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  1. #2401
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    Started riding my new SB130 in July last summer. I'm old, not super light, not heavy, not riding crazy shit. Rode it a fair bit. Service visit found an impact under the rubber on the top of the triangle. Yeti refused to warranty it. Looks like an impact to me. Just goes to show ya, you can be skating down and ruin some frame from a loose rock and not because you are hanging it out.

  2. #2402
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    Quote Originally Posted by t-tbone View Post
    under the rubber on the top of the triangle. Yeti refused to warranty it. Looks like an impact to me.
    Curious where that is and what it looks like if you have a pic.

  3. #2403
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    Hi. Does anyone know the weight of the L and XL frames? I canít find this info anywhere? Thanks

  4. #2404
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    A couple questions:

    DT SWISS CUSTOM EX1700 30MM - whatís everyoneís impressions on this wheelset?

    The way I view the world, I can ride this wheel if itís FINE and eventually take them off and replace with a carbon set.

    Or if they are not fine I can take them off before I ride the bike and HOPEFULLY sell them for $350+ and use that money towards carbon wheels on day 1.

    So would love honest opinions.



    Second issue:

    Has anyone ridden the E*Thirteen LGR+ Carbon? Whatís your thoughts on the wheel and hub?

  5. #2405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Staktup View Post
    Congrats! Just curious why you chose 130 over 140, and how tall you are.



    I run a 40 Renthal Apex on my Medium frame- I think a 50 would make the long reach even longer which I don't want (I'm 5'8").
    I rode the 130 and 140 in southern Utah.

    I live in northern Utah.

    Southern Utah trails are different enough that itís not easy to tell how these bikes will ride on my home trails.

    That said - I ride southern Utah often enough I think I got a good enough idea.

    I am coming off of a custom build sb66 with a 160mm 36 fork and a DPX2 shock. Iíve also recently ridden:

    Sb5.5
    Sb5
    Sb5LR
    SB6
    Megatower
    Hightower

    SB140 - didnít feel as playful as advertised. Still a playful bike. Honestly felt almost the same as my sb66 - which isnít a bad thing - I LOVE that bike. Oh, except I hated the tires on the 140 which left me with a little bit of a bad taste the whole time. I think it was a C2 build.

    By contrast... I felt faster both up and down on the 130, and it felt equally as playful when I wanted it to.

    First time Iíve owned a 29er.


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  6. #2406
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    Quote Originally Posted by DNW View Post
    Curious where that is and what it looks like if you have a pic.
    The rubber wasn't peeling back at all so the missing paint wasn't visible until it was pulled back at the shop.

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img-7070.jpgYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img-7069.jpg

    Picked up the bike from the shop today with the new triangle. Had to buy a new brake line, frame protection, and $150 labor to get my $500 triangle replaced. Quite a bill instead of the couple of hundred I planned on for suspension and brake service.

    Shop said the 2019 SB130 Turq triangles are known to be too weak and that for 2020 Turq bikes come with non-Turq triangles. Yeti knows they are a problem but won't stand behind them.

  7. #2407
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    Quote Originally Posted by t-tbone View Post
    The rubber wasn't peeling back at all so the missing paint wasn't visible until it was pulled back at the shop.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Picked up the bike from the shop today with the new triangle. Had to buy a new brake line, frame protection, and $150 labor to get my $500 triangle replaced. Quite a bill instead of the couple of hundred I planned on for suspension and brake service.

    Shop said the 2019 SB130 Turq triangles are known to be too weak and that for 2020 Turq bikes come with non-Turq triangles. Yeti knows they are a problem but won't stand behind them.
    wonít stand and wonít admit the problem it seems! Curious thing that they say the turq and non-turq have the same strength with the turq series being a little lighter!

  8. #2408
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    wonít stand and wonít admit the problem it seems! Curious thing that they say the turq and non-turq have the same strength with the turq series being a little lighter!
    The shop are standup folks. They heavily discounted everything at the end and felt bad about the hand delt. I don't fault them at all and have always had a good experience.

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    At least it seems most shops are stand up folks that try to help customers despite the lack of transparency from yeti! even with your case being most likely impact related when yeti determined the 2019 rear triangle is subpar and needed redesign or moved to a stronger(?) non-turq according to the shop, they should have replaced it for you for free!

  10. #2410
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build




    Just picked up my new bike. 2020 130tLR. Stock so far. First upgrades this week will be:

    Ride Wrap
    EDC in Steer Tube
    Iíll likely order a 35mm stem and try it out back to back with 50mm stem

    What else?


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  11. #2411
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123ski View Post



    Just picked up my new bike. 2020 130tLR. Stock so far. First upgrades this week will be:

    Ride Wrap
    EDC in Steer Tube
    Iíll likely order a 35mm stem and try it out back to back with 50mm stem

    What else?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    WolfTooth ReMote Light Action

    Like everything else you've listed above, this is a ęcheapĽ upgrade but it does make a difference on the trail! Soooo smooth... very valuable when you consider how many times you use it during a ride

    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...e-light-action

  12. #2412
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    WolfTooth ReMote Light Action

    Like everything else you've listed above, this is a ęcheapĽ upgrade but it does make a difference on the trail! Soooo smooth... very valuable when you consider how many times you use it during a ride

    https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...e-light-action
    Thanks, how different Is it than the The Race Face 1x design option (as opposed to the fox 1x design option)?

    Fox says the RF 1x features a larger lever that pivots on precision bearings for smooth action and reduced force.


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    Quote Originally Posted by 123ski View Post
    Thanks, how different Is it than the The Race Face 1x design option (as opposed to the fox 1x design option)?

    Fox says the RF 1x features a larger lever that pivots on precision bearings for smooth action and reduced force.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Itís simply the best on the market IMO! Mega smooth, grippy and super reliable ... and it stays that way for years!

  14. #2414
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertVelo View Post
    I am running the stock 150mm Fox 36 but I ended up replacing my Factory DPX2 52.5mm with a Cane Creek DBCoilIL 55mm - the same stroke as the SB130LR. While not exactly a direct comparison from a stock setup, the 6mm increase of travel (130mm to 136mm) is negligible. As far as sag is concerned, 30% of 2.5 mm (52.5mm to 55mm stroke) translates to a .75mm increase.

    Not much to report for the "long" shock and the 150mm fork combination other than it rides as expected (great!). However, the coil shock is definitely an improvement. Getting settings dialed for my weight and style.
    Which spring are you running? Considering a switch to a DB IL.
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Which spring are you running? Considering a switch to a DB IL.
    I am using Cane Creek's VALT 2.25x450 (AAD1764) spring with the 210x55 (BAD1857) shock. The 55mm stroke is the same as length as the SB130LR. No change in geometry, just the additional mm of rear travel.

    I rode the SB130 yesterday for the first time since December (riding a different bike). The SB130 is so capable and I realized how much I enjoy the coil shock. Such a great combination in performance. If you decide to go there coil route, take the time to adjust the shock, well worth the time and investment.

    Let me know if you need anything else.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Sent from the singletrack...

  16. #2416
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertVelo View Post
    I am using Cane Creek's VALT 2.25x450 (AAD1764) spring with the 210x55 (BAD1857) shock. The 55mm stroke is the same as length as the SB130LR. No change in geometry, just the additional mm of rear travel.

    I rode the SB130 yesterday for the first time since December (riding a different bike). The SB130 is so capable and I realized how much I enjoy the coil shock. Such a great combination in performance. If you decide to go there coil route, take the time to adjust the shock, well worth the time and investment.

    Let me know if you need anything else.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Thanks, I was thinking about the VAULT Progressive may be better with the 130 but maybe the linear one would be preferred?
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    Hi there friendly forum folks. I'm looking to buy a new bike, coming off of a V1 Bronson. I've narrowed it to either a Ripmo or an SB130 after a number of demos. I thought for sure the 130 would have been not enough travel until I rode one - now I'm leaning 130.

