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  1. #1501
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    Anyone running 30mm ID wheels on their sb 100? Thinking of going a little wider.


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  2. #1502
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulc86 View Post
    Anyone running 30mm ID wheels on their sb 100? Thinking of going a little wider.


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    Yes I am. Works great. What do you need to know?

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  3. #1503
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Yes I am. Works great. What do you need to know?

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    Obviously no issues with clearance then? And how do they make the ride feel? Does the bike loose itís snappiness or anything? What brand did you go for?


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  4. #1504
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulc86 View Post
    Obviously no issues with clearance then? And how do they make the ride feel? Does the bike loose itís snappiness or anything? What brand did you go for?


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    Knight Composites 29 Enduro with P321 hubs. Run Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35 tires now and Vittoria Barzo in better weather. . No clearance or rubbing issues. I think the width just helps the bike conquer even more. I don't race, but do ride a lot of different terrain.

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  5. #1505
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    Can anyone signpost me to the correct cane creek 40 headset. I've just bought the wrong bloody ones

  6. #1506
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulc86 View Post
    Anyone running 30mm ID wheels on their sb 100? Thinking of going a little wider.


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    I am with 2.4 aggressor rear, 2.5 DHF front. No issues at all, plenty of clearance.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

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  7. #1507
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Can anyone signpost me to the correct cane creek 40 headset. I've just bought the wrong bloody ones
    40-Series - IS41/28.6/H9 | IS52/40 - Short Cover - Complete - Black - BAA0741K

  8. #1508
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    I am with 2.4 aggressor rear, 2.5 DHF front. No issues at all, plenty of clearance.
    I thought the aggressor only came in 2.3 or 2.5 for a 29er.

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  9. #1509
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    I thought the aggressor only came in 2.3 or 2.5 for a 29er.

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    Got it through QBP, any bike shop can order it for you. I think a 2.5 would be a wee bit too big on the rear.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

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  10. #1510
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    I thought the aggressor only came in 2.3 or 2.5 for a 29er.

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    The Aggressor only comes in 2.3 or 2.5 widths in 27.5 and 29. I've ran a 2.4wt Rekon on Nox Katsuma wheels which fits in the rear as well.
    2019 SB130
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  11. #1511
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Knight Composites 29 Enduro with P321 hubs. Run Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35 tires now and Vittoria Barzo in better weather. . No clearance or rubbing issues. I think the width just helps the bike conquer even more. I don't race, but do ride a lot of different terrain.

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    Thanks. I was going to get a set of spank oozy 345ís or maybe Dt 1501ís with 30mm ID. Like you I donít race this bike but do send her on so it would benefit from a set of durable wide wheels. Kept my ASR for racing only


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  12. #1512
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    Can anybody confirm or deny if a 2.5 on 30 ID rims fits the rear?

  13. #1513
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apexit View Post
    The Aggressor only comes in 2.3 or 2.5 widths in 27.5 and 29. I've ran a 2.4wt Rekon on Nox Katsuma wheels which fits in the rear as well.
    I have one on my bike, I'll post pics tonight.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

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  14. #1514
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    You guys were right, it's an Ardent and not an aggressor. Sorry!
    Last edited by rideit; 12-26-2018 at 09:01 PM.
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

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  15. #1515
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    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    The Yeti in its natural habitat.. Happy new year from Sweden!


  16. #1516
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    anyone have an issue with the rear axle backing out on it's own? had it happen twice

  17. #1517
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    I've got Enve m6 30 Wheels..
    With the original 2/3 minion dhf in front and 2/3 aggressor in the back
    .. I was a little worried about going with a wider wheel but as much research as I've done and studies are shown it makes for a much better ride ..much more stability and much more confidence and a stiffer wheel..
    Also you can run less air pressure.
    I live here in Northwest Arkansas. . It rides good on the chunky and good on the flowy trails
    I bought this for a trail bike I could not be happier with how it rides.
    Definitely glad I went with 30 id wheels . This bike is a rocket !

  18. #1518
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    Any more input from anyone else on the 30 i d wheels on the sb 100 ,with the 2/3 minion dhf in the front and 2/3 aggressor in the back what are your thoughts? . The only downfall would be 70 G added weight in the front and 70 grams added weight in the back..
    Not sure how noticeable that even is??

