Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build - Page 10- Mtbr.com
Page 10 of 10 FirstFirst ... 678910
Results 1,801 to 1,904 of 1904
  1. #1801
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DesertVelo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    34
    Using a similar 27mm width WAO wheelset w/Swiss 240s. So far, Maxxis Rekons seem to work well but the 3C compound wears fast. 2.25 front/rear at the moment but I have tried Ardent race 2.35( front) and Rekon 2.25 (rear) with success. My area is flowy high desert, rocks, and climbs...
    Last edited by DesertVelo; 05-16-2019 at 03:30 PM.
    Sent from the singletrack...

  2. #1802
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    Just completed another uplift day at Bike Park Wales .
    I could definately notice the tire sqirm on the hard G outs and it the long downhill berms
    I have got 26mm int rims with 2.3 dhf , 2.3 agg combo .
    Adding more pressure just made me ping off stuff and loose traction .
    Does going to a 30mm inner rim help a lot with sidewall support running the lower pressures ?

  3. #1803
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    Does going to a 30mm inner rim help a lot with sidewall support running the lower pressures ?
    What do you weigh?

    And absolutely! I'm 180 lbs and won't go less than 29/30mm for this type of bike.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  4. #1804
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dagonger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    2,907
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    Just completed another uplift day at Bike Park Wales .
    I could definately notice the tire sqirm on the hard G outs and it the long downhill berms
    I have got 26mm int rims with 2.3 dhf , 2.3 agg combo .
    Adding more pressure just made me ping off stuff and loose traction .
    Does going to a 30mm inner rim help a lot with sidewall support running the lower pressures ?
    Yes it will help.. you could just switch the front rim to 30mm internal to run a 2.4 or 2.5 upfront..

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  5. #1805
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    Just completed another uplift day at Bike Park Wales .
    I could definately notice the tire sqirm on the hard G outs and it the long downhill berms
    I have got 26mm int rims with 2.3 dhf , 2.3 agg combo .
    Adding more pressure just made me ping off stuff and loose traction .
    Does going to a 30mm inner rim help a lot with sidewall support running the lower pressures ?
    A new rim with 30mm ID wonít change a damn thing other then the placebo effect. Adjust rebound and/or go with a thicker casing, EXO is the problem, not the rims.

  6. #1806
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    i weigh 180lbs .
    It is not a suspension issue , deffo tire roll .
    Other than that bike was amazing .
    Maybe tire insert could be another option ?

  7. #1807
    rks
    rks is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    i weigh 180lbs .
    It is not a suspension issue , deffo tire roll .
    Other than that bike was amazing .
    Maybe tire insert could be another option ?
    Check out cushcore.
    The regular one is a bit heavy.
    I went with the xc version.

    Stock DHF is 925g
    Stock aggressor is 900g
    Total tire weight is 1825

    I went with a Rekon 2.4WT f/r on my 30mm rim.
    Rekon is 840g
    Cush core xc 29 set is 150g
    Total tire weight w/CC is 1830

    CC Benefits:
    Being able to safely run lower pressure=more traction.
    Rim protection.
    Flat resistance.
    Burp Resistance.
    SIDEWALL support!
    High frequency chatter dampening.
    Less travel consumption.

    This is not an ad. I was skeptical. I really wanted my sb100 is be a little bit more trail.
    I have CC on my hardtail rear plus tire and it helped. So I figured I go for it.
    So happy I did. It helps so much front and rear on the 100. Iím doing the same drops and have about 10% more suspension travel remaining.
    Iím running my tires 5psi less f/r safely.
    You can spank berm without the tire rolling over.
    The bike rides so much better.
    And the WT has its own list of benefits.

    Keep you tires and rims the same as you have them now and add the Cushcore XC.
    $150 but so worth it.

    If you have or are going to 30mm rims get a WT tire.
    Last edited by rks; 05-19-2019 at 09:25 AM.

  8. #1808
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    Check out cushcore.
    The regular one is a bit heavy.
    I went with the xc version.

    Stock DHF is 925g
    Stock aggressor is 900g
    Total tire weight is 1825

    I went with a Rekon 2.4WT f/r on my 30mm rim.
    Rekon is 840g
    Cush core xc 29 set is 150g
    Total tire weight w/CC is 1830

    CC Benefits:
    Being able to safely run lower pressure=more traction.
    Rim protection.
    Flat resistance.
    Burp Resistance.
    SIDEWALL support!
    High frequency chatter dampening.
    Less travel consumption.

