Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build - Page 12- Mtbr.com
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  1. #2201
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    Dissector 2.4 on the Front will Grip and Corner better than DHF 2.5 and DHRII 2.4, when at the same time it'll roll faster than DHF 2.3 and DHRII 2.3.
    I'm in a process of building my 2020 SB130 and planning on running with Dissector 2.4 Front and Back until it'll get rainy here in NorCal and then I'll switch the rear to Forekaster 2.35 as well.
    Forekaster in general is one of my favorite tires. I used Forekaster 29x2.35 Front and Rear on my SB100 all last season. And soon will be building Ibis DV9 hardtail with Forekaster 29x2.6 Front and Rear.
    But the new Dissector is definitely my new favorite tire.


    Happy Shredding
    I don't know what terrain you ride on but on the terrain the Dissector is designed for (dry and dusty) it does not get near the grip of a DHF or a DHRII in front or rear.

    There's quite a difference between the Dissector and the DHF on the front, the DHF being able to handle much more pressure thru the front and digs in for way longer than the Dissector.

    On the rear the DHRII brakes much better than the Dissector, again quite a difference that is very obvious on steep loose terrain.

    I will give you that the Dissector is lighter and I guess if you are chasing a super light bike that has decent trail tyres then they will work well but to make big statements about it being better than a DHR/DHRII front and rear, imo it just isn't.

  2. #2202
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmac48 View Post
    I don't know what terrain you ride on but on the terrain the Dissector is designed for (dry and dusty) it does not get near the grip of a DHF or a DHRII in front or rear.

    There's quite a difference between the Dissector and the DHF on the front, the DHF being able to handle much more pressure thru the front and digs in for way longer than the Dissector.

    On the rear the DHRII brakes much better than the Dissector, again quite a difference that is very obvious on steep loose terrain.

    I will give you that the Dissector is lighter and I guess if you are chasing a super light bike that has decent trail tyres then they will work well but to make big statements about it being better than a DHR/DHRII front and rear, imo it just isn't.
    Agreed. I think a lot of trail riders on Minions just don't lay them over aggressively enough to really get the L-shaped side knobs pushing into terra firma to really understand that. So I can see how one might think the Dissector to "corner" better at trail speeds and less lean. FWIW it takes a lot more effort to lay over a 29'r Minion than it does a 27.5 or 26 because of that gyroscopic effect and I'm not so certain I won't swap mine out to a Dissector for trail use just to get a livelier/snappier feel.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 11-05-2019 at 11:47 PM.
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  3. #2203
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrkrft69 View Post
    I pulled the code off the back and emailed it to Fox. They told me it's a 170. Although when I compress and measure it only goes 155.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Just to put this one to bed... All Fox 36 forks have 10mm of unused stanchion showing after full travel so there are some incorrect responses in this thread. If you measure 155mm of travel pushing down then you definitely have a 160mm shaft in there whether or not the fork's 4 digit code says it started as a 170 fork. The missing 5mm comes from the bottom out rubber bumpers in the bottom of the fork legs. I'm 100% positive you have a 160mm shaft in that fork.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 11-09-2019 at 12:24 AM.
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  4. #2204
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Looking at perhaps picking up an SB130 T1 eventually. Does anyone know if the Fox 36 Fit4 damper is the newly updated 2020 Fit4 with the 8mm damper shaft? Or the previous generation still?
    The 2020 SB130's are shipping with 2019 Fit4 Fox 36 forks according to the 4 digit code. Interestingly they are coming with the 2020 owners manual and I didn't confirm the shaft size yet so I'm not 100% sure of the damper. FWIW the 2020 "improvement" is a reduction in damping (weaker shim stack and rebound tune; more oil flow due to larger ports with smaller shaft) to make the fork more friendly for what I would deem "less aggressive" riders. Fox is trying to make it more plush for low impact hits and probably distinguish it more as a trail fork as compared to their Grip2 damper for the more DH oriented riders. I'd personally take the 2019 Fit4 over the 2020 for my needs as thinner shafts are usually a BAD thing for dampers (flex and seal leaks become an issue).

    My 150 Fit4 36 setup (rider weight 185 lbs geared) is:
    100 psi air pressure, 1 token (removed one) and 7 clicks out rebound in open lever position. LSC to trail conditions and steepness. This gives a stronger more linear spring rate for taking hits at high speeds, small bump sensitivity be damned (yet is still quite acceptable). Plenty of mid-stroke support with the higher overall spring rate. Rather surprised at how capable this fork is out of the box. Yeti's suggested settings (fork and shock) are way too soft and fast IMHO.

    2020 SB130s do come with the new 2020 DPX2 rear shocks (per Fox code) which I'm guessing have refined damping because I'm not seeing any problems with this shock. I'm an aggro rider, and a shock snob, and I don't feel the need to go out and drop jingo on a new shock for a trail bike; YMMV.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 11-09-2019 at 12:06 AM.
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  5. #2205
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    So Yeti is now spec'ing their bikes with 50mm stems instead of 40mm and some on here have insinuated that is because Yeti wants you to weight the front wheel more (they told me that too on the phone). The REAL reason is that RaceFace is not making shorter than 50mm for Turbine 35 or Ride stems (what Yeti spec's) for 35mm bars!

    Out of curiosity, how many of you are using stems shorter than 50mm on your SB130's?

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 11-10-2019 at 11:55 PM.
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  6. #2206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    So Yeti is now spec'ing their bikes with 50mm stems instead of 40mm and some on here have insinuated that is because Yeti wants you to weight the front wheel more (they told me that too on the phone). The REAL reason is that RaceFace is not making shorter than 50mm for Turbine 35 or Ride stems (what Yeti spec's) for 35mm bars!

    Out of curiosity, how many of you are using stems shorter than 50mm on your SB130's?

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    I swapped mine for a 40mm stem. I am 5'8" and a medium 130.

  7. #2207
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    Does the 36 on the SB130 use a 100mm or 110mm front axle?

  8. #2208
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    Hi.

    Rockguarzd manufactures from this month the carbon protector for SB130 frames in size M and L

    https://www.rockguardz.com/yeti-sb130-sb150-sb165.html

    Regards.

  9. #2209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Out of curiosity, how many of you are using stems shorter than 50mm on your SB130's?...
    5.4, Size S, 45mm/0°, 760mm

  10. #2210
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethde View Post
    Does the 36 on the SB130 use a 100mm or 110mm front axle?
    110 (Boost)

    Cheers,

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  11. #2211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    110 (Boost)

    Cheers,

    G
    Thanks! Just ordered a Kabolt for it.

  12. #2212
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    Im on a 35mm. S size.

  13. #2213
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    40mm stem M size

  14. #2214
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    I ride a 40mm RF Turbine R with a 35mm bar (also RF)...hmmm


    Was worried about this becoming too snappy, but it definitely isn´t. Most lively 29er on the planet. Feels HUUUUGE when stored in the Basement, but incredibly nimble and agile on the Trail...

  15. #2215
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    anybody put in a 150mm fox transfer dropper into S size frame?

    just wondering about the clearance down in the seat tube.

  16. #2216
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    Quote Originally Posted by awis View Post
    anybody put in a 150mm fox transfer dropper into S size frame?

    just wondering about the clearance down in the seat tube.
    I have a 175mm in my medium, so I imagine a 150mm would fit in a small just fine but can't confirm.

  17. #2217
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethde View Post
    I have a 175mm in my medium, so I imagine a 150mm would fit in a small just fine but can't confirm.
    Ditto... actually my dealer worked with Yeti to get me the 175 instead of the 150 on my Med and SO glad I did! Very impressed with the Fox Transfer post and the new RaceFace remote lever they are now coming with stock. Highly recommended.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  18. #2218
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    i was looking to have dropper collar very close to the seatpost clamp. there is about an inch thus i guess 150mm drop might work. altho yeti specced it in 125mm probably cutting it real close.

    perhaps i need to find some drawings of fox transfer and work my way from there.

  19. #2219
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    zweigelt


    i am also 5.4 how is the size for you in s

  20. #2220
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickekarlsson View Post
    zweigelt


    i am also 5.4 how is the size for you in s
    Bikeyoke Revive 160 mm

    Seat High 670mm....
    Minimum Seat High around 645-650mm....

    Hope it helps....

  21. #2221
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    Quote Originally Posted by zweigelt View Post
    Bikeyoke Revive 160 mm

    Seat High 670mm....
    Minimum Seat High around 645-650mm....

    Hope it helps....
    ok thanks

  22. #2222
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    Had a warranty issue that was handled very quickly, so I now have a new 2020 frame. Waiting on some eewings tie died cranks to finish this iteration. Also, I sent the float x2 to fluid focus and had it tuned, it is about perfect now. I am also running 2.6 forekasters on it for trail riding during the wet season(KY) and they have not rubbed at all. I took calipers to my old rear triangle (early 2019 frame) and the new rear triangle was ~5mm wider internal.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  23. #2223
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  24. #2224
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    I just got my first Yeti. This is a great read. thanks,

  25. #2225
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    You who drive sb130. How are they in size? Sucking for one but unsure of what size I should have. Is 165cm long and has an ibis mojo 3 now in size small and may find it a little short at times.

  26. #2226
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickekarlsson View Post
    You who drive sb130. How are they in size? Sucking for one but unsure of what size I should have. Is 165cm long and has an ibis mojo 3 now in size small and may find it a little short at times.
    Go Medium!

  27. #2227
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Go Medium!
    for a 5’5” rider I’d recommend Small not Medium

  28. #2228
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    for a 5’5” rider I’d recommend Small not Medium
    I have a friend who is 5'6" (167.6cm) who is very happy on a small SB130. I would also recommend a small. However, reach is a personal preference.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Sent from the singletrack...

  29. #2229
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    I am 169cm on small sb130. Tried a medium and i felt it was hard on climbing as i think i was not seated in the center. the reach on small is pretty long too.

  30. #2230
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    ok thanks sounds like small is what i should have

  31. #2231
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    Quote Originally Posted by mickekarlsson View Post
    You who drive sb130. How are they in size? Sucking for one but unsure of what size I should have. Is 165cm long and has an ibis mojo 3 now in size small and may find it a little short at times.
    my wife is 5' 5" & Small SB130 great for her

  32. #2232
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    165cm Size S... perfect!

  33. #2233
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    Anyone come across a good deal on an sb130 large this weekend? I've tried, but not found anything.

  34. #2234
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    Arin from ProBikeSupply in Newport Beach just posted his very nice SB130. It's a "shop bike" so it's being sold as a warranty. Ver nice build.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2682989/

  35. #2235
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    Quote Originally Posted by K2-man View Post
    Hi All,

    I am doubting between the Yeti SB130 and Occam as my new ride to replace my current Orbea Rallon.

    The only real downside for the yeti is the PF BB, or should I not worry about this?

    Then Two questions for which I was looking for an answer in this thread:
    - I am 1.70 and was aiming to pick a medium (seattube on S would be very short) and putting a 35 mm stem on it. Still the reach increases ~2.5 cm compared to my current bike. Does the length gets countered by the much steeper seattube, what are the general experiences with the progressive geometry?
    - second question, I want to put a RS Lyrik or Pike on the frame. But see this guy is offered in 37 ,44 or 46 mm offset where Yeti recommens 44. Would it be pushing the boundaries too much when putting a 37 offset fork?
    Little update here,
    I visited a Yeti dealer and tested the geo of small and medium sized Yeti on a static test setup and went for a Medium after some debate.

