Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build - Page 14- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1301
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Pretty sure I saw a medium on Pinkbike this week.

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    I made an offer to buy but the seller didnt reply, then it was sold the next afternoon.
    Still looking Medium Black would be first pick. already have a blue one.
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  2. #1302
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    Ive had my 130 for about 2 months now. I've taken it down the steeps in Laguna and got say I am very surprised!! Took it down Repo Man, Art School, Telonics, Five oaks, Mentally Sensitive, Etc. The bike more then held its own down the nasty steep loose chutes that we have. The geometry just works, lovin the bike so far!!

  3. #1303
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    Nice! Tight!

    I guess my tube got some air in it and could not get it compressed nearly as much as you. Is that a 29" tube? I've heard some some people carry a smaller tube because it stretches out anyway....
    29" but I seem to have the knack for getting all the air out. Make sure you do the valve up when all the air is out as it can suck air back in. I usually roll it first, do the valve up, then unroll and fold. It is a fairly lightweight tube too, so maybe it just folds up smaller. Aside from this location, there isn't really anywhere else you can put them on the SB130 without it looking bad. I can't use my saddle strap I have as my 170mm dropper will drag the tube on the tyre under full compression!
    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod138327
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  4. #1304
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    Is this bike a native 160 mm or 180 mm for the rear?

    Anyone? Where did everybody go? Hopefully out riding instead of killing time on here! I'm ordering parts for custom build and simply need to know if it requires an adapter for 180mm rotor in the rear, or is it native 180? Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by RAG2; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:34 AM.

  5. #1305
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    Is this bike a native 160 mm or 180 mm for the rear?

    Anyone? Where did everybody go? Hopefully out riding instead of killing time on here! I'm ordering parts for custom build and simply need to know if it requires an adapter for 180mm rotor in the rear, or is it native 180? Thanks in advance!
    180mm rotor is standard.

  6. #1306
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    Is this bike a native 160 mm or 180 mm for the rear?

    Anyone? Where did everybody go? Hopefully out riding instead of killing time on here! I'm ordering parts for custom build and simply need to know if it requires an adapter for 180mm rotor in the rear, or is it native 180? Thanks in advance!
    You would have saved yourself the wait by taking a look at the Yeti model site. Give it a shot next time. Plenty of specs there.

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  7. #1307
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    Is this bike a native 160 mm or 180 mm for the rear?

    Anyone? Where did everybody go? Hopefully out riding instead of killing time on here! I'm ordering parts for custom build and simply need to know if it requires an adapter for 180mm rotor in the rear, or is it native 180? Thanks in advance!
    To answer the question, it is native 180mm front and rear (i.e. you canít run anything smaller than that). So you only need an adaptor to go up from 180mm.

  8. #1308
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    To answer the question, it is native 180mm front and rear (i.e. you canít run anything smaller than that). So you only need an adaptor to go up from 180mm.
    Bingo. Thank you! I knew it came with 180 F & R, just didnt know if rear was native 180mm (no adapter). I was thrown off because the shop I ordered the frame through told me to get an adapter, yet I didn't remember it having an adapter from my demo. Definitely stoked it's a native 180!
    Last edited by RAG2; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:17 AM.

  9. #1309
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    This is the way I'm leaning - building up the 130 with a Fox 34 and 2.3 tires (same ones as on the SB100).

    FWIW I asked Nate Hills (who like skinnybex has obviously spent a fair bit of time on both the 100 and 130) the question too and he had the same reply as skinnybex: go with a more trail-oriented build on the SB130 vs a SB100.
    Fox 34 maximum travel is 140mm in 29er? Is there a way to get it to 150mm?

    Iíve got my SB130 down to 27.5 lbs: Enve m630s, Enve bar and stem, rekons, revive post, light saddle and pedals. Got tired of push the slow tired w cushcore.

  10. #1310
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpzeroday View Post
    Fox 34 maximum travel is 140mm in 29er? Is there a way to get it to 150mm?

    Iíve got my SB130 down to 27.5 lbs: Enve m630s, Enve bar and stem, rekons, revive post, light saddle and pedals. Got tired of push the slow tired w cushcore.

    It is not recommended to extend the 34 beyond 140mm because of bushing overlap. It's possible to extend the fork past the lower bushing at 150 and destroy the fork. Plus it would get way to flexible at that length. The 36 is completely worth the .5lb weight penalty.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  11. #1311
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    It is not recommended to extend the 34 beyond 140mm because of bushing overlap. It's possible to extend the fork past the lower bushing at 150 and destroy the fork. Plus it would get way to flexible at that length. The 36 is completely worth the .5lb weight penalty.
    The scott genius is just one bike that comes to mind with a Fox 34 at 150mm from the factory....
    Denver, CO

  12. #1312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    The scott genius is just one bike that comes to mind with a Fox 34 at 150mm from the factory....
    Your right they must have the lower bushings set at 27.5 depth. If u where really handy you could reset you bushings in your 29er lowers. Still not my first choice if u weight above 160 or ride aggressively.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    The scott genius is just one bike that comes to mind with a Fox 34 at 150mm from the factory....
    The SB5 plus also came with a 34/150

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    You can also do the new Pike at 150mm. You can read about it on other forums and that Competitive Cyclist will do it for you. A little stiffer fork than the 34mm and about a 30-40 gram weight difference. Also, if Scott is doing it on their Genius models you can be rest assured that there are no issues.

  15. #1315
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    Yeti SB5 models have come that way for 5 years Fox 34 150mm fork with no problems
    Yeti SB150
    Yeti SB130
    Yeti SB100
    Yeti SB5.5
    Trans Sentinel
    Orbea Rallon
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  16. #1316
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    Remember when fox 32 came in 160mm. Those where the good old days. 😜
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  17. #1317
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    True ^^^ I have one. Who want's the whole bike lol


    Oops late to the party. This was in response to the Scott Genius 150 Fox 34 at 150 post.

  18. #1318
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    Hey all, bought an SB130 about a week ago, very happy with it.

    However, my DPX2 is making a squelching sound during and after compression. Has anyone had this before? It sounds like air might be mixing with oil in one of the chamber. The sound is there no matter what rebound or compression setting. Thoughts?

  19. #1319
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    What is everyone using for downtube protection on their 130s? Just picked up a new Turq-colored 130 and coming from a matte SB5.5 am very wary of the likelihood this glossy paint is more prone to chip. Am considering having my shop wrap the downtube and rear triangle, but curious what others have done. Thanks!

  20. #1320
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    If anyone is looking or considering a coil for the SB130 I have a brand new Push ElevenSix that I'm going to sell. Its set up for the SB130 , 425lb Spring (160-170lb rider).
    This shock was riden 4 times then I sold my Frame to SHAHEEB from this Forum.

    PM me if your interested.

  21. #1321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endubro45 View Post
    What is everyone using for downtube protection on their 130s? Just picked up a new Turq-colored 130 and coming from a matte SB5.5 am very wary of the likelihood this glossy paint is more prone to chip. Am considering having my shop wrap the downtube and rear triangle, but curious what others have done. Thanks!
    Invisiframe

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  22. #1322
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    Invisiframe

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    Cool - my local bike shop (Frame Up in the Bay Area) installs that, will go with that!

    Thanks!

  23. #1323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endubro45 View Post
    Cool - my local bike shop (Frame Up in the Bay Area) installs that, will go with that!

    Thanks!
    They are local to me as wellgreat guys

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  24. #1324
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradical View Post
    If anyone is looking or considering a coil for the SB130 I have a brand new Push ElevenSix that I'm going to sell. Its set up for the SB130 , 425lb Spring (160-170lb rider).
    This shock was riden 4 times then I sold my Frame to SHAHEEB from this Forum.

    PM me if your interested.
    may I ask, why did you sell your frame? what is the new frame?

