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  1. #2001
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    We the people ...

    Quote Originally Posted by stolenteg View Post
    I'm no wizard at setting up suspension, still trying to get my grip2 160mm fork to feel *plush* in rocks garden.
    .....
    I am about 160-165 riding weight atm
    I am the same weight also with a 160mm Grip2 36. I also had issues with getting my fork plush. It seems the Grip 2 works better with heavier riders. A key thing to check is that you are running 30% sag as per Yeti's recommendation (not 15-20% that Fox say). I was, but it still wasn't plush.

    I started by cleaning excess grease from the air side to stop any getting in the port between negative and positive air spring (there are a fair bit there). This seemed to help a little, but not much. I then fitted a Luftkappe, which fixed the issue. The fork is much better now.

    I'm running 50psi with no volume spacers (the Luftkappe actually counts as 1 spacer). This gets me bang on 30% sag and my ShockWiz seems to think everything is near perfect. It certainly feels a lot better than from factory.
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build

  2. #2002
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    I just acquired an SB130LR. My original plan was to get a straight 130 but the LR came up on PB with carbon wheels at a good price. So I went for it. I thought it was a stock build but I noticed the stem is shorter than spec'd which I'm cool with since I'd likely swap it out anyway. So it looks like a build up.

    Bigger issue, it came with a 170mm grip2 fork. Wow, wasn't expecting that. I know (I think) I can swap the air shaft to 160 or even 150. Q is what should I expect with the 170mm?

    I haven't ridden it yet, because it just came yesterday. I'm still putting it together. I'm mostly a technical trail rider in Marin county California. I'll definitely get up to the mountains occasionally and get to the bike park and ride some gnarlier stuff. So I'm sure the 170 will be great for that. But I'm wondering for straight trail riding if I should downsize it?


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  3. #2003
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    Are you sure it's a 170mm. A 160mm will have stanchion of 170mm btw.

    Better way to check is let all the air out and measure how much it actually compresses.

  4. #2004
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    also why not ask the seller? 170mm fork will increase bb height, likely not ideal for climbing, your front wheel might feel a little vague, I'd not be running a 170 in this bike

  5. #2005
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    Agreed! You値l keep loosing the front in corners.

  6. #2006
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    Is anyone running their sb130 with the rear long shocked, but with a 150mm fork? How do you like it?

  7. #2007
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    Advise please.
    I知 an owner of a SB6 and love it. I want to try the 29er game. I知 considering the 130 TLR but also thinking of the 150. I知 a Golden CO native and now live in Hong Kong. The trails here are chunky with a bit of XC feel. There are shuttle options out here that are chunky and steep. I値l only be shuttling about 30% of the time. I知 wondering if anyone has come off the SB6 to the 130 LR and felt under gunned. 70% of my riding will be short tech climbs with tech DH. I知 not sure if I should go 150 or 130LR. I知 not racing but enjoy having a bike that will make up for my mistakes. The riding here in Hong Kong is not like the front range. It痴 not 1500 up and bomb down. More short climbs and around 10 miles for a loop. I want a bike that will inspire me on the DH like the SB6, but I keep reading the 150 is mostly for chargers going Mach with climbing as an after thought. Anyone think the 130 TLR will be a good replacement for my SB6 or should I go for the 150?

  8. #2008
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    Had the SB6, thought I was fast on it ... then moved on to the SB5.5 (even faster) ... and again to the SB130 ... totally stocked! Go for the 130 you can do everything on it and it rips.

  9. #2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by stolenteg View Post
    Are you sure it's a 170mm. A 160mm will have stanchion of 170mm btw.

    Better way to check is let all the air out and measure how much it actually compresses.
    I pulled the code off the back and emailed it to Fox. They told me it's a 170. Although when I compress and measure it only goes 155.

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  10. #2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    also why not ask the seller? 170mm fork will increase bb height, likely not ideal for climbing, your front wheel might feel a little vague, I'd not be running a 170 in this bike
    Yeah I'll do that. So the question is do I go down to 160 or 150

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  11. #2011
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    I dont see why anyone would put a 170 on a 130. I bet you it may be a 170 and reduce to 160 if it only compress 155 max. Even though it should compress 160 and have 10 exposed left

  12. #2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by stolenteg View Post
    I dont see why anyone would put a 170 on a 130. I bet you it may be a 170 and reduce to 160 if it only compress 155 max. Even though it should compress 160 and have 10 exposed left
    Fully extended it measures 170 edge to edge on the crown and stanchion.. When I compress it all the way down It may go to 160. But there's a little bit of spring at the end so I had to push pretty hard on it even with all the air out

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  13. #2013
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    hoping that someone can save me some time here as i am sure it has already been asked at some point....

    how does the 130 do with the x2 shock?

    anyone have the true weight of an XX1 equipped, XL 130 tlr? With either the aluminum or carbon wheels...

  14. #2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironpeddler View Post
    hoping that someone can save me some time here as i am sure it has already been asked at some point....

    how does the 130 do with the x2 shock?

    anyone have the true weight of an XX1 equipped, XL 130 tlr? With either the aluminum or carbon wheels...
    There's a few posts above with people on the X2.

    Here are a few good videos on the differences between the X2 and DPX2 (also the DPS)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K94N7fTOLMQ

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rPun6VBrag

  15. #2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave1078 View Post
    Is anyone running their sb130 with the rear long shocked, but with a 150mm fork? How do you like it?
    I am running the stock 150mm Fox 36 but I ended up replacing my Factory DPX2 52.5mm with a Cane Creek DBCoilIL 55mm - the same stroke as the SB130LR. While not exactly a direct comparison from a stock setup, the 6mm increase of travel (130mm to 136mm) is negligible. As far as sag is concerned, 30% of 2.5 mm (52.5mm to 55mm stroke) translates to a .75mm increase.

    Not much to report for the "long" shock and the 150mm fork combination other than it rides as expected (great!). However, the coil shock is definitely an improvement. Getting settings dialed for my weight and style.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  16. #2016
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by DesertVelo View Post
    I am running the stock 150mm Fox 36 but I ended up replacing my Factory DPX2 52.5mm with a Cane Creek DBCoilIL 55mm ...

    Not much to report for the "long" shock and the 150mm fork combination other than it rides as expected (great!). However, the coil shock is definitely an improvement. Getting settings dialed for my weight and style.
    That shock rules! Do you know the settings you池e using?! LSC/LSR/HSC/HSR

  17. #2017
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    Yeti specs the 2020 130 with a 50mm stem, but last year all new 130's came equipped with 40mm stems. Interesting that they would decide to change that....

    I know stem length preference is different for every rider, but any experiences or thoughts on running both 40 and 50 back-to-back on a "stock" build (150mm Fork)? Just curious.

  18. #2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Yeti specs the 2020 130 with a 50mm stem, but last year all new 130's came equipped with 40mm stems. Interesting that they would decide to change that....
    That choice was likely based on putting more of a riders weight over the front end to help with ease of adjusting to the more forward body position benefit with the longer front center and reduced offset forks of the new Geo bikes.
    Yeti SB165
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  19. #2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    That choice was likely based on putting more of a riders weight over the front end to help with ease of adjusting to the more forward body position benefit with the longer front center and reduced offset forks of the new Geo bikes.
    that's true... also a lot of people are feeling in between sizes feeling too cramped while climbing seated but comfortable with the longer reach in one size or comfortable while climbing seated but thinking reach is too long if they size up, a longer stem reduces this gap a little, even though it also increases the reach it's more noticeable when you are seated

  20. #2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    That shock rules! Do you know the settings you池e using?! LSC/LSR/HSC/HSR
    Ageed! I need a little more time to adjust the settings but I started with the neutral base (stock). From there, I added 1 click to the LSC/LSR to take care of pedal feel. I increased the HSR +1/2 and left the HSC alone for now.

    For my 70.9kg/156lb rider weight (fully kitted out)
    LSC 8 clicks
    LSR 11 clicks
    HSR 2.5 turns
    HSC 2 turns

    Last weekend's ride was mostly climbing so I need to ride other terrain to get the rest of it dialed in. I am using the 2.25x450 VALT spring about 28% sag.

    Definitely a different feel than the Factory DPX2, which is a great shock.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  21. #2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    That choice was likely based on putting more of a riders weight over the front end to help with ease of adjusting to the more forward body position benefit with the longer front center and reduced offset forks of the new Geo bikes.
    Totally agree; however, I ended up using a 44mm stem on my 2019 model after experimenting with a 50mm. Yeti must have received feedback from riders with a focus on handling to make the change. All things for the better, hopefully, but it is still a personal preference. I like how the 2020 models are using 170mm cranks throughout the line.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  22. #2022
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    Hi skinnybex.

    Rallon R5 VS SB130 ?

    Thank you

  23. #2023
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    they have a rallon r5? what's a rallon r5?

  24. #2024
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    Hi skinnybex.

    Rallon R5 VS SB130 ?

    Thank you
    For a do everything bike that checks every single box as far as fun factor and capability I'd say SB130 with a 160mm fork and the limiter removed on the rear shock giving you 136mm travel.

    If your a smasher and ride Bike Park as much as general trail riding then the Rallon with the new rear linkage is Damn near perfect giving you 170/160mm and more progresivity but the Rallon slightly less rewarding to ride in general as the SB130.

    Tradeoffs to both since the Yeti will have less rear tire clearance and need a bit more maintenece for the SI but the bike climbs amazingly and is lively and nimble on all types of trails whereas the Rallon is a big mountain smasher that still is fun to ride on tamer terrain


    SB130 !!!!!
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  25. #2025
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    Last year I bought a Orbea Rallon 2018 and I am happy with it because it ascends very well, it descends very well but it is dry and insipid.

    I think the Yeti sb130 can be more fun than the Rallon. My intention is to configure it 130/150 because in my area there are not many rocks and I think that 136/160 are not necessary here, although I think that in the future I will make the change ....

  26. #2026
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    Hi.

    I have had many Santa Cruz. Last year I bought a Orbea Rallon 2018 and I am happy with it because it ascends very well, it descends very well but it is dry and insipid . I was waiting for the new bicycles of Santa Cruz, but I am disappointed with the STA. Now I like the yeti sb130 in the 130/150 configuration. Who has had the rallon 2018 .... what important differences exist? (Rallon vs Sb130).

    Thank you.

    Regards
    Uzzy, i can comment on the rallon vs 130 or 150. it basically splits the difference b/w these two. i felt like my rallon was a ripper every time i rode it. the rallon feels slightly shorter and slightly more upright/ ie higher bb. this is just my observation, specs may say otherwise... i may actually prefer the rallon that i sold for its quicker handling. however i felt the rallon too linear(new linkage could remedy this). nothing seems to climb as well as the yeti's(referring to seating position and supsension going up). maybe the ripmo.

    overall maybe the yeti could be summed up more like a speedy racer, rallon more of a capable trail / all mtn bike? little nuances, both are killer. I just sold the rallon mainly b/c of fear that it would be hard to sell later, look at the orbea forum...crickets. the rallon is very very good for how unpopular it seems.


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  27. #2027
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrkrft69 View Post
    I pulled the code off the back and emailed it to Fox. They told me it's a 170. Although when I compress and measure it only goes 155.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    Was it a custom build? Are the forks orange?

    Mine is a custom build and the orange 36 with reduced offset only come in 170mm.

    So the previous owner probably changed the air spring, but looking up on the Fox website will obviously give you spec from factory.
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build

  28. #2028
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post
    Uzzy, i can comment on the rallon vs 130 or 150. it basically splits the difference b/w these two. i felt like my rallon was a ripper every time i rode it. the rallon feels slightly shorter and slightly more upright/ ie higher bb. this is just my observation, specs may say otherwise... i may actually prefer the rallon that i sold for its quicker handling. however i felt the rallon too linear(new linkage could remedy this). nothing seems to climb as well as the yeti's(referring to seating position and supsension going up). maybe the ripmo.


    overall maybe the yeti could be summed up more like a speedy racer, rallon more of a capable trail / all mtn bike? little nuances, both are killer. I just sold the rallon mainly b/c of fear that it would be hard to sell later, look at the orbea forum...crickets. the rallon is very very good for how unpopular it seems.
    Thank you.

  29. #2029
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    Was it a custom build? Are the forks orange?

    Mine is a custom build and the orange 36 with reduced offset only come in 170mm.

    So the previous owner probably changed the air spring, but looking up on the Fox website will obviously give you spec from factory.
    I asked the previous owner. Looks like a sb150 kit dropped on an sb130 frame. The fork is neutral black. Specs say 170. Just trying to figure out if it's stroked down to 160. I'll probly drop it down to 150mm for trail riding.

    What I don't know is if that will lower the BB

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  30. #2030
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    when you order a tlr 130 edition and you want to get the axs and carbon wheel upgrade. What axs does it upgrade to...the xx1 axs or x01 axs? It does not specify on their website which one it is, it just says "AXS" and nothing else.

    And if you get the dt swiss 1200 carbon wheel upgrade what hubs does it come with? I am assuming dt swiss 240 hubs but again it does not specify on their website.

  31. #2031
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironpeddler View Post
    when you order a tlr 130 edition and you want to get the axs and carbon wheel upgrade. What axs does it upgrade to...the xx1 axs or x01 axs? It does not specify on their website which one it is, it just says "AXS" and nothing else.

    And if you get the dt swiss 1200 carbon wheel upgrade what hubs does it come with? I am assuming dt swiss 240 hubs but again it does not specify on their website.
    The Swedish shop I just ordered a TLR AXS through had it down as XX1 AXS.

  32. #2032
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironpeddler View Post
    when you order a tlr 130 edition and you want to get the axs and carbon wheel upgrade. What axs does it upgrade to...the xx1 axs or x01 axs? It does not specify on their website which one it is, it just says "AXS" and nothing else.

    And if you get the dt swiss 1200 carbon wheel upgrade what hubs does it come with? I am assuming dt swiss 240 hubs but again it does not specify on their website.
    Btw, not sure those DT hoops are that solid, considering they池e on the beefed up version of the 130, believe they池e marketed more as XC/trail. I壇 spend that money on other carbon wheels if I where u, like Nobl/Santa CRUZ.

