Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build - Page 13- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1201
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    Probably something like I just did...210x55 shock. Stock is a 52.5mm stroke.

    I can confirm there is plenty of room at full compression with an 2.3 Aggressor. Sorry, no ride report yet because I just put it on 20min ago. Should get at least a short stint on it this weekend.

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  2. #1202
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    Cool. I think he did have a cane creek.

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  3. #1203
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Was talking to some guy at Sedona and he said he was able to increase his rear travel like 5mm more. I didnt get the details. Was wondering if anyone knows.

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    Just so you know I have some inside info that a LR type version of the SB130 will be available at some point this year.....It'll have 137mm rear Travel and a Grip2 160mm fork and burlier wheels. No idea on release date and for all I know that could be in early September but it sounds like anyone can already increase the rear travel if they desired without any negative changes like Rondre just did.
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  4. #1204
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmarsh View Post
    Heres my new beauty

    SB130 Turq Medium
    Fox Grip 2 160mm
    Nox Farlow hoops w/ Chris KIng hubs
    Race face bars SixC
    Race Face Next SL G4 cranks
    Wolf tooth chain ring 30t
    E-thirteen 9-44 cassette
    Magura MT7 brakes 203 front 180 rear
    One up dropper 150mm
    crank bros enduro pedals
    XTR shifter
    XT derailluer
    Mynesweeper tire inserts
    How was Sedonna bro?
    Mjw great info...

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  5. #1205
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Just so you know I have some inside info that a LR type version of the SB130 will be available at some point this year.....It'll have 137mm rear Travel and a Grip2 160mm fork and burlier wheels. No idea on release date and for all I know that could be in early September but it sounds like anyone can already increase the rear travel if they desired without any negative changes like Rondre just did.
    That makes the 1 bike quiver even more of a 1 bike quiver especially for Nor Cal...

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  6. #1206
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    7mm increase would be nice. Is it the same frame and just a linkage change? I hope i can just send my new 11-6 back to Push to get a new shaft installed. I guess I'll have to patiently.

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  7. #1207
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    7mm increase would be nice. Is it the same frame and just a linkage change? I hope i can just send my new 11-6 back to Push to get a new shaft installed. I guess I'll have to patiently.

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    It might be a differnt linkage but I bet its just a longer stroke shock - like how YT offer 2 travel verions on their bikes - same eye to eye, different stroke - no linkage change.

    210 - 52.5mm as it is now = 130
    210 - 55 = 136.19

    There are few people out there running 210 - 55 x2s right now too.

  8. #1208
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    Here's mine. Can't wait to get some more time on it! Adding a 210x55 shock with Fox installed SB130 specific tune to get it to 136. Should be perfect for my local stuff
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2947.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2948.jpg  


  9. #1209
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    Quote Originally Posted by SX450 View Post
    Here's mine. Can't wait to get some more time on it! Adding a 210x55 shock with Fox installed SB130 specific tune to get it to 136. Should be perfect for my local stuff
    Looks great! I especially like how you blacked out the lime-yellow bands.


    -Ron

  10. #1210
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    BTW - for those interested in going the Cane Creek DB Inline Coil route, it adds roughly half a pound.


    -Ron.

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    Thanks, Ya the lime wasn't working for me. I have some new fork decals coming, so hopefully I can tie the fork in better as well.

  12. #1212
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    Very short shakedown run this morning 6+ miles but 1200'+ of climbing. Rode at Ted Williams for those in SoCal that know it. TT, Minion and Otter were the trail names I remember. My first time there.

    I was VERY impressed with the CC IL coil shock. Took the edge off square edge hits while still maintaining some pop. Bike is still very playful. Climb switch works as advertised and I sure made use of it this morning. Now if this thing lasts a full season I will really be impressed.

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  13. #1213
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Very short shakedown run this morning 6+ miles but 1200'+ of climbing. Rode at Ted Williams for those in SoCal that know it. TT, Minion and Otter were the trail names I remember. My first time there.

    I was VERY impressed with the CC IL coil shock. Took the edge off square edge hits while still maintaining some pop. Bike is still very playful. Climb switch works as advertised and I sure made use of it this morning. Now if this thing lasts a full season I will really be impressed.

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    Huh thought I posted this already but maybe I hit preview instead of post.

    The guys from Poway Bike shop have a Thurs evening ride at ted's every week if you're looking for a group ride. Awesome bunch of guys, that's where I got my 130.

  14. #1214
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    Thanks for the heads-up! With Daylight Savings happening this weekend we'll start having more hours of daylight for post work rides!

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  15. #1215
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Just so you know I have some inside info that a LR type version of the SB130 will be available at some point this year.....It'll have 137mm rear Travel and a Grip2 160mm fork and burlier wheels. No idea on release date and for all I know that could be in early September but it sounds like anyone can already increase the rear travel if they desired without any negative changes like Rondre just did.
    I can confirm this. Chatting with the Yeti demo crew at Sedona MTB Festival. Asked about what creations they are running for the Lunch Ride - increasing the stroke to 138 on DPX2 with 160 grip up front, as skinnybex noted. Benefits of a Metric shock.

  16. #1216
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    Rondre, you gotta let us know how this works out after some more rides. Sounds really good from your first ride report.

    Werenít you on a 5.5? This hot rodded 130 sounds like a modernized version of the 5.5 with 160/137 travel and longer and slacker. HTA is probably a bit less than the stock 65.5 also with the extra 10mm up front.

  17. #1217
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    You got it speeder, but I won't be running this bike w/ a 160 fork. I originally wanted something that rode between my old 5.5 and a 4.5 and I think I've achieved it with this sb130 build.

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  18. #1218
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    You got it speeder, but I won't be running this bike w/ a 160 fork. I originally wanted something that rode between my old 5.5 and a 4.5 and I think I've achieved it with this sb130 build.

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    I feel the same way now that I have my SB150. Iíll be lowering the travel on my SB130 from 160mm to 150mm to keep the bike more agile and not so slacked out.
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  19. #1219
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    Quote Originally Posted by SX450 View Post
    Here's mine. Can't wait to get some more time on it! Adding a 210x55 shock with Fox installed SB130 specific tune to get it to 136. Should be perfect for my local stuff
    How/Where did you get this "specific tune" 210x55 DPX2 for your SB130 ?

