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  1. #2201
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    I am thinking about getting an SB100 and coveting the turquoise color, but it seems like the paint is chipping easily and once chipped the black carbon is highly visible. (no primer ???)
    My Wife's 2016 Red Tallboy2 carbon frame never chipped. worst case scenario it got some deep scratches that were red at the entire depth -never seen black carbon peeping out.

    What's your experience ?
    Attached photo is from an advertised SB100 for sale on Fleebay.

    Attachment 1308563
    It's a mountain bike. It'll get chipped if you ride it appropriately. All of my mountain bikes have suffered paint chips because it comes with the territory.

    Yeti sells touch up paint on every and all colors they have released since the SB(Inch) series. Except for the matte black/carbon color. There are also pre-cute frame protectors you can use, although I prefer to use 3M tape I cut to length myself.

    Or you know, you can always matchy-matchy everything and keep it in your garage. Ride it around the block or drive it to the trailhead for a photo op for the 'Gram once in a while. Then take it back to your garage. It'll never get blemished that way.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  2. #2202
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    I am thinking about getting an SB100 and coveting the turquoise color, but it seems like the paint is chipping easily and once chipped the black carbon is highly visible. (no primer ???)
    My Wife's 2016 Red Tallboy2 carbon frame never chipped. worst case scenario it got some deep scratches that were red at the entire depth -never seen black carbon peeping out.

    What's your experience ?
    My turquoise SB100 is one year old now with about 2500 miles on it, and I don't have any chips at all on it. I do have ISC Racers tape on the most exposed parts, which has proven itself to be of value. FYI, my prior bikes were an SC Tallboy and Highball and both of these had the ISC treatment (I'm sure other brands of tape would also work as well) and they held up well too. I must add, I love the turquoise color. I had an older raw aluminum Yeti 575 and always regretted it not being turquoise.

  3. #2203
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    I definitely don't have anything like that on my sb100 after racing the shit out of it for a year and being notoriously bad at keeping my bikes clean.

    I have worn off a ton of paint on the chain stay with my heel but I do that on all my bikes and should really learn to put some protection there.
    Previously known as mttamrnr.

  4. #2204
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    Quote Originally Posted by almazing View Post
    I'm 5'7 on a good day with perfect conditions and I ride a medium.
    Quote Originally Posted by 83ale83 View Post
    The same here with 60cm stem
    Quote Originally Posted by xseal View Post
    I normally ride a L and went to a XL with 35mm stem. Consider a medium with short stem.
    Quote Originally Posted by BmanInTheD View Post
    Depends where you ride. If you ride where it's a little flatter, tighter, and twistier, I'd say go with a Small and slightly longer stem. If you ride where it's more open and longer ups and downs, I'd recommend a Medium with a shorter stem. You can get the same saddle-to-bar length either way, just depends if you want more wheelbase, stability, and reach or more maneuverability/nimbleness with a shorter WB.
    Thanks guys!

    I finally got a chance to demo both a small and medium. Although the demos were a week apart, I tried to make the route the same.

    Both bikes were set up nearly the same. Same saddle height (BB to top of saddle), 50mm stem, same bar width, even same build kit. The only main difference was the slightly longer crank length on the medium (175mm) vs. small (170mm). The stack height on both were made roughly the same with the use of spacers.

    What I like about the medium:
    Much more room to move around. The reach wasn't an issue at all. On flatter sections of trail, fireroad, or streets, I like to climb out of the saddle. The small felt too cramped. My arms would be at a weird angle and my weight over the front more. It did feel more stable, especially on flowier stuff where I think this size would work best.

    What I didn't like about the medium:
    Much more effort needed to keep the front down, especially on steep switchbacks and steep portions of the trail in general. It felt a bit like steering a boat on downhills at times. Hard to describe.

    What I like about the small:
    Felt more nimble on descents, especially when avoiding various trail features. A bit easier to flick around. This might be sound silly, but aesthetically, I personally like the fact that there's more seatpost showing.

    What I don't like about the small:
    Felt cramped (see above).

    Final thoughts:
    I'm leaning towards the medium and sticking with the stock 50mm stem length at this point, but have also considered getting a small and throwing a 60mm stem on there. It would open up the cockpit more, but the wheelbase is obviously still shorter than the medium.

    Thoughts or recommendations?

  5. #2205
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    Quote Originally Posted by emejay View Post
    My turquoise SB100 is one year old now with about 2500 miles on it, and I don't have any chips at all on it. I do have ISC Racers tape on the most exposed parts, which has proven itself to be of value. FYI, my prior bikes were an SC Tallboy and Highball and both of these had the ISC treatment (I'm sure other brands of tape would also work as well) and they held up well too. I must add, I love the turquoise color. I had an older raw aluminum Yeti 575 and always regretted it not being turquoise.
    Thanks for the Tape tip and great to know that the paint job is durable.
    I also like the All Mountain Style Honeycomb Frame Guard.
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  6. #2206
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    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    Iíve asked and posted about a power meter for the SB100 earlier in this thread. The Stages left crank-arm PM doesnít fit, because it hits the chainstay, so I went with the power2max NGeco spider for SRAM Dub cranks, with a 104 BCD 32T chainring, from Power Meter City.

    First ride yesterday, and it worked flawlessly. Interesting to look at and watch the data, as itís the first PM Iíve ever had, and I look forward to learning how to use and apply it.



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  7. #2207
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    Quote Originally Posted by chase2wheels View Post
    Mine has developed the creaking noise as others have described, and I have the original SI mounting bolts. No flex or looseness like in the video posted previously. Rather than upgrade to the new SI bolts, which seem to have other issues, Iím going to keep the status quo until we hear something from Yeti officially.

    I havenít seen any recalls from Yeti nor has Competitive Cyclist (where I purchased the frame) informed me of one. From a riding experience, this really is the finest riding MTB Iíve ever ridden. And that riding experience includes 5-6 Specialized, 4 Intenses, the ASRc, and two Pivots (which are great bikes that I still own).
    Just an update. After I installed the new hardware, I havenít had any issues. I have about 1400 miles on my SB100 and think itís the best XCish bike Iíve ever owned. Iíd buy it again in a heartbeat. If I could only have one MTB, this would be it.
    Bikes are my time machines.

  8. #2208
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    just fitted a 2020 34 factory @130mm to mine . Looking forward to seeing how it rides

  9. #2209
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    just fitted a 2020 34 factory @130mm to mine . Looking forward to seeing how it rides
    How does it ride?
    Bikes are my time machines.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chase2wheels View Post
    How does it ride?
    first time out yesterday went with same settings as I was using in my sc fork
    Fork felt way better off the top and more plush but was going through all the travel on around 3 feet drops set prs on 2 downhill sections but not feel as I was pushing hard .
    Went out again this morning with 5 psi more in the fork seemed better stayed a little higher in travel but was hard to guage as it was really wet and muddy . Will update after I get some more miles on it .
    Had to move my saddle forward on rails around 5mm and tilt down at front slightly . I may take 5mm out from under my stem but I will ride it a bit more first

  11. #2211
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    Same here, the 130 completely woke my bike up. (It kinda sucked in 140). Removed 5 mil spacer from under the stem as well.
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  12. #2212
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    Hi all,
    I have a RF Next SL fresh installed with new RF BB. In my opinion it spins slowly: half a turn , while on my old SC5010 were 7/8 turns easily (BSA BB). The same story even with only the left crank installed, without the other one.
    Any hints for this?
    Thanks for you help

  13. #2213
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Not sure how you managed that; Iíve got a Large SB100 and the B-Rad system, and my cranks hit the bottle cages. Doesnít work for me.

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  14. #2214
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    - Tires: Ikon 2.35 front and rear. I love these tires, and they can handle anything.
    Ikon 2.35F/2.0R combo is my preferred tires combo on my TallBoy2,
    In your opinion are there any major disadvantages compare to the original tires (Minion /Aggressor)
    My SB100 is on the way and I am planing on installing light Carbon wheel-set and undecided about the Tires.
    Riding in SoCal mostly XC/Trail Blue trails intermediate/difficult
    Yeti SB100
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    Ikon 2.35F/2.0R combo is my preferred tires combo on my TallBoy2,
    In your opinion are there any major disadvantages compare to the original tires (Minion /Aggressor)
    My SB100 is on the way and I am planing on installing light Carbon wheel-set and undecided about the Tires.
    Riding in SoCal mostly XC/Trail Blue trails intermediate/difficult
    I am running ikon 2.2 rear/ardent race 2.35 front on 30mm id rims here in SoCal. Seems to hook up fine for most of my riding while saving a decent amount of weight. I have done some single black trails and they still work.

  16. #2216
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Shopping around for a new bike and SB100 is one of my options, but struggling with sizing.

    I'm 5'6" and typically ride 50-52cm road and gravel bikes. My height is at the upper end of small and borderline low end of medium per Yeti's size chart.

    I don't have the opportunity to demo at this time, but can anyone offer sizing advice?
    I'm 5-10 and could have gone either way with a M/L. I sized down and added a 20mm longer stem which got me the same cockpit size as the L. It was a little cramped with the stock 50 and the front end got a bit wandery on steep climbs. I'm super, super happy with the bike. Normally I would have sized up for our wide open fast and chunky terrain, but my son will fit the bike in a year or two. So I sized down for that reason only.

  17. #2217
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    Ikon 2.35F/2.0R combo is my preferred tires combo on my TallBoy2,
    In your opinion are there any major disadvantages compare to the original tires (Minion /Aggressor)
    My SB100 is on the way and I am planing on installing light Carbon wheel-set and undecided about the Tires.
    Riding in SoCal mostly XC/Trail Blue trails intermediate/difficult
    Ikon 2.35 (f and r) were my preferred tires for my Tallboy2. On my SB100 I initially installed Schwalbe Racing Ralph/Ray 2.25 on Enve M525 (25mm i.d.) rims. After using many different types and sizes of tires over the years, I have always gone back to the 2.35 Ikons....they just work good. When I recently put the Ikons on the SB100, I totally loved the change in the bike....a huge increase in small bump compliance and not much of a difference in rolling resistance or pedaling effort. The significantly enhanced traction gives a lot more confidence. I would suggest considering the Ikon 2.35 in the rear, vs. the 2.0, due to the comfort factor alone.

  18. #2218
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    To address a couple of the recent topics:
    - Sizing: Iím 5í10Ē, with a 32Ē inseam, and fit perfectly on a Large with a 50mm stem. I tried a Medium, and it felt way too cramped and small to me.
    - Tires: For endurance racing, I run 2.35 Ikons front and rear, and it is a great set up. For regular, day-to-day riding, I run 2.4 Rekon WTís, which, to me, is the perfect tire for this bike, and adds so much capability and comfort without any real weight penalty. My wheels are 30mm Chinese carbon rims laced to I9 Hydras with Berd UHMWPE spokes. Very light and responsive.

    Hope this helps. I continue to be amazed by the all-around capability ofthe SB100, both as a day-to-day trail bike and as an endurance racing machine. I absolutely love it.