  33. #2033
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrkrft69 View Post
    I asked the previous owner. Looks like a sb150 kit dropped on an sb130 frame. The fork is neutral black. Specs say 170. Just trying to figure out if it's stroked down to 160. I'll probly drop it down to 150mm for trail riding.

    What I don't know is if that will lower the BB

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    If the fork has 170mm exposed its a 170mm fork. Its likely got some tokens installed which is why you can't compress it all the way even without air in it.

  34. #2034
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    Hi.

    I can't find any sb130 Turq Series 2019 frame size L new in stock in Europe.

    Can any European help me?

  35. #2035
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    Hi.

    I can't find any sb130 Turq Series 2019 frame size L new in stock in Europe.

    Can any European help me?
    Try these guys!

    TST Trading GmbH
    Eiweg 10
    CH-4460 Gelterkinden
    +41 61 985 50 85
    [email protected]

    OR

    +44 1246 566 555
    [email protected]

  36. #2036
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lpcunity View Post
    Advise please.
    I知 an owner of a SB6 and love it....I want a bike that will inspire me on the DH like the SB6, but I keep reading the 150 is mostly for chargers going Mach with climbing as an after thought. Anyone think the 130 TLR will be a good replacement for my SB6 or should I go for the 150?
    I have an sb150 and 130. If I had to choose one I'd probably go with the 150. It climbs very well and can be made into a faster bike by tire choice, lighter wheels, and even dropping the fork down to 160. If you have an sb6 (which I've never tried), I'd think the 130 might feel less plush/forgiving. However, the 130 is likely to be faster due to the 29 wheels and will suit your hk trails well. Guess it comes down to this...would you trade your sb6 for an sb5? Also depends on how long your rides are. If you go out for 2 hours or 4 hours, may influence the long vs medium travel choice. You are right that the sb150 loves to go fast in steep terrain, but it is not a one trick pony.

  37. #2037
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    I was kind of hoping that the LR 130 would be more like the 150 than the regular 130. With a grip2 160mm instead of the fit4 150mm in the front and it has a slightly larger rear shock 210x55mm compared to 210x52.5mm, the 130 should be able to handle the more burly stuff better like the 150 does while still being a better climber and faster on the flatter trails. Or maybe i am just dreaming

  38. #2038
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironpeddler View Post
    And if you get the dt swiss 1200 carbon wheel upgrade what hubs does it come with? I am assuming dt swiss 240 hubs but again it does not specify on their website.
    Correct - 240 straightpull hubs with 6 bolt flanges (NOT centerlocks which I would have preferred). DT Swiss knows how to make wheels and those 30mm IW hoops are stronger than most so... I wouldn't worry about them unless you run crazy low tire pressures.

    Have FUN!

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  39. #2039
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    Quote Originally Posted by nortonwhis View Post
    If the fork has 170mm exposed its a 170mm fork. Its likely got some tokens installed which is why you can't compress it all the way even without air in it.
    My 2020 HSLC has a 160mm airshaft and about 170mm of exposed stanchion...I forget the exact number. I'm no suspension expert, but I investigated when it first arrived and learned that it's normal for this fork to have quite a bit of unused stanchion.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  40. #2040
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironpeddler View Post
    I was kind of hoping that the LR 130 would be more like the 150 than the regular 130. With a grip2 160mm instead of the fit4 150mm in the front and it has a slightly larger rear shock 210x55mm compared to 210x52.5mm, the 130 should be able to handle the more burly stuff better like the 150 does while still being a better climber and faster on the flatter trails. Or maybe i am just dreaming
    Well, I've only ridden the 130LR, so I wont be able to give you the comparison...but it's extremely capable. Unless you spend most of your time in park and smashing big rock gardens, I cant imagine needing a SB150. There's a local trail with a couple big/painful drop-to-flat I use to test suspension...the 130 LR handled these equal to my Wreckoning. Overall I feel like the suspension and leverage curve uses/gives up a lot of its travel quite regularly, making it ride bigger than it is...and happy to say, this does not seem to translate into harsh bottom-outs. For another reference, I did a couple demo days on the Rallon...I found the 130LR to be more capable in every regard.

    I dropped a grand on an extra rear wheel and cassette so I could a 2.5 Aggressor with cushcore so I could run lower pressures in the back to make up for the lack of travel...that was pretty much wasted money.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by RAG2; 09-04-2019 at 07:10 AM.

  41. #2041
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    Anybody better versed than I in BB standards able to tell me if this "thread-together" Pressfit BB from Wheels Manufacturing would be the right size for our Yeti? (This style BB eliminates creaking for me on my last couple bikes, and sure enough starting to hear some slight creaking creep in)

    https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bbrighttm-outboard-abec-3-bb-for-29mm-sram-dub-cranks-black.html



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  42. #2042
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    Anybody better versed than I in BB standards able to tell me if this "thread-together" Pressfit BB from Wheels Manufacturing would be the right size for our Yeti?
    I can't tell from your photo, but the wheels mfg bb you'll need for the yeti is dependent upon the cranks you have. But they have a PF BB92 for shimano and sram and sram dub. Go to https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets.html and on the left side click bb86/92. Then you'll see your options. They are very good bottom brackets, but I've had no issues with $30 Shimano press fit BBs. But if I was going to buy something nice, it would be a wheels mfg. And if you're still not sure, call their number at the bottom of the web page, they are a good company, easy to deal with.

  43. #2043
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Try these guys!

    TST Trading GmbH
    Eiweg 10
    CH-4460 Gelterkinden
    +41 61 985 50 85
    [email protected]

    OR

    +44 1246 566 555
    [email protected]
    Thank you.

    I have not been able to buy outside my country.

    I have finally bought a turquoise 2020 frame.

    I currently have a fox 36 RC2 fork and it works fine. Maybe the Nate Hills videos have caused me to want to install a red 2020 Lyrik Ultimate fork on my turquoise SB130 but there are few Lyrik Ultimate forks out there. Do you know what the reason may be? Are those forks working badly?

    Greetings.

  44. #2044
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    Anybody better versed than I in BB standards able to tell me if this "thread-together" Pressfit BB from Wheels Manufacturing would be the right size for our Yeti? (This style BB eliminates creaking for me on my last couple bikes, and sure enough starting to hear some slight creaking creep in)

    https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...nks-black.html



    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...m-bracket.html

    this is what you need for DUB cranks. You can only use thread together for shimano or gxp cranks no space in the bb shell for dub or 30mm spindle.

  45. #2045
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket...m-bracket.html

    this is what you need for DUB cranks. You can only use thread together for shimano or gxp cranks no space in the bb shell for dub or 30mm spindle.
    Ahh, that explains it then. Thank you

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  46. #2046
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    Hi.

    I can't find any sb130 Turq Series 2019 frame size L new in stock in Europe.

    Can any European help me?
    Silverfish UK are the UK distributors:

    https://www.silverfish-uk.com/manufacturer/Yeti-Cycles

  47. #2047
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    Finally got my new build dialed in. Thought I'd post some photos of the new 2020 color and some personal touches.

    Turq 2 XO1 build. I've run two bikes for the last 5+ years (short and long travel) and for the first time I really think this one bike covers all my needs.

    Running the Enve wheelset in the photos with Hans Damf and Nobby Nic for lighter duty trail riding. Build weight as shown is just over 28 lbs. I've got a set of Santa Cruz Reserve 30's with 2.5 Assegai and 2.5 Aggressor for bigger trails and considering getting a coil shock to compliment. As expected, the much grippier/heavier rubber completely changes the character of the bike. I've truly never ridden a bike that can climb so well and also handle steep, long descents so well.

    Little things.....Syncro mud guard is pretty slick integrated with the Fox 36, had the bike swapped for 175 cranks (170 cranks just tweak my knees and I haven't had any issues with low BB at all), 150mm fork feels perfect..no interest in up-forking to 160mm, slapped on some custom Fox decals on suspension.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_9512.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_9513.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_9515.jpg  

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_9516.jpg  


  48. #2048
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingofbiscuits View Post
    Silverfish UK are the UK distributors:

    https://www.silverfish-uk.com/manufacturer/Yeti-Cycles

    Thank you.

    I will finally buy the latest 2020 version in Spain.

    Regards

  49. #2049
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Finally got my new build dialed in. Thought I'd post some photos of the new 2020 color and some personal touches.

    Turq 2 XO1 build. I've run two bikes for the last 5+ years (short and long travel) and for the first time I really think this one bike covers all my needs.

    Running the Enve wheelset in the photos with Hans Damf and Nobby Nic for lighter duty trail riding. Build weight as shown is just over 28 lbs. I've got a set of Santa Cruz Reserve 30's with 2.5 Assegai and 2.5 Aggressor for bigger trails and considering getting a coil shock to compliment. As expected, the much grippier/heavier rubber completely changes the character of the bike. I've truly never ridden a bike that can climb so well and also handle steep, long descents so well.

    Little things.....Syncro mud guard is pretty slick integrated with the Fox 36, had the bike swapped for 175 cranks (170 cranks just tweak my knees and I haven't had any issues with low BB at all), 150mm fork feels perfect..no interest in up-forking to 160mm, slapped on some custom Fox decals on suspension.
    I really like the Storm color this year. Looks nice. Are you running 2.6 schwalbes?

  50. #2050
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    Running 2.35 Schwalbe's. I'm really a fan of 2.35-2.5 tires. I've tried the 2.6's and they just felt too high volume and kind of vague for my personal preference.

  51. #2051
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Running 2.35 Schwalbe's. I'm really a fan of 2.35-2.5 tires. I've tried the 2.6's and they just felt too high volume and kind of vague for my personal preference.
    Gotcha. The 2.35 Schwalbes (Magic Mary, HD2, Nobby nic, & Rock Razor) I've tried all measured 2.4" or bigger.

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    Is the AXS upgrade for the XO build and XX1 build always the XX AXS?

    Wonder if you buy the 2020 T2 kit with the AXS upgrade, is it the XX AXS kit? Just sold my SB6 and ordered the 2020, T2 kit with AXS but I don't recall if the upgrade is XX AXS or XO AXS. I still have my SB4.5 but will be moving some bling parts over before I sell it. This is my current SB4.5.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_5783.jpg  


  53. #2053
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXMTBMonkey View Post
    Wonder if you buy the 2020 T2 kit with the AXS upgrade, is it the XX AXS kit? Just sold my SB6 and ordered the 2020, T2 kit with AXS but I don't recall if the upgrade is XX AXS or XO AXS. I still have my SB4.5 but will be moving some bling parts over before I sell it. This is my current SB4.5.
    The Eagle AXS upgrade option includes The XX AXS Rear Derailleur and an XX AXS controller and 1 battery and charger.

    All the other group components stay unchanged and are the exact same as listed on the spec sheet.
    Yeti SB165
    Yeti SB150
    Yeti SB130 AXS
    Yeti SB100
    Yeti SB5.5
    Orbea Rallon
    Devinci Spartan
    Devinci Troy

  54. #2054
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    Just put a deposit down on a 2020 sb130 medium turquoise t1 build through bikeco.com! Stoked for the bike, and the new xt groupset. bikeco.com has been super easy to work with, even offered a small discount on the bike! Slapping on the frame protector kit, shuttle guard, and chainguide/bash guard. Should have it within a few weeks. Now I just need to sell my 4.5.

  55. #2055
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    Does anyone know what dropper lever they are spec-ing with 2020 models? Thanks!

  56. #2056
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    Quote Originally Posted by roaringfork View Post
    Does anyone know what dropper lever they are spec-ing with 2020 models? Thanks!
    fox transfer

  57. #2057
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    fox transfer
    Bummer. Will definitely switch my wolftooth over to the new bike. The fox lever might be the worst bike part I've ever used. Broke 2 collars torqued to spec.

  58. #2058
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    I ordered mine on 9/10 from my local Yeti dealer. He said it would arrive in a week which would be 9/17. I called yesterday and he said that Yeti is back ordered on rear shocks and wheels? So, now he is saying next Wednesday. He is going to swap out the fork for the shinney orange Fox. I am planning on moving some of my orange parts over to the new bike as soon as I get it, then put my 4.5 back to stock and then for sale. It's like Christmas, the waiting is killing me!

  59. #2059
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    Just got word they will have my bike built and shipped by next Friday. Sweet!

    The dropper remote lever included is race face turbine, not the fox transfer.

  60. #2060
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    Just want to say thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread. The amount of information to hand is frankly ridiculous, and has been a huge help in whittling down what kind of build I wanted to go for. Picked it up last week (the day before an enduro race!) and could not be happier. Fox factory front & rear, Turq frame and Hunt Trailwide wheels.

    Cheers!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-yeti_sb130.jpg  


  61. #2061
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    They are based in the UK, prices are in 」

    The go-to custom decals shop for bikes in Europe and they make most of the stickers for EWS teams

    https://www.instagram.com/slikgraphics/
    https://www.slikgraphics.com
    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    mfa81...slik graphics makes these. They have standard color combos or you can request custom. Mine was custom: Yeti Turquoise and Fox Orange. I did the shock too. They are great to work with. I think based in Sweden
    Quote Originally Posted by uberscott View Post
    Just want to say thanks to everyone who's contributed to this thread. The amount of information to hand is frankly ridiculous, and has been a huge help in whittling down what kind of build I wanted to go for. Picked it up last week (the day before an enduro race!) and could not be happier. Fox factory front & rear, Turq frame and Hunt Trailwide wheels.

    Cheers!
    the 2020 almost non existent graphics is so nice! really like the stealth looks! beautiful bike!

  62. #2062
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    Thanks man!

    In my experience Slik Graphics are excellent to deal with - I got a set of blue Fox decals for the fork lowers, but now I'm torn as I rather like the orange ones! I'll leave them on until they get damaged. At this point it's more about getting out and riding the damn thing anyway

  63. #2063
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    I just acquired a used sb130lr. When I got it I ran the fork code thru Fox's website and it came back as a 170mm Grip2. The LR comes stock with a 160mm. So I'm 10mm over the base model. On the Yeti website they have a full tuning guide for HSC, LSC, etc...

    Q1- should I use the same numbers for the 170 fork? Would stroke even effect this?