  20. #1220
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yok View Post
    How/Where did you get this "specific tune" 210x55 DPX2 for your SB130 ?
    I talked to Fox and they said no problem for the tune. The shock is already there, just waiting for it's return... I have a little time in on this bike now and it's everything I was hoping it would be. Longer lower slacker (lol) than my old fav the SB5.5. I would've moved up to an XL SB5.5 prior, but the seat tube was just too long for a 170 dropper. On my old 5.5 I added a -1 degree headset and that was the ticket for me other than wanting a little more reach. This bike is just perfect now and adding a few more mils of travel can't hurt. Comparing this to my Sentinel with removed shock volume spacer running 17mm sag and with a +1 degree headset, the Yeti is a player, but seems to climb a bit better and is just a tad more comfy all around. The numbers are very similar other than the rear travel, but that will be matched soon enough. I think this is going to be my daily driver for a while now. I've tried quite a few bikes recently and this is the one I think I'll stick with! Can't wait to get some more miles in!!

    Here's a pic of my beloved old 5.5 if you care to see
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  21. #1221
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    I see.. so you basically took the factory DPX2, mail it to Fox and have them take out the travel limiter. And sounds like they "tune" it for you too. Great input. Thanks.

  22. #1222
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yok View Post
    I see.. so you basically took the factory DPX2, mail it to Fox and have them take out the travel limiter. And sounds like they "tune" it for you too. Great input. Thanks.
    They can do that too, but I actually sent in a new 210x55 shock and am having them install the 130 specific tune. I asked them to account for my weight as well. I was hoping to keep the original characteristics of the stock shock tune for the new one. We'll see how it works.

  23. #1223
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    Now I'm wondering if Fox can do the SB130-tune for Fox X2, 210x55 ... is there anyway to find out?

  24. #1224
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yok View Post
    Now I'm wondering if Fox can do the SB130-tune for Fox X2, 210x55 ... is there anyway to find out?
    Call Fox direct, they can get you any info you need. They are always nice and helpful when I call.

  25. #1225
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    Looking at an SB 130 as my next bike. Can any owners comment on the ride? Namely a few reviewers have stated that the bike requires the rider to be 100% on point and riding very aggressively during descents otherwise the front will wash out and handling will suffer. Stating a lot of rider input and body language required for the geo etc.

    I ride aggressively for the most part but also occasionally want to be able to ride a bit more relaxed. Will this bike punish a rider that is not pushing the bike to the limit all the time?

  26. #1226
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn1ck View Post
    Looking at an SB 130 as my next bike. Can any owners comment on the ride? Namely a few reviewers have stated that the bike requires the rider to be 100% on point and riding very aggressively during descents otherwise the front will wash out and handling will suffer. Stating a lot of rider input and body language required for the geo etc.

    I ride aggressively for the most part but also occasionally want to be able to ride a bit more relaxed. Will this bike punish a rider that is not pushing the bike to the limit all the time?
    Rides fine when you just want to plod along. However, you benefit from a more aggressive attack position when pushing the bike. Itís no issue once you get used to it.

  27. #1227
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpress View Post
    Rides fine when you just want to plod along. However, you benefit from a more aggressive attack position when pushing the bike. Itís no issue once you get used to it.
    For me, very much like Evil bikes ride. Fine just motoring around. Front can wash out if you push it hard without properly position and weighting. It's not a neutral setup really. In my opinion, if you like to actively ride and move around the bike, it's fun.

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  28. #1228
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    Agree with other comments. Wouldnít say it punishes relaxed riding. Plods along just fine and I find myself accidentally getting PRís cause itís great in flats and climbs. It does really reward aggressive riding however. When you get a little more forward then you can really feel the front tire hook up. Had a Rallon and the front washed out quite a bit. To the point where I busted my collarbone the last time it happened. No problems w the SB130 so far running a 32mm stem on an XL. (537 reach). 6í2 annoyingly long arms. YMMV

  29. #1229
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    I feel like I've had less worry of front washing with the 44 offset stuff these days. I'm running shorter stems too which may help, but overall my confidence has soared. Love this new bike!

  30. #1230
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn1ck View Post
    Looking at an SB 130 as my next bike. Can any owners comment on the ride? Namely a few reviewers have stated that the bike requires the rider to be 100% on point and riding very aggressively during descents otherwise the front will wash out and handling will suffer. Stating a lot of rider input and body language required for the geo etc.

    I ride aggressively for the most part but also occasionally want to be able to ride a bit more relaxed. Will this bike punish a rider that is not pushing the bike to the limit all the time?
    This is not correct. The SB130 is actually more forgiving than almost all other bikes that donít use the forward body geometry just due to the fact that rider position has been optimized to keep body position more centered over the bottom bracket as well as more weight over the front tire in both aggressive out of the saddle or seated positions.

    What this means is those riders used to shorter wheel base and top tube bikes that constantly hung their butt of the back wheel will need to adapt and adjust to the ďbetterĒ Geometry that the new bike affords and the harder you push the SB130 the more it pays you back with confidence and fun factor.

    Now the SB150 rides considerably larger and longer than the SB130 even though the bikes arenít that different in numbers across the chart but that SB150 takes more body English and faster speeds to come alive but the SB130 is very neutral and balanced with its riding manners in all kinds of terrain.

  31. #1231
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn1ck View Post
    Looking at an SB 130 as my next bike. Can any owners comment on the ride? Namely a few reviewers have stated that the bike requires the rider to be 100% on point and riding very aggressively during descents otherwise the front will wash out and handling will suffer. Stating a lot of rider input and body language required for the geo etc.

    I ride aggressively for the most part but also occasionally want to be able to ride a bit more relaxed. Will this bike punish a rider that is not pushing the bike to the limit all the time?
    I find the SB130 to be great across the board. It's a super forgiving bike, whether riding aggressively or not. I think others captured the essence with their comments.