    I have Easton Haven carbon wheels on the Bronson, and have it built to under 28 lbs. I can't help but be a bit of a weight weenie, and I tend to keep bikes for 5+ years, so don't mind dropping some extra coin on light wheels. Does anyone have any opinions on, or experience with, the DT SWISS XMC 1200 upgrade option? I generally have a high opinion of DT swiss, and the price seems right, but I did read a Pinkbike review of the beefier EXC 1200s that they broke. I'm only about 165 lbs. I ride fairly hard, but I guess I'm "light on the bike," and I've never had any issue with my Havens. Think the XMC Splines will hold up and are worth the $1,400?

    Thanks for all of the great tips on this thread as I spec my new rig.

  18. #2418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Thanks, I was thinking about the VAULT Progressive may be better with the 130 but maybe the linear one would be preferred?
    Good question... I have not had the need for the progressive spring since my shock tuning appears to be working. I weigh about 154lbs/70.5kg with 1.5 turns on the preload and no harsh bottom outs. My terrain is mixed with occasional jumps and drops (decent size).

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Sent from the singletrack...

  19. #2419
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    Thanks, I was thinking about the VAULT Progressive may be better with the 130 but maybe the linear one would be preferred?
    The leverage rate (12%) does the job really well, no need for the progressive spring

  20. #2420
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    Quote Originally Posted by CAmountainjam View Post
    Hi there friendly forum folks. I'm looking to buy a new bike, coming off of a V1 Bronson. I've narrowed it to either a Ripmo or an SB130 after a number of demos. I thought for sure the 130 would have been not enough travel until I rode one - now I'm leaning 130.

    I have Easton Haven carbon wheels on the Bronson, and have it built to under 28 lbs. I can't help but be a bit of a weight weenie, and I tend to keep bikes for 5+ years, so don't mind dropping some extra coin on light wheels. Does anyone have any opinions on, or experience with, the DT SWISS XMC 1200 upgrade option? I generally have a high opinion of DT swiss, and the price seems right, but I did read a Pinkbike review of the beefier EXC 1200s that they broke. I'm only about 165 lbs. I ride fairly hard, but I guess I'm "light on the bike," and I've never had any issue with my Havens. Think the XMC Splines will hold up and are worth the $1,400?

    Thanks for all of the great tips on this thread as I spec my new rig.
    I bought my SB 130 at the very end of September 2019 and got the DT Swiss XMC 1200 upgrade. Even with excessive rain this winter I've managed to get over 1,400 miles on this bike so far with at least 80% of that on the rockiest trails I can find. While I don't do big drops I do medium sized jumps and small/medium drops. I always try to ride as light/smooth as possible but my favorite trails are very chunky with lots of boulders, baby-heads and ledges. My ready to ride weight is 190 pounds and these wheels have held up great and are much more responsive and faster feeling than the 1700s that were on the 130 I demoed for 5 days on 4 different trail systems before I bought this bike. I did the 54 tooth upgrade to the hub (because why wouldn't you) as soon as I got the bike so I can't compare it to the stock set up but the 54 tooth star ratchet engages fast and is very easy to take apart and re-grease. Beyond all that, the 130 is probably my favorite mountain bike I've ever owned, probably due to the fact that it so perfectly suits my riding style. I've recently cut the spacer on the rear shock to bring the rear travel up to ~137mm and installed a Grip2 damper in place of the Fit 4 which has me at almost a "Lunch Ride" setup. I've left the fork travel at 150mm for now until I get some more miles at all my favorite riding areas but I've already purchased the 160mm air shaft (since it's fairly cheap) so I can go to the longer travel easily if I decide to in the future. I've kept all my changes incremental with lots of miles in between to allow me to fully evaluate where the bike is (performance-wise) and where I want it to go. Good luck with whichever way you decide to go!

  21. #2421
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    SB130LR Owner here... I run the SC Reserve 30's with DT350 hubs and 54t ratchet. Honestly they are no lighter than the aluminum DTs that shipped with the bike and I could have upgraded that ratchet set. But I already owned the SC wheels and love the "feel" of compliant carbon wheels. Anyway, Yetis are expensive so if you need to save some $$ keep the stock wheelset. Your V1 Bronson wheels are not 148 spacing so you'll need a new hub anyway (not sure what fork you have but you might need a new hub there as well).

    Related note to other post on this thread about soft rear triangle. I am 220lbs ready to ride. XL frame. No issues with my rear triangle. I don't hit big stuff or get too airborne. But have bottomed out several times and don't have any damage ...FWIW.



    Quote Originally Posted by stephentt1 View Post
    I bought my SB 130 at the very end of September 2019 and got the DT Swiss XMC 1200 upgrade. Even with excessive rain this winter I've managed to get over 1,400 miles on this bike so far with at least 80% of that on the rockiest trails I can find. While I don't do big drops I do medium sized jumps and small/medium drops. I always try to ride as light/smooth as possible but my favorite trails are very chunky with lots of boulders, baby-heads and ledges. My ready to ride weight is 190 pounds and these wheels have held up great and are much more responsive and faster feeling than the 1700s that were on the 130 I demoed for 5 days on 4 different trail systems before I bought this bike. I did the 54 tooth upgrade to the hub (because why wouldn't you) as soon as I got the bike so I can't compare it to the stock set up but the 54 tooth star ratchet engages fast and is very easy to take apart and re-grease. Beyond all that, the 130 is probably my favorite mountain bike I've ever owned, probably due to the fact that it so perfectly suits my riding style. I've recently cut the spacer on the rear shock to bring the rear travel up to ~137mm and installed a Grip2 damper in place of the Fit 4 which has me at almost a "Lunch Ride" setup. I've left the fork travel at 150mm for now until I get some more miles at all my favorite riding areas but I've already purchased the 160mm air shaft (since it's fairly cheap) so I can go to the longer travel easily if I decide to in the future. I've kept all my changes incremental with lots of miles in between to allow me to fully evaluate where the bike is (performance-wise) and where I want it to go. Good luck with whichever way you decide to go!
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
    2018 YT Capra CF Pro 29er XXL - sold
    2016 Yeti SB5.5c XL - sold
    SW Washington

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    Nice, sounds like they've worked out well then. It's pretty obnoxious that a wheel set like that doesn't come with the 54 tooth upgrade, but what are you gonna do.

    Yeah, I was pretty blown away by my couple of demo rides as well. I still haven't ridden the 140, and want to do that before I pull the trigger (never had a 29er), but in all likelihood I'll be on a 130 soon enough, assuming supply chain doesn't break down..

    Thanks for the help!

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    @ LaCostaClydesdale, yeah definitely can't run the Havens, but I agree with you about the feel of carbon wheels. That SC Reserve warranty is very tempting as well..

  24. #2424
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    FYI

    Make yourself a favor and disassemble the Switch Infinity + Link extender assembly from time to time (twice a year??) to give it a good clean and check.

    I discovered 2 problems while doing it today.

    1) - One of the SI slider was scratched, it looks as if something bypassed the seal and got stuck. It doesnít look like rubbing. Itís a proper scratch! Weird!
    The other one is in perfect condition.

    It was behind the seal so I could not see the damage before disassembling the SI.



    2) - The 2 main bearings of the link extender (attached to the shock) were shot. One did not rotate anymore and the other one was notchy as hell. That means the rear shock and linkage canít work properly because everything is seized. The trick is ... you canít really feel it because of the leverage + weight ... it does move. You realize how bad it is when you put your finger in the bearing and try to rotate ... and it doesnít! The two 6902LLUMAX-E cost about $20 and itís fairly easy to swap if you have the tools so make sure you check them from time to time!