  25. #1325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endubro45 View Post
    What is everyone using for downtube protection on their 130s? Just picked up a new Turq-colored 130 and coming from a matte SB5.5 am very wary of the likelihood this glossy paint is more prone to chip. Am considering having my shop wrap the downtube and rear triangle, but curious what others have done. Thanks!
    I'm ordering mine from Ridewrap.ca from Whistler Canada.
    https://www.ridewrap.ca/products/yet...-kit-tailored/

  26. #1326
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    If anyone interested in Europe I am selling my large SB130 frame as I have moved to a Medium size. Please PN to me. Thanks

  27. #1327
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    Quote Originally Posted by muggel View Post
    If anyone interested in Europe I am selling my large SB130 frame as I have moved to a Medium size. Please PN to me. Thanks
    Hi Muggel,

    Just sent you a PM about the frame

  28. #1328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endubro45 View Post
    What is everyone using for downtube protection on their 130s? Just picked up a new Turq-colored 130 and coming from a matte SB5.5 am very wary of the likelihood this glossy paint is more prone to chip. Am considering having my shop wrap the downtube and rear triangle, but curious what others have done. Thanks!
    Check out bike shelter tape.. Mec has it or amazon.. Its thick light and dampens impacts. I've used it in my last three builds.. Its about 3mm thick...

    Good stuff

  29. #1329
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    I purchased a kit from Upland Stoke for my SB130 and it is spot on with ease in putting on and frame protection coverage.
    You may want to check them out as well

    https://uplndstoke.com



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  30. #1330
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    Is anyone running a DHR II WT on their SB130? Just wondering if there's ample clearance for the 2.4 tyre. As a reference this would be on XM1501 30mm internal wheels.

    I'm demo'ing an SB130 tomorrow. They are pretty rare in the UK and the importer doesn't have any in stock at present. In either complete bike or frame. They are due more at the end of the month.

    I've been amassing parts over the last few months to do an X01 Race self build. I can achieve this build (which isn't even available in the UK) cheaper than the X01 build.

    Hopefully I've made the right decision to replace my SB4.5 with the SB130. I've owned the 4.5 for almost 3 years and it's been excellent. So the SB130 needs to improve on that.

  31. #1331
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    If you are looking for a bike that will be as light as an x01 race 4.5 build (27-28lbs), the sb130 isn't it.

    It pedals similarly, but has much better descending properties.

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  32. #1332
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    Is anyone running a DHR II WT on their SB130? Just wondering if there's ample clearance for the 2.4 tyre. As a reference this would be on XM1501 30mm internal wheels.

    I'm demo'ing an SB130 tomorrow. They are pretty rare in the UK and the importer doesn't have any in stock at present. In either complete bike or frame. They are due more at the end of the month.

    I've been amassing parts over the last few months to do an X01 Race self build. I can achieve this build (which isn't even available in the UK) cheaper than the X01 build.

    Hopefully I've made the right decision to replace my SB4.5 with the SB130. I've owned the 4.5 for almost 3 years and it's been excellent. So the SB130 needs to improve on that.
    DHR II would surely fit. I had no problem putting on an Aggressor 2.5 during my 2-day demo, with ample room. I've ran it quite a bit,...DHR ii an undersized 2.4 anyways...wish they'd make a 2.5 DHRii similar in size to the DHF 2.5.

  33. #1333
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    If you are looking for a bike that will be as light as an x01 race 4.5 build (27-28lbs), the sb130 isn't it.

    It pedals similarly, but has much better descending properties.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    You can get pretty damn close! I'm running a 140mm pike on mine, xx1 Eagle, Highroller front, ardent race rear for my more trail/xc days... It performs beautifully with this set up and is still plenty capable on the downs.. Climbs better than my buddies with the standard 36 dhf/dhrii config and just feels more nimble... His takes the win in the gnar however.

    Feels like a beefed up sb100 to me..

  34. #1334
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    Quote Originally Posted by m.westsc View Post
    I purchased a kit from Upland Stoke for my SB130 and it is spot on with ease in putting on and frame protection coverage.
    You may want to check them out as well

    https://uplndstoke.com



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    How would it be any different from Invisi-frame, if you know?

  35. #1335
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    How would it be any different from Invisi-frame, if you know?

    Honestly, Iím not familiar with Invisaframe and their offerings so couldnít give an objective opinion. Only have my experience with Upland Stoke to relay as another possible option to look into.



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  36. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    If you are looking for a bike that will be as light as an x01 race 4.5 build (27-28lbs), the sb130 isn't it.

    It pedals similarly, but has much better descending properties.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    Thanks rondre3000. I'm not looking for a direct replacement. I'm looking for a burlier trail bike. My SB4.5 is very capable for a short travel trail bike but it does have its limitations.

    I'm hoping the SB130 provides the same climbing and mile munching capability, albeit in a slightly heavier guise, as it will be predominately a trail bike after all but with even greater descending capability.

    From a weight perspective the only difference will be the difference in frame and forks compared with my SB4.5. And I'll compensate that with running X01 Eagle over X01 11 speed

  37. #1337
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    DHR II would surely fit. I had no problem putting on an Aggressor 2.5 during my 2-day demo, with ample room. I've ran it quite a bit,...DHR ii an undersized 2.4 anyways...wish they'd make a 2.5 DHRii similar in size to the DHF 2.5.
    Good to know. Thanks RAG2. I've got the standard Aggressor available for the build now. I generally run DHF/DHR II or DHF/Aggressor combinations. Anything wider is not possible in the rear of the SB4.5 so the WT variants of these options in the SB130 would be my preference.

  38. #1338
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    Good to know. Thanks RAG2. I've got the standard Aggressor available for the build now. I generally run DHF/DHR II or DHF/Aggressor combinations. Anything wider is not possible in the rear of the SB4.5 so the WT variants of these options in the SB130 would be my preference.
    I'm running the 2.4 DHRII WT currently and it's my tire of choice. I ran 2.5 Aggressor and had a little rubbing. 2.3 Aggressor was fine but felt a little imbalanced grip wise F/R. The 2.4 to me had the best combination of grip/weight/clearance for my riding. Really love it. BTW I'm running XMC1200 30mm internal width wheels. GL!

  39. #1339
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    Thanks rondre3000. I'm not looking for a direct replacement. I'm looking for a burlier trail bike. My SB4.5 is very capable for a short travel trail bike but it does have its limitations.

    I'm hoping the SB130 provides the same climbing and mile munching capability, albeit in a slightly heavier guise, as it will be predominately a trail bike after all but with even greater descending capability.

    From a weight perspective the only difference will be the difference in frame and forks compared with my SB4.5. And I'll compensate that with running X01 Eagle over X01 11 speed
    I think you'll be very happy then. Maybe I'm misunderstanding your last line but Eagle x01 does weigh more than 11sp x01. For a size large Turq build with DHF/Aggressor tires and no carbon wheels I'd figure you'd be around 30-31lbs.

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  40. #1340
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    anyone interested in a trade for color preference reason's? Have a mint sb130 turq in yeti flagship turqouise and would prefer to have a black one. size medium.
    only reason is because i have a blue sb150 also.

    cheers.

    feel free to Pm if interested
    Jesus Saves

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  41. #1341
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_4996.jpg

    If there is anyone with a GX or GX comp build that wants a shock upgrade, I need a black shock off one of those builds for a custom build so I'd be willing to trade plus $100. Message me if interested.

  42. #1342
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    Sent PM

  43. #1343
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    Just an update to my SB130 so far after 3 1/2 months of ownership and 500 miles of riding on it.

    The bike is outstanding in almost every aspect and it's currently my preffered choice for almost every ride since it feels like it has more rear travel than it does but that doesn't translate to a portly or slow handling bike up or down and it's so good in even tight situations where you'd think the long wheelbase would hang it up but it doesn't.

    A couple of changes I'll make are first I'm reducing my front fork travel on my Grip2 from 160mm to 150mm since I have the SB150 and I wanna get back the little extra nimbleness and advantage of going back to the stock Geo regarding HTA where it'll be even better on the climbs and fast and flowy terrain.