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  19. #2219
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    [QUOTE=For regular, day-to-day riding, I run 2.4 Rekon WTís, which, to me, is the perfect tire for this bike, and adds so much capability and comfort without any real weight penalty.
    [/QUOTE]

    Do you have good clearance at the rear with the Rekon 2.4WT? I am thinking of putting one on my SB100....

  20. #2220
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    Quote Originally Posted by JC822 View Post
    Do you have good clearance at the rear with the Rekon 2.4WT? I am thinking of putting one on my SB100....
    Plenty...non-issue.


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    Thoughts on the best strategy on what I can do to lighten up my bike?

    It's a mostly stock medium SB100 C1 build. I've swapped out the fork to a Fox Factory 34 SC 120mm and cranks with the slightly lighter carbon SRAM X1. With Time ATAC XS pedals, I'm sitting at 29.2lbs. Not looking to change the fork or tires (DHF/Aggressor) since it's perfect for what I ride.

    The obvious thing is going with a lighter wheelsel. I think I could save ~100g here and there with a X01 cassette, carbon bars, etc.

  23. #2223
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    C1 is the standard frame, Turq is ~1/2 lb less so you're starting from a disadvantage compared to some of the lighter weights posted here.

    Wheels, tires and cassette are the probably your best options before spending on anything else.

  24. #2224
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    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Thoughts on the best strategy on what I can do to lighten up my bike?

    It's a mostly stock medium SB100 C1 build. I've swapped out the fork to a Fox Factory 34 SC 120mm and cranks with the slightly lighter carbon SRAM X1. With Time ATAC XS pedals, I'm sitting at 29.2lbs. Not looking to change the fork or tires (DHF/Aggressor) since it's perfect for what I ride.

    The obvious thing is going with a lighter wheelsel. I think I could save ~100g here and there with a X01 cassette, carbon bars, etc.
    Iíve got mine currently at 26.20 lbs, including pedals (Shimano XTR M9000), bottle cage, Garmin and Quadlock mounts, and Ergon GS1 grips. Build is a Large Turq X01 (already has the 34 SC fork and carbon cranks), with the following changes:
    - 1,290g wheelset (Chinese carbon 30mm rims, I9 Hydra hubs, Berd UHMWPE spokes)
    - Rekon 2.4 WT tires (I can shave another .5-.6 lb by switching to Ikon 2.35ís). Iíve never used the stock tires - too heavy, for me. Youíd be surprised at what those 2.4 Rekons can handle.
    - BikeYoke Divine SL 80mm dropper - way lighter than the stock Fox Transfer 150mm. I simply donít need that much drop on this bike.
    - XG-1295 cassette - lighter than the stock XG-1275
    - Fox Kabolt thru-axle, replacing front QR
    - Replaced stock brake rotors with lighter Shimano XT RT-MT800 Centerlock rotors (180 f/160 r)

    I think thatís it. Again, Iíve been at 25.60 lbs with the Ikons, and could easily get it to sub-25 lbs with lighter brakes and grips. The wheels, and the Berd spokes, are the biggest impact.

    Hope this helps!


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  25. #2225
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    Thanks for the info. Really helps break it down. Agree that I'm already at a ~0.5lb disadvantage with the non-Turq frame. Looks like I should be starting off with a lighter wheelset. The stock M1900 wheels are listed at 1798g.

    Do you have any more info on the 1290g wheelset?

  26. #2226
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Thoughts on the best strategy on what I can do to lighten up my bike?

    It's a mostly stock medium SB100 C1 build. I've swapped out the fork to a Fox Factory 34 SC 120mm and cranks with the slightly lighter carbon SRAM X1. With Time ATAC XS pedals, I'm sitting at 29.2lbs. Not looking to change the fork or tires (DHF/Aggressor) since it's perfect for what I ride.

    The obvious thing is going with a lighter wheelset. I think I could save ~100g here and there with a X01 cassette, carbon bars, etc.
    When I originally just purchased my custom SB100 size L back in October 2018 it was at 24.04 lbs with HT ME03T flat pedals (218g).
    It was the 2019 raw (black) Turq frame, so it was even lighter due to no pain weight reduction. It had Fox Factory 34 SC 44 offset.
    What shaved most of the weight were probably the NEXTIE NXT29UL30 Carbon Rims
    [https://www.nextie.com/ultralight-mo...0mm-NXT29UL30] that were 310g per rim. I had my shop built the wheels with DT Swiss 240 hubs Centerlock, DT Swiss Aerolite bladed spokes and DT Swiss Brass nipples. Complete Wheelset was at 1,295g.
    Looking back today, I would suggest to go with I9 Hydra today. The weight penalty is very minor but I9 Hydra just incredibly nice. I have Hydras on my other two wheelsets.
    On the wheelset, I installed Maxxis Forekaster 2.35 front and rear I had zero regrets about it. Forekasters in the wet season and probably Rekon 2.4 during the summer dry season should be the perfect match for that bike. Weight reduction is also very significant compared to DHF/Aggressor combo. Honestly, I was never a big fan of Aggressor - It's pretty heavy, sidewalls are thin and it's not that good during the wet season. On my Yeti SB130 I run Dissector/Dissector during The Bay Area summertime and DHR II 2.4 (front) and Forekaster 2.35 (Rear) during the winter. And both of these options are lighter than DHF/Aggressor combo and much better performing.
    I also built my SB100 with SRAM Level Ultimate with SRAM Centerline X 180/180 mm rotors. Which I would NOT recommend to anyone today to install on your bike. I'm really not a fan of Shimanos including all of their latest stuff. So I would say go with G2 Ultimate for SB100.
    I had on my SB100 KS Lev Carbon 175mm dropper post that also made some serious weight shaving on my bike.
    ENVE M6 780mm bars with ENVE M6 50mm 31.8 stem.

  27. #2227
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Thoughts on the best strategy on what I can do to lighten up my bike?

    It's a mostly stock medium SB100 C1 build. I've swapped out the fork to a Fox Factory 34 SC 120mm and cranks with the slightly lighter carbon SRAM X1. With Time ATAC XS pedals, I'm sitting at 29.2lbs. Not looking to change the fork or tires (DHF/Aggressor) since it's perfect for what I ride.

    The obvious thing is going with a lighter wheelsel. I think I could save ~100g here and there with a X01 cassette, carbon bars, etc.
    View the attached link to see how I got mine to 22.73 pounds (no pedals)....I would first start with wheels and tires. Since the bike was built I have gone to 2.35 Ikons, front and rear, which adds to the weight a bit, but well worth it.
    https://www.probikesupply.com/a/s/bl...0-is-not-heavy

  28. #2228
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Thanks for the info. Really helps break it down. Agree that I'm already at a ~0.5lb disadvantage with the non-Turq frame. Looks like I should be starting off with a lighter wheelset. The stock M1900 wheels are listed at 1798g.

    Do you have any more info on the 1290g wheelset?
    First of all, I forgot this, and edited my post to include it:
    - Replaced stock brake rotors with lighter Shimano XT RT-MT800 Centerlock rotors (180 f/160 r)

    With regard to the wheelset, my LBS built it up using generic Chinese carbon 30mm ID rims, I9 Hydra hubs they ordered for me, and Berd spokes. I think those rims are 385-400g each, and theyíve been bombproof for me. The big difference maker is the Berd spokes - google them for info. They are Ultra-High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE), which looks and feels like string when not tensioned, and they weigh only 2g each! Not only are they light, but they are stronger than steel, and absorb a significant amount of vibration. I love the so much, I had my SS wheelset rebuilt with them also.


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  29. #2229
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    SB100 Suspension Bearing Installation

    Has anyone been able to replace their Main Pivot bearings successfully. The 2 x 6903's located here:

    Name:  SB100 Main Pivot Bearing location.JPG
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    I was able to remove them with a lot of effort - they were in there really tight. No grease between bearing cups and bearing.

    I am unable to get replacement bearings back into the frame... The geometry of the swingarm makes it challenging to align a bearing press with the cups and the bearing ends up pulling at a slight angle.

    Whats also worrying is that the new bearings feels "rough" at only about 3mm of insert suggesting perhaps too much pressure in the cups?

    Yeti produced this "bearing press plate":
    Name:  Screen Shot 2020-04-23 at 8.57.19 AM.png
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    but I wont be able to get my hands on one for months..

    Any ideas?

  30. #2230
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Thoughts on the best strategy on what I can do to lighten up my bike?

    It's a mostly stock medium SB100 C1 build. I've swapped out the fork to a Fox Factory 34 SC 120mm and cranks with the slightly lighter carbon SRAM X1. With Time ATAC XS pedals, I'm sitting at 29.2lbs. Not looking to change the fork or tires (DHF/Aggressor) since it's perfect for what I ride.

    The obvious thing is going with a lighter wheelsel. I think I could save ~100g here and there with a X01 cassette, carbon bars, etc.

    Lighter wheelset for sure. It will be the most noticeable on the trail as well. DT Swiss XRC's are flipping light as hell. I found a new set for 900.00 on pinkbike.com patiently watching daily. The Proscloset also has some sweet deals. For the record my medium turqs is just a touch under 26 lbs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-578d6bba-8b44-4a36-9111-5a82afb0b434.jpg  


  31. #2231
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    Quote Originally Posted by iErnest85 View Post

    I also built my SB100 with SRAM Level Ultimate with SRAM Centerline X 180/180 mm rotors. Which I would NOT recommend to anyone today to install on your bike. I'm really not a fan of Shimanos including all of their latest stuff. So I would say go with G2 Ultimate for SB100.
    What is it that you don't like about the Level Ultimates? Mine have been great, perfect really, like my Guide Ultimates before them, everything that Shimanos are not - consistent, no wandering bite point, don't need constant bleeding to stay firm, and work great in the cold. Plenty strong for this bike and amazing feel and modulation.
    My Guide Ultimates were perfect but I've been building up my SB100 to be very light (the Lev carbon like you, for example) and to save weight switched to the Level Ultimates (found a new pair with the gold lettering which wasn't easy!).
    I think they're a great fit for the SB100. I even run 160mm rotors at both ends - no adapter needed for the SC34 so that saves a bit more weight.

  32. #2232
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    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    DT Swiss XRC's are flipping light as hell. I found a new set for 900.00 on pinkbike.com patiently watching daily. The Proscloset also has some sweet deals.
    That's a great deal. I've been looking but definitely nothing close to that. Good to know though

  33. #2233
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    You could take a small block of wood with a dremel rotary tool and sculpture your own press plate. A lot of work considering the plate is $5 from Yeti.

    As for the tight fit, you can freeze the bearings which would reduce the outer diameter slightly, maybe just enough to help press them in.
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  34. #2234
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    Is the LEV carbon dropper much lighter? When I look up specs on 175 v. stock 150 fox transfer, they look within 10 g of each other. Am I miss reading?

    My SB100 is 26, with XMC 30ID rims, Guide ultimate and 180/160 brakes, and Bonty XR4/3 tires. Very happy. Wish I had gotten 31mm Enve bars, got 35 and they seem like overkill for this bike, but not many g's there.