    One last thing to add re: "modern geometry" is that paying attention to fit is pretty important. Short stays + long + slack can make it less obvious what frame size to get. Equivalent sizes are larger/longer than prior bikes so if you want to be able to have more range of motion/freedom to move on the bike, you may consider the smaller size if "in-between". Some go the other way to reap benefits of greater stability at speed, etc... YMMV, just something to bear in mind.

  32. #1232
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn1ck View Post
    Looking at an SB 130 as my next bike. Can any owners comment on the ride? Namely a few reviewers have stated that the bike requires the rider to be 100% on point and riding very aggressively during descents otherwise the front will wash out and handling will suffer. Stating a lot of rider input and body language required for the geo etc.

    I ride aggressively for the most part but also occasionally want to be able to ride a bit more relaxed. Will this bike punish a rider that is not pushing the bike to the limit all the time?
    I think it is important to not take the reviews and opinions of the bike as hyperbole. It's a bike, not a unicorn. Not trying to be a jerk about it, but I promise you it will not explode if you aren't riding at 9/10ths at all times.

    To get the absolute most out of the bike (front wheel traction), yes, you will need to adjust your positioning if you're used to steering from the rear of the bike. But that's not just true of the sb130 but A LOT of bikes with this "New School" geometry with longer front centers. Once it clicks it feels amazing. I will tell you that it is a bit harrowing charging into a downhill turn and knowing you should be inching fwd on the bike for traction when all other instincts say lean back for self preservation...lol.

  33. #1233
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    I think a lot of these comments come from the Bike Bible review, where they said you need to have a whole new riding style. If I had to pick a bike thats actually true on its the Stumpy EVO. Def not the case with the SB130 in my experience.

    Definitely demo two sizes. I disliked the medium at 5'10" and always felt like I was on top of the bike. Large fits me like a glove.

  34. #1234
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    Thanks for the input all. I figured that the "need to change your riding style entirely" was slightly blown out of proportion from reviewers.

    I am coming from a 2017 Norco Range so not the most modern geo but certainly a long slack bike. I agree that even on that bike I had to change my stance a bit but I guess that's just modern geo as a whole.

    Thanks for the help will let everyone know once I pull the trigger!

  35. #1235
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn1ck View Post
    Thanks for the input all. I figured that the "need to change your riding style entirely" was slightly blown out of proportion from reviewers.

    I am coming from a 2017 Norco Range so not the most modern geo but certainly a long slack bike. I agree that even on that bike I had to change my stance a bit but I guess that's just modern geo as a whole.

    Thanks for the help will let everyone know once I pull the trigger!
    I came from a 2016 Canyon Nerve which is very old school geo. I've had 4 rides on my SB130 now, the first ride felt strange at first, but I adapted quickly and the second ride felt normal again. I didn't feel I had to change my riding style (or maybe it is sub-conscious), but the bike is super fast, grippy and stable and I've set in the region of 40 PRs in just 3 rides (the first ride didn't record) - and I wasn't even trying to set PRs. Many of these PRs where done in slippery muddy conditions (previously set in dry conditions!). I'm by not means a fast rider and I've had no issues with riding the bike - I haven't even noticed it feeling long in tight switchbacks. What I'm saying is, don't worry about it, just ride it. You will adapt and be faster.

  36. #1236
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    I'm coming back around to read this Thread again. I'm not seeing if anybody has listed the frame and shock weight only? I may have missed it because I wasn't about to read every single post again, Hah.

  37. #1237
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    I'm coming back around to read this Thread again. I'm not seeing if anybody has listed the frame and shock weight only? I may have missed it because I wasn't about to read every single post again, Hah.
    Just under 7lbs size L for mine

  38. #1238
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    • Medium black Turq frame = 2567g
    • dpx2 = 425g
    • 11-6 = 893g
    • derailleur hanger = 38g
    • bottle cage screws = 8g
    • seat clamp = 25g
    • rear hexle = 45g


    • 6.85 lbs with dpx2
    • 7.88 lbs with push coil


    It's a pig if you ask me.
    Last edited by jacksonlui; 1 Week Ago at 02:02 PM.

  39. #1239
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    • Medium black Turq frame = 2567g
    • dpx2 = 425g
    • 11-6 = 893g
    • derailleur hanger = 38g
    • bottle cage screws = 8g
    • seat clamp = 25g
    • rear hexle = 45g


    • 8.82 lbs with dpx2
    • 9.85 lbs with push coil


    It's a pig if you ask me.
    My medium Mojo3 was only 5.84 lbs.
    The HD4 with the same shock is 7.25g.
    It needs to come down 1.5lbs I don't care if people think it rides light or whatever.
    1.5lbs is still friggin 1.5lbs.

    Your weight is off a couple pounds. the Frame with shock and hardware is right around 7 pounds depending on size.
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  40. #1240
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    • Medium black Turq frame = 2567g
    • dpx2 = 425g
    • 11-6 = 893g
    • derailleur hanger = 38g
    • bottle cage screws = 8g
    • seat clamp = 25g
    • rear hexle = 45g


    • 8.82 lbs with dpx2
    • 9.85 lbs with push coil


    It's a pig if you ask me.
    My medium Mojo3 was only 5.84 lbs.
    The HD4 with the same shock is 7.25g.
    It needs to come down 1.5lbs I don't care if people think it rides light or whatever.
    1.5lbs is still friggin 1.5lbs.
    I'd rather have the beefier layup on this bike then be the weight of a Ripmo or Mojo3. I wan't durability and performance first and I'll deal with weight after those 2 factors. The previous generation Yeti frames were all in the 5 1/2 pound range and were just not burly enough for the way these bikes are being ridden in varying terrain. The Chain stay area has been beefed up which is a good thing regarding carbon bikes.

    I'm not suggesting that these frames need to be portly but anything around 7 pounds is perfectly acceptable in my opinion. Currently Ibis Ripmos seem to be falling apart specifically regarding seat tube failures as well as down tube issues. No doubt a beefier layup helps.
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  41. #1241
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Your weight is off a couple pounds. the Frame with shock and hardware is right around 7 pounds depending on size.
    3108 grams (frame, dpx2, hanger, axle, etc) = 6.85 lbs. Right around the 7 lbs mark that my Large is. They are still porkers in any case.
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  42. #1242
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    Oops, this was to jacksonlui

    It was 6.98 on my scale with seat collar and axle. Your numbers sounds like the 150, or maybe you're closer to the earth's core with more gravity...