    In the mean while had a few rides on it and the size is perfect for me. Although the TT is longer on paper it does not feel longer due to steep seat angle.

    Still waiting for the dropper post to arrive.

    Compared to my Rallon (previous bike), pretty amazed so far on how it rides


  36. #2236
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    The PF Bb isnt and shouldnt be an issue anymore. Lots of great options out there. Im using BB Infinite and its been perfect.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  37. #2237
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    The PF Bb isnt and shouldnt be an issue anymore. Lots of great options out there. Im using BB Infinite and its been perfect.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    pf bb isn’t a problem by itself, pf92 for dub or 30mm is really the problem since you can’t really build a reliable bearing like you do for 24mm or bsa bb for dub/30mm

  38. #2238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    So Yeti is now spec'ing their bikes with 50mm stems instead of 40mm and some on here have insinuated that is because Yeti wants you to weight the front wheel more (they told me that too on the phone). The REAL reason is that RaceFace is not making shorter than 50mm for Turbine 35 or Ride stems (what Yeti spec's) for 35mm bars!

    Out of curiosity, how many of you are using stems shorter than 50mm on your SB130's?

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    I ran a 50mm stem on my 2019 150 and I've done the same on my 2020 130. I am 6'1 and kind of in between sizes.. and I prefer the large so I think the extra 10mm kind of puts me at a great spot.

  39. #2239
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    2020 SB130s do come with the new 2020 DPX2 rear shocks (per Fox code) which I'm guessing have refined damping because I'm not seeing any problems with this shock. I'm an aggro rider, and a shock snob, and I don't feel the need to go out and drop jingo on a new shock for a trail bike; YMMV.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Are you currently running any volume spacers? I am using the .06 now, might check out the .08.. what kind of rebound settings are you running as well?

    I also see you've been on MTBR for a long ass time as well.. did you used to frequent the SC forums? I remember your name from somewhere!

  40. #2240
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross86 View Post
    Are you currently running any volume spacers? I am using the .06 now, might check out the .08.. what kind of rebound settings are you running as well?

    I also see you've been on MTBR for a long ass time as well.. did you used to frequent the SC forums? I remember your name from somewhere!
    Hey Ross,

    Yeah, long-time SC guy but the SB130 just climbs better and that's my weakness so... never say never I guess!

    Running no volume spacers but using too much travel on standard trail rides so... I cut out the stroke spacer turning it into a "Lunch Ride" 136mm travel bike but intend to keep the sag at 16mm and see how she does. I typically run high pressures for better handling of jumps and drops anyway. My educated "guess" is I will end up with one standard spacer yet but we'll see. One oddity I did notice was I'm at 230 psi on the shock but Yeti's recommendation was 205psi on their online calculator... until yesterday when it's now 229! I'm "guessing" they updated their data to maybe reflect what is required of the 2020 shocks? Must be a difference as I was rather surprised at how low their initial settings were. My rebound is 6 clicks out at that pressure and my LSC is 7 clicks out for the 2020 version DPX2.

    Cheers,

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  41. #2241
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    The .86 spacer on the 210x52.5 DPX2 is fine, but if you have it set at 55mm stroke it will make the compression ratio to high for the shock; .6 is as high as the 210x55 will play well with. Just wanted to give you a heads up!

    Here's the link to Fox's chart:
    https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=568

  42. #2242
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    Quote Originally Posted by YetiBikes85 View Post
    The .86 spacer on the 210x52.5 DPX2 is fine, but if you have it set at 55mm stroke it will make the compression ratio to high for the shock; .6 is as high as the 210x55 will play well with. Just wanted to give you a heads up!

    Here's the link to Fox's chart:
    https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=568
    I see that -- the 55mm stroke is when you remove the clip in the shock and go LR I assume?

  43. #2243
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross86 View Post
    I see that -- the 55mm stroke is when you remove the clip in the shock and go LR I assume?
    Yes.
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build
    My Youtube channel Trail Bike Mike

  44. #2244
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    What are you all doing about cable rattle??? I can't believe a bike that cost this much doesn't have proper grommets for internal cable routing... Mine is so loud I thought the shock had come undone! It's not the dropper post cable (usual culprit) but rather seems to be coming from the exposed brake and shifter cables between front and rear triangles. Basically just slapping up and down on the rear swingarm as it moves rapidly on rough terrain.

    Thanks,

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  45. #2245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    What are you all doing about cable rattle??? I can't believe a bike that cost this much doesn't have proper grommets for internal cable routing... Mine is so loud I thought the shock had come undone! It's not the dropper post cable (usual culprit) but rather seems to be coming from the exposed brake and shifter cables between front and rear triangles. Basically just slapping up and down on the rear swingarm as it moves rapidly on rough terrain.

    Thanks,

    G
    I have not noticed/heard any cable rattle. With that said, I will check with my friend who has found an appropriate size split grommets that he is using. He picked them up at a hardware store.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Sent from the singletrack...

  46. #2246
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    Hey anyone have any comparisons to a pivot switchblade (current ride)? I’m on the fence on pulling the trigger and no demos near me in sw va. Thanks

  47. #2247
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    Have folks noticed more rear tire clearance on the 2020 SB130?

    Trying to decide between Ripmo and SB130. Really want a SB130, but at 210lbs (fit) worried about flex/clearance.

  48. #2248
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    Quote Originally Posted by cakemonster View Post
    Have folks noticed more rear tire clearance on the 2020 SB130?

    Trying to decide between Ripmo and SB130. Really want a SB130, but at 210lbs (fit) worried about flex/clearance.
    The 2020 frame I have will fit a 2.6 forekaster in the rear, with less rubbing than the 2019 frame with a 2.4 dhr2, I measured about 4-5mm more space at the widest point. I also weigh more than you, but run i9 32h 310c wheels that are pretty stiff.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  49. #2249
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    I don’t have a 2019 on hand but based on pictures I’ve seen and my own 2020 130, my true to size WTB Judge 2.4 has plenty of clearance to spare. I can probably fit a true 2.5 knob to knob with no issues.

    My 2020 130 with a 2.4 rear has noticeably more clearance than my 2019 100 with a 2.3 rear.

    I like Yeti as a company but I don’t fully believe their statement that no changes have been made in the rear triangle. But until any one of us can measure both 2019 and 2020 130s and compare, it’s all just speculation.

    Or that the manufacturing between rear triangles widely varies. Which is much much worse
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  50. #2250
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    But until any one of us can measure both 2019 and 2020 130s and compare, it’s all just speculation.
    This shouldn't be hard -- someone w/ a 2019 get some measurements and post them up!

  51. #2251
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    cable rattle

    On my SB140, which i think has identical cable routing to the SB130 i used small plastic tubes with 4mm inner diameter and 1mm wall thickness for the shifting and dropper post cables. I cut approximately 0,5-1cm short pieces and slided them with 5-7 cm space between them over the cables. For the part where the dropper post cable runs free inside the frame i used a thin foam tube.

    No rattle at all, but i built it that way right from the start.



    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    What are you all doing about cable rattle??? I can't believe a bike that cost this much doesn't have proper grommets for internal cable routing... Mine is so loud I thought the shock had come undone! It's not the dropper post cable (usual culprit) but rather seems to be coming from the exposed brake and shifter cables between front and rear triangles. Basically just slapping up and down on the rear swingarm as it moves rapidly on rough terrain.

    Thanks,

    G
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_5125.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_5124.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_5123.jpg  


  52. #2252
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekmcelwee View Post
    The 2020 frame I have will fit a 2.6 forekaster in the rear, with less rubbing than the 2019 frame with a 2.4 dhr2, I measured about 4-5mm more space at the widest point.
    Could you post pictures with the two triangles/measurements? Hearing so many things on this. Hoping they have it sorted for 2020.

    I get not needing to clear 2.6 tires, but 2.4 WT tires would be pretty standard on a trail bike. If those fit without rub. All good.

    You also said less rub. Do the 2.6 still rub, just less?

  53. #2253
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by ross86 View Post
    This shouldn't be hard -- someone w/ a 2019 get some measurements and post them up!
    I’ve got a 2019 frame! I'm more than happy to measure anything you want to help you guys, but you need to tell me exactly what and from where to where (so it can be replicated/compared).

    FYI: I’ve got a 2.5 DHF EXO WT on a 30mm ID rim and it doesn’t rub.

  54. #2254
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    I’ve got a 2019 frame! I'm more than happy to measure anything you want to help you guys, but you need to tell me exactly what and from where to where (so it can be replicated/compared).

    FYI: I’ve got a 2.5 DHF EXO WT on a 30mm ID rim and it doesn’t rub.

    I am not sure where they want the measurements either.. maybe between the chainstays where the rear wheel could rub? If someone can chime in, I'll get measurements as well off my 2020.

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    Quote Originally Posted by derekmcelwee View Post
    Had a warranty issue that was handled very quickly, so I now have a new 2020 frame. Waiting on some eewings tie died cranks to finish this iteration. Also, I sent the float x2 to fluid focus and had it tuned, it is about perfect now. I am also running 2.6 forekasters on it for trail riding during the wet season(KY) and they have not rubbed at all. I took calipers to my old rear triangle (early 2019 frame) and the new rear triangle was ~5mm wider internal.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

    I just finished installing Front and Rear Forekaster 29x2.6 on my NEXTIE 34mm (internal) wheels on 2020 SB130 and it does NOT fit in the rear. I was barely able to get the rear wheel in place to get the axle thru. But the rear Forekaster rubs the frame even when the bike is just upside down.
    How wide are your rims?

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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    I just finished installing Front and Rear Forekaster 29x2.6 on my NEXTIE 34mm (internal) wheels on 2020 SB130 and it does NOT fit in the rear. I was barely able to get the rear wheel in place to get the axle thru. But the rear Forekaster rubs the frame even when the bike is just upside down.
    How wide are your rims?
    They are i9 310c's 30mm internal, fit in there fine and minimal rub on the frame protection tape, only when mud sticks to the tire. I'll take pics tomorrow. Here is one with it mounted tho.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cakemonster View Post
    Could you post pictures with the two triangles/measurements? Hearing so many things on this. Hoping they have it sorted for 2020.

    I get not needing to clear 2.6 tires, but 2.4 WT tires would be pretty standard on a trail bike. If those fit without rub. All good.

    You also said less rub. Do the 2.6 still rub, just less?
    I already tossed the old frame after I cut it. It was a sad day.

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    Here are pics of the 2.6 on a 30mm rim mounted with space. Make sure you frame protection is on point there and check for rub on a regular basis. Mine looks fine, I just redid the frame protection because I got a better film.

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    Btw, I am also offsetting my dish about 3mm away from the drive side to center it up in the rear triangle. Talked to yeti Corp and they advised doing this.

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    And my crankset finally came in. The build is complete.

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    Quote Originally Posted by derekmcelwee View Post
    Btw, I am also offsetting my dish about 3mm away from the drive side to center it up in the rear triangle. Talked to yeti Corp and they advised doing this.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    Would you mind to share/explain how did you offset the dish by 3mm ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by derekmcelwee View Post
    And my crankset finally came in. The build is complete.

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    Sick Build !