    This is not an ad. I was skeptical. I really wanted my sb100 is be a little bit more trail.
    I have CC on my hardtail rear plus tire and it helped. So I figured I go for it.
    So happy I did. It helps so much front and rear on the 100. Iím doing the same drops and have about 10% more suspension travel remaining.
    Iím running my tires 5psi less f/r safely.
    You can spank berm without the tire rolling over.
    The bike rides so much better.
    And the WT has its own list of benefits.

    Keep you tires and rims the same as you have them now and add the Cushcore XC.
    $150 but so worth it.

    If you have or are going to 30mm rims get a WT tire.
    i have been looking into the inserts as they do alot of the things i am looking for
    the xc version is not available in uk till mid june

  9. #1809
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    496
    Thinking of trying Barzo / Mezcal rear combo.

    How do they come up size wise? Some forums seem to say there is little difference between 2.25 and 2.35. Was thinking of going 2.35 barzo front / 2.25 mezcal rear.

  10. #1810
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    23
    Thinking about pulling the trigger on a used 2018 sb100...seller updated the SI to v2 and claims there arenít any issues. What is everyoneís opinion on buying a used sb100 knowing the issues that some have had with the bike? Would anybody risk it?

    Not having a warranty worries me a little....but the bike just sounds like too much fun.

  11. #1811
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mfa81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,586
    Quote Originally Posted by RxBike View Post
    Thinking about pulling the trigger on a used 2018 sb100...seller updated the SI to v2 and claims there arenít any issues. What is everyoneís opinion on buying a used sb100 knowing the issues that some have had with the bike? Would anybody risk it?

    Not having a warranty worries me a little....but the bike just sounds like too much fun.
    all depends on price... we all knownit had some issues so not having warranty must be accounted for in the price!

    honestly Iím not seeing great prices on yetis on pinkbike whoch shows people are mot really worried assuming these are selling I donít keep track, but Iím thinking a frame should be ~2400 to be worth it used and no warranty

  12. #1812
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    1,850
    Quote Originally Posted by RxBike View Post
    Thinking about pulling the trigger on a used 2018 sb100...seller updated the SI to v2 and claims there arenít any issues. What is everyoneís opinion on buying a used sb100 knowing the issues that some have had with the bike? Would anybody risk it?

    Not having a warranty worries me a little....but the bike just sounds like too much fun.
    Imo, a few had these issues but many blew the situation out of proportion. Go for it.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  13. #1813
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    510
    Quote Originally Posted by RxBike View Post
    Thinking about pulling the trigger on a used 2018 sb100...seller updated the SI to v2 and claims there arenít any issues. What is everyoneís opinion on buying a used sb100 knowing the issues that some have had with the bike? Would anybody risk it?

    Not having a warranty worries me a little....but the bike just sounds like too much fun.
    Besides the SI issue, which IMO, was blown out of proportion, the SB100 seems to be a pretty stout bike. I haven't heard of them having cracked frames like the 130 and 150. Not having warranty does suck, but Yeti sells spare parts which are pretty accessible. The bike is pretty overbuilt for its purpose which is a good thing. But I wouldn't sent it in the bike park.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  14. #1814
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    11
    I personally know 6 people with SB100s, and 4 of them have had the v2 (or newer) SI bolts come loose. Two of these people had the "newer" bolt kit installed as well. I say "newer" because I don't think it's a simple as original hardware vs v2 hardware anymore.

    Here's how I understand it: (And it's possible I'm wrong, so if anyone has corrections please chime in)
    1. Bike released last year with original hardware (squeaky hardware)
    2. Bolts updated to what we have been calling v2. Any bikes bought recently shipped with at least this version of the hardware.
    3. Bolts updated again about a month ago to this version referenced earlier in the thread. I'll call them the v3 bolt.
      https://forums.mtbr.com/yeti/yeti-sb...l#post14055853
    4. According to very trustworthy sources, there is another bolt version in existence that hasn't even made its way to your LBS yet because it is so new. Let's call this the v4 bolt (EDIT: My LBS called me and said these new bolts are exactly the same as the v3 bolts, so it seems like Yeti is misleading me again)


    My bike shipped with at least the v2 bolts installed. Three of the four bolts shook loose after about 5 months (>30 hours ride time). They were replaced with v3 bolts (which shook loose after 6 hours of ride time). My bike is allegedly getting updated to the v4 bolts as we speak.

    My wife's SB100 with v2 bolts has never had a problem, and she's had her bike longer than me.

    I guess the takeaway here is that I don't really know what the hell is going on. Yeti isn't talking to me about it and they're keeping my LBS in the dark too.