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    Im pretty sure i weighed it properly. Now I'm wondering why mine is a 1lb heavier. Doesnt make sense. Too late to weigh it again. I usually weigh every part before a build. Maybe i didn't zero out the box that it was on but it should be correct.

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  44. #1244
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    Believe me. The hd4 was plenty sturdy.

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    Your individual weights look correct but the total weight math is off. Your listed weight for the bike with the DPX2 is 3108g or 6.85lbs. Not sure where the 8.82 is coming from.

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    Thanks Brian. You're right. Ive edited my post.

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  47. #1247
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I own both and Iím very confident in saying that there is plenty reason that its a perfect 2 bike combo with the way each handle rough and aggressive trail sections completely differently.

    The SB100 as you know is light feeling and snappy even thought itís 2-3 pounds heavier than traditional 100mm travel bikes. The way the SI kinematics work to give ultimate traction and almost zero power loss due to unwanted suspension bob make the bike unique since youíd never need to lock pedal platform which means the sb100 is always compliant.

    The SB130 keeps those exact pedal characteristics in that very little wasted energy but with the added benefit of 30mm more travel along with the ultra aggressive body position geometry separate the capabilities of the 2 bikes.

    Having 1230mm chainstays along with a 65.5 HA and a 77 STA means the bike can be ridden always on edge without the need to scale back on your aggressiveness and with more of your weight centered over the Front center the front wheel traction is unbelievable even on steep climbs and tight turns so the bike still will pull through without feeling like itís pushing in tight sections.....the WB doesnít affect the way the SB130 handles even though youíd think it would maneuver like a boat on slower technical sections and switchbacks.

    There is a huge difference in the 30mm rear travel between these bikes and Iíd argue that the SB130 is easily more comfortable on drops and steep lines than my Ripmo with 145mm travel.

    I think obviously most people would say owning an SB100 and an SB150 would be the perfect 2 bike stable but youíd definitely need the terrain to justify the jump up to the SB150 as that bike is in another class regarding how it needs to be ridden to reward the rider.
    skinnybex

    If you had to decide on keeping one bike for trail riding which would it be - SB100 or SB130? I know everyone's idea of a trail bike is different of course but I mean fairly classic trail bike, lots of short ups and downs, nothing crazy aggressive.

    I feel I'm slightly between the two: definitely never race so don't need an XC bike but feel the 130 is overkill for where I ride, including the 36 fork.

    Something in between would be ideal ... almost like the 4.5

    Thanks!

  48. #1248
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    I have a feeling a lot of us would steer you towards the sb100 then.

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  49. #1249
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    If you feel the sb130 is overkill then ot probably is. The sb100 is plenty capable.

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  50. #1250
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    As others have mentioned, the SB100 is very capable. Allows you to navigate beyond the typical XC+ terrain and into rougher territory. By no means a toe to toe with the SB130, but a lightweight trail rig.

    I enjoy my 4.5 but lately, it has been the SB100 or my singlespeed HT.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Last edited by DesertVelo; 1 Week Ago at 07:14 PM.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  51. #1251
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    Remeber over forking the sb100 by 10mm wont hurt it.

    Chance and I just spent several days together riding our sb150s. Others had sb6 and sb130.

    There were types of trails qe both said a sb100 or sb130, sb45, sb55, sb5 would be fine and maybe funner/better...

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  52. #1252
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93TilInfinity View Post
    I think a lot of these comments come from the Bike Bible review, where they said you need to have a whole new riding style. If I had to pick a bike thats actually true on its the Stumpy EVO. Def not the case with the SB130 in my experience.

    Definitely demo two sizes. I disliked the medium at 5'10" and always felt like I was on top of the bike. Large fits me like a glove.
    The Evo is far more balanced weight distribution wise than an SB130/150. Look at the reach and rear centre lengths.

  53. #1253
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    skinnybex

    If you had to decide on keeping one bike for trail riding which would it be - SB100 or SB130? I know everyone's idea of a trail bike is different of course but I mean fairly classic trail bike, lots of short ups and downs, nothing crazy aggressive.

    I feel I'm slightly between the two: definitely never race so don't need an XC bike but feel the 130 is overkill for where I ride, including the 36 fork.

    Something in between would be ideal ... almost like the 4.5

    Thanks!
    I'd honestly say go SB130 and adapt to whatever terrain and riding ability you ride at. The thing is you'll never regret the purchase once you adapt to the bike and the Geometry.

    The other thing I'd say is ride the 130 in stock trim and at some point you can easily do an airshaft swap and drop the bike to 140mm Fork travel and it would be a great climber and fast flow bike.

    The SB100 punches way above it's weight regarding how confident you'll feel but I believe it's best added to your stable when you can own 2 bikes and have a second longer travel bike.
    Yeti SB150
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  54. #1254
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I'd honestly say go SB130 and adapt to whatever terrain and riding ability you ride at. The thing is you'll never regret the purchase once you adapt to the bike and the Geometry.

    The other thing I'd say is ride the 130 in stock trim and at some point you can easily do an airshaft swap and drop the bike to 140mm Fork travel and it would be a great climber and fast flow bike.

    The SB100 punches way above it's weight regarding how confident you'll feel but I believe it's best added to your stable when you can own 2 bikes and have a second longer travel bike.
    Interesting - I wondered what your perspective would be.

    I don't want to turn the SB130 into something it's not but I am definitely interested in it if it can be run as one-bike trail bike. Yeti seems to bill it more as a replacement for the 5.5 so that's had me hesitant. I feel there's still a gap in their lineup between the SB100 and SB130 to replace the trail-oriented 4.5 but maybe as your saying the SB130 can be built up that way.

    I'd be building it up from frame only so could go with any fork. So it can be run with a 140mm fork? I know Yeti says it can go up to 160mm but haven't seen anything about the other way.