    Curious to hear from SB130 owners how's the Push ElevenSix vs. Fox DPX2.
    I just see more and more Push Eleven Six shocks on Pinkbike that people are removing from their SB130 and going back to DPX2. Same goes for Fox X2.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    Sick Build !

    Curious to hear from SB130 owners how's the Push ElevenSix vs. Fox DPX2.
    I just see more and more Push Eleven Six shocks on Pinkbike that people are removing from their SB130 and going back to DPX2. Same goes for Fox X2.
    I haven't ridden it with the 11.6 yet. I have all three and plan on doing some comparisons, just kinda wet in KY right now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    Would you mind to share/explain how did you offset the dish by 3mm ?
    Put it on a wheel stand and adjusted the wheel over 3mm. Away from the cassette, the frame is tighter on the drive side than the non drive side.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    Sick Build !

    Curious to hear from SB130 owners how's the Push ElevenSix vs. Fox DPX2.
    I just see more and more Push Eleven Six shocks on Pinkbike that people are removing from their SB130 and going back to DPX2. Same goes for Fox X2.
    Could it be that people are buying fancier shocks because they think they have a problem they actually don't have? Instead of learning to ride the bike and actually identifying what needs improvement from their perspective, people just assume that the other shocks are better because it's expensive, has more adjustments, and/or it's coil. Bling factor plays a pretty big role too.

    I've identified some minor annoyances with my SB130's stock suspension, but that's only because there was waaay too much grease in the air shaft and too much float fluid in the negative chamber of the shock. Rode a little rough in extended rides and downhills. I also 'LRed' it, but I'm keeping the 150mm fork. Rides much better and now I don't really see a reason to upgrade for the time being. I'm a set it and forget it kind of person anyway.

    Yea the factory could do a better job to make sure the insides of the suspension have the proper amount of lubrication. But it is what it is. The DPX2 is a great shock. Open it up, clean it, put 2 drops of float fluid in the positive chamber and a drop in the negative and you're all set. That's enough lubrication and you don't need the entire 5ml packet of float fluid in there. Clean the air shaft on in your front fork too. Every Fox fork I've had has excessive grease because the factory assemblers just dunk it in a bucket of grease.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

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    It could also be that people are curious, want to try different shocks, and ask questions. It is all arbitrary and opinion based. And building out a bike exactly how one prefers it is included in that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by derekmcelwee View Post
    And my crankset finally came in. The build is complete.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    Sick build!!! Love the cranks, even after axs and enve wheels I still haven’t convinced myself to buy a 1k cranks but it sure looks amazing!

    interesting tire choice, I’d expect a much more aggressive combo given the LR and Coil!

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    I don't say this to be a nob, but if you're unsure how to dish a wheel, it's probably a good thing to take to a lbs with a competent tech (the lbs employees I'd let touch my spokes are few and far between).

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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    Sick build!!! Love the cranks, even after axs and enve wheels I still haven’t convinced myself to buy a 1k cranks but it sure looks amazing!

    interesting tire choice, I’d expect a much more aggressive combo given the LR and Coil!
    The forecasters are great trail tires for central ky in the wet season. I also wanted to see if 2.6s would work, as i run that on the front of my sb100 and had a couple already. I have another wheelset with a dissector and assegai for when it gets a bit more rowdy. It took awhile to talk myself into the cranks, I feel ya.

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    Quote Originally Posted by derekmcelwee View Post
    The forecasters are great trail tires for central ky in the wet season. I also wanted to see if 2.6s would work, as i run that on the front of my sb100 and had a couple already.
    To speak more to the versatility of that tire, in the desert southwest I got a couple seasons out of a 2.35 FK and it worked remarkably well - really supply casing, and knobs where you actually need them in wet/muddy/snowy situations, with actually good rolling.

    My personal preference on tires in this range is DHR-II out front with e.13 SemiSlick out back - again, desert southwest, and I ride like a big goon who needs casing thickness more than actual traction anyway.

  71. #2271
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Could it be that people are buying fancier shocks because they think they have a problem they actually don't have? Instead of learning to ride the bike and actually identifying what needs improvement from their perspective, people just assume that the other shocks are better because it's expensive, has more adjustments, and/or it's coil. Bling factor plays a pretty big role too..
    You unquestionably nailed it on the bling factor - the SB130 is such a good and huge bandwidth bike that I think a lot of guys who buy them realize that with a big of suspension dialing in that it can take them all the way to park bike, but still be super-rad and totally fun on less exciting trails. If that solution (on an already high end bike) also looks absolutely flash, then it's a total win.

    To be honest, as good as a 'one bike solution' as it is, for somebody that has space for two bikes, a LR'ed setup (150/136mm travel) and doing the 2+2=4 strategy (two bikes, two wheelsets, with either fast and light wheels/tires or grippy/durable) and you have a comprehensively world-beating setup... so why not splash some cash on bling suspension?

    That said, on the suspension front my druthers would be having Avalanche rework the latest Marzocchi budget coil sprung damper, plop a new progressive spring on it, and rock a Vorsprung kit on a fork that's been rebuilt and call it a day.

  72. #2272
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    Quote Originally Posted by tehllama View Post
    You unquestionably nailed it on the bling factor - the SB130 is such a good and huge bandwidth bike that I think a lot of guys who buy them realize that with a big of suspension dialing in that it can take them all the way to park bike, but still be super-rad and totally fun on less exciting trails. If that solution (on an already high end bike) also looks absolutely flash, then it's a total win.

    To be honest, as good as a 'one bike solution' as it is, for somebody that has space for two bikes, a LR'ed setup (150/136mm travel) and doing the 2+2=4 strategy (two bikes, two wheelsets, with either fast and light wheels/tires or grippy/durable) and you have a comprehensively world-beating setup... so why not splash some cash on bling suspension?

    That said, on the suspension front my druthers would be having Avalanche rework the latest Marzocchi budget coil sprung damper, plop a new progressive spring on it, and rock a Vorsprung kit on a fork that's been rebuilt and call it a day.
    I had my first 'real' ride(24 miles in NWA) with my LRed shock and oh my goodness, what a hugely noticeable improvement. I didn't notice the extra travel. BUT I can run more sag(32-33%) with a lot less air pressure(20 psi less) and throw in a volume spacer(pink one for now). And still not have a harsh bottom outs. Pedaling efficiency isn't really affected but there is slightly more pedal bob. The SB130 is an efficient pedaling machine already so I'm not crying about it. So now I have a sensitive rear while still maintaining mid and end stroke support. The holy grail. I haven't taken it through some super gnarly chunk yet, but I'm positive that it'll perform better than a non-LRed setup.

    My biggest complaint about the SB130 was that the rear felt a bit harsh. But LR-ing it changed it so much for the better. Literally everyone who has an SB130 should remove the travel spacer in their shock. The extra travel doesn't make a noticeable difference. But the rear shock is able to work a lot better, smoother, and is more tunable.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tehllama View Post
    To speak more to the versatility of that tire, in the desert southwest I got a couple seasons out of a 2.35 FK and it worked remarkably well - really supply casing, and knobs where you actually need them in wet/muddy/snowy situations, with actually good rolling.

    My personal preference on tires in this range is DHR-II out front with e.13 SemiSlick out back - again, desert southwest, and I ride like a big goon who needs casing thickness more than actual traction anyway.
    And those 2.35 are 760g. Can't really name another 3 season tire that does what this tire does while being so light. It's a great xc trail tire that can handle some chunk. 2.6 is ~855g, offered in 3c and 2c. Just a great tire.

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    Double post.

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    Hi guys. I was checking the Yeti suspension calculator and it seems that the suggested rebound settings are quick quick. What is your setup?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Hi guys. I was checking the Yeti suspension calculator and it seems that the suggested rebound settings are quick quick. What is your setup?
    It depends on where you are riding. You want them as quick as you can handle, and there is not 1 set and forget method. Set the recommended amount +5 clicks, then ride a section of trail you are familiar with. Then adjust it 10 clicks the opposite way and ride that section again. Then once you have an idea what was working better for you micro adjust. If your sag is correct, it will be *mostly* ridable throughout the whole range, depending on what and how you are riding. High speed=fast impacts, low speed=undulating terrain slower impacts.

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  77. #2277
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Hi guys. I was checking the Yeti suspension calculator and it seems that the suggested rebound settings are quick quick. What is your setup?
    Adjust it to suit your riding style and terrain. That calculator is just a baseline. I find them too firm for me. As a matter of fact, I found any settings Fox has suggested a bit too firm. I personally like to use 85-90% of my suspension on normal rides, and up to 100% when I'm sending it or going flat out or racing.

    Some people will tell you that you should be using 100% of travel in a ride. I don't buy that since my trails are varied and wildly different. 100% at a radom trail means you're smashing your rear shock and fork to oblivion when you get to a gnarlier trail. Gotta find that happy medium. That's why I like to keep a 'safety' margin of 10-15% travel.

    But that's just me. Some people always use 100% travel no matter what.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  78. #2278
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Hi guys. I was checking the Yeti suspension calculator and it seems that the suggested rebound settings are quick quick. What is your setup?
    Yeti's recommendation was waaaaay too fast for me. I'm at 6 clicks out for both shock and fork and 20-25psi higher in air pressure for both as well (so I needed slower rebound to account for the higher spring rate).

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  79. #2279
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    What is your weight and psi?

  80. #2280
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    I have a large Lunch Ride, and at 205 lbs Yeti recommended 100 PSI in the fork with 8 clicks of LSC and 9 clicks of LSR. For the rear the recco was 237 psi, 6 clicks of compression and 9 clicks of rebound.

    I have settled at 80 psi for the fork (it does have a Luftkappe installed) with HSR, LSR and LSC at 5 clicks, and HSC at 12 clicks. For the rear I have 235 psi (.4 spacer), and rebound and compression both at 7 clicks.

    I did refine this with a Shockwiz, but with only small drops in pressures and maybe a click of adjustment here and there, no major changes.

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    Thank you very much. Are the clicks from fully closed or open?

  82. #2282
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Thank you very much. Are the clicks from fully closed or open?
    From fully closed, full CW rotation.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DNW View Post
    From fully closed, full CW rotation.
    So even though you have dropped in psi you have also made your rebound slower than Yeti's recommendation.

  84. #2284
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    So even though you have dropped in psi you have also made your rebound slower than Yeti's recommendation.
    Yes, I don't think I ever had the rebound set that fast. I looked at Yeti's recommended settings, also looked at Fox's recommendations, and then adjusted by feel, and finally (after a year on the bike) spent week with a Shockwiz to see what that told me.

    https://www.ridefox.com/dl/bike/605-...white-revA.pdf

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    Merry Christmas to you all....