  19. #1519
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeman! View Post
    Any more input from anyone else on the 30 i d wheels on the sb 100 ,with the 2/3 minion dhf in the front and 2/3 aggressor in the back what are your thoughts? . The only downfall would be 70 G added weight in the front and 70 grams added weight in the back..
    Not sure how noticeable that even is??
    I have 30 ID wheels on mine (Raceface NEXT R) - no issues, rides great. I had the stock DHF/Agressors on with these wheels originally. Just swapped to some Ardent/Ardent Race tires for endurance XC type rides, so far so good on those as well.

  20. #1520
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    Quote Originally Posted by lzpup View Post
    anyone have an issue with the rear axle backing out on it's own? had it happen twice
    Yes! Started hearing some rear brake disc noise and then later i couldn't shift into the lowest gear. Found the rear axle very very loose! Tightened to spec and have ridden once since where it remained tight. Will be monitoring it closely

  21. #1521
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    Throw some blue locktite on it and will not happen anymore

  22. #1522
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulc86 View Post
    Anyone running 30mm ID wheels on their sb 100? Thinking of going a little wider.


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    I'm running DT XMC1200s with Bontrager XR4/3 at 2.4 front/rear. Love the rims, rolls great, perfect dry traction, can be interesting in mud.

  23. #1523
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    Are those 30 internal width

  24. #1524
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeman! View Post
    Are those 30 internal width
    yes

  25. #1525
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    After some trepidation, mostly from this thread, I pulled the trigger on a SB100 yesterday. Never had a Yeti before, but have had numerous Pivots, Ibis (Ibii?) and some others in the past. I was holding out for a new Ripley LS with longer geo and lighter weight, but who knows what the future brings as far as that. I want a bike that I can ride anywhere, any day, that won't have any limitations short of a nasty enduro course or bike park. Been riding a Ripley LS and Pivot 429SL (120mm fork, dropper, etc) mainly with a Ripmo for gnarlier stuff. I'm hoping the SB100 can be a bit like the Ripley but lighter and sprightlier. Then I can revert the 429SL back to 100mm front and rigid post for lightweight XC duty where it shines best. Hopefully the issues discussed have either been fixed or won't appear on my bike. Looking forward to ripping on this thing (well as best as my almost-60-yr-old ass can).
    Yeti SB100
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  26. #1526
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    After a long wait for my forks from FOX (no UK stock) i hope to be building mine at the weekend for just the kind of riding you are talking about. Cant wait

  27. #1527
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    BmanInTheD, I had a Ripley LS, OG Ripley, Tallboy and have a Ripmo and SB100. The Ripley LS and SB100 are similar in many ways, though the SB is a little "lower" feeling. Both are very playful and I think the SB may even have an edge in playfulness, which is good. Unfortunately, the SB100 frame is not light. It's heavier than my Ripley LS frame and, I believe heavier than my Ripmo frame. My biggest disappointment with the frame is how heavy it is and concern about SI maintenance. Fortunately, so far I've had no SI issues at all and love the frame.

  28. #1528
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaktm View Post
    BmanInTheD, I had a Ripley LS, OG Ripley, Tallboy and have a Ripmo and SB100. The Ripley LS and SB100 are similar in many ways, though the SB is a little "lower" feeling. Both are very playful and I think the SB may even have an edge in playfulness, which is good. Unfortunately, the SB100 frame is not light. It's heavier than my Ripley LS frame and, I believe heavier than my Ripmo frame. My biggest disappointment with the frame is how heavy it is and concern about SI maintenance. Fortunately, so far I've had no SI issues at all and love the frame.
    Did you get a Turq or C frame? I have a medium Turq XO1 race which came to about 25.6 lbs without pedals or a bottle cage. Ready to ride, it weighs about 27.2 lbs which is significantly lighter than any other bike I've owned as of late. For reference, my carbon Trek Slash 9.8 weighs in at 32.5 lbs and my Nukeproof Scout 290 aluminum hardtail is at 29.5 lbs. Both are ready to ride with pedals and bottle cages. The SB100 not an XC race machine for weight weenies so yes, it'll be a little heavier. And to be honest, I'd take a hit on weight on the frame if it means it's stiffer and more robust. I love beefy carbon frames.