  55. #1255
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    Interesting - I wondered what your perspective would be.

    I don't want to turn the SB130 into something it's not but I am definitely interested in it if it can be run as one-bike trail bike. Yeti seems to bill it more as a replacement for the 5.5 so that's had me hesitant. I feel there's still a gap in their lineup between the SB100 and SB130 to replace the trail-oriented 4.5 but maybe as your saying the SB130 can be built up that way.

    I'd be building it up from frame only so could go with any fork. So it can be run with a 140mm fork? I know Yeti says it can go up to 160mm but haven't seen anything about the other way.
    Iím running an X01 Turq factory build with just a tire swap to Bontrager XR4 up front and Conti CrossKing in back. That drops like over 1.5 pounds of weight and for me turned it into the perfect single quiver bike. I do actually lock it out on long grinder climbs but other than that always leave it in recommended open setting. Does great as a trail or enduro bike.

    It climbs pretty damn well! I climbed Nate Harrison Grade here a couple weeks back which is 4600 feet non stop climb in like 10 miles and never felt like I was on the wrong bike
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-nh.jpg

  56. #1256
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I'd honestly say go SB130 and adapt to whatever terrain and riding ability you ride at. The thing is you'll never regret the purchase once you adapt to the bike and the Geometry.

    The other thing I'd say is ride the 130 in stock trim and at some point you can easily do an airshaft swap and drop the bike to 140mm Fork travel and it would be a great climber and fast flow bike.

    The SB100 punches way above it's weight regarding how confident you'll feel but I believe it's best added to your stable when you can own 2 bikes and have a second longer travel bike.
    You could certainly lighten up this bike to tilt it towards the XC side of the equation. I just completed a 2-day demo. If I buy, I will be buying the XO1 build, and selling off quite a few parts. A set of 1400-1500g wheels, carbon dropper, light brakes (Trickstuff Picolla) and rotors, lighter cassette and I would quickly drop 2.5lbs. And I'm sure you could drop on a lighter stem and bar, and happily run a Fox 34....and light tires of your choice and you would end up with a very efficient "trail" bike.


    Edit: P.S., I meant to reply to Jon, but at least it's the same subject.

  57. #1257
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    As an owner of an SB100, I would not recommend it as an only bike. It's closer to an XC bike than it is a "trail" bike. It's fun and fast, and uber-efficient, but if you ride anything steep, rough, rocky, etc at all I would rather have something a little bit more. It rides closer to my Pivot Mach 429SL than it does my Ripley LS. Not that that's bad, but the Ripley LS is about as "light duty" as I'd wanna go with a one-bike "quiver". Gawd, I hate that word...

    As far as the SB130, you could run an MRP Ribbon fork if the 36 is overkill and save about half a pound and get a plusher, better fork (IMO). I have one on my Ripmo and I'm sold on it as a solid trail fork. It has 35-mm stanchions so if you weigh a lot it might not be so great but for me it's more than plenty stiff.
    Yeti SB100
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    Some bikes with skinny tires

  58. #1258
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    As an owner of an SB100, I would not recommend it as an only bike. It's closer to an XC bike than it is a "trail" bike. It's fun and fast, and uber-efficient, but if you ride anything steep, rough, rocky, etc at all I would rather have something a little bit more. It rides closer to my Pivot Mach 429SL than it does my Ripley LS. Not that that's bad, but the Ripley LS is about as "light duty" as I'd wanna go with a one-bike "quiver". Gawd, I hate that word...

    As far as the SB130, you could run an MRP Ribbon fork if the 36 is overkill and save about half a pound and get a plusher, better fork (IMO). I have one on my Ripmo and I'm sold on it as a solid trail fork. It has 35-mm stanchions so if you weigh a lot it might not be so great but for me it's more than plenty stiff.
    Not sure I agree with you. My SB100 has handled anything and everything pretty well. Riding capabilities have a lot to do with it as well as what you prefer. Yeti's original video showcasing the 100 is pretty accurate. It eats up that type of terrain. Probably the deciding factor for me would be how tight my trail are. For me, we are mostly riding easy coast tight singletract in the woods.

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  59. #1259
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    As a follow-up to my post yesterday, I ran Maxxis aggressor 2.3 in rear on day 1 and my.wheelset from another bike on day 2 which had Aggressor 2.5. Plenty of clearance for me (i28 rim). Since I was riding Enduro trails on day 2, I preferred the larger tire.

    Overall, I give the bike a 10 for what it is. Certainly I'm used to, and would want, more travel if I was going to spend most days in gnar enduro terrain. But, for an aggressive trail bike that would on occasion be used for gnar enduro, this bike seems to fit the bill. I found it to be impressively stable and capable, and I only felt a little overwhelmed a couple times on bigger drops and blasting through big rock gardens full tilt. I also noticed the length just a little bit in some super tight switchback climbs, but i cleared them and most dont...so certainly not bad in this department. Anyways I will probably have to get this bike soon!

    FWIW, I traded for a friends SB5.5 for one run, and after being on the SB130, I did not like it...it felt really short and twitchy in the steering, comparatively.

  60. #1260
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    Finally got her built up how I wanted. Been upgrading since November. Love this bike. Two rides in with the coil. Traction is incredible and the bike still feels lively. Totally worth it.

    XO1 Turq Build XL
    Fork: 150mm FIT4 Push ACS3 (Green Spring)
    Shock: Cane Creek DB IL Coil (550lb)
    Stem: I9 A35 32mm
    Wheels/Rims: Santa Cruz Reserve 30 Carbon on DT350 hubs
    Grips: Diety KnuckleDuster Turq
    Pedals: Deity TMAC
    Weight: 32 lbs

    Everything else stock.

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_0081.jpg

  61. #1261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Headoc View Post
    Finally got her built up how I wanted. Been upgrading since November. Love this bike. Two rides in with the coil. Traction is incredible and the bike still feels lively. Totally worth it.