    Along with restoring the front end to 150mm travel I'll be putting on 170mm cranks as I currently run 175mm cranks since the bottom bracket will drop lower to the stock height. I've drastically reduced pedal strikes just getting more used to the geo and the way the bike rides and since it's so snappy and quick to accelerate I can usually power through techy ledges and rock gardens without the need to pedal or ratchet much at all.

    Initially I ran the DPX2 stock with 255psi and had quite a few bottom outs although the shock felt great in all other aspects and was very supportive. Then I added a .60 light blue spacer which improved the bottom outs and I was able to reduce PSI to 250 but on a whim I changed recently to the .86 dark blue volume spacer and finally the shock is perfect for my liking and has outstanding ramp up and a lively feel running 245 psi for my 31% sag I've settled on.

    My down tube protector is still looking fine and I've yet to want to change to the new revised DT piece and I have very little dirt or grit built up.

    Love the bike so much and I can safely say it gets better each and every ride as I've put all my miles on it in Sedona, ST. George, Hurricane, Vegas, Moab, Fruita and Grand Junction trails riding pretty Gnarly and technical trails both up and down.
    Yeti SB150
    Yeti SB130
    Yeti SB100
    Yeti SB5.5
    Trans Sentinel
    Orbea Rallon
    Devinci Spartan
    Devinci Troy

  44. #1344
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    Has anyone found a fender or made a diy fender for the rear? Looking to protect the Switch finity from getting gunked up and potentially having rocks lodged near the chainstay/ seattube area

  45. #1345
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn1ck View Post
    Has anyone found a fender or made a diy fender for the rear? Looking to protect the Switch finity from getting gunked up and potentially having rocks lodged near the chainstay/ seattube area
    Here is a link to a review of the SB150. One of the commenters on the article had a suggestion for a rear fender. https://nsmb.com/articles/2019-yeti-...ticle-comments

  46. #1346
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn1ck View Post
    Has anyone found a fender or made a diy fender for the rear? Looking to protect the Switch finity from getting gunked up and potentially having rocks lodged near the chainstay/ seattube area
    Mudhugger. There's a fender thread in the Norcal Forum. I've used it and it was great on my 130 until I caught it with my leg and broke it!

  47. #1347
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    I'm a little bit disappointed and underwhelmed with the SB130 demo I've just had if I'm honest.

    I wanted a bike to replace my 4.5 with and on paper this ticked a lot of the boxes that I felt were the 4.5 shortcomings. Extra travel, burlier bike, etc. whilst still benefitting from the Yeti/SI attributes.

    As reference my '16 4.5 is the stock x01 version running what was the '16 5.5 wheel set (350s/XM481).

    I travelled to an unfamiliar riding location yesterday to demo a large SB130 in X01 guise. A quick sag setup on the forks (non really on the DPX2 although air pressures were adjusted) and I was off on a 10km demo circuit at a trail centre with plenty of fireroad climbing / traversing and a mixture of red and black descents.

    The bike felt shorter than what I was expecting. All this talk of longer reach is offset by the steeper seat angle. It also felt a little low on the front end. The feel of the front end felt different and I wasn't particularly overly-confident with the front end. Although it didn't really misbehave.

    I also felt the bike was sluggish. It didn't surge. Granted, with the extra weight I didn't expect it to climb like the 4.5 but it didn't feel particular quick on the flat. Or for that matter on the descents. The 4.5 accelerates yet I didn't get this sensation with the SB130.

    Although it didn't 'feel' heavy I felt it rode 'heavy'. It was difficult to pick the front wheel up. Difficult to 'pop' the bike. Even hopping the bike.

    I could go on but basically I was expecting a burlier 4.5 and didn't get that. It was something else. Something I wasn't necessarily convinced by for parting money for. Even though I've amassed parts to self build the X01 Race version.

    There could be lots of factors to this. Riding unfamiliar trails. The stock M1700 wheel set and grabby XT brakes. Not getting the suspension dialled better. Just having a bad riding day.

    Generally when demo'ing bikes previously you get the bike for the weekend and ride on familiar trails to give you a great comparison. I was sold after the 4.5 demo and it had the xc tune shock and duff rear brake with minimal shock setup in the shop.

    So, did I just have a bad demo experience (it was the last demo slot of the day)? Do I need more time on the bike with more focus on setup? Did anybody else have an uncertain demo experience? The SB130 just didn't seem to reflect the bike reviews and user feedback I'd read and what I was expecting.

    And with that in mind I couldn't see what advantages this bike gave me over my 4.5.

  48. #1348
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    Great demo input. I was blown away by my 130 demo. On familiar trails. Took the time to set it up; took along shock pump and mini tool. I'm a Cat 1 XC racer and like my HT and short travel 29ers, and was thoroughly impressed with the 130 in sprints and powerful ascents. Only reasons I have not bought one yet is the SI issues (that my local dealer obviously says are just 1 or 2 guys online blowing things out of proportion, ha), price and I'm waiting to see what comes out after Sea Otter, and if I truly want a 130/150 bike. Oh, and the local Yeti tribe thing is a huge turnoff. Silly, I know.

    I'm 5'10" with 32" pant inseam. The medium reach and effective toptube were perfect, and I thought the stack didn't feel too low. I even like more upright positions to get the quads and glutes into all day seated climbing. FWIW, I liked the large SB100 better than the medium SB100 that the dealer insisted I would fit better.

    Long story short, my 130 demo was so good that I still OCD talk about the bike to my friends who are all in the same new frame/bike buying mode when Sea Otter comes around.

  49. #1349
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    Thanks westin

    I can't help feeling that something wasn't right with the bike to be honest. Plus I only got an hour / 12km riding it on unfamiliar trails. It was so underwhelming. Which is contrary to a lot of the reviews and like yours, user feedback.

    I'll try and make contact with the local dealer and see if I can arrange a weekend demo. At least I can spend more time with the bike and dial in my own settings. That way I can properly rule it out.

  50. #1350
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    BTW westin, what SI issues? I've had an SB4.5 for 3 years now and I've had zero SI issues. I apply grease every 4-6 weeks and it had a full strip and re-build after 2 years (which I'm told it didn't really need due to the regular maintenance/greasing).

  51. #1351
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    BTW westin, what SI issues? I've had an SB4.5 for 3 years now and I've had zero SI issues. I apply grease every 4-6 weeks and it had a full strip and re-build after 2 years (which I'm told it didn't really need due to the regular maintenance/greasing).
    The SB130 vs SB4.5 arenít even remotely close to being similar in what your looking for. Your expectations would never be met if thatís what you were expecting. The SB130 is a full 2 degrees slacker and has almost a 45mm longer wheelbase. This all contributes to how the bike feels on trail.

    I can tell you my SB100 is better for me than the SB4.5 in almost every aspect and that is the bike to compare the 4.5 too.

    I get it though that you want slightly more travel and something a bit burlier where you can tackle Gnarlier tracks and the SB130 excels at that but itís quite a different riding style adjustment to get the bike to handle the way youíd likely want it to.

    Remember the stack is different and adjustment would make the front end feel better. Also I run high PSI in the fork and pretty fast rebound to make the front end feel more alive.

    I know you understand plenty about what you like and feel and you get the Geo difference but the extremely slacker HTA of 65.5 vs 67.4 and the WB of 1230mm vs 1188mm make a huge difference.

  52. #1352
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    BTW the reason I say I like to run a Higher PSI on my fork which equates to around 20% Sag is so the front end rides higher in the travel when pedaling flat track sections and climbs but when I start to descend the fork still feels amazing and supportive and eats up big hits and my mistakes

  53. #1353
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    I'm a little bit disappointed and underwhelmed with the SB130 demo I've just had if I'm honest.

    I wanted a bike to replace my 4.5 with and on paper this ticked a lot of the boxes that I felt were the 4.5 shortcomings. Extra travel, burlier bike, etc. whilst still benefitting from the Yeti/SI attributes.

