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  1. #1
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    Yeti SB100 Switch suspension Creek

    I thought I would start this thread to find out if anyone has a permanent fix for this creek. 3 rides on my new SB100 and creek is starting. Yeti says They’re working on the fix!!

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    The Just Riding Along podcast on Mountain Bike Radio discusses the fix and it was to take it apart, clean and re-grease. Also, you can try calling ProBikeSupply.com and talk to Mark. He mentioned Yeti already had a replacement part.
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    I just took apart the SI, greased the contact points to the frame and it has not been an issue since.

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    Any special tools needed to do the job?

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    Just got the fix kit from the online vendor. It consists of the new switch cover (different mold) and 4 pivot like female bolts. No instructions. Before I get started any quick insight to get this together? The bolts do not resemble anything I currently see. May need to dig deeper.

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    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    Just got the fix kit from the online vendor. It consists of the new switch cover (different mold) and 4 pivot like female bolts. No instructions. Before I get started any quick insight to get this together? The bolts do not resemble anything I currently see. May need to dig deeper.
    That doesn't sound like it's for this creaking issue on the SB100 at all!
    2018 - Yeti SB100
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    Just got the fix kit from the online vendor. It consists of the new switch cover (different mold) and 4 pivot like female bolts. No instructions. Before I get started any quick insight to get this together? The bolts do not resemble anything I currently see. May need to dig deeper.
    You need to remove the 4 Torx bolts from the long nuts that held the SI and black spacers together.
    Grease all metal on metal contact.
    The new shorter nuts install through the SI threads facing out, allen heads in.
    The Torx bolts thread into the new short nuts through the frame.
    Cover snaps on.

    The bikes I have installed these kits on have been quiet.
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    Quote Originally Posted by banks View Post
    The bikes I have installed these kits on have been quiet.
    What model bikes did you install the SI kit on?
    2018 - Yeti SB100
    2019 - Yeti SB150
    Previous bikes:
    SB75
    SB5
    SB4.5

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUBIRLMTB View Post
    What model bikes did you install the SI kit on?
    I'd guess sb100 since this is specific to this bike

  10. #10
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    This! Thank you thank you! Now it makes sense.

    Quote Originally Posted by banks View Post
    You need to remove the 4 Torx bolts from the long nuts that held the SI and black spacers together.
    Grease all metal on metal contact.
    The new shorter nuts install through the SI threads facing out, allen heads in.
    The Torx bolts thread into the new short nuts through the frame.
    Cover snaps on.

    The bikes I have installed these kits on have been quiet.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    I'd guess sb100 since this is specific to this bike
    Must give Yeti a call and see if this 100 SI kit exists..
    2018 - Yeti SB100
    2019 - Yeti SB150
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    SB4.5

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    My info is that there's a set of spacers that replace the existing ones between the s/infinity stanchions..

    Though greasing and tightening bearings generally fixes the issue.
    2018 - Yeti SB100
    2019 - Yeti SB150
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUBIRLMTB View Post
    My info is that there's a set of spacers that replace the existing ones between the s/infinity stanchions..

    Though greasing and tightening bearings generally fixes the issue.
    Yeah, uh the 2nd post confirmed that.

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    Just wanted to highlight this again for those that are doing the fix themselves. Initial street ride test proves to have silenced the issue. Trail test later today... The new configuration is much better in design IMHO. Silence is golden!


    Quote Originally Posted by banks View Post
    You need to remove the 4 Torx bolts from the long nuts that held the SI and black spacers together.
    Grease all metal on metal contact.
    The new shorter nuts install through the SI threads facing out, allen heads in.
    The Torx bolts thread into the new short nuts through the frame.
    Cover snaps on.

    The bikes I have installed these kits on have been quiet.

  15. #15
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    Wondering what your creak sounds like. I'm getting little chirps under power--but nothing really when coasting downhill. Wondering if I should play with the BB or take a look at the SI.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ejj View Post
    Wondering what your creak sounds like. I'm getting little chirps under power--but nothing really when coasting downhill. Wondering if I should play with the BB or take a look at the SI.
    You gots the creaks my friend

    I experienced chirps, pops and everyrhing in between. Thought it was everyhing else on the bike.

