  21. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewartzach401 View Post
    This is my first post on here. I'm wanting to join the Yeti tribe but i'm stuck deciding between the Yeti SB130 and SB150. I'm a bigger guy about 6'3 220lb with all my gear. I've demoed the SB150 but didn't get a chance to ride the SB130. I currently have a Scott Genius 940 GX 150mm travel front and rear. I live in Dallas and make a few bike park trips a year.
    Thanks in advance for any help or advice!
    I am just over 6'2" and about 210 geared up. I bought the 130 (did not demo the 150) but considered the 100. I rode a 2016 Trek Fuel EX 9.9 previously and LOVE that bike but go to Whistler for 2 weeks every summer and my Trek felt just slightly under biked for stuff like Dark Crystal, Comfortably Numb etc although I was pleasantly surprised at how the 120 120 Trek handled it all. That got me thinking about the 100 as I saw lots of people riding them there. In the end, I do like to jump and do features and want to continue to improve in these areas so thought the 130 may be the "perfect in-between" do it all bike. I only have about 100 miles on it so far (weather is turning here and only got the bike 2 weeks ago) but I am getting used to the bike and every ride I like it more and more. It definitely pops and boosts jumps like crazy!!! MTB YumYum has a new review and he echos those sentiments. But he has a 150 video coming as well and looks like he thinks the 150 is the best LT bike that he has ever ridden (plus he owns a 100). I guess the bottom line is you really cannot go wrong. They are all amazing bikes that are literally right up there as one of the best bikes on the planet so the most important point to make may be to do an honest assessment of your riding ability and local trail network. Each step up does add weight and it is noticeable. I hate sacrificing climbing ability so for me the 130 is a great compromise. It is over-biked in some scenarios but not in others, whereas the 150 for me, would be over-biked almost all the time unless I lived in Whistler, not just visiting there once a year. Those are my opinions and thoughts and I hope it helps!!! Great problem to have bud!!! Good luck and have fun riding!!!

  22. #522
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    Here is my build with Orange delete (previous bike was baby blue and orange so wanted to mix it up). Decals are temporary for now but once my Invisiframe comes in I will strip it all, including the clear that comes with the frame, and redo the decals permanently and then Invisiframe overtop. Have a 60mm stem on order and will give that a try. 50mm did not seem to make much of a difference so going to try slightly longer to see what I like best. Otherwise pretty good for now. Looking for a carbon fibre weave exposed bar like a Candy Ray but having a hard time finding one in a 35mm that is available in North America?? Any thoughts??
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2897.jpg
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2899.jpg
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2900.jpg
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2901.jpg
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2902.jpg

  23. #523
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    Looks great! Very clean.
    Im going to give the mrp micro xcg bash guard a try.

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  24. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Looks great! Very clean.
    Im going to give the mrp micro xcg bash guard a try.

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    Thanks jacksonlui!! Ya I did the Absolute Black bash guard with the oval chainring. No issues, totally happy so far.

  25. #525
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    Thanks! I think I will stick with the GX Eagle and start saving for some carbon wheels down the road.

  26. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjbeats View Post
    Here is my build with Orange delete (previous bike was baby blue and orange so wanted to mix it up). Decals are temporary for now but once my Invisiframe comes in I will strip it all, including the clear that comes with the frame, and redo the decals permanently and then Invisiframe overtop. Have a 60mm stem on order and will give that a try. 50mm did not seem to make much of a difference so going to try slightly longer to see what I like best. Otherwise pretty good for now. Looking for a carbon fibre weave exposed bar like a Candy Ray but having a hard time finding one in a 35mm that is available in North America?? Any thoughts??
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    Ford Raptors and XX1 Yetis? Fireman must make more money wherever you live, haha.
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0

  27. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewartzach401 View Post
    This is my first post on here. I'm wanting to join the Yeti tribe but i'm stuck deciding between the Yeti SB130 and SB150. I'm a bigger guy about 6'3 220lb with all my gear. I've demoed the SB150 but didn't get a chance to ride the SB130. I currently have a Scott Genius 940 GX 150mm travel front and rear. I live in Dallas and make a few bike park trips a year.
    Thanks in advance for any help or advice!
    Go with the SB130 and donít even second guess yourself. Your weight has no bearing on which of the 2 bikes you should choose and in the end for the area you will primarily ride your bike in....Texas in general as well as maybe a few trips to Colorado or New Mexico the SB130 is way more capable than almost all the other mid travel bikes Iíve ridden.

    You may only need to experiment with volume spacers in the DPX2 but youíd also need to do the same with the X2 and I actually love the DPX2 tune on the SB130.

  28. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidrhorn View Post
    Thanks! I think I will stick with the GX Eagle and start saving for some carbon wheels down the road.
    That baseline GX Build is the best value. You could sell the M1900 wheels immediately for $275 and add that to the $1000 you already saved by not going with the GX Comp build and then buy a set of We are one Agent wheels with DT350 hubs and the 54t ratchet upgrade. Thatíll cost you $1250 new for what I consider the best carbon wheels money can buy at the best value in the industry.

    Then eventually get a carbon bar and maybe some Carbon cranks when the time is right but the bike is dialed straight out of the box.

  29. #529
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    BTW, I think the entry level Grip Damper is damn near the best value damper available. It doesnít need to be upgraded at all unless your the type of rider that want the ultimate tunability from the Grip2 adjustments.