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-2440533-rtcuymeg22nq-winterwanderweg_003-large.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    So even though you have dropped in psi you have also made your rebound slower than Yeti's recommendation.
    Rebound is one of the things I generally adjust to suit the trail I'm riding. I leave sag and compression alone once I set it. But rebound can change if I feel that it needs to change. Of course, I have a 'base' rebound setting. But I'll go a few clicks up and down from that base setting.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  87. #2287
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Rebound is one of the things I generally adjust to suit the trail I'm riding. I leave sag and compression alone once I set it. But rebound can change if I feel that it needs to change. Of course, I have a 'base' rebound setting. But I'll go a few clicks up and down from that base setting.
    I would "hope" that that is a given and understood by everyone with any knowledge of suspension tuning.

    gpgalanis... my weight is 190 lbs RTR and my psi is 100 for fork (150mm Fox36 Fit4; 1 of 2 tokens removed for stiffer/straighter spring rate) and 230 for rear shock (DPX2 Lunch Ride stroke but still set at 16mm sag as it just works better that way; no volume spacers - again, stiffer/straighter spring rate). The low speed compression suggested settings from Yeti (very little) seem spot on (for both) but their rebound and air spring suggestions were ridiculous unless you just aren't an aggressive rider. Big mistake most make is trying to achieve "suppleness" at low speeds by using too little air pressure and more tokens. Just the worst possible thing you can do with a bike like this made to go FAST IMHO but YMMV.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Last edited by Gman086; 12-26-2019 at 10:37 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    Sick Build !

    Curious to hear from SB130 owners how's the Push ElevenSix vs. Fox DPX2.
    I just see more and more Push Eleven Six shocks on Pinkbike that people are removing from their SB130 and going back to DPX2. Same goes for Fox X2.
    So I've put about 45 miles on it this week.

    Mostly chunky singletrack, a couple laps on a dh flow trail, and some gravel fire roads. With the tune I have from push, climb and down hill, it climbs fine with the right amount of give so it doesn't have suspensioning (bobbing) happen on the higher cadence fire road climbs. I can ride most single track around here in the climb mode and switch it to the dh setting for, uh, down hill.

    Compared to the dpx2 it has less chatter, feels like it sits a little lower in its travel and the only adjustment I had to make from the factory tune that push sets up is backing off the rebound a bit on the dh flow trail. Biggest difference I can tell is the rear end has less chatter through off camber rooty or rocky turns with speed.

    I feel like on the jumps and most trail riding it isn't a huge difference from the dpx2 or the x2. But those higher speed chunky sections are different. It doesn't get stuck or have weird impacts that an air shock will make you lurch on a bit. I hope that explains how it feels, it is kinda hard to put it words.

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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    ...

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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build


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    My new new...
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-80fe7723-d470-42f0-8f55-031e10eef4d4.jpg

    My new custom build and...my first Yeti

    SB130 Turq
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    Happy New Year to all SB130 Shredders !!!

    Let’s hope that next year we all shred 2,020 time more and harder than the year before !!!

  94. #2294
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    Hey SB130 Owners!

    I am in the market for an SB130, I've demo'd too many bikes to count (SC Hightower, Ibis Ripley, Ibis Ripmo, SB140, etc etc) pretty much have my mind made up that I'm buying the SB130. One question I have though, is I read SO much good about this bike, aside from the known pivot/rear triangle issues from the first generation of the frame, what are your nitpicks about the SB130? Every bike makes some kind of compromises, what do you wish was just slightly better/different about the SB130? Thanks!

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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by jerms View Post
    what do you wish was just slightly better/different about the SB130? Thanks!
    Except for the price, nothing to be honest! 9 months down the line and still mega happy with it in every conditions ... it’s just THE bike for me!

    * Bought only the frame and built the bike with various components (coil front and rear)
    Last edited by digev; 01-03-2020 at 10:48 PM.

  96. #2296
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by jerms View Post
    I am in the market for an SB130, I've demo'd too many bikes to count (SC Hightower, Ibis Ripley, Ibis Ripmo, SB140, etc etc) pretty much have my mind made up that I'm buying the SB130. One question I have though, is I read SO much good about this bike, aside from the known pivot/rear triangle issues from the first generation of the frame, what are your nitpicks about the SB130? Every bike makes some kind of compromises, what do you wish was just slightly better/different about the SB130? Thanks!
    I wish the SB130 would come with the 55mm stroked shock instead of the 52.5. The 'regular' SB130 can keep the 150mm fork, while the LR version can get the LR specific upgrades. There's really no reason to not LR the shock on a regular stock SB130.

    Regular SB130 fork should also come with the GRIP2 damper. No complaints about the FIT4 because it's a great damper. But fine tuning certain aspects of the fork would have been nice.

    From a maintenance standpoint, I would have liked it if the rear zerk nipple were more accessible without almost disassembling the rear end. Also, the bearing removal and replacement in the SI appears to be tricky. Though I haven't done it yet but eventually will.

    Rear tire should be Double Down and front should be EXO+. With how fast this bike is capable of going, it's only a matter of time until you cut right through the thin regular-EXO casings.

    The SB130 is a thoroughly modern and progressive bike with its geometry. Yeti set the standard with the long reach and steep seat angles and other brands are playing catch up. Geo trends suggests that the SB130 is future-proofed for at least another couple of years without being considered 'outdated'. I don't have any major complaints. It's a great bike overall. It's aesthetically pleasing, rides just as good as it looks(after taking time to tune the suspension), and seems to be quite robust. Lifetime warranty is a huge plus.

    Also, relatively speaking, the T1 build offers the best value compared to non-direct sales brands. 6.5k is a lot to spend on a bike. But compared to SC or Trek where you can’t even get Factory level suspension unless you push above 7.5k for Trek and 10k for SC. So what was once considered the ‘most expensive’ brand now offers the best valued builds(of non-direct sales).
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  97. #2297
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    Rockshox Super Deluxe MegNeg on sb130?


    People here have Cane Creek DB Coil IL and Fox X2, but I haven't read anyone talking about the Rockshox Super Deluxe MegNeg and I think it could be a good shock for the sb130.

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blo...ng-term-review


    ....We tried the MegNeg on SB130 & SB150 bikes, and it really seemed to shine on those. “Helping” the bike into its travel and requiring less force to do so. Those bikes have such a great pedaling platform but sometimes aren’t the best in repetitive big hits or chatter. The MegNeg was able to retain the bikes pedaling performance while taking the hardness out of the braking bumps. Riders on those bikes ranged from 170lbs to 195lbs on the SB150 and our test rider wasn't super stoked when we asked to get the shock on another bike for the test. It really is that good!.......


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv9fIQL1JFc&t=0s

  98. #2298
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Also, relatively speaking, the T1 build offers the best value compared to non-direct sales brands. 6.5k is a lot to spend on a bike. But compared to SC or Trek where you can’t even get Factory level suspension unless you push above 7.5k for Trek and 10k for SC. So what was once considered the ‘most expensive’ brand now offers the best valued builds(of non-direct sales).
    I totally agree about the T1 build. I find SRAM components just a bit more fragile and touchy than Shimano and there are a lot of magazines and online sites that are giving glowing reviews of the new 12 speed XT drivetrain, a lot of them saying that it is just as good/better than X01. The only ding on XT is it heavier than SRAM, but overall really not much. And I could put the saved $500 toward some carbon rims and save some serious weight!

  99. #2299
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by jerms View Post
    I am in the market for an SB130, I've demo'd too many bikes to count (SC Hightower, Ibis Ripley, Ibis Ripmo, SB140, etc etc) pretty much have my mind made up that I'm buying the SB130. One question I have though, is I read SO much good about this bike, aside from the known pivot/rear triangle issues from the first generation of the frame, what are your nitpicks about the SB130? Every bike makes some kind of compromises, what do you wish was just slightly better/different about the SB130? Thanks!
    I was recently in the same position. After demoing too many bikes, I landed on the T1 SB130. Demoing the Yeti, my main nitpicks were the same Almazing mentioned above (Fit4 and standard shock stroke) so I researched several shops and found one that would let me swap out like components at no additional charge. I was able to get a 150 Pike Ultimate and the 55mm DPX2 along with other minor tweaks. I haven’t had time for proper ride on this setup - hopefully it works out as planned. Best of luck!


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    Last edited by TWMTB; 01-04-2020 at 07:54 AM.

  100. #2300
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerms View Post
    I totally agree about the T1 build. I find SRAM components just a bit more fragile and touchy than Shimano and there are a lot of magazines and online sites that are giving glowing reviews of the new 12 speed XT drivetrain, a lot of them saying that it is just as good/better than X01. The only ding on XT is it heavier than SRAM, but overall really not much. And I could put the saved $500 toward some carbon rims and save some serious weight!
    The B tension on Shimano's derailleur is less finicky than the Eagle. Aside from the shifting under load and the double upshifts, the shift quality does feel the same as X01. The only downside I can see is that it takes more force on the Shimano 12 speed shifter/derailleur to actuate.

    For the T1 build, I'd be glad to not get the Guide brakes.

  101. #2301
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerms View Post
    One question I have though, is I read SO much good about this bike, aside from the known pivot/rear triangle issues from the first generation of the frame, what are your nitpicks about the SB130? Every bike makes some kind of compromises, what do you wish was just slightly better/different about the SB130? Thanks!
    I have a year and about 900 miles on mine so far. Super happy with the bike, no complaints, but here are my tweaks in the order I prioritized them. I started with the GX "budget" build.

    replace 175mm cranks with 170mm, Lunch ride mods, Luftkappe, Grip2 damper, brakes (replace Guide R with Magura MT7s, 203 front rotor) and finally new wheelset.

    really just tweaks, nerding out, and dialing things to my preferences as I got used to the bike.

    The big things that pushed me to the SB130 were the geometry, the warranty, and it seemed somewhat "future-proof" for a little while.

  102. #2302
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    DNW, why did you change to 170mm cranks? I see Yeti’s build kits are offered with 170mm. Can the bike be ridden properly with 175mm? I’m interested in the bike, but not so sure about 170mm cranks.

  103. #2303
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockinrod42 View Post
    DNW, why did you change to 170mm cranks? I see Yeti’s build kits are offered with 170mm. Can the bike be ridden properly with 175mm? I’m interested in the bike, but not so sure about 170mm cranks.
    I prefer 175mm cranks overall, but the BB on the 130 is super low. Even more so if you LR the rear shock and run more sag(32-33%) but keep the 150mm fork like how I have mine set up. Even with the stock non-LR shock at 30% sag, I was regularly getting pedal strikes.

    I can see 175mm cranks being viable without a lot of pedal strikes if you run less sag with an air shock, which I personally do not recommended. Or run a coil shock which has naturally less sag than air if you have the proper spring rate for your weight. Coil shocks don't follow the ~30% sag rule like most air shocks do, so they run a higher ride height. And even more so if you add extra spring preload, which I also do not recommend.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  104. #2304
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockinrod42 View Post
    DNW, why did you change to 170mm cranks? I see Yeti’s build kits are offered with 170mm. Can the bike be ridden properly with 175mm? I’m interested in the bike, but not so sure about 170mm cranks.
    I was coming off a much older bike with a higher bottom bracket and with the low bottom bracket on the SB130 was getting a lot of pedal strikes. I was a little concerned at first because I am tall with long legs and I thought the shorter cranks would be an issue for me but I have never noticed any issues and it really didn't fell any different. Maybe on a road bike this would be a bigger deal, but I think it is less important on this type of bike.

    Between the shorter cranks and the lunch-ride mods I get a little more clearance. It has also forced me to pay more attention to my pedal position and timing, which has made me a better rider. I am sure there are plenty of people riding these with 175mm cranks, it was just a move that worked for me at the time.

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    11.6 are sold out! What’s next?!




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    Maybe find a used one? I haven't been on a bike in a long time. My spring rate is very different from what you need so mine wouldnt fit you properly anways. Its such a great upgrade, it'll be difficult to find something better.