    Q2- since I'm mostly a trail rider, I'll likely put in a 150mm airshaft and reserve the 170 for when I head up to Tahoe and the bike park. Same Question. Should I stick to the yeti specs for my baseline?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  64. #2064
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrkrft69 View Post
    I just acquired a used sb130lr. When I got it I ran the fork code thru Fox's website and it came back as a 170mm Grip2. The LR comes stock with a 160mm. So I'm 10mm over the base model. On the Yeti website they have a full tuning guide for HSC, LSC, etc...

    Q1- should I use the same numbers for the 170 fork? Would stroke even effect this?

    Q2- since I'm mostly a trail rider, I'll likely put in a 150mm airshaft and reserve the 170 for when I head up to Tahoe and the bike park. Same Question. Should I stick to the yeti specs for my baseline?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
    I just used the SB140 as my initial setup guide as it's got the same travel front & rear. Haven't had much of a chance to tinker with the setup yet but from initial rides it's a great starting place.

  65. #2065
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    Sorry, just read your post again and realised you've got a 170 not a 160. As it happens I also checked the recommended settings for the SB150. Comparing the 170 fork to the 160 fork, the settings are pretty much the same. Pressure is 2psi higher in the 170, but all the compression and rebound settings are the same.

  66. #2066
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    Quote Originally Posted by uberscott View Post
    Sorry, just read your post again and realised you've got a 170 not a 160. As it happens I also checked the recommended settings for the SB150. Comparing the 170 fork to the 160 fork, the settings are pretty much the same. Pressure is 2psi higher in the 170, but all the compression and rebound settings are the same.
    Thanks!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  67. #2067
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    Quality of light this time of year is awesome...Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_20190908_185236.jpg

  68. #2068
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrkrft69 View Post
    I just acquired a used sb130lr. When I got it I ran the fork code thru Fox's website and it came back as a 170mm Grip2. The LR comes stock with a 160mm.
    Is it a stock build or custom build? I have the orange Fox 36 and they only come in 170mm, so I needed to change the air shaft to 160mm (after going 150mm first). Checking the serial number obviously brings up the spec the fork left the factory.

    I would check the travel before assuming you do have 170mm. Just deflate the fork and check how much actual travel you have. Don't measure the stanshion as some of it isn't used (unlike Rockshox forks). Personally, I'd go with 160mm. It seems great on mine and I had 150mm before on the bike for 4 months.
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build

  69. #2069
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    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    Is it a stock build or custom build? I have the orange Fox 36 and they only come in 170mm, so I needed to change the air shaft to 160mm (after going 150mm first). Checking the serial number obviously brings up the spec the fork left the factory.

    I would check the travel before assuming you do have 170mm. Just deflate the fork and check how much actual travel you have. Don't measure the stanshion as some of it isn't used (unlike Rockshox forks). Personally, I'd go with 160mm. It seems great on mine and I had 150mm before on the bike for 4 months.
    Not completely sure on the build. I think it's custom but very close to stock. 780mm bars instead of 800. 30mm stem instead of 50mm. Both the same model as stock. Everything else appears to be stock.

    I did let the air out of the shock and compressed it. There appeared to be a little bit of pressure in it I couldn't "push" out at the bottom of the travel. So measuring that number accurately feels a little vague.

    So maybe it's been restroked to 160mm. I'll have to inspect it a little closer.

    How did you like it at 150mm? Think I may try it out for a while since it's a pretty cheap part to acquire and seems pretty easy to swap.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

  70. #2070
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrkrft69 View Post
    How did you like it at 150mm? Think I may try it out for a while since it's a pretty cheap part to acquire and seems pretty easy to swap.
    150mm was fine, but I prefer 160mm. It doesn't make the bike any less capable on flats and climbs (that I could tell), but it made a good difference descending.
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build

  71. #2071
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    Quote Originally Posted by roaringfork View Post
    Does anyone know what dropper lever they are spec-ing with 2020 models? Thanks!
    2020 models are coming with a Raceface turbine dropper lever, not the Fox as the 2019 had.

    edit: just noticed you already found this out!
    Last edited by crujonesisradd; 09-17-2019 at 08:01 AM. Reason: repetitive

  72. #2072
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    This is a 210x55 inline coil with a 2.25 400lbs spring.

    Do you guys think a longer spring like 2.5 or even 2.75 is better? Quite a bit of thread left on the coil.
    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-20190924_100839.jpg

  73. #2073
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    You could go with a 2.5 but the 2.25 is good too and even lighter. Technically it doesn稚 change anything.

  74. #2074
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    Are you sure it痴 a 400x2.25?

    Mine is only 7mm shorter than a 450x2.25 VALT ... so visually it should be longer than what you have on the picture!

  75. #2075
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    Yup 400 x 2.25. I was surprised how short it is on the coil.Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-20190924_103803.jpg

  76. #2076
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Mine is 119mm (free length). What about yours?!

  77. #2077
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    Quote Originally Posted by stolenteg View Post
    Yup 400 x 2.25. I was surprised how short it is on the coil.Click image for larger version. 

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    I like that Fox SLS with the Cane Creek IL. Does anyone know if the SLS is lighter than the Valt spring since the coils are not as tightly wound?
    SB165
    SB150
    SB130
    SB100
    FollowingV2
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    Farley 9.8

  78. #2078
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Mine is 119mm (free length). What about yours?!
    The spring is around the same lenght as yours

    Is it my coil? BAD1742 part # 210x55

  79. #2079
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    Hmmm. Strange! mine is the #BAD2394 but I don稚 think it would make a difference.

    The VALT 450x2.25 free length is 126mm and I get about 21mm of exposed thread bellow the preload.




  80. #2080
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    Quote Originally Posted by stolenteg View Post
    This is a 210x55 inline coil with a 2.25 400lbs spring.

    Do you guys think a longer spring like 2.5 or even 2.75 is better? Quite a bit of thread left on the coil.
    Did you call cane creek and ask their recommendations? I think they'd probably say do the 2.5 or 2.75 (not all weights are available in a given length). You want something longer than the stroke length 55/25.4=2.16 (which the 2.25 is) and no larger than a size that the manufacturer will specify. Generally the size recommended is not the size closest to the stroke length.

  81. #2081
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    It might be a silly question but you don稚 have too many turns of preload on that spring, right?!

  82. #2082
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    It might be a silly question but you don稚 have too many turns of preload on that spring, right?!
    Thats with maybe 1 1/2 turn of preload

    this is my first coil set up. i follow earlier post suggesting a 2.25 spring for this bike

  83. #2083
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    Quote Originally Posted by stolenteg View Post
    This is a 210x55 inline coil with a 2.25 400lbs spring.

    Do you guys think a longer spring like 2.5 or even 2.75 is better? Quite a bit of thread left on the coil.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I am running the same 210x55 shock (BAD1857) with a 2.25x450 spring. I ordered my shock directly from Cane Creek and spent some time reviewing the spring weight/length. After an internal discussion with their suspension technicians, Cane Creek recommended the the 2.25 spring.

    Since the CC springs are a linear rate (versus variable rate springs), you will will not gain any "performance" going to a longer spring. The key is the spring "weight" that will affect sag/feel/support of your ride.

    I believe Fox's SLS spring is a linear rate spring - and light weight (Super Lightweight Spring) compared to a conventional steel spring. I am noticing that you have more exposed thread that I do (measured from the front eyelet) - I have 2.5 turns for preload which about in the middle. The spring length is 126mm which @digev had mentioned.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  84. #2084
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Hmmm. Strange! mine is the #BAD2394 but I don稚 think it would make a difference.

    The VALT 450x2.25 free length is 126mm and I get about 21mm of exposed thread bellow the preload.



    My coil lenght is 115mm with 2 1/2 turn of preload. Took it for a 15 miles ride and everything feel ok so dont know why the sls spring is so short

  85. #2085
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    Quote Originally Posted by stolenteg View Post
    My coil lenght is 115mm with 2 1/2 turn of preload. Took it for a 15 miles ride and everything feel ok so dont know why the sls spring is so short
    That means your coil is about 10mm shorter that ours. When it doesn稚 change anything, I'll see if I can exchange it if I was you ... while it痴 still new.

    How do you like the coil compared to the DPX2?

  86. #2086
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    how would you sum up the change from air to coil on this frame? Did it improve certain ride characteristics that you noticed?

    Fox coil $
    CC inline $
    Bomber CR value
    DVO $?
    Avalanche $$
    11/6 too $$$
    RS ?

    which one would be the best for ride quality but not too $$


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  87. #2087
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post
    how would you sum up the change from air to coil on this frame? Did it improve certain ride characteristics that you noticed?

    Fox coil $
    CC inline $
    Bomber CR value
    DVO $?
    Avalanche $$
    11/6 too $$$
    RS ?

    which one would be the best for ride quality but not too $$
    - The CCIL coil is great and cheap (4 ways + climb switch) and by far the lightest
    - The Bomber CR is meant to be really good once tuned (by yourself or Avalanche) cheap too. No CS and only 2 ways (LSC/RBD)

    With a coil you値l get insane grip in corners and off camber and more confidence in the rough because it痴 a lot more supple / compliant. The mid stroke is superior to air shocks without having to compromise your settings.

    I really think smaller travel bikes such as the 130 greatly benefit from a coil shock because they can punch way above their weight! (The stumpy is another great example of how a "small" bike can rip with a coil shock)
    Last edited by digev; 09-25-2019 at 07:30 AM.

  88. #2088
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    I almost forgot. They climb better too because the rear wheel can track the ground without skipping any bumps, holes or roots. I honestly don稚 see any flip side to it. (After 3 years of use on 3 different bikes)

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    in pedaling do you feel difference? does it move so much? and if you get up on the pedals? the dpx2 is practically stopped

  90. #2090
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    The only time I use the climb switch is on the road ... otherwise on singletracks you leave it open and keep it open, so yes it moves a little but it痴 good for traction and confort ... it痴 not wallowing or bouncing ... it痴 a firm plush if you will, the bike keeps its dynamic.

    It reacts to the ground but not to the riders' input.

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  92. #2092
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post

    which one would be the best for ride quality but not too $$
    I bought a CC db coil IL just because it was over 50% off. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise. I think with coil suspension you can debate the best damper/shock but really it is just that coil gives a much different ride quality. That being said, my aim will eventually be to put an X2 on my sb130. I've had that shock on 4 different bikes and love it. I feel like the middle of the travel gives something extra that shocks like the dpx2 do not. I would like to try the new RS super deluxe ultimate as well. But the X2 is really a great piece of equipment. The only downside is it is not something that you can service at home (takes a lot of special tools, etc), so you end up sending it to Fox for $150/year to get it serviced for the season.

  93. #2093
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post






    Nice, thanks!
    SB165
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    FollowingV2
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    Farley 9.8

  94. #2094
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    Seem like the 2.25 sls spring is 120mm in lenght, mine was 115 mm with 2 1/2 of preload so seem about right?

    I didnt check to see what the lenght of the cc vault spring are.

  95. #2095
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post


    I think you just proved why there is no reason to buy a valt spring over the standard CC steel spring. If weight is your concern, a fox or other options would be the way to go.

  96. #2096
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    Well the vault spring is half the price of a sls but almost double weight

  97. #2097
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    Quote Originally Posted by fryeguy View Post
    Hi guys, I致e got an opportunity for a set of Enve wheels at a steep discount.
    Did you try speaking with Enve directly? It looks like the 730 rims are about 100g more carbon per rim than the 630s and still are only just over 500g per rim which is very light for a 29" rim. Plus 32 spokes is a plus in my book. The main difference I see other than a little weight is that the 730s use that rim strip thing that is supposed to help prevent flats/burps. I guess you could see that as a positive (reduced chance for flats, rim protection) or a negative (something else to mess with). But I agree with mfa81 that your riding would say M630 to me. They will probably be more forgiving/less stiff and be better for all around trail riding. Another way to look at it is, get the M630s as your 'fast' wheels and then build a set of strong alloy wheels for days when you're going to put on the full face helmet.

  98. #2098
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    Just did my first SI grease service. Zerk fittings make it so easy. I do wish they would design the housing so that both fittings are exposed on the SB130 without taking out the main pivot bolt.

  99. #2099
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I bought a CC db coil IL just because it was over 50% off. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise. I think with coil suspension you can debate the best damper/shock but really it is just that coil gives a much different ride quality. That being said, my aim will eventually be to put an X2 on my sb130. I've had that shock on 4 different bikes and love it. I feel like the middle of the travel gives something extra that shocks like the dpx2 do not. I would like to try the new RS super deluxe ultimate as well. But the X2 is really a great piece of equipment. The only downside is it is not something that you can service at home (takes a lot of special tools, etc), so you end up sending it to Fox for $150/year to get it serviced for the season.
    50 off? where?

  100. #2100
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by mastralbe View Post
    in pedaling do you feel difference? does it move so much? and if you get up on the pedals? the dpx2 is practically stopped
    The SB130 has one of the best anti-squat in its category, so coil or air ... the kinematic takes care of it (before the shock)... in short, no bobbing allowed going up or when force is applied to the pedals. Thanks Yeti!



    Talking about all that, there is a new website to analyse any bike痴 suspension kinematics. Pretty good to skip all the marketing acronyms and BS and go straight to point. Does it pedal well going uphill? Are the brakes impacting the suspensions? What痴 the best SAG for this bike? Is it better to use an air shock or a coil?

    Source: https://www.mbr.co.uk/news/andre-xtr-391055

    If anyone wants to order a full SB130 analysis and be a hero ... feel free

  101. #2101
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    anybody riding a small to confirm what size water bottle you fit in the frame?

    wondering if even a 20oz would fit, a 24oz definitely didn稚 fit on a demo bike but I didn稚 have another smaller bottle to try

  102. #2102
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    anybody riding a small to confirm what size water bottle you fit in the frame?

    wondering if even a 20oz would fit, a 24oz definitely didn稚 fit on a demo bike but I didn稚 have another smaller bottle to try
    there are short and long 20oz/24oz Bottles on the Market....
    the High of the Bottle should not exceed 21.5cm(8.46)...
    Measured with "Birzman Uncage" Bottlecage...