  25. #2425
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    Good advice. Did that with my SB55 a few years ago. Just this weekend I was thinking that the small bump compliance at slow speed (roots, rocks while climbing) was not great. Going to "lube" it first through the grease ports and see how it goes.
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
    2018 YT Capra CF Pro 29er XXL - sold
    2016 Yeti SB5.5c XL - sold
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  26. #2426
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    FYI

    Make yourself a favor and disassemble the Switch Infinity + Link extender assembly from time to time (twice a year??) to give it a good clean and check.

    I discovered 2 problems while doing it today.

    1) - One of the SI slider was scratched, it looks as if something bypassed the seal and got stuck. It doesnít look like rubbing. Itís a proper scratch! Weird!
    The other one is in perfect condition.

    It was behind the seal so I could not see the damage before disassembling the SI.



    2) - The 2 main bearings of the link extender (attached to the shock) were shot. One did not rotate anymore and the other one was notchy as hell. That means the rear shock and linkage canít work properly because everything is seized. The trick is ... you canít really feel it because of the leverage + weight ... it does move. You realize how bad it is when you put your finger in the bearing and try to rotate ... and it doesnít! The two 6902LLUMAX-E cost about $20 and itís fairly easy to swap if you have the tools so make sure you check them from time to time!



    Good info.

    Do you happen to know if they are the same size as the bearings in the SI link? My frame is about 3/4 months old and with the lovely UK weather we have had for that period (rain, rain & more rain) mine were a bit ropey anyway, have repacked them with grease but could do with stocking them up, as they are easy to replace by the looks of things.

    But, I can't find the size/code - if you had it apart, thought it worth asking. I know they are part of the kit but different bearings wear at different rates, so don't want to buy a whole kit each time.

  27. #2427
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    Good info.

    Do you happen to know if they are the same size as the bearings in the SI link? My frame is about 3/4 months old and with the lovely UK weather we have had for that period (rain, rain & more rain) mine were a bit ropey anyway, have repacked them with grease but could do with stocking them up, as they are easy to replace by the looks of things.

    But, I can't find the size/code - if you had it apart, thought it worth asking. I know they are part of the kit but different bearings wear at different rates, so don't want to buy a whole kit each time.
    Nothingís written on the side of the SI bearings but on the SB5 thread I found the ref: 6900-LLU-MAX-EB

    Edit: my bad, I read your post too quickly and thought you were asking about the SI bearings.

    The main/big ones on the link/extender are 6902-LLU-MAX-E, so no they are not the same.

    If you need the ref and quantity of bearings you can always check the owner's manual. (The SI bearings are not listed because they want you to buy the whole part again, but now you know what to order if you ever need them)

    https://yeticycles.s3.amazonaws.com/...nual_SB130.pdf

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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Good advice. Did that with my SB55 a few years ago. Just this weekend I was thinking that the small bump compliance at slow speed (roots, rocks while climbing) was not great.
    Thatís exactly what triggered the strip down!

    I run a coil shock but the rear was getting harsher on small bumps at low speed. Now I know why

  29. #2429
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Nothingís written on the side of the SI bearings but on the SB5 thread I found the ref: 6900-LLU-MAX-EB

    Edit: my bad, I read your post too quickly and thought you were asking about the SI bearings.

    The main/big ones on the link/extender are 6902-LLU-MAX-E, so no they are not the same.

    If you need the ref and quantity of bearings you can always check the owner's manual. (The SI bearings are not listed because they want you to buy the whole part again, but now you know what to order if you ever need them)

    https://yeticycles.s3.amazonaws.com/...nual_SB130.pdf
    It was for the SI Link bearings - i know they have 'very' limited rotation, but the NDS was not in a good way. Dissapointing if they expect you to buy a whole new SI Link if a bearing is grumpy however.

    I'm assuming the bearings in the SI Link are comparable across different frames, i'll pick up a couple and swap them out, they look nice & easy to change.

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    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    It was for the SI Link bearings - i know they have 'very' limited rotation, but the NDS was not in a good way. Dissapointing if they expect you to buy a whole new SI Link if a bearing is grumpy however.

    I'm assuming the bearings in the SI Link are comparable across different frames, i'll pick up a couple and swap them out, they look nice & easy to change.
    Yes I guess the SI bearings are always the same across all Yetis!

    Never had to swap them but they seem easy to remove! Watch out for the shock extender assembly bearings ... they are the ones getting stressed the most and in my case they were done.

  31. #2431
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Anybody thinking about getting the new 11.6?

    Darren from Push has spent all season last year riding the SB130!

    He talks about it briefly on a Vital podcast: https://www.buzzsprout.com/78237/145...-murphy-part-2 where he says the SB130 is a really good candidate for coil ... well I knew that already as I run a coil since day 1 on this frame but itís worth mentioning for those of you who think about it



    Last edited by digev; 1 Week Ago at 12:40 PM.

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    I just ordered the CC DB Inline coil, excited to try it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bannerman View Post
    I just ordered the CC DB Inline coil, excited to try it.
    Thatís a treat, it works really well and itís mega light with the SLS spring! I just fancy trying something else for this season

  34. #2434
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    @digev I thought I had read or watched a Switch Infinity suspension analysis that said these bikes are NOT designed for Coil. That the kinematics are designed around the progressive nature of an air shock. Are you finding that is not the case?
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
    2018 YT Capra CF Pro 29er XXL - sold
    2016 Yeti SB5.5c XL - sold
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    @digev I thought I had read or watched a Switch Infinity suspension analysis that said these bikes are NOT designed for Coil. That the kinematics are designed around the progressive nature of an air shock. Are you finding that is not the case?
    The SI has nothing to do with it!

    Previous SB generations had almost no progressivity (almost linear leverage curve with no progression at the end of the stroke, 5% on average) thatís why theyíve been labeled as not ęgood candidatesĽ for coil shocks ... but ask anyone who owned a SB6 or SB5.5 with a coil on it and they'll tell you it was working great! I owned both with a DHX2 and CCDB Coil IL and they were the best two bikes Iíve ever had. Go figure.

    Push made coil shocks along with the right tune for those bikes as well, it tells you something. (At the same time you could read a thousand articles about the SB5/5.5/6 stating something like ęgreat bikes ... too linear for coils ... the end)

    The new SB generations however are made to work great with coil shocks from the get go! The average leverage curve of the SB150 is at 15% and 12% for the SB130!

    There seems to be a lot of ęnoiseĽ around frames not being compatible with coils shocks, but honestly ... more often than not thatís just hot air ... just for the sake of saying something (pretty common thing in the MTB World)! Take the 2020 Tallboy or HT for example, they are not made for coil shocks ... blah-blah-blah ... apart from the fact that you have to make sure the spring does not contact the frame because of the funnel around the rear shock ... it works great "AGAIN", riders love it and itís improving their ride!

    Donít listen too much about people/magazines or even manufacturers saying itís not possible, itís not gonna work or whatever ... get closer to people who try/tried and you'll have a better understanding/overview of whatís really possible ... it will open new opportunities and youíll probably learn a few things along the way, thatís more exciting anyway

    To summarize:

    SB130 + Coil =

  36. #2436
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    Just built her up!

  37. #2437
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Anybody thinking about getting the new 11.6?
    I'm currently considering a coil shock. Have had an 11-6 before, but wasn't totally blown away by it, certainly wasn't head & shoulders above everything else.

    Given my bike is mostly my do everything, including racing thing (if and when we can again this year) I don't want to turn it into a heavy(ier) one trick pony. The ILCoil is a candidate, as from memory with a lightweight spring it's comparable to a DPX2 anyway?

    Have the potential of a EXT Storia for similar money to a new IL Coil, so may well do that. Probably not the time to blow money on a new shock right now, and can't really ride anyway!

  38. #2438
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    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    It was for the SI Link bearings - i know they have 'very' limited rotation, but the NDS was not in a good way. Dissapointing if they expect you to buy a whole new SI Link if a bearing is grumpy however.

