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  1. #1701
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    I weigh roughly the same as you, maybe a little heavier.

    Rear shock - 32% sag. Full open. Rebound is 6 clicks from full open.

    Fork - 23-25% sag. Open. 2 clicks LSC from open. Rebound is 13 clicks from open.

    I don't use calculators since they're generally too soft or too stiff. They're a good baseline, but you'd need to make adjustments yourself to get the most out of it.
    Whar pressures are you running in the rear shock and fork?

  2. #1702
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Whar pressures are you running in the rear shock and fork?
    I'm running the pressures needed to get the sag I'm running hahaha. In all seriousness, I forgot. The actual value of the pressures aren't as important as getting the proper sag percentage since each person has their bike set up differently, have different sizing, and different seated or attack positions. Even if we weigh the same and you use the numerical value of my pressures, you may not achieve the same sag as I do with my bike.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  3. #1703
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    Yeah I would not depend on the calculators. Set pressure for sag and performance. So much depends on bike setup, how you hold your weight, etc.

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  4. #1704
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    Do the SB-100 frames ship with the new version of the SI?

    Yep, I've decided to go with the SB-100 after waiting 7 years for Ibis to get the Ripley right. And to be honest I think I'm going to be happier. I just want to get the newer version of the SI.

    Yay!
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  5. #1705
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregg K View Post
    Do the SB-100 frames ship with the new version of the SI?

    Yep, I've decided to go with the SB-100 after waiting 7 years for Ibis to get the Ripley right. And to be honest I think I'm going to be happier. I just want to get the newer version of the SI.

    Yay!
    Yes

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  6. #1706
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Yes

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    Thanks.
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  7. #1707
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    I may have missed it in this thread, but in case it wasn't posted, I just read about how to preload the SI. Here's what they said-

    Preloading the Switch.

    What we didn’t know, and is not written into the online service manual, is that the preload on the Switch assembly’s bushes can be adjusted. Via four small allen keys, the Switch bushing can be loaded, creating a tighter fit around the two little Kashima coated Switch sliders.

    Preloading the Switch reduced the majority of the play, though it increased the binding friction on the sliders significantly. With careful incremental adjustments, we settled on a preload tension that was tight enough to limit play, yet still allowed free movement. It’s a slightly fiddly procedure, and certainly an easy one for home mechanics to stuff up.

    https://flowmountainbike.com/tests/t...00-bike-loved/
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  8. #1708
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    After about 600 miles I checked my v2 switch infinity bolts. They were tight. Good news.

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  9. #1709
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    Thanks to everyone in this thread and beyond. I'm absolutely in love with my new SB100, and I wanted to share my build specs and photos:

    https://medium.com/@briandoll/my-dre...0-28a3f54357e4

    The build:

    • Yeti SB100 ’19 frame, size Large
    • Fox Stepcast 34 in Factory Orange w/ 44mm offset (custom orange lowers installed on black fork, as Fox does not yet make Factory orange in 44mm)
    • Industry Nine A35 50mm stem, in turquoise and orange — absolutely love this detail, and very happy with the short stem
    • Enve M7 Carbon Mountain Handlebar, cut to 780mm — carbon bars are such a comfy upgrade; I wanted strong bars, so opted for M7 vs M6
    • Chris King Dropset 1 Headset in Mango — no question
    • Ergon GA3 grips in orange — extremely comfortable climbing and descending
    • Wolftooth Dropper remote — love the feel and action on this remote
    • SRAM Guide RSC brakes — the reach and grip adjustments are perfect, and the larger discs are incredibly powerful
    • Garmin Edge Mountain Bike Mount — great fit on the 35mm bars, and not protruding like a telescope like the road mount. It would fit cleanly over the headset, but I, uh, want to see that pretty headset and stem, so.
    • Blackburn Mud Guard — it rained buckets this winter, so I think I’ll always run one of these
    • Arundel Sport Bottle Cage — a Yeti with a bottle cage in the front triangle! Best color match around!
    • SRAM X01 Eagle drivetrain — with GX crankset, aluminum for durability
    • Wolftooth 30t chainring — Lots of climbing on this bike
    • Crankbrothers Mallet-E pedals in blue (turquoise) — love the larger platform, bummed none of the CB pedals have adjustable tension
    • Fox Factory Transfer 175mm dropper post — I’m 6'1" and its so nice to have this much drop on a frame like this
    • Ergon SM Pro Mountain Saddle — incredibly comfortable, light, and responsive
    • We Are One Composites 29" Insider carbon rims laced to Industry Nine Hydra hubs in Orange — these wheels are so insanely light, and the Hydra sound has me buzzing with joy
    • Industry Nine tubeless valve stems in orange — when you go full custom, you go full custom
    • Lezyne Road Caddy Saddle Bag — I carry a tubolito (super tiny emergency tube, highly recommended!), c02, multi-tool, tire iron, bacon strips, and local trail access cards in this super tiny saddle bag that stays put, always
    • USWE Airborne 3L adventure pack — the bottle cage on this gen of Yeti’s is very handy, but for longer rides I’ve been blown away with the USWE Airborne bag. The bounce-free design, 3L of water, phone holder, pockets and strap system are perfectly designed.