    As reference my '16 4.5 is the stock x01 version running what was the '16 5.5 wheel set (350s/XM481).

    I travelled to an unfamiliar riding location yesterday to demo a large SB130 in X01 guise. A quick sag setup on the forks (non really on the DPX2 although air pressures were adjusted) and I was off on a 10km demo circuit at a trail centre with plenty of fireroad climbing / traversing and a mixture of red and black descents.

    The bike felt shorter than what I was expecting. All this talk of longer reach is offset by the steeper seat angle. It also felt a little low on the front end. The feel of the front end felt different and I wasn't particularly overly-confident with the front end. Although it didn't really misbehave.

    I also felt the bike was sluggish. It didn't surge. Granted, with the extra weight I didn't expect it to climb like the 4.5 but it didn't feel particular quick on the flat. Or for that matter on the descents. The 4.5 accelerates yet I didn't get this sensation with the SB130.

    Although it didn't 'feel' heavy I felt it rode 'heavy'. It was difficult to pick the front wheel up. Difficult to 'pop' the bike. Even hopping the bike.

    I could go on but basically I was expecting a burlier 4.5 and didn't get that. It was something else. Something I wasn't necessarily convinced by for parting money for. Even though I've amassed parts to self build the X01 Race version.

    There could be lots of factors to this. Riding unfamiliar trails. The stock M1700 wheel set and grabby XT brakes. Not getting the suspension dialled better. Just having a bad riding day.

    Generally when demo'ing bikes previously you get the bike for the weekend and ride on familiar trails to give you a great comparison. I was sold after the 4.5 demo and it had the xc tune shock and duff rear brake with minimal shock setup in the shop.

    So, did I just have a bad demo experience (it was the last demo slot of the day)? Do I need more time on the bike with more focus on setup? Did anybody else have an uncertain demo experience? The SB130 just didn't seem to reflect the bike reviews and user feedback I'd read and what I was expecting.

    And with that in mind I couldn't see what advantages this bike gave me over my 4.5.
    Difficult to say if it was crap setup or not since you donít know what settings were used but sounds like it may have played a part. Lack of pop sounds like too much damping. You didnít adjust damping at all? Too low of a spring rate in the rear would contribute to sluggish feel. Also the extra weight and travel of the bike compared to SB4.5 would have affected how it felt. SB130 climbs ok but itís a long long way off how a XC bike like the SB4.5 is going to feel.

  54. #1354
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    Thanks guys, appreciate your feedback. It's true, I do not know what the settings for either the forks or the shock were. It was a pretty rushed setup at the end of the day. I don't even know what the tyre pressures were. Let alone rebound.

    I'm kicking myself really as I should have asked more questions or been more prepared myself.

    It is the first of the nu-skool geo bikes I've tried and perhaps the burliest bike I've ridden bar a car park lap on an SB5.5. Even though there's only 10mm F 16mm R more than the SB4.5

    I guess there are lots of possible contributors as to why I wasn't completely sold on the bike. I'll look to source a more dedicated demo from a local dealer so I can spend a weekend on the bike and ride a couple of familiar trails.

    Although I got the impression from the distributor that if the shop didn't have their own demo bike (which they probably don't) it would be June before a bike from their demo fleet would be released (once their demo tour has finished).

    I'll try and throw a leg over the Evil Offering and Ibis Ripmo to see if there are any comparisons I can make with those before the next SB130 demo.

    In the meantime I'll keep rallying the SB4.5

  55. #1355
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    I'll try and throw a leg over the Evil Offering and Ibis Ripmo to see if there are any comparisons I can make with those before the next SB130 demo.
    I demo'd an SB130 back-to-back with a Ripmo and the SB130 was far "quicker" from a dead stop and while pedaling and that included uphills. I'm not a Yeti fan at all and really REALLY did not want that result as the Ripmo is a good $700 cheaper and pound lighter but it felt like a 29'r whereas the SB130 felt like a fast rolling 27.5'r! To get a quicker reacting bike you'd have to go hardtail or short travel VPP IMHO. Make sure your tires are aired up properly and sag is set correctly for the rear shock. Also I'd look at the new Revel Rascal before the Offering based on what you are saying. I own a Balance and can say, without a question of a doubt, the CBF rear suspension is the real deal and the only thing that comes remotely close is Yeti's SI system. The Delta system on the Evil's would be a distant 4th behind even the standard DW link bikes like the Ripmo from what I've experienced (speaking strictly from a trail performance standard with UPHILL sections; strictly DH with a coil shock is a different story). Please post your findings, I'll be real curious to see what you think.

    Have FUN!

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  56. #1356
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    It is the first of the nu-skool geo bikes I've tried
    That combined with a poor set up could account for a good chunk of what you're experiencing IMO. The slacker HA and longer front-centre do require a change in riding style to get the most out of, and the 130 is a big jump from the 4.5 in those aspects. Maybe with a bit more time and with the suspension and stack height etc dialed in you'll find that "heavy" feeling is thought of as stability and confidence inspiring, and when you're used to the body English to get it to pop your "old-school" bike will have become twitchy and nervous feeling.

  57. #1357
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    So against my better judgement (and past experiences of dealing with Yeti & their distributor) I may have done something a bit silly and picked up an SB130 frame.

    The shop I race for has been doing them for a while in the background & a combination of a 'very' cheap deal & itchy feet having been on and racing a slightly overbuilt Fuel EX 9.9 for about 2.5 years for regional, some national (and even a few EWS) enduros meant making a bit of a snap decision. I prefer the shorter travel for 90% of my riding (although I also have a RAAW Madonna for being really silly on) and the SB130 addresses the minor niggles I had with the Fuel, namely the actual STA - being tall, made the effective STA pretty rubbish at my height. The RAAW really opened my eyes to the steeper STA & the only real downside is the seat sits a bit forward when descending which i'm not as used to. Slightly slacker HT, (Fuel is slacker than Trek advertise) & a little bit more reach.

    Otherwise, it has a lot to live up to, I can genuinely say the '18/19 9.9 EX is the best all round bike i've ridden. Light, fun, fast & really can cover a range of riding. I took it to 3rd in my first race of the year yesterday & it just got on with it, no fuss.

    I'll be putting some weight on with the SB130, as the Fuel frame is very light, but the aim is to (try) and keep it around the 28lb mark, as I want that light, lively feel with a bit of balance towards going faster. Will be planning on removing the travel spacer from the shock to increase the rear travel on it & reduce the 'reverse mullet' a bit

  58. #1358
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    Anyone tried. 35mm and 40mm stem and noticed any differences on the sb130?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  59. #1359
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Anyone tried. 35mm and 40mm stem and noticed any differences on the sb130?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Im using the Industry 9 32mm stem. Love it, shortened reach a bit(I'm short for a Medium) but still climbs great.
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0
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  60. #1360
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    I'm a little bit disappointed and underwhelmed with the SB130 demo I've just had if I'm honest.

    I wanted a bike to replace my 4.5 with and on paper this ticked a lot of the boxes that I felt were the 4.5 shortcomings. Extra travel, burlier bike, etc. whilst still benefitting from the Yeti/SI attributes.

    As reference my '16 4.5 is the stock x01 version running what was the '16 5.5 wheel set (350s/XM481).

    I travelled to an unfamiliar riding location yesterday to demo a large SB130 in X01 guise. A quick sag setup on the forks (non really on the DPX2 although air pressures were adjusted) and I was off on a 10km demo circuit at a trail centre with plenty of fireroad climbing / traversing and a mixture of red and black descents.

    The bike felt shorter than what I was expecting. All this talk of longer reach is offset by the steeper seat angle. It also felt a little low on the front end. The feel of the front end felt different and I wasn't particularly overly-confident with the front end. Although it didn't really misbehave.

    I also felt the bike was sluggish. It didn't surge. Granted, with the extra weight I didn't expect it to climb like the 4.5 but it didn't feel particular quick on the flat. Or for that matter on the descents. The 4.5 accelerates yet I didn't get this sensation with the SB130.