    I'm assuming the bearings in the SI Link are comparable across different frames, i'll pick up a couple and swap them out, they look nice & easy to change.
    FYI

    https://www.instagram.com/p/B8oSdP3n...=1qzmp88ptpqzx

  39. #2439
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    Quote Originally Posted by CAmountainjam View Post
    Hi there friendly forum folks. I'm looking to buy a new bike, coming off of a V1 Bronson. I've narrowed it to either a Ripmo or an SB130 after a number of demos. I thought for sure the 130 would have been not enough travel until I rode one - now I'm leaning 130.

    I have Easton Haven carbon wheels on the Bronson, and have it built to under 28 lbs. I can't help but be a bit of a weight weenie, and I tend to keep bikes for 5+ years, so don't mind dropping some extra coin on light wheels. Does anyone have any opinions on, or experience with, the DT SWISS XMC 1200 upgrade option? I generally have a high opinion of DT swiss, and the price seems right, but I did read a Pinkbike review of the beefier EXC 1200s that they broke. I'm only about 165 lbs. I ride fairly hard, but I guess I'm "light on the bike," and I've never had any issue with my Havens. Think the XMC Splines will hold up and are worth the $1,400?

    Thanks for all of the great tips on this thread as I spec my new rig.
    I have the upgrade on my LR. I'm pretty happy with them with this exception:

    I came off a 5010 with a light bicycles carbon wheelset with Onyx hubs and compared to them, the hubs on the DT setup are inferior. Granted I don't have the tooth upgrade, but I miss the Onyx hubs. They have a sprag clutch with zero degrees of engagement. There's no pawls, instead there's a series of cams that engage on a smooth cylinder instantaneously. So the second you engage, the hub does too. Which is rad.

    It's also silent (no pawls), which is a little weird at first but u forget about it pretty quick. I bought my LR used and it came with the upgraded wheelset so it wasn't a choice for me. Overall I like them, but if I had a beef, it would be clunky engagement. For what it's worth. . .

    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

  40. #2440
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by CAmountainjam View Post
    Hi there friendly forum folks. I'm looking to buy a new bike, coming off of a V1 Bronson. I've narrowed it to either a Ripmo or an SB130 after a number of demos. I thought for sure the 130 would have been not enough travel until I rode one - now I'm leaning 130.

    I have Easton Haven carbon wheels on the Bronson, and have it built to under 28 lbs. I can't help but be a bit of a weight weenie, and I tend to keep bikes for 5+ years, so don't mind dropping some extra coin on light wheels. Does anyone have any opinions on, or experience with, the DT SWISS XMC 1200 upgrade option? I generally have a high opinion of DT swiss, and the price seems right, but I did read a Pinkbike review of the beefier EXC 1200s that they broke. I'm only about 165 lbs. I ride fairly hard, but I guess I'm "light on the bike," and I've never had any issue with my Havens. Think the XMC Splines will hold up and are worth the $1,400?

    Thanks for all of the great tips on this thread as I spec my new rig.
    Custom built Light Bicycle rims (whatever width you fancy) + DT240 Straight Pull + Sapim CX Ray

    They are incredibly good value for money! My 3rd pair

    XD 28H 30mm ID 35mm OD (843g for the rear wheel)



  41. #2441
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    Lovely looking wheels. Personally, after two sets of LBs, a set of the older Enves, and now riding Mavic XA Pro carbon for some time, I have to say there's a noticeably better ride feel on the Mavics. I broke a set of the DT 1200s, just too light for proper Enduro use. LBs are great value for money as you say, and if low-cost weight saving is the priority, I'd not hesitate in buying them, but if you're after outright ride quality, I found the LBs stiff and harsh, and having ridden back-to-back, I'd spend the extra cash and go Mavic. They're readily easily found at great prices too! It was this pro review put me into them in the first place
    https://www.google.com/amp/s/singlet...on-wheels/amp/

  42. #2442
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    Ultimately I guess it depends, if you're building your 130 as a trail bike, rather than a enduro 'lite' then the XMC's are probably a great wheelset. I had no issues with mine on my old Fuel, super light & spin up fast. With a light weight set of tyres on, they flew

    But I wouldn't use them on my 130 - as i've amalgamated two bikes into one (enduro race bike & burly trail bike) it needs to be able to put up with some stick & bad line choice when i'm tired & smashing into everything.

    I've used a lot of carbon wheels in the past, and unfortunately broken a lot of them too, now I don't use them at all, for a few reasons.

    I have a couple of wheelsets; a set of XM1501's & effectively the same, some 28H DT 240S's on some XM481's. They weigh less than pretty much most 'enduro' carbon wheelsets, obviously cost less, ride better & last longer. Wheels have become that classic boring component now that I never have to think about, which is a win I guess

  43. #2443
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    Quote Originally Posted by humdinger View Post
    Lovely looking wheels. Personally, after two sets of LBs, a set of the older Enves, and now riding Mavic XA Pro carbon for some time, I have to say there's a noticeably better ride feel on the Mavics. I broke a set of the DT 1200s, just too light for proper Enduro use. LBs are great value for money as you say, and if low-cost weight saving is the priority, I'd not hesitate in buying them, but if you're after outright ride quality, I found the LBs stiff and harsh, and having ridden back-to-back, I'd spend the extra cash and go Mavic. They're readily easily found at great prices too! It was this pro review put me into them in the first place
    https://www.google.com/amp/s/singlet...on-wheels/amp/
    Fair enough! Testing is key while you can, thatís true.

  44. #2444
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    Ultimately I guess it depends, if you're building your 130 as a trail bike, rather than a enduro 'lite' then the XMC's are probably a great wheelset. I had no issues with mine on my old Fuel, super light & spin up fast. With a light weight set of tyres on, they flew

    But I wouldn't use them on my 130 - as i've amalgamated two bikes into one (enduro race bike & burly trail bike) it needs to be able to put up with some stick & bad line choice when i'm tired & smashing into everything.

    I've used a lot of carbon wheels in the past, and unfortunately broken a lot of them too, now I don't use them at all, for a few reasons.

    I have a couple of wheelsets; a set of XM1501's & effectively the same, some 28H DT 240S's on some XM481's. They weigh less than pretty much most 'enduro' carbon wheelsets, obviously cost less, ride better & last longer. Wheels have become that classic boring component now that I never have to think about, which is a win I guess
    I guess it depends where you live, what you ride, your weight, the type of tires and width, what you like etc... so many variables but as long as you find something youíre happy with, itís all good

    I choose carbon rims here not because they are lighter but because they last longer than the alloy. The rear rim will pretty much be done after 2 years of abuse, rock strikes, harsh single tracks we have around here but they only cost $200 to replace and I'm good for another 2y. I run a 2.5WT DHF (EXO or DD) + CushCore XC and that setup is holding great (for me, where I live and what I ride). You are right, once youíve found the right setup/balance for YOU then it becomes a boring part that you donít even think about anymore ... and thatís good LOL.

  45. #2445
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    I hear you, and agree overall. The Mavics have taken two seasons of abuse, including continuous Alpine smashing during the summer, and not skipped a beat. Only ~1550g I clouding tape and valves, so very light too. XM481s are solid alloy rims though, and not too heavy.
    Personally, I'll stick with the Mavics as the weight and acceleration are superb, and so far they're pretty bombproof under a 95kg rider. Got mine for £800 brand new, so barely any more than good alloy ones

  46. #2446
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    One year in on my 130LR, has anyone opted to replace the bearings with this set? Worth it?

    https://www.yeticycles.com/gear/part...t-2019-current

    Figured it might be a good time to give my LBS some business and have them replace bearings.

  47. #2447
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    Out of stock...I used Enduro Max Bearing set from Real World Cycles on my SB5.5, but don't see an SB130 kit on their website. Just SB100. If your LBS has the bearings I say go do it. The fact that Yeti is sold out is somewhat concerning... why so much need to replace bearings.