    I’ll get a furthet test later today. Will report back.

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    hmmm... how's the fishing in said creek?
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    New SI parts arrived today.
    I’m hoping I did this correctly...
    Yeti SB100 Switch  suspension Creek-926b27ff-6653-4a60-82e5-cf9f8c929b6a.jpg

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Switch  suspension Creek-2ed3f4fc-d746-4748-8c70-7843f5aa924b.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by tmc1171 View Post
    New SI parts arrived today.
    I’m hoping I did this correctly...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I don't have the creak, yet. But, I was able to get the bag of parts to fix the creak anyway. Can you explain how you installed them? Looks like the parts are related to the SI itself, not frame to SI bushings.

    Thanks.

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    Can you show us the parts? The fix package I recived had everything to do what we see in TMC’s photo. Nothing to do with the SI itself, but more how it attaches to the frame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    Can you show us the parts? The fix package I recived had everything to do what we see in TMC�s photo. Nothing to do with the SI itself, but more how it attaches to the frame.
    My bad on my phrasing. I didn�t receive new SI parts. Just new hardware parts to attach.
    Pretty much what was described in post #7

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    Can you show us the parts? The fix package I recived had everything to do what we see in TMC’s photo. Nothing to do with the SI itself, but more how it attaches to the frame.

    This is my first SI Yeti. Used to servicing the old switch. I have never had an SI apart. I've attached a picture of the fix kit...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Switch  suspension Creek-img_1576.jpg  

    Yeti SB100 Switch  suspension Creek-expoded-view-si.jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by trailerpup View Post
    This is my first SI Yeti. Used to servicing the old switch. I have never had an SI apart. I've attached a picture of the fix kit...

    I didn’t receive those 4 black parts. Only the fender and 4 silver parts.
    WTF!?...

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    Quote Originally Posted by trailerpup View Post
    This is my first SI Yeti. Used to servicing the old switch. I have never had an SI apart. I've attached a picture of the fix kit...
    Thanks for sharing. Yea, I didn’t recieve those black parts either. Odd. Not even sure where they would go. The SI doesn’t seem overly complicated to house such small pieces - internally.

    Anyone else recieve those black pieces?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tmc1171 View Post
    I didn’t receive those 4 black parts. Only the fender and 4 silver parts.
    WTF!?...

    exactly. that's why i posted the pictures. not sure where they would go. it looks like the creak was created by the black spacer that the old cover plate attached to when i saw your photo. i was trying figure out what the xtra pieces were that came in my kit...

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    Quote Originally Posted by tmc1171 View Post
    I didn’t receive those 4 black parts. Only the fender and 4 silver parts.
    WTF!?...
    I think you’re good ... I pulled up the SB 5.5 manual and looks like the black pieces are the fitting washers for the original SI that were sent by mistake

    Based on the photos above and the info I just got from Yeti all you need is the four female bolts to replace the Ti stud/shaft


    Photos from 5.5 manual:






  28. #28
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    Good detective work. I'll bag up the black fittings and throw them in the parts bin. Thanks!

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    A buddy of mine has a SB100. He had the creaking issue a week after he got it. Also they could not get one of the pivot bolts out of the rear. He informed me that they ended up having it for 3 weeks. They replaced the rear triangle and installed a new UPDATED switch infinity due to the known creaking issue.

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    I think (hope) there seems to be confusion with what is actually being updated. When we hear the SI has been updated, we automatically think it’s the whole unit — it’s not.