    If you do decide to upgrade the fork the damper alone will run you about $250 new if you use a discount code at a few of the e-sellers. The install isnít difficult at all if you do it yourself.

  30. #530
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    That baseline GX Build is the best value. You could sell the M1900 wheels immediately for $275 and add that to the $1000 you already saved by not going with the GX Comp build and then buy a set of We are one Agent wheels with DT350 hubs and the 54t ratchet upgrade. Thatíll cost you $1250 new for what I consider the best carbon wheels money can buy at the best value in the industry.

    Then eventually get a carbon bar and maybe some Carbon cranks when the time is right but the bike is dialed straight out of the box.
    I'm planning on getting the We Are One with I9s, what do you think I can get for my M1700s?
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0

  31. #531
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    Thanks man for your advice. I'll go and check out some of MTB YumYum's videos. I'm thinking the SB130 would be perfect for around Dallas just not sure it will be enough for bike parks. I thought the SB150 climbed amazingly well for having 170mm/150mm. I'm looking for the perfect 1 bike I can take to bike parks as well as trail ride.

  32. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Ford Raptors and XX1 Yetis? Fireman must make more money wherever you live, haha.
    Actually, I am a dentist......LOL!!! JK. Ya a lifetime of hard work and hustling has put me in a situation where I can buy a new bike and not sweat the cost. And the fact that it is the absolute best addiction that I have, I can easily justify it. Ride 3+ days per week and need good stuff. Hell, I can think of so much junk that I waste money on that give me little joy or wellness that this is a no-brainer!!! Take care and ride on!!!

  33. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Go with the SB130 and donít even second guess yourself. Your weight has no bearing on which of the 2 bikes you should choose and in the end for the area you will primarily ride your bike in....Texas in general as well as maybe a few trips to Colorado or New Mexico the SB130 is way more capable than almost all the other mid travel bikes Iíve ridden.

    You may only need to experiment with volume spacers in the DPX2 but youíd also need to do the same with the X2 and I actually love the DPX2 tune on the SB130.
    I'm starting to lean more and more towards the SB130. Thanks for your advice.

  34. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjbeats View Post
    Actually, I am a dentist......LOL!!! JK. Ya a lifetime of hard work and hustling has put me in a situation where I can buy a new bike and not sweat the cost. And the fact that it is the absolute best addiction that I have, I can easily justify it. Ride 3+ days per week and need good stuff. Hell, I can think of so much junk that I waste money on that give me little joy or wellness that this is a no-brainer!!! Take care and ride on!!!
    No I get it man, I've dropped $15k+ in bikes this year alone, but I do feel a little guilty as my level of bikes outpaces my skill.
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0

  35. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpress View Post
    FWIW... The 130 frame I received from Jenson a few days ago had play in the shock bushing. I reached out to Yeti and they will be sending a replacement bushing set. They did say its a known issue and that its the right part, but the tolerance from Fox is off.
    Well, I found some play in mine and got a totally different answer from Yeti... they said a little play is to be expected but if itís excessive I can go buy some new ones.

    I have to say as a first time Yeti owner that Iím not super stoked with that answer for a frame Iím not even done building. Do you remember who you spoke with?

  36. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjbeats View Post
    Here is my build with Orange delete (previous bike was baby blue and orange so wanted to mix it up). Decals are temporary for now but once my Invisiframe comes in I will strip it all, including the clear that comes with the frame, and redo the decals permanently and then Invisiframe overtop.

    That orange delete looks great, the color scheme looks really awesome!

    On the frame protection tape they provide with the bike, I thought it was a bit too minimal for coverage. Was disappointed that it didn't cover more paint...... So I put it on, rode 1 weekend and then stripped it off to do my own clear wrap. Invisiframe must have just recently put up the SB130 custom cut, because I didn't see it earlier. Glad to see they have it now for others..... what a huge pain it was making my own templates, LOL.....

    Quote Originally Posted by Stewartzach401 View Post
    Thanks man for your advice. I'll go and check out some of MTB YumYum's videos. I'm thinking the SB130 would be perfect for around Dallas just not sure it will be enough for bike parks. I thought the SB150 climbed amazingly well for having 170mm/150mm. I'm looking for the perfect 1 bike I can take to bike parks as well as trail ride.
    I agree with skinnybex on his assessment, would personally recommend the same. The SB130 is super capable in rough terrain, a lot more than it's #s suggest. All the while maintaining an amazing level of playfullness/liveliness to it. I won't hesitate to bring my SB130 to a park or a place like Downieville if/when the occasion comes up.

    In the end though, it's a personal decision, and best advise anyone can give is you should really just decide what you value/appreciate most in a bike and go with that as your guiding principle. If park riding and capability is more important, no question SB150. If trail and overall riding is more important, go SB130. I don't think you can go wrong with either.

  37. #537
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post

    That orange delete looks great, the color scheme looks really awesome!

    On the frame protection tape they provide with the bike, I thought it was a bit too minimal for coverage. Was disappointed that it didn't cover more paint...... So I put it on, rode 1 weekend and then stripped it off to do my own clear wrap. Invisiframe must have just recently put up the SB130 custom cut, because I didn't see it earlier. Glad to see they have it now for others..... what a huge pain it was making my own templates, LOL.....



    I agree with skinnybex on his assessment, would personally recommend the same. The SB130 is super capable in rough terrain, a lot more than it's #s suggest. All the while maintaining an amazing level of playfullness/liveliness to it. I won't hesitate to bring my SB130 to a park or a place like Downieville if/when the occasion comes up.