  35. #2235
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    Quote Originally Posted by xseal View Post
    Is the LEV carbon dropper much lighter? When I look up specs on 175 v. stock 150 fox transfer, they look within 10 g of each other. Am I miss reading?

    My SB100 is 26, with XMC 30ID rims, Guide ultimate and 180/160 brakes, and Bonty XR4/3 tires. Very happy. Wish I had gotten 31mm Enve bars, got 35 and they seem like overkill for this bike, but not many g's there.
    The Lev ci is 100 grams lighter than the Factory Transfer - that's 150mm in 30.9

  36. #2236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    You could take a small block of wood with a dremel rotary tool and sculpture your own press plate. A lot of work considering the plate is $5 from Yeti.

    As for the tight fit, you can freeze the bearings which would reduce the outer diameter slightly, maybe just enough to help press them in.
    Thanks, I was able to get a plate couriered. Do I wait for the plate or let my LBS try with a normal press?

    I will freeze the bearings before attempting to install thanks.

  37. #2237
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    I'm around 24.5lbs with full AXS, 1500g Nobl wheelset, Level Ultimates and a 34SC with Vittoria XC race tires. KS Lev Carbon dropper.

  38. #2238
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    The Lev ci is 100 grams lighter than the Factory Transfer - that's 150mm in 30.9
    Makes sense, I was looking at 175 v. Fox 150.Thx

  39. #2239
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    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    I've got all my specs and mods to the Turq XO1 build up in this thread, but my weights are:
    - 25.18 lbs, w/o pedals (and with Rekon 2.4 WT tires)
    - 25.78 lbs, w/pedals (Shimano M9000), with those Rekons

    I could lose a half-pound to those numbers by switching the tires to 2.35 Ikons, which I do for endurance riding and events.

    Pretty happy with those numbers for this bike, and its capability.

    Edit: Those numbers are without any of the extra bits, like mounts, sensors, bell, etc, but do include a spider power meter.
    Last edited by waltaz; 04-26-2020 at 11:29 AM.
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  40. #2240
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    If people are having problems with rear shock bushings, excessive play... I just got off the phone with ED at Fox, ED is the man at Fox great service!! I replaced my bushings a few times now and still have play..there is a slightly larger polymer shock bushing "white bushing" available that ED recommended, part # 213-01-263 you will need 4 of these. This will fix the problem!!

    Wondering how these 213-01-263 bushings are working out vs the standard hardware kit 803-03-238? I have some play in rear mount of shock at the bushing and Fox recommended I order the 803-03-238

  41. #2241
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    Quote Originally Posted by xseal View Post
    Makes sense, I was looking at 175 v. Fox 150.Thx
    Also note the Lev Ci weight is with lever and cable, the Fox is just the post. If you use the uber-light kevlar cable and thumb-toggle that comes with the Lev CI, it's getting up over 150g. Based on my actual weights for the WT lever and Fox 150 post, and Competitive Cyclist's weights for the KS Lev, I could drop 178g. Not that I've thought about it...

  42. #2242
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    Hey everyone, I'm building a SB100 from the frame up and had some questions.

    First, does anyone know if it takes normal boost cranks or is there an offset?

    Second, how does everyone feel about the stock m1700 wheels? Am looking for a set that is low in cost and was thinking about purchasing some take offs from people selling them.

  43. #2243
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    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    Quote Originally Posted by habaden View Post
    Hey everyone, I'm building a SB100 from the frame up and had some questions.

    First, does anyone know if it takes normal boost cranks or is there an offset?

    Second, how does everyone feel about the stock m1700 wheels? Am looking for a set that is low in cost and was thinking about purchasing some take offs from people selling them.
    IMO hubs are super important in a wheelset.
    Iíve been on many different hubs in the past 6 years that Iíve been riding bikes. I currently own 3 wheelsets, one with DT Swiss 240 and 54t ratchet and the other two are with i9 Hydra.
    Every time Iím getting on my lightweight (1,295g) NEXTIE 25mm internal wheels with DT 240 it makes me miss the Hydra. But of course a good hub will set you at a higher price point, it is a concern.

    As far as the actual wheels, I would recommend to get something between 25mm to 30mm internal. Definitely nothing wider than that. Iíve tried as an experiment to ride my previously owned SB100 with 34mm internal NEXTIE carbon wheels, and it felt too goofy and just didnít sync with the bike. If youíre main riding style is closer to XC then 25mm will be a better choice. If youíre planning to use the bike in a more aggressive way then 30mm would benefit you better.
    I personally really love Ibis wheels, both Aluminum and Carbon. I believe that the Ibis S28 Carbon (28mm internal) will be the perfect suit for SB100. Or if youíre looking for something more budget friendly the aluminum Ibis 933 Logo (29mm internal) will be one of the best options.

    And regarding the cranks theyíre boost. Front ring needs to be 3mm offset. Oval ring by AbsoluteBlack highly recommended! I would recommend shorter cranks like 170 or even 165 to prevent crank strikes, since the BB is pretty low. Iím 6í 2Ē and used to ride on L size frame with 170mm cranks.

    Good Luck!


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  44. #2244
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    Thanks everyone for their feedback on getting my peasant spec SB100 lighter.

    Based on the feedback, I plan to first get a lighter wheelset. Something custom in the 1300-1400g range and ideally with ~30mm internal width (see below). This should save ~500g or so. Next are tires. The DHF/Aggressor combo is a bit too much for the type of riding I do. I think a good compromise for an "aggressive XC"/trail tire are the 29x2.4WT Rekons that waltaz is running. The WT tires apparently work best with a i30mm rim, but some have gotten away with 29 or even 30mm. Regardless, with the tires I could save ~200g and gain lower rolling resistance.

    It actually looks like I could cut quite a bit of weight with different brakes (I have the Guide RS right now).

  45. #2245
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    Quote Originally Posted by scoobydrew View Post
    Thanks everyone for their feedback on getting my peasant spec SB100 lighter.

    Based on the feedback, I plan to first get a lighter wheelset. Something custom in the 1300-1400g range and ideally with ~30mm internal width (see below). This should save ~500g or so. Next are tires. The DHF/Aggressor combo is a bit too much for the type of riding I do. I think a good compromise for an "aggressive XC"/trail tire are the 29x2.4WT Rekons that waltaz is running. The WT tires apparently work best with a i30mm rim, but some have gotten away with 29 or even 30mm. Regardless, with the tires I could save ~200g and gain lower rolling resistance.

    It actually looks like I could cut quite a bit of weight with different brakes (I have the Guide RS right now).
    I recommend
    Lighter and Faster: Front: Rekon2.4 Rear: Rekon Race2.35 or 2.4
    Little more aggressive: F:Rekon2.6 R:Rekon2.4

    More aggressive: Fissector R:Rekon (but heavy)


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  46. #2246
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    I have two sets of wheels, one very light i25 XC race/ripping wheelset (1458g), and one slightly heavier but much tougher i30 wheelset (1636g).

    For all-around summer riding in PA, I run a 2.6 DHF EXO/3C/120tpi front and 2.6 Rekon rear, on the i30s. Not all 2.6 Rekons will fit in the back with appropriate clearance, I have two and only the skinnier seems reasonable to run back there. The 2.4 is a safer bet.

    In the winter I put on a big, heavy, slow 2.6 Magic Mary Soft to chew through frost heave and mud.

    On the i25s, I run a 2.6 Rekon front and 2.35 Ikon or Ardent Race in the back. This rips pretty fast and is quite light (the 2.6 Rekon is the same weight as a 2.35 Ardent Race!). There's massive front grip in the wet, for an XC setup. This is my go-to endurance race XC training setup.

    For 99% dry conditions without anything super-technical, I run a 2.1 Thunder Burt Snakeskin rear and 2.25 Liteskin Racing Ralph up front. This setup is insanely fast on smooth hardpack, and doesn't slow me down much on technical stuff, unless it gets wet and slick... then I'm in trouble.

    FYI, bike weights with these setups:

    27.3 lb with Rekon/DHF on i30
    26.2 lb with Ardent Race/Rekon on i25
    25.2 with Racing Ralph/Thunder Burt.

    This is with a 210mm dropper, XT brakes, GX/X01 mix 11-speed drivetrain, and generally standard nice, light but durable and affordable parts.

    These weight gaps are a little wider than you might think running the numbers on published spec, because I run less sealant in the skinnier tires, and the Schwalbes came in right on spec, but all my Maxxis are about 20-40g heavier than spec.

    Frame is a size L, 2239 g with axle and hanger and seatpost clamp but no SI or shock
    SI is 195 with bolts and cover
    Shock is 276 with bolts
    So 2710g (5.97lb) for a Turq L frame in Turquoise with all the fixins.

  47. #2247
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    Very interesting and helpful. Thank you

  48. #2248
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    i have just swapped out my 2.3 dhf agressor combo for a dhr2 front and rekon rear both in 2.4 wt .
    I am using 30mm int rims and the profile is out on the tire using 2.3s as the sidewall is out further than the side knobs
    looking forward to giving them a try

  49. #2249
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    Really happy with the new tire combo .
    The rekon rolls a lot better than the aggressor and does not seem to have any problems in the corners or with braking . You do notice the sidewall is softer though maybe next time i will get an exo + casing .
    dhr2 2.4 corners a lot nicer on the off camber stuff than my 2.3 dhf on 30mm rims as the side knobs stick out at the correct angle now .
    The dhr2 rolls a bit slower than the dhf 2.3 i think but it hard to tell on the front

  50. #2250
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    Question for the tribe - Should I get a new $2650 '19 SB100?

    I'm a one bike at a time kinda guy, put in 100+ off road miles a week all year 'round, and keep my bikes for years.

    Of course, I've read through this entire thread, and realize that their have been some issues, but also, I know that people are more apt to complain than praise. in general. I'm just wondering what the overall consensus is in regards to this bike.

    I used to have an OG Yeti ARC with the 1 1/4 head tube, and it'd be cool to be back on a Yeti again, plus I think the SB100 is exactly the right bike for me, if it'll last.
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  51. #2251
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    go for it. I usually get a new bike every year but am going on my 2nd year with the sb100 because nothing has come out that I want to replace it with. I have tweaked it over the last 1.5 years with tire choices, different forks and different drivetrains but the frame still gets the job done. I have the updated switch, it loosened on the second ride, put locktite on it, check it occasionally but have had zero issues since. I did have the back shock bolt loosen too which I had to take the swingarm off to get to but tightened it all up and no issues since. It was 26lbs at its heaviest(130mm pike, 30mm carbon rims, 12 speed XTR) but have it a hair over 24lbs now(2021 sid ultimate, xtr 11 spd/garbaruk drivetrain, 27mm carbon rims with berd spokes) It climbs tech like nothing I have ever had and goes down like no 100mm bike deserves to. I don't think you will have any regrets.
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  52. #2252
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    Iím wondering if the new 2.4 Aspen will fit on these 100s using a 30mm rim?

  53. #2253
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vin829 View Post
    Iím wondering if the new 2.4 Aspen will fit on these 100s using a 30mm rim?
    Yes; Iíve run Rekon 2.4 WT on the back on a 30mm rim with no issue at all. Aspen is lower profile than that.