  10. #1710
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    Switch preload procedure. I don’t think this has been posted.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-e935864a-f83f-44e5-846e-9b39adad21c1.jpeg  


  11. #1711
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarinDirtRider View Post
    Thanks to everyone in this thread and beyond. I'm absolutely in love with my new SB100, and I wanted to share my build specs and photos:

    https://medium.com/@briandoll/my-dre...0-28a3f54357e4

    The build:

    • Yeti SB100 ’19 frame, size Large
    • Fox Stepcast 34 in Factory Orange w/ 44mm offset (custom orange lowers installed on black fork, as Fox does not yet make Factory orange in 44mm)
    • Industry Nine A35 50mm stem, in turquoise and orange — absolutely love this detail, and very happy with the short stem
    • Enve M7 Carbon Mountain Handlebar, cut to 780mm — carbon bars are such a comfy upgrade; I wanted strong bars, so opted for M7 vs M6
    • Chris King Dropset 1 Headset in Mango — no question
    • Ergon GA3 grips in orange — extremely comfortable climbing and descending
    • Wolftooth Dropper remote — love the feel and action on this remote
    • SRAM Guide RSC brakes — the reach and grip adjustments are perfect, and the larger discs are incredibly powerful
    • Garmin Edge Mountain Bike Mount — great fit on the 35mm bars, and not protruding like a telescope like the road mount. It would fit cleanly over the headset, but I, uh, want to see that pretty headset and stem, so.
    • Blackburn Mud Guard — it rained buckets this winter, so I think I’ll always run one of these
    • Arundel Sport Bottle Cage — a Yeti with a bottle cage in the front triangle! Best color match around!
    • SRAM X01 Eagle drivetrain — with GX crankset, aluminum for durability
    • Wolftooth 30t chainring — Lots of climbing on this bike
    • Crankbrothers Mallet-E pedals in blue (turquoise) — love the larger platform, bummed none of the CB pedals have adjustable tension
    • Fox Factory Transfer 175mm dropper post — I’m 6'1" and its so nice to have this much drop on a frame like this
    • Ergon SM Pro Mountain Saddle — incredibly comfortable, light, and responsive
    • We Are One Composites 29" Insider carbon rims laced to Industry Nine Hydra hubs in Orange — these wheels are so insanely light, and the Hydra sound has me buzzing with joy
    • Industry Nine tubeless valve stems in orange — when you go full custom, you go full custom
    • Lezyne Road Caddy Saddle Bag — I carry a tubolito (super tiny emergency tube, highly recommended!), c02, multi-tool, tire iron, bacon strips, and local trail access cards in this super tiny saddle bag that stays put, always
    • USWE Airborne 3L adventure pack — the bottle cage on this gen of Yeti’s is very handy, but for longer rides I’ve been blown away with the USWE Airborne bag. The bounce-free design, 3L of water, phone holder, pockets and strap system are perfectly designed.
    Now I see the pic link. You built it up beefy, no weight weenie here. Now you need a matching orange Wolftooth seat clamp and you are all set. Looks great.

  12. #1712
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    What’s “insanely light” with regards to the wheelset? Great build 👍





    Quote Originally Posted by MarinDirtRider View Post
    We Are One Composites 29" Insider carbon rims laced to Industry Nine Hydra hubs in Orange — these wheels are so insanely light, and the Hydra sound has me buzzing with joy

  13. #1713
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    This review has them at 1715g for the 29" wheels: Review: We Are One Insider Wheels - The Loam Wolf

    I say insanely light because I rode this bike for three weeks before the wheels were built and shipped, and the difference (had some aluminum demo shop wheels on previously) was incredible. The back end feels like its not even there, so flicking the bike around now just feels effortless. It had such a lightweight feel that I got off my bike to check to see if something was wrong the first two rides. Absolutely love them.

    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    What’s “insanely light” with regards to the wheelset? Great build 👍

  14. #1714
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarinDirtRider View Post
    This review has them at 1715g for the 29" wheels: Review: We Are One Insider Wheels - The Loam Wolf

    I say insanely light because I rode this bike for three weeks before the wheels were built and shipped, and the difference (had some aluminum demo shop wheels on previously) was incredible. The back end feels like its not even there, so flicking the bike around now just feels effortless. It had such a lightweight feel that I got off my bike to check to see if something was wrong the first two rides. Absolutely love them.
    Ya, I wouldn't call them insanely light. IMHO Nox Teocalli's at 1464g,240 hubs,alloy nipples are the lightest, yet most durable carbon wheels to buy for any 100-120 bike. I demoed an SB100 with your same wheels,240 hubs and I liked them a a lot.

  15. #1715
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    MarinDirtRider:

    Did you have chance to weigh your SB100?

  16. #1716
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    Not yet, but I'm planning to. And funny about the comment earlier about the seatpost collar, my Turquose Yeti collar just came in today. If I knew about the orange Wolftooth collar I probably would have gotten that one. It's on the list!


    Quote Originally Posted by dickrich View Post
    MarinDirtRider:

    Did you have chance to weigh your SB100?

  17. #1717
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregg K View Post
    Do the SB-100 frames ship with the new version of the SI?

    Yep, I've decided to go with the SB-100 after waiting 7 years for Ibis to get the Ripley right. And to be honest I think I'm going to be happier. I just want to get the newer version of the SI.

    Yay!
    New Ripley V4 announced today. Just joking with you.

    Seriously, always happens. Buy something different and the thing you've been waiting for comes out a week later. And if you had waited, nothing would have been released.

  18. #1718
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    New Ripley V4 announced today. Just joking with you.

    Seriously, always happens. Buy something different and the thing you've been waiting for comes out a week later. And if you had waited, nothing would have been released.
    I knew about it last week, which is why I went with the SB100. It's not a Ripley without eccentrics. And now that I've seen the bike, I'd rather have the Yeti.
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  19. #1719
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregg K View Post
    I knew about it last week, which is why I went with the SB100. It's not a Ripley without eccentrics. And now that I've seen the bike, I'd rather have the Yeti.
    What do you like more about the yeti?