    In the end though, it's a personal decision, and best advise anyone can give is you should really just decide what you value/appreciate most in a bike and go with that as your guiding principle. If park riding and capability is more important, no question SB150. If trail and overall riding is more important, go SB130. I don't think you can go wrong with either.
    Invisaframe is slowly releasing sizes for both 130/150 as they get frames...

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  38. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrPete View Post
    Well, I found some play in mine and got a totally different answer from Yeti... they said a little play is to be expected but if itís excessive I can go buy some new ones.

    I have to say as a first time Yeti owner that Iím not super stoked with that answer for a frame Iím not even done building. Do you remember who you spoke with?
    I noted in another thread that I was avoiding the 130 bc of early ďplayĒ issues. Yeti responded that play was normal. It seems weird to me, but Iím not a bike engineer.

    Either way, it seems that the Yeti folks need to have a huddle.

  39. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrPete View Post
    Well, I found some play in mine and got a totally different answer from Yeti... they said a little play is to be expected but if itís excessive I can go buy some new ones.

    I have to say as a first time Yeti owner that Iím not super stoked with that answer for a frame Iím not even done building. Do you remember who you spoke with?
    I first reported the problem to Jenson USA. They said some play is normal, but to contact Fox or Yeti if its excessive. I then spoke to Dave at Yeti. who handles the warranty requests. I was initially told again that a little play is normal. They agreed to send out new bushings after I explained that I could visibly see the shock move side to side accompanied by a loud knocking sound.

  40. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    That baseline GX Build is the best value. You could sell the M1900 wheels immediately for $275 and add that to the $1000 you already saved by not going with the GX Comp build and then buy a set of We are one Agent wheels with DT350 hubs and the 54t ratchet upgrade. Thatíll cost you $1250 new for what I consider the best carbon wheels money can buy at the best value in the industry.

    Then eventually get a carbon bar and maybe some Carbon cranks when the time is right but the bike is dialed straight out of the box.
    Wow, only $275 for the wheelset. I guess it is what it is.

  41. #541
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    If you compare an sb130 and sb150 with the same 160mm fork and dpx2, what's really the difference between the two. I can only guess that the sb150 will have a little more carbon layup, 20mm longer wheelbase, and a slightly more linear curve versus a little more progression in the sb130. The HA and SA is about the same.
    Sb130 will be a little more agile but less stable at high speeds. Sb130 will be slightly lighter and more poppy, a little easier to boost. Is it fair to say that you can turn a sb150 into an sb130 but have the option of turning it into a bike park bike with the danger of more pedal strikes? With the same thought possibly turn the sb130 close to the sb150 to handle most double blacks at bike parks but retain a more fun ride for 80% of your local trails due to a shorter WB and poppy curve?

    Im currently on the hd4 and the sb130 HA and WB is very close. I just lose about 20mm of shock travel but that may be compensated by the larger wheels. Im hoping that i get the same capability with the sb130, maybe lose a little bit of forgiveness for some more fun on local trails. I will miss my x2 shock but gain some boost.

    Trying to think aloud here and see if this logic makes any sense. Might help those on the fence between the two like i am.


    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  42. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidrhorn View Post
    Wow, only $275 for the wheelset. I guess it is what it is.
    Maybe you could squeeze $300 plus shipping but my experience with that specific wheel set as I sold it off my Rallon as well as another previous bike was most people were put off by the hubs and just needed a fairly strong cheap wheel which the M1900 is.

    The jump up to the M1700 wheel gives you DT's 350 hub which is a great hub and only needs the 36t - 54t ratchet upgrade. That wheel in 32 hole is fine although the 28h version doesn't belong on the builds IMHO especially for 29'er wheels which are always a bit more flexy.
    Yeti SB130
    Yeti SB100
    Yeti SB5.5
    Trans Sentinel
    Ibis Ripmo
    Yeti SB4.5
    Orbea Rallon
    Devinci Spartan
    Devinci Troy

  43. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    If you compare an sb130 and sb150 with the same 160mm fork and dpx2, what's really the difference between the two. I can only guess that the sb150 will have a little more carbon layup, 20mm longer wheelbase, and a slightly more linear curve versus a little more progression in the sb130. The HA and SA is about the same.
    Sb130 will be a little more agile but less stable at high speeds. Sb130 will be slightly lighter and more poppy, a little easier to boost. Is it fair to say that you can turn a sb150 into an sb130 but have the option of turning it into a bike park bike with the danger of more pedal strikes? With the same thought possibly turn the sb130 close to the sb150 to handle most double blacks at bike parks but retain a more fun ride for 80% of your local trails due to a shorter WB and poppy curve?

    Im currently on the hd4 and the sb130 HA and WB is very close. I just lose about 20mm of shock travel but that may be compensated by the larger wheels. Im hoping that i get the same capability with the sb130, maybe lose a little bit of forgiveness for some more fun on local trails. I will miss my x2 shock but gain some boost.

    Trying to think aloud here and see if this logic makes any sense. Might help those on the fence between the two like i am.


    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Wow, a lot there. I follow, but seems like a waste to buy a bike only to covert it to something different than intended use. Also, balancing F/R is important IMHO. I am finding my SB130 to be pretty well balanced. I'm not chewing through the fork travel vs. rear so my desire to "lunch ride" it has severely waned. And even if I did that (as several have) it might slacken the bike by less than 0.5 deg., still not at SB150 spec.