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    Yeti SB100 Switch suspension Creek

    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    I think (hope) there seems to be confusion with what is actually being updated. When we hear the SI has been updated, we automatically think it’s the whole unit — it’s not.
    After looking at the pictures and listening to the creaks it totally makes sense that the common shaft holding the SI thingie would creak ... don’t know much about manufacturing tolerances, but I know enough that it would be impossible to keep things tight enough ... individual female bolts make total sense, and that’s why the original SIs don’t creak

    Really Impressed with Yeti on addressing the issue

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    Just did my hardware update, very easy, looks well designed!! I like the large bearings used in rear triangle I gave them a good 20-30 rotations before reassembling. The whole Switch assembly operates very smoothly and now the cover just poops off with out having to remove all 4 screws. Glad I had a chance to do this early on so now any maintenance will be easy!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    Just did my hardware update, very easy, looks well designed!! I like the large bearings used in rear triangle I gave them a good 20-30 rotations before reassembling. The whole Switch assembly operates very smoothly and now the cover just poops off with out having to remove all 4 screws. Glad I had a chance to do this early on so now any maintenance will be easy!!
    What bearings are you talking about ?

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    The bearings at the grease fitting area's.

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    did they come as part of the updated hardware kit ?

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by kermit_xc View Post
    did they come as part of the updated hardware kit ?
    The grease ports are located inside the large black 8mm swingarm pivots bolts that bolt from the triangle through large bearings into the SI slider. Only the (4) 5mm head bolts and a new SI plate cover come with the new fix.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apexit View Post
    The grease ports are located inside the large black 8mm swingarm pivots bolts that bolt from the triangle through large bearings into the SI slider. Only the (4) 5mm head bolts and a new SI plate cover come with the new fix.
    gotcha ... so not relevant to this thread, at all

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    Quote Originally Posted by kermit_xc View Post
    gotcha ... so not relevant to this thread, at all
    Just like tmc, I replaced the shaft with four female bolts ... creaks are gone after jumping few curbs in the neighborhood.

    Before


    After

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    Done. Removed drive side crank arm and rear triangle. Ti screws take a T25 torx, my SI tool kit now includes a stubby 5mm hex key for the bushings. Yeti infinity grease on the bushings, loctite on the Ti screw threads. 20 minute job. Cheers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Switch  suspension Creek-img_1584.jpg  

    Yeti SB100 Switch  suspension Creek-img_1585.jpg  

    Last edited by trailerpup; 09-02-2018 at 02:58 PM.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailerpup View Post
    Done. Removed drive side crank arm and rear triangle. Ti screws take a T25 torx, my SI tool kit now includes a stubby 5mm hex key for the bushings. Yeti infinity grease on the bushings, anti-sieze on the Ti screw threads. 20 minute job. Cheers.
    What torque did you apply to the T25 bolts ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by kermit_xc View Post
    What torque did you apply to the T25 bolts ?
    10Nm per the manual. I'll check them after a ride or two, as well. I like the clip on cover better, will be easier to get in there for cleaning. The clip-on cover seems a little cheaper-built than the original.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trailerpup View Post
    10Nm per the manual. I'll check them after a ride or two, as well. I like the clip on cover better, will be easier to get in there for cleaning. The clip-on cover seems a little cheaper-built than the original.

    I was told by the dealer 3nm and Blue Locktite

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    Quote Originally Posted by trailerpup View Post
    10Nm per the manual. I'll check them after a ride or two, as well. I like the clip on cover better, will be easier to get in there for cleaning. The clip-on cover seems a little cheaper-built than the original.
    I was told by tech@yeti.com to bump the torque to 12Nm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Durangolife View Post
    I was told by the dealer 3nm and Blue Locktite
    yikes

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    Quote Originally Posted by kermit_xc View Post
    I was told by tech@yeti.com to bump the torque to 12Nm.
    Orignal manual said 10Nm, new manual says 12Nm. Probably close enough? I trashed the original manual and downloaded the new manual. Thanks for the heads up.

    Rode today after work. No creak.



    ...3Nm sounds a bit low.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trailerpup View Post
    Orignal manual said 10Nm, new manual says 12Nm. Probably close enough? I trashed the original manual and downloaded the new manual. Thanks for the heads up.

    Rode today after work. No creak.
    wait ... new manual ??? off to the website I go!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kermit_xc View Post
    yikes
    Exactly! I just confirmed with Yeti it is 12nm

  48. #48
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    Wondering if those who have installed the updated switch infinity hardware are satisfied with the results.