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  54. #2254
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Yes; Iíve run Rekon 2.4 WT on the back on a 30mm rim with no issue at all. Aspen is lower profile than that.


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    Awesome. Thank you. Now i just need them to become available.

  55. #2255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vin829 View Post
    Awesome. Thank you. Now i just need them to become available.
    Indeed; I havenít seen anything on them!


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  56. #2256
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    Random question: Has anyone tried mounting their SB100 on a Wahoo Kickr? In theory, as long as you lock out the rear shock, that should work, right?

    Iíve got a Pivot LES geared HT mounted now, but would rather sell that bike, since Iím just not riding it. The SB100 is so good that I donít see any reason to ride the LES.

    Thanks for any input!


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  57. #2257
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    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Random question: Has anyone tried mounting their SB100 on a Wahoo Kickr? In theory, as long as you lock out the rear shock, that should work, right?

    Iíve got a Pivot LES geared HT mounted now, but would rather sell that bike, since Iím just not riding it. The SB100 is so good that I donít see any reason to ride the LES.

    Thanks for any input!


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    Iíve had mine mounted to my Tacx Neo. Didnít like the amount of flex it put on the frame so I mounted a cheap road bike to it. I put a lot of miles on my trainer so it seemed crazy to wear out a 10k bike riding indoors. It worked fine as far as mounting it.

  58. #2258
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    Fork options

    Quote Originally Posted by tony110672 View Post
    go for it. I usually get a new bike every year but am going on my 2nd year with the sb100 because nothing has come out that I want to replace it with. I have tweaked it over the last 1.5 years with tire choices, different forks and different drivetrains but the frame still gets the job done. I have the updated switch, it loosened on the second ride, put locktite on it, check it occasionally but have had zero issues since. I did have the back shock bolt loosen too which I had to take the swingarm off to get to but tightened it all up and no issues since. It was 26lbs at its heaviest(130mm pike, 30mm carbon rims, 12 speed XTR) but have it a hair over 24lbs now(2021 sid ultimate, xtr 11 spd/garbaruk drivetrain, 27mm carbon rims with berd spokes) It climbs tech like nothing I have ever had and goes down like no 100mm bike deserves to. I don't think you will have any regrets.
    How did you like the Pike Ultimate?

    I am looking into switching the fork on my SB100 (currently running the 34 SC) and the Pike seems a good option vs. a Fox 34 130

    Thanks!

  59. #2259
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    I've just had my SB100 out for it's first ride. Was a replacement frame for my ASR that developed multiple flex issues. Loved it. However, wondering how others are running their oval chainrings? My 30T Oval Absoluteblack chainring looks to have scratched the frame while riding. Unless it was from the chain rubbing when it dropped. But it definitely looks like a scratch. There is about 5mm of clearance between the ring and frame, which I hoped would be enough.
    Photo in the attached link:
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Alhvfve_qS4rn2nGEMfpCyk75WEX

  60. #2260
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgburmie View Post
    I've just had my SB100 out for it's first ride. Was a replacement frame for my ASR that developed multiple flex issues. Loved it. However, wondering how others are running their oval chainrings? My 30T Oval Absoluteblack chainring looks to have scratched the frame while riding. Unless it was from the chain rubbing when it dropped. But it definitely looks like a scratch. There is about 5mm of clearance between the ring and frame, which I hoped would be enough.
    Photo in the attached link:
    https://1drv.ms/u/s!Alhvfve_qS4rn2nGEMfpCyk75WEX
    I am running the Absolute Black in a 30T. I don't have measurements but the ring does not make contact. Also, did you purchase the boost version of the ring? Also, is crank chainline within spec?

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  61. #2261
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    I too am running an AB 30, boost, XTR cranks, no problems whatsoever.
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  62. #2262
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    No I just transferred my existing crankset over from my ASR so that sounds like the problem as I doubt the original AB chainring is boost. I'll take a look.

  63. #2263
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawi View Post
    How did you like the Pike Ultimate?

    I am looking into switching the fork on my SB100 (currently running the 34 SC) and the Pike seems a good option vs. a Fox 34 130

    Thanks!
    I actually went back to the pike after riding it with the sid. for me a 130 pike is the perfect fork for this bike. I hated the 34sc. the new sid raceday is better then the 34sc and is very smooth just do like that little extra travel.
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  64. #2264
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertVelo View Post
    I am running the Absolute Black in a 30T. I don't have measurements but the ring does not make contact. Also, did you purchase the boost version of the ring? Also, is crank chainline within spec?

    Sent from the singletrack...
    I'm running 32 oval SRAM, works terrific.

  65. #2265
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    Question for anyone who has serviced there own rear shock. How do you remove the plastic spacer on the bottom eyelid of the shock. Itís a tight fit to get the air can back on and I donít want to nick the new seal

  66. #2266
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    My precious.
    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-_dsc3787-3-.jpg

  67. #2267
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    Refer to this Fox Service link:
    https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=251

    I donít really like that they are cramming all the different type eyelets service procedures together on one page but drop down to the 5-Piece Flanged Bushing. Fortunately, you do not need to take it all apart to get the air can back on.

    Slick Honey helps with keeping the seals from getting damaged during assembly.
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  68. #2268
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    Canyon Eject Hydration System up front, 800ml.
    Nalgene bottle down below. 1,000ml.

    Size medium frame.


    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-50042392317_f310648382_b.jpg

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  69. #2269
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    Eject water bottles

    Was not aware of the Eject solution, Looks like a great option for the SB100
    How does it work as far as the clearances to your legs?
    Also, how's the bottles ? I really prefar insulated bottles to holds the water cool a few hours in the Socal hot weather.
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  70. #2270
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    Thanks for the info. Excuse my ignorance but what's the chainline measurement for a medium frame? Sounds like I need to upgrade my crankset. What do you recommend for the Shimano BB92 pressfit?

  71. #2271
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    Was not aware of the Eject solution, Looks like a great option for the SB100
    How does it work as far as the clearances to your legs?
    Also, how's the bottles ? I really prefar insulated bottles to holds the water cool a few hours in the Socal hot weather.
    It appears the Canyon Eject is no longer available. I hope they bring it back. I bought it a year or two ago for my small Intense Spider 275c since that frame can't fit a regular bottle. The recently announced Revel Ranger inspired me to try this set up on my SB100 in front front of the shock. So far had only one gravel work out ride since the install, no interference issues... yet. While the Eject was on the small Intense, it was sitting between the crank arms (with clearance) and no issues there what so ever. The bottles are secure enough to handle rough trails and jumps, and can be remove and re-apply easily. The system also has an integrated air pump holder which is awesome.

    I look forward to getting it to the trails and see if it would bother my knees. TBD.

    The bottles are just simple plastic bottles, no insulation. The nozzle is harder to pull out than others but that's minor. The small bottles are popular with my kids since they are easy to hold. I don't let them use my Eject bottles much because I'm afraid they'll loose it, especially since I can't buy another set.

    I don't really use insulated bottles since insulation takes up precious water carrying capacity. I just freeze my water for long rides.

  72. #2272
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    Hi guys,

    Disappointed SB100 owner here. Just got into MTB about 2 years ago (I'm 46 yr old) -- Ordered the frame from my LBS here in Malaysia last September, and it took em more than 5 months to deliver (bike collected on 20th Feb 2020). Only managed to ride it for less than a month due to my country's Covid19 lockdown since 19th March.

    I just resumed riding again as the lockdown was lifted 2 weeks ago. Rode for few kilometres today and the frame cracked (rider weight 90kg) when I skidded at my local muddy trail (rather mellow trail, pic attached) and crashed. As soon as the bike skidded I heard a loud noise and feared the worst. Had to walk the bike home for 6km.

    Called my LBS and showed them the pics of the damaged bike frame, also explained to them how it happened. They called up our local Yeti distributor and gave me the impression that the distributor is trying to pin the blame on me and reluctant to swap/ replace the frame.

    This is my 1st ever Yeti (was on a Specialized Epic Comp Carbon 18 for 16 months), made my purchase decision based on the positive web / Youtube reviews on the SB100 -- now I'm stuck with no bike (the Epic was sold) and my local Yeti distributor is giving me sh*t and not helping much. From the look of things it could take months for me to get back to the trails again (IF I can get a replacement).

    Is [email protected] the only way I can contact Yeti to get this resolved? In the past I've tried emailing to that address and never gotten a reply. Their FB page doesn't seem to have a "Message" button to get in touch with em.

    Appreciate any suggestion/ feedback: should I try to get ahold of Yeti to get them to assist, or should I cut my loss and get a new frame from a different manufacturer (Revel/ Santa Cruz). I absolutely adored this bike but I'm afraid that similar thing will happen again with a replacement frame.

    Thanks in advance








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  73. #2273
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    Wowóthat is dramatic damage. Is there any chance that a previous mishap had dinged the top tube or something like that? Have they (shop/Yeti) talked about crash replacement options?

  74. #2274
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    not only the top tube but seat tube as well, while a minir crash can always damage a frame if a rock hits it the wrong way I cant really explain how this damage happen on both top and seat tube!

    You should try to contact yeti, they should have the final say not s distributor!

  75. #2275
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    He said he's having a difficult time getting anyone from yeti to respond.

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  76. #2276
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    they have a chat and a phone number, I was able to contact them using the chat in the past. but really your shop should advocate for you in this case and work for you, that's why you go to a LBS, if they can't or are not willing to help you then why use a shop?

    tell them to contact yeti!

  77. #2277
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    I agree. If your LBS can't help you, then they are useless.

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  78. #2278
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    Wanna make sure I understand this correctly, you rode through some mud, slipped and that crack occurred? Must have been one awkward aggressive fall. My SB100 fell
    Off my bike rack going 55mph down a paved road and while it got the crap beat out it, nothing cracked.

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    Although never on warranty issues, I've found Yeti to be responsive to e-mail inquiries. It might take a couple days, but they have always responded to my e-mails. Haven't tried the chat. Probably wouldn't hurt to include a link to this thread as well. Also, agree with others that LBS should be helping more.

  80. #2280
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    Quote Originally Posted by adliew View Post
    Hi guys,

    Rode for few kilometres today and the frame cracked (rider weight 90kg) when I skidded at my local muddy trail (rather mellow trail, pic attached) and crashed. As soon as the bike skidded I heard a loud noise and feared the worst. Had to walk the bike home for 6km.
    Really sorry for your loss.
    It must have been a hell of a crash to crack the frame like that in 2 locations.
    But I don't think the warranty covers crashes, only manufacturers defects.
    They may offer you a crash replacement at a good price
    Good luck !
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  81. #2281
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    Also Contact Yeti on their Instagram account via Private message. along with Photos and an explanation to what exactly happened in Detail. The more info you give the better chance they'll help you get your frame warrantied without cost. If thats indeed how that frame cracked in both places then it's likely a manufaturers defect on the TT which also caused the ST to stress.
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  82. #2282
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    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    My SB100 fell
    Off my bike rack going 55mph down a paved road and while it got the crap beat out it, nothing cracked.
    This is definitely one of my nightmares when I've got my bike on the rack (Yakima Holdup which - knock on wood - has been awesome).