    I have more questions than answers for anyone at this point. I just figured I'd get this stuff in the wild in case it helped anybody.

    Why did my v2 bolts last much longer than my v3 bolts?
    When my v2 bolts loosened up, did that cause damage to the frame that made the v3 bolts not work?
    Why are my wife's v2 bolts still working?

    One last thing to consider is that these bolts are very hard to fix if you're caught with this problem in the middle of nowhere. Allegedly you can use a ball end hex key to tighten the hex side of the bolt, but that's only if the T25 side of the bolt isn't so loose that it's freely spinning. If the T25 side is spinning, things get more difficult. You either need to carry a ball end 5mm hex key OR you need to cut down a 5mm hex key to a little stub so that it can fit in between the SI stanchions. You'll also need some thin tool to attempt to hold the T25 in place as you tighten the hex side. If you can't hold the T25 in place with something thin, you'll need to take the swingarm off. That's not hard in theory, but some multitools don't have an 8mm head, and good luck getting those pivot bolts loose with just a multitool. And once you get the swingarm off, you won't be able to reach one of the T25 heads unless you have a very long T25 or a very short T25 since the chainring will be in your way.

    After taking apart 5 of these bikes and tightening the bolts, here's what I would need to bring to quickly fix this in the field:
    • 5mm hex key cut down to fit inside SI stanchions
    • T25 bit (just a bit)
    • Full size 6mm and 8mm hex keys to take the swingarm off
    Last edited by RobertLoblaw; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:41 AM.

  15. #1815
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Imo, a few had these issues but many blew the situation out of proportion. Go for it.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    I have never owned a yeti so I haven't had the opportunity to deal with their customer service, but would Yeti work with me if I were to buy the bike used? I have only rode SC bikes and there are stories of SC replacing frames at crash warranty prices for those that bought the bike second hand. Also, my nearest Yeti dealer is over 3 hours away so I wouldn't be able to "work with my LBS" if I needed replacement parts. So in the event that Yeti releases V4 mounting hardware (see above)...would they upgrade my hardware even though I wouldn't have a warranty?

  16. #1816
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    137
    Got these stubby hex keys at Grainger $14. Mine came loose first 3 rides. Cranked them down tight with Allen key don't have a 13nm wrench.
    They have stayed tight for 4 rides about 70 miles.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-screen-shot-2019-05-21-9.35.08-am.png  


  17. #1817
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1,114
    My shop sawed off a 5mm hex key for me to use on mine. That said, I switched my wife's SI (original version) from her bike with mine (V2 upgrade version). It's noticeably stiffer with the original rods holding it together but I'm just waiting for the creaks that have been discussed. Hopefully they'll never come...
    Pivot Mach 4 SL
    Ibis Ripmo
    Ibis Ripley V4
    Ibis Mojo HD4
    Pivot 429SL
    Pivot LES SS
    Colnago C60 Disc

  18. #1818
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    10
    After debating on going Ibis Ripley V4 or SB100, I pulled the trigger on the SB100. Looking forward to seeing how she rides.

  19. #1819
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    496
    Good choice. It a singletrack weapon. I was keeping an eye on the ripley but i think they went too far with the new one.

  20. #1820
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by ahbot-everlast View Post
    After debating on going Ibis Ripley V4 or SB100, I pulled the trigger on the SB100. Looking forward to seeing how she rides.
    I am waiting for my SB100, after choosing it over the Blur TR and the Sniper Trail. Didn't look at the Ripley. But very excited about the Yeti...
    Ride more; post less...

  21. #1821
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    84
    Really keen to pull the trigger on an SB100 but at 100kgís bit hesitant until this SI mount hardware gets sorted
    ďJust thinking out loudĒ Sounds like the V1 solid pins are still the stiffest and best option ďexcept for the creaksĒ
    Has anyone considered replacing the outer metal sleeve between the stanchions with a composite material of graphite impregnated nylon which would be self-lubricating

  22. #1822
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jimarin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    673
    Park also sells a stubby set of Allenís. Nice to have to check the SI bolts. Mine loosened up once but Iíve got a good few hundred miles since then and they have stayed tight.