    Although it didn't 'feel' heavy I felt it rode 'heavy'. It was difficult to pick the front wheel up. Difficult to 'pop' the bike. Even hopping the bike.

    I could go on but basically I was expecting a burlier 4.5 and didn't get that. It was something else. Something I wasn't necessarily convinced by for parting money for. Even though I've amassed parts to self build the X01 Race version.

    There could be lots of factors to this. Riding unfamiliar trails. The stock M1700 wheel set and grabby XT brakes. Not getting the suspension dialled better. Just having a bad riding day.

    Generally when demo'ing bikes previously you get the bike for the weekend and ride on familiar trails to give you a great comparison. I was sold after the 4.5 demo and it had the xc tune shock and duff rear brake with minimal shock setup in the shop.

    So, did I just have a bad demo experience (it was the last demo slot of the day)? Do I need more time on the bike with more focus on setup? Did anybody else have an uncertain demo experience? The SB130 just didn't seem to reflect the bike reviews and user feedback I'd read and what I was expecting.

    And with that in mind I couldn't see what advantages this bike gave me over my 4.5.
    Coming off the same bike I had the exact same experience. These newer longer wheelbase bikes with shorter offset forks just feel different and it takes a few ride to get used to. That being said the 130 felt better the harder I pushed it.
    Last edited by wrinklefree; 2 Weeks Ago at 02:15 PM.

  61. #1361
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    Sb100 is a closer replacment to sb45 than the sb130. Sb130 replaces closer to sb55.

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  62. #1362
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklefree View Post
    Coming off the same bike I had the exact same experience. These newer longer wheelbase bikes which shorter offset forks just feel different and it takes a few ride to get used to. That being said the 130 felt better the harder I pushed it.
    Cheers wrinklefree, thats good to know. Thanks. I was hoping that someone at least had a similar experience and more specifically experienced the change from an SB4.5 to an SB130.

    I was left completely baffled as to what wasn't quite right.

    I'm still waiting to hear on when I can secure a longer weekend demo.

  63. #1363
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    Finished building mine up tonight. I can say to be fair the quality of the frames has improved since the last Yeti I had. I hope that translates to long term durability. I weighed the frame bare & it was a good 1.5lb more than my Fuel EX 9.9, like for like. It put my build as is, pretty much bang on 29lbs, which makes sense, as my Fuel was 27.5lbs.

    The internal routing guides are great, if a little annoying if you run the front brake on the right, it means a less clean setup on the front.

    Couple of extra bits to lighten it up, I have a Lev Ci 175mm to go on and a set of 30mm XMC1200's (the only carbon wheels i will run as they arnt horribly stiff). That should see me at 28lbs. Cant really save any more weight from there.

    Might swap the Grip2 damper I have on my other bike for the Fit4 damper on this one, as I prefer the black fork on this bike, but not sure yet, and will play with the shock as I have a new style 210x55 CCDB IL Air which I tend to prefer the damping style of over Fox shocks, but we will see.

    Looking forward to getting out on it this weekend.


  64. #1364
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Just an update to my SB130 so far after 3 1/2 months of ownership and 500 miles of riding on it.
    Initially I ran the DPX2 stock with 255psi and had quite a few bottom outs although the shock felt great in all other aspects and was very supportive. Then I added a .60 light blue spacer which improved the bottom outs and I was able to reduce PSI to 250 but on a whim I changed recently to the .86 dark blue volume spacer and finally the shock is perfect for my liking and has outstanding ramp up and a lively feel running 245 psi for my 31% sag I've settled on.

    My down tube protector is still looking fine and I've yet to want to change to the new revised DT piece and I have very little dirt or grit built up.

    Love the bike so much and I can safely say it gets better each and every ride as I've put all my miles on it in Sedona, ST. George, Hurricane, Vegas, Moab, Fruita and Grand Junction trails riding pretty Gnarly and technical trails both up and down.
    5 months, ~450 miles and like you loving it more and more each day... A couple more notes from my side...

    After playing with a Shockwiz a few weeks and experimenting a bit, I've made a few adjustments to my setup. Never thought a light guy like me (160lbs) would add more spacers!

    Fork: added third spacer, dropped pressure to 54 psi
    Rear Shock: added gray (0.4) spacer, dropped pressure to 175 psi

    I would not have guessed it would work well, but it does. Great small bump compliance, overall feel, and bottomless!

    One surprise: I've already stretched my chain well beyond service limit (GX chain on X01 Race build) Such low mileage, this was surprising. Switching to X01 chain to see if it lasts longer, did anyone wear out their (GX or other) chains this fast?

    Having a water bottle cage on the frame is money! So great to ride without a pack on those shorter rides!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    The bike felt shorter than what I was expecting. All this talk of longer reach is offset by the steeper seat angle. It also felt a little low on the front end. The feel of the front end felt different and I wasn't particularly overly-confident with the front end. Although it didn't really misbehave.
    I know many have already commented, but a couple more thoughts:
    - On the seat tube angle offsetting the reach, the geo by design gets you in better position for sitting/climbing (more forward, and therefore more cramped feeling cockpit) but does not impact things when you are maneuvering/descending (in which case I'd think you've have your seat slammed). Said differently, once the seat is slammed, reach, stack, and stem/bar setup are what count.
    - What is comfortable from a reach perspective is definitely a preference thing. And as people have mentioned, the longer WB coupled with short CS means you need to be more forward if you want to weight the front end aggressively during cornering.
    - Frame sizing can be an important factor. Many here have gone up in size because they felt cramped with factory recommendation. Try one size up and see if that helps; many have reported success with this strategy.
    - Could the low feeling of the front end could be addressed with a couple of stem spacers and bar rise? Was your demo bike fully slammed to the frame vs. something different on your current bike?

    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    Although it didn't 'feel' heavy I felt it rode 'heavy'. It was difficult to pick the front wheel up. Difficult to 'pop' the bike. Even hopping the bike.
    My guess is this could also be fit related (as you mentioned before, low feeling front end). Could also be a result of the bike's reach just being a lot longer than you are used to.

    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Anyone tried. 35mm and 40mm stem and noticed any differences on the sb130?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    I swapped to a 35mm stem and the SQLab 30X 16 deg. backsweep bar. Very happy with the move. Aside from ergonomic benefits, this places my grips adjacent to the center of rotation of the bars. IMO a great improvement in steering responsiveness/neutrality. Got the motivation to try after talking to Lee McCormack of Lee Likes Bikes fame. His ideas on bike fit are really solid!

  65. #1365
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    nice graffiti, er i mean bike
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  66. #1366
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    natural habitat

    I just had a first ride on the 130 over the weekend and was stoked overall.

    I'm riding a medium at 5'10/33 inseam. fit is great with renthal 40mm stem. This frame is fast climbing and fast descending. the chassis feels pretty efficient instead of 'Plush'. Imo the ride feels light, a little bit wandery on climbs with the 36 @ 160mm, wandery meaning you have to correct the steering a little bit on technical ascents.

    Suspension setup left a little to be desired and I think this is user error. Feels like the ride is a little stiff coming off a 150mm 29er Rallon. At 165lbs I believe there was 160lbs in stock rear dhx. I just saw someone is running 175psi w a volume spacer and a 160lb rider weight.

    the fox 36 was around 55 psi with a volume spacer. hoping for some setup advice. I do have the lufkappe i could install soon, going to 150mm wouldnt be a problem.
    Ideally the chassis would feel a little softer while maintaining the snappy feel it has. am i asking for too much? : )

    one shot so far
    Cheers!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-trails-yeti-camp.jpg  

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  67. #1367
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Iím on 5.5 but will get my SB130 tomorrow... yeahhh!!!