    As for the SI maintenance, the first thing I did is remove the mounting hardware and applied blue Loctite to the threads. This will prevent any loosening in the future. Then I torqued them down to 9 nm. The manual says 10 nm in the spreadsheet and 12 nm in the actual picture instructions however. But they are fragile titanium bolts that have a T25 head which means it's crazy easy to strip. And I've done so to 2 bolts trying to torque them to 10 nm. I set them to 9nm and I've had zero issues with play or loosening. Then just lube the SI once every few weeks with a grease gun. Easy peasy.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  29. #1529
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaktm View Post
    BmanInTheD, I had a Ripley LS, OG Ripley, Tallboy and have a Ripmo and SB100. The Ripley LS and SB100 are similar in many ways, though the SB is a little "lower" feeling. Both are very playful and I think the SB may even have an edge in playfulness, which is good. Unfortunately, the SB100 frame is not light. It's heavier than my Ripley LS frame and, I believe heavier than my Ripmo frame. My biggest disappointment with the frame is how heavy it is and concern about SI maintenance. Fortunately, so far I've had no SI issues at all and love the frame.
    IDK, the Ripley is listed as 6.25 pounds in medium and the Ripmo is listed as lighter at 6.1 pounds. The eccentric bearings on the Rip LS are heavy. By all accounts the SB100 is around 5.8 or so in black medium turq. Either way, with a SC34 fork, smaller, lighter wheels and tires, and a couple other changes, I should be able to get it lighter than my 26.5 pound Ripley.
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  30. #1530
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    SB100 Large weighed in front of me Black-5.62g, Turquoise 5.96. My Large weighs 27# even with 352g flats, 1800g Nox wheel set. 170 dropper.

  31. #1531
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    Im after a bottle cage for the sb100 that quick and easy to gte bottle in and out of while riding / racing. Any recommendations?

  32. #1532
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Did you get a Turq or C frame? I have a medium Turq XO1 race which came to about 25.6 lbs without pedals or a bottle cage. Ready to ride, it weighs about 27.2 lbs which is significantly lighter than any other bike I've owned as of late. For reference, my carbon Trek Slash 9.8 weighs in at 32.5 lbs and my Nukeproof Scout 290 aluminum hardtail is at 29.5 lbs. Both are ready to ride with pedals and bottle cages. The SB100 not an XC race machine for weight weenies so yes, it'll be a little heavier. And to be honest, I'd take a hit on weight on the frame if it means it's stiffer and more robust. I love beefy carbon frames.

    As for the SI maintenance, the first thing I did is remove the mounting hardware and applied blue Loctite to the threads. This will prevent any loosening in the future. Then I torqued them down to 9 nm. The manual says 10 nm in the spreadsheet and 12 nm in the actual picture instructions however. But they are fragile titanium bolts that have a T25 head which means it's crazy easy to strip. And I've done so to 2 bolts trying to torque them to 10 nm. I set them to 9nm and I've had zero issues with play or loosening. Then just lube the SI once every few weeks with a grease gun. Easy peasy.
    Is removing the SI hardwear and applying loctite and easy job? Just building mine up now and wonder if i should do this or has this been done now with the newer frames?

  33. #1533
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Is removing the SI hardwear and applying loctite and easy job? Just building mine up now and wonder if i should do this or has this been done now with the newer frames?
    Shops get the frames completely unassembled, SI and all. So they may not put loctite nor torque them to spec. Mine was under-torqued, and had no loctite on the threads. It's an easy job, but much easier if you have just the bare frame. If you have cranks on, it's best to remove them as the chainring gets in the way of the drive side bolts. Be careful torquing the bolts. They're brittle titanium and easy to strip.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  34. #1534
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Im after a bottle cage for the sb100 that quick and easy to gte bottle in and out of while riding / racing. Any recommendations?
    I use the Fidlock magnetic bottle and mount. A little pricey, but worth it since it completely clears the rear shock and is very secure. I mistakenly got the 15 oz version, which looked bigger in pictures, but is tiny. I should have got the 20 oz bottle, but the pictures made it look gigantic. Fortunately, spare Fidlock bottles(only) are much cheaper than the entire kit.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  35. #1535
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    I am running an Elite Cannibal. It's perfect.

  36. #1536
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    Shops get the frames completely unassembled, SI and all. So they may not put loctite nor torque them to spec. Mine was under-torqued, and had no loctite on the threads. It's an easy job, but much easier if you have just the bare frame. If you have cranks on, it's best to remove them as the chainring gets in the way of the drive side bolts. Be careful torquing the bolts. They're brittle titanium and easy to strip.
    Not true. Isnít it the other way around. Frames/ SI are assembled from Yeti. When I purchased my frame in Sept. Yeti was still shipping with version 1 SI and having the dealers switch the hardware, which my shop did in front of me.
    Last edited by Chicane32; 1 Week Ago at 11:51 PM.