  23. #1823
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    I am waiting for my SB100, after choosing it over the Blur TR and the Sniper Trail. Didn't look at the Ripley. But very excited about the Yeti...
    Nice. I looked at the Sniper Pro as well. I went with the SB100 based off my builders recommendation. The Ripley V4 is a mini Ripmo which I didn't want. I wanted a mellower ride from my Ripmo. Looking forward to seeing your build out!
    Ibis Ripmo
    Ibis Ripley LS V3
    Yeti SB100

  24. #1824
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    510
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I picked these up from Amazon specifically for the SI. Pretty sure I'll find use for these in the future as well.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  25. #1825
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    I am going to treat my sb100 to a new set of wheels .
    The bike is used for trail use mainly .
    Want something 30mm inner width with fast engaging hub and strong but still light .
    I am thinking of a pair of industry 9 enduro 310c with hydra hubs .
    Are there any other rim / hubs I should be looking at

  26. #1826
    Cleavage Of The Tetons
    Reputation: rideit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,506
    Light Bicycle 29 ID carbon with DT 240ís, ~ $1k
    "We LOVE cows! They make trails for us.....

    And then we eat them."

    Thrill Bikers Unite!

  27. #1827
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Chicane32's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    664
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Light Bicycle 29 ID carbon with DT 240ís, ~ $1k
    Iím not sure what LB wheels you speak of, but I just priced an id27, 927 Recon Pro set at over $1400 with 250 hubs.

  28. #1828
    rks
    rks is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    21
    Go with the 350s. Itís pretty much the same thing just a little heavier. Itís at center of mass so you would (NOT) feel much of a difference. Iíve got NOX farlows. Lifetime warranty. Good tech. Good price.
    Last edited by rks; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:18 AM.

  29. #1829
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    11
    Edited my post above.

    My LBS called and said these new magical bolts that Yeti claimed would fix my problem are the exact same bolts my LBS put in my bike the last time the bolts came loose.

  30. #1830
    rks
    rks is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by RobertLoblaw View Post
    Edited my post above.

    My LBS called and said these new magical bolts that Yeti claimed would fix my problem are the exact same bolts my LBS put in my bike the last time the bolts came loose.
    Did your LBS use loctite blue on the hardware with the poly patch?

  31. #1831
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    Did your LBS use loctite blue on the hardware with the poly patch?
    No. Initially I thought they had because I saw blue on the threads and assumed it was blue loctite. But now I understand that the poly patch is blue so that's what I was seeing.

  32. #1832
    rks
    rks is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by RobertLoblaw View Post
    No. Initially I thought they had because I saw blue on the threads and assumed it was blue loctite. But now I understand that the poly patch is blue so that's what I was seeing.
    The reason I ask is because they should not us loctite with the new hardware.

    The chemical reaction between the loctite and poly patch turns the poly patch to greasy mush. This is from Yeti HQ.
    The LBS could think that theyíre doing a good thing but it cancels the poly patch out.

    Iíve had about 100 hard miles on the poly patch hardware torqued to 13nm with no loosening so far.

    Also, itís worth noting. You could check the SI preload adjustment. Thereís a post on this thread about it a couple pages back?

  33. #1833
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by rks View Post
    The reason I ask is because they should not us loctite with the new hardware.

    The chemical reaction between the loctite and poly patch turns the poly patch to greasy mush. This is from Yeti HQ.
    The LBS could think that theyíre doing a good thing but it cancels the poly patch out.

    Iíve had about 100 hard miles on the poly patch hardware torqued to 13nm with no loosening so far.

    Also, itís worth noting. You could check the SI preload adjustment. Thereís a post on this thread about it a couple pages back?
    Yep I saw that note about the loctite and the preload a few pages back. They haven't used loctite but I don't know if they've adjusted the preload. I know they've been in close contact with Yeti about it so I can only assume they've done it by the book.

  34. #1834
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    Been doing a bit more searching for wheelsets and i can get a pair of dt swiss xmc1200 spline 30 for £1000 less than a set of custom industry 9 enduros . Cant see if they are worth paying the extra for !!

  35. #1835
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Just thought I'd weigh in to say that despite all of the negative posting in the Yeti forum about warranty issues, SI creaking and rear-end flex, I am pretty damn excited to get the SB100 Turq XO1 that I've got on order, after carefully considering various other bikes also, in particular, the SC Blur TR. While I am certainly cognizant of reported issues, etc, and will be on the lookout for them, I'm not swayed or daunted in the least bit about investing in a Yeti.

    Flame away....I'm happy.
    Ride more; post less...

  36. #1836
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    10,362
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    Been doing a bit more searching for wheelsets and i can get a pair of dt swiss xmc1200 spline 30 for £1000 less than a set of custom industry 9 enduros . Cant see if they are worth paying the extra for !!
    Much better wheelset than anything I9 makes. If itís really £1000 LESS, and you donít want them, Iíll buy them from you.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Death from Below.