    From the photos above, comparing the original SI with the updated SI hardware, Yeti has removed surprisingly significant components, including the two metal shafts and spacers. As the SI is like a mini fork, it would seem the upper and lower shafts and metal spacers were originally designed in for rigidity. Now that this SI hardware has been removed with the update, this would naturally shift more stress to the frame’s carbon tabs.

    Is there now more flex in the rear suspension with the updated SI or is it the same? If so, is it noticeable when cornering?
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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Wondering if those who have installed the updated switch infinity hardware are satisfied with the results.

    From the photos above, comparing the original SI with the updated SI hardware, Yeti has removed surprisingly significant components, including the two metal shafts and spacers. As the SI is like a mini fork, it would seem the upper and lower shafts and metal spacers were originally designed in for rigidity. Now that this SI hardware has been removed with the update, this would naturally shift more stress to the frame’s carbon tabs.

    Is there now more flex in the rear suspension with the updated SI or is it the same? If so, is it noticeable when cornering?
    I demo'd an SB100 for a few days earlier this month. It had the fix installed, but I can't comment on what it was like before. I can tell you the flex was the same as what I've seen reported here and in videos. Grabbing the top of the rear tire and pushing resulted in obvious side to side flex where the stays meet the rest of the frame. That was worrisome, but honestly I never felt it on the trail. I was not as in-tune with a bike I rode only a couple of times, but there was nothing that screamed out at me.
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    I've got about a month on mine with no issues. I never rode it without the upgrade but the rear end of this bike feels plenty stiff to me. It's without a doubt stiffer than the Evil Following v1 I came off of. I don't see any signs of flex beyond what I would expect, and certainly nothing detrimental. It's also the quietest bike I've ever owned. I think they all flex to some degree if you grab the top of the tire and twist. My Slash, which is know to be a stiff frame has flex if you do it too. The Evil was noticably flexy when pushed hard when cornering. Thats when you dont want to feel it.

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    I've ridden mine for about 100 miles now and I don't notice much flex. But then again, I'm not shralping or roosting every berm and corner I come across. The only issue I had was that the lower shock bolt came loose and developed a minute amount of play. This play may be perceived as flex in the rear, as a loose lower shock bolt allows the rear triangle to move a bit side to side and up and down.

    I removed all the bolts, applied blue Loctite to the threads, greased the non threaded parts, and torqued to spec. I never had SI creaking issues but I took a preemptive step to Loctite the threads and torque them to 10NM, as they were a little loose.

    Every bike I get, I Loctite, grease, and torque properly. Your LBS or dealer is SUPPOSED to, at the very least, torque them down. But that's clearly not always the case. Best course of action is to do threadlock, grease, and torque everything down yourself. That way, you know for sure if it's a faulty frame or improper assembly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Wondering if those who have installed the updated switch infinity hardware are satisfied with the results.

    From the photos above, comparing the original SI with the updated SI hardware, Yeti has removed surprisingly significant components, including the two metal shafts and spacers. As the SI is like a mini fork, it would seem the upper and lower shafts and metal spacers were originally designed in for rigidity. Now that this SI hardware has been removed with the update, this would naturally shift more stress to the frame’s carbon tabs.

    Is there now more flex in the rear suspension with the updated SI or is it the same? If so, is it noticeable when cornering?
    I've had the fix installed for a few months now and everything is working great. No flex and everything is quiet. I'm a happy camper.

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    I locktited and torqued to spec my upgraded SI and have had no issues whatsoever with ~ 150 miles of trail riding. For the first few rides I was checking the SI bolts but they never loosened. The flex is noticeable (but not crazy) when holding the seatpost and the rear tire with the bike on the ground, but otherwise it simply isn't there. The bike is the stiffest and most quiet XC/Trail full suspension bike I have ever ridden. And it tracks like a bloodhound.

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    I don`t think the “hold the seat mast and pull on top of the wheel” is`t that good for determine if a bike is flexes or not...
    But if you try sitting on the bike as normal, and apply force at one pedal, is the rear triangle pulled outwards then?
    Mine is, approximately 10-20mm when applying 33 to 44lbs.
    My bike came with the “upgrade” SI hardware...