    One of my riding buddies has an HD4 and that thing is a monster. It's definitely more capable on the down than my SB130, he has more margin when things get hairy. But it's rare he uses all that travel.... Do you chew through all the travel/capability of your HD4?

  44. #544
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    Any suggestions on removing the rear axle of S130? It's so tight the drive side allen head is likely to strip out.

    Thanks,

    EDventure

  45. #545
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    Yeah i usually use all my rear travel and usually 85% of the fork on my hd4.
    I wasnt suggesting turning the 130 into a 150 though. An SB130 LR has a similar geo to the hd4 without the extra 20mm of travel.
    Thats why I'm speculating that the difference might not be that big. Although 2 different shocks, my hd4 has an x2.
    Just trying to talk through the decision between a 130 and 150 as a one bike quiver.
    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    Wow, a lot there. I follow, but seems like a waste to buy a bike only to covert it to something different than intended use. Also, balancing F/R is important IMHO. I am finding my SB130 to be pretty well balanced. I'm not chewing through the fork travel vs. rear so my desire to "lunch ride" it has severely waned. And even if I did that (as several have) it might slacken the bike by less than 0.5 deg., still not at SB150 spec.

    One of my riding buddies has an HD4 and that thing is a monster. It's definitely more capable on the down than my SB130, he has more margin when things get hairy. But it's rare he uses all that travel.... Do you chew through all the travel/capability of your HD4?
    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  46. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Ford Raptors and XX1 Yetis? Fireman must make more money wherever you live, haha.
    Yep! And the mechanics don't do half bad neither in these neck of the woods!

  47. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    No I get it man, I've dropped $15k+ in bikes this year alone, but I do feel a little guilty as my level of bikes outpaces my skill.
    I used to think the same way.. But you can always grow into the bike skill wise.. I'd rather that than have to upgrade to a better bike.

  48. #548
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    Quote Originally Posted by edbraunbeck View Post
    Any suggestions on removing the rear axle of S130? It's so tight the drive side allen head is likely to strip out.

    Thanks,

    EDventure
    The axel comes off on the non-drive side.

  49. #549
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    Hereís my SB130 L Turq frame. The frame weighs 3.18kg with seatpost collar and axle.

    L Frame
    Fox 36 150 Grip2
    Shimano XTR 10-51 12 Speed
    Shimano Saint 180/180
    Bike yoke 160 revive
    110 CC headset
    Hope PF92/30 BB
    Raceface Next G4
    Roto Oval 30 Chainring
    Race Face pedals
    Nextie assymetric rim 32mm inner, Sapim Xray, 350 Hubs
    Shorty 2,5/ High Roller 2 2,5 1050g/980g
    Syntace 30mm Stem SQ Lab Carbon bar
    Esi Grips
    Specialized Saddle
    13.45kg

    T
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3069.jpg
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3058.jpg

  50. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by muggel View Post
    Hereís my SB130 L Turq frame. The frame weighs 3.18kg with seatpost collar and axle.

    L Frame
    Fox 36 150 Grip2
    Shimano XTR 10-51 12 Speed
    Shimano Saint 180/180
    Bike yoke 160 revive
    110 CC headset
    Hope PF92/30 BB
    Raceface Next G4
    Roto Oval 30 Chainring
    Race Face pedals
    Nextie assymetric rim 32mm inner, Sapim Xray, 350 Hubs
    Shorty 2,5/ High Roller 2 2,5 1050g/980g
    Syntace 30mm Stem SQ Lab Carbon bar
    Esi Grips
    Specialized Saddle
    13.45kg

    T
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wow! First one with Shimano 12 speed. Looks awesome. Howís the clearance in the rear with such a big tire and wider rim?

  51. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by wooly88 View Post
    Wow! First one with Shimano 12 speed. Looks awesome. Howís the clearance in the rear with such a big tire and wider rim?
    No problem it really fits well also now that its muddy season again no touching of the frame. The Highrollers have big side knobbies and no touching. So I guess in dryer areas even a recon 2.6 might work.

  52. #552
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Yeah i usually use all my rear travel and usually 85% of the fork on my hd4.
    I wasnt suggesting turning the 130 into a 150 though. An SB130 LR has a similar geo to the hd4 without the extra 20mm of travel.
    Thats why I'm speculating that the difference might not be that big. Although 2 different shocks, my hd4 has an x2.
    Just trying to talk through the decision between a 130 and 150 as a one bike quiver.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Haha, such good first world problems for us to have, LOL. My gut is if you are coming from a longer travel bike and you are using all of it, stick with a longer travel bike and go SB150. I came the other way from a short travel XC rig, so my sensibility was to only buy as much bike as I needed. Longer travel rigs (like the Ripmo) for me felt "squishier" than I wanted. The SB130 hit my sweet spot. I really enjoy pedaling this thing around! GL.... and hurry up and pull the trigger!

  53. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by muggel View Post
    Hereís my SB130 L Turq frame. The frame weighs 3.18kg with seatpost collar and axle.