    I just dropped my bike off for Fork and Air Can service... Once that is back, then I'll determine if the bearings are in need of replacement.
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
    2018 YT Capra CF Pro 29er XXL - sold
    2016 Yeti SB5.5c XL - sold
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  48. #2448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endubro45 View Post
    One year in on my 130LR, has anyone opted to replace the bearings with this set? Worth it?

    https://www.yeticycles.com/gear/part...t-2019-current

    Figured it might be a good time to give my LBS some business and have them replace bearings.
    You can get all the bearings ref from the ownerís manual otherwise it's written on the side (on the seals). As long as you buy ęqualityĽ bearings like the stock Enduro bearings youíll be fine and it will probably cost you less. Just saying ...


  49. #2449
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    The SI has nothing to do with it!


    Previous SB generations had almost no progressivity (almost linear leverage curve with no progression at the end of the stroke, 5% on average) thatís why theyíve been labeled as not ęgood candidatesĽ for coil shocks ... but ask anyone who owned a SB6 or SB5.5 with a coil on it and they'll tell you it was working great! I owned both with a DHX2 and CCDB Coil IL and they were the best two bikes Iíve ever had. Go figure.


    Push made coil shocks along with the right tune for those bikes as well, it tells you something. (At the same time you could read a thousand articles about the SB5/5.5/6 stating something like ęgreat bikes ... too linear for coils ... the end)


    The new SB generations however are made to work great with coil shocks from the get go! The average leverage curve of the SB150 is at 15% and 12% for the SB130!


    There seems to be a lot of ęnoiseĽ around frames not being compatible with coils shocks, but honestly ... more often than not thatís just hot air ... just for the sake of saying something (pretty common thing in the MTB World)! Take the 2020 Tallboy or HT for example, they are not made for coil shocks ... blah-blah-blah ... apart from the fact that you have to make sure the spring does not contact the frame because of the funnel around the rear shock ... it works great "AGAIN", riders love it and itís improving their ride!


    Donít listen too much about people/magazines or even manufacturers saying itís not possible, itís not gonna work or whatever ... get closer to people who try/tried and you'll have a better understanding/overview of whatís really possible ... it will open new opportunities and youíll probably learn a few things along the way, thatís more exciting anyway


    To summarize:


    SB130 + Coil =
    Hello digev and everyone.

    I have read several interventions where you are happy with the operation of the cane creek DBcoil IL shock. I finally installed a Fox X2 210x55 on my SB130, but I intend to try a coil shock when I hit the mountain in the future.

    Regardless of weight and price, which shock absorber would you choose from the following?

    Cane Creek DBcoil IL + SLS spring
    Cane Creek DBcoil IL + Valt progressive spring
    Cane Creek DBcoil CS + SLS spring
    Cane Creek DBcoil CS + Valt progressive spring
    Fox DHX2 + SLS spring
    Fox DHX2 + Progressive spring

    I have also read that you think that the SB130 does not need a progressive spring, but ......... why not a little more progressivity?

    Do you think the bicycle would work worse with a progressive spring?

    Thank you.

  50. #2450
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    I just got confirmation from Yeti that the Fork and Shock ship with NO volume spacers...even on the XL. When I get mine back from getting serviced, I am going to try adding spacers. Anyone here in the 200-225lbs range using volume spacers? Curious what your using and how you like the results.
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
    2018 YT Capra CF Pro 29er XXL - sold
    2016 Yeti SB5.5c XL - sold
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  51. #2451
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    I am 205 with gear on a large LR version. I have a .4 spacer in the rear with around 230psi, no spacers in the fork but have the Luftkappe installed and run 80 psi up front. I am happy with that setup and have confirmed its pretty much spot on with a Shockwiz.

  52. #2452
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    Anyone tried the CC progressive coil?? i am curious to try as I still have the CC DB inline with the 550lb spring sitting on my parts bench

  53. #2453
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    The SI has nothing to do with it!

    Previous SB generations had almost no progressivity (almost linear leverage curve with no progression at the end of the stroke, 5% on average) thatís why theyíve been labeled as not ęgood candidatesĽ for coil shocks ... but ask anyone who owned a SB6 or SB5.5 with a coil on it and they'll tell you it was working great! I owned both with a DHX2 and CCDB Coil IL and they were the best two bikes Iíve ever had. Go figure.

    Push made coil shocks along with the right tune for those bikes as well, it tells you something. (At the same time you could read a thousand articles about the SB5/5.5/6 stating something like ęgreat bikes ... too linear for coils ... the end)

    The new SB generations however are made to work great with coil shocks from the get go! The average leverage curve of the SB150 is at 15% and 12% for the SB130!

    There seems to be a lot of ęnoiseĽ around frames not being compatible with coils shocks, but honestly ... more often than not thatís just hot air ... just for the sake of saying something (pretty common thing in the MTB World)! Take the 2020 Tallboy or HT for example, they are not made for coil shocks ... blah-blah-blah ... apart from the fact that you have to make sure the spring does not contact the frame because of the funnel around the rear shock ... it works great "AGAIN", riders love it and itís improving their ride!

    Donít listen too much about people/magazines or even manufacturers saying itís not possible, itís not gonna work or whatever ... get closer to people who try/tried and you'll have a better understanding/overview of whatís really possible ... it will open new opportunities and youíll probably learn a few things along the way, thatís more exciting anyway

    To summarize:

    SB130 + Coil =
    Seems like a great example of confirmation bias. Per what Iíve seen on the kinematics, coil just isnít a great idea on this bike - kinda hard to argue with math. I appreciate that you know these bikes are 12% and 15% progressive respectively, but thatís arguably borderline for a coil shock. But youíre right, some people wonít mind using all their travel frequently. Maybe Iím the odd one out.

    Now you could mitigate some of the issue using a shock with hydraulic bottom control or a progressive spring.

    I know this offends a lot of yíall but I think itís unfair that people come to a thread looking for answers to potential changes in their setup and they are met with a deluge of stoke (often fueled by spending a bunch of money on admittedly awesome products) rather than factual discourse.

    So coil worked well on these bikes in your personal experience - interesting datapoint. But are they designed optimally around a coil shock - debatable.

  54. #2454
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    The leverage rate (12%) does the job really well, no need for the progressive spring
    Maybe if you're 150 lbs... for the life of me I don't know how any aggressive rider can get away with a coil shock without a progressive rate spring on this bike - it is NOT a progressive leverage curve (12% is NOTHING compared with, say, YT Industries designs) and most on air shocks are even having to add air can spacers to keep from harsh bottom outs...

    To each their own,

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  55. #2455
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123ski View Post
    Thanks, how different Is it than the The Race Face 1x design option (as opposed to the fox 1x design option)?

    Fox says the RF 1x features a larger lever that pivots on precision bearings for smooth action and reduced force.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The RF lever (that comes stock on the '20 versions) works great - very little difference from the Wolf Tooth so save your $75. I think a lot of posters are comparing the Fox POS that came on the 2019 version. The best upgrade is to clip out the travel reducer in the shock and get a 203mm front rotor (if you didn't get the LR version).

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  56. #2456
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    Quote Originally Posted by CAmountainjam View Post
    Hi there friendly forum folks. I'm looking to buy a new bike, coming off of a V1 Bronson. I've narrowed it to either a Ripmo or an SB130 after a number of demos. I thought for sure the 130 would have been not enough travel until I rode one - now I'm leaning 130.

    I have Easton Haven carbon wheels on the Bronson, and have it built to under 28 lbs. I can't help but be a bit of a weight weenie, and I tend to keep bikes for 5+ years, so don't mind dropping some extra coin on light wheels. Does anyone have any opinions on, or experience with, the DT SWISS XMC 1200 upgrade option? I generally have a high opinion of DT swiss, and the price seems right, but I did read a Pinkbike review of the beefier EXC 1200s that they broke. I'm only about 165 lbs. I ride fairly hard, but I guess I'm "light on the bike," and I've never had any issue with my Havens. Think the XMC Splines will hold up and are worth the $1,400?