    I would much appreciate some feedback on this, sins i have discussed this with Yeti sins late October, but now i have given up...
    Sent them 2 videos showing the flex while doing the test mentioned above, but they say, and i quote;
    “The science behind what the bike is doing while riding is quite a bit more complex...”
    There is absolutely no difference in flex while i ride the bike, it`s just the same,
    and when pedaling uphill it`s quite easy to se the rear triangle being pulled outwards at each pedal stroke.

  55. #55
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    Nikno, could you post a link to your videos? This would be helpful.

    If you are seeing 10 to 20mm swingarm flex from chain tension, I would say this is not normal when compared to other frames. Likely, you have already checked the four bolts attaching the SI hardware are properly torqued in.

    Is this the C/Series or Turq frame?

    As for testing the rigidity of the rear swingarm, for comparison I have performed this test on a Pivot Mach C 429 and a G3 Santa Cruz Blur, in each case there was no visible movement/flex to the swingarms. Only the wheel/tire flexed a mm or two which is expected. I agree not scientific, but this test gives a good reference for comparison.
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    I'll check mine when I get home to see if there is visible flex when pressure is applied to the pedals. If there is I dont think it much.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Nikno, could you post a link to your videos? This would be helpful.

    If you are seeing 10 to 20mm swingarm flex from chain tension, I would say this is not normal when compared to other frames. Likely, you have already checked the four bolts attaching the SI hardware are properly torqued in.

    Is this the C/Series or Turq frame?

    As for testing the rigidity of the rear swingarm, for comparison I have performed this test on a Pivot Mach C 429 and a G3 Santa Cruz Blur, in each case there was no visible movement/flex to the swingarms. Only the wheel/tire flexed a mm or two which is expected. I agree not scientific, but this test gives a good reference for comparison.
    Sorry i don`t have the videos on youtube or anyting like that, i sent them direct to Yeti.

    The amount of flex is measured at the axle.
    I have checked all bolts, links and pre-load of the SI several times, all is tight/torqued.
    It`s great to get your opinions on this matter, thanks a lot

    (I asked if they could pleace send me the old SI hardware so i could try it out, but they no longer have those available... they say.)

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nikno View Post
    I don`t think the “hold the seat mast and pull on top of the wheel” is`t that good for determine if a bike is flexes or not...
    But if you try sitting on the bike as normal, and apply force at one pedal, is the rear triangle pulled outwards then?
    Mine is, approximately 10-20mm when applying 33 to 44lbs.
    My bike came with the “upgrade” SI hardware...

    I would much appreciate some feedback on this, sins i have discussed this with Yeti sins late October, but now i have given up...
    Sent them 2 videos showing the flex while doing the test mentioned above, but they say, and i quote;
    “The science behind what the bike is doing while riding is quite a bit more complex...”
    There is absolutely no difference in flex while i ride the bike, it`s just the same,
    and when pedaling uphill it`s quite easy to se the rear triangle being pulled outwards at each pedal stroke.
    As mentioned in the SB100 or another Yeti thread, your issue is clearly not FLEX and clearly something worse that needs to be addressed under warranty. Maybe try calling your dealer or Yeti and mention the lateral movement you have with your rear triangle and something is clearly off in the manufacturing process of your frame.

    As soon as you mention the word flex you are describing an issue that doesn’t exist in this bike/frame and that may explain one reason why you are getting no where.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicane32 View Post
    As mentioned in the SB100 or another Yeti thread, your issue is clearly not FLEX and clearly something worse that needs to be addressed under warranty. Maybe try calling your dealer or Yeti and mention the lateral movement you have with your rear triangle and something is clearly off in the manufacturing process of your frame.

    As soon as you mention the word flex you are describing an issue that doesn’t exist in this bike/frame and that may explain one reason why you are getting no where.

    Yes that might very vell be so..

    For the record, the time line of the contact with Yeti dealer and Yeti is something like this:

    2018-oct-28
    first ride on the bike, rear end was really loose after a 2 hour ride.
    When i got home, i checked the bolts holding the SI, and two of them was loose, i thought this is it, i just use some loctite and then it`s all good.
    Sent a mail to the Yeti dealer, just to inform them so they could inform their coustomers.