    Like you I like the bike to be efficient but still the suspension has to do itís job. I always found the Yetis to be too nervous from the back (itís just personal preference) ... but once you fit an X2 or even a CCDB Coil IL on it, that feeling is gone and you still keep the playfulness without some kind of harshness ... my best description would be ďtoo nervousĒ I donít know if it makes sense

    I applied that to my SB6 and SB5.5 and I could not be happier.

    As for the fork. I had my 36 RC2 custom tuned + a Luftkape.

    Settings: 65 PSI, HSC full open, LSC full open, 3 tokens.

    and when it was way better than the original one it was still lacking some pop to pull the bike here and there on the trail (you donít realize how much you need it when you donít have it).

    Long story short, Iíve been doing some testing for a few weeks now and I think I finally have a better result than with my 36.

    I bought a second hand (but brand new) Yari RC (cheap). The Lyric and Yari share the same chassis, so why pay more when you are going to replace everything inside .... except the Dual Flow rebound instead of the Rapid Recovery ... but the NovyParts owner told me they work better anyway ... more oil flow apparently ... heís tuning suspensions for Cecile Ravanel amongst other pros on the EWS and DH WC so I tend to believe him

    I replaced the Motion Control damper with a custom tuned Novypart SPLUG.
    Installed a push ACS3 kit (blue spring) to replace the air spring. And Now weíre talking ... it ticks all the boxes.

    Good everywhere (during all 3 phases of travel) crazy grip ... but very curiously .... really really poppy ... and that is something I was not expecting ...

    Thatís just my experience ... but if it helps you achieve what you looking for, it was worth sharing

    As soon as I receive the SB130 Iíll apply exactly the same treatment (except with a shorter offset for the fork and I might play with the 150/160mm) and itíll be a smooth ride from there!

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_0976.jpg

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_0977.jpg

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_0978.jpg

  68. #1368
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    I know many have already commented, but a couple more thoughts:
    - On the seat tube angle offsetting the reach, the geo by design gets you in better position for sitting/climbing (more forward, and therefore more cramped feeling cockpit) but does not impact things when you are maneuvering/descending (in which case I'd think you've have your seat slammed). Said differently, once the seat is slammed, reach, stack, and stem/bar setup are what count.
    - What is comfortable from a reach perspective is definitely a preference thing. And as people have mentioned, the longer WB coupled with short CS means you need to be more forward if you want to weight the front end aggressively during cornering.
    - Frame sizing can be an important factor. Many here have gone up in size because they felt cramped with factory recommendation. Try one size up and see if that helps; many have reported success with this strategy.
    - Could the low feeling of the front end could be addressed with a couple of stem spacers and bar rise? Was your demo bike fully slammed to the frame vs. something different on your current bike?


    My guess is this could also be fit related (as you mentioned before, low feeling front end). Could also be a result of the bike's reach just being a lot longer than you are used to.
    Cheers shinjohn, at 183cm, from a Yeti sizing perspective I'm always a large. From ASR5C to SB4.5 to SB130. I'd definitely be swamped by an XL.

    I didn't necessarily feel cramped but I think the steeper STA and riding position puts you more upright and perched rather perhaps slightly more relaxed and 'in'. With that in mind I can't imagine there's much difference between the 4.5 and 130 in cockpit, reach and feel.

    I 'think' the demo bike was running a single stem spacer, were as my 4.5 is running two. Again balancing the cockpit 'feel' between the bikes can be easily addressed with spacers, stem length (although I wouldn't want to go over 50mm like my current bike) and handlebar rise.

    On reflection, the demo wasn't 'bad' but the bike just didn't scream 'buy me now'. The feel of the bike is certainly different to what I was expecting and perhaps the rushed nature of the setup and limited time on the bike contributed to this.

    The bike certainly felt composed on the rocky and rooty descent that was part of the demo loop. It was certainly a lot quieter than the SB4.5.

    I think I just need more time with the bike to confirm whether it'll be the SB4.5 successor. To get things dialled in better and ride familiar trails for a true comparison.

  69. #1369
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    I managed to sneak out on mine at lunch for an hour of power. I'm fortunate enough to work 5 minutes away from the venue I actually raced my first 2019 regional enduro at this weekend just gone.

    I raced my last bike, so this was very much a shakedown test, gave it a few beans to see how it felt & reacted in certain situations.

    The extra length means loading the front up a bit more in loose, flat corners or it wants to wash out, i'm used to this feeling on my bigger bike bit it nearly caught me out a couple of times today. No surprises there, most, if not all reviews have said when pushing on you need to be a bit more aggressive over the front to get it to bite in.

    Out of the saddle hard pedals between corners - it's better than the Fuel here, which I expected as the SI Link is good when hammering.

    Climbing - felt pretty good, I am noticing the seat angle for sure, it's introducing pressure on my previously busted wrist, so will need to adapt a bit for that. probably climbs as well as my old Fuel (which is a good thing).

    Rear end. Will need to have a play a bit with settings, a couple of the stages have some reasonable sized gaps/stepdowns which I hit. Looking at the O-Ring I was all in on the travel, but no nasty bottom out which was good. It seems to hold & carry its speed well though, which is a good sign & rougher stuff seems more settled than my last bike. Will have a play with spacers & settings though to see if any further improvements can be made.

    Interestingly Strava tells me i'm not faster, but then i'm comparing times to race stages, but I am literally a handful of seconds out on the important bits. Whilst I wasn't cruising, I didn't feel like I pushed 'that' hard - i'm going to disappear out of the office tomorrow afternoon early & hit up the whole loop & see how it feels with a few hard efforts in the stages & see how the times stack up. I feel like it might be the faster bike, which on it's second ride would be surprising.

    Lastly, i'm a fan of a quiet bike & this is silent. yes it's a new frame with a lot of nearly new parts, but even so. All round thumbs up to start with

  70. #1370
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    Is there anything I can do settings-wise to minimize front tire wash out? I demoed back in the winter when the trails were in perfect condition but now that its dried out I'm losing the front end on non-berm corners at speed. Conditions are hard pack with loose gravel on top, certainly sketch but I never had a single washout in 4 years on my YT Tues. I'm thinking that bike probably hid a lot of bad technique, which I'm working hard to correct, but hoping I can tweak something to make the process easier.

    Bike is basically a large XO build with 800mm 7 back 5 up handlebars instead of the stock 780/9/5 but I can't imagine that matters much. Same tires as stock running 25/27 PSI per the Yeti site.

    Thanks!

  71. #1371
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    Is there anything I can do settings-wise to minimize front tire wash out? I demoed back in the winter when the trails were in perfect condition but now that its dried out I'm losing the front end on non-berm corners at speed. Conditions are hard pack with loose gravel on top, certainly sketch but I never had a single washout in 4 years on my YT Tues. I'm thinking that bike probably hid a lot of bad technique, which I'm working hard to correct, but hoping I can tweak something to make the process easier.

    Bike is basically a large XO build with 800mm 7 back 5 up handlebars instead of the stock 780/9/5 but I can't imagine that matters much. Same tires as stock running 25/27 PSI per the Yeti site.

    Thanks!
    For me there was an adjustment period where I had to learn to trust the bike more, keep my weight more centered than I was used to. Maybe try that and see if you were washing out because there was not enough weight on the front tire?
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  72. #1372
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    Is there anything I can do settings-wise to minimize front tire wash out? I demoed back in the winter when the trails were in perfect condition but now that its dried out I'm losing the front end on non-berm corners at speed. Conditions are hard pack with loose gravel on top, certainly sketch but I never had a single washout in 4 years on my YT Tues. I'm thinking that bike probably hid a lot of bad technique, which I'm working hard to correct, but hoping I can tweak something to make the process easier.

    Bike is basically a large XO build with 800mm 7 back 5 up handlebars instead of the stock 780/9/5 but I can't imagine that matters much. Same tires as stock running 25/27 PSI per the Yeti site.