  37. #1837
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mfa81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,586
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    Been doing a bit more searching for wheelsets and i can get a pair of dt swiss xmc1200 spline 30 for £1000 less than a set of custom industry 9 enduros . Cant see if they are worth paying the extra for !!
    did you find a good dealor thatís just the usual price?

    any good deals on alloy xm/ex 1501 wheelsets at the same place? looking for a wheelset for a build Iím working one right now

  38. #1838
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Much better wheelset than anything I9 makes. If itís really £1000 LESS, and you donít want them, Iíll buy them from you.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    The i9 dealer has reduced the price now to try and compete but they i9 are still £600 more expensive than the DT Swiss xmc .
    Also just read that if you ding a rim the i9 have to go back to the factory for replacement

  39. #1839
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    10,362
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    The i9 dealer has reduced the price now to try and compete but they i9 are still £600 more expensive than the DT Swiss xmc .
    Also just read that if you ding a rim the i9 have to go back to the factory for replacement
    Got a link to the shop selling the XMCs...?
    Death from Below.

  40. #1840
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    contact your lbs you will be suprised what they can come up with , got quotes of a few local shops and they are all within £50 of each other on price coming in around £1550

  41. #1841
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    did you find a good dealor thatís just the usual price?

    any good deals on alloy xm/ex 1501 wheelsets at the same place? looking for a wheelset for a build Iím working one right now
    I got my xm 1501's from bike24 in germany. They were like $750 shipped. Everything DT is cheap on the german sites. Xmc's were around $1500 I believe.

  42. #1842
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mfa81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,586
    Quote Originally Posted by La Nada View Post
    I got my xm 1501's from bike24 in germany. They were like $750 shipped. Everything DT is cheap on the german sites. Xmc's were around $1500 I believe.
    their price is great indeed... a little scary with their delivery time

    3-4 weeks for the xm and 9-10 weeks for the ex which is a little cheaper

    did you get these shipped to the US? How was the delivery time at the time?

  43. #1843
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    did you find a good dealor thatís just the usual price?

    any good deals on alloy xm/ex 1501 wheelsets at the same place? looking for a wheelset for a build Iím working one right now
    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    their price is great indeed... a little scary with their delivery time

    3-4 weeks for the xm and 9-10 weeks for the ex which is a little cheaper

    did you get these shipped to the US? How was the delivery time at the time?
    Well they were in stock when I ordered them. Took 10 days to get to Nevada. Nice packaging, documentation, etc. Very large reputable company.

  44. #1844
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    170
    Finally got mine done.

    large frame
    stepcast 34
    raceface next sl cranks/bars/stem
    guide ultimate
    12 speed xtr
    sub 1500 gram carbonfan 30mm rims/dt swiss hubs
    maxxis forekaster 2.35 front ardent race 2.35 rear
    150mm lev ci post
    fabric carbon saddle
    with pedals 25lbs 0 oz on the nose.

    first ride will be this weekend. will report back with a ride report comparing my last 5 bikes to it (santa cruz blur, hightower, hightower lt , tallboy 3 and yeti asrc) that is assuming it doesn't break in two over the first rock or root



    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-img_8466.jpgYeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-img_8465.jpgYeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-img_8472.jpgYeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-img_8467.jpgYeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build-img_8469.jpg
    2019 yeti sb100

  45. #1845
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    363
    Congrats on your build. Looking forward to the ride report.

  46. #1846
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    Congrats on your build. Looking forward to the ride report.
    ^^Ditto! Looks great!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  47. #1847
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by tony110672 View Post
    Finally got mine done.

    large frame
    stepcast 34
    raceface next sl cranks/bars/stem
    guide ultimate
    12 speed xtr
    sub 1500 gram carbonfan 30mm rims/dt swiss hubs
    maxxis forekaster 2.35 front ardent race 2.35 rear
    150mm lev ci post
    fabric carbon saddle
    with pedals 25lbs 0 oz on the nose.

    first ride will be this weekend. will report back with a ride report comparing my last 5 bikes to it (santa cruz blur, hightower, hightower lt , tallboy 3 and yeti asrc) that is assuming it doesn't break in two over the first rock or root
    Looking forward to your review compared to your previous bikes

  48. #1848
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Imo, a few had these issues but many blew the situation out of proportion. Go for it.
    This is exactly what I did. I test rode the SB100 and absolutely fell in love. I was worried about the SI issues, but decided to just ďgo for itĒ. Should be in this week.