  37. #1537
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    Yeh. I thought i had heard that due to bolts loosening yeti was now applying there own locttite equivalent

  38. #1538
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    I am running an Elite Cannibal. It's perfect.
    That what ive got. Just find it really stiff to get bottles out and also ist very close to the shock. Wondering is a side entry cage may be better

  39. #1539
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    Built mine up and it was already aseembled as I opened the box. Running original hardware and no issues so far after riding a lot.

  40. #1540
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    All the gear and no idea.

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    i have been using mine as a trail bike riding some harsh stuff and is as good as it was first ride out no issues no creaks no flex.

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    Picked mine up today, medium black XX1 build with the upgraded wheels. Checked it over at the shop, took it home, and started to do some surgery. Replaced the stem/bar with an Enve bar and Syntace 60mm stem, replaced the saddle with a Fabric Shallow with carbon rails, and put my Enve 525 wheels on from my 429SL rolling Rekon 2.25's and Look X-Track pedals. Rode around in the drizzle in my neighborhood to dial in the controls, took it home, and hung it from the scale. 24.49 pounds. BOOM! Stoked!! Lifted it up by the rear shock to hang it up and felt a little looseness in the shock at the swingarm. uh-oh...
    Yeti SB100
    Ibis Ripmo
    Ibis Ripley LS V3
    Ibis Mojo HD4
    Pivot 429SL
    Pivot LES SS
    Some bikes with skinny tires

  43. #1543
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-50480657_2328341823866040_4764199194711818240_o.jpg
    22.73 pounds without the pedals....
    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-50593701_2328342010532688_7013809511378976768_o.jpg
    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-51212038_2328341893866033_7896209206607347712_o.jpg
    .....Pro Bike Supply got mine built to 22.73 pounds (without pedals). It's a SRAM X01 drivetrain with XX1 cranks, Shimano XTR brakes, Enve M525 wheels with Schwalbe Racing Ralph-Ray tires, Enve 31.8 handlebars and stem, ESI grips, Bike Yolk Devine dropper, and WTB Volt carbon saddle. The other bike I was considering was a Pivot 429 SL....this build is similar to that of the Pivot I would have ordered, and I believe the weight is pretty similar also. I am an XC guy, and wanted a bike for "all day" rides....I think this will suit me.

    I can't wait to ride it

  44. #1544
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    Quote Originally Posted by emejay View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    22.73 pounds without the pedals....
    Click image for larger version. 

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    .....Pro Bike Supply got mine built to 22.73 pounds (without pedals). It's a SRAM X01 drivetrain with XX1 cranks, Shimano XTR brakes, Enve M525 wheels with Schwalbe Racing Ralph-Ray tires, Enve 31.8 handlebars and stem, ESI grips, Bike Yolk Devine dropper, and WTB Volt carbon saddle. The other bike I was considering was a Pivot 429 SL....this build is similar to that of the Pivot I would have ordered, and I believe the weight is pretty similar also. I am an XC guy, and wanted a bike for "all day" rides....I think this will suit me.

    I can't wait to ride it
    That really light. Good job.

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  45. #1545
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    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    Picked mine up today, medium black XX1 build with the upgraded wheels. Checked it over at the shop, took it home, and started to do some surgery. Replaced the stem/bar with an Enve bar and Syntace 60mm stem, replaced the saddle with a Fabric Shallow with carbon rails, and put my Enve 525 wheels on from my 429SL rolling Rekon 2.25's and Look X-Track pedals. Rode around in the drizzle in my neighborhood to dial in the controls, took it home, and hung it from the scale. 24.49 pounds. BOOM! Stoked!! Lifted it up by the rear shock to hang it up and felt a little looseness in the shock at the swingarm. uh-oh...

    The SB100 is a great bike. There have been some owners with legitimate issues but there are some who are definitely enjoying their rides. Mine was purchased with the revised bolt setup so I did not have the chance to experience version 1.0.

    Before you go out an ride, remove rear wheel and the Infinity Switch cover to inspect the 4 bolts. My upper right bolt was loose. I ended up removing all of the bolts and apply blue thread lock to keep everything in check. You may need to modify a 5mm hex, i.e. shorten, in order to tighten the bolt (torx on the other side). Torque the bolts to 12nm and allow the thread lock to set. I check my SI bolts every other ride just to make sure everything works as expected.