    Thanks!
    lower your stack height....slam the stem on the headset assuming it doesn't negatively effect your ride position when seated and give you pain. This will allow more rider weight on the front tire and help keep traction through the turns. It'll also help on climbs. Also get used to having your torso hinged with more weight over the front center of the bike as it rewards this forward riding position greatly as this will help along with obviously only feathering the brakes pre turn in.
    Yeti SB150
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  73. #1373
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    This may be a little extreme since he's a pro rider but this ride position will benefit way more speed and traction through turns and when your more often than not riding in this position when attacking the bike will be amazing.
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-p5pb12469135.jpgName:  th.jpg
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  74. #1374
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    Is there anything I can do settings-wise to minimize front tire wash out? I demoed back in the winter when the trails were in perfect condition but now that its dried out I'm losing the front end on non-berm corners at speed. Conditions are hard pack with loose gravel on top, certainly sketch but I never had a single washout in 4 years on my YT Tues. I'm thinking that bike probably hid a lot of bad technique, which I'm working hard to correct, but hoping I can tweak something to make the process easier.

    Bike is basically a large XO build with 800mm 7 back 5 up handlebars instead of the stock 780/9/5 but I can't imagine that matters much. Same tires as stock running 25/27 PSI per the Yeti site.

    Thanks!
    The ďcenterĒ of the bike is further forward than youíre used to. Get a tiny bit more forward and youíll feel the front grab better. I feel the same thing when I start chickening out and slide back on the saddle.

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    Thanks a ton for the help guys. I'm def trying to get further forward and will keep at it. Related question - is there a definitive guide to downhill technique out there, either in book or video form? Ironically I didn't need it when I was chillin on my DH bike lol.

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    FYI for people that want to convert to LR suspension. Chatted with fox CS and the 210x52.5 DPX2 can be converted to 210x55 by removing the 2.5 mm travel spacer. Said def do not try to DIY - ship to Fox and they'll take care of it as part of a full shock rebuild for $145 including return shipping. (he also said just buy an X2 instead )

  77. #1377
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    Thanks a ton for the help guys. I'm def trying to get further forward and will keep at it. Related question - is there a definitive guide to downhill technique out there, either in book or video form? Ironically I didn't need it when I was chillin on my DH bike lol.
    http://betterride.net/blog/2015/corn...w-not-forward/

    https://www.redbull.com/int-en/5-top...ring-technique

    But Iíd say itís a mix of both

    Low AND forward/centered ... but more importantly (at least thatís what works for me) Lean the bike, not the body!

    http://www.dirtsmartmtb.com/uncatego...mountain-bike/

  78. #1378
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    FYI for people that want to convert to LR suspension. Chatted with fox CS and the 210x52.5 DPX2 can be converted to 210x55 by removing the 2.5 mm travel spacer. Said def do not try to DIY - ship to Fox and they'll take care of it as part of a full shock rebuild for $145 including return shipping. (he also said just buy an X2 instead )
    This is clutch, cause I already have frame and shock sitting at shop waiting for GRIP2 and Hydras to be laced up. From the get-go, I was wishing this bike was 140mm, so I'll take 136mm and call it good! Or maybe I see if shop can do an exchange with Yeti...either way, simple enough. Cheers!

  79. #1379
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    FYI for people that want to convert to LR suspension. Chatted with fox CS and the 210x52.5 DPX2 can be converted to 210x55 by removing the 2.5 mm travel spacer. Said def do not try to DIY - ship to Fox and they'll take care of it as part of a full shock rebuild for $145 including return shipping. (he also said just buy an X2 instead )
    Good info. I went looking through the parts diagram for this 2.5mm spacer hoping it was an easy grab, but I couldnít find it anywhere so I figured it was best left to the professionals. Haha.

  80. #1380
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    Hey guys,

    I'm currently testing out if I want to ride Air or Coil on this bike. The DPX2 works rather well for me, but I'd still like to try my CaneCreek DBInline Coil. The problem is, I can't find the necessary mounting hardware specifications.

    According to the owner's manual, I'll need 2x 8x36mm spacers for the front - as far as I know, this one doens't have to be from Fox but could also be a Rockshox part. But for the back it only says "Shock Eyelet Spacer" (part number 300030300) - is this a Yeti propietary part? If so, can it be switched from shock to shock?

    Side-question: Do you guys know if the Muc-Off Grease+Greasegun also works for Switch Infinity or should I switch to the Yeti-branded one?

    Thanks in advance!

  81. #1381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zisea View Post
    Hey guys,

    I'm currently testing out if I want to ride Air or Coil on this bike. The DPX2 works rather well for me, but I'd still like to try my CaneCreek DBInline Coil. The problem is, I can't find the necessary mounting hardware specifications.

    According to the owner's manual, I'll need 2x 8x36mm spacers for the front - as far as I know, this one doens't have to be from Fox but could also be a Rockshox part. But for the back it only says "Shock Eyelet Spacer" (part number 300030300) - is this a Yeti propietary part? If so, can it be switched from shock to shock?

    Side-question: Do you guys know if the Muc-Off Grease+Greasegun also works for Switch Infinity or should I switch to the Yeti-branded one?

    Thanks in advance!
    Any brand grease gun will work as long as it has a needle style tip but be sure to use the lube Yeti suggests as long as itís the same compound.

    Send a PM to the member Rondre as he has the CC DB in-line mounted on his SB130 and he can tell you what bushings he used to mount his Coil.

  82. #1382
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    Any NLGI grade Moly grease will work fine if you donít wanna order the Yeti branded switch infinity lube which is likely the same thing.

  83. #1383
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Could not find the grease and gun at a reasonable price so I bought the following grease and gun ... they work great!

    This grease is the same as the Yeti one

    Mobilgrease XHP 222 is an extra high performance lithium complex grease

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VGEEM4

    Astro 101 Mini Grease Gun with Needle Nozzle

    https://www.amazon.com/Astro-101-Gre...dp/B000FMK7FG/

    $20 for both and they do the job !! AND you have about 4 times more grease for that price

  84. #1384
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    My bad, you need the ę*special*Ľ version! The one with ę*molybdenum*Ľ inside! Iíve had it for years so I forgot that

    Mobilgrease XHP 222 Special is an extreme pressure grease fortified with 0.75% molybdenum disulfide that provides protection from wear under conditions pivoting and other conditions that lead to loss of oil

  85. #1385
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    Awesome to see the LR released at sea otter. Send to Push or Fox? for the proper valving and spacer change?

    going to go with 160 / 136mm
    Jesus Saves

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  86. #1386
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post
    Awesome to see the LR released at sea otter. Send to Push or Fox? for the proper valving and spacer change?

    going to go with 160 / 136mm
    I think it's great but also a kick in the pants if you just got a 130. Seems the staff know whats best and I see no reason to not go with this setup over the stock 130. The fork size didn't allow the latest and greatest and that should be there on a bike worth so much. 30T ring, cheap change and I personally went with a 28T because I never use the high gears when riding my Ripmo so why not. The rear shock change is interesting that it can handle a different length that original design and say it works fine and is better. Brakes, well we all know about brakes and just get the best as it is a safety item and a no brainer.POWER...

    If you have a 130 already and love to tinker, you just got your new blueprint for spending your money. If you waited for things to settler before buying, you just lucked out as that thing looks perfect besides those 1700 wheels that I would also upgrade.

  87. #1387
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    Agreed (on Lunch Ride version). I now feel "obligated" to modify my shock on a bike I havent even ridden yet. Small difference I know, but our local Fox suspension expert will take care of it for $75 he said, so that's nothing.

    Also, it's not taking a longer shock per se, just removing the spacer for longer stroke, but glad to know tire won't hit/rub.
    Last edited by RAG2; 1 Week Ago at 05:44 PM.

  88. #1388
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    Is there anything I can do settings-wise to minimize front tire wash out? I demoed back in the winter when the trails were in perfect condition but now that its dried out I'm losing the front end on non-berm corners at speed. Conditions are hard pack with loose gravel on top, certainly sketch but I never had a single washout in 4 years on my YT Tues. I'm thinking that bike probably hid a lot of bad technique, which I'm working hard to correct, but hoping I can tweak something to make the process easier.