  49. #1849
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    71

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    Anyone elseís bike chewing up DU bushings?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  50. #1850
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    31,389
    Quote Originally Posted by paulc86 View Post
    Anyone elseís bike chewing up DU bushings?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Unless you are running a manitou or stock RS, you probably have IGUS bushings.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  51. #1851
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    496
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    Just completed another uplift day at Bike Park Wales .
    I could definately notice the tire sqirm on the hard G outs and it the long downhill berms
    I have got 26mm int rims with 2.3 dhf , 2.3 agg combo .
    Adding more pressure just made me ping off stuff and loose traction .
    Does going to a 30mm inner rim help a lot with sidewall support running the lower pressures ?
    Wow. How did you get on. Would love to take mine there. What trails did you run. How did the SB100 get on?

  52. #1852
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    496
    what is peoples favourite tyre combo on the sb100

  53. #1853
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    170
    so got my 1st ride in yesterday., about 24 miles eastern PA rocky rooty punchy ups and downs. Keep in mind this is only my opinion. 1st thing is wow switch infinity is the real deal. I now feel that the extra price you pay is not for the name or frame but for that rear suspension. I have had many many single pivots, VPP and a DW and delta link and this is by far far better then a single pivot and VPP and a couple notches above the DW and delta's I have owned. the way it accelerates is like nothing I have owned. my blur was 22.5 lbs with lighter wheels and the yeti blows it away with how the instant acceleration makes the bike feel so much lighter. Its hard to describe. where the VPP bikes you can feel the suspension working the switch you never really feel anything its just going about its business of soaking up stuff and keeping the tire on the ground. I set up the fork and shock exactly as recommended on the Yeti site and felt no need to change anything. It felt exactly half way between the hightower LT(now my second favorite bike all time) and the blur. Its more nimble and better climbing then my 140/150 travel bikes and more aggressive better carving better going downhill then the more cross country bikes. it takes the best attributes of both and adds a much better rear suspension. Just a very direct great handling stiff bike that accelerates and climbs like nothing I have ever ridden. Its geometry felt perfect to me. It really shouldn't be compared to a blur. the tallboy 3 is more like the sb100. The blur really is more like an epic or scott spark. maybe the next tallboy will be a better comparison. It most felt like my V1 evil following. But where the following felt like a bulkier heavier bike the yeti feels more nimble and more direct. I do feel like because of its nimble handling Yeti specs too much tire on them. This bike deserves lightweight hoops and fast rolling lighter tires to take advantage of the acceleration. The geometry is so near perfect and the front and rear suspension work so good together you can really maneuver with much less aggressive tires. Its only one ride but where I have had regrets on other bike purchases after one ride this one felt really good. I am sad that It made me realize that VPP isn't that great of a suspension design.
    2019 yeti sb100

  54. #1854
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by tony110672 View Post
    so got my 1st ride in yesterday., about 24 miles eastern PA rocky rooty punchy ups and downs. Keep in mind this is only my opinion. 1st thing is wow switch infinity is the real deal. I now feel that the extra price you pay is not for the name or frame but for that rear suspension. I have had many many single pivots, VPP and a DW and delta link and this is by far far better then a single pivot and VPP and a couple notches above the DW and delta's I have owned. the way it accelerates is like nothing I have owned. my blur was 22.5 lbs with lighter wheels and the yeti blows it away with how the instant acceleration makes the bike feel so much lighter. Its hard to describe. where the VPP bikes you can feel the suspension working the switch you never really feel anything its just going about its business of soaking up stuff and keeping the tire on the ground. I set up the fork and shock exactly as recommended on the Yeti site and felt no need to change anything. It felt exactly half way between the hightower LT(now my second favorite bike all time) and the blur. Its more nimble and better climbing then my 140/150 travel bikes and more aggressive better carving better going downhill then the more cross country bikes. it takes the best attributes of both and adds a much better rear suspension. Just a very direct great handling stiff bike that accelerates and climbs like nothing I have ever ridden. Its geometry felt perfect to me. It really shouldn't be compared to a blur. the tallboy 3 is more like the sb100. The blur really is more like an epic or scott spark. maybe the next tallboy will be a better comparison. It most felt like my V1 evil following. But where the following felt like a bulkier heavier bike the yeti feels more nimble and more direct. I do feel like because of its nimble handling Yeti specs too much tire on them. This bike deserves lightweight hoops and fast rolling lighter tires to take advantage of the acceleration. The geometry is so near perfect and the front and rear suspension work so good together you can really maneuver with much less aggressive tires. Its only one ride but where I have had regrets on other bike purchases after one ride this one felt really good. I am sad that It made me realize that VPP isn't that great of a suspension design.
    Wow; what a great write-up...thanks for that! What size and build kit is it, and what is your height and weight? I have a Large black Turq XO1 ordered, and can't wait!