  103. #2103
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    ergowave

    my new sqlab 611 ergowave feels like a lounge chair

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_20190929_132442880-b.jpg

    in a dream castle

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_20190929_132838227.jpg

    on the rocks

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_20190929_124637964-c.jpg

    a really nice saddle. no more cracking with the nivo seatpost.

  104. #2104
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    Quote Originally Posted by zweigelt View Post
    there are short and long 20oz/24oz Bottles on the Market....
    the High of the Bottle should not exceed 21.5cm(8.46)...
    Measured with "Birzman Uncage" Bottlecage...
    the 24 oz bottles of fabric fit perfectly in a large frame. see above.
    its a very lightwight but sturdy solution with a maximum of volume to carry with.
    drinking in the saddle is possible, but I would not do so.

  105. #2105
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    anybody riding a small to confirm what size water bottle you fit in the frame?

    wondering if even a 20oz would fit, a 24oz definitely didn稚 fit on a demo bike but I didn稚 have another smaller bottle to try
    I could fit fidlock 600ml bottle

  106. #2106
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    So I致e pulled a trigger and placed a deposit at my LBS to order a 2020 Yeti SB130 Large Grey Frame.
    I知 planning on swapping most of components from my existing highest end custom built 2019 Yeti SB100.

    I had a chance to take a demo 2020 SB130 T1 build in Large size (same size as all of my previous Yeti bikes) on two 20 mile rides. First one was more of XC ride. Second one was on single Black Diamond 3 mile trail and a 4 mile long hand built flow trail with total of 3 fire road 1,000 elev climbs.
    On the descends when the suspension is fully open with Fox 36 Fit4 150mm and DPX2 rear shock the simply blew my mind how capable it is. My previous bike was 2017 Yeti SB6 with 160mm Lyrik and Fox X2 rear shock. I felt like the SB130 was DEFINITELY much faster, supper easy thru chatter areas, incredibly nimble, maybe just 5% less stable than the SB6.
    But if was racing down that single black Dimond trail and had an option to choose between SB6 or SB130, I would not even hesitate and pick the SB130.
    I was very impressed how the bike changes once I locked both suspensions on long fire road climbs. It almost felt like I知 on an E-Bike. Even though the demo bike came at 30.5 lbs with pedals, it was just as easy for me climb on it as on my 24 lbs Yeti SB100.

    I have a strong feeling that the questions that I have to you guys as owners of SB130 has already been asked before. But I would really appreciate your opinion and input for my next custom built of SB130.


    So I知 firm on building this bike with a 150mm Fox 36 fork.
    What route would you recommend me to go with and an additional comment why, would be very helpful.
    (1) Fox 36 Fit4 150mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe air piston
    (2) Fox 36 Grip2 150mm
    (3) Fox 36 Grip2 150mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe air piston


    And the options for rear suspension:
    (1) Stock Fox DPX2 210x52.5
    (2) Fox X2 210x52.5
    (3) Fox X2 210x55 (Lunch Ride 136.2mm Travel)

    As an additional note. I値l be selling my SB100 frame and will satay with one bike only which will be the SB130. Potentially in the near future I値l add a Transition Vanquish 29er Hardtail with 120mm Fox 34 SC fork as a fun bike.
    I値l be riding this bike on all possible trails around the Bay Area from long XC days on the saddle with 40 miles and 5,000 - 6,000 ft of elevation gain to riding all day on descends (approx 25-30 miles) with self climbing back to the top. And I might be able to escape once a year to ride something like Downieville.

    Please vote and add a comment if possible.

    Cheers!

  107. #2107
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    So I致e pulled a trigger and placed a deposit at my LBS to order a 2020 Yeti SB130 Large Grey Frame.
    I知 planning on swapping most of components from my existing highest end custom built 2019 Yeti SB100.

    I had a chance to take a demo 2020 SB130 T1 build in Large size (same size as all of my previous Yeti bikes) on two 20 mile rides. First one was more of XC ride. Second one was on single Black Diamond 3 mile trail and a 4 mile long hand built flow trail with total of 3 fire road 1,000 elev climbs.
    On the descends when the suspension is fully open with Fox 36 Fit4 150mm and DPX2 rear shock the simply blew my mind how capable it is. My previous bike was 2017 Yeti SB6 with 160mm Lyrik and Fox X2 rear shock. I felt like the SB130 was DEFINITELY much faster, supper easy thru chatter areas, incredibly nimble, maybe just 5% less stable than the SB6.
    But if was racing down that single black Dimond trail and had an option to choose between SB6 or SB130, I would not even hesitate and pick the SB130.
    I was very impressed how the bike changes once I locked both suspensions on long fire road climbs. It almost felt like I知 on an E-Bike. Even though the demo bike came at 30.5 lbs with pedals, it was just as easy for me climb on it as on my 24 lbs Yeti SB100.

    I have a strong feeling that the questions that I have to you guys as owners of SB130 has already been asked before. But I would really appreciate your opinion and input for my next custom built of SB130.


    So I知 firm on building this bike with a 150mm Fox 36 fork.
    What route would you recommend me to go with and an additional comment why, would be very helpful.
    (1) Fox 36 Fit4 150mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe air piston
    (2) Fox 36 Grip2 150mm
    (3) Fox 36 Grip2 150mm with Vorsprung Luftkappe air piston


    And the options for rear suspension:
    (1) Stock Fox DPX2 210x52.5
    (2) Fox X2 210x52.5
    (3) Fox X2 210x55 (Lunch Ride 136.2mm Travel)

    As an additional note. I値l be selling my SB100 frame and will satay with one bike only which will be the SB130. Potentially in the near future I値l add a Transition Vanquish 29er Hardtail with 120mm Fox 34 SC fork as a fun bike.
    I値l be riding this bike on all possible trails around the Bay Area from long XC days on the saddle with 40 miles and 5,000 - 6,000 ft of elevation gain to riding all day on descends (approx 25-30 miles) with self climbing back to the top. And I might be able to escape once a year to ride something like Downieville.

    Please vote and add a comment if possible.

    Cheers!
    Doesn稚 the Grip2 only come in 160mm and up?

  108. #2108
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    Quote Originally Posted by lagerboy View Post
    Doesn稚 the Grip2 only come in 160mm and up?
    Quote Originally Posted by lagerboy View Post
    Doesn稚 the Grip2 only come in 160mm and up?
    Stock Fox 36 does.
    But there are 2 ways to bypass it.
    The more expensive way is to get a Fox 36 Fit4 with 150mm travel and then upgrade the Charger Damper to Grip2 which is like $350 + LBS Labor.
    The cheaper way is to get a Fox 36 Grip2 with 160mm and replace the Air Shaft to 150mm which is about $45 + LBS Labor.

  109. #2109
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    Grip2 + Luftkape + X2 (55mm)

    They are the best options!

  110. #2110
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    I'm in the Bay Area...

    Grip 2 plus luftkappe or Fit4 with vorsprung tractive tuning plus luftkappe.

    Your riding weight may help determine which shock dpx2 or X2. Stroke increase 6mm is negligible.

    I recommend Michael at Fullflow Suspension in Auburn to help get you sorted.

    Curious what LBS are you using?

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    Instagram/Youtube- Dagonger
    Yeti Cycles sb45c/sb150

  111. #2111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    I'm in the Bay Area...

    Grip 2 plus luftkappe or Fit4 with vorsprung tractive tuning plus luftkappe.

    Your riding weight may help determine which shock dpx2 or X2. Stroke increase 6mm is negligible.

    I recommend Michael at Fullflow Suspension in Auburn to help get you sorted.

    Curious what LBS are you using?

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    Have not heard of Vorsprung *Fractive, but already looked it up. Looks very interesting.
    I'm about 185 lbs with all of my riding gear.
    Been using Rhytm Bikes in Oakland for a few years now. By far the best shop compared to over 20 other shops I've been before.

  112. #2112
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    Have not heard of Vorsprung *Fractive, but already looked it up. Looks very interesting.
    I'm about 185 lbs with all of my riding gear.
    Been using Rhytm Bikes in Oakland for a few years now. By far the best shop compared to over 20 other shops I've been before.
    Chad is a great guy and shop owner.

    Your weight is on the border of the dpx2. I would recommend riding it first. If you aren't happy with it for certain reasons due to your weight impacting it's tuning parameters, then a X2 or ohlins ttx air might be better options.

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
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    Yeti Cycles sb45c/sb150

  113. #2113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    Chad is a great guy and shop owner.

    Your weight is on the border of the dpx2. I would recommend riding it first. If you aren't happy with it for certain reasons due to your weight impacting it's tuning parameters, then a X2 or ohlins ttx air might be better options.

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    I am not following this statement are you saying at 185 hes to heavy for the dpx2?
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  114. #2114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    Chad is a great guy and shop owner.

    Your weight is on the border of the dpx2. I would recommend riding it first. If you aren't happy with it for certain reasons due to your weight impacting it's tuning parameters, then a X2 or ohlins ttx air might be better options.


    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    Does the X2 come in the same size (210 x 52.5)? I didn稚 think so...

  115. #2115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    I am not following this statement are you saying at 185 hes to heavy for the dpx2?
    Heavier riders can bottom out shocks like a dpx2. To remedy that most put in bigger spacers to add progression and more air psi. This remedy's the bottom out and blow thru on travel, but negatively affects begining stroke aka small bump. Often rebound damping isn't enough to keep it from being to fast at increase progression and psi...

    X2 and ttx air or coil can help overcome those factors for some riders in some cases....

    Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
    Instagram/Youtube- Dagonger
    Yeti Cycles sb45c/sb150

  116. #2116
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    Grip2 + Luftkape + X2 (55mm)

    They are the best options!
    Vorsprung Fractive Tuning system for Fit4 forks provides BETTER damping than the Grip2 dampers at a fraction of the price ($120 CAN vs. $300+ for Grip2 damper). That one is a no-brainer if you buy a complete bike with the Fit4 damper fork.

    The Luftkape is a bandaid fix that jacks up the negative air volume, sucks down the fork travel and still doesn't provide enough mid-stroke support for really aggro riders. Enter the RUNT from Diaz Suspension to fix the 36's air spring problem. A more expensive but more effective fix.

    The only thing I'll agree with in your post is the 55mm stroke X2 BUT an Avy tuned DPX2 with Craig's SSD mod and HSB adjuster will give more than adequate performance for 99% of riders at a fraction of that cost (and Craig will take out the silly spacer to make it 55mm stroke anyway so... for $289 the best option IMHO).

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  117. #2117
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Vorsprung Fractive Tuning system for Fit 4 forks provides BETTER damping than the Grip2 dampers at a fraction of the price ($120 CAN vs. $300+ for Grip2 damper). That one is a no-brainer if you buy the complete bike with the Fit4 damper.

    The Luftkape is a bandaid fix that jacks up the negative air volume, sucks down the fork travel and still doesn't provide enough mid-stroke support for really aggro riders. Enter the RUNT from Diaz Suspension to fix the 36's air spring problem. A more expensive but more effective fix.

    The only thing I'll agree with in your post is the 55mm stroke X2.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    That wasn稚 part of the options listed above, so what痴 the point of having a list if you pick stuff outside of it. Otherwise there痴 even better options ... yep, agreed!

  118. #2118
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    Hi All,

    I am doubting between the Yeti SB130 and Occam as my new ride to replace my current Orbea Rallon.

    The only real downside for the yeti is the PF BB, or should I not worry about this?

    Then Two questions for which I was looking for an answer in this thread:
    - I am 1.70 and was aiming to pick a medium (seattube on S would be very short) and putting a 35 mm stem on it. Still the reach increases ~2.5 cm compared to my current bike. Does the length gets countered by the much steeper seattube, what are the general experiences with the progressive geometry?
    - second question, I want to put a RS Lyrik or Pike on the frame. But see this guy is offered in 37 ,44 or 46 mm offset where Yeti recommens 44. Would it be pushing the boundaries too much when putting a 37 offset fork?

  119. #2119
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    Quote Originally Posted by K2-man View Post
    Hi All,

    I am doubting between the Yeti SB130 and Occam as my new ride to replace my current Orbea Rallon.

    The only real downside for the yeti is the PF BB, or should I not worry about this?

    Then Two questions for which I was looking for an answer in this thread:
    - I am 1.70 and was aiming to pick a medium (seattube on S would be very short) and putting a 35 mm stem on it. Still the reach increases ~2.5 cm compared to my current bike. Does the length gets countered by the much steeper seattube, what are the general experiences with the progressive geometry?
    - second question, I want to put a RS Lyrik or Pike on the frame. But see this guy is offered in 37 ,44 or 46 mm offset where Yeti recommens 44. Would it be pushing the boundaries too much when putting a 37 offset fork?
    The one time I had an issue with a PF bottom bracket was due to an improper installation. I only have a few hundred miles now on my 130 but haven't had any problems with the BB.

    1. For sizing, it seems like you'd be on a small, especially if you have longer legs for your height. For proper fit, you'd end up moving the saddle back to compensate for the steeper STA. Not everyone follows that, but I like it when my knees are pain free. The extra reach out of the saddle is to help with being more forward on the bike instead of hanging off the back of it. It does require a little more weight on the bars around turns to keep good front wheel traction. I've had some close calls a couple of times when I got lazy. Lowering the stack helped too.

    2. You'd probably want to stick to as close to the 44mm offset as possible for the fork. It's a good blend of low speed turning for the switchbacks and not twitchy at high speeds. 37mm might feel too sluggish.

  120. #2120
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    Thanks for your reply, I feel that if I go with the small I would not make optimal use of the new Geo by sliding the saddle to the back. But I guess I should really try to find a test bike before making the decision :-)

  121. #2121
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    Quote Originally Posted by K2-man View Post
    Hi All,

    I am doubting between the Yeti SB130 and Occam as my new ride to replace my current Orbea Rallon.

    The only real downside for the yeti is the PF BB, or should I not worry about this?

    Then Two questions for which I was looking for an answer in this thread:
    - I am 1.70 and was aiming to pick a medium (seattube on S would be very short) and putting a 35 mm stem on it. Still the reach increases ~2.5 cm compared to my current bike. Does the length gets countered by the much steeper seattube, what are the general experiences with the progressive geometry?
    - second question, I want to put a RS Lyrik or Pike on the frame. But see this guy is offered in 37 ,44 or 46 mm offset where Yeti recommens 44. Would it be pushing the boundaries too much when putting a 37 offset fork?
    First, I never ride Orbea Rallon/Occam thus no comment on that.