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  108. #2308
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Maybe find a used one? I haven't been on a bike in a long time. My spring rate is very different from what you need so mine wouldnt fit you properly anways. Its such a great upgrade, it'll be difficult to find something better.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    Oh no don’t worry I love my CCDB Coil inline but what I meant is that (apparently) they stopped selling the 11.6 and sold the remaining stocks with a massive discount because they will release something else soon. Hence the «What’s next?»

  109. #2309
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Oh no don’t worry I love my CCDB Coil inline but what I meant is that (apparently) they stopped selling the 11.6 and sold the remaining stocks with a massive discount because they will release something else soon. Hence the «What’s next?»
    Maybe it'll have red coloring instead of black. Red is fast. I'm curious how it could even be improved though. Great shock. Maybe progressive spring options next.

  110. #2310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave1078 View Post
    I'm curious how it could even be improved though.
    Me too!

  111. #2311
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    I've been looking at the possibility of picking up a 130 as my new trail bike. Specifically the LR has my interest as I would prefer a Grip2, Codes and the EXO+ tires but I don't want the LR travel.

    The fork is simple, 40 bucks and I slam a new Air Piston in it and its back to 150mm. Does anyone know if its possible to place a shim or spacer in the DPX2 to bring it back down to 52.5mm stroke? I know in many shocks its possible to take it out and extend the stroke by a bit but I haven't seen much about doing it the other way!

  112. #2312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magsrgod View Post
    I've been looking at the possibility of picking up a 130 as my new trail bike. Specifically the LR has my interest as I would prefer a Grip2, Codes and the EXO+ tires but I don't want the LR travel.

    The fork is simple, 40 bucks and I slam a new Air Piston in it and its back to 150mm. Does anyone know if its possible to place a shim or spacer in the DPX2 to bring it back down to 52.5mm stroke? I know in many shocks its possible to take it out and extend the stroke by a bit but I haven't seen much about doing it the other way!
    The travel reducer doesn't affect volume in the shock. It can be added, but it's going to be a good amount of labor. You can just run pressure/sag and settings based on the 52.5mm stroke and it's not really going to matter. Not only that, but you'll have more bottom out resistance. My setup is a 150mm grip2 fork and the rear reducer removed. I seems to ride best for me at about 30% (16mm) sag. Less strikes and still nice small bump compliance.

  113. #2313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave1078 View Post
    The travel reducer doesn't affect volume in the shock. It can be added, but it's going to be a good amount of labor. You can just run pressure/sag and settings based on the 52.5mm stroke and it's not really going to matter. Not only that, but you'll have more bottom out resistance. My setup is a 150mm grip2 fork and the rear reducer removed. I seems to ride best for me at about 30% (16mm) sag. Less strikes and still nice small bump compliance.
    I prefer the 150mm over the 160mm as well. Seems to be a little more balanced.

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  114. #2314
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magsrgod View Post
    I've been looking at the possibility of picking up a 130 as my new trail bike. Specifically the LR has my interest as I would prefer a Grip2, Codes and the EXO+ tires but I don't want the LR travel.

    The fork is simple, 40 bucks and I slam a new Air Piston in it and its back to 150mm. Does anyone know if its possible to place a shim or spacer in the DPX2 to bring it back down to 52.5mm stroke? I know in many shocks its possible to take it out and extend the stroke by a bit but I haven't seen much about doing it the other way!
    The fork isn't so simple... the 150 piston kits have been sold out for ages now and in very tight supply from what I'm told. Personally I'm going to 160 as I simply can't charge as hard thru the same trails as my old Balance w/ 170 fork so... YMMV.

    As for the shock... Dave hit the nail on the head. In fact I'll take it a step further and call out Yeti for even offering the 52.5mm stroke which is just idiotic for such a straight rate leverage curve because any aggro rider will be bottoming out a LOT without a can full of volume spacers. If you keep the same sag (16mm) then the bike rides EXACTLY the same, same poppines, fun factor, EVERYTHING IS THE SAME except now you take some of the edge off of the bigger hits, drops and jumps. SHAME ON YETI for even having the 52.5 stroke shock - should be the SB137 on ALL of these if you ask me. You will REGRET not getting the LR version; I know I did!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  115. #2315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    The fork isn't so simple... the 150 piston kits have been sold out for ages now and in very tight supply from what I'm told. Personally I'm going to 160 as I simply can't charge as hard thru the same trails as my old Balance w/ 170 fork so... YMMV.

    As for the shock... Dave hit the nail on the head. In fact I'll take it a step further and call out Yeti for even offering the 52.5mm stroke which is just idiotic for such a straight rate leverage curve because any aggro rider will be bottoming out a LOT without a can full of volume spacers. If you keep the same sag (16mm) then the bike rides EXACTLY the same, same poppines, fun factor, EVERYTHING IS THE SAME except now you take some of the edge off of the bigger hits, drops and jumps. SHAME ON YETI for even having the 52.5 stroke shock - should be the SB137 on ALL of these if you ask me. You will REGRET not getting the LR version; I know I did!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    I actually already have the air shaft sitting around so no big deal there. Makes sense on the rear shock though. I was looking for less travel simply because I also have a 165 for my big boy bike and just looking to lifecycle my everyday trail bike. If there is no loss with the extra travel then I can easily leave it.

    Mostly going down this avenue because for the few hundred difference I think the TLR build out is better than the T2.

  116. #2316
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    Its super easy to remove the travel spacer on the DPX2 rear shock with a nice pair of cable cutters. Do it at your own risk, but it was the first thing I did when I got my SB130.

  117. #2317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ordinarybikes View Post
    Its super easy to remove the travel spacer on the DPX2 rear shock with a nice pair of cable cutters. Do it at your own risk, but it was the first thing I did when I got my SB130.
    I've see the "how to" steps but can't seem to find them. Can someone share without the flack?

  118. #2318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post

    As for the shock... Dave hit the nail on the head. In fact I'll take it a step further and call out Yeti for even offering the 52.5mm stroke which is just idiotic for such a straight rate leverage curve because any aggro rider will be bottoming out a LOT without a can full of volume spacers. If you keep the same sag (16mm) then the bike rides EXACTLY the same, same poppines, fun factor, EVERYTHING IS THE SAME except now you take some of the edge off of the bigger hits, drops and jumps. SHAME ON YETI for even having the 52.5 stroke shock - should be the SB137 on ALL of these if you ask me. You will REGRET not getting the LR version; I know I did!
    100% this - allows you to run the right sag with a sensible amout of V spacers and not bottom out - should be the default.

    I think marketing led them to keep it at 130 to distinguish from the 150 but running it at 136/7 gives the best performace.

    Ive been running the LR rear travel for a year now with the fork still at 150 to keep the front end nimble and its been great.

  119. #2319
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by edbraunbeck View Post
    I've see the "how to" steps but can't seem to find them. Can someone share without the flack?



    Cut the 2.5mm spacer ... and you’re done!

  120. #2320
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    Has anyone replaced bearings yet? I am coming up on one year since I purchased my 130 and curious when folks have been swapping bearings.

  121. #2321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endubro45 View Post
    Has anyone replaced bearings yet? I am coming up on one year since I purchased my 130 and curious when folks have been swapping bearings.
    Shouldn't be too hard. I swapped the bearings on my SB100. Pretty easy. I have the bearing extractor Yeti sells and it works really well. I also have the main pivot bearing guide which but I think that's only for the 100. For insertion, I use the RRP kit with the individual bearing drifts bought separately. The only real issue I see is removing the SI bearings. But I decided I would use a 6902 extractor that requires a punch and hammer. Bearing insertion would be easy for that as well.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

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  123. #2323
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    I didn't realise this bike was PIKE-able. 150mm up front I assume. I'd like to hear a bit more about the PIKE option if any people have experience with that? Seems like a lighter weight option over the Fox 36mm. Possibly lower A-C though, which may not be good, as I see Yeti's build kits spec'd with 170mm cranks already.

  124. #2324
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    Rockshox Super Deluxe MegNeg on sb130?


    People here have Cane Creek DB Coil IL and Fox X2, but I haven't read anyone talking about the Rockshox Super Deluxe MegNeg and I think it could be a good shock for the sb130.

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blo...ng-term-review


    ....We tried the MegNeg on SB130 & SB150 bikes, and it really seemed to shine on those. “Helping” the bike into its travel and requiring less force to do so. Those bikes have such a great pedaling platform but sometimes aren’t the best in repetitive big hits or chatter. The MegNeg was able to retain the bikes pedaling performance while taking the hardness out of the braking bumps. Riders on those bikes ranged from 170lbs to 195lbs on the SB150 and our test rider wasn't super stoked when we asked to get the shock on another bike for the test. It really is that good!.......


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zv9fIQL1JFc&t=0s
    I'm actually looking to get this set up as well. Really want to use a Pike with a Super Deluxe shock + MegNeg. Confused though since RS website says that there are several tunes for the rebound, compression and lockout. Wondering should I just mention that I'm using it for the SB130 and they'll sort it out?

    Also, would anyone know if the Pike is available with 160mm travel for 29" wheels? Is it advisable or would it have too much flex? I'm a pretty light rider and I think the Pike should be stiff enough.

  125. #2325
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    Quote Originally Posted by john85D View Post
    would anyone know if the Pike is available with 160mm travel for 29" wheels? Is it advisable or would it have too much flex? I'm a pretty light rider and I think the Pike should be stiff enough.
    160mm 29 Pike is available!
    Like you said, if you are light and if you are not bombing down rocky trails the Pike would work.

  126. #2326
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    Quote Originally Posted by john85D View Post
    I'm actually looking to get this set up as well. Really want to use a Pike with a Super Deluxe shock + MegNeg. Confused though since RS website says that there are several tunes for the rebound, compression and lockout. Wondering should I just mention that I'm using it for the SB130 and they'll sort it out?
    By «they» do you mean the bike shop? Because they are are usually pretty clueless when it comes to «real» suspension tuning! I would ask Yeti directly ... to find out what tune you should get.

  127. #2327
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    160mm 29 Pike is available!
    Like you said, if you are light and if you are not bombing down rocky trails the Pike would work.
    Nice! Well I plan for the bike to be my one bike. So probably I'll ride it half of the time on DH trails. Hope it's stiff enough for that.

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  128. #2328
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    By «they» do you mean the bike shop? Because they are are usually pretty clueless when it comes to «real» suspension tuning! I would ask Yeti directly ... to find out what tune you should get.
    Yup, the bike shop. I'll try to get info from Yeti. Was hoping to get info and order from worldwidecyclery since they already did it on one of their bikes.

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  129. #2329
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by john85D View Post
    Yup, the bike shop. I'll try to get info from Yeti. Was hoping to get info and order from worldwidecyclery since they already did it on one of their bikes.

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    Make sense, but asking Yeti too wouldn’t hurt

  130. #2330
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    160mm 29 Pike is available!
    Like you said, if you are light and if you are not bombing down rocky trails the Pike would work.
    You would need to be sub 130lb to want to use a pike at 160mm. Is the less than 200 grams really worth the having a noddly fork?
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  131. #2331
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    160mm 29 Pike is available!
    Like you said, if you are light and if you are not bombing down rocky trails the Pike would work.
    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    You would need to be sub 130lb to want to use a pike at 160mm. Is the less than 200 grams really worth the having a noddly fork?