    With regard to the wheels and tires, I agree. I'll be swapping out the stock wheels for some very light, 30mm carbon hoops, and will be swapping out the stock tires for 2.4WT Rekons, to start, and for endurance races, depending on the terrain, will go to 2.35 Ikons, which are my go-to for endurance riding.
    Ride more; post less...

  55. #1855
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    170
    I built it up as a frame only build some new parts some carry over from my hightower lt. parts are listed with the pics above. I am 6 ft 185 pounds with gear. bought a large and with 150 dropper 50mm stem and 760 width low rise bars it felt ideal. I have used dhf front aggressor rear on the hightower and had a magic mary/nobby nic on the tallboy 3 and they were great but probably overkill for the trails I ride. the maxxis forkaster/ardent race felt great. My 1st time with both. I had a nobby nic/racing ralph on both the blur and asrc and the maxxis/sb100 combo felt way better at least for first ride. really my only negative I have is the cable routing. I hate under bottom bracket routing as we have alot of stump/rock obstacles and on my asrc with the same routing I would crush cables occasionally. But if that is the only thing I have to worry about on this rocket I can live with that. As far as wheels I will never do anything but chinese carbon ever again. I was an enve fanboy for years. many enve xc, m50, m60 and as late as a set of m70hv on the hightower and m525 on the blur and they are far from bad wheels but I am on my second set of carbonfan wheels($910 delivered) and have nothing but praise for them. can't believe I wasted $2000-$2800 on so many enve wheels over the years and the cheap carbon hoops are strong, light compliant and stiff in the right places.
    2019 yeti sb100

  56. #1856
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by tony110672 View Post
    As far as wheels I will never do anything but chinese carbon ever again. I was an enve fanboy for years. many enve xc, m50, m60 and as late as a set of m70hv on the hightower and m525 on the blur and they are far from bad wheels but I am on my second set of carbonfan wheels($910 delivered) and have nothing but praise for them. can't believe I wasted $2000-$2800 on so many enve wheels over the years and the cheap carbon hoops are strong, light compliant and stiff in the right places.
    Agreed; I am using cheap Chinese carbon hoops..."CHENVE's"...



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  57. #1857
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mfa81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,586
    enves with dt and torch hubs are selling these days for less than the price of 2 enve rims, probably still more expensive than chinese rims but I don't understand why people would pay 3 grand for a set of enve wheels!

  58. #1858
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    enves with dt and torch hubs are selling these days for less than the price of 2 enve rims, probably still more expensive than chinese rims but I don't understand why people would pay 3 grand for a set of enve wheels!
    I agree. I only paid retail on a couple of the enves and got good deals on most of them but they were still more then what I should have spent for a set of wheels. I have disposable income but it still has to make sense to me to pay more for something. Is the sb100 worth more then others. In my opinion yes. Are carbon bars and cranks better then cheaper alloy alternatives. in my opinion yes. is shimano's new 12 speed the best drivetrain I have used. in my opinion yes. are enve's worth more then chinese carbon. in my opinion no. and for that matter I have used we are one and NOX as well and they were no different feeling then the carbonfan or light bicycle rims I have had. I like high end bike stuff but cheaper carbon wheels are really getting good.
    2019 yeti sb100

  59. #1859
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mfa81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,586
    Quote Originally Posted by tony110672 View Post
    I agree. I only paid retail on a couple of the enves and got good deals on most of them but they were still more then what I should have spent for a set of wheels. I have disposable income but it still has to make sense to me to pay more for something. Is the sb100 worth more then others. In my opinion yes. Are carbon bars and cranks better then cheaper alloy alternatives. in my opinion yes. is shimano's new 12 speed the best drivetrain I have used. in my opinion yes. are enve's worth more then chinese carbon. in my opinion no. and for that matter I have used we are one and NOX as well and they were no different feeling then the carbonfan or light bicycle rims I have had. I like high end bike stuff but cheaper carbon wheels are really getting good.
    I saw some reviews saying xtr 12 speed rivals sram axs and it's much better than mechanical eagle! seems like shimano got it right!