  20. #1720
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    I didn't want to go slacker than 68 degrees. Also I wanted to keep the wheelbase short. And I like the leverage and antisquat curves. And the integrated headset. And after years of not wanting a press fit bottom bracket I stumbled onto bbinfinite which I think is better than threaded. I'm a mechanical engineer, which does not mean I know what I'm talking about. But I really like the way it works, as well as giving the frame more meat in that area.
    I just got the frame tonight, and I'm ecstatic. I'm running the numbers now, and I must be missing something because it's coming in around 22 pounds. Yikes.
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  21. #1721
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregg K View Post
    I didn't want to go slacker than 68 degrees. Also I wanted to keep the wheelbase short. And I like the leverage and antisquat curves. And the integrated headset. And after years of not wanting a press fit bottom bracket I stumbled onto bbinfinite which I think is better than threaded. I'm a mechanical engineer, which does not mean I know what I'm talking about. But I really like the way it works, as well as giving the frame more meat in that area.
    I just got the frame tonight, and I'm ecstatic. I'm running the numbers now, and I must be missing something because it's coming in around 22 pounds. Yikes.
    I think that weight is on paper with advertised weights, no? I dont see a 100 getting the weight that low as the frame is pretty heavy but I suppose I could be wrong. Good luck man, Its a ripping bike. I dont think youll be dissapointed regardless of the weight it comes in at.

  22. #1722
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    I think that weight is on paper with advertised weights, no? I dont see a 100 getting the weight that low as the frame is pretty heavy but I suppose I could be wrong. Good luck man, Its a ripping bike. I dont think youll be dissapointed regardless of the weight it comes in at.
    I'm still shaking my head in disbelief. I've weighed the parts. The only things left to arrive are AXS and brakes. I'll post it here when it's done. The hardest part is the brakes arrive in late June. Trickstuff takes 6 months.
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  23. #1723
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregg K View Post
    I'm still shaking my head in disbelief. I've weighed the parts. The only things left to arrive are AXS and brakes. I'll post it here when it's done. The hardest part is the brakes arrive in late June. Trickstuff takes 6 months.
    I got Trickstuff brakes quickly. I watch a few of the German sites and sometimes they get them in as stock. I jumped in them and got the quickly.

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  24. #1724
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    For any one who's ridden the SB100 and the new Ripley, your thoughts would be much appreciated.

    Thanks

  25. #1725
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    I'm so stoked about this bike. In a way it's more fun that some of the parts aren't here yet. I think the rs-1 forks totally match the frame. It has been years in the making. I can wait another two months for parts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-img_2440.jpg  

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  26. #1726
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    MTByumyum on YouTube has a 100
    And just did a big review of the ripley and live stream comparing the two. Sounds like it turns it up to 11. Just that little extra.

  27. #1727
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    Looks good man

  28. #1728
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    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    MTByumyum on YouTube has a 100
    And just did a big review of the ripley and live stream comparing the two. Sounds like it turns it up to 11. Just that little extra.
    Thanks! Just watched it. I got the right bike. Yes!
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  29. #1729
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    https://youtu.be/MIeL4Dk8Fr4

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  30. #1730
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    Does anyone know where info on setting up the rear shock is? I don't see anything in the user manual. I thought I saw something somewhere that gave rear shock pressure in terms of a percentage of rider weight.

    I don't see any reference to sag either, not that I could measure it with reasonable accuracy anyways.

    Just wondering how to set this thing up.
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  31. #1731
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregg K View Post
    Does anyone know where info on setting up the rear shock is? I don't see anything in the user manual. I thought I saw something somewhere that gave rear shock pressure in terms of a percentage of rider weight.

    I don't see any reference to sag either, not that I could measure it with reasonable accuracy anyways.

    Just wondering how to set this thing up.
    https://www.yeticycles.com/bikes/sb1...rt-shock-setup

  32. #1732
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    Check the Yeti site. Sweet little calculator that tells you all the numbers settings you seek.

  33. #1733
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    Hey thanks guys!

    I just put pedals on it and rode it down the driveway without brakes or chain. Holy cow this thing is stiff. I'm loving this bike.
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  34. #1734
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    Hi all...I've narrowed my search down to an SB100 Turq XO1 with carbon wheels and an SC Blur TR CC XO1.

    What are you all seeing for real world weights, with pedals and cage, for the aforementioned SB100? (Understanding that not all carbon wheels are created equal)

    TIA!


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  35. #1735
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    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Hi all...I've narrowed my search down to an SB100 Turq XO1 with carbon wheels and an SC Blur TR CC XO1.

    What are you all seeing for real world weights, with pedals and cage, for the aforementioned SB100? (Understanding that not all carbon wheels are created equal)

    TIA!


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    sub 25lbs are very doable with a dropper, some friends of mine with burlier sb100 are around 27 lbs, you can get it down to close to 23lbs I believe if you go all weight weenie

    I honestly don’t see a reason to buy yeti builds, they don’t look very well planned for the sb100! dhf and aggressor, burly alloy wheels... I can’t understand!

  36. #1736
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Hi all...I've narrowed my search down to an SB100 Turq XO1 with carbon wheels and an SC Blur TR CC XO1.

    What are you all seeing for real world weights, with pedals and cage, for the aforementioned SB100? (Understanding that not all carbon wheels are created equal)

    TIA!


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    Full trail mode.
    I’m at just over 27lbs on my XO1 build
    NOX Farlow 28h laced to Chris King hubs.
    Blur is cool. Not as slack. Not as unique.
    VPP is tried and true.
    Switch infinity is pretty damn cool.
    I had an SC. Then I got the switch itch again and sold it.
    Got the 100 and love it.
    Last edited by rks; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:37 PM. Reason: Wrong rim

  37. #1737
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    sub 25lbs are very doable with a dropper, some friends of mine with burlier sb100 are around 27 lbs, you can get it down to close to 23lbs I believe if you go all weight weenie

    I honestly don’t see a reason to buy yeti builds, they don’t look very well planned for the sb100! dhf and aggressor, burly alloy wheels... I can’t understand!
    I’d be pretty happy in the 25’s, which would cut 3+ lbs off my current Primer weight.