    How did that happen?

  83. #2283
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejj View Post
    Wowóthat is dramatic damage. Is there any chance that a previous mishap had dinged the top tube or something like that? Have they (shop/Yeti) talked about crash replacement options?
    No prior incident before this -- i wash my bike after every ride & never noticed any dings/scratches on it. It's my 1st "expensive" bike so I took pretty good care of it lol.

    I've probably exaggerated slightly on my previous message that it was a crash. In actuality the bike just slipped while going through some mud and I fell. I could hear the loud cracking noise as soon as the bike slipped before I fell.

    Thanks all for your kind replies and suggestions. I've sent an email to Yeti yesterday hopefully will get a reply in the next few days. Will try to DM them via Instagram as suggested above (thanks!) in case the email isn't responded.

    I will bring the bike to my LBS for accessing today. Hopefully they will assist after taking a better look. It seems this could take months before I could go back to riding again.

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  84. #2284
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    Good luck with your pursuit. Iíve never seen a crack like that with a huge straight dent. I can see why your shop might be skepticalóit almost looks like someone vandalized it with a tree branch! Iím not saying thatís what happenedójust that it looks bonkers.

  85. #2285
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    This is definitely one of my nightmares when I've got my bike on the rack (Yakima Holdup which - knock on wood - has been awesome).

    How did that happen?
    Forgot to strap in the rear wheel. Hit a rough patch or road and the rear wheel bounced out of the tray. Total bone headed move on my part. Iíve been riding for 15 + years and have never done that before.

  86. #2286
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    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    It will be interesting to see if we can update the new hardware from SB115, without switching out the Infitinity Link. I am not sure if there are threads in the actual link as well as the new bolts/locking nuts.

    https://yeticyclescom.cdn.prismic.io...nual_SB115.pdf

  87. #2287
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    Iím sure it will fitóthe frame is the sameóitís just the link and shock that are different. SB115 adds bigger tires and brakes, slightly bigger fork.

  88. #2288
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    I called yeti and this is what I got regarding upgrading sb100 to sb115 ď the front and rear triangle are the same. The switch infinity and infinity mounting hardware have all been updated as well as the linkage and shock (obviously).

    Later this fall yeti will offer the new mounting hardware for the current sb100 (itís hardware for our current configuration and it does not convert it to the sb115).

    Nothing has been mentioned to the yeti staff about offering the new infinity / shock kit to current sb100 owners. Thatís not to say they wonít but as of now itís not offered. It was explained to me that the current available hardware will need to be allocated to current 115 frames which is totally understandable.

    I personally donít see this kit making a huge difference and probably shouldnít be something we just gotta have. Iíll definitely upgrade if they make it available as I think the extra 15mm is a no brainer for those of us who use our sb100ís for more aggressive trail riding.

  89. #2289
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    I did a service of the SI system today, and one of the bolts does not sit flush with the frame. The opposite bolt is flush. I don't think it have been like this before. I did remove an reset the bolt, but still not flush. Any ideas?

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  90. #2290
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    Hi! My 2019 SB100 GX Comp just arrived. I like it but I thinking to change the chainring to 34 oval. Do I need to add more links to the chain or buy a new one (actually it is brand new)
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  91. #2291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ati007 View Post
    Hi! My 2019 SB100 GX Comp just arrived. I like it but I thinking to change the chainring to 34 oval. Do I need to add more links to the chain or buy a new one (actually it is brand new)
    Youíre jumping 4 teeth in the front chain ring? Probably gonna need a longer chain unfortunately

  92. #2292
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    I did a service of the SI system today, and one of the bolts does not sit flush with the frame. The opposite bolt is flush. I don't think it have been like this before. I did remove an reset the bolt, but still not flush. Any ideas?
    That doesn't look right to me. Just did mine and both sides sit flush. The SI stanchions have asymmetric mounts - are they installed in the correct orientation?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-20-07-02-13-58-04-6965.jpg  

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-20-07-02-13-58-15-6966.jpg  


  93. #2293
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    Dont think a new chain is needed

    Quote Originally Posted by Ati007 View Post
    Hi! My 2019 SB100 GX Comp just arrived. I like it but I thinking to change the chainring to 34 oval. Do I need to add more links to the chain or buy a new one (actually it is brand new)
    Hello,

    I have a SB100 with T1 I believe (Sram X01), it uses a GX chain so I guess its the same as yours.

    I recently changed to a 34T absoluteblack oval and did not change the chain, so far I've got no issues (like 3 months). I switched it also on my old SB5c and also no issues (that one I used for 2 years without any problem with the chain).

    My 2c: switch the chainring and unless so have any problem keep the current chain.

    cheers.

  94. #2294
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    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Forgot to strap in the rear wheel. Hit a rough patch or road and the rear wheel bounced out of the tray. Total bone headed move on my part. Iíve been riding for 15 + years and have never done that before.
    You'll probably never do it again either

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  95. #2295
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    Cool SB100 build vid...


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  96. #2296
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejj View Post
    Iím 6í2.5Ē on an XL and I love it. I liked it right away, but now after a few months I am more comfortable on the bike and know how to ride it. Itís awesome.

    The black frame looks great. But I bought the turquoise because Yeti.

    I bought the GX comp as it was a solid build and the cheapest option at the time. If I were buying again Iíd consider the GX (non-comp) and buy a set of carbon wheels. The genius of the bike is really in the suspension and handling. Money just makes it lighter, for the most part.
    Same here! 6'2.5" on an xl and fits perfect!

  97. #2297
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    Here's mine in an XL! Love this thing!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-yeti-sb100.jpg  


  98. #2298
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    So, I put the fox bearing kit into my SB100. This has been discussed here before. It's this new wider link:

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...conversion-kit

    And this bearing:

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Fox-Roller...k-Hardware-Kit

    Upside - less shock stiction and friction on the lower bearing, which sees a lot of angular movement. Downsides - I picked up a creak/pop from the bearing that I couldn't figure out (it seemed to be in the Fox bearing assembly, not the Yeti link), and also realized that you can't service the air sleeve with the bearing kit on it. And, to take it off, you need this $110 tool kit:

    https://www.competitivecyclist.com/f...-assembly-tool

    I have a machine shop so I was able to fab something to get it off, but now that the popping noise is gone and shock service is easier... I won't be putting the bearing kit back in. I couldn't notice a performance increase from it anyway. So, save your pennies if you are thinking about this!

  99. #2299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autoxfil View Post
    So, I put the fox bearing kit into my SB100. This has been discussed here before. It's this new wider link:

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...conversion-kit

    And this bearing:

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Fox-Roller...k-Hardware-Kit

    Upside - less shock stiction and friction on the lower bearing, which sees a lot of angular movement. Downsides - I picked up a creak/pop from the bearing that I couldn't figure out (it seemed to be in the Fox bearing assembly, not the Yeti link), and also realized that you can't service the air sleeve with the bearing kit on it. And, to take it off, you need this $110 tool kit:

    https://www.competitivecyclist.com/f...-assembly-tool

    I have a machine shop so I was able to fab something to get it off, but now that the popping noise is gone and shock service is easier... I won't be putting the bearing kit back in. I couldn't notice a performance increase from it anyway. So, save your pennies if you are thinking about this!
    Appreciate you sharing your experience. I was thinking about it, but thereís nothing wrong with the stock one I have with with almost 2000 miles on it. Guess Iíll skip it.
    Bikes are my time machines.

  100. #2300
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autoxfil View Post
    So, I put the fox bearing kit into my SB100. This has been discussed here before. It's this new wider link:

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...conversion-kit

    And this bearing:

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Fox-Roller...k-Hardware-Kit

    Upside - less shock stiction and friction on the lower bearing, which sees a lot of angular movement. Downsides - I picked up a creak/pop from the bearing that I couldn't figure out (it seemed to be in the Fox bearing assembly, not the Yeti link), and also realized that you can't service the air sleeve with the bearing kit on it. And, to take it off, you need this $110 tool kit:

    https://www.competitivecyclist.com/f...-assembly-tool

    I have a machine shop so I was able to fab something to get it off, but now that the popping noise is gone and shock service is easier... I won't be putting the bearing kit back in. I couldn't notice a performance increase from it anyway. So, save your pennies if you are thinking about this!
    I put it in and it creaked like crazy. Tried numerous times to get it to stop. I ended up going back to the stock setup as well. Waste of money.

  101. #2301
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    creak and flex free 2 yrs strong

    205 lbs and my sb100 doesn't make a sound nor does it flex. Love this bike!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-100-1.jpg  

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-100-2.jpg  

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-100-3.jpg  


  102. #2302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Autoxfil View Post
    So, I put the fox bearing kit into my SB100. This has been discussed here before. It's this new wider link:

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...conversion-kit

    And this bearing:

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Fox-Roller...k-Hardware-Kit

    Upside - less shock stiction and friction on the lower bearing, which sees a lot of angular movement. Downsides - I picked up a creak/pop from the bearing that I couldn't figure out (it seemed to be in the Fox bearing assembly, not the Yeti link), and also realized that you can't service the air sleeve with the bearing kit on it. And, to take it off, you need this $110 tool kit:

    https://www.competitivecyclist.com/f...-assembly-tool

    I have a machine shop so I was able to fab something to get it off, but now that the popping noise is gone and shock service is easier... I won't be putting the bearing kit back in. I couldn't notice a performance increase from it anyway. So, save your pennies if you are thinking about this!
    I bought the first two (link and bearing) and then realized like you I needed a tool to take off the new bearings to service the air sleeve. So didn't bother going ahead with it.

    I did install the new link - since I had already bought it - with the included bushing. No difference of course.

  103. #2303
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    This looks like a new part to address some of the creaking, flexing issue. Anyone gotten these yet?

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...on-kit-kashima

  104. #2304
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    Quote Originally Posted by misterha View Post
    This looks like a new part to address some of the creaking, flexing issue. Anyone gotten these yet?

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...on-kit-kashima

    if your switch infinity cover snaps on vs screws on thatís a possible indication you have the updated hardware. Mine came with the updated SI and like I stated before, Zero issues. I ride mine extremely aggressively at 200lbs. One of my favorite bikes to date.

  105. #2305
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    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    if your switch infinity cover snaps on vs screws on thatís a possible indication you have the updated hardware. Mine came with the updated SI and like I stated before, Zero issues. I ride mine extremely aggressively at 200lbs. One of my favorite bikes to date.
    good to know with my 140lbs weight

  106. #2306
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    So this is the new link for the slightly longer shock, making it 115mm of travel. Not sure why it wouldn't work on the SB100

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...link-w-bearing

    "Cannot be used on SB100 due to hardware differences"

  107. #2307
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    Quote Originally Posted by misterha View Post
    This looks like a new part to address some of the creaking, flexing issue. Anyone gotten these yet?

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...on-kit-kashima
    I have it being installed on mine right now. Will report back once I have ridden it.