    No problem with PF BB. Where I come from - humid, wet and muddy no issue on the BB. I transferred the CK from my previous SB4.5C to the SB130 and I think >1k miles on the previous bike.

    1. I am 1.69 and riding size S with 35mm stem. Saddle bang in the middle. Feel centered on the bike.

    2. Ran 42 offset Lyrik few weeks and I didnt feel much of a different. Yeah i think u need to stay close to 44 offset recommended by Yeti.

    Happy trails!

  122. #2122
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    for rockshoxs forks get a 42mm offset! they only come in 42mm or 51mm offset for 29 wheels

  123. #2123
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    FYI

    Hot tip for @ridefoxbike grip2 owners-don稚 run your high-speed compression more than about 18 clicks out from the closed/hard stop position, your compression shims will be floating off the piston completely!
    Source: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzb8xyFHXxc/?hl=en

  124. #2124
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    Hi.

    The frame arrives soon.

    Ligth headset 41/52?

    I read:

    -Chris King 150 gr
    -Cane Creek 100 gr
    -Hope ソ?ソ?ソ
    -.......

  125. #2125
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    Good call, that痴 where you値l save the most weight.

  126. #2126
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    Why install a 150 gr headset if it works the same as a 100 gr headset?

    50 + 50 + 50 + 50 + 50 +.......

  127. #2127
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    Absolutely

  128. #2128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    Hi.

    The frame arrives soon.

    Ligth headset 41/52?

    I read:

    -Chris King 150 gr
    -Cane Creek 100 gr
    -Hope ソ?ソ?ソ
    -.......
    Lightest Headset I've found was Cane Creek AER Series II.
    https://www.canecreek.com/product/aer-series-ii/

    I've installed it on my 24 lbs Yeti SB100 and this week same one going to be installed on 2020 SB130 frame that has just arrived yesterday.

    Here's the part # that will fit SB130:

    Top w/ Short Cover: IS41/28.6/H9 - Black - BAA0957K
    Top w/ Tall Cover: IS41/28.6/H15 - Black - BAA0956K

    Bottom: IS52/40 - BAA1044

    Actual Scaled Weight for Top w/ Short Cover + Bottom: 67g

    AER Spacers also will be lighter even then the carbon ones.


    Cheers!

  129. #2129
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    I've just opened up today my 2020 SB130 Frame in Anthracite (Grey) color / Size Large.
    Actual weight of the frame with stock DPX2 shock, rear axle, and seat clamp is 3280g (7.231 lbs)
    Not a superlight frame.
    My SB100 in Black (Raw) / Size Large is 2,682g.
    My 2017 SB6c Green / Size Large was 3,165g.
    It was obvious that the SB130 will be heavier than SB100, but I did not expect it to be even heavier than the SB6c.

  130. #2130
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    The weights I wrote yesterday are incorrect

    Real weights headset:

    Chris King = 108 gr
    CC Forty = 104 gr
    CC Hellbender = 91,20 gr
    CC 110 = 87,30 gr
    CC Aer = 67 gr

    Regards

  131. #2131
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    Chris King - Cane Creek AER = 43 gr.......

  132. #2132
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    Lightest Headset I've found was Cane Creek AER Series II.
    https://www.canecreek.com/product/aer-series-ii/

    I've installed it on my 24 lbs Yeti SB100 and this week same one going to be installed on 2020 SB130 frame that has just arrived yesterday.

    Here's the part # that will fit SB130:

    Top w/ Short Cover: IS41/28.6/H9 - Black - BAA0957K
    Top w/ Tall Cover: IS41/28.6/H15 - Black - BAA0956K

    Bottom: IS52/40 - BAA1044

    Actual Scaled Weight for Top w/ Short Cover + Bottom: 67g

    AER Spacers also will be lighter even then the carbon ones.


    Cheers!
    Thank you, I bought CC AER

  133. #2133
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    Can you guys running x2's post your weight and settings, just bought a used one off a ripmo! aggro 165lb rider dude asking.
    thanks!


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  134. #2134
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post
    Can you guys running x2's post your weight and settings, just bought a used one off a ripmo! aggro 165lb rider dude asking.
    thanks!
    You should also ask for the 4 digit code, because the compression/rebound stack might be different. So the same settings might not give the same results

    Ex: DL2Q >> https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.p...ref=findbycode

    2018 Factory Series FLOAT X2
    2018, FLOAT X2, F-S, K, 2pos-Adj, Ibis, Ripmo, 210, 55, 0.3 Spacer x2, CM, Neutral, STD Logo

  135. #2135
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    Looking at perhaps picking up an SB130 T1 eventually. Does anyone know if the Fox 36 Fit4 damper is the newly updated 2020 Fit4 with the 8mm damper shaft? Or the previous generation still?
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  136. #2136
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    I had a fall and skipped paint on the fram. Do you know pantone code or where to get paint to repair?

    Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk

  137. #2137
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    yeti has touch up paint on their website

  138. #2138
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkom View Post
    I had a fall and skipped paint on the fram. Do you know pantone code or where to get paint to repair?

    Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk
    You can purchase Touch Up Paint directly from Yeti's website:
    https://www.yeticycles.com/gear/parts?filters=13&page=1

    Good Luck!

  139. #2139
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Looking at perhaps picking up an SB130 T1 eventually. Does anyone know if the Fox 36 Fit4 damper is the newly updated 2020 Fit4 with the 8mm damper shaft? Or the previous generation still?
    Not 100% sure if it's the 2019 or the 2020 fork...
    But if you have a good relationship with your LBS and they're reasonable, you can build a custom bike with all of the parts that you want and it'll be cheaper for you than getting a complete kit from Yeti.
    My LBS starting to build my 2020 SB130 with Fox 36 Grip2 with 150mm Air Shaft instead of the stock 160mm. And they're charging me 15% less than the stock 2020 Fox 36 Fit4.

  140. #2140
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    You can purchase Touch Up Paint directly from Yeti's website:
    https://www.yeticycles.com/gear/parts?filters=13&page=1

    Good Luck!
    I had already seen it, but, with shipping to Spain it costs 45$ !!!

    Other option?

    Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk

  141. #2141
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    Not 100% sure if it's the 2019 or the 2020 fork...
    But if you have a good relationship with your LBS and they're reasonable, you can build a custom bike with all of the parts that you want and it'll be cheaper for you than getting a complete kit from Yeti.
    My LBS starting to build my 2020 SB130 with Fox 36 Grip2 with 150mm Air Shaft instead of the stock 160mm. And they're charging me 15% less than the stock 2020 Fox 36 Fit4.
    Eh, I just buy build kits to make things easier. And I can sell my old bike complete, which is easier than selling just a frame most of the time. The closest Yeti dealer to me is 3 hours away. So I just order online. Even though they 'build and tune' the bikes, I still do a once over to make sure everything is torqued to spec and brakes are bled properly. Often times, I have to completely re-tune the derailleurs and retorque bolts because it's too tight or too loose. I just wish they'd assemble and send it out to me. I can do the job of their 'bike builders' at home properly.

    The T1 Turq has everything I want, really. Shimano 12S XT. I really, really wanna try out the Shimano 12S. Only changes I'm going to make are the saddle, 203 rotors front and rear, and carbon wheels and tougher tires, which I already have.. The Fit4 is a pretty good fork. But if it comes with the newly updated one, it'd be nice to see if I can tell any difference.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  142. #2142
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    Looking to replace my QR rear axle with non-QR

    Having a little trouble figuring out what I need. The axle that's in it is 172mm. Can't find that length in non-QR

    What I think will work:

    12 x 148 E-thru 170mm

    Am I right?

    Looking at the Maxle Stealth from SRAM or similar.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

  143. #2143
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    yeti sell axles, I知 surprised yours is a qr you need a 12mm x 172 mm x 1.5 thread

    robert axle makes one, ibis shimano axle is another option but the yeti one costs only $20 that痴 what I壇 buy

  144. #2144
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrkrft69 View Post
    Looking to replace my QR rear axle with non-QR

    Having a little trouble figuring out what I need. The axle that's in it is 172mm. Can't find that length in non-QR

    What I think will work:

    12 x 148 E-thru 170mm

    Am I right?

    Looking at the Maxle Stealth from SRAM or similar.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

    The one you're looking for called Shimano E-Thru 148x12mm

    There's a very light one made by Carbon-Ti Brand. It's only 32g.
    Rear Axles Bike E-Thru
    That's what I currently have on my SB100 and I just moved it from my SB100 to my new SB130 frame.

    I purchased mine from Fair Wheel Bikes website:
    https://fairwheelbikes.com/carbon-ti...ear-thru-axle/


    Cheers!

  145. #2145
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Eh, I just buy build kits to make things easier. And I can sell my old bike complete, which is easier than selling just a frame most of the time. The closest Yeti dealer to me is 3 hours away. So I just order online. Even though they 'build and tune' the bikes, I still do a once over to make sure everything is torqued to spec and brakes are bled properly. Often times, I have to completely re-tune the derailleurs and retorque bolts because it's too tight or too loose. I just wish they'd assemble and send it out to me. I can do the job of their 'bike builders' at home properly.

    The T1 Turq has everything I want, really. Shimano 12S XT. I really, really wanna try out the Shimano 12S. Only changes I'm going to make are the saddle, 203 rotors front and rear, and carbon wheels and tougher tires, which I already have.. The Fit4 is a pretty good fork. But if it comes with the newly updated one, it'd be nice to see if I can tell any difference.

    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Eh, I just buy build kits to make things easier. And I can sell my old bike complete, which is easier than selling just a frame most of the time. The closest Yeti dealer to me is 3 hours away. So I just order online. Even though they 'build and tune' the bikes, I still do a once over to make sure everything is torqued to spec and brakes are bled properly. Often times, I have to completely re-tune the derailleurs and retorque bolts because it's too tight or too loose. I just wish they'd assemble and send it out to me. I can do the job of their 'bike builders' at home properly.

    The T1 Turq has everything I want, really. Shimano 12S XT. I really, really wanna try out the Shimano 12S. Only changes I'm going to make are the saddle, 203 rotors front and rear, and carbon wheels and tougher tires, which I already have.. The Fit4 is a pretty good fork. But if it comes with the newly updated one, it'd be nice to see if I can tell any difference.

    SB130 T1 was the one I had as a demo from my LBS. Had a chance get on 2 rides on it with a total of 38 miles and 5,000 elev.
    In general I'm not a huge fan of Shimano products, but not a hater either. And the T1 kit comes with XT 4 piston brakes and XT 1-12 Drivetrain. But still, I really enjoyed the bike and Shimano stuff did not bother. On my last 3 bikes I've installed SRAM Eagle drivetrain and I find it a bit smoother on the shifting and a bit more precise compared to Shimano 1x12. But there's one significant advantage on Shimano 1x12 drivetrain that I've noticed, is that you can still shift pretty easy under heavy load of pedaling and that's not something that Eagle can do.

    Large frame that I demoed came at 30 lbs before pedals, but the bike climbed maybe 10% slower than my 24 lbs SB100 and descending on it was just an enormous FUN compared to my SB100. So, SO SO MUCH Confidence Inspiring !!!
    Fox 36 Fit4 that came on the 2020 SB130 Demo was phenomenal with zero complains, but my LBS recomened me to go with Grip2 for the same price.
    The biggest thing I loved about this bike is how comfortable and not exhausting at all it was on long fire road climbs and 10+ min descends.

    I'm going to throw 34mm internal NEXTIE Carbon wheels with i9 Hydra hubs on mine as well. 180mm Front and Rear SRAM Centerline X rotors should be plenty for me, since I'm about 185lbs with all of my gear and I'll be installing SRAM Code RSC brakes on mine. Will be rolling on Maxxis Dissectors 29x2.4 Front and Rear as well. Ones I tried these tires I could confedntly say "Bye, Bye DHR II". Dissector rolls faster than DHR II, Grip, Break and Corner better than DHR II.
    I strongly beleive that the Assegai will replace the DHF on all Enduro bikes and some trail bikes. When the Dissector will replace the DHR II and Aggressor on Trail and Enduro bikes.

    Also I recall that JensonUSA and Fanatik Bikes fully assemble the bikes and they ship it with just the front wheel not attached. But you should double check that.

    Ether way T1 is an awesome kit and SB130 phenomenal bike !!! So you can't go wrong.


    Cheers

  146. #2146
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    Quote Originally Posted by digev View Post
    You should also ask for the 4 digit code, because the compression/rebound stack might be different. So the same settings might not give the same results

    Ex: DL2Q >> https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.p...ref=findbycode

    2018 Factory Series FLOAT X2
    2018, FLOAT X2, F-S, K, 2pos-Adj, Ibis, Ripmo, 210, 55, 0.3 Spacer x2, CM, Neutral, STD Logo
    This is exactly the code on the shock I have DL2Q. IS that bad or good?


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  147. #2147
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    Quote Originally Posted by SHAHEEB View Post
    This is exactly the code on the shock I have DL2Q. IS that bad or good?
    It痴 good

  148. #2148
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    3rd day in Finale Ligure with the SB130, the bike is coping great no matter the track. For those who know, you could come with your DH bike and be happy ... very fast, loose, super rocky, jumps, compressions! Even ォDH menサ feels great ... You gotta love this "trail" bike hahaha

    Last edited by digev; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:06 AM.

  149. #2149
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    SB130 T1 was the one I had as a demo from my LBS. Had a chance get on 2 rides on it with a total of 38 miles and 5,000 elev.
    In general I'm not a huge fan of Shimano products, but not a hater either. And the T1 kit comes with XT 4 piston brakes and XT 1-12 Drivetrain. But still, I really enjoyed the bike and Shimano stuff did not bother. On my last 3 bikes I've installed SRAM Eagle drivetrain and I find it a bit smoother on the shifting and a bit more precise compared to Shimano 1x12. But there's one significant advantage on Shimano 1x12 drivetrain that I've noticed, is that you can still shift pretty easy under heavy load of pedaling and that's not something that Eagle can do.