    XO1 Turq Build XL
    Fork: 150mm FIT4 Push ACS3 (Green Spring)
    Shock: Cane Creek DB IL Coil (550lb)
    Stem: I9 A35 32mm
    Wheels/Rims: Santa Cruz Reserve 30 Carbon on DT350 hubs
    Grips: Diety KnuckleDuster Turq
    Pedals: Deity TMAC
    Weight: 32 lbs

    Everything else stock.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wow. Beautiful! Coincidentally I just PMd somebody on this thread regarding my desire to build up the black frame with the green Hydra hubs paired with matching A35 stem and diety pedals (I have on another bike too). I was giving thought to the new Diety limited edition yeti turquoise bar and seat (I have that seat on other bikes).

    Nice work!

  62. #1262
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    On a frame up build, I'd go for the 36 Grip 2 and reduce to 150mm...probably not a big difference, but I prefer the HSc/LSC vs the 3-position FIT.

    Then I'm wondering if the Elite Performance black stanchions would look better on the black frame...I'd get the Fall Line R dropper too, so the only Kashima then would likely be rear shock.

    Kashima, or black fork?

  63. #1263
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    Did anybody play with Vorsprung Luftkappe + Fractive tune on the stock 150mm Fit4 fork?

  64. #1264
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    Quote Originally Posted by mideas View Post
    Did anybody play with Vorsprung Luftkappe + Fractive tune on the stock 150mm Fit4 fork?
    I did on my Fox 34 SB100. Worked pretty well but not as well as Avalanche tine I have on it now.

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  65. #1265
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    On a frame up build, I'd go for the 36 Grip 2 and reduce to 150mm...probably not a big difference, but I prefer the HSc/LSC vs the 3-position FIT.

    Then I'm wondering if the Elite Performance black stanchions would look better on the black frame...I'd get the Fall Line R dropper too, so the only Kashima then would likely be rear shock.

    Kashima, or black fork?
    I'll make it easy for you. . You'll pay more for P/E unless you can find one used/takeoff.
    Fox doesn't stock 44 offset P/E so if you want new your only options are OEMs like Commencal or Transition:
    https://www.transitionbikes.com/Stor...ks&SC=&P=12501
    They are firm at that price, then $50 for the 150mm air shaft and you swap yourself or pay them to do it, so $950+.

    I got a Factory Grip2 from Dirt Merchant Cycles:
    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2471728/

    $925 dropped to 150mm, free shipping, and Ethan (the owner) was great to work with.

  66. #1266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Headoc View Post
    Finally got her built up how I wanted. Been upgrading since November. Love this bike. Two rides in with the coil. Traction is incredible and the bike still feels lively. Totally worth it.

    XO1 Turq Build XL
    Fork: 150mm FIT4 Push ACS3 (Green Spring)
    Shock: Cane Creek DB IL Coil (550lb)
    Stem: I9 A35 32mm
    Wheels/Rims: Santa Cruz Reserve 30 Carbon on DT350 hubs
    Grips: Diety KnuckleDuster Turq
    Pedals: Deity TMAC
    Weight: 32 lbs

    Everything else stock.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sweet build. I'm also on the CC DB IL and am enjoying it so far. For me, I'd MUCH rather be on the Cane Creek than the stock DPX2. Are you running the Cane Creek as a 52.5mm strok or 55mm stroke? What sort of trails do you ride and if you don't mind sharing your riding weight so others have a data point for spring selection on this bike?

    I'm 235-240lbs in my riding gear. Rode twice w/ a 550lbs spring and about turns of preload, but just decided to move up to a 600lb spring (1 turn of preload). Will have a comparison of the 2 different spring rates later in the week.

  67. #1267
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Sweet build. I'm also on the CC DB IL and am enjoying it so far. For me, I'd MUCH rather be on the Cane Creek than the stock DPX2. Are you running the Cane Creek as a 52.5mm strok or 55mm stroke? What sort of trails do you ride and if you don't mind sharing your riding weight so others have a data point for spring selection on this bike?

    I'm 235-240lbs in my riding gear. Rode twice w/ a 550lbs spring and about turns of preload, but just decided to move up to a 600lb spring (1 turn of preload). Will have a comparison of the 2 different spring rates later in the week.
    No problem. 6'2 around 200lbs riding weight. Ran 230 psi in the DPX2 with about 6 clicks lsc. Was on the 500 with about 1.5 turns of preload and sag was too high. Small bump compliance was good and descending was awesome but found myself way too deep in the travel when climbing and not nearly enough support when really mashing the pedals. Had to really torque the hell out of the pre-load to get sagged in properly which killed the small bump compliance. Went up to 550 and am about 30% with 2 turns pre load. With the 550 I think the bike climbs really well. Better then with the DPX2 cause of the traction. It just monster trucks over everything and never hangs. Comparing both springs, I noticed no meaningful difference on the downs where both springs just crushed it. Just traction everywhere. Eats up everything in the trail. Also with the 550 I am able to get off the ground much easier. Still on the stock settings for the shock so can add those when I get it bit more dialed but the higher spring was the right call.

    It does help that I installed the PUSH ACS3 system in my front fork. That has already saved me a few times when I cased a drop or chose a very poor line at speed.

    I live in the Atlanta area so a lot of rocks and roots but a lot of flow too. The nice thing about the SB130 is that even with the coil the bike is really fun to ride on some of the XC and flow stuff close to home, but with the coil, still does really very well on all the jump lines and local free ride areas without any changes. Plan to take it out to Pisgah and Dupont later this spring and can provide additional details then.

    I would say, particularly with the coil, that it comes about as close to the one quiver bike that you can get. I've owned a Niner RIP9 (2013), Trek Remedy 29(2015) and the new Orbea Rallon (2018). All sold. The SB130 really fits for someone like myself who really just needs one bike. (Where n+1 is the number of bikes you can own before your wife divorces you. N=0 in my case)

  68. #1268
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    Awesome feedback @Headoc...thanks! I'm also running the Push coil system on my fork and echo a lot of the same sentiments. Both upgrades have widened the use case of this bike for me and really make the sb130 a great 1 bike solution.

  69. #1269
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti_SB View Post
    Santa came early. ZERO weight savings.

    Attachment 1230030
    The lettering in pics looks darker than the traditional yeti tourquoise, or no?