  108. #2308
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    So this is the new link for the slightly longer shock, making it 115mm of travel. Not sure why it wouldn't work on the SB100

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...link-w-bearing

    "Cannot be used on SB100 due to hardware differences"
    I believe one of the differences is the new SB115 SI is threaded to work with the new link. Since we do not have specs, tough to say. The new link does have everyone wondering, however.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  109. #2309
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkB View Post
    I have it being installed on mine right now. Will report back once I have ridden it.
    Can you confirm that this is the new threaded kit with the beefier bolts like the SB115 has?

  110. #2310
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    So, considering to get a used 130 mm fork for even more trail-friendly geo.
    Have anyone done the math for geo numbers?

    Fox 34 and RS Pike the obvious candidates. Any other I should consider? Only 44 mm offset or will 51 mm do?

    Sent fra min SM-G973F via Tapatalk

  111. #2311
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    Iíd guess geometry would somewhere between the 100 and 115. Considering itís the same frame with different shock length.


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  112. #2312
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    Pinkbike appeared to spill some beans that the 100 is being removed from the lineup in the near future with only the 115 remaining, see comments on the XC Field Test.

  113. #2313
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cmon77 View Post
    So, considering to get a used 130 mm fork for even more trail-friendly geo.
    Have anyone done the math for geo numbers?

    Fox 34 and RS Pike the obvious candidates. Any other I should consider? Only 44 mm offset or will 51 mm do?

    Sent fra min SM-G973F via Tapatalk

    I ran mine with a 130mm fork for a while before I bought an sb130. Slackens ST, HT, and raises BB maybe half degree. Honestly I didnít notice much difference.

    FWIW - when I placed my xcr25 wheels on my SB130, I was blown away by how much it woke up The SB130, I was getting damn near the same times on my SB100. My point is if SB100 owners are wanting more bike, Iíd consider going sb130 with a more trail friendly set up like a pike fork and narrower tires and rims.

    im actually considering selling my Sb100 and just having two sets of wheels/tires for my sb130. Still on the fence though, as the precision handling of the sb100 is so rewarding on certain types of trails.

  114. #2314
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    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    I ran mine with a 130mm fork for a while before I bought an sb130. Slackens ST, HT, and raises BB maybe half degree. Honestly I didnít notice much difference.

    FWIW - when I placed my xcr25 wheels on my SB130, I was blown away by how much it woke up The SB130, I was getting damn near the same times on my SB100. My point is if SB100 owners are wanting more bike, Iíd consider going sb130 with a more trail friendly set up like a pike fork and narrower tires and rims.

    im actually considering selling my Sb100 and just having two sets of wheels/tires for my sb130. Still on the fence though, as the precision handling of the sb100 is so rewarding on certain types of trails.
    Thanks for your experiences. I do want the 130, but I am not convinced it will be "light" enough for my xc endurance events which I participate in a couple of times pr season.

    Sent fra min SM-G973F via Tapatalk

  115. #2315
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    I got the chance to own a SB100 Beti. Its a Turq M frame in pink and is 100% like the normal one. BUT the Fox shock is a different tune; DJNS.

    The bike rides fine but the shock is made for lightweigjht riders (the Yeti site claims) and I am 77kg (169lbs). Situation:
    - 170psi (13 bar) in the shock
    - no volume spacers
    - frame & shock are new
    - roughly >=30% sag (as recommended)
    - shock reacts well on small bumps
    - uses only 70% even in the bumbiest rides
    - the shock wobbles / works heavily when pedalling making the bike ineffecient (what the demo did not do at all).
    What should I do?

  116. #2316
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cmon77 View Post
    So, considering to get a used 130 mm fork for even more trail-friendly geo.
    Have anyone done the math for geo numbers?

    Fox 34 and RS Pike the obvious candidates. Any other I should consider? Only 44 mm offset or will 51 mm do?

    Sent fra min SM-G973F via Tapatalk
    I've seen some people recommend the MRP fork.

  117. #2317
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    If I was getting a new fork for the 100 Iíd get the cane creek helm works model. Basically made for the 100.

  118. #2318
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    I got the chance to own a SB100 Beti. Its a Turq M frame in pink and is 100% like the normal one. BUT the Fox shock is a different tune; DJNS.

    The bike rides fine but the shock is made for lightweigjht riders (the Yeti site claims) and I am 77kg (169lbs). Situation:
    - 170psi (13 bar) in the shock
    - no volume spacers
    - frame & shock are new
    - roughly >=30% sag (as recommended)
    - shock reacts well on small bumps
    - uses only 70% even in the bumbiest rides
    - the shock wobbles / works heavily when pedalling making the bike ineffecient (what the demo did not do at all).
    What should I do?
    I'm 155lb and the standard (non-Betti) tune is really good for me. The suspension is very active while pedaling, but in a good way. I do bump the compression lever to the middle setting for dirt jumps, to get a little more pop.

    So, it's not shocking at at 170lb, you're finding the damping too soft on the Betti. Options:

    1) Ride it with the low-speed lever in the middle setting all the time. Have you tried this? It should really firm it up. You can also bump the pressure up a little bit and aim for more like 25% sag, but you might find you don't get the travel you want on big hits, then.
    2) Have it re-valved to the standard tune (tune ID is DWBL). This is about $200, but you get a full service out of it. So, if you find the middle compression setting livable, you could wait a couple years and then get it re-valved when it needs service.
    3) Find someone with an SB100 who wants a lighter tune, and trade them shocks! If you can find this person, it's a free win-win for both of you.

  119. #2319
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cmon77 View Post
    Thanks for your experiences. I do want the 130, but I am not convinced it will be "light" enough for my xc endurance events which I participate in a couple of times pr season.

    Sent fra min SM-G973F via Tapatalk
    How close to the front of these races are you? The SB100 certainly has a racier feel, but an SB130 with Aspens on light wheels is faster than an SB100 with Ardents stock rims, on most trails.

    In other words, tires and wheels make such a massive difference in bike speed, that if you're not concerned about a few minutes in a 4-8 hour race, the SB130 might just work fine.

    You could also convert your SB100 to an SB115 with a new shock yoke. I THINK the shock might just need a spacer removed to get to 45mm travel, but you'd have to check with Fox, since you'll need a qualified re-builder to pull the damper apart anyway. Or just buy a new shock and sell yours.

    I would personally run a 130-140mm fork with a 9point8 Slack-R IS headset adjuster to get -1.5* slacker.

  120. #2320
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    If I was getting a new fork for the 100 Iíd get the cane creek helm works model. Basically made for the 100.
    FWIW in the discussion, I just did, not the Works Series, which is discontinued I think, but the new HELM MKII model. Coming from a DVO Sapphire, which was pretty good, holy cow, this transformed the bike. Happy but not too surprised as I think that the HELM is the best feeling fork on the market right now, especially now the new air spring makes it more useable for a wider range of riders ( i.e. not only the super aggressive ones).

  121. #2321
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboyd122 View Post
    Can you confirm that this is the new threaded kit with the beefier bolts like the SB115 has?
    Yes it is. Have gone on 5 rides now with it and it definitely feels that it firmed up the back end of the bike. Worthwhile for me for sure.

    I have an older SB100, it originally came with the V1 SI that was stiff but creaky, then it was updated to V2 which had no creaks but had more flex and came loose, then it got the nylock update which prevented it coming loose, but still had the flex. Now all of those issues are gone (as much as I can tell in 5 rides anyway).

    I am not interested in the new link and shock to convert to 115 as I already have a 130 and feel they will be getting too close to each other and I love the 100 as it is.

  122. #2322
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkB View Post
    Yes it is. Have gone on 5 rides now with it and it definitely feels that it firmed up the back end of the bike. Worthwhile for me for sure.

    I have an older SB100, it originally came with the V1 SI that was stiff but creaky, then it was updated to V2 which had no creaks but had more flex and came loose, then it got the nylock update which prevented it coming loose, but still had the flex. Now all of those issues are gone (as much as I can tell in 5 rides anyway).

    I am not interested in the new link and shock to convert to 115 as I already have a 130 and feel they will be getting too close to each other and I love the 100 as it is.
    Thanks for this. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I also have an early SB100, almost exactly 2 years old. Iím on the fence between fixing up the back end (also need new bushings) or swapping components over to an SB115 frame with 130 fork. I have a SB150 for my big bike so I donít feel the SB115 is too close. My SB100 currently serves as my endurance race/trail bike. I regularly put it in situations where I would like a burlier fork than the Fox 34 120SC but I like the racy feel of the SB100 as well. My build is very much XC oriented weighing in at 24 lbs. I feel like I wouldnít be losing anything building the SB115 the same way and only adding a half pound going to the bigger fork. Also I know if I can get the back end of my SB100 stiffer and be really happy with it. Sitting on the fence. My wife prefers the cheaper option. My inner magpie wants the SB115 lol.

  123. #2323
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    Anyone using a SB100 and a SB130? If so did you go for the same size? Only ask as I want to get one but I tried an Orbea occam in XL and it has a longer reach than my XL SB100 on paper but in real life itís shorter. Itís pretty much similar geo numbers to an SB130 but I find Iím almost going over the bars when I stand up and itís bit dodgy round corners.
    SB100 is perfect but I feel I want a beefier bike, 36, minions etc that I can just chuck into stuff without changing the 100ís lightweight set up.

  124. #2324
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboyd122 View Post
    Thanks for this. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I also have an early SB100, almost exactly 2 years old. Iím on the fence between fixing up the back end (also need new bushings) or swapping components over to an SB115 frame with 130 fork. I have a SB150 for my big bike so I donít feel the SB115 is too close. My SB100 currently serves as my endurance race/trail bike. I regularly put it in situations where I would like a burlier fork than the Fox 34 120SC but I like the racy feel of the SB100 as well. My build is very much XC oriented weighing in at 24 lbs. I feel like I wouldnít be losing anything building the SB115 the same way and only adding a half pound going to the bigger fork. Also I know if I can get the back end of my SB100 stiffer and be really happy with it. Sitting on the fence. My wife prefers the cheaper option. My inner magpie wants the SB115 lol.
    Have you confirmed or know anyone that has put the sb115 SI and upper link on their sb100 and is compatible?

  125. #2325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robby1 View Post
    Anyone using a SB100 and a SB130? If so did you go for the same size? Only ask as I want to get one but I tried an Orbea occam in XL and it has a longer reach than my XL SB100 on paper but in real life itís shorter. Itís pretty much similar geo numbers to an SB130 but I find Iím almost going over the bars when I stand up and itís bit dodgy round corners.
    SB100 is perfect but I feel I want a beefier bike, 36, minions etc that I can just chuck into stuff without changing the 100ís lightweight set up.
    Iím on a Large SB100, and have a Large SB130 LR on order for the same reasons. Iím 5í10Ē and right in-between sizes for each, but the Large SB100 fits me perfectly, so Iím going with the same on the 130.