    And agreed re those build components. The shop will swap out the alloy wheels for carbon hoops and I9’s, and I’ll pull those tires and go with something much lighter.


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  38. #1738
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    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    Full trail mode.
    I’m at just over 27lbs on my XO1 build
    NOX Kitsuma 28h laced to Chris King hubs.
    Blur is cool. Not as slack. Not as unique.
    VPP is tried and true.
    Switch infinity is pretty damn cool.
    I had an SC. Then I got the switch itch again and sold it.
    Got the 100 and love it.
    Great to hear! Strongly leaning towards the 100...


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  39. #1739
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    I’d be pretty happy in the 25’s, which would cut 3+ lbs off my current Primer weight.

    And agreed re those build components. The shop will swap out the alloy wheels for carbon hoops and I9’s, and I’ll pull those tires and go with something much lighter.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    My Large Turquoise color w/ invisiframe is right at 27#. Black without invisiframe will drop about a 1/2#. My Nox Farlow wheel set is about 1660g, XT brakes, Next SL, 360g pedals, 170 one up dropper, X01 Eagle, 250g Enve DH bar, Hans Dampf 832g, NN rear 753g. Great tire combo and grip, but you could run NN also on front or Bontager combo to drop more weight.

    Bike has minimal if any wallow when climbing.

  40. #1740
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chicane32 View Post
    My Large Turquoise color w/ invisiframe is right at 27#. Black without invisiframe will drop about a 1/2#. My Nox Farlow wheel set is about 1660g, XT brakes, Next SL, 360g pedals, 170 one up dropper, X01 Eagle, 250g Enve DH bar, Hans Dampf 832g, NN rear 753g. Great tire combo and grip, but you could run NN also on front or Bontager combo to drop more weight.

    Bike has minimal if any wallow when climbing.
    Thanks for the info, and great to hear re the lack of wallow. Huge for me.


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  41. #1741
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    26# here... XX1, Fox 34 at 130, 481s laced to i9s, Enve m6 bar, XTR pedals, Magura trail brakes, large and black.

    Would like to lose at least 2 pounds for marathon-esque races.

  42. #1742
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    Some great ideas in here, some of which I am doing :
    https://www.probikesupply.com/a/s/bl...0-is-not-heavy


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    Here is my new build. First ride today at Hawes. Sits 25.5 with borrowed 27.5 mid plus wheels. Should be about 24 pounds 12 ounces when i finish my wheelset 1475 grams with 2.6 front and 2.35 rear

    FYI Walt Yeti large frame in raw came in 2 ounces lighter then Tallboy 3
    Ive been on Santa Cruzes for many years but the Yeti suspension is a lot better
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-screen-shot-2019-05-10-4.30.23-pm.jpg  


  44. #1744
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    Quote Originally Posted by newoldskool View Post
    Here is my new build. First ride today at Hawes. Sits 25.5 with borrowed 27.5 mid plus wheels. Should be about 24 pounds 12 ounces when i finish my wheelset 1475 grams with 2.6 front and 2.35 rear

    FYI Walt Yeti large frame in raw came in 2 ounces lighter then Tallboy 3
    Ive been on Santa Cruzes for many years but the Yeti suspension is a lot better
    Seems way light based on what I see in your build. Can you list the build?

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  45. #1745
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    25 lbs (on bathroom scale) black large with fox 34sc, Mavic Crossmax Carbon hoops, X01, xt/xtr brakes, transfer 150, ralph/ray 2.25 SS, enve m6 bar cut to 750mm, pro 60mm renthal stem, xtr pedals, enve cage, silicon grips, turnix carbon saddle.

    Will get a bit lighter when the rear brake goes XTR and I shorten the cables.

    I tried and don't want a 80mm dropper, even for XC because I can go way faster on technical downhills with the 150 and it is MUCH more fun!Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-sb100.jpg

  46. #1746
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    Pike fork 4 lbs, XTR Race brakes 200g, Divine SL dropper 388 grams post only, SDG Ti saddle 195g , XX1 shifter, cassette 275g,
    XO1 Der ,11 speed which is lighter, Race Face next R 460g with 28 tooth, Ashima Rotors 96g,75g , Xpedo pedals 275g,
    Wheels are borrowed off my other bikes Front is light 680 grams carbon cxray spokes am classic hub, Rear is heavy onyx hub alloy rim cxray spokes , Yeti bars ,Kalloy stem

  47. #1747
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    Quote Originally Posted by newoldskool View Post
    Here is my new build. First ride today at Hawes. Sits 25.5 with borrowed 27.5 mid plus wheels. Should be about 24 pounds 12 ounces when i finish my wheelset 1475 grams with 2.6 front and 2.35 rear

    FYI Walt Yeti large frame in raw came in 2 ounces lighter then Tallboy 3
    Ive been on Santa Cruzes for many years but the Yeti suspension is a lot better
    Awesome! Hawes is my backyard...hope to see you on there, and we’ll compare!


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  48. #1748
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    I’ve been comparing and deciding between the SB100 and the SC Blur TR, and have decided on the Yeti. Here is my thought process for those that are interested and doing the same sort of research and comparison. This is from my thread in the 29er Bikes forum.

    So I talked myself out of the Blur TR, and have ordered an SB100 - Turq XO1 build, Large, in black, with upgraded carbon wheels (custom; not the upgrade on the website).