    Thanks for all of the great tips on this thread as I spec my new rig.
    I had a Bronson V1 with carbon hoops in the high 27's and now have a 130 with the XMC 1200's. It's a pound heavier overall but kills the Bronson in every category. Do it, you won't regret it.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  57. #2457
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Maybe if you're 150 lbs... for the life of me I don't know how any aggressive rider can get away with a coil shock without a progressive rate spring on this bike - it is NOT a progressive leverage curve (12% is NOTHING compared with, say, YT Industries designs) and most on air shocks are even having to add air can spacers to keep from harsh bottom outs...

    To each their own,

    G MAN
    I agree, but I've read some riders be happy with a coil shock on this bike, including Nate Hills.

    Maybe I lose time and money, but I want to see for myself. I think I will choose a progressive spring. I weigh 190 lbs and don't worry about hitting bottom 2 or 3 times a day if I win the rest of the trail.

  58. #2458
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    Whatís the improvement then if you have to use progressive springs?
    Air should me more versatile throughout the year normally.


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  59. #2459
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    I agree, but I've read some riders be happy with a coil shock on this bike, including Nate Hills.

    Maybe I lose time and money, but I want to see for myself. I think I will choose a progressive spring. I weigh 190 lbs and don't worry about hitting bottom 2 or 3 times a day if I win the rest of the trail.
    Hey Uzzy,

    I was ready to write a very detailed reply with some interesting info/facts and go over some myths and misconceptions ... especially on Yeti SB frames but it seems it would be a waste of time so I'd rather exchange with you in private and keep that conversation positive, open minded and fun for both!

    Send me a PM Buddy I'd be very glad to try and help you with questions regarding coil shocks.

    FYI, I'm not on a crusade and tell people they must do this and not do that, in a matter of fact quit the contrary ... test/try/innovate/think out of the box/share and most importantly find the right setup for you, your needs because what matters most is how YOU feel on the bike ... regardless of what others think or tell you to do, they arenít riding your bike ... so do whateverís needed to improve your experience. We are all different and like different things, thereís no right or wrong.

    If youíre happy with your DPX2 (or anything else) then keep riding it and get stocked ... thatís the end goal

    I compete at the national level here in France and at the end of the season you can take 2 riders with similar rankings and they'll have completely different setups and completely different ideas about what's necessary to get their bike dialed! Surprisingly enough we donít talk much about it and when we do itís to feed from each other.

    I'll just finish by citing Darren @ Push Industries. ę... the new 130s and 150s are reaaaal at home with the ElevenSix ...Ľ

    But hey ... what does he know

    Source: https://www.buzzsprout.com/78237/145...-murphy-part-2

    At 00:24:45

    No matter the bike, the trail, the setup ... enjoy the adventure and keep the stock high! Thatís what you'll remember in a few years

    Stay safe everyone
    Last edited by digev; 1 Week Ago at 12:32 PM.

  60. #2460
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    Neither is going to be a fully optimal setup for 100% of the trail, I do think a coil-like air shock is basically the best all-around choice, but if most of the time or enjoyment is going to be made up in the first half of the travel, there are lots of merits to being sub-optimal on big hits where HSC, frame compliance, and other things all conspire to make a lack of kinematic progressivity in the frame less problematic... saying one can't do that is silly, or implying it isn't worth somebody looking at it... just lay out the limitations, and since the bike comes with a shock, most riders can analyze what they're wanting more of, and where they can tolerate some compromise.

  61. #2461
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    I'll just finish by citing Darren @ Push Industries. ę... the new 130s and 150s are reaaaal at home with the ElevenSix ...Ľ

    But hey ... what does he know
    PUSH uses hydraulic bottom out control AND a progressive spring in their ElevenSix to avoid the problem altogether at a cost that many cannot afford (or, like me, see as foolish to drop that much coin when you can get TWO Whistler season passes for less). You are comparing apples to oranges. So the REAL question is... How much do you weigh digev???

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  62. #2462
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    Are you sure about the spring? I did not follow much of the v2 discussion but looks like the bottom out bumper was providing the progression at the end of the stroke.

    but you are correct that push can mitigate some of the issues with a less progressive curve better than other shocks

  63. #2463
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    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    I'm currently considering a coil shock. Have had an 11-6 before, but wasn't totally blown away by it, certainly wasn't head & shoulders above everything else.
    Sorry to hear your experience wasn't up to par....certainly not the norm or what we expect. What bike was it on, and did you purchase it new from us?

    Darren

  64. #2464
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    Iíve had a pushĎed shock before and back then, half of the magic was to have the shock to match rider weight, style and frame characteristics.
    Correct me if Iím wrong, but the further youíre away from the usual rider type, the more you should win from any type of custom shock.


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  65. #2465
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    Darren, maybe you can share with us why the new PUSH 11-6 is a good match for the SB130 and itís lightly progressive suspension design. Iím curious. I like the lively poppy sensation from an air shock but have never ridden a coil trail bike before. I am concerned the coil will take the agility and nimbleness out of the bike, which is one of the things I like so much about it.

    Quote Originally Posted by PUSHIND View Post
    Sorry to hear your experience wasn't up to par....certainly not the norm or what we expect. What bike was it on, and did you purchase it new from us?

    Darren
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    2018 YT Capra CF Pro 29er XXL - sold
    2016 Yeti SB5.5c XL - sold
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  66. #2466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radical_53 View Post
    Iíve had a pushĎed shock before and back then, half of the magic was to have the shock to match rider weight, style and frame characteristics.
    Correct me if Iím wrong, but the further youíre away from the usual rider type, the more you should win from any type of custom shock.
    Sometimes that's the case, but with our limited fit list with ELEVENSIX it's really about giving every rider a "wow" experience. If that's not the case then we want to know, and will work with the rider to ensure that result. We have incredibly high expectations for every rider on our product no matter how close they are to what the industry dictates as "average".

    Darren, maybe you can share with us why the new PUSH 11-6 is a good match for the SB130 and itís lightly progressive suspension design. Iím curious. I like the lively poppy sensation from an air shock but have never ridden a coil trail bike before. I am concerned the coil will take the agility and nimbleness out of the bike, which is one of the things I like so much about it.
    We really don't consider the new crop of SB bikes to be "lightly progressive" but rather decently progressive based on the percentage of rate change(over 11%) from start to finish in it's travel. That being said, a lot of the progression does come late in the travel. As with every shock we build we take into consideration the bikes characteristic, as well as it's intended use to come up with a unique package specific to those parameters.

    In regards to the SB130, I did have the opportunity to spend all of last season on one so I obviously have a lot of experience with both air and coil on that bike. I can also say that the SB130 ws one of our top 3 selling ELEVENSIX shock applications in 2019 so we have a lot of rider feedback on that particular setup. Every shock we build for that bike is a "long-stroked" LR version and bumps the wheel travel out to 138mm. With the ELEVENSIX I would argue that agility and nimbleness increases and with the new version just released even more. That trait comes from reducing the wallowiness of the suspension on compression rather than changes to the rebound damping as a lot of riders think. The ability to push into the suspension and not have it just marshmallow into the travel is an advantage that we have without compromising plushness. That's really the balance.

    Darren

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    My second go on the SB130 and I'm glad I gave her another shot. One of the most capable and great all around mid-travel 29ers. After borrowing one for a few weeks and really dialing it in, I finally adapted to the new school geo. I have been riding for 14 years and the seated position / long wheelbase really threw me off but after narrowing the bars down to 770 and lowering the bars to get me over the front end more, I've grown to love this bike. Its still no rocket like the SB100 so I'll be keeping it as well but man, this SB130 can really get rowdy and pedals really damn good for what its capable of.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-9a8bfce4-fb20-4a00-b960-f4ea143cb7d2.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-578d6bba-8b44-4a36-9111-5a82afb0b434.jpg  

    Last edited by kumquat; 4 Days Ago at 09:07 PM.