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  126. #2326
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    Quote Originally Posted by misterha View Post
    Have you confirmed or know anyone that has put the sb115 SI and upper link on their sb100 and is compatible?
    My understanding is that the SB115 linkage is not compatible (or al least Yeti won't support it) with the SB100 frame. Hence why I'm considering the new frame. A decision will be made on Monday, I'll keep you posted.

  127. #2327
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robby1 View Post
    Anyone using a SB100 and a SB130? If so did you go for the same size? Only ask as I want to get one but I tried an Orbea occam in XL and it has a longer reach than my XL SB100 on paper but in real life itís shorter. Itís pretty much similar geo numbers to an SB130 but I find Iím almost going over the bars when I stand up and itís bit dodgy round corners.
    SB100 is perfect but I feel I want a beefier bike, 36, minions etc that I can just chuck into stuff without changing the 100ís lightweight set up.

    5í10 and own a medium on both. Both fit about the same in cockpit. Wheelbase is longer on sb130. Depending on your riding style, local trails, and individual preference will determine The size you go with if in between sizes. Thereís no right or wrong size.

  128. #2328
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    If I was getting a new fork for the 100 Iíd get the cane creek helm works model. Basically made for the 100.
    Wish it wasn't 2000 grams

  129. #2329
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robby1 View Post
    Anyone using a SB100 and a SB130? If so did you go for the same size? Only ask as I want to get one but I tried an Orbea occam in XL and it has a longer reach than my XL SB100 on paper but in real life itís shorter. Itís pretty much similar geo numbers to an SB130 but I find Iím almost going over the bars when I stand up and itís bit dodgy round corners.
    SB100 is perfect but I feel I want a beefier bike, 36, minions etc that I can just chuck into stuff without changing the 100ís lightweight set up.
    I have both, both are size L.

    Both fit well, but the 100 is more compact and the 130 has more reach.

  130. #2330
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    Despite my wifeís better judgement I went forward with the SB115 frame in anthracite. Iíll be sure to post up some pictures of my build in the SB115 thread once itís ready. The frame should be at the shop in about 3 weeks.

  131. #2331
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboyd122 View Post
    Despite my wifeís better judgement I went forward with the SB115 frame in anthracite. Iíll be sure to post up some pictures of my build in the SB115 thread once itís ready. The frame should be at the shop in about 3 weeks.
    What kind of build are you thinking of? Personally, I'm on the fence about buying one (wife and wallet considerations) and then whether to build up or go with the T1 Shimano build. I have the T1 Shimano SB140 with few/no complaints but if went with a build might start with chinese carbon (or other option carbon rims), a 760 bar (though could cut down the 780), and am not sure about the Silverado saddle, but do like the Volt on my SBS140, and a longer dropper if I went with a small frame - but moot if I go with a medium. Also thinking Schwalbe tires, but have read that despite 2.35 listing, they come out closer to 2.5. Would probably stick with the fox 34, particularly if I can find a discount on last year's fit4.

  132. #2332
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdg1 View Post
    What kind of build are you thinking of? Personally, I'm on the fence about buying one (wife and wallet considerations) and then whether to build up or go with the T1 Shimano build. I have the T1 Shimano SB140 with few/no complaints but if went with a build might start with chinese carbon (or other option carbon rims), a 760 bar (though could cut down the 780), and am not sure about the Silverado saddle, but do like the Volt on my SBS140, and a longer dropper if I went with a small frame - but moot if I go with a medium. Also thinking Schwalbe tires, but have read that despite 2.35 listing, they come out closer to 2.5. Would probably stick with the fox 34, particularly if I can find a discount on last year's fit4.
    My SB100 has a super lightweight build. I'll be transferring all the parts except the BB, headset and fork. In the end it should be a sub 25lb SB115 with Fox34 130 Fit4, ENVE Flat bar (760mm) and stem, SRAM XX1 AXS drivetrain, Quarq Power meter, NOBL TR33/i9 Torch wheels, Bike Yoke Divine SL dropper. I'm currently running Maxxis Ikon 2.25r, Rekon 2.4f tires. I've had lighter on there, but I really like the Rekon up front. In the end I fundamentally will have the same bike that is just a tad more squishy. I ride the SB100 really hard and find myself wanting something a bit more composed for technical descending. My hope is that keeping with the same lightweight build I won't be sacrificing much on climbing and will gain that edge I'm looking for on descending. It's a lot of money to throw at something that looks like splitting hairs but I tend to rotate at least 1 bike every couple years and I've been really happy with the SB100, just wanting a bit better descending capabilities.

    Honestly I thing either the SB100 or SB115 will pair nicely with your SB140. That chassis feels so snappy and quick. I also have a SB150 and I really like having the 2 different bikes to swap between.

  133. #2333
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    Greetings from Spain
    I'm about to buy a SB 100 or SB 115 as my future bike.
    I have a great doubt about the size that I have to choose. I am 187cm (6í 1,5Ē) and have an 88cm inseam.
    I am not sure if I should choose a size L or a size XL
    In Spain there are very few Yeti of these models so almost nobody can advise me, I understand that from the United States there are many more who enjoy this bike and you can advise me on which size to choose.
    Thank you very much and greetings

  134. #2334
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    Quote Originally Posted by 749red View Post
    Greetings from Spain
    I'm about to buy a SB 100 or SB 115 as my future bike.
    I have a great doubt about the size that I have to choose. I am 187cm (6í 1,5Ē) and have an 88cm inseam.
    I am not sure if I should choose a size L or a size XL
    In Spain there are very few Yeti of these models so almost nobody can advise me, I understand that from the United States there are many more who enjoy this bike and you can advise me on which size to choose.
    Thank you very much and greetings
    I think technically you could ride both. Change of stem length to suit your arm length.

    Large for more nimble wheelbase, XL for more stability. It really comes down to personal preference.

    How long are your arms (wing span) compared to your height?


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  135. #2335
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    Quote Originally Posted by 749red View Post
    Greetings from Spain
    I'm about to buy a SB 100 or SB 115 as my future bike.
    I have a great doubt about the size that I have to choose. I am 187cm (6í 1,5Ē) and have an 88cm inseam.
    I am not sure if I should choose a size L or a size XL
    In Spain there are very few Yeti of these models so almost nobody can advise me, I understand that from the United States there are many more who enjoy this bike and you can advise me on which size to choose.
    Thank you very much and greetings
    I am 6' and ride a L SB100.
    I could easily fit on an XL as well. The L for me is more compact and flickable with a slightly more upright riding position - whereas the XL is more stretched out and XC type fit.

    With all of that said, at your size, I would select the XL unless you really prefer a tight, compact cockpit on your bikes.

  136. #2336
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    Quote Originally Posted by kirkB View Post
    I am 6' and ride a L SB100.
    I could easily fit on an XL as well. The L for me is more compact and flickable with a slightly more upright riding position - whereas the XL is more stretched out and XC type fit.

    With all of that said, at your size, I would select the XL unless you really prefer a tight, compact cockpit on your bikes.
    What length stem on the size large?
    You could easily run a ~25mm shorter stem on the XL, corrrct? And achieve the same fit?


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  137. #2337
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    I'm 6', but with a proportionally long torso. Ride an XL with 35mm stem.

  138. #2338
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    Anyone know about the 2021 SB130 colours? Iíve heard some new colours but frame is the same. Releasing next week.

  139. #2339
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    I have a hard time getting grease thru to the SI stanchions. It never pops any out, except at the interface between the bolt and the SI carrier. At least I know I get some past the grease ports. Any tips or tricks?

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  140. #2340
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    SB100 threaded rail conversion kit

    Anyone upgraded to the new threaded rail conversion kit?

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...on-kit-kashima

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-annotation-2020-08-10-224712.jpg
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  141. #2341
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Anyone upgraded to the new threaded rail conversion kit?

    https://yeticycles.com/gear/detail/s...on-kit-kashima

    I'm installing mine tomorrow
    Yeti 2020 SB165
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  142. #2342
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    We saw it coming with the introduction of the SB115, but now the SB100 is officially dropped from Yeti's lineup https://yeticycles.com/.

  143. #2343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cmon77 View Post
    I have a hard time getting grease thru to the SI stanchions. It never pops any out, except at the interface between the bolt and the SI carrier. At least I know I get some past the grease ports. Any tips or tricks?

    Sent fra min SM-G973F via Tapatalk
    Take a small flare blade screwdriver and give the zero fittings about 1/2 counter clockwise

  144. #2344
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    Quote Originally Posted by localn8ve View Post
    We saw it coming with the introduction of the SB115, but now the SB100 is officially dropped from Yeti's lineup https://yeticycles.com/.
    I hope this means the introduction of SB100-V2 rather than the death of it. The world needs bikes like SB100. I enjoy my very much.

  145. #2345
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vin829 View Post
    Take a small flare blade screwdriver and give the zero fittings about 1/2 counter clockwise
    But i get the grease past the grease-ports. It exits at the threads with the bolt and SI thing.

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  146. #2346
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    Quote Originally Posted by localn8ve View Post
    We saw it coming with the introduction of the SB115, but now the SB100 is officially dropped from Yeti's lineup https://yeticycles.com/.
    Dropping the SB100 is a bad idea IMHO. In their announcement of the 2021 bikes and colors the SB100 did not appear. Its still available browsing their range: https://yeticycles.com/bikes/sb100

  147. #2347
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris29er View Post
    Dropping the SB100 is a bad idea IMHO. In their announcement of the 2021 bikes and colors the SB100 did not appear. Its still available browsing their range: https://yeticycles.com/bikes/sb100
    Theyíre just opening up the door (demand) for a new ASR.

    I bet the new ARCs sell out due to pent up demand for a Yeti hard tail.


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  148. #2348
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I'm installing mine tomorrow
    Do you know the recommended torque numbers for this install? I am waiting on mine.

  149. #2349
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    SB115 manual

    Quote Originally Posted by Trond View Post
    Do you know the recommended torque numbers for this install? I am waiting on mine.

    Refer to SB115 manual:

    https://yeticyclescom.cdn.prismic.io...nual_SB115.pdf
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  150. #2350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Thanks!

  151. #2351
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    Anyone have a lead on deeply discounted NEW SB100 frames?


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  152. #2352
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    Quote Originally Posted by junior77 View Post
    Theyíre just opening up the door (demand) for a new ASR.


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    To me that's the only thing that makes sense.

    Why not keep making the SB100 available - alongside the SB115? Especially when there's such demand right now for bikes with the Sid/SC34 120mm lightweight fork - Spur, Epic Evo, etc.

  153. #2353
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trond View Post
    Thanks!

    Please let us know how the install goes as well as ride impressions. Thanks!
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  154. #2354
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    Quote Originally Posted by jon123 View Post
    To me that's the only thing that makes sense.

    Why not keep making the SB100 available - alongside the SB115? Especially when there's such demand right now for bikes with the Sid/SC34 120mm lightweight fork - Spur, Epic Evo, etc.
    Probably canít make enough from the same mold to keep up with demand for two bikes. *shrug*

    But, I still think this will build up demand for a more XC bike.


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  155. #2355
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    Quote Originally Posted by junior77 View Post
    Probably canít make enough from the same mold to keep up with demand for two bikes. *shrug*

    But, I still think this will build up demand for a more XC bike.