    Large frame that I demoed came at 30 lbs before pedals, but the bike climbed maybe 10% slower than my 24 lbs SB100 and descending on it was just an enormous FUN compared to my SB100. So, SO SO MUCH Confidence Inspiring !!!
    Fox 36 Fit4 that came on the 2020 SB130 Demo was phenomenal with zero complains, but my LBS recomened me to go with Grip2 for the same price.
    The biggest thing I loved about this bike is how comfortable and not exhausting at all it was on long fire road climbs and 10+ min descends.

    I'm going to throw 34mm internal NEXTIE Carbon wheels with i9 Hydra hubs on mine as well. 180mm Front and Rear SRAM Centerline X rotors should be plenty for me, since I'm about 185lbs with all of my gear and I'll be installing SRAM Code RSC brakes on mine. Will be rolling on Maxxis Dissectors 29x2.4 Front and Rear as well. Ones I tried these tires I could confedntly say "Bye, Bye DHR II". Dissector rolls faster than DHR II, Grip, Break and Corner better than DHR II.
    I strongly beleive that the Assegai will replace the DHF on all Enduro bikes and some trail bikes. When the Dissector will replace the DHR II and Aggressor on Trail and Enduro bikes.

    Also I recall that JensonUSA and Fanatik Bikes fully assemble the bikes and they ship it with just the front wheel not attached. But you should double check that.

    Ether way T1 is an awesome kit and SB130 phenomenal bike !!! So you can't go wrong.


    Cheers
    Thanks for the insight! I much prefer Shimano over SRAM. I do have the XO1 Race kit on my SB100 I don't have any real complains. I just dislike that the feel of the upshift lever gets lighter and lighter as you go down the cassette, while Shimano feels the same all the time. As far as brakes, I'll always have 4 pistons from now on. I put Guide Ultimates on my SB100 and put 180/180 rotors and that's been perfect for it. I'm excited to try out the new generation XT brakes, but if it's not up to snuff, I'll replace the calipers with Saints, which is something people have been doing for a long time. $200+ for 2 Saint calipers and banjo bolts is a lot cheaper than Code RSCs front and rear. I've got a set of Crank Bros Synthesis E11s with Hydra hubs going on the SB130. Tires will be WTB Verdict front, and WTB Judge rear. Not the lightest of tires, but I know they grip amazingly and are nearly indestructible.

    Riding my SB100 always puts a smile on my face. It just 'feels' like a special bike. I'm really hoping that the SB130 feels the same. And I feel that the T1 Turq build represents the best value for Yeti builds, as they don't skimp on parts spec. You get a full XT groupset and brakes. I mean, Yetis aren't exactly teeming with value, but Turq builds are better this year. What I dislike about this year's builds are the lower spec wheelsets and the move to 170mm cranks. The XM1501s are phenomenal wheels. I have a set of E1700s and M1700s myself, and they are great wheels. But XM1501s are lighter and stronger. I prefer longer cranks due to the extra leverage they provide. Not that big of a deal. But the BBs are so low that I see why Yeti chose to go with shorter cranks.

    Can't wait to get my bike. I'm hoping to get it by Friday at the earliest.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  150. #2150
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    Quick ride report and question/advice needed....apologies for a long post.

    I rode Captain Ahab in Moab for the first time on the SB130 today. I致e ridden this trail 25 plus times over the years on a Yeti 95c, Yeti SB5, Gen 3 Nomad, and most recently a SB 5.5. Was really excited to see how the 130 stacked up.

    First off...I just swapped my stock 50mm stem that came on a 2020 T1 build for a 40mm stem and I really prefer the shorter stem. This was the standard length on the original builds and I feel that Yeti truly designed the bike around this stem length.

    Climbing...the 130 climbs better than any other bike I致e owned and motored right up the ledges and chunk of Ahab. Low bb takes some timing, but I知 adjusting. I知 not willing to go to 170mm cranks....I致e tried and they hurt my knees and I prefer the leverage with 175mm.

    Descending...the bike did great, but not the best I致e ridden on this trail. I have to disagree that this bike does everything better than the Yeti 5.5. My 5.5 had a little bit more smash and go personality on the ledges, drops, and steep slabs of Ahab. The 130 did fine, but I had to be a little more selective in picking lines and it wasn稚 quite the autopilot feeling my 5.5 had. It wasn稚 huge, but maybe a roughly 10% decrease in downhill confidence. What really surprised me was the feeling in steep slabs and successive steep ledge drops...the 130 is pretty damn slack, but I still felt just a bit too far over the front. I know the new forward-centric geo helps to weight the front-end better, but there is a time and place where that can feel a little sketch. This front-planted geo and steep seat tube also makes this bike a little harder to pop the front end up. Manuels off ledges take more work and timing...Anyone else having more difficulty popping wheelies on large wheelbase and steep seat tubed bikes?

    My 5.5 had offset bushings, 160 mm fork and X2 in the rear. My 130 is the stock 150mm fork and dpx2 130mm.

    So, my question. Can I get the 130 to have that same unflappable feeling on fast chunky trails like Ahab? I知 tossing around a few scenarios:

    1) Maybe I need to spend more time tuning the front end to provide more support and keep me higher in travel....countering that too far forward feeling on steeps.

    2) Maybe I need to 斗unch ride the bike and go to 160mm front to really compare to my old 5.5 and unlock a more aggressive downhill demeanor. Maybe run a coil shock.

    3) Maybe it痴 just a 130mm trail bike through and through. You can only change the character of a bike like this so much. If I really want that total smasher feel, I should look to a bigger bike.

    Thoughts or advise would be awesome. All in all...combining up and down, the bike is killer. Just missing a little of that extra confidence on the steeper tracks.

  151. #2151
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    I have a 160 front with push coils and cushcore. That wouldve been perfect for the trail that youre riding

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  152. #2152
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Just missing a little of that extra confidence on the steeper tracks.
    Bumping the fork to 160 and swapping the shock for a more capable one will definitely help you bring the 5.5 feel/confidence back.

    You can also play with spacers under the stem.

  153. #2153
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    mullet setup rips pretty good, it put some party back into the bike as the ride felt a little bland honestly, think the HA is around 64.5? about to try x2.
    tires make a big difference

    fun little ride


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  154. #2154
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Quick ride report and question/advice needed....apologies for a long post.

    I rode Captain Ahab in Moab for the first time on the SB130 today. I致e ridden this trail 25 plus times over the years on a Yeti 95c, Yeti SB5, Gen 3 Nomad, and most recently a SB 5.5. Was really excited to see how the 130 stacked up.

    First off...I just swapped my stock 50mm stem that came on a 2020 T1 build for a 40mm stem and I really prefer the shorter stem. This was the standard length on the original builds and I feel that Yeti truly designed the bike around this stem length.

    Climbing...the 130 climbs better than any other bike I致e owned and motored right up the ledges and chunk of Ahab. Low bb takes some timing, but I知 adjusting. I知 not willing to go to 170mm cranks....I致e tried and they hurt my knees and I prefer the leverage with 175mm.

    Descending...the bike did great, but not the best I致e ridden on this trail. I have to disagree that this bike does everything better than the Yeti 5.5. My 5.5 had a little bit more smash and go personality on the ledges, drops, and steep slabs of Ahab. The 130 did fine, but I had to be a little more selective in picking lines and it wasn稚 quite the autopilot feeling my 5.5 had. It wasn稚 huge, but maybe a roughly 10% decrease in downhill confidence. What really surprised me was the feeling in steep slabs and successive steep ledge drops...the 130 is pretty damn slack, but I still felt just a bit too far over the front. I know the new forward-centric geo helps to weight the front-end better, but there is a time and place where that can feel a little sketch. This front-planted geo and steep seat tube also makes this bike a little harder to pop the front end up. Manuels off ledges take more work and timing...Anyone else having more difficulty popping wheelies on large wheelbase and steep seat tubed bikes?

    My 5.5 had offset bushings, 160 mm fork and X2 in the rear. My 130 is the stock 150mm fork and dpx2 130mm.

    So, my question. Can I get the 130 to have that same unflappable feeling on fast chunky trails like Ahab? I知 tossing around a few scenarios:

    1) Maybe I need to spend more time tuning the front end to provide more support and keep me higher in travel....countering that too far forward feeling on steeps.

    2) Maybe I need to 斗unch ride the bike and go to 160mm front to really compare to my old 5.5 and unlock a more aggressive downhill demeanor. Maybe run a coil shock.

    3) Maybe it痴 just a 130mm trail bike through and through. You can only change the character of a bike like this so much. If I really want that total smasher feel, I should look to a bigger bike.

    Thoughts or advise would be awesome. All in all...combining up and down, the bike is killer. Just missing a little of that extra confidence on the steeper tracks.
    1. You might be right about diving into your fork travel on descents, so a little more LSC might help.

    2. Setting the fork at 160 will be a noticeable improvement for steeps/ You can also clip the travel spacer out of the rear shock to add 6-7mm more travel.

    3. It is and it isn't. The geo is more on the enduro side of things. It feels more like it's half way between that and trail for me. Just really as much of a "one bike" as it comes. It's definitely not the all out plow bike. I've also had a 5.5. What I find is that if my body position is off on the sb130, I can definitely feel it. Heels down and bars weighted, it can move pretty well. If your top priority is only all out speed though and not all around ability, I'd look for a bigger bike.

    I'm going to extend my fork to 160mm and then plan on going with an X2 to try it out.

  155. #2155
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    Cane Creek db il NEW in box 210x52.5, 450lb spring, mounting hardware. $300 shipped. Decided to stick with air and eventually switch to an X2. PM me if interested.Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_20191014_094231.jpg

  156. #2156
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    Sounds like bumping to 160 up front, and the extra 7mm in the rear, might be the ticket.

    I've been a 2 bike guy for years and thought the SB130 might be the one bike solution.
    Looks like I'm drifting back to 2 bikes as the ideal setup. I ride a real diverse mix of trails. From Moab, Sedona, and some bike park laps to after work trails in Durango that are pretty fast, smooth hardpack (Phils World, 18 Rd Fruita, etc.).

    Now the dilemma...

    Do I build up the 130 to be a short(er) travel Enduro build and then get a truly short travel (100 mm) lightweight trail bike for smoother undulating trails (SB 100 or Blur LT with a Fox 34 120mm step cast fork)

    or...

    Trim down the SB 130 to the lighter side (really just leave at 150mm fork, 130mm rear, run lighter rubber and super light wheelset) and then get a proper 160/170mm big bike....Megatower, etc.

    First world problems....

  157. #2157
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Sounds like bumping to 160 up front, and the extra 7mm in the rear, might be the ticket.
    The extra 7mm won稚 change a thing, changing the rear shock will.

  158. #2158
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    Air (X2) or Coil....what's your preference?

  159. #2159
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    The X2 is great, but the ヨhlins TTX and the CaneCreek DB are also very good air shock options.

    Personally, I find the CaneCreek DB Coil inline + SLS spring to tick all the boxes and to be a perfect match.
    The big plus for a lot of people is that you don稚 have to fiddle with the settings because the base settings (factory) are the best for the SB130 (believe me I've tried so many configurations for months on so many type of terrains). In short, stick this shock to your bike and go ride with the best settings possible without any hassle.

    FYI: I'm 72kg, that translates to about 78/80 ready to ride and the 400lbs spring feels super super good everywhere. I had a 450lbs before and it was too firm (kinda new that from the get go).

    Either way, it will make your bike a lot more capable everywhere.

  160. #2160
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post

    Do I build up the 130 to be a short(er) travel Enduro build and then get a truly short travel (100 mm) lightweight trail bike for smoother undulating trails (SB 100 or Blur LT with a Fox 34 120mm step cast fork)

    or...

    Trim down the SB 130 to the lighter side (really just leave at 150mm fork, 130mm rear, run lighter rubber and super light wheelset) and then get a proper 160/170mm big bike....Megatower, etc.

    First world problems....
    Get rid of the 130 and buy a sb150 and have a second set of lighter wheels with lighter tires (like specialized grid casing) for less aggressive trail riding. I have both bikes and could live without my 130 but wouldn't give up my 150. I've even thought of getting rid of the 130...just not there yet. Personally I think the 130 is very solidly in the trail category and the 150 is much better all around, from trail to park. The idea of a 100mm bike makes no sense to me because 130mm bikes sacrifice minimal speed but a 100mm in a place like Durango....no thanks.

  161. #2161
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    Interesting foggnm, thanks.

    Not sure how familiar you are with trails in and around the town of Durango. Many folks here ripping around on hardtails and short travel bikes. Many of the local trails are rolling xc-type trails that are just plain boring on big bikes (even with lighter wheels and rubber). For me to hang with my faster xc riding friends, it's nice to be on a <25-26 lb bike. SB100 is probably the perfect bike for Durango "in-town" trails (not talking about high country rides and the like).

  162. #2162
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Get rid of the 130 and buy a sb150 and have a second set of lighter wheels with lighter tires (like specialized grid casing) for less aggressive trail riding. I have both bikes and could live without my 130 but wouldn't give up my 150. I've even thought of getting rid of the 130...just not there yet. Personally I think the 130 is very solidly in the trail category and the 150 is much better all around, from trail to park. The idea of a 100mm bike makes no sense to me because 130mm bikes sacrifice minimal speed but a 100mm in a place like Durango....no thanks.
    I致e been contemplating selling my 130 and going with a 150 instead. I planned to run the 150 with a 160 fork though. I致e been told you don稚 really give up much going up to the 150 over the 130 and the guys I致e talked with said it was a no brainer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Personally I think the 130 is very solidly in the trail category and the 150 is much better all around, from trail to park.
    I believe you can do everything with the 130, because I do ... I crossed the Alps with it, been to bike parks, done some endurance races over multiple days, raced local and national enduros, go up and down the mountains on long loops multiple times per week ... I'm literally just back from Finale Ligure after 3days of massive shredding (Not really family-trail-ish) and this bike has never shown any signs of weakness. During all these different adventures, I've never wished for more this or less that. it's a ripper!

    The range of use is huge.

    Disclaimer: coil front + rear + CushCore XC (because it makes such a difference to what you can do with this bike)

  164. #2164
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    Hey stolenteg and Digev - Im keen on the DB COil IL fox sls setup myself. Thanks for the info so far... Couple of questions.