    Honestly, I don't even feel like meeting those conditions is a must... I'm 235lb, sending a 160mm pike down rocky trails at fairly stupid speeds - and I'm making up for lack of bike-handling talent with a mixture of commitment and straight lines.
    I can't claim to be necessarily fast in the grand scheme of things, but on trails I know, half of guys consistently faster than me tend to show up in popular videos - I've ridden better forks, but it's definitely not the biggest thing holding me back.

    Admittedly this isn't on a Yeti... but it's a RockyMountain Instinct (2014) I've hacked into a 160/135mm travel setup that curiously has the same HTA/Reach/WB/BB Drop - so there's something about this setup that just works.
    I'd take a 160 Pike with Luftkappe over most options under the $800 range... and really for a bigger rider I'd be wanting to look at sending Avalanche a new Marzocchi fork, or finding a used Yari and having them drop an open bath damper in it. Yes, both of these options are rocking a beefier CSU and thicker stanchion walls... that isn't a reason to avoid a good deal on a pike, but if you're shoveling out money on a new product, then definitely get something beefier... but you don't have to spend a ton to get amazingly good performance.

  132. #2332
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    Quote Originally Posted by tehllama View Post
    Honestly, I don't even feel like meeting those conditions is a must... I'm 235lb, sending a 160mm pike down rocky trails at fairly stupid speeds - and I'm making up for lack of bike-handling talent with a mixture of commitment and straight lines.
    I can't claim to be necessarily fast in the grand scheme of things, but on trails I know, half of guys consistently faster than me tend to show up in popular videos - I've ridden better forks, but it's definitely not the biggest thing holding me back.

    Admittedly this isn't on a Yeti... but it's a RockyMountain Instinct (2014) I've hacked into a 160/135mm travel setup that curiously has the same HTA/Reach/WB/BB Drop - so there's something about this setup that just works.
    I'd take a 160 Pike with Luftkappe over most options under the $800 range... and really for a bigger rider I'd be wanting to look at sending Avalanche a new Marzocchi fork, or finding a used Yari and having them drop an open bath damper in it. Yes, both of these options are rocking a beefier CSU and thicker stanchion walls... that isn't a reason to avoid a good deal on a pike, but if you're shoveling out money on a new product, then definitely get something beefier... but you don't have to spend a ton to get amazingly good performance.
    I would agree with this. The Pike is sits on a 35mm chassis same as Lyrik but without extra material. I use a 150mm pike on my '16 Stumpjumper and it works great without a noodly feeling. I just acquired an SB130 LR with the Fox36 so it will be interesting to see if I can feel a difference.


  133. #2333
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    lso are you sure about the new Pike being available as 160mm in 29” form?

    The new Ultimate, Select + & Select I believe only go up to 150mm for 29” (160mm for 650b though). RockShox were quite open saying if you want 150mm + on a 29” you should be going for the Lyrik.

    The a2c of the Pike & Lyrik is approx 5mm taller than the equivalent travel Fox 36 for reference.

    Comparing the new Pike to a 36, the 36 is noticeably stiffer.

  134. #2334
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    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    lso are you sure about the new Pike being available as 160mm in 29” form?

    The new Ultimate, Select + & Select I believe only go up to 150mm for 29” (160mm for 650b though). RockShox were quite open saying if you want 150mm + on a 29” you should be going for the Lyrik.

    The a2c of the Pike & Lyrik is approx 5mm taller than the equivalent travel Fox 36 for reference.

    Comparing the new Pike to a 36, the 36 is noticeably stiffer.
    https://www.theproscloset.com/produc...m-maxle-lite15

  135. #2335
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    That’s not a current model fork. The old one yes you could get in 160mm form (if you liked creaking crowns 😆 )

    That’s so old it’s pre debonair!

  136. #2336
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    Then buy a new one and change the shaft

  137. #2337
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    Doesn’t work....

  138. #2338
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Then buy a new one and change the shaft
    What do you mean?! of course it’s possible.

  139. #2339
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    lso are you sure about the new Pike being available as 160mm in 29” form?

    The new Ultimate, Select + & Select I believe only go up to 150mm for 29” (160mm for 650b though).
    www.sram.com/en/rockshox/series/pike/pike?filters=PTA_Wheel%20size|29",PTA_Travel%20(mm )|160mm&sort=Relevancy&page=1

    OR

    https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/ser...levancy&page=1

    Sort & Filters (29" + 160mm)

    TaDa


  140. #2340
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    What do you mean?! of course it’s possible.
    Different chassis from the current model (Select/Select+/Ultimate). Also, even if you could, you are losing the DebonAir part by swapping back to the SoloAir shaft.

  141. #2341
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    www.sram.com/en/rockshox/series/pike/pike?filters=PTA_Wheel%20size|29",PTA_Travel%20(mm )|160mm&sort=Relevancy&page=1

    OR

    https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/ser...levancy&page=1

    Sort & Filters (29" + 160mm)

    TaDa

    You can quote whatever you want, Rockshox do not make a current model Pike of the 3 variants in my previous post, in 29" form with 160mm travel. You have to buy a Lyrik.

    If you don't believe me, try & actually buy one....

  142. #2342
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    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    you are losing the DebonAir part by swapping back to the SoloAir shaft.
    Luftkape! Boom, Done

    But no need as the (new) Pike 29 160mm exist anyway

    Everything’s possible!

  143. #2343
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    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    You can quote whatever you want, Rockshox do not make a current model Pike of the 3 variants in my previous post, in 29" form with 160mm travel. You have to buy a Lyrik.

    If you don't believe me, try & actually buy one....
    Don’t tell me, tell RS, it’s on their website LOL

  144. #2344
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    Thanks for the suggestions and info. I know it's pretty shallow but I'm getting the Pike for its color! Just love the that shiny silver!!

    I was told by Fanatik that I can order the Pike in 160mm travel. On the other hand, worldwidecyclery said I can just get the 150mm fork and swap out the airshaft with this:

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...lation-a1-2018

    Now I'm confused what to get and if that's even possible. Haha.

    What's disappointing though is that I couldn't find anyone willing to get me a 210x55/52.5 Super Deluxe Ultimate. I've asked Yeti and the guy that replied to me said that he's on one and works perfectly. So I'm still searching for a shop willing to get me one.

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

  145. #2345
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Don’t tell me, tell RS, it’s on their website LOL
    Don’t you think I did that, when I tried to buy one...

    Ref the solo air shaft, various suspension tuners have said it’s not comparable with the new fork, so luftcappe or not, it’s not going to fit

  146. #2346
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by john85D View Post
    I was told by Fanatik that I can order the Pike in 160mm travel. On the other hand, worldwidecyclery said I can just get the 150mm fork and swap out the airshaft with this:

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...lation-a1-2018

    Now I'm confused what to get and if that's even possible. Haha.
    Do you think 2 bike shops would sell you something that doesn’t exist?

    Have a look a the «RockShox Spare Parts Catalog»

    https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/...pc_-_rev_g.pdf

    Page 91
    PIKE SELECT/SELECT+/ULTIMATE (2020)

    00.4019.931.000 > AIR SPRING UPGRADE KIT - DEBONAIR 160mm (INCLUDES DEBONAIR ASSEMBLY, SEALHEAD) - PIKE B1+/REVELATION A1+ (2018+)

    Now go to page 93
    PIKE RCT3/RCT/RC B1-B2 (2018-2019)

    00.4019.931.000 > AIR SPRING UPGRADE KIT - DEBONAIR 160mm (INCLUDES DEBONAIR ASSEMBLY, SEALHEAD) - PIKE B1+/REVELATION A1+ (2018+)

    It’s the same shaft, nothing has changed

    So like the 2 shops told you:

    1) buy the 160
    Or
    2) buy one with any travel + 160 shaft

    FYI: https://www.fanatikbike.com/products...16457497641006

    Either way you can get the Pike you wanted! You’re welcome

  147. #2347
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    Am I missing something here? Why would anyone choose a Pike over a Lyrik or Fox 36(or other 'enduro' fork equivalent) on their SB130? Generally speaking, suspension(as well as tires and brakes) isn't something I would count grams and be a weight weenie on.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  148. #2348
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    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    Doesn’t work....
    My 160mm 29er Pike fork in 46mm offset begs to differ - the old version rocks the Luftkappe without issue, and that setup (even in the PikeRC OEM guise) outperforms pretty much any fork I've tried that has an MSRP south of $800... and I have <$500 into that fork. - not only is is possible, it's a pretty affordable setup.

  149. #2349
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by john85D View Post
    I couldn't find anyone willing to get me a 210x55/52.5 Super Deluxe Ultimate. I've asked Yeti and the guy that replied to me said that he's on one and works perfectly. So I'm still searching for a shop willing to get me one.
    https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/2716641/

    210x52.5mm brand new and you can cut the 2.5mm spacer inside to push the stroke to 55mm.



    Source: https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...s-1076592.html

  150. #2350
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    The Pike was the benchmark alongside the 36 for years, right up to and including 160mm 29ers, winning multiple awards. I own a Lyrik (160) and a Pike (150, have had it at 160), and the differences are truly marginal overall. If you're going a burly LR Enduro style build, I could see why going a Lyrik makes sense. However, for a typical SB130 build, for what is a trail bike, I completely get why people go Pike, it's considerably lighter, nearly as stiff, and suits the bike well. Great marketing by SRAM though, restrict the Pikes on sale from 120-150, and bring back the Lyrik at 160-180mm, and all of a sudden call out the Pike as a 'trail fork', when it was the all around Enduro fork of choice for years. No better way to sandwich another model into the line up and convince us (me included lol) to part with more mula!
    And yes, the 160 air shaft fits and works perfectly in the Pike Ultimate. I bought a 120mm one cheaply and put the 160 in, spot on.

  151. #2351
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    The Pike has been ridden hard during the first 2 EWS and with great success! Following riders feedbacks RS then decided to harden the chassis and aim this new fork directly at the 36. The Lyric was born!

    However people seeking the stiffest chassis shouldn’t get a 36

    There seems to be some confusion between the stiffness of the fork and the compression damping, and yes the 36 has a way firmer compression stack so it translates to a more composed fork bombing down rough trails at speed! Yet, the Lyric is stiffer but has a lot less damping

    Good? Bad? Just different! Pick the one you prefer.

    Manitou did some testing about rigidity while working on their new Mezzer, and published the numbers. That’s interesting...

    Torsionally, the Mezzer is 30% stiffer than a Fox 36, 16% stiffer than a Ohlins RFX36, 1% stiffer than a Lyrik

    Fore-aft, the Mezzer is 7% stiffer than a 36, 20% stiffer than a RFX, and 4% stiffer than a Lyrik


    Now back to the Pike and the SB130. Do whatever really, while you can use any of them just know the «stiffer chassis» tend to hold lines a little bit better in the rough. Mind blowing difference? Nope
    Last edited by digev; 02-03-2020 at 12:18 AM.

  152. #2352
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    https://m.pinkbike.com/buysell/2716641/

    210x52.5mm brand new and you can cut the 2.5mm spacer inside to push the stroke to 55mm.



    Source: https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspe...s-1076592.html
    Nice! This is perfect. Will get in touch with the seller. Thanks for the heads up!

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

  153. #2353
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Do you think 2 bike shops would sell you something that doesn’t exist?