    L Frame
    Fox 36 150 Grip2
    Shimano XTR 10-51 12 Speed
    Shimano Saint 180/180
    Bike yoke 160 revive
    110 CC headset
    Hope PF92/30 BB
    Raceface Next G4
    Roto Oval 30 Chainring
    Race Face pedals
    Nextie assymetric rim 32mm inner, Sapim Xray, 350 Hubs
    Shorty 2,5/ High Roller 2 2,5 1050g/980g
    Syntace 30mm Stem SQ Lab Carbon bar
    Esi Grips
    Specialized Saddle
    13.45kg

    T
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Oh man, what an awesome build. How is the XTR 12 speed? If Yeti had offered it in one of it's factory builds I'd have gone with that without hesitation. Have always run Shimano drivetrain prior to my SB130. I dunno, my Eagle does work fine, but I find it a bit more finicky than Shimano!

  54. #554
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    I'm installing a MRP AMg V2 chain guide, and since my cranks haven't arrived yet and I'm impatient, I was just curious if anyone has installed one and how many spacers it required for the appropriate chainline. Thanks.

    So far I've got everything but the XO1 Eagle bits and the Code RSC brakes (I'm a big guy), so right now it's the most expensive balance bike on the whole pump track.

  55. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    Oh man, what an awesome build. How is the XTR 12 speed? If Yeti had offered it in one of it's factory builds I'd have gone with that without hesitation. Have always run Shimano drivetrain prior to my SB130. I dunno, my Eagle does work fine, but I find it a bit more finicky than Shimano!
    I have been running Eagle ever since it was released and was happy with it. The new XTR however is just a smoother ride every shifting is kind of softer - this however is a matter of preference.
    What I really like about the XTR is the dual release which makes shifting much easier when you are up. The setup of XTR is very simple chain length and distance between derailleur and Cassette is very easy to be set up. The only downside so far is the trigger that sometimes is not as defined as Eagle. Also the new Spec EV standard makes it hard to mixmatch.

  56. #556
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    .. (deleted)
    Last edited by jacksonlui; 1 Week Ago at 11:14 AM.

  57. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrPete View Post
    I'm installing a MRP AMg V2 chain guide, and since my cranks haven't arrived yet and I'm impatient, I was just curious if anyone has installed one and how many spacers it required for the appropriate chainline. Thanks.

    So far I've got everything but the XO1 Eagle bits and the Code RSC brakes (I'm a big guy), so right now it's the most expensive balance bike on the whole pump track.
    I try and center the chainwheel inside the guide while making sure the guide doesnít touch the swing arm. HTH!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  58. #558
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    So, an update to the bushing play sagaóI tried emailing Jenson to see if theyd send me some new bushings, and THEY emailed Yeti and also were told that the issue was faulty bushings that needed to be switched out and that Yeti was sending some to Jenson to send out to their customers....

    Definitely think I need to email my CS rep back and let them know. He was awfully confident in his completely contrary answer to my email...

  59. #559
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    What're everyone's thoughts on running a Cane Creek Helm on the SB130? The 29er version is a 51mm offset, so I'm not sure how that would affect the handling.

  60. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeroxoul View Post
    What're everyone's thoughts on running a Cane Creek Helm on the SB130? The 29er version is a 51mm offset, so I'm not sure how that would affect the handling.
    Frame geo is designed around the new fork offset..

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  61. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    Frame geo is designed around the new fork offset..

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
    Unfortunately, it seems you misinterpreted what I asked. My question was structured to imply that I know the frame is set up for 44mm, but that I'm interested in a fork that doesn't fall into that category and I'm worried about how it will perform with a different offset.

  62. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeroxoul View Post
    Unfortunately, it seems you misinterpreted what I asked. My question was structured to imply that I know the frame is set up for 44mm, but that I'm interested in a fork that doesn't fall into that category and I'm worried about how it will perform with a different offset.
    Yes I know and my response is that because the frame was designed around 44mm then going to 51mm would have opposite effect for going to 44mm.. I would think it would impact turning and nimbleness.. slowing both down and taking more effort. Just my .02 as I am not an engineer..

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  63. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeroxoul View Post
    What're everyone's thoughts on running a Cane Creek Helm on the SB130? The 29er version is a 51mm offset, so I'm not sure how that would affect the handling.
    offset is a 1-2% in the speed of the steering. You will adapt within a ride or 2. I like the more on center feel of shorter offset forks. It's not going to fundamentally change the bike in any way.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  64. #564
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    Bottom line: going with the larger offset fork will:
    1) reduce mechanical trail and therefore reduce straight line stability
    2) decrease wheel flop resulting in "slower" steering response

    Whether these things are noticeable/significant, etc.. you'll have to decide for yourself.

    The geometry trend of slack HT + lower offset fork is something it seems most manufacturers are getting on the bandwagon for. I think this combo works exceptionally well and IMO is a big part of why newer "modern-geometry" bikes feel as good and perform as well as they do. Personally I wouldn't make that change.

  65. #565
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    Thanks for the response! I'm really interested in the tunability of this fork, but if it's going to significantly compromise ride, I guess I'll have to go another route.

  66. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeroxoul View Post
    Thanks for the response! I'm really interested in the tunability of this fork, but if it's going to significantly compromise ride, I guess I'll have to go another route.
    If it helps, reduced offset DVO Diamond should be available later this year.

  67. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpress View Post
    Hereís my recently delivered SB130 XL Turq frame. The frame weighs 7.4 lbs with seatpost collar. The build is going to be...