    • How is the end of the stroke - does it ramp up enough? I know that the sb130 isnt the most progressive of designs so keen to get some feedback
    • What riding weight are you / spring rate have you ended up on?
    • Any more pics of your bike rocking the setup.



    any resolution to the shorter sls spring stolenteg - is it just a variation in manufacture?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Interesting foggnm, thanks.

    Not sure how familiar you are with trails in and around the town of Durango. Many folks here ripping around on hardtails and short travel bikes.
    I live in Albuquerque so know what the southern CO, northern NM, AZ, UT areas have to offer. Everyone had their travel preferences. I just don't think of the sb130 as an all around bike as I did say of my Hightower LT. You can ride any bike up/down anything and there are always trade offs. I'm just saying that having a longer travel bike has its advantages. I did 20,000 ft of descending on my 150 at Angel Fire last weekend and I can only imagine how much more tired I would be on a 130. A few years back I did the Barr trail descent on a SC 5010....so it isn't as if I haven't done things both ways. More travel to me just means less fatigue and a greater margin of control on dh-ish rides. And my sb130 is definitely more flickable, but the 150 gives me much bigger grins.

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    ..deleted. saw the answer in a different thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by Karve View Post
    Hey stolenteg and Digev - Im keen on the DB COil IL fox sls setup myself. Thanks for the info so far... Couple of questions.

    [LIST][*]How is the end of the stroke - does it ramp up enough? I know that the sb130 isnt the most progressive of designs so keen to get some feedback[*]What riding weight are you / spring rate have you ended up on?[*]Any more pics of your bike rocking the setup.
    Here痴 what I think after 4 good months of riding the CCIL Coil.

    The frame kinematics give it a 12% leverage ratio progression. That makes it a very good candidate for a coil shock, and it痴 been verified in real life on countless type of terrains (at cruising and race pace). No harsh bottom out but no bobbing either when pedaling, the switch infinity does a great job to prevent that anyway. The mid-stroke is sublime and that痴 where the suspension spends most of its time so it better be.

    People totally accept to see a coil shock on a SB150 with 15% leverage progression. The 130 is very very close to that number, I'll let you draw your own conclusions.

    SETTINGS: the base settings are simply the best, so out of the box it痴 ready to roll!

    Factory Neutral Base Tune (from closed)

    HSC: 2.5 turns
    LSC: 11 clicks
    HSR: 2.5 turns
    LSR: 8 clicks
    Preload: 1 turn

    SPRING RATE: Have a look at the list below. When I made that list, I did not take into account the 12% progression and because of that my first spring was a bit too firm for my weight (especially towards the end of the travel). Now that I know how it works I can tell you what to do. From that list, select the coil based on your REAL weight, not your ready to ride weight. That makes up for the extra weight of your clothes, water, food, tool etc ...

    I won稚 bore you with all the testing and different rates, settings etc ... but it took a long while to get it just right.

    So here you go ... if you ever want to switch one day, now you know what to do

    CaneCreek DB Coil Inline + 55mm stroke + Yeti SB130 (SPRING RATES)


    60Kg = 334lbs
    61Kg = 340lbs
    62Kg = 345lbs
    63Kg = 351lbs
    64Kg = 356lbs
    65Kg = 362lbs
    66Kg = 367lbs
    67Kg = 373lbs
    68Kg = 379lbs
    69Kg = 384lbs
    70Kg = 390lbs
    71Kg = 395lbs
    72Kg = 401lbs
    73Kg = 406lbs
    74Kg = 412lbs
    75Kg = 418lbs
    76Kg = 423lbs
    77Kg = 429lbs
    78Kg = 434lbs
    79Kg = 440lbs
    80Kg = 445lbs
    81Kg = 451lbs
    82Kg = 457lbs
    83Kg = 462lbs
    84Kg = 468lbs
    85Kg = 473lbs
    86Kg = 479lbs
    87Kg = 484lbs
    88Kg = 490lbs
    89Kg = 496lbs
    90Kg = 501lbs
    91Kg = 507lbs
    92Kg = 512lbs
    93Kg = 518lbs
    94Kg = 523lbs
    95Kg = 529lbs
    96Kg = 535lbs
    97Kg = 540lbs
    98Kg = 546lbs
    99Kg = 551lbs

    (edited to add riders up to a 650lbs spring rate, thanks "rondre3000" for letting me know about the 600/650lbs rate)

    100Kg = 557lbs
    101Kg = 562lbs
    102Kg = 568lbs
    103Kg = 573lbs
    104Kg = 579lbs
    105Kg = 585lbs
    106Kg = 590lbs
    107Kg = 596lbs
    108Kg = 601lbs
    109Kg = 607lbs
    110Kg = 612lbs
    111Kg = 618lbs
    112Kg = 624lbs
    113Kg = 629lbs
    114Kg = 635lbs
    115Kg = 640lbs
    116Kg = 646lbs
    117Kg = 651lbs
    118Kg = 657lbs
    119Kg = 663lbs
    120Kg = 668lbs


    CC VALT SPRING

    2.25 x 350
    2.25 x 400
    2.25 x 450
    2.25 x 500
    2.25 x 550
    2.25 x 600
    2.25 x 650

    FOX SLS SPRING

    2.25 x 400
    2.25 x 425
    2.25 x 450
    2.25 x 475
    2.25 x 500
    2.25 x 525
    2.25 x 550

    Hopefuly it will make life easier for those who want to get a CCDB Coil IL on their SB130! Getting the right spring being crucial for a great result
    Last edited by digev; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:07 AM.

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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build


  169. #2169
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build



    Lots of people seem to like the 11.6 as well!
    Last edited by digev; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:10 PM.

  170. #2170
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    Awsome info Digev - thanks a bunch. Great stuff - bike looks rad!

  171. #2171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karve View Post
    Awsome info Digev - thanks a bunch. Great stuff - bike looks rad!
    Thanks. The last picture is not mine, just a 130 + 11.6 ... I've just added a comment

    I see tons of CCIL and a few 11.6 but not many other brands/models. That壇 be great if other people with different coil shocks could give their feedback.

  172. #2172
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    If anyone has a friend in need of a 2 month old sb130 turq frame, size large, send me a message or see my ad on PB. I just haven't found love for this bike like I have for my 150.Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_20190824_115031.jpg

  173. #2173
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    you池e going to make someone happy, enjoy your 150

  174. #2174
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    • Medium black Turq frame = 2567g
    • dpx2 = 425g
    • 11-6 = 893g
    • derailleur hanger = 38g
    • bottle cage screws = 8g
    • seat clamp = 25g
    • rear hexle = 45g


    • 6.85 lbs with dpx2
    • 7.88 lbs with push coil


    It's a pig if you ask me.
    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post
    I've just opened up today my 2020 SB130 Frame in Anthracite (Grey) color / Size Large.
    Actual weight of the frame with stock DPX2 shock, rear axle, and seat clamp is 3280g (7.231 lbs)
    Not a superlight frame.
    My SB100 in Black (Raw) / Size Large is 2,682g.
    My 2017 SB6c Green / Size Large was 3,165g.
    It was obvious that the SB130 will be heavier than SB100, but I did not expect it to be even heavier than the SB6c.
    The weight of my 2020 SB130 Frame in Turquoise color and size M with DPX2 shock, rear axle, and seat clamp is 3.260g (7.187 lbs).

    Are Turq Series 2020 frames heavier than in 2019? I think so

    Someone here has weighed their Turq Series 2020 frame Turquoise color and size M????

    Thank you.

    Regards.

  175. #2175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    The weight of my 2020 SB130 Frame in Turquoise color and size M with DPX2 shock, rear axle, and seat clamp is 3.260g (7.187 lbs).

    Are Turq Series 2020 frames heavier than in 2019? I think so

    Someone here has weighed their Turq Series 2020 frame Turquoise color and size M????

    Thank you.

    Regards.
    Running improvements in durability? If that's the case, I'd take a .3 lbs weight gain so that my frame doesn't break in random places at random times. .3 lbs of weight can be lost elsewhere. Like wheels, cockpit, and drivetrain. Or yourself. I definitely like knowing what my bike weighs. But it's not something I obsess over. Hell, I put Guides, a 180 rear rotor, and a Double Down rear tire on my SB100 because it's damn near a necessity where I ride. I've lost too many tires this year from sharp rocks slicing the tread and/or sidewall. It weighs about 27.5 lbs ready to ride, but it does have carbon wheels. Heavier than most SB100s here, but the lightest bike I've ever owned. And I don't give up braking, durability, and tire longevity to shave off 1% of its total weight.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  176. #2176
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    I was also surprised at the sb130 when i got it. I got over it and added more weight (coils, cushcore, tmac pedals). It sits over 30lbs. The weight makes it more stable on the downs. Im ok with the weight. As a former weight weenie, there are some things i can't compromise on and most of them are kinda heavy. I use to go with rocket rons and ikons, light pedals, light rims, etc. All that shit eventually breaks which really ruins your day. My purpose is for fun so saving taking a tiny but longer on the ups is fine because I'll smash it on the downs with more safety.

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  177. #2177
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    I agree with almazing and jacksonlui but the weight surprises me. I thought the frame would be lighter. I hope those extra grams make it stronger.

    Thank you.

    Regards.

  178. #2178
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    Just got my SB130 T1 Turq build kit today. I applied 2 and 4 inch 3M tape which I cut to length. It's shiny but whatever. The bike will be covered in mud and dirt soon. I bought the bike from Jenson and they did a pretty good job with building the bike. Cables cut to length, and the derailleur is actually tuned properly! Pleasantly surprised! I tore the entire bike apart and packed the bearings with extra grease because the bearings don't come with enough grease. Also re-torqued to Yeti's spec.

    1st impressions as far as build quality... It's amazing. I thought my SB100 was built impeccably... but the SB130 is a step above. The fit and finish of each bolt and hardware is the best I've seen. Makes the SB100 seem kind of... unfinished.

    As far as my own changes to the bike, I added 203 Shimano Ice Tech Rotors front and rear. Changed the saddle to a Fabric Scoop Shallow. And the wheels to carbon Crankbrothers Synthesis E11. Tires are WTB Vigilante 2.5 Tough/High Grip front, and WTB Trail Boss 2.4 Tough/Fast Rolling rear. Heavy, robust tires. Weight comes to 32.5 with pedals, which is what I was expecting. My SB100 weighs about 4 pounds less. But my SB130 was meant to be a heavy duty trail-duro bike.

    The Shimano XT 12S is phenomenal. Feels better than my XO1 but that's just first impressions around the neighborhood. Tomorrow, I take it through its paces and I'm pretty stoked! Can't wait to really ride it!
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  179. #2179
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Just got my SB130 T1 Turq build kit today. I applied 2 and 4 inch 3M tape which I cut to length. It's shiny but whatever. The bike will be covered in mud and dirt soon. I bought the bike from Jenson and they did a pretty good job with building the bike. Cables cut to length, and the derailleur is actually tuned properly! Pleasantly surprised! I tore the entire bike apart and packed the bearings with extra grease because the bearings don't come with enough grease. Also re-torqued to Yeti's spec.

    1st impressions as far as build quality... It's amazing. I thought my SB100 was built impeccably... but the SB130 is a step above. The fit and finish of each bolt and hardware is the best I've seen. Makes the SB100 seem kind of... unfinished.

    As far as my own changes to the bike, I added 203 Shimano Ice Tech Rotors front and rear. Changed the saddle to a Fabric Scoop Shallow. And the wheels to carbon Crankbrothers Synthesis E11. Tires are WTB Vigilante 2.5 Tough/High Grip front, and WTB Trail Boss 2.4 Tough/Fast Rolling rear. Heavy, robust tires. Weight comes to 32.5 with pedals, which is what I was expecting. My SB100 weighs about 4 pounds less. But my SB130 was meant to be a heavy duty trail-duro bike.

    The Shimano XT 12S is phenomenal. Feels better than my XO1 but that's just first impressions around the neighborhood. Tomorrow, I take it through its paces and I'm pretty stoked! Can't wait to really ride it!

    Congrats man !!!
    I've seen online that people were very happy with how JensonUSA assemble and ship the bikes out. Glad to hear that you're confirming that.
    Don't forget to upload some pics of your build and first ride impressions.

    Can't wait for mine to be ready...
    Hopefully sometime next week.

  180. #2180
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    I purchased a C2 130 from Jenson and can echo the same attention to shipping the bike out right. I have had mine for a little over a month and couldn't be happier with the bike. I just got back from a week in Colorado and while the snow ruined some high country aspiration I was able to get rides in in Summit County, Eagle, Fruita, and Moab. I am coming from a V1 5010 and couldn't be happier with the 130. I had a SB95 before departing for the 5010 and I can gladly say as a Medium frame rider the improvements in 29ers over the past five years for us who are a little vertically challenge couldn't be better. Here's a couple of my bike at Klondike Bluffs.

    picturesYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-130.1.jpg

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-130.2.jpg

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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    1st ride impressions. Not sure if I was more excited to ride the SB130 or use then new Shimano 12s XT!

    First things first, the bike. It feels A LOT more different compared to my SB100. I initially thought they'd feel quite similar, but no. The 130 is a big, burly bike. The 100 is a lightweight racer in comparison. Pedaling is efficient, as expected. And the off the top sensitivity surprised me. It's pretty nice and supple. The rear end ramps up quite nicely as well and there's a lot of mid-stroke support. I didn't use up full travel on this ride. The long reach and front center require a more forward aggressive style of riding. Otherwise, I'd understeer and push. I had to consciously weigh the front end. This bike picks up speed incredibly fast and maintains it. It's stable, yet flickable. And nice and poppy. I'm able to clear and climb through a lot of the tech sections I couldn't clear with my SB100 which says a lot for this bike's climbing prowess. It is quite heavy the way I have it built at 32.5 lbs. My SB100 is 28 lbs. Weight is definitely felt when pedaling and climbing steeper sections.

    I have 203 rotors front and rear so it brakes really really good. The new Shimano XT 4 piston brakes are amazing. It's almost the same level of modulation as the Guide Ultimates/RSCs, but has a little more power. Think of them as between Guides/G2s and Codes. Very happy with the brakes. Lever shape is flatter now and a little more ergonomic. No wandering bite point.