    I am a fairly light rider so flex is not much of an issue at this point. I, like many, hope Yeti will provide stiffer solution and offer it to their customers. Good luck and enjoy your new rig.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  46. #1546
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    Quote Originally Posted by emejay View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    22.73 pounds without the pedals....
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    .....Pro Bike Supply got mine built to 22.73 pounds (without pedals). It's a SRAM X01 drivetrain with XX1 cranks, Shimano XTR brakes, Enve M525 wheels with Schwalbe Racing Ralph-Ray tires, Enve 31.8 handlebars and stem, ESI grips, Bike Yolk Devine dropper, and WTB Volt carbon saddle. The other bike I was considering was a Pivot 429 SL....this build is similar to that of the Pivot I would have ordered, and I believe the weight is pretty similar also. I am an XC guy, and wanted a bike for "all day" rides....I think this will suit me.

    I can't wait to ride it
    Whatttt 22.73 on a complete bike. Mines still 26.5 on xl frame with fairly lightweight parts. Tiny bit jealous now, nice build.

  47. #1547
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robby1 View Post
    Whatttt 22.73 on a complete bike. Mines still 26.5 on xl frame with fairly lightweight parts. Tiny bit jealous now, nice build.
    It's really in his wheels and tires. That's going to be a personal and practical choice for the style and location of your riding. The others parts are pretty straight forward and easy.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  48. #1548
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    It's really in his wheels and tires. That's going to be a personal and practical choice for the style and location of your riding. The others parts are pretty straight forward and easy.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Ya, His wheels, tires and brakes are about 2 pounds lighter than my bike and his 80mm dropper is only 385g. 160g lighter than a 170 Oneup.

    I ride the same area he does, but it looks like I prefer a little more grip.

  49. #1549
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    Damn I'm jelous, my large is 28 lbs. I am running 2.3 exo casing, have a regular 34 instead of a stepcast (so I can run 130mm) and have 180mm dropper and 203/180 rotors.

  50. #1550
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    Quote Originally Posted by emejay View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    22.73 pounds without the pedals....
    Click image for larger version. 

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    .....Pro Bike Supply got mine built to 22.73 pounds (without pedals). It's a SRAM X01 drivetrain with XX1 cranks, Shimano XTR brakes, Enve M525 wheels with Schwalbe Racing Ralph-Ray tires, Enve 31.8 handlebars and stem, ESI grips, Bike Yolk Devine dropper, and WTB Volt carbon saddle. The other bike I was considering was a Pivot 429 SL....this build is similar to that of the Pivot I would have ordered, and I believe the weight is pretty similar also. I am an XC guy, and wanted a bike for "all day" rides....I think this will suit me.

    I can't wait to ride it
    The SB100 is so much more capable then the Pivot 429sl, I had 3-429 sl and 1- 429 trail. One of the things I love about the Yeti sb100 is it's able to built up light as you did for xc or build it as I did at 25.6 large/black with 130 pike with 42mm offset and Torque caps. Hans dampf front 2.4 and 2.4 Bongrager XR4 rear tire on Light Bicycle 30mm carbon rims.
    bogeydog is correct.. Wheels and rubber make the biggest difference in final weight of your bike.

    I'm also considering a SB130 but will probably wait to allow Yeti to sort out issues. Also looking the 2019 Trek Remedy 27.5 with 2.6 tires. My sb100 update rear hardware was done shortly after the received the bike. My top right bolt now has come loose 3 times in 6 months with blue loctite with torquing to spec, also shock bushing replaced 2 times, I'm supper anal when it comes to my bikes and willing to do all it takes to keep my sb100 in top shape. I love this bike!! Getting ready to send out the rear shock for rebuild, many hours on this bike!!
    I send all my shocks, forks and dropper post to Ethan at The FlowZone/Maverick Suspension, inc. this guy is a throback one man show..the best!! Great guy.

  51. #1551
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    What settings are you guys running on the rear shock. Just about to set my SB100 up. Im 82kg / 182 lb kitted up

  52. #1552
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    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    What settings are you guys running on the rear shock. Just about to set my SB100 up. Im 82kg / 182 lb kitted up
    32% sag as suggested by Yeti. I've tried less sag at 29-20% and I barely used 3/4 of travel. I ran more sag at 33-35% and it blew through travel pretty easily.