    XL Frame
    Fox 36 150 Grip2 (Push tuned)
    SRAM Eagle X01
    SRAM Guide RSC
    Reverb 170mm w 1x
    Chris King headset
    Enduro PF92/30 BB
    Raceface Turbine 170
    Spank Oozy Trail pedals
    Enve M70HV
    Minion DHF 2.5/Agressor 2.3
    Raceface Atlas stem & bar
    Ergon saddle & grips



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hereís the finished build. Not exactly a lightweight at 31.4lbs. Canít wait to get it on the trails tomorrow.
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-3e44ef42-d29c-4338-9cfd-662cc14d0e35.jpg

  68. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpress View Post
    Hereís the finished build. Not exactly a lightweight at 31.4lbs. Canít wait to get it on the trails tomorrow.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks fantastic. You obviously were going for function over weight with the build selection. I went somewhat in the opposite direction with a large, XX1 build and was in the mid 28 lb range. Weíll see how my parts selection holds up over time. Enjoy the bike!

  69. #569
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    Just took delivery of the SB130 XO1 Race on Monday. Upgrading wheels and brakes if any one is interested. PM direct.

    WHEELSET DT SWISS XM 1501 SPLINE ONE 30MM

    BRAKES SRAM GUIDE RSC

    ROTORS SRAM CENTERLINE 180

  70. #570
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    Iím building mine with a 46mm MRP Ribbon...

  71. #571
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    Is this going to be able to fit an X2?

  72. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    Bottom line: going with the larger offset fork will:
    1) reduce mechanical trail and therefore reduce straight line stability
    2) decrease wheel flop resulting in "slower" steering response
    Not entirely true. There are pros and cons with both:

    Larger offset will:
    1) reduce mechanical trail and therefore reduce straight line stability - correct
    2) decrease wheel flop resulting in "slower" steering response - incorrect

    Improved:
    1) Higher offset (51mm) reduces trail, and reduce straight line stability
    2) Higher offset (51mm) reduces trail, decrease wheel flop, lightens the steering (lower pressure at the handlebar) and quicken the steering response, and gives the bike a more nimble feel.

    Lower offset (44mm) means higher trail thus greater stability BUT lazier, slower steering, and require more steering input to turn.

    https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/a...eriment-45343/

  73. #573
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakster View Post
    Not entirely true. There are pros and cons with both:

    Larger offset will:
    1) reduce mechanical trail and therefore reduce straight line stability - correct
    2) decrease wheel flop resulting in "slower" steering response - incorrect

    Improved:
    1) Higher offset (51mm) reduces trail, and reduce straight line stability
    2) Higher offset (51mm) reduces trail, decrease wheel flop, lightens the steering (lower pressure at the handlebar) and quicken the steering response, and gives the bike a more nimble feel.

    Lower offset (44mm) means higher trail thus greater stability BUT lazier, slower steering, and require more steering input to turn.

    https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/a...eriment-45343/
    Here's another reference:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycl...cycle_geometry

    "A certain amount of wheel flop is generally considered to be desirable. In the magazine Bicycle Quarterly, author Jan Heine wrote, "A bike with too little wheel flop will be sluggish in its reactions to handlebar inputs. A bike with too much wheel flop will tend to veer off its line at low and moderate speeds."

  74. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    Here's another reference:
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycl...cycle_geometry

    "A certain amount of wheel flop is generally considered to be desirable. In the magazine Bicycle Quarterly, author Jan Heine wrote, "A bike with too little wheel flop will be sluggish in its reactions to handlebar inputs. A bike with too much wheel flop will tend to veer off its line at low and moderate speeds."
    Let's be honest "too little" and "too much" is not really an exact science.
    Comparing the same bike with 44 and 51mm offset forks: one setup would be faster steering, and one will be more stable at speed, with slower steering. You can't have both faster steering and more stability on the same offset fork. Pick your poison.

    I do think there is an "shorter offset" marketing bandwagon around, sell more bikes!!!

    The SB130 is designed around an 44 offset fork, but a 51 offset fork will have other pros and cons. However, the impact could actually be very minimal, other than selling more product!

  75. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by xeroxoul View Post
    Thanks for the response! I'm really interested in the tunability of this fork, but if it's going to significantly compromise ride, I guess I'll have to go another route.
    For the record.. I'm running my pike 51 mm offset... There is nothing abnormal about the ride that I can tell between my frame build and the demoing I did.. The plan was to use the pike for now and save for 44 offset fork it it was a noticeable issue.. But honestly, Thi k I'm going to just run it and upgrade in other areas... For me, it is an non issue!

  76. #576
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build



    Hot off the oven. XT build with XT 4pot and Lyrik RC2. Lyrik has a 42mm offset so itís pretty close to Fox 36 44mm offset. Wheels are WeAreOne Agent with CK hubs.
    Last edited by leeto01; 3 Days Ago at 07:58 AM.

  77. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by leeto01 View Post

    Hot off the oven. XT build with XT 4pot and Lyrik RC2. Lyrik has a 42mm offset so itís pretty close to Fox 36 44mm offset.
    Nice! Did you go 150 or 160 on the fork?

  78. #578
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    Quote Originally Posted by jakster View Post
    Let's be honest "too little" and "too much" is not really an exact science.
    Comparing the same bike with 44 and 51mm offset forks: one setup would be faster steering, and one will be more stable at speed, with slower steering. You can't have both faster steering and more stability on the same offset fork. Pick your poison.

    I do think there is an "shorter offset" marketing bandwagon around, sell more bikes!!!

    The SB130 is designed around an 44 offset fork, but a 51 offset fork will have other pros and cons. However, the impact could actually be very minimal, other than selling more product!
    Haha, yes, manufacturers do want to sell more bikes for sure, and making generational changes enables that. But I do like the way bikes have been evolving....