    Why, you ask? Here you go:
    1. Putting a leg over it, and doing the parking lot test, the Yeti just “feels” right. Cockpit feels spacious and comfortable, and the bike looks and feels solid underneath you. I could easily envision being in the saddle all day on this bike. In comparison, the Blur is a little “less solid”, which I don’t mean in a negative way; rather, it’s just not as beefy a build, feel and look. Thinner, lighter tubing, and “feels” that way. I felt more confident on the Yeti.
    2. I absolutely hate the dual-lockout on the Blur, and the weird twist dropper activation. If I were to get the Blur, I would immediately send the rear shock in to get it converted to a 3-position lever, which entails 2-3 weeks and $200, which is unacceptable to me on a bike like that. Additionally, on this sort of bike, for my uses, I don’t “need” the front fork lockout either. Love it on my SS, where I am up and climbing quite a bit, but don’t need it on this bike. The Yeti’s setup is traditional and simple (no front remote, rear 3-pos lever). I’d also have to change out the dropper remote, so another PITA fix.
    3. Cable routing on the Blur around the bottle cage is aesthetically ugly, and a potential source of constant irritation.
    4. While I want a bike that is fast, efficient and an excellent climber, I also want a bike that is very trail-capable, and can handle rowdy/gnarly/chunky stuff. The Yeti clearly is better in this aspect, given the beefier feel and build, while also being recognized for being an amazingly efficient climber. And the Yeti seems like it would be more comfortable and fun on long marathon events, stage races and all-day-in-the-saddle 12/24 hour events.
    5. I don’t need more of an XC race whip, as I’m not worried about hammering races on a 22 lb bike. I think if that was my primary concern, I’d be more inclined to go with the Blur. But in terms of doing “some” XC racing-type stuff, while also wanting a more all-around capable bike (per #4 above), the Yeti is it.
    6. Weight difference is not that great. Yeti is 5.5 lbs with the shock (I think); Blur is 4.5 lbs without the shock, so adding in the shock on the Blur, what is that...1/2-2/3 of a pound less? Worth it, to me, for the “burliness” of the Yeti.
    7. While the black and white Blur looks real sharp, the black SB100, with the matching fork, is stunning, IMO. It’s a gorgeous bike.

    Anyway, that’s my thought process, and I’m pretty damn happy with my decision, and the process I went through.


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  49. #1749
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    I’ve been comparing and deciding between the SB100 and the SC Blur TR, and have decided on the Yeti. Here is my thought process for those that are interested and doing the same sort of research and comparison. This is from my thread in the 29er Bikes forum.

    So I talked myself out of the Blur TR, and have ordered an SB100 - Turq XO1 build, Large, in black, with upgraded carbon wheels (custom; not the upgrade on the website).

    Why, you ask? Here you go:
    1. Putting a leg over it, and doing the parking lot test, the Yeti just “feels” right. Cockpit feels spacious and comfortable, and the bike looks and feels solid underneath you. I could easily envision being in the saddle all day on this bike. In comparison, the Blur is a little “less solid”, which I don’t mean in a negative way; rather, it’s just not as beefy a build, feel and look. Thinner, lighter tubing, and “feels” that way. I felt more confident on the Yeti.
    2. I absolutely hate the dual-lockout on the Blur, and the weird twist dropper activation. If I were to get the Blur, I would immediately send the rear shock in to get it converted to a 3-position lever, which entails 2-3 weeks and $200, which is unacceptable to me on a bike like that. Additionally, on this sort of bike, for my uses, I don’t “need” the front fork lockout either. Love it on my SS, where I am up and climbing quite a bit, but don’t need it on this bike. The Yeti’s setup is traditional and simple (no front remote, rear 3-pos lever). I’d also have to change out the dropper remote, so another PITA fix.
    3. Cable routing on the Blur around the bottle cage is aesthetically ugly, and a potential source of constant irritation.
    4. While I want a bike that is fast, efficient and an excellent climber, I also want a bike that is very trail-capable, and can handle rowdy/gnarly/chunky stuff. The Yeti clearly is better in this aspect, given the beefier feel and build, while also being recognized for being an amazingly efficient climber. And the Yeti seems like it would be more comfortable and fun on long marathon events, stage races and all-day-in-the-saddle 12/24 hour events.
    5. I don’t need more of an XC race whip, as I’m not worried about hammering races on a 22 lb bike. I think if that was my primary concern, I’d be more inclined to go with the Blur. But in terms of doing “some” XC racing-type stuff, while also wanting a more all-around capable bike (per #4 above), the Yeti is it.
    6. Weight difference is not that great. Yeti is 5.5 lbs with the shock (I think); Blur is 4.5 lbs without the shock, so adding in the shock on the Blur, what is that...1/2-2/3 of a pound less? Worth it, to me, for the “burliness” of the Yeti.
    7. While the black and white Blur looks real sharp, the black SB100, with the matching fork, is stunning, IMO. It’s a gorgeous bike.

    Anyway, that’s my thought process, and I’m pretty damn happy with my decision, and the process I went through.


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    I am partial because I have the sb100. My friend bought a Blur is has his shock and fork at Fox right now removing that stuff. I have put this Yeti through so many different type of trails. It really amazes me each time. Suspension setup is key though. The rear shock setup needs to be just right.

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  50. #1750
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    The rear shock setup needs to be just right.

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    Curious, how do you set up a shock that has nearly no adjustments? Sag? I am asking because I am considering the SB100 but have been spoiled with very tunable shocks on my other bikes....