  70. #1270
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    For those of you with significant pedal time, for someone looking for a frame up build, would you go with 170mm or 175mm cranks?

  71. #1271
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    I'm on a Medium and would love to have had 170 instead of 175mm
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0
    WAO Agents with I9s

  72. #1272
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    Iím on a large and run 175 cranks. No problems here.

  73. #1273
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    The GX Eagle cranks come in 165 as well. That's what I went with at 5'10". Build should be done by end of the week.

  74. #1274
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    For those of you with significant pedal time, for someone looking for a frame up build, would you go with 170mm or 175mm cranks?
    Iím 6í4Ē and always build my frames with 170 pedals.

  75. #1275
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    Well tough call, but since I run flats with pretty large pedals, I'd likely go 170mm to reduce pedal strikes.

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    I'm currently selecting a dropper post and I'm not sure about length.
    are you happy with the 150mm dropper posts on the yeti builds or would you have preferred something more ?

  77. #1277
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    I'm using the Fox 175 on a large at 6'-1" with plenty of seat tube to spare

  78. #1278
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbkp View Post
    I'm currently selecting a dropper post and I'm not sure about length.
    are you happy with the 150mm dropper posts on the yeti builds or would you have preferred something more ?
    I have short legs and still managed to run a 170mm OneUp dropper at full extension. I even have about 15mm to spare.

  79. #1279
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    175mm fox on sb150

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  80. #1280
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    "seat tube to spare" means that you can push the post deeper into the seat tube, right ?

    my thoughts have been if it really makes sense to have something longer than 150mm, i.e when will your back start to touch the rear tire when the saddle is fully down.

  81. #1281
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    Yes, I have more room to move the whole post down in the seat tube. I don't know if I really need it that long I just don't like ever touching my seat when maneuvering around.

  82. #1282
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    172 cm with shorter legs, medium frame, 170 mm oneup dropper, still 3-4 cm left

  83. #1283
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    The more I ride this bike the more I love it. Demo ride after intro, meh... 1st ride after building my own, pretty good. Last nights ride after a few prior, EFEN awesome! It's a shorter travel bike than I've had since my old 14-16 Scott Geniuses, but man does it perform. Running the shock wide open up and down it's an amazing climber and super plush down and I've not felt like it's hit bottom out yet, but the o-ring tells a different story. 160 up front is helping I'm sure, but the whole package from reach to SA and HA is just the most comfy bike for me to date. I am completely sold. Everything else is going up on PB soon lol. Hopefully everyone else on here is having the same experience!

  84. #1284
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    Well tough call, but since I run flats with pretty large pedals, I'd likely go 170mm to reduce pedal strikes.
    I run flats and 170 cranks, and feel this is a good call. To me definitely helps pedal strikes.

    Other benefits I've experienced:
    - I have short legs and run 170s on my road bike; I'm more comfortable and legs (knees) definitely feel better after long rides
    - I feel more in balance and mobile on descents and gnarly terrain: having my feet slightly closer fore/aft gives me more range of motion on the bike. I can get lower, move better, and engage more hamstring/glut vs. all quads.

  85. #1285
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    I have short legs and still managed to run a 170mm OneUp dropper at full extension. I even have about 15mm to spare.
    Your legs are not short...



    I run a 125 Transfer and it's sitting as low as it can go. You've got 2 inches on me!!!

  86. #1286
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    I run flats and 170 cranks, and feel this is a good call. To me definitely helps pedal strikes.

    Other benefits I've experienced:
    - I have short legs and run 170s on my road bike; I'm more comfortable and legs (knees) definitely feel better after long rides
    - I feel more in balance and mobile on descents and gnarly terrain: having my feet slightly closer fore/aft gives me more range of motion on the bike. I can get lower, move better, and engage more hamstring/glut vs. all quads.
    170mm cranks it is then! I'm putting my custom build in motion tomorrow! Highlights will be Grip2 fork reduced to 150mm, KS Lev ci dropper, custom hoops on I9 Hydras and Trickstuff brakes. Cant wait.

  87. #1287
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    This thread needs more pics! (of mods)

    OK gang, wanted to share a couple of things...

    First is using a strap on an SB130....

    I love having a water bottle cage on this bike, be became dismayed when I tried to strap all of the following on the bike, to truly be able to ride pack free:
    1) 29" tube
    2) dynaplug kit
    3) tire lever
    4) CO2 cartridge + inflator

    I couldn't get everything to fit properly with my BR strap on the frame, so I started by attaching it to the back of the seat. Worked fine until I did some big drops and bottomed out on my rear fender (another winter time mod that is well worth it!)

    After scratching my head, here is what I came up with.

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_6600.jpegYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_6599.jpeg

    By putting the plug kit and CO2 stuff/ tire lever on the sides, it fits nicely in that tiny space at the front of the frame. I've never seen someone do it quite like this (not that I've seen everything!), but thought it might be particularly useful for Yeti SBxx owners struggling to fit a strap on the frame WITH full use of the bottle cage, and not hang from the seat. Also note that I use one end of the tire lever to prevent the CO2 nozzle from rotating on the cartridge... (I got that idea from someone at a bike shop)

    Oh, and yes, that's a Quarq Shockwiz; will post more later on suspension tuning experience with it a later date. Hope everyone has a nice weekend shredding' their Yetis! Woohoo!

  88. #1288
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    One more.. showing fenders...

    Mudhugger Rear - can't recommend more highly for wet riding! Works really, really well, even in rough terrain!

    Mucky Nutz Full Face Front - works well, but still get a bunch of spray from the front. I bought and plan to try out the RRP Proguard Max next wet season.

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_6624.jpeg

  89. #1289
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    Thats pretty much how i have mine. I have park levers, tube, dynaplug, and links with the BR strap.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  90. #1290
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    Does anyone have a line on a medium for sale??? been looking, scouting and hound dogging the ads but the but havent found one yet.

    going out on the Maiden voyage with the sb150 tomorrow
    Jesus Saves

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  91. #1291
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post
    Does anyone have a line on a medium for sale??? been looking, scouting and hound dogging the ads but the but havent found one yet.

    going out on the Maiden voyage with the sb150 tomorrow
    Pretty sure I saw a medium on Pinkbike this week.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  92. #1292
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    OK gang, wanted to share a couple of things...