    I definitely agree that there are tradeoffs, and not being argumentative. The way I would describe the feeling of the greater flop with increased trail is that you definitely need more steering force to move the bars off line as it tends to want to track straight. The other impact is that the wheel/bike tends to want to drop as the wheel turns in, which tends to steer the bike harder after the initial turn in (more force to bring it back straight as well). Thinking about my first description, it probably wasn't the most precise way to go so I'll align with you.

    Good discussion. Also glad to hear others are successful with a 51mm fork too. Peace and ride on!

  79. #579
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    Just ordered a set of We Are One Agents with I9 hubs, cant wait to get them.
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0

  80. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by YetiKK View Post
    Nice! Did you go 150 or 160 on the fork?
    I went with 160mm but am prepared to try 150mm later by changing the shaft if 160mm doesnít work too well for me.

  81. #581
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Just ordered a set of We Are One Agents with I9 hubs, cant wait to get them.
    Best wheels ever made
    Yeti SB130
    Yeti SB100
    Yeti SB5.5
    Trans Sentinel
    Ibis Ripmo
    Yeti SB4.5
    Orbea Rallon
    Devinci Spartan
    Devinci Troy

  82. #582
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    Curious. What makes them better than other carbon rims?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  83. #583
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    I really had a hard time deciding between the Agents and the Insider. Still a little unsure but I thought the 30mm may give me a lot more traction with a minimum of weight penalty.


    As far as best, I canít speak to that as they are my first set. But they are designed and laid In House in Canada so they are supposed to be very well made. Also best warranty in the business. You break a wheel they send you a new one. Period.

  84. #584
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Curious. What makes them better than other carbon rims?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    1- Price to performance ratio is outstanding you can get a set laced and ready with hope Pro 4 or DT 350 hubs and saphim spikes for $1300.

    2- Ride quality is outstanding as they are not harsh feeling at all with just the right amount of Damping/compliance but laterally stiff in the corners and donít get deflected when your trying to hold a line.

    3- Fit and finish is the best Iíve ever seen. The natural raw carbon is drop dead gorgeous and mounting various brand and sizes of tires has been problem free. They hold air over longer amounts of time than my previous brands of wheels with the same exact tape and valves.

    4- the Warranty is second to none. WAO and Santa Cruz lead this category and no questions asked replacement built and ready with new hub and spikes before you have to send back the broken wheel.

    5- Made in North America by a person and persons who you could talk to on the phone if you really wanted to. The videos available of the way they manufacture and design the wheels tells the story on why you should buy these.

  85. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    I really had a hard time deciding between the Agents and the Insider. Still a little unsure but I thought the 30mm may give me a lot more traction with a minimum of weight penalty.
    I had the same dilemma and chose the Agents as well for my SB130.

  86. #586
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    Sounds solid. I didnt know about these wheels till just now.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  87. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by leeto01 View Post
    I had the same dilemma and chose the Agents as well for my SB130.
    Happy with them? Pics?
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0

  88. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Sounds solid. I didnt know about these wheels till just now.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    You didnt hear this from me, but there is a Black Friday sale coming up....
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0

  89. #589
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    You didnt hear this from me, but there is a Black Friday sale coming up....
    Which is why I've literally removed wheelsets from my shopping cart on more than one site recently... lol! The real question will be, can I get the frame I want at a good discount next week.

  90. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    You didnt hear this from me, but there is a Black Friday sale coming up....
    Thx. Ive already ordered my rims from EIE. 29mm IW.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  91. #591
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    When ordering an absolute black oval, are you supposed to order the boost version?
    On my hd4, i was told to order non boost which seems to work fine.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  92. #592
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    Yes. Boost.
    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    When ordering an absolute black oval, are you supposed to order the boost version?
    On my hd4, i was told to order non boost which seems to work fine.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  93. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Yes. Boost.
    Thx. Getting my frame soon. So excited. No parts yet, itll give me time to tape up the frame. Medium black

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  94. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by YetiKK View Post
    Which is why I've literally removed wheelsets from my shopping cart on more than one site recently... lol! The real question will be, can I get the frame I want at a good discount next week.
    LBS said Yeti is posting a price increase next month. Whether that's frames only or fully kitted bikes IDK?
    2019 SB130
    2019 SB100
    2018 Followingv2
    2017 SB5
    2016 SB55
    2016 Wreckoning
    2016 SB45
    2015 SB6
    2015 Following

  95. #595
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    Thats ridiculous. They will soon price dentists out.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  96. #596
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    Iím on WAO Agents on I9 with CX-Ray spokes. Very happy so far. For what itís worth, taped with valves weighs 1762 grams.

  97. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by muggel View Post
    Hereís my SB130 L Turq frame. The frame weighs 3.18kg with seatpost collar and axle.

    L Frame
    Fox 36 150 Grip2
    Shimano XTR 10-51 12 Speed
    Shimano Saint 180/180
    Bike yoke 160 revive
    110 CC headset
    Hope PF92/30 BB
    Raceface Next G4
    Roto Oval 30 Chainring
    Race Face pedals
    Nextie assymetric rim 32mm inner, Sapim Xray, 350 Hubs
    Shorty 2,5/ High Roller 2 2,5 1050g/980g
    Syntace 30mm Stem SQ Lab Carbon bar
    Esi Grips
    Specialized Saddle
    13.45kg

    T
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Gorgeous build!