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    The 100 and the 115 use the same front and rear triangle. Not sure why they wonít still offer it

  156. #2356
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    It could be a silent admission that the SB100 was never quite the XC race bike they tried to bill it as when it was first released. I built mine up for endurance XC and multi day XC stage races. But look at what riders like Nate Hills and others on this forum did with theirs from day one. Slap a 130mm fork on it. Hell Nate won a local enduro race on his SB100. By contrast you have Kabush winning XC events. I think it speaks to those individual riders abilities and the ability for this chassis to swing in multiple directions depending on how you build it up. Also speaks to why reviewers had a hard time pigeonholing the SB100/115 into specific categories. Or Iím drinking the cool aid.

  157. #2357
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vin829 View Post
    The 100 and the 115 use the same front and rear triangle. Not sure why they wonít still offer it
    If you can only produce so many frames per year, and that equals the volume of the 115 they expect to sell, easier to manufacture/build maintain 1 bike then maintain 2 inventories of parts.

    Plus, the people that wanted the 100 have already bought it...no sense in taken sales away of the 115.

    Pure speculation...but Iím sure this is a calculated business decision based on factors we are not privy to.


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  158. #2358
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    Quote Originally Posted by junior77 View Post
    If you can only produce so many frames per year, and that equals the volume of the 115 they expect to sell, easier to manufacture/build maintain 1 bike then maintain 2 inventories of parts.

    Plus, the people that wanted the 100 have already bought it...no sense in taken sales away of the 115.

    Pure speculation...but Iím sure this is a calculated business decision based on factors we are not privy to.


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    I personally think it was a great move. The 100 was so capable but a little on the heavy side for a true xc bike. 115 is where it should be just like the previous 4.5... It will get an update in a year or so and get the long, slack, and steep seat tube treatment. Probably get bumped to 120 as well.. Yeti will bring back a true xc full suspension.

  159. #2359
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Please let us know how the install goes as well as ride impressions. Thanks!
    Will do. A broken elbow will keep me off the bike for another month or so unfortunately.

  160. #2360
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    SB100 threaded rail conversion kit

    Well, that did not last long...from Yeti Facebook posting

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-sb100-crack.jpg
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  161. #2361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Well, that did not last long...from Yeti Facebook posting


    Wow. That sucks.
    Bikes are my time machines.

  162. #2362
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    Do I have a cracked SB100 frame?

    Maluco's post prompted me to go have a close look at my frame and this is what I found. Does this count as a crack?

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-sb100-crack-1.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-sb100-crack-2.jpg  


  163. #2363
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    SB100 threaded rail conversion kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Maluco View Post
    Well, that did not last long...from Yeti Facebook posting

    Those little carbon SI mounting tabs have to take an awful lot of stress. I wonder if the new threaded design puts more stress on them, making failures more likely.

  164. #2364
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Yeti makes more money selling a complete bike than a frame only. It's their way to keep their profits up.

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    You think they make thin margins on the frame only?

    I'd argue that they make higher margins on the frame, but more revenue on completes.
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  165. #2365
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    Quote Originally Posted by bayposter View Post
    Those little carbon SI mounting tabs have to take an awful lot of stress. I wonder if the new threaded design puts more stress on them, making failures more likely.
    Any news on this? I have the kit uninstalled as of now

  166. #2366
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    Agree those carbon tabs holding the SI in place appear undersized for the load they need to handle.

    I think our best bet is to watch for this issue with SB115 owners since they are using the updated SI hardware. If there is going to be an issue then it should show quicker on the SB115. But who knows, maybe the SB115 frame has been reinforced in this area.

    We will need to wait and see if Yeti has once again solved one issue only to create another.
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  167. #2367
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBrand View Post
    Maluco's post prompted me to go have a close look at my frame and this is what I found. Does this count as a crack?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SB100 Crack 1.JPG 
Views:	116 
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    Update:
    Our good friends from YETI is sending me a new front triangle

  168. #2368
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    Quote Originally Posted by bayposter View Post
    Those little carbon SI mounting tabs have to take an awful lot of stress. I wonder if the new threaded design puts more stress on them, making failures more likely.
    I was thinking about this more. In the original design of the SI, there were 2 thru bolts. When they switched to 4 separate bolts, that probably increased the stress on the mounting tabs since the bolts can now flex independently. And in the latest design, this stress is probably increased yet again, since the threaded screws tie the SI more tightly to the rear triangle.

  169. #2369
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBrand View Post
    Update:
    Our good friends from YETI is sending me a new front triangle
    Nice! Good thing you checked it out.

  170. #2370
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    Could you potentially swap out the Switch Infinity and the linkage and turn your SB100 to a SB115?
    MyRides - Santa Cruz Tallboy CC, Van Dessel Ramble tamble SS, Look 986 1x10,

  171. #2371
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    Quote Originally Posted by mackdhagen View Post
    Could you potentially swap out the Switch Infinity and the linkage and turn your SB100 to a SB115?
    Could you? Yes

    Will Yeti be cool and allow us to do this? No.. the sobís are being difficult and not selling any of the sb115 hardware currently.

    It is what it is I guess. Gotta sale more bikes.

    Honestly, just slap a 130 on the sb100 and youíll be damn close to a 115. Not a huge difference. Itís just a slight bump in rear travel to sale more bikes.

  172. #2372
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    sb100 Max Tire Width on 25MM Wheel

    I'm looking to move up in tire size to gain a little more stability. I've searched these forums without finding a great answer.

    I'm running to the stock 2.3 Minion/Aggressor combo on the DT Swiss XM 1501 Spine AL 25MM. Would I even notice going to 2.4s? There aren't a lot of options at 2.5. Would 2.6 be pushing the wheel width? Would the Fox 34 Float SC FiT4 be ok with wider tires? Thanks!

  173. #2373
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    Quote Originally Posted by smorgenroth View Post
    I'm looking to move up in tire size to gain a little more stability. I've searched these forums without finding a great answer.

    I'm running to the stock 2.3 Minion/Aggressor combo on the DT Swiss XM 1501 Spine AL 25MM. Would I even notice going to 2.4s? There aren't a lot of options at 2.5. Would 2.6 be pushing the wheel width? Would the Fox 34 Float SC FiT4 be ok with wider tires? Thanks!


    I just ordered enve m630 and they arrived on my doorstep today.. Iím putting dhr II 2.4 up front and a rekon 2.4 on the rear.. Iíll send pics and ride update tomorrow or Saturday

  174. #2374
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    Quote Originally Posted by smorgenroth View Post
    I'm looking to move up in tire size to gain a little more stability. I've searched these forums without finding a great answer.

    I'm running to the stock 2.3 Minion/Aggressor combo on the DT Swiss XM 1501 Spine AL 25MM. Would I even notice going to 2.4s? There aren't a lot of options at 2.5. Would 2.6 be pushing the wheel width? Would the Fox 34 Float SC FiT4 be ok with wider tires? Thanks!
    I run mine with 2.4 Dissector front and 2.4 Rekon rear on 30 mm internal width rims and it's added some stability and control to the bike compared to Ardent Race 2.35/2.2 on 27 mm rims that I had before. I don't think you can fit a 2.6 in the rear.

  175. #2375
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    Anyone here running a RS Sid SL at 120mm? Building a SB100 up now and have a Sid on my SantaCruz Tallboy (BTW anyone every ridden a TB and how does it compare to a sb) which i'm not a huge fan of and love the plush feel of Fox's but addicted to the weights on the Sids. Its wierd you don't see may people with SIDs on these.
    MyRides - Santa Cruz Tallboy CC, Van Dessel Ramble tamble SS, Look 986 1x10,

  176. #2376
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    I have been a long time lurker on this forum, but never posted. I ride a 10.3kg SB100 which was a warranty upgrade from Yeti when my ASR Carbon cracked.

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-img_7193.jpg

    Based on the previous posts about the SI linkage tabs cracking I thought I would check mine and found this....

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-img_0629.jpg

    The frame only has 4500km on it, and a significant amount of that has been on the road as I had a nasty injury in 2019 which took many months to recover from.

    I've now cracked a lot of Yeti frames (the warranty service has always been fabulous), but never really cared as I was riding the bikes really hard. This one, not so much.....

  177. #2377
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    Quote Originally Posted by k3n!f View Post
    Based on the previous posts about the SI linkage tabs cracking I thought I would check mine and found this....


    Do you have the original (V1) SI bolts, the first attempt at a fix (V2), the next attempt with nylock (V3), or the latest attempt with threaded bolts (V4)?

    The V4 bolts shouldn't loosen up like the V1-V3 bolts. However, that means more stress on the carbon tabs that hold the SI. To my eye, those tabs look pretty small for all the stress they have to take (vertical and lateral).

  178. #2378
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    Quote Originally Posted by bayposter View Post
    Do you have the original (V1) SI bolts, the first attempt at a fix (V2), the next attempt with nylock (V3), or the latest attempt with threaded bolts (V4)?

    The V4 bolts shouldn't loosen up like the V1-V3 bolts. However, that means more stress on the carbon tabs that hold the SI. To my eye, those tabs look pretty small for all the stress they have to take (vertical and lateral).
    Unless you are a carbon specialist or engineer, your eye doesnít mean much.

    I have the naked carbon frame and have had zero issues. To me it looks like paint flexed and cracked. Has anyone confirmed that the carbon is actually cracked? I have only seen the issue on the painted frame thus far.

  179. #2379
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    Quote Originally Posted by bayposter View Post
    Do you have the original (V1) SI bolts, the first attempt at a fix (V2), the next attempt with nylock (V3), or the latest attempt with threaded bolts (V4)?
    I know it is not the original one piece V1 bolt, or the latest threaded V4 bolt version. How do you tell the difference between V2 and V3?

  180. #2380
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    Quote Originally Posted by k3n!f View Post
    I know it is not the original one piece V1 bolt, or the latest threaded V4 bolt version. How do you tell the difference between V2 and V3?
    If it has the nylon patch on the thread its V3. With V2 you had to add locktite to the thread.

  181. #2381
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    I'm installing mine tomorrow
    How did the installation go? I'm not sure where to place the washers. The SB115 manual shows 8 washers but this kit is supplied with only 4?

    Also the SB115 replacement kit "SB115 LINEAR BEARING G3 KIT 2021-CURRENT" is supplied with flathead bolts whereas this kit comes with tapered bolts?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  182. #2382
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkusBrand View Post
    How did the installation go? I'm not sure where to place the washers. The SB115 manual shows 8 washers but this kit is supplied with only 4?

    Also the SB115 replacement kit "SB115 LINEAR BEARING G3 KIT 2021-CURRENT" is supplied with flathead bolts whereas this kit comes with tapered bolts?
    Turns out I was supplied with the incorrect Threaded rail kit.

    I was sent a replacement frame for my SB100. The new frame is the SB115 version which is identical apart from the hole in the frame which mounts the SI. So if you get a new SB115 frame you also need to get replacement SI bolts.

    SB100 frame has tapered holes where as the SB115 has flat ones.

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