  51. #1751
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    Quote Originally Posted by JC822 View Post
    Curious, how do you set up a shock that has nearly no adjustments? Sag? I am asking because I am considering the SB100 but have been spoiled with very tunable shocks on my other bikes....
    Sag, Volume spacers, Dead on Rebound and of course the 10 click compression adjustment.
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  52. #1752
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    Quote Originally Posted by JC822 View Post
    Curious, how do you set up a shock that has nearly no adjustments? Sag? I am asking because I am considering the SB100 but have been spoiled with very tunable shocks on my other bikes....
    The Factory version shock has a 3 position open mode adjust on top of the open/medium/firm switch. And obviously rebound. It's not an X2 nor would I like it to be an X2. Set your sag to 32%, leave it in open, and set your rebound. Maybe play with volume spacers if necessary. Not everything needs 4-way adjustability. The rear shock works very well, but it needs to be set up exactly at 32%(per Yeti's recommendation). Otherwise, you'll blow through travel quickly or not use enough. If the shock still isn't working for you, get custom valving. However, I don't think I've read or heard of any complaints about the rear suspension on the SB100 as long as it has been set up properly. 32% is the magic number here. It feels off if there's too little or too much sag.

    The non-Factory shock I believe, lacks the 3 position open mode adjust.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  53. #1753
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    Yeah, I forgot that the DPS has the 3 position open adjust and is different from the DPX2. My apologies for that mistake as it's been a couple months since I rode my SB100 since I've been on the bigger bikes recently. I like the 1 position on the open mode adjust assuming your not dealing with a bunch of G-outs
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  54. #1754
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    I have a very dialed and near new Large 2019 SB100 XO1 Race for sale in the SoCal area if anyone is interested. It has 188 miles on it. Super fun and fantastic bike. PM me fore more details.

    https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sf...881902550.html

  55. #1755
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaktm View Post
    I have a very dialed and near new Large 2019 SB100 XO1 Race for sale in the SoCal area if anyone is interested. It has 188 miles on it. Super fun and fantastic bike. PM me fore more details.

    https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sf...881902550.html
    Very nice. Mind me asking why you're parting ways with it?

  56. #1756
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    Hey guys. Im looking at doing a bit of XC racing over here in the UK and want a faster rolling set of tyres but that are still capable as i need them for trail riding also. Currently on 2.4 XR4 and XR3. Any suggestions for a faster rolling combo for drier conditions but still with some cornering bite. Was thinking perhaps Racing Ray / Racing Ralph or perhaps Ikon / Aspen or XR3/XR2. Any suggestions?

  57. #1757
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Hey guys. Im looking at doing a bit of XC racing over here in the UK and want a faster rolling set of tyres but that are still capable as i need them for trail riding also. Currently on 2.4 XR4 and XR3. Any suggestions for a faster rolling combo for drier conditions but still with some cornering bite. Was thinking perhaps Racing Ray / Racing Ralph or perhaps Ikon / Aspen or XR3/XR2. Any suggestions?
    Vittoria Mezcal

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  58. #1758
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    On both ends ?

  59. #1759
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    Hi all,

    Been obsessing over size and fit, and have been reading through much of the thread. Some common themes seem to be the following:
    - SB100 sizing seems a bit “small”
    - If at the top end of the sizing range, size up

    I am 5’10” with a 32” inseam, and parking lot demoed the Large, and it felt great. That is what I’ve ordered.

    But I see some people say the Medium, for similar-sized riders, is more “playful”.

    Thoughts on the sizing of this bike? I do NOT like to run a super-extended seatpost, or have to run a >60mm stem, which seems to rule out the Medium for me.

    Again, I’m sure I’m overthinking this, but you know how it goes...LOL. Thanks for any input!


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  60. #1760
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    Large

    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Hi all,

    Been obsessing over size and fit, and have been reading through much of the thread. Some common themes seem to be the following:
    - SB100 sizing seems a bit “small”
    - If at the top end of the sizing range, size up

    I am 5’10” with a 32” inseam, and parking lot demoed the Large, and it felt great. That is what I’ve ordered.

    But I see some people say the Medium, for similar-sized riders, is more “playful”.

    Thoughts on the sizing of this bike? I do NOT like to run a super-extended seatpost, or have to run a >60mm stem, which seems to rule out the Medium for me.

    Again, I’m sure I’m overthinking this, but you know how it goes...LOL. Thanks for any input!


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    Go with the L. I am similar sized...love the L.

  61. #1761
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    I am 5’ 8” with a 31 inseam, and the Medium is a perfect fit, however I am showing about 2 miles of seatpost. In fact, I need to upgrade to a 175mm dropper in order for it to be reasonable.
    Hope this helps.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

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  62. #1762
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    I’m 5’10 with a 32 inseam. I test road a large and didn’t like it at all. Went with the medium and couldn’t be happier. The large felt much more xc because of how low I felt stretched over it. The medium feels better for the trail riding I do. I’m positioned more upright to pop off stuff, make the bike dance and get pitted, so pitted.
    It’s really a personal preference thing.
    I will say that a Large might have better resale value?

  63. #1763
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    As a few had eluded, it is a personal preference. However, I am 5' 8" and I run a medium - great fit with my stem, bar, and saddle choices. Based upon your height, a large would be seem to be a logical choice. I tested a number of stem lengths to get the "fit" that I wanted so you still have a little of flexibility. Also, the sweep of my bars (9 degree flat) was part of the equation. I come from the old school XC crowd so I run my stem low and a little stretched. Thank goodness for the new reach geometry.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  64. #1764
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    I'm also 5'10" with almost a 33" inseam. I demo'd a medium last year mainly to try out the new XTR that it was set up with but I had to bring it back after just a few minutes riding. Just felt really small and I had to keep raising the seatpost up and up. Just couldn't get comfortable on it. It would definitely be a large for me.