    Bike is basically a large XO build with 800mm 7 back 5 up handlebars instead of the stock 780/9/5 but I can't imagine that matters much. Same tires as stock running 25/27 PSI per the Yeti site.

    Thanks!
    Sounds like a fork rebound issue to me. What is your weight; what fork and settings are you running?

    All this talk of needing to change body position and ride the front is a bit misleading. Good body position on any bike is going to be with weight centered through the BB. Old geo or new - doesnít matter.
    Last edited by expatrider; 1 Week Ago at 08:03 PM.

  89. #1389
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    seems like a little early for anyone to have this info but anyone aware if the dpx2 tune is the same for the 130 vs 136 travel, is the LR shock really only a longer stroke or is there any tune difference from fox?

  90. #1390
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    LR shock tune
    I spoke with a very knowledgeable person who said you need to change the spacer, and the valving needs to be changed to maintain the correct 'tune code it came with from Fox'. new stickers wont help much : )

    Also read somewhere Fox can do it for $145 with shipping. I'm checking w Pu$h right now on cost if anyone is interested...
    Jesus Saves

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  91. #1391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dale-Calgary View Post
    I think it's great but also a kick in the pants if you just got a 130. Seems the staff know whats best and I see no reason to not go with this setup over the stock 130. The fork size didn't allow the latest and greatest and that should be there on a bike worth so much. 30T ring, cheap change and I personally went with a 28T because I never use the high gears when riding my Ripmo so why not. The rear shock change is interesting that it can handle a different length that original design and say it works fine and is better. Brakes, well we all know about brakes and just get the best as it is a safety item and a no brainer.POWER...

    If you have a 130 already and love to tinker, you just got your new blueprint for spending your money. If you waited for things to settler before buying, you just lucked out as that thing looks perfect besides those 1700 wheels that I would also upgrade.
    Like everything in life, 'it depends'. I don't need an extra 10mm on my fork travel, the extra rear travel - it's a static change, so you can run a standard 210x55 shock & it won't make any other difference to the bike, doubt it will change the way it rides, just give a bit more for the rear travel. I did exactly the same for my Fuel, i'll probably do the same for this when it needs a service.

    Other changes for me arn't needed, I run a 32 or 34T front ring & I don't need Codes on a trail bike I race regional enduro's on. Hell, I don't even run Codes on my 170mm 29er.

    The shock change I can get into, as it's something for nothing, the rest i'm more than happy with

  92. #1392
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post
    I spoke with a very knowledgeable person who said you need to change the spacer, and the valving needs to be changed to maintain the correct 'tune code it came with from Fox'. new stickers wont help much : )

    Also read somewhere Fox can do it for $145 with shipping. I'm checking w Pu$h right now on cost if anyone is interested...
    Good luck with that... PUSH is no longer working on shocks other than the 11-6.

  93. #1393
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    Quote Originally Posted by expatrider View Post
    Sounds like a fork rebound issue to me. What is your weight; what fork and settings are you running?

    All this talk of needing to change body position and ride the front is a bit misleading. Good body position on any bike is going to be with weight centered through the BB. Old geo or new - doesnít matter.
    160lbs
    75 PSI

    The fork settings were Yeti recommended and LBS changed to:
    HSC 16 (from closed)
    LSC 10 (from closed)
    HSR 0 (from closed/slowest)
    LSR 11 (from closed/slowest)

  94. #1394
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post
    I spoke with a very knowledgeable person who said you need to change the spacer, and the valving needs to be changed to maintain the correct 'tune code it came with from Fox'. new stickers wont help much : )

    Also read somewhere Fox can do it for $145 with shipping. I'm checking w Pu$h right now on cost if anyone is interested...
    I talked to fox suspension tech who said you do not need to re-valve for such a small change. Which is what my gut told me. That's not to say that somebody at the extreme end of the weight spectrum wouldn't benefit from some revolving or something like that... But now we're talking about something altogether different.

  95. #1395
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    seems like a little early for anyone to have this info but anyone aware if the dpx2 tune is the same for the 130 vs 136 travel, is the LR shock really only a longer stroke or is there any tune difference from fox?
    The tune should be identical as it it based on leverage ratio and that does not change when you long shock the bike. If you wanted a different tune because you are very light or very heavy, then that is a different story. Pulling out the bottom out spacer to get the extra travel is pretty simple.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  96. #1396
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    Is there anything I can do settings-wise to minimize front tire wash out? I demoed back in the winter when the trails were in perfect condition but now that its dried out I'm losing the front end on non-berm corners at speed. Conditions are hard pack with loose gravel on top, certainly sketch but I never had a single washout in 4 years on my YT Tues. I'm thinking that bike probably hid a lot of bad technique, which I'm working hard to correct, but hoping I can tweak something to make the process easier.

    Bike is basically a large XO build with 800mm 7 back 5 up handlebars instead of the stock 780/9/5 but I can't imagine that matters much. Same tires as stock running 25/27 PSI per the Yeti site.

    Thanks!
    Welcome to long front center bikes. You need more weight on the front end. You can do this with a longer stem, narrower bars, less offset on the fork, lower handlebar height. Basically you need to be further forward by changing the bike or how you ride it.

    I would also suggest faster HSR. Full closed won't let the fork recover fast enough.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  97. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    160lbs
    75 PSI

    The fork settings were Yeti recommended and LBS changed to:
    HSC 16 (from closed)
    LSC 10 (from closed)
    HSR 0 (from closed/slowest)
    LSR 11 (from closed/slowest)
    OK, so I take it because you have the HS settings, you on the 160 GRIP2?

    There are 2 possible causes, both on the rebound side, and both of which may be contributing. First, having zero clicks of HSR is going to contribute to problems with cornering, in that the fork cannot react quick enough to high speed inputs like you get with fast cornering. At your weight, I would try 4 clicks and go from there; you can probably run it a bit quicker than that depending on terrain. I'm heavier than you and run 4, 5, or 6 depending on terrain, and in theory you should need less damping than me as you're lighter so somewhere around 5-6 clicks might work well for you. Regardless of whether this helps in the corners you mention, you need to open up the HSR anyway as unless you do, the fork is going to feel like crap on anything rocky/rough DH.

    The other likely culprit is that your LSR is too fast, which will result in the tire losing contact with the ground and will definitely cause washout in a corner. At your weight, I would start out by trying 6 or 7 clicks and open it up from there.

    Just remember to only make one adjustment at a time, i.e., adjust HSR only and see how it feels, don't adjust both HSR and LSR at the same time as it makes it harder to isolate which one made things better or worse.

    You might also try a couple less psi unless you're already using full travel. Other settings look OK though. Let us know if this helps!

  98. #1398
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    Awesome! Thanks a ton I'll try that out today.

  99. #1399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dale-Calgary View Post
    I think it's great but also a kick in the pants if you just got a 130. Seems the staff know whats best and I see no reason to not go with this setup over the stock 130. The fork size didn't allow the latest and greatest and that should be there on a bike worth so much. 30T ring, cheap change and I personally went with a 28T because I never use the high gears when riding my Ripmo so why not. The rear shock change is interesting that it can handle a different length that original design and say it works fine and is better. Brakes, well we all know about brakes and just get the best as it is a safety item and a no brainer.POWER...

    If you have a 130 already and love to tinker, you just got your new blueprint for spending your money. If you waited for things to settler before buying, you just lucked out as that thing looks perfect besides those 1700 wheels that I would also upgrade.
    Make no mistake that it's another way to sell more bikes. Just like the auto industry has different builds for the same model
    Thus giving the consumer choices, based on their needs.

    End goal is diversify the line up at minimal cost but increase feature and benefits and increase sales....




    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

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    No difference in business approach from say FMCG such as toothpaste and shampoo. Slight variations every now and then, keep tweaking the formulation be it visual, taste, smell etc.

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