    Have a look a the «RockShox Spare Parts Catalog»

    https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/...pc_-_rev_g.pdf

    Page 91
    PIKE SELECT/SELECT+/ULTIMATE (2020)

    00.4019.931.000 > AIR SPRING UPGRADE KIT - DEBONAIR 160mm (INCLUDES DEBONAIR ASSEMBLY, SEALHEAD) - PIKE B1+/REVELATION A1+ (2018+)

    Now go to page 93
    PIKE RCT3/RCT/RC B1-B2 (2018-2019)

    00.4019.931.000 > AIR SPRING UPGRADE KIT - DEBONAIR 160mm (INCLUDES DEBONAIR ASSEMBLY, SEALHEAD) - PIKE B1+/REVELATION A1+ (2018+)

    It’s the same shaft, nothing has changed

    So like the 2 shops told you:

    1) buy the 160
    Or
    2) buy one with any travel + 160 shaft

    FYI: https://www.fanatikbike.com/products...16457497641006

    Either way you can get the Pike you wanted! You’re welcome
    The items were all in my basket until I saw the replies here. Now that I've found a rear shock, it's time to proceed to check out.

    Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

  154. #2354
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  155. #2355
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    Good article. The reviewer rated the ripmo better than the yeti. Ibis makes great bikes too.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  156. #2356
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    It will be interesting to see how the new Pivot Switchblade compares to the Yeti SB130 LR. Similar geo on both except for the BB height.

  157. #2357
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    This is kind of a shot in the dark but if anyone out there with a XL 2020 SB130 wants to trade for a 2020 XO1 L Blue Hightower or 2020 XO1 XL Megatower let me know. Going to keep the build kit on the Mega but can sell either of the frames with the XO1 kit on the Hightower.


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2856.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_2388-1-.jpg  


  158. #2358
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    Quote Originally Posted by cblesius View Post
    This is kind of a shot in the dark but if anyone out there with a XL 2020 SB130 wants to trade for a 2020 XO1 L Blue Hightower or 2020 XO1 XL Megatower let me know. Going to keep the build kit on the Mega but can sell either of the frames with the XO1 kit on the Hightower.


    I'd love to know the back story on this. What made you want to switch?

  159. #2359
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    First Yeti for me. I made the switch from a Hightower to SB130. Got my first ride in and absolutely love this bike. I rode in 12 degrees so I wasn't pushing it downhill but look forward to warmer weather to open it up.

    Custom build.

    C-carbon
    Fox 36 Performance 150mm (84 PSI)
    Fox DPX2 (210 PSI)
    Renthal 50mm stem with carbon lite bar
    Fox Transfer dropper with PNW switch and grips
    GX drivetrain
    Guide RSC brakes
    DT Swiss 1501
    Minion DHR II 2.4 Rear/Minion DHF 2.5 Front

    Upgrades:
    Grip 2 damper
    CC coil

    Name:  SB130_Hesitation Point_200215.jpg
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  160. #2360
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    Hey everyone, I am in need of some aesthetic guidance from you on my Yeti. I have the forest green sb130 (not sure about the colour name). It's this one:
    https://i0.wp.com/www.bikemag.com/wp...0%2C1280&ssl=1

    Now, I am getting a warranty fork and due to stock, only have two colour options (which is fine). I just can't for the life of me guess which will look better on the bike. It's a DVO Diamond, and the colours are the following green and blue. Here they are:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...g?v=1555355629

    https://www.jensonusa.com/globalasse...000&quality=85

    Any thoughts on this would be great. Thanks!

  161. #2361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
    Hey everyone, I am in need of some aesthetic guidance from you on my Yeti. I have the forest green sb130 (not sure about the colour name). It's this one:
    https://i0.wp.com/www.bikemag.com/wp...0%2C1280&ssl=1

    Now, I am getting a warranty fork and due to stock, only have two colour options (which is fine). I just can't for the life of me guess which will look better on the bike. It's a DVO Diamond, and the colours are the following green and blue. Here they are:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...g?v=1555355629

    https://www.jensonusa.com/globalasse...000&quality=85

    Any thoughts on this would be great. Thanks!
    My Vote Would Be:
    https://www.jensonusa.com/globalasse...000&quality=85

    Good Luck !

  162. #2362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
    Hey everyone, I am in need of some aesthetic guidance from you on my Yeti. I have the forest green sb130 (not sure about the colour name). It's this one:
    https://i0.wp.com/www.bikemag.com/wp...0%2C1280&ssl=1

    Now, I am getting a warranty fork and due to stock, only have two colour options (which is fine). I just can't for the life of me guess which will look better on the bike. It's a DVO Diamond, and the colours are the following green and blue. Here they are:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/07...g?v=1555355629

    https://www.jensonusa.com/globalasse...000&quality=85

    Any thoughts on this would be great. Thanks!
    I'd go with the Blue one.

  163. #2363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
    Hey everyone, I am in need of some aesthetic guidance from you on my Yeti.
    DVO Green all day, every day, 2x on Sunday. Consider DVO Green the equivalent of Fox Factory Orange. The color says it all.

  164. #2364
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    get the green. period!

  165. #2365
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Ditto... actually my dealer worked with Yeti to get me the 175 instead of the 150 on my Med and SO glad I did! Very impressed with the Fox Transfer post and the new RaceFace remote lever they are now coming with stock. Highly recommended.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    How tall are you if you don't mind me asking? I have a 150mm post on the way but am wondering if the 175mm would be better. I'm 5'9 with medium frame. We're you able to test out the saddle height on a 150 to determine that you had the extra room below the collar before making the decision to go with 175?

  166. #2366
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzogas413 View Post
    How tall are you if you don't mind me asking? I have a 150mm post on the way but am wondering if the 175mm would be better. I'm 5'9 with medium frame. We're you able to test out the saddle height on a 150 to determine that you had the extra room below the collar before making the decision to go with 175?
    I "was" 5'9" but now 5'8" with compressed L3 disc (sports injury) and 30" inseam. I did not have the ability to test beforehand but I figured it would work considering the short seat-tube length and I was right. The post has external markings and I'm at 1.5 on the scale and could drop another number if needed (to 0.5 before it bottoms) so PLENTY of room - DO IT! In fact I could fit a 200mm dropper if the insertion weren't so long as on the Fox Transfer Post. I believe the OneUp would work! The FTP is a VERY solid post tho and I'm guessing low maintenance so I probably won't switch on this bike.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  167. #2367
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    So, just got my first two rides on the 2020 SB130 TLR, and I'm in total awe of this bike.
    From the stock setup I swapped the wheels for a pair of LB carbon and due to the conditions around Oslo right now I'm running DHR2 2.4 both front and rear for more control and stopping power in the front going downhill.

    I came from a SB4.5, which I always felt was awesome on the ups and across, but became a bit harsh on the downs.

    Now I ride this, and I see that the SB4.5 was not all that awesome on the ups and across either. The SB130 is almost 2kg heavier, but I am still faster and it just feels more.....flowy (is that a word?) - even this early in the season.

    But it does require a more active riding style. Even if it is a longer bike, the rear feels short - and I guess it's a bike that will throw you straight into the bush if you lean to much back at speed. But staying on top of it, and it really loves being thrown into switchbacks. Talking about switchbacks, this actually feels like it's on rails going down. I did expect it to be good, but I found myself laughing in one of the section on our reference trail.

    Setup?
    I put on all the gear and filled my camelback, and got on the scale. It gave me 90,5kg all geared up, and I put that into the shock setup on the yeti homepage. Followed the instructions, and then I went for a ride on our reference trail. It feels totally dialed, both up and down. I will ride with the shockwiz the next weeks, but based on the current handling of the bike across roots, rocks and switchbacks on both descents and climbs - I will be very surprised if it can get even better

  168. #2368
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    Sb130 is more a replacement for the sb55c than a sb45c

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    Instagram/Youtube- Dagonger
    Yeti Cycles sb45c/sb150

  169. #2369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    Sb130 is more a replacement for the sb55c than a sb45c
    Thanks wikipedia. For me it was a replacement for the 4.5 I had, so that is why I compare them - and my point is that it I did not expect it to climb better in technical terrain.

  170. #2370
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    Harsh

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  171. #2371
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Harsh
    I see that my response was a bit harsh, but I just wanted to share my entusiasme - and also my setup since a lot of people here ask about it and are having issues. And the first reply is a cold and emotionless side-note that does not even make sense based on what I am sharing

    When you consume information (reading or hearing), the brain will try to force you into three patterns:

    1. Reasonably guess what this is about. (E.g., "I know what you are going to say/about to read.")
    2. Identify a pattern. (E.g., "I know where this is going")
    3. Something we disagree with (E.g., "That's wrong.")

    When one of those things happens, we actually stop reading/listening and our mind starts preparing our response.

    The response above for me shows that the reader was too fast in concluding on where this is going (e.g. "the post mention SB130 and SB45, so my response is that the SB130 is actually a replacement for SB55"), gives the response and moves on.

  172. #2372
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    My rear TA came loose today on a ride and when I tried tightening it with a 5mm key, it keeps spinning even though it is flush against the dropout. The 6mm collet is locked down tight; I loosened it and can see the axle come though and spin. I added more Loctite but wonder is there is supposed to be a spring washer or something to create tension? Thanks

  173. #2373
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetmotor View Post
    I see that my response was a bit harsh, but I just wanted to share my entusiasme - and also my setup since a lot of people here ask about it and are having issues. And the first reply is a cold and emotionless side-note that does not even make sense based on what I am sharing

    When you consume information (reading or hearing), the brain will try to force you into three patterns:

    1. Reasonably guess what this is about. (E.g., "I know what you are going to say/about to read.")
    2. Identify a pattern. (E.g., "I know where this is going")
    3. Something we disagree with (E.g., "That's wrong.")

    When one of those things happens, we actually stop reading/listening and our mind starts preparing our response.

    The response above for me shows that the reader was too fast in concluding on where this is going (e.g. "the post mention SB130 and SB45, so my response is that the SB130 is actually a replacement for SB55"), gives the response and moves on.

    I was actually enjoying your response until I decided to stop reading since your obviously a bit to serious and analytical. If I ever need a Therapist I'll DM you though. Enjoy your bike.
    Yeti SB165
    Yeti SB150
    Yeti SB130 AXS
    Yeti SB100
    Devinci Spartan
    Devinci Troy
    Spec Enduro 29

  174. #2374
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I was actually enjoying your response until I decided to stop reading since your obviously a bit to serious and analytical. If I ever need a Therapist I'll DM you though. Enjoy your bike.


    I definitely will.

  175. #2375
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    i like the way u put it.

    i came from SB45C and was looking for something that could decent better.

    for riding up, it is up to par if not better despite the weight.

  176. #2376
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    Thanks for the colour advice all who commented! I have a new question now.

    I have the option of getting a new fork at 150mm or 160mm. I could change the fork from one to the other fairly easily afterwards since it's a DVO, but I have only ridden the bike with a 150mm fork. Does anyone have any perspectives on which are more enjoyable to ride? I do a lot of twisty singletrack climbing here, as well as descending, and the trail shifts between XC and AM fairly regularly both up and down.