    I let the loctite harden over night, but the movement was still there.
    A couple of rides on the bike, but then novemvber 1, i sent a new mail to the Yeti dealer, informing about the situation, and got the answer that they would contact Yeti.
    I made the first video and sent them so they had some documentation to give Yeti.

    2018-Nov-6
    Yeti replys to the dealer, saying “That`s a strange one......”bla bla bla and request i check the four bolts i already have torqued and used loctite on.
    They also suggests i check the pre-load of the SI, and even tighten it a bit more...

    2018-Nov 7 to dec 3
    A lot back and forth, i take the bike to the Yeti dealer on request from Yeti...
    And so on...

    December 7 i send a mail direct to Yeti, all this back and forth is a complete nonsense....
    December 10, i get an reply from Yeti and i have to go through all this again, yes i have checked the bolts....
    yes i have checked the pre-load
    yes i hav..... and so on...
    “If you like i can send you a second video, even if you already have the first one, ok i do that.....

    This goes on with 29 emails back and forth until January 19, now i don´t stand this anymore, i give up... Yeti “won”!
    My perception of Yetis conclusion is; that as long as the bike hold up, not cracks, this is as it`s suppose to be...



    I like Yeti bikes, no i love Yeti bikes... i think they rides incredible and looks just awesome.... but this whole process makes me... neh... not very impressed.
    My wife has one SB95 and this was my fifth and last Yeti....

    Sorry for the nag...

  60. #60
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    I have an SB100. I like it. What strikes me is how poorly members of the Yeti forums treat each other. Some have no issues. Some do. Accept that. What I do read over and over is how poorly Yeti responses to issues, how hard they make the customer work to prove these issues, and how irritated ultimately the customer becomes. I have a simple measure when contractors ask how to do business with me....it's simple...be easy to work with. Yeti isn't easy to work with.

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  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nikno View Post
    Yes that might very vell be so..

    For the record, the time line of the contact with Yeti dealer and Yeti is something like this:

    2018-oct-28
    first ride on the bike, rear end was really loose after a 2 hour ride.
    When i got home, i checked the bolts holding the SI, and two of them was loose, i thought this is it, i just use some loctite and then it`s all good.
    Sent a mail to the Yeti dealer, just to inform them so they could inform their coustomers.

    I let the loctite harden over night, but the movement was still there.
    A couple of rides on the bike, but then novemvber 1, i sent a new mail to the Yeti dealer, informing about the situation, and got the answer that they would contact Yeti.
    I made the first video and sent them so they had some documentation to give Yeti.

    2018-Nov-6
    Yeti replys to the dealer, saying “That`s a strange one......”bla bla bla and request i check the four bolts i already have torqued and used loctite on.
    They also suggests i check the pre-load of the SI, and even tighten it a bit more...

    2018-Nov 7 to dec 3
    A lot back and forth, i take the bike to the Yeti dealer on request from Yeti...
    And so on...

    December 7 i send a mail direct to Yeti, all this back and forth is a complete nonsense....
    December 10, i get an reply from Yeti and i have to go through all this again, yes i have checked the bolts....
    yes i have checked the pre-load
    yes i hav..... and so on...
    “If you like i can send you a second video, even if you already have the first one, ok i do that.....

    This goes on with 29 emails back and forth until January 19, now i don´t stand this anymore, i give up... Yeti “won”!
    My perception of Yetis conclusion is; that as long as the bike hold up, not cracks, this is as it`s suppose to be...



    I like Yeti bikes, no i love Yeti bikes... i think they rides incredible and looks just awesome.... but this whole process makes me... neh... not very impressed.
    My wife has one SB95 and this was my fifth and last Yeti....

    Sorry for the nag...
    I checked mine. There is a slight flex when I hold the rear brake and put pressure on the pedal but nowhere near the 10-20mm you have. The flex I have is about what I would expect. I'd say maybe 5mm and I'd guess I'm putting more than 30 lbs of pressure on it.