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    Awesome bike. Progressive spring.

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    Question before I order a dropper--where does the right side cable port terminate inside the frame? I want to try and use it for rear brake moto-style with an AXS dropper post-thanks.

  71. #2471
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    Have no dealers near me and also can only go out for essential trips due to the lock down! So visiting bike shops are out of the question. What size frame are you 6,1 guys riding. L or XL? Yeti size chart says Large I'm just over 6,1 but have long legs so my saddle height is 800 mm from centre of the bb to top of the saddle. Which I think would may look ridiculous on a 450mm seat tube length. A dealer I spoke to recommended a Large also. I can get a good deal on a frame at the moment but I think this deal may not last very long. But I have reservations and think the XL may be better?! Thank you

  72. #2472
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    Iím still waiting for my change to do an extended test right.
    With that amount if coin at play, Iíd rather be sure.
    Iím 6Ď4 and Iíve heard everything from dealers. One said I could use L or XL, while he vouched for XL, another dealer said I could choose between M, L and XL, depending on my preferences.


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  73. #2473
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    I am 6'0" with a 34" inseam and gave a L. I am happy on that but feel like I am right at the edge of the range for the L and would consider an XL for sure.

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    Canít wait for my 11.6 to show up Darren!

  75. #2475
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockinrod35 View Post
    Question before I order a dropper--where does the right side cable port terminate inside the frame? I want to try and use it for rear brake moto-style with an AXS dropper post-thanks.
    Inside the downtube in front of the port door opening just ahead of the bottom bracket. Might get away with it using some "selective" drilling (to access the left side lower port) but I'm not so sure I would go there.

    Have FUN!

    G
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  76. #2476
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    Thanks for the size references. Sounds like XL would definitely be worth considering. Still haven't had any confirmed weights of the L and XL frames. Iv searched the web high and low and struggling to find this info. I'm looking at quite a few different frames in this category. Yeti UK distributor just gave me full build weights. But don't know if its S,M,L or XL. Other I'm looking at is the new Ripmo which is 3100 grams in an XL. Pretty light. Thank you

  77. #2477
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    Hi.

    The weight of my 2020 SB130 Turq Series frame in Turquoise color and size M with DPX2 shock, rear axle, and seat clamp is 3.260g (7.187 lbs).
    Last edited by Uzzy; 21 Hours Ago at 10:50 PM.

  78. #2478
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    More information about weight:

    SB130 2020 Turq Series frame in turquoise and size M with rear axle, seat clamp and shock hardware = 2,835 gr

    Fox DPX2 = 425 gr
    Fox X2 = 593 gr
    Invisiframe = 88 gr
    Impakt = 39 gr

    The weight of my SB130 2020 frame in turquoise and size M with shock hardware, Fox X2, rear axle, seat clamp and protection (nvisiframe + impakt) = 3,555 g.

    Regards
    Last edited by Uzzy; 20 Hours Ago at 10:54 PM.

  79. #2479
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick123 View Post
    Thanks for the size references. Sounds like XL would definitely be worth considering. Still haven't had any confirmed weights of the L and XL frames. Iv searched the web high and low and struggling to find this info. I'm looking at quite a few different frames in this category. Yeti UK distributor just gave me full build weights. But don't know if its S,M,L or XL. Other I'm looking at is the new Ripmo which is 3100 grams in an XL. Pretty light. Thank you
    Iím 5í10 and on a medium with a 50mm stem. This is a long bike and there is no way in hell Iíd want to ride a large.

    Riding the sb100 and sb130 back to back and having also owned the ripmo v1, I would not worry about weight. Especially if you get a nice light weight wheelset, youíll be very happy with the pedaling efficiency of the sb130.

  80. #2480
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlev View Post
    Canít wait for my 11.6 to show up Darren!


    Darren

  81. #2481
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    Thanks very much for the detailed weight info Uzzy it's really helpful.

  82. #2482
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    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Iím 5í10 and on a medium with a 50mm stem. This is a long bike and there is no way in hell Iíd want to ride a large.

    Riding the sb100 and sb130 back to back and having also owned the ripmo v1, I would not worry about weight. Especially if you get a nice light weight wheelset, youíll be very happy with the pedaling efficiency of the sb130.
    I too am 5í10 but with a long wingspan and a large is perfect, I couldnít imagine being on a medium

  83. #2483
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    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Iím 5í10 and on a medium with a 50mm stem. This is a long bike and there is no way in hell Iíd want to ride a large.
    I'm 5'10 on a large with a 40mm stem and would not want to ride a medium. After riding the SB130 since it was released the medium feels to small now.

  84. #2484
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    Does anybody know the maximum insertion of the sb130 in large? trying to see if a 175mm transfer can be slammed for my future build. Thanks!

  85. #2485
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radical_53 View Post
    Iím still waiting for my change to do an extended test right.
    With that amount if coin at play, Iíd rather be sure.
    Iím 6Ď4 and Iíve heard everything from dealers. One said I could use L or XL, while he vouched for XL, another dealer said I could choose between M, L and XL, depending on my preferences.


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    No way would I put you on a size L sb130. I'm 5'10" and ride the size L as a big trail bike. If a dealer said you could ride a size M or L, I wouldn't do any sort of business with that shop...EVER.

  86. #2486
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    More information about weight:

    SB130 2020 turquoise frame and size M with rear axle, seat clamp and shock hardware = 2,835 gr

    Fox DPX2 = 425 gr
    Fox X2 = 593 gr
    Invisiframe = 88 gr
    Impakt = 39 gr

    The weight of my SB130 2020 frame in turquoise and size M with shock hardware, Fox X2, rear axle, seat clamp and protection (nvisiframe + impack) = 3,555 g.

    Regards
    I'm assuming this is a TURQ frame as well?

  87. #2487
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    Did we ever get a confirmation on whether the rear triangles have changed for 2020? I thought I saw somewhere in this thread that the shapes are slightly different for more rear tire clearance. Wondering if flex has also been tightened up.



    -Ron.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    More information about weight:

    SB130 2020 turquoise frame and size M with rear axle, seat clamp and shock hardware = 2,835 gr

    Fox DPX2 = 425 gr
    Fox X2 = 593 gr
    Invisiframe = 88 gr
    Impakt = 39 gr

    The weight of my SB130 2020 frame in turquoise and size M with shock hardware, Fox X2, rear axle, seat clamp and protection (nvisiframe + impack) = 3,555 g.

    Regards
    What is this impack/impakt you are mentioning?

  89. #2489
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Did we ever get a confirmation on whether the rear triangles have changed for 2020? I thought I saw somewhere in this thread that the shapes are slightly different for more rear tire clearance. Wondering if flex has also been tightened up.
    Yeti isn't about to say as that would only open them up to claims from 2019 owners. I have seen exactly ZERO cracked frames above the SI link for the '20 model year nor complaints and the frame weight is up about 1/4 lb so... As for rear end flex - that issue was with the loose shock bushings in the first run of 2019's and hasn't been a problem since. My '20 is solid as a rock - zero rear end flex; I laugh at the notion even!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  90. #2490
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    Quote Originally Posted by senorbanana View Post
    Does anybody know the maximum insertion of the sb130 in large? trying to see if a 175mm transfer can be slammed for my future build. Thanks!
    I have a 175mm Transfer on my Medium so no worries whatsoever...