  177. #2377
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    I "was" 5'9" but now 5'8" with compressed L3 disc (sports injury) and 30" inseam. I did not have the ability to test beforehand but I figured it would work considering the short seat-tube length and I was right. The post has external markings and I'm at 1.5 on the scale and could drop another number if needed (to 0.5 before it bottoms) so PLENTY of room - DO IT! In fact I could fit a 200mm dropper if the insertion weren't so long as on the Fox Transfer Post. I believe the OneUp would work! The FTP is a VERY solid post tho and I'm guessing low maintenance so I probably won't switch on this bike.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Thanks brotha. I found a shop willing to credit me for the parts I wanted to swap out so I ended up spec'ing the AXS dropper. The soon-to-be wife is only approving of one bike to race both XC and enduro on so naturally had to choose the SB130 as the weapon and because of this I wanted to go all out on the full robot gucci build.

  178. #2378
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    Quote Originally Posted by sethde View Post
    I have a 175mm in my medium, so I imagine a 150mm would fit in a small just fine but can't confirm.
    I asked Gman this question earlier, but can you tell me how tall you are? Just gathering some info to help steer decision making on the 150 vs 175 dropper. I'm 5'9" and have a 150mm on order, but I'm wondering if I should tell the shop to hold off installing it in attempt to switch to 175mm

  179. #2379
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
    Thanks for the colour advice all who commented! I have a new question now.

    I have the option of getting a new fork at 150mm or 160mm. I could change the fork from one to the other fairly easily afterwards since it's a DVO, but I have only ridden the bike with a 150mm fork. Does anyone have any perspectives on which are more enjoyable to ride? I do a lot of twisty singletrack climbing here, as well as descending, and the trail shifts between XC and AM fairly regularly both up and down.
    I'm still waiting on my bike so haven't gotten a chance to really test things out but FWIW I'll give you my thoughts. I decided on the LR build but I bought a 150mm spring to get the geo back to normal but still wanted the extra rear plush. I would think 150 would be more playful and probably the better move to make unless you are doing full on enduro or you're riding true all-mountain where you climbing forever and then ripping down, repeat. If your riding twisty, singletrack where your constantly gaining and losing elevation throughout your ride, unless you have super steep rocky descents, I just can't see the 160 being that critical with a HA that is already pretty damn slack with a 150.

  180. #2380
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzogas413 View Post
    I asked Gman this question earlier, but can you tell me how tall you are? Just gathering some info to help steer decision making on the 150 vs 175 dropper. I'm 5'9" and have a 150mm on order, but I'm wondering if I should tell the shop to hold off installing it in attempt to switch to 175mm
    If it helps at all, I’m 6’ 2” on Large SB130 with 210mm OneUp Components Dropper Post V2 and I still have about 30mm of dropper insert tube sticking out. And that’s after professional Retül Bike Fit Set up.

  181. #2381
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzogas413 View Post
    I'm still waiting on my bike so haven't gotten a chance to really test things out but FWIW I'll give you my thoughts. I decided on the LR build but I bought a 150mm spring to get the geo back to normal but still wanted the extra rear plush. I would think 150 would be more playful and probably the better move to make unless you are doing full on enduro or you're riding true all-mountain where you climbing forever and then ripping down, repeat. If your riding twisty, singletrack where your constantly gaining and losing elevation throughout your ride, unless you have super steep rocky descents, I just can't see the 160 being that critical with a HA that is already pretty damn slack with a 150.
    At the end of the day SB130 is an Aggressive Trail bike and SB130 LR is Aggressive+ Trail bike.
    In my own personal opinion if you feel like you need a fully blown Enduro Race bike that can still bring up the hill on your then there’s the SB150 for exactly that purpose.
    I was never a big fan of the LR versions of Yeti bikes. SB5 was just an awesome, fun and super nimble trail bike. But the SB5 LR was just a ruined SB5 since it was climbing much slower than the regular SB5 and even slower then the SB6 and was not able to bomb down as good as the SB6 was. I used to own 2017 SB6 and I had a chance to put multiple miles on the regular SB5 and SB5 LR on my LBS loner bikes.
    SB130 is PLENTY capable bike. I would definitely recommend against the 160mm travel fork in order not to ruin the incredible climbing abilities of this bike. I would say maybe have the rear shock to the LR version with additional 7mm of travel. But keep that fork at 150mm.
    The owner of my LBS had in the past 2 years all of these versions of SB130 (Regular, LR, 160mm Fork only, 137mm Shock Only) and when I was building my custom SB130 thru the shop he highly recommended me just to upgrade the Fox 36 fork to Grip2 damper but keep the front and rear travel at stock (130/150).

  182. #2382
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    Is there really a noticeable difference in climbing between 150 and 160 up front?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  183. #2383
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Is there really a noticeable difference in climbing between 150 and 160 up front?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    Extra 10mm of travel plus probably about 0.5° of head angle difference will make a difference on climbs.

  184. #2384
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Is there really a noticeable difference in climbing between 150 and 160 up front?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    I didnt notice it. Or just my place aint that steep.

  185. #2385
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    I would definitely recommend against the 160mm travel fork in order not to ruin the incredible climbing abilities of this bike.
    that’s a bit extreme to say it will “ruin the climbing abilities” of the bike... it will continue to be a good climber you are just moving the needle a bit towards a more aggressive trail bike you are not ruining anything about the bike.

  186. #2386
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    As for the shock... Dave hit the nail on the head. In fact I'll take it a step further and call out Yeti for even offering the 52.5mm stroke which is just idiotic for such a straight rate leverage curve because any aggro rider will be bottoming out a LOT without a can full of volume spacers. If you keep the same sag (16mm) then the bike rides EXACTLY the same, same poppines, fun factor, EVERYTHING IS THE SAME except now you take some of the edge off of the bigger hits, drops and jumps. SHAME ON YETI for even having the 52.5 stroke shock - should be the SB137 on ALL of these if you ask me. You will REGRET not getting the LR version; I know I did!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Interesting -- I am having my LBS throw a Grip2 on my fork while I am out of town.. I never thought to run the 150 w/ Grip2 and just LR the rear shock... I am intrigued!

  187. #2387
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    Quote Originally Posted by awis View Post
    I didnt notice it. Or just my place aint that steep.
    I noticed it a bit my first ride or two, but adjusted to it quickly and now forget I even made the change to 160. Just need to lean forward a bit when it gets like super punchy steep, but on long sustained fireroad climbs I don't think it makes a difference. And on the way down I think the extra 10mm is meaningful.

  188. #2388
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    Anyone else notice the G2 brake pads rattle so much that your bike sounds like it's coming apart? They work great (especially after going 203 front rotor; no need for Codes) but the rattle is driving me crazy. Going to try pad sauce (basically an adhesive for the backs of the pads on the pistons to keep them in place). Just curious if I'm the only one?! Read somewhere the new Shimano XT's are doing the same thing?

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  189. #2389
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Anyone else notice the G2 brake pads rattle so much that your bike sounds like it's coming apart? They work great (especially after going 203 front rotor; no need for codes) but the rattle is driving me crazy. Going to try pad sauce (basically an adhesive for the backs of the pads on the pistons to keep them in place). Just curious if I'm the only one?!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Im on G2 RSC but I dont have any problem like u reported. perhaps loosen screw?

  190. #2390
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    I have G2s as well an no rattling.

  191. #2391
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    Thanks for the responses. Apparently it's occurring on 15% or so and appears to be the result of out-of-spec pad retaining clips (either too weak and/or mounting pin hole too large). The fix is to push a 6mm allen key above the top bend (at the mount hole) which tightens it all up. I'll report back after I try it. This was in the Brakes forum so I know I'm not crazy https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/s...e-1100819.html

    Cheers,

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  192. #2392
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross86 View Post
    Interesting -- I am having my LBS throw a Grip2 on my fork while I am out of town.. I never thought to run the 150 w/ Grip2 and just LR the rear shock... I am intrigued!
    Ive been running it like this for a year. Exactly what Gman086 View Post said. Allows me to run proper sag and not bottom out. My bike is a trail bike so I keep the front end at 150 for the tight stuff

  193. #2393
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    Quote Originally Posted by Staktup View Post
    My rear TA came loose today on a ride and when I tried tightening it with a 5mm key, it keeps spinning even though it is flush against the dropout. The 6mm collet is locked down tight; I loosened it and can see the axle come though and spin. I added more Loctite but wonder is there is supposed to be a spring washer or something to create tension? Thanks
    My shop advised me to remove the rear wheel and tighten the axle, which I did. It engaged, so I put the wheel back on and it tightened up nice and snug. Hopefully the problem is solved!

  194. #2394
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    Quote Originally Posted by zzzogas413 View Post
    I asked Gman this question earlier, but can you tell me how tall you are? Just gathering some info to help steer decision making on the 150 vs 175 dropper. I'm 5'9" and have a 150mm on order, but I'm wondering if I should tell the shop to hold off installing it in attempt to switch to 175mm
    I'm 5'9" with short legs and run a 170mm dropper (OneUp) on my medium SB130 and have a spare 20mm below the collar, so deffo go for something longer than 150mm.
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build
    My Youtube channel Trail Bike Mike

  195. #2395
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    After riding the SB140 and SB130 I finally pulled the trigger on an SB130LR to replace my SB66c YESTERDAY. IT should be here later this week!

  196. #2396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    So Yeti is now spec'ing their bikes with 50mm stems instead of 40mm and some on here have insinuated that is because Yeti wants you to weight the front wheel more (they told me that too on the phone). The REAL reason is that RaceFace is not making shorter than 50mm for Turbine 35 or Ride stems (what Yeti spec's) for 35mm bars!

    Out of curiosity, how many of you are using stems shorter than 50mm on your SB130's?

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    My 2020 LR is shipping this week with a 50mm turbine. Wonder if I should swap it when it comes.

  197. #2397
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123ski View Post
    My 2020 LR is shipping this week with a 50mm turbine. Wonder if I should swap it when it comes.
    If you're at the upper end of the size range you'll probably be fine. If in the middle, go 40mm for sure - I've tried shorter and longer and 40 is the ticket.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  198. #2398
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Thanks for the responses. Apparently it's occurring on 15% or so and appears to be the result of out-of-spec pad retaining clips (either too weak and/or mounting pin hole too large). The fix is to push a 6mm allen key above the top bend (at the mount hole) which tightens it all up. I'll report back after I try it. This was in the Brakes forum so I know I'm not crazy https://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/s...e-1100819.html

    Cheers,

    G
    So the fix worked like a charm - ZERO rattles. I have a QUIET SB130 for a FREAKIN CHANGE - HALLELUJAH!!! I chased that rattle for 6 months before I figured it out. I was honestly ready to lose the frame thinking it was cable slap or SI slop, SMH. Hope this helps.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  199. #2399
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123ski View Post
    After riding the SB140 and SB130 I finally pulled the trigger on an SB130LR to replace my SB66c YESTERDAY. IT should be here later this week!
    Congrats! Just curious why you chose 130 over 140, and how tall you are.

    Quote Originally Posted by 123ski View Post
    My 2020 LR is shipping this week with a 50mm turbine. Wonder if I should swap it when it comes.
    I run a 40 Renthal Apex on my Medium frame- I think a 50 would make the long reach even longer which I don't want (I'm 5'8").

  200. #2400
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    For those interested, new ride review for the Marzocchi Bomber CR Coil from WWC...

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blo...l-rider-review

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