  65. #1765
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    Rks, good luck sorting through the opinions on medium or large mate. FWIW I am 180 with 32 inseem so also fit between the sizes. I have a medium sb5.5 and large sb100. I love them both and would not change the size of either. The strength of the medium 5.5 (45mm stem, 800 bars) is my ability to dominate it and it’s maneuverability. It’s very easy to move under me and is great smashing out rowdy rides. The sb100 (35mm stem 760 bars) has a slightly roomier cockpit, still loves to party but I find the more open setup is better for peddling xc / trail type environments. I think there’s no wrong answer just how you like to ride your bikes.

  66. #1766
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    If youre on the bubble I'd size up. I wish I'd gone XL. BTW, if anyone wants to trade...

  67. #1767
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    If youre on the bubble I'd size up. I wish I'd gone XL. BTW, if anyone wants to trade...
    This! The modern-geo bikes are designed for short stems. If a buyer needs to up-stem by a bunch they are in the wrong size. Or they should have bought an older design.

  68. #1768
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    If youre on the bubble I'd size up.
    Yeah, this is pretty much what I default to...I’m square in the bubble.



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  69. #1769
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    If youre on the bubble I'd size up. I wish I'd gone XL. BTW, if anyone wants to trade...
    There’s a black XL frame on Craig’s list here in Socal right now.

  70. #1770
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    On the 150 I'm glad I didnt size up so it has alot to do with the specific frame.

  71. #1771
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Hi all,

    Been obsessing over size and fit, and have been reading through much of the thread. Some common themes seem to be the following:
    - SB100 sizing seems a bit “small”
    - If at the top end of the sizing range, size up

    I am 5’10” with a 32” inseam, and parking lot demoed the Large, and it felt great. That is what I’ve ordered.

    But I see some people say the Medium, for similar-sized riders, is more “playful”.

    Thoughts on the sizing of this bike? I do NOT like to run a super-extended seatpost, or have to run a >60mm stem, which seems to rule out the Medium for me.

    Again, I’m sure I’m overthinking this, but you know how it goes...LOL. Thanks for any input!


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    Went back today to ride the Medium, just to see how I felt on it. Absolutely affirmed the Large for me. Medium with stock setup was just too tight. The Large is way more comfortable and just fits and feels better. The feedback from this thread definitely helped, and was borne out, in terms of sizing up if one is in the middle.


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  72. #1772
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    since we are talking sizes

    did anybody else notice yeti updated their size chart? there is a 2” intersection between sizes now which wasn’t there before

    s 5’1” to 5’7”
    m 5’5” to 5’11
    l 5’9 to 6’3”
    xl 6’1” to 6’7”

  73. #1773
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    since we are talking sizes

    did anybody else notice yeti updated their size chart? there is a 2” intersection between sizes now which wasn’t there before

    s 5’1” to 5’7”
    m 5’5” to 5’11
    l 5’9 to 6’3”
    xl 6’1” to 6’7”
    Yes, I saw that, and it helped me feel confident about a Large. I hadn't seen the previous chart, though...


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  74. #1774
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    I believe the start of the range is -2”, it used to start at a +2” compared to what it is now, same top range, so medium used to be 5’7”-5’11”

  75. #1775
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    This thread needed a new post...

    Counting down the days til my bike and wheels come in!
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  76. #1776
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    Where did you pickup your bike and what wheelset did you decide?
    Sent from the singletrack...

  77. #1777
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertVelo View Post
    Where did you pickup your bike and what wheelset did you decide?
    Steve at Airpark, and a set of his SLD carbon rims (30mm) laced to I9 Hydras.
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  78. #1778
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Steve at Airpark, and a set of his SLD carbon rims (30mm) laced to I9 Hydras.
    you should try Maxxis Rekon 2.4WT. compliments the bike so well with 30mm hoops.

  79. #1779
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    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    you should try Maxxis Rekon 2.4WT. compliments the bike so well with 30mm hoops.
    Ha...funny you say that; that is exactly what I'm going with in front! Still mulling over the rear though, as I don't know about running that in back, and the Agressor is bit much, IMO.
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  80. #1780
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Ha...funny you say that; that is exactly what I'm going with in front! Still mulling over the rear though, as I don't know about running that in back, and the Agressor is bit much, IMO.
    I’m running it Front and rear. It’s awesome.
    Such a fast rolling beefy tire. Of the whole Maxxis range the Rekon is the best fit for the 100. Ikon is too XC. Aggressor is to enduro bro. Rekon is full trail. Also, I’m running cushcore xc. The whole setup weights about the same as the DHF/aggressor combo. But i can run much lower pressure, I protect my carbon hoops, the ride is smoother and I don’t use as much travel.
    Never going back.

  81. #1781
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    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    I’m running it Front and rear. It’s awesome.
    Such a fast rolling beefy tire. Of the whole Maxxis range the Rekon is the best fit for the 100. Ikon is too XC. Aggressor is to enduro bro. Rekon is full trail. Also, I’m running cushcore xc. The whole setup weights about the same as the DHF/aggressor combo. But i can run much lower pressure, I protect my carbon hoops, the ride is smoother and I don’t use as much travel.
    Never going back.
    Just the kind of feedback I was looking for. I share your opinion re the Aggressor, and while I absolutely love Ikons, and run them on my SS and geared HT, I was thinking the same thing re the 100, and want a bit "more" on that bike. Rekon 2.4WT FTW!
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  82. #1782
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    Newest Vittoria Barzo is great.

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  83. #1783
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Steve at Airpark, and a set of his SLD carbon rims (30mm) laced to I9 Hydras.
    Funny... I purchased my SB100 from Steve as well. Did he build out the wheels with the kevlar spokes???
    Sent from the singletrack...