    12mm of sag is 32%. Since everyone weighs differently, adjust your air pressure until you reach that number.

    I've also have it completely open and the 1-2-3 adjuster to the softest setting. Rebound is 7 clicks from full open, but I adjust that and only that based on trail types and conditions.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  53. #1553
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    32% sag as suggested by Yeti. I've tried less sag at 29-20% and I barely used 3/4 of travel. I ran more sag at 33-35% and it blew through travel pretty easily.

    12mm of sag is 32%. Since everyone weighs differently, adjust your air pressure until you reach that number.

    I've also have it completely open and the 1-2-3 adjuster to the softest setting. Rebound is 7 clicks from full open, but I adjust that and only that based on trail types and conditions.
    All if that sounds consistent with what I have experienced. I now have the shock tuned by Avalanche and started at 30%. Weather has been poor so need more ride time.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  54. #1554
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    Care to add if you notcied a difference with the avy tune?

  55. #1555
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    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    Care to add if you notcied a difference with the avy tune?
    Too early to tell because the weather has made the trails unrideable.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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    Finally got a ride on my SB100 today on a trail after getting the shock bushing issue settled. Holy CRAP this thing is fast. Just about as fast as my 429SL with skinnier semi-slicks on it. Super efficient and easy to get comfy on real quick. And much more fun to ride and capable on the few DH sections I had today than a full-on xc bike. I resisted Yeti's for a long time, mostly due to the attitude of a bunch of people that ride them, but dayum, that SI is for reelz. Felt almost like a hardtail when on smoother trail while putting the hammer down.
    Yeti SB100
    Ibis Ripmo
    Ibis Ripley LS V3
    Ibis Mojo HD4
    Pivot 429SL
    Pivot LES SS
    Some bikes with skinny tires

  57. #1557
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    Bman that's the scoop on this thing. It resets the bar on what a bike with can do.

    Pedals up like nobodies business, yet allows you to hang with dudes running 30-50mm more travel going down the chunk. It begs to be ridden aggressively through berms and switchbacks. The bike is so radically different than my old rigs
    that I have changed my fitness program -- 2x the upper body work because I want the extra strength to push the bike harder going down.

    Just watch your SI bolts ... a bolt sleeve in the front triangle broke on my frame, which had the new SI hardware installed by my LBS. My LBS quickly diagnosed it last week and Yeti agreed to send out a new front triangle the same day I brought it in.

  58. #1558
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    Quote Originally Posted by k/dv View Post
    Care to add if you notcied a difference with the avy tune?
    Got in about 6 miles today. Conditions weren't great because of a little mud. Avy tune (Fox 34 and Stock shock) felt great. I immediately noticed how smooth the bike felt through roots and rock gardens. I went with Craig's recommended setting which were 22% front sag and 30% rear sag. I initially was concerned that there want enough pressure when doing a parking lot ride. However I never used all the travel despite some pretty good fast down hill rock garden sections, 2 foot drops, etc. Pedaled great and never lost traction going up despite damp conditions. It's mid 30s here so I would probably open fork rebound slightly next time. I was trying to pay attention to how high the fork rode in turns. I think it rode pretty high. I am pleased and eager for spring conditions.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  59. #1559
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    Got to finally ride my new sb100 at the weekend after waiting bloody ages for my fox 34c to arrive. What a bike. Just feels perfectly sized. Not to long. Not too short. Steering is super direct with loads of traction on the front wheel. Can really throw the thing around. Also for its travel so supple. Love it. First race on Sunday. Cant wait !

  60. #1560
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    If anyone's looking for a Fox Factory 34 Stepcast (44 offset, boost, 29"), I have a brand spanking new one I'm looking to unload. I'm swapping a different fork on to my sb100. I just took the fork out of the box for some pictures, that's it. Looking to get 875 and I'll cover shipping.

    I also have a set of the DT Swiss Spline One 25 wheels I'm looking to unload as well. 29", boost, XD, centerlock, pre-taped and I'll include valves. Looking to get 800 for those and I'll cover shipping.

    I'm also looking to part ways with the Level TLM brakeset. It will include front & rear calipers/pads, levers, lines, and clamps. The front will include an adapter for 180 rotors, all mounting hardware is included. Rotors are not. BYOR. 180 shipped.

    I'm so stoked to get this bike built up and I can't wait to ride it! She'll be sitting in a box for a few weeks, though, while I accumulate parts.

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