    First is using a strap on an SB130....

    I love having a water bottle cage on this bike, be became dismayed when I tried to strap all of the following on the bike, to truly be able to ride pack free:
    1) 29" tube
    2) dynaplug kit
    3) tire lever
    4) CO2 cartridge + inflator

    I couldn't get everything to fit properly with my BR strap on the frame, so I started by attaching it to the back of the seat. Worked fine until I did some big drops and bottomed out on my rear fender (another winter time mod that is well worth it!)

    After scratching my head, here is what I came up with.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6600.jpeg 
Views:	55 
Size:	237.6 KB 
ID:	1243390Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6599.jpeg 
Views:	58 
Size:	288.1 KB 
ID:	1243391

    By putting the plug kit and CO2 stuff/ tire lever on the sides, it fits nicely in that tiny space at the front of the frame. I've never seen someone do it quite like this (not that I've seen everything!), but thought it might be particularly useful for Yeti SBxx owners struggling to fit a strap on the frame WITH full use of the bottle cage, and not hang from the seat. Also note that I use one end of the tire lever to prevent the CO2 nozzle from rotating on the cartridge... (I got that idea from someone at a bike shop)

    Oh, and yes, that's a Quarq Shockwiz; will post more later on suspension tuning experience with it a later date. Hope everyone has a nice weekend shredding' their Yetis! Woohoo!
    What's wrong with mounting your strap and stuff beneath the cage, where the old bottle mounts used to be?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  93. #1293
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    You could certainly lighten up this bike to tilt it towards the XC side of the equation. I just completed a 2-day demo. If I buy, I will be buying the XO1 build, and selling off quite a few parts. A set of 1400-1500g wheels, carbon dropper, light brakes (Trickstuff Picolla) and rotors, lighter cassette and I would quickly drop 2.5lbs. And I'm sure you could drop on a lighter stem and bar, and happily run a Fox 34....and light tires of your choice and you would end up with a very efficient "trail" bike.


    Edit: P.S., I meant to reply to Jon, but at least it's the same subject.
    This is the way I'm leaning - building up the 130 with a Fox 34 and 2.3 tires (same ones as on the SB100).

    FWIW I asked Nate Hills (who like skinnybex has obviously spent a fair bit of time on both the 100 and 130) the question too and he had the same reply as skinnybex: go with a more trail-oriented build on the SB130 vs a SB100.

  94. #1294
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Thats pretty much how i have mine. I have park levers, tube, dynaplug, and links with the BR strap.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Great minds!

    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    What's wrong with mounting your strap and stuff beneath the cage, where the old bottle mounts used to be?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    Definitely an option but same downsides of mounting the water bottle underneath: gets dirty, and not protected (risk of damaging the tube)

  95. #1295
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    I use to mount it underneath and found the tube got too dirty and was exposed to chances towards damage

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  96. #1296
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinjohn View Post
    OK gang, wanted to share a couple of things...

    First is using a strap on an SB130....

    I love having a water bottle cage on this bike, be became dismayed when I tried to strap all of the following on the bike, to truly be able to ride pack free:
    1) 29" tube
    2) dynaplug kit
    3) tire lever
    4) CO2 cartridge + inflator

    I couldn't get everything to fit properly with my BR strap on the frame, so I started by attaching it to the back of the seat. Worked fine until I did some big drops and bottomed out on my rear fender (another winter time mod that is well worth it!)

    After scratching my head, here is what I came up with.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6600.jpeg 
Views:	55 
Size:	237.6 KB 
ID:	1243390Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6599.jpeg 
Views:	58 
Size:	288.1 KB 
ID:	1243391

    By putting the plug kit and CO2 stuff/ tire lever on the sides, it fits nicely in that tiny space at the front of the frame. I've never seen someone do it quite like this (not that I've seen everything!), but thought it might be particularly useful for Yeti SBxx owners struggling to fit a strap on the frame WITH full use of the bottle cage, and not hang from the seat. Also note that I use one end of the tire lever to prevent the CO2 nozzle from rotating on the cartridge... (I got that idea from someone at a bike shop)

    Oh, and yes, that's a Quarq Shockwiz; will post more later on suspension tuning experience with it a later date. Hope everyone has a nice weekend shredding' their Yetis! Woohoo!
    I found I don't need tyre levers with my tyre/rim combo and I have my plug kit is in my handlebar (Sahmurai Sword 2.0). So I only need to mount the innertube and CO2 with head. I found folding the innertube flatter allows room to have the CO2 above it. This is on a medium frame.

    PS. I also have a ShockWiz (nothing to report so far).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3831.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 T-Series Custom Build
    (Not a Dentist)

  97. #1297
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    To all the SB130 lovers

    DREAM BUILD MTB - YETI SB130

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DQErOnan6rQ

    If itís been posted already (sorry), if not enjoy

  98. #1298
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    To all the SB130 lovers

    DREAM BUILD MTB - YETI SB130

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DQErOnan6rQ

    If itís been posted already (sorry), if not enjoy
    Wow. First class build for sure. The look of the Burg text of isn't my favorite, And I need some bling hubs would take it up a notch. But I'd roll it, ha

  99. #1299
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    To all the SB130 lovers

    DREAM BUILD MTB - YETI SB130

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DQErOnan6rQ

    If itís been posted already (sorry), if not enjoy
    haven't seen this before, super nice build! still prefer Nate Hill's build videos but can't complain much about this one!

    does anybody know what kind grease is that white one he was using everywhere?

  100. #1300
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    I found I don't need tyre levers with my tyre/rim combo and I have my plug kit is in my handlebar (Sahmurai Sword 2.0). So I only need to mount the innertube and CO2 with head. I found folding the innertube flatter allows room to have the CO2 above it. This is on a medium frame.

    PS. I also have a ShockWiz (nothing to report so far).
    Nice! Tight!

    I guess my tube got some air in it and could not get it compressed nearly as much as you. Is that a 29" tube? I've heard some some people carry a smaller tube because it stretches out anyway....

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