    By any chance, have you thrown a rear wheel with an Eagle cassette on there? Still havenít found a definitive answer on cog spacing compatibility, though Iím guessing they work together aok.

    Currently running a TRS 11sp 9-46 on a XD driver hub. If I can run the new XTR with an eagle cassette, Iíll make the change for sure.

    If anyone knows for sure one way or another, please give a shout!

  98. #598
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    Hope

    [QUOTE= Quote Originally Posted by eastwoodLB View Post
    How you guys see the Sb130 in comparison to the Sb 5.5 ? Will it be the better all rounder ?[/QUOTE]

    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    It will be a better fitting bike. A wider range of adjustment and comfort with the ability to size up or down and get the exact dropper length that works best.

    I think ride performance wise it'll be an improvement but it takes some adjustment with body positioning to feel comfy with a bike that has a steep STA and and the more forward riding position. Once you buy into the forward weighted riding style the bike will sing.

    The WB numbers are where some will feel duped but it all works in conjunction with the Geo and the bike will ride smaller and tighter than you'd expect.
    I test rode the 130 and own the 5.5. For me the 5.5 is more versatile with the 130 excelling in a few areas. But to your point, you end up using different muscles on the 130 so it'll take time to adjust.

    Here's my take compared to the 5.5

    130 Pros:

    1. Better climber, with a caveat
    2. More planted, flows through trails a bit better. More poppy then the 5.5


    130 Cons:
    1. The new geo puts you in a different riding position so for me, it used my upper quads way more
    2. Since it puts your torso up over the bars, it places added strain on your hands
    3. Rides harsher than the 5.5, perhaps since I rode a Turq build


    In short, the 2 areas that stood out on the 130 was how quickly it gets up to speed and how well it plants in turns, with the caveat being that if you need to climb for any distance on the seat, it will feel odd. You'll end up using new muscles that aren't adapted to the 130 and you'll struggle quickly (at least I did). Again, for quick bursts, the 130 clearly shines compared to the 5.5. Any seated climbing will take time for your muscles to adapt since the riding position is so different.

    Downhills were good and it seems to ride more predictable when navigating turns at speed - it just tracks and plants better with less drifting. But I would say the 5.5 seems like it can handler higher speeds with more comfort. The 130 feels more precise and stiff as well.

    Other than these two areas where the separation is more evident, I'd say the 5.5 is a pretty darn good overall package. The 130 to me felt really uncomfortable climbing while in the seat. I also never could get the right seat height when going from downhill to seated climbing....Also felt odd to me.

    If you value a bike that can quickly spin up to speed and only ride short transitions, this might be for you. If you ride a lot quick switchbacks with short uphills where don't spend a lot of time climbing on the seat, it also may be a fit. I think there are better overall package options to choose from that probably cost less too.

    For me the 130 showed moments of brilliance, but at a cost elsewhere. Maybe a month on the 130 would change my mind, but may hands are sore right now and my legs are hurting. Long live the 5.5.

  99. #599
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    Got my medium black turq frame in and it weighs 3110g or 6.86lbs with the axle, seat clamp, shock, der hanger, cage screws. A bit heavier than expected. I was surprised the dpx2 was 425g. For 73g more, the x2 would be a good upgrade. Anyways, enough of the weight weenie stuff.
    The quality seems nice. Not better or worse than the Ibis's I've had. The serial number is a sticker whereas on the Ibis it seemed to be part of the frame, not sure how they did that.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  100. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti_SB View Post
    I test rode the 130 and own the 5.5. For me the 5.5 is more versatile with the 130 excelling in a few areas. But to your point, you end up using different muscles on the 130 so it'll take time to adjust.

    Here's my take compared to the 5.5

    130 Pros:

    1. Better climber, with a caveat
    2. More planted, flows through trails a bit better. More poppy then the 5.5


    130 Cons:
    1. The new geo puts you in a different riding position so for me, it used my upper quads way more
    2. Since it puts your torso up over the bars, it places added strain on your hands
    3. Rides harsher than the 5.5, perhaps since I rode a Turq build


    In short, the 2 areas that stood out on the 130 was how quickly it gets up to speed and how well it plants in turns, with the caveat being that if you need to climb for any distance on the seat, it will feel odd. You'll end up using new muscles that aren't adapted to the 130 and you'll struggle quickly (at least I did). Again, for quick bursts, the 130 clearly shines compared to the 5.5. Any seated climbing will take time for your muscles to adapt since the riding position is so different.

    Downhills were good and it seems to ride more predictable when navigating turns at speed - it just tracks and plants better with less drifting. But I would say the 5.5 seems like it can handler higher speeds with more comfort. The 130 feels more precise and stiff as well.

    Other than these two areas where the separation is more evident, I'd say the 5.5 is a pretty darn good overall package. The 130 to me felt really uncomfortable climbing while in the seat. I also never could get the right seat height when going from downhill to seated climbing....Also felt odd to me.

    If you value a bike that can quickly spin up to speed and only ride short transitions, this might be for you. If you ride a lot quick switchbacks with short uphills where don't spend a lot of time climbing on the seat, it also may be a fit. I think there are better overall package options to choose from that probably cost less too.

    For me the 130 showed moments of brilliance, but at a cost elsewhere. Maybe a month on the 130 would change my mind, but may hands are sore right now and my legs are hurting. Long live the 5.5.

    Thanks for the great comparison, thatís exactly what I was looking for. Seems the 5.5 is still on top of its game.

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