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  91. #2491
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUSHIND View Post


    Darren
    Hey Darren,

    Can you please comment on the yoke suspension designs and the strain it puts on coil shocks? I'm assuming that's why you went with high-strength (and diameter?) shaft as well as spherical moto bushings for the eyelets to deal with the side-loading the Eleven6 can see with bikes like Yeti, Spesh and Ibis? Is the service interval the same for yoke bikes? Would love to try one but have been hesitant as I used to destroy coil shocks (including PUSHed DHX's) on a regular basis.

    Cheers,

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  92. #2492
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    Quote Originally Posted by senorbanana View Post
    Does anybody know the maximum insertion of the sb130 in large? trying to see if a 175mm transfer can be slammed for my future build. Thanks!
    I have 210mm OneUp Components Dropper Post on my 2020 SB130 Size L.

  93. #2493
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    I'm assuming this is a TURQ frame as well?
    Yes, Turq series

    I have edited the posts.

  94. #2494
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    Quote Originally Posted by senorbanana View Post
    What is this impack/impakt you are mentioning?
    1.2mm frame protector

    https://www.thebikevillage.com/busca...submit_search=

  95. #2495
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    Jared Graves is 5'10"

    https://www.instagram.com/p/B8IzLnrD..._web_copy_link

    Todayís #protiptuesday I wanted to talk about bike sizing. I thought it might be interesting to do some riding on my 2016 ( well I rode this in 15 but this was a 2016 model and 2016 parts)@yeticycles #sb6c. Most of the parts are very similar or the same as what us still being used today, the suspension also had quite a bit of love from fox, and Iíd say they are fairly comparable to the stock suspension of today. The switch infinity system has evolved but is still largely the same. So the only real major difference is sizing and geometry, and 27.5 wheels.

    Sure Iíve only had one ride on it but, itís been more than enough to confirm what Iíve been thinking for a few years now, that bikes sizing and geometry has reached a point where weíve hit the sweet spot, sorry @pinkbike I donít think the grim donut is going to catch on haha.
    So the 2016 medium sb6 has a reach of 421 and the 2020 medium sb150 has a reach of 460, so quite a big step up in length. I also tried a large sb150 at 480 reach and knew straight away it was too big for me. Which confirmed my thoughts of preferring a bike that is a bit small over a bike that is a bit big. I think people put too much focus on the positive traits of the (new school) longer reach numbers, like more room for better body position and room to move the bike around underneath you for more stability. And gloss over what the older,smaller sizes do well (better in tight turns and easier to throw around) I think people need to try sizes and work out what works best for them and donít just choose a size based from what the current trends are for longer, slacker, lower. Because to be honest I think some companies have gone too far.

    I guess the main point of what Iím trying to say is that I think the current bigger bikes are better overall but if your in between sizes and canít decide, I would strongly reccomend the smaller size. I was pretty surprised that I could go back to a frame almost 40mm shorter, and be comfortable on it within a few minutes of total descending time. This thing is still a ton of fun to ride.

    What I will say for sure though is that Iím sooooo glad we have longer than 125mm dropoer posts now! Haha

  96. #2496
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    Any bike could benefit from having spherical bearings in the shock eyelets.

    Nice vid from Geometron.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/B8My9vMH...=16pdpmags7uql

  97. #2497
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    Jared Graves is 5'10"

    https://www.instagram.com/p/B8IzLnrD..._web_copy_link

    Todayís #protiptuesday I wanted to talk about bike sizing. I thought it might be interesting to do some riding on my 2016 ( well I rode this in 15 but this was a 2016 model and 2016 parts)@yeticycles #sb6c. Most of the parts are very similar or the same as what us still being used today, the suspension also had quite a bit of love from fox, and Iíd say they are fairly comparable to the stock suspension of today. The switch infinity system has evolved but is still largely the same. So the only real major difference is sizing and geometry, and 27.5 wheels.

    Sure Iíve only had one ride on it but, itís been more than enough to confirm what Iíve been thinking for a few years now, that bikes sizing and geometry has reached a point where weíve hit the sweet spot, sorry @pinkbike I donít think the grim donut is going to catch on haha.
    So the 2016 medium sb6 has a reach of 421 and the 2020 medium sb150 has a reach of 460, so quite a big step up in length. I also tried a large sb150 at 480 reach and knew straight away it was too big for me. Which confirmed my thoughts of preferring a bike that is a bit small over a bike that is a bit big. I think people put too much focus on the positive traits of the (new school) longer reach numbers, like more room for better body position and room to move the bike around underneath you for more stability. And gloss over what the older,smaller sizes do well (better in tight turns and easier to throw around) I think people need to try sizes and work out what works best for them and donít just choose a size based from what the current trends are for longer, slacker, lower. Because to be honest I think some companies have gone too far.

    I guess the main point of what Iím trying to say is that I think the current bigger bikes are better overall but if your in between sizes and canít decide, I would strongly reccomend the smaller size. I was pretty surprised that I could go back to a frame almost 40mm shorter, and be comfortable on it within a few minutes of total descending time. This thing is still a ton of fun to ride.

    What I will say for sure though is that Iím sooooo glad we have longer than 125mm dropoer posts now! Haha
    I disagree, when I bought my last bike (evil insurgent) i was on the fence of M vs L and went medium for poppyness and playfulness. I immediately regretted it for riding, too short and compact. On my sb130 I parking lot tested a M and L and instantly knew the L was the right bike, I think it is all personal prefernce. The longer size L makes it ride more like a dh bike to me, whereas the M felt more like a 4x bike.

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    Thanks! I'll take a look when I get the frame. Unlikely I will do any drilling though.

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    Finally put on my Megatower chain stay protector -- curious to see if I notice a difference.

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-image_2020_04_06t15_30_01_524z.jpg

    *bike was cleaned shortly after* lol

  100. #2500
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlev View Post
    I disagree, when I bought my last bike (evil insurgent) i was on the fence of M vs L and went medium for poppyness and playfulness. I immediately regretted it for riding, too short and compact. On my sb130 I parking lot tested a M and L and instantly knew the L was the right bike, I think it is all personal prefernce. The longer size L makes it ride more like a dh bike to me, whereas the M felt more like a 4x bike.
    It really depends a lot on the bike itself and your preferences.
    Personally I get along much better on a bike thatís too short than one thatís too long, but then still the best bike is the one that simply fits


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    It definitely depends on your riding style, however the numbers don't lie.. Why did 29ers suck at first? Yeti called them clown bikes and Giant proclaim 27.5 the best wheel size. The reason was older geometry / certain suspension design made 29ers have long chain stays and wheelbases, which made them handle like shit. By shortening the wheelbase and tucking in the rear tires by shortening the chainstays through redesigned suspension and wider hubs, it made the bike more playful and easier to handle. Once the industry solved that, they convinced us 29ers kick ass now and they were right. As riders realized the benefits of 29ers they kept pushing the boundaries on 29ers that for the most part were being designed as XC and trail bikes. They wanted them slacker for a more aggressive / confidence inspiring ride. However, because of the slack seattube angle, it made slack bikes climb like shit. So we made the seat tube steeper to aid slacker bikes on the climbs. This made the cockpit way to short. So, they increased the top tube / reach. As a result we are pushing the limits on stability vs handling.

    The reason most people size up is for the cockpit feel. For me, a seated cockpit is only aided during a sustained climb, the rest of my ride has me out of the saddle which makes the seated reach pointless. I would much prefer a shorter cockpit during climbing vs too long of a bike while I'm cornering, jumping, and on a technical climb. If you're the type of rider who slows down through corners and just wants a bike to be stable at higher speed and easier through the downhill chunk, then I can see the benefits of sizing up.

    Keep in mind, at 5'10 with a 50mm stem and my saddle pushed back, i am by no means uncomfortable while in the seated position on my medium frame. I'm not sacrificing much for a more playful, poppier, and quicker handling riding experience.

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    https://youtu.be/RoaXrFhhncI

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    Yeti Cycles sb45c/sb150

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