    As far as suspension, I'm a fan of the FIT4 damper. I'm a set it and forget it kind of guy. It works really well. As does the DPX2. Suspension is great all around. I probably wont Lunch Ride this bike. The reason I got it is because I grew tired of long travel enduro bikes. I may consider snipping the spacer in the shock, but so far, the travel is just fine for me.

    The XT 12 Speed is a game changer. Smoothest drivetrain I've ever used. It shifts better than the XO1 on my SB100 and hell, even better than the XTR 11 speed. But compared to the 11s XTR, there's a little more play in the levers, while the XTR has non. The Hyperglide+ makes it so I can shift under power going up or down with literally no hiccups or the sound of grinding metal. The shifter is crisp and a joy to use. Easily the most quiet drivetrain I've ever had. Ever. XT builds are the deals of the decade. It's cheaper than XO1 builds but performs better. There's no reason not to go XT. Shimano is back. A few things I noticed with the new generation compared to the old. When you're on the largest cog, the downshift lever stays solid when you push(like SRAM's) instead of being loose and free moving, which I preferred. Removing and replacing the rear wheel is kind of a pain in the ass now. Old Shimano 11s derailleurs were able to pivot at the hanger giving you clearance to wrap or remove the chain around the cassette. It's now solidly stuck in just one position. And since it doesn't have that little derailleur tension catch button(like SRAM), it feels like I need 3 hands to remove and replace the rear wheel.

    I look forward to riding the bike in different trails. Overall, I'm incredibly happy with it. I'll need to do a little more dialing in, but that shouldn't be too difficult.

    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  182. #2182
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    When you're on the largest cog, the downshift lever stays solid when you push(like SRAM's) instead of being loose and free moving, which I preferred.
    Damn - I loved the fact that on my 11sp XT I could push the lever and if it was free to move, I knew I was already in the bailout cog!

    Are you able to compare the progressiveness of the XT brakes to the previous generation (M8000/M8020) XT brakes?
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build

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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Removing and replacing the rear wheel is kind of a pain in the ass now. Old Shimano 11s derailleurs were able to pivot at the hanger giving you clearance to wrap or remove the chain around the cassette. It's now solidly stuck in just one position. And since it doesn't have that little derailleur tension catch button(like SRAM), it feels like I need 3 hands to remove and replace the rear wheel.
    Shift into smallest cog. Hold your bike with your right hand by the seatpost with the wheel a couple inches off the ground. Use your left hand to push the derailleur rearward/down and the wheel will drop right out. To reinstall hold bike by seatpost in right hand, push the derailleur rearward/down with left hand and slide the rear triangle down on the bike so the chain catches the smallest cog (release the derailleur) , then further drop the bike down until in dropouts.

  184. #2184
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    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build

    Quote Originally Posted by MJW75 View Post
    Are you able to compare the progressiveness of the XT brakes to the previous generation (M8000/M8020) XT brakes?
    I have the 2 piston XT M8000 brakes on my hardtail. The 4 pistons are obviously more powerful. The initial stroke until it bites feels very similar due to the Servowave. It痴 not an on-off switch but it痴 a strong initial bite compared to Guides. But the initial bite isn稚 as strong as the 2 pistons. After you get past the initial bite, modulation gets a lot better and is more progressive as you depress the lever. I still think that the high end Guide/G2 RSCs and Ultimates have a smidge better modulation but the new XT brakes are very close. Compared with lesser Guides/G2s, the new XT feels better.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  185. #2185
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    Hi all, first post in the thread. I just got myself a demo model sb130 and am really excited about it. I'm coming from a 2018 V1 YT Jeffsy I'd slacked out by 10mm in the front. This bike is, ironically, heavier (by about a pound) but also feels faster and lighter underneath, seems to jump better, and pedals FAR better. The Geometry is, oddly, more agile and XC feeling to me, even though in some respects it's a bigger/equivalent bike.

    Anyway, I had a question for you all. Is there any valid reason at all to leave the spacer in the shock? Outside of changing the suspension travel very slightly, does it actually change how the bike rides at all? As far as I can tell it must function like a very tiny volume reducer, but other than that I can't really see any valid function on this particular bike other than allowing yeti to market a standard version and a LR version with "different specs". Am I correct in this analysis or am I missing something?

    Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-yeti-bike.jpg  


  186. #2186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
    Is there any valid reason at all to leave the spacer in the shock?
    As far as I'm concerned, it is a no brainier. It is so small, you aren't going to feel any effects from increased volume, however you have more squish, which will result in higher pressure at the end of the stroke, which will give more bottom out protection anyway.

    The way I see it - you can take it out and setup as you did before - this way it feels the same, but you will bottom out less. The alternative is to add another 2mm of sag which will give you more travel and a bit more traction and compliance. I've tried both, it still climbs like a beast either way.
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build

  187. #2187
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    So, do you recommend removing the spacer?

  188. #2188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    So, do you recommend removing the spacer?
    Yes, 100%.
    Yeti SB130LR Turq Series Custom Build

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    I see that you have installed a DVO fork, so do yourself a favor and swap the rear shock for a Topaz 210x55. You won't regret it!

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    2020 SB130 clearance with with a WTB Trail Boss Tough/Fast Rolling 2.4. Measuring a smidge wider than 2.4 inches at the widest part of knobs. Mounted to a 29.5mm rim. Definitely room for a true to size 2.5. No rubbing with this tire.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  191. #2191
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    Quote Originally Posted by JC822 View Post
    I see that you have installed a DVO fork, so do yourself a favor and swap the rear shock for a Topaz 210x55. You won't regret it!
    Why do you recommend this over the DPX2?

  192. #2192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uzzy View Post
    So, do you recommend removing the spacer?
    I like it. In stock form, I'd bottom out noticeably on bigger hits. Adding a 0.4 volume spacer helped with that, but I liked it more linear. Once I removed the travel reducer, I was also able to pull the volume spacer out. No more harsh bottom outs and back to the preferred feel. I'm running ~32% sag (of 136mm). It pedals great still.

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    Parted with my sb130. Enjoyed reading all your posts and seeing build pictures! Just never had that much fun on the 130. Keeping the sb150 forever (or at least until the next gen comes out)! New SC TB on the way! And thanks for helping me get the CC coil sold!

  194. #2194
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Parted with my sb130. Enjoyed reading all your posts and seeing build pictures! Just never had that much fun on the 130. Keeping the sb150 forever (or at least until the next gen comes out)! New SC TB on the way! And thanks for helping me get the CC coil sold!
    Enjoy the new ride! As long as you have fun riding... My friend is super excited about the shock. I was a bad influence since I already had one on my SB130...

    Be safe.

    Sent from the singletrack...
    Sent from the singletrack...

  195. #2195
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    I found it to be more supple in general, giving excellent traction, with an insane small bump compliance, great mid-stroke support and nice ramping up so it is hard to bottom out. I was just mentioning it since you must enjoy the feel of the DVO fork. It complements it very well in my experience.

  196. #2196
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    Came from a 150 X01 build and loving the new ride. Pretty much done for now 

    2020 SB130 Anthracite T1 build

    Upgrades so far:

    Renthal Fatbar Carbon 30m rise (780mm)

    Renthal Apex Stem 50mm

    DMR Deathgrips

    Fox Factory Transfer Post (170mm)

    DT Swiss 54t Ratchet

    OneUp chain guide/bash guard

    Ice Tech Rotors (203mm / 180mm)

    DPX2 volume spacer (0.6 for now - more testing needed)

    Invisiframe - Gloss

    Soon:

    i9 Enduro310C with Hydra hubs

    Possible Grip2 damper on the 150 or go full Lunch Ride

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-sb130.jpg

  197. #2197
    The Mud Stud
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    Thanks for all the suspension advice, looks like I'm going to be taking the spacer out as it doesn't seem to accomplish much other than marketing really in this application.

    I had a tire/weight question. I am coming from a YT jeffsy that I had set up with 2.6 tires front and back (Bontrager sl4 AND Schwalbe nobby nic). I'm thinking of going lighter as the YT was actually lighter than this bike and I want a lighter and faster xc/trail feel without losing most of the downhill composure (the local trails are a lot of up and down).

    My thoughts were to go to a minion dhf 2.6 front and a forekaster 2.35 rear as this bike seems to handle small and larger hits a bit better, and maybe doesn't need such large tires. Does anyone have any tire advice in terms of size and model for a good all purpose front/rear xc/trail setup? Losing weight without dying in a corner at speed are my main goals.

  198. #2198
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
    Thanks for all the suspension advice, looks like I'm going to be taking the spacer out as it doesn't seem to accomplish much other than marketing really in this application.

    I had a tire/weight question. I am coming from a YT jeffsy that I had set up with 2.6 tires front and back (Bontrager sl4 AND Schwalbe nobby nic). I'm thinking of going lighter as the YT was actually lighter than this bike and I want a lighter and faster xc/trail feel without losing most of the downhill composure (the local trails are a lot of up and down).

    My thoughts were to go to a minion dhf 2.6 front and a forekaster 2.35 rear as this bike seems to handle small and larger hits a bit better, and maybe doesn't need such large tires. Does anyone have any tire advice in terms of size and model for a good all purpose front/rear xc/trail setup? Losing weight without dying in a corner at speed are my main goals.

    If you want to run with 29x2.6 on the front then I would recommend using a 29x2.5 on the rear, definitely nothing less than 29x2.4.
    I've tried in the past on my previously owned 2017 SB6 to use on the Front DHF 27.5x2.6 and on the rear Forekaster 29x2.35 and it just felt awkward. The front had too much grip and cornering abilities compared to the rear and the rear way too fast compared to the front. They just didn't team up very well. But once I switched the rear to Forekaster 27.5x2.6 it was my favorite combo.

    I would recommend trying:
    Front: Dissector 29x2.4 3C/EXO MaxxTerra (860g)
    Rear: Forekaster 29x2.35 EXO (735g)

    Dissector 2.4 on the Front will Grip and Corner better than DHF 2.5 and DHRII 2.4, when at the same time it'll roll faster than DHF 2.3 and DHRII 2.3.
    I'm in a process of building my 2020 SB130 and planning on running with Dissector 2.4 Front and Back until it'll get rainy here in NorCal and then I'll switch the rear to Forekaster 2.35 as well.
    Forekaster in general is one of my favorite tires. I used Forekaster 29x2.35 Front and Rear on my SB100 all last season. And soon will be building Ibis DV9 hardtail with Forekaster 29x2.6 Front and Rear.
    But the new Dissector is definitely my new favorite tire.


    Happy Shredding

  199. #2199
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    So after riding my new SB130 7 days in a row in 7 different trail systems and amassing roughly 90 miles in varied terrain(smooth, rocky, loose, soft, fast, slow, climbing, descending, XC loops, chunky techy loops, etc.), I'll have to say this is one of the best and capable bikes I've ever ridden. I can clear techy climb sections I couldn't(or have had trouble with) before. I can take the chunkier line and feel very confident doing so. And I can hit drops I've never hit before.

    It pedals so efficiently and picks up speed so quickly that it almost feels as hair-raising and as fast as my SB100. But it doesn't have the sketchiness when going through chunk. Due to the SB130's longer travel, the overall feedback is a bit more muffled compared to its shorter travel brother, but not overly so like my old Trek Slash. The ride characteristic is unmistakably 'Yeti'.

    Descending with the SB130 on any type of terrain is a blast. Once I learned to put my weight slightly more forward, I'm capable to taking flat and off camber corners noticeably faster than my other bikes. It's stable, yet quick to steer. To my surprise, despite having a very slack HA, the front end does not wander about when climbing. Must be some kind of sorcery because my Slash has the same HA and its front end loves to wander about when climbing.

    I'm running WTB Vigilante 2.5 Tough/High Grip for the front and WTB Trail Boss 2.4 Tough/Fast Rolling for the rear. Great tires, if a bit heavy. They really compliment the SB130 well. Finding the 'Goldilocks' pressure for the Vigilante takes a lot of trial and error. But the Trail Boss, it's not really that big of a deal. I can run it higher or lower and it's totally fine. They're heavy, beefy tires and it takes a little more effort to get them going and rolling. But they grip and slow down with the best of them.

    One area I found that it doesn't excel in is pedaling through slower, chunkier terrain. The very, very low BB catches me off guard and I'll smash my pedal on something which will either throw my line off, or force me to come to a halt and get off the bike. My MRP bash guard is working overtime now.

    The SB130 is phenomenal on trails. Fun and exciting on both smooth and chunk. But this weekend, I'm taking the bike to Lake Leatherwood in Arkansas. I'm excited to see how it fares in a more gravity oriented environment.

    Yeti is right. No one bike can rule all. But the SB130? One bike that rules. Definitely one of the best bikes they've ever made.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  200. #2200
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    Finally received my Custom SB130 Build from my LBS:

    Size: L
    invisiFRAME (Matte)
    Stock DPX2 Rear Shock
    Fox 36 Grip2 Fork with 150mm Air Shaft + Kabolt Axle (Black)
    Cane Creek AER II Headset + AER Spacers
    ENVE M7 Stem
    OneUp Bars
    RevGrips Half Waffle
    SRAM Code RSC Brakes + SRAM CenterLine X Rotors 180/180
    Eagle XX1/X01 AXS Drivetrain with 170mm Cranks
    absoluteBLACK Oval Chainring 32T
    absoluteBLACK Chainguide + Bashguard
    C-Bear DUB Ceramic Bottom Bracket
    Crank Brothers Mallet E Pedals
    OneUp Dropper Post 210mm + PNW The Loam Lever Remote (Cement Grey)
    Fabric Scoop Pro Team Radius Saddle
    NEXTIE 34mm Internal Carbon Rims
    i9 Hydra 32H Centerlock Hubs
    DT Swiss Aerolight Spokes + DT Swiss Brass Nipples
    Maxxis Dissector 2.4 3C/MaxxTerra Tires Front + Rear

    Yeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3410.jpgYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3411.jpgYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3412.jpgYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3413.jpgYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3414.jpgYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3415.jpgYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3416.jpgYeti SB130 Discussion, Performance and Build-img_3417.jpg

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