  84. #1784
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertVelo View Post
    Funny... I purchased my SB100 from Steve as well. Did he build out the wheels with the kevlar spokes???
    No, but he was showing those to me...wild!


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  85. #1785
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Newest Vittoria Barzo is great.

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    I’ll check them out...thanks!


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  86. #1786
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    Haha, I went the other direction. The 2.4 Ardent was too wimpy for truly aggressive downhills, so I am running a 2.5 DHF and a Double Down Agressor On The rear.
    No fVcks given.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

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  87. #1787
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Haha, I went the other direction. The 2.4 Ardent was too wimpy for truly aggressive downhills, so I am running a 2.5 DHF and a Double Down Agressor On The rear.
    No fVcks given.
    Damn bro, going so hard with a 4” bike.

  88. #1788
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Newest Vittoria Barzo is great.

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    Both ends or Mezcal in the back?

    Which Barzo model is best?

  89. #1789
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Both ends or Mezcal in the back?

    Which Barzo model is best?
    Either is a good combo determined by your preference and conditions.

    Mezcal, mezcal - dryer conditions. More xc but new versions are pretty tough. Fast, large volume. Doesn't like real mud.

    Barzo, mezcal - dry and damp without mud combo. Best of both.

    Barzo, Barzo - great all around. Barzo does extremely well in when it gets damp or wet. These tires will surprise you because they are a great all around tire. I have punished these tires and they are great. Best tire I think Vittoria makes really.

    In all cases, get the new 4 compound G2.0 xc-trail tires. These have the grey or anthracite side walls. The gum wall are XC only.

    https://www.competitivecyclist.com/v...JhcnpvIHRyYWls

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  90. #1790
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    That link doesnt work in the uk. What the model on the vittoria website? Which size are people running. Want them for a mix of xc racing and trail riding

  91. #1791
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    That link doesnt work in the uk. What the model on the vittoria website? Which size are people running. Want them for a mix of xc racing and trail riding
    I have run 2.35 front and back. Currently 2.35f, 2.25r, Barzo

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  92. #1792
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    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    you should try Maxxis Rekon 2.4WT. compliments the bike so well with 30mm hoops.
    What is it about the Rekon you like? I was going to go Ardent front and Ardent Race rear (use that combo on my SB5 in the summer and it’s been great.)
    But now wondering if the Rekon 2.4 is a better choice

  93. #1793
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    What is it about the Rekon you like? I was going to go Ardent front and Ardent Race rear (use that combo on my SB5 in the summer and it’s been great.)
    But now wondering if the Rekon 2.4 is a better choice
    Just about anything is a better choice than an Ardent as a front tire. Yeesh.


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  94. #1794
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Just about anything is a better choice than an Ardent as a front tire. Yeesh.


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    ^^This. I loathe the Ardent as a front tire.


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  95. #1795
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    What is it about the Rekon you like? I was going to go Ardent front and Ardent Race rear (use that combo on my SB5 in the summer and it’s been great.)
    But now wondering if the Rekon 2.4 is a better choice
    It’s got fast rolling center knobs with more aggressive cornering knobs. So you can have more of an “XC” pace and then get slashy and playful. Most important here is the WT IMO. I can kind of explain it but Maxxis does a better job here: https://www.maxxis.com/wide-trail-wt-design

    My “gimmick radar” is always on high alert but after giving it a try I’m a believer.

    I had the stock tires 2.3dhf/2.3aggressor on the stock 25mm rims. Then I went to 30mm Carbon rims. Then I started getting the itch for a tire setup better suited for full trail riding. People want to say “down country” which is funny. Maybe people think the 100 is a mini enduro rig. It’s not going to win hardcore XC races. (32% sag) ha.
    It’s a mountain bike. Just go out and enjoy kinda bike. Get some exercise, cover some miles, hit some jibs along the way, Manual some stuff, pop off stuff and make it home alive.

    The DHF/aggressor screams “full send”
    Good tire to spec it with (Marketing?)
    but there’s better choices out there.

    I tried the Ardent/ardent race combo and regretted it. Maybe this is just the 29r but the ardent race 2.35 ended up being wider than the regular ardent 2.4 on the 25mm rim, same pressure. Weird, but confirmed with my calipers. And it all rode weird imo.

    Ok, too much writing. One last thing, if you’ve got 25mm rims stay stock or go with that same combo you like on your 5. If you do go ardent 2.4 F/ ardent race 2.35 R let me know if you have the same experience.
    If you’ve got 30mm rims, Rekon 2.4WT front and rear is tits. Do it.

  96. #1796
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    Hey, it’s got 4.5” up front!
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

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  97. #1797
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    I run the dhf / aggressor combo and i dont think i would put any " less " tire on the bike as it would take away how much fun and capable the bike actually is

  98. #1798
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    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    One last thing, if you’ve got 25mm rims stay stock or go with that same combo you like on your 5. If you do go ardent 2.4 F/ ardent race 2.35 R let me know if you have the same experience.
    If you’ve got 30mm rims, Rekon 2.4WT front and rear is tits. Do it.
    Right in the middle - 27mm. I9 Trail 270 wheels
    So not sure if that’s too narrow for the 2.4WT

  99. #1799
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    I run the dhf / aggressor combo and i dont think i would put any " less " tire on the bike as it would take away how much fun and capable the bike actually is
    I was thinking the same thing.

    I’m also running Cuchcore XC.
    For 30+mm rims. I’d say running WT Rekon with low pressure is way better than the stock combo. It depends on where you’re riding too.
    The aggressor is bad ass. It’s like a boat anchor on the steeps. It’s also a boat anchor on the flats imo.
    And yeah the DHF is king but may be a bit overkill. It depends on the situation.

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    My rims are only 26mm so cant try wt tires . I dont find the aggressor that slow really

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