  62. #62
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    Nikno,

    Maybe you have already come to this conclusion, but based on what you have reported, I would speculate the swingarm and possibly the frame contact points with the SI hardware have ovalized. This is the result of the bolts backing out as they were not properly torqued in and lack of Loctite. While riding, these loose bolts put extreme stress on the frame/swingarm, causing the ovalization in the carbon. It is doubtful this is repairable by a home mechanic or at the dealer. It’s not your fault this happened, but it is surprising Yeti is fighting this warranty claim.

    Please do not give up, it sounds like you are in the right on this. I’m sure a lot of people of this forum would like to see this resolved for you.
    "Who are you?"
    "That's a long story." -Christopher Walken, The Prophecy

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by kermit_xc View Post
    Just like tmc, I replaced the shaft with four female bolts ... creaks are gone after jumping few curbs in the neighborhood.

    Before


    After
    I’m still running the original spacers. No creaks once both sides of the Stantions are greased properly. I have no flex whatsoever and no noises at all. Mine is the 1st edition which I got in June last year. To be honest I don’t like the look of the new solution due to the lack of support between the tabs holding the linkage on. I would see how without this support it would cause the flex issues that people are experiencing. I am happy to stick with the original spacers and grease periodically throughout the year. Good excuse to give it a proper clean down also. Love my sb100. Hands down the best bike I’ve owned and I’ve had a few.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Nikno,

    Maybe you have already come to this conclusion, but based on what you have reported, I would speculate the swingarm and possibly the frame contact points with the SI hardware have ovalized. This is the result of the bolts backing out as they were not properly torqued in and lack of Loctite. While riding, these loose bolts put extreme stress on the frame/swingarm, causing the ovalization in the carbon. It is doubtful this is repairable by a home mechanic or at the dealer. It’s not your fault this happened, but it is surprising Yeti is fighting this warranty claim.

    Please do not give up, it sounds like you are in the right on this. I’m sure a lot of people of this forum would like to see this resolved for you.
    Thanks for your support Maluco,

    I tried e-mailing Yeti after i read your pep-talk, but i have not received any answer from them, usually they reply within a day or two.

  65. #65
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    That’s a shame Nikno, it also does not sound like your dealer is much help either.

    Maybe it is time to consider a different approach.

    Based on your information, Yeti is saying 10 to 20mm of swingarm movement is normal on the SB100 and not a warranty issue, then consider posting an educational video on YouTube. This review would provide critical information to thousands of viewers and potential buyers on what to possibly expect with their SB100 and from Yeti if they inquire about this swingarm movement. It would be interesting to see if Yeti will respond to this video and your situation.

    Most companies want to do the right thing, just some need encouragement.
    "Who are you?"
    "That's a long story." -Christopher Walken, The Prophecy

  66. #66
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    For those with flex issues, you might want to read this article:

    https://flowmountainbike.com/tests/t...00-bike-loved/


  67. #67
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    I don't feel the rear of my SB100 being flexy.

    Or am I just numb to everything?

    Seriously, I have a current model aluminum Trek Fuel EX with the full floater shock. The rear end of THAT bike is significantly more flexy than any other bike I've ever ridden. If you look at the design of the Trek, you'll see that the rear shock is not attached to the front triangle at all. And the rear triangle is attached ONLY to the seat tube in 2 points(main pivot and rocker pivot). This allows for significantly more lateral flex. Trek fixed this with the new Remedy and Slash by eliminating the full floater design and attaching the lower shock mount to right above the BB.

    Maybe the rear of the SB100 is super flexy and I've just been so used to riding flexy bikes? I dunno. But without video proof or personally experiencing it myself, I'll take #flexgate and #creakgate with a grain of salt.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  68. #68
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    I came off an evil following v1 that had noticably more flex than the sb100. Funny after reading that article from flow I went and checked again this morning and it does not appear to have much flex at all. I'm 190 and someone who pushes the line of the intended use of this bike and I have no complaints with flex or noise. I could feel the following flex when I jammed it into a corner. That's just not the case with the sb. I never rode it with the old style hardware. I wonder why there seems to be such a wide variance in user experiences. I guess those of us without the issues should consider ourselves quite lucky. I would think that the ideal design for the fix would have been something like this:
    Yeti SB100 Switch  suspension Creek-img_4811.jpg

    As I see it if they just made the female side of the bolts 1 piece that was solid in the midde with female threads it would provide the support of the original one without the pin in the middle that was making it creak. Excuse my terrible drawing.

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    I never rode it with the old style hardware.
    There’s the answer to your question

  70. #70
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    I'm aware of what a flexy bike feels like. My 100 is not flexy. I can appreciate that other peoples are. I'm certainly not saying that the problems arent real, just that it's not something that I'm seeing on mine, at least yet.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by hifiandmtb View Post
    For those with flex issues, you might want to read this article:

    https://flowmountainbike.com/tests/t...00-bike-loved/

    This article mimics every reason as to why the rear end of the SB100 moves laterally as much as it does with the SI fix kit installed. For 6 months, many of us have made identical comments to the feeling and the reason as to why it has been happening after the SI hardware fix. The bottom line is that a V2 (version 2) SI fix is a must for Yeti to put out to it's clientele. Nothing more, nothing less. V1 doesn't work, period.
    2019 SB130
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  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    There’s the answer to your question
    What’s the answer? I never rode the first SI version but after riding my SB5.5 for almost 2 years with the same wheels on the same trails, my SB100 rear is just as solid with no lateral movement.

  73. #73
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    Cool. Not going to beat the dead horse... Happy to hear you can’t feel any difference between the bikes. Cheers.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    Cool. Not going to beat the dead horse... Happy to hear you can’t feel any difference between the bikes. Cheers.
    I’m not discounting your issues or others, but just pointing out my findings. This issue doesn’t appear to be as wide spread as some may think and some owners out there don’t even know there’s an update to the SI from what I’ve seen on the Yeti Facebook group. I also think buying any bike from a reputable dealer who will resolve any issue you have is a big advantage.

  75. #75
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    This seems to be getting close to be solved now...

    I did disassable the whole rear end before the weekend, previously i just removed the screws holding the SI leving the «pins» in, but now i discovered something that can explain the issue...

    1. I removed the whole SI, all the screws where tight.
    2. Put the bolts for holding the SI back in, and checked the tightness / clearing.
    The two on the non-drive side, is perfectly tight, no wallowing.
    The upper on the drive side has a noticeable wallow.
    The lower on the drive side has significant wollowing and the facing for the
    SI-stanchions seems to have significant wear compared to the 3 others.

    Today i got a message from Yeti that they will have a new front triangle with SI and HW sent to me as soon as the formalities is ok with the Yeti dealer.

    I think this would have been solved a lot earlier if i just have checked this thorough to begin with, so my perception know is that Yetis warranty is working super, and i owe them an apology for dragging this out and not check this thorough from the start...

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nikno View Post
    This seems to be getting close to be solved now...

    I did disassable the whole rear end before the weekend, previously i just removed the screws holding the SI leving the «pins» in, but now i discovered something that can explain the issue...

    1. I removed the whole SI, all the screws where tight.
    2. Put the bolts for holding the SI back in, and checked the tightness / clearing.
    The two on the non-drive side, is perfectly tight, no wallowing.
    The upper on the drive side has a noticeable wallow.
    The lower on the drive side has significant wollowing and the facing for the
    SI-stanchions seems to have significant wear compared to the 3 others.

    Today i got a message from Yeti that they will have a new front triangle with SI and HW sent to me as soon as the formalities is ok with the Yeti dealer.

    I think this would have been solved a lot earlier if i just have checked this thorough to begin with, so my perception know is that Yetis warranty is working super, and i owe them an apology for dragging this out and not check this thorough from the start...
    Glad you got this sorted out with Yeti. I hope you're more thorough with this frame(and future frames) when it comes to torque specs. In the end, it becomes your responsibility when you're the one riding it.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Glad you got this sorted out with Yeti. I hope you're more thorough with this frame(and future frames) when it comes to torque specs. In the end, it becomes your responsibility when you're the one riding it.
    Maybe my formulation is a bit off, but if you read my earlier post, i hope i made it clear that i checked the torque of the screws and the SI preload etc...

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