  60. #1860
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    170
    Quote Originally Posted by mfa81 View Post
    I saw some reviews saying xtr 12 speed rivals sram axs and it's much better than mechanical eagle! seems like shimano got it right!
    I have not had a chance to try axs yet but would like to. but have had eagle xx1 and x01 as well as xx1 11 speed and shimano xtr 11 speed and the new 12 speed shimano is #1 for me in setup ease(way easier then eagle to get to shift right), consistency(shifts right for longer before needing fiddling) and the way it shifts under load is amazing.
    2019 yeti sb100

  61. #1861
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by olibluegoat View Post
    Wow. How did you get on. Would love to take mine there. What trails did you run. How did the SB100 get on?
    bike handles it pretty well , did some blue red plus and some blacks on it .
    Its quite harsh in the braking bumps and the rocky berms bust bloody fast through most of it and good on the jumps and drops .
    Don't be afraid it wont handle it its fine

  62. #1862
    mtbr member
    Reputation: etuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,013

    100 - Quick Review and Issue/Question

    Hey All -

    I think I have read through every post in this thread. Phew!

    So I built a new SB100 about a month ago. Standard X01 Trail build but I swapped on a pair of SC Reserve Carbon Wheels, my Quarq and a 32 tooth ring on the front. I also swapped on a pair of Aspen 2.25's as I was going to be racing right away.

    My XC bike was a 2018 Blur that I built last year and I just got sick of the bike. It was a great bike, I really enjoyed it, but I decided it was time for something new. I can go deep on this bike if interesting to anyone as I had a SC 120 and a SC 100 and I toggled between the two of them based on applications. At the end of the day, I just don't think I'm a VPP person.

    I built an SB130 over the winter for a fun downhill oriented bike (I know its not huge, but its by far the longest travel bike I've ever had.) I loved that bike so much I decided to build the 100.

    I have now done 1 full on XC race at about 2:00 hours. One marathon race (2 man 8 hour) and one big solo day with about 8k feet of climbing. I've also done a lot of short fast rips. All in I probably have 30+ hours on the bike and lots of intervals with some really technical stuff.

    I love the bike. It's definitely not a XC racer but it pedals well and fast. The front end is wildly stiff and the back feels stiff enough to me - although not as stiff as the front. It's just really fun to ride. I LOVE short travel bikes that can get rowdy and this has become my everyday bike for sure.

    I don't think it climbs as fast on fireroads as the blur and its a good pound or so heavier but given the two I'm in camp SB100. That said, I have a 100k this summer that is almost all fire roads. If I haven't sold the blur yet, I might ride the Blur for that.

    I've been nerding out on this hard so happy to go deeper if helpful to anyone.

    Question:

    I have a very slight amount of play between the front and rear triangle. Basically if I lift the rear triangle slightly I get a small movement. It feels like a dropper post feels when its worn out. Just a small jiggle and clicking sound. The bolts all appear flush and are not loose to the touch.

    Doesn't seem to be effecting anything in handling and I dont have a big rear wheel flex like some others talk about. But its annoying to me. I'm assuming the bike is on the newest stuff cause I built it in May.

    Is this "clicking/play" what other people are talking about with the linkage issues?

    I've been meaning to bring it by the shop but haven't gotten around to it.
    Previously known as mttamrnr.

  63. #1863
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    887
    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post

    Question:

    I have a very slight amount of play between the front and rear triangle. Basically if I lift the rear triangle slightly I get a small movement. It feels like a dropper post feels when its worn out. Just a small jiggle and clicking sound. The bolts all appear flush and are not loose to the touch.

    Doesn't seem to be effecting anything in handling and I dont have a big rear wheel flex like some others talk about. But its annoying to me. I'm assuming the bike is on the newest stuff cause I built it in May.

    Is this "clicking/play" what other people are talking about with the linkage issues?

    I've been meaning to bring it by the shop but haven't gotten around to it.
    That *sounds* like a bushing/mount tolerance issue that a bunch of people had with various models. Is it fore/aft play or lateral?

  64. #1864
    mtbr member
    Reputation: etuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,013
    Thanks for quick reply. It feels up and down to me, so fore/aft I guess? Not lateral.
    Previously known as mttamrnr.

  65. #1865
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    887
    I'd hit up your LBS and see if you can request a new set of shock bushings from Fox or Yeti. It's been a common enough problem but should be a quick and easy fix.

    A friend of mine had the same issue with his Cannondale.

  66. #1866
    mtbr member
    Reputation: etuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,013
    Thank you!
    Previously known as mttamrnr.

  67. #1867
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    Hey All -

    I think I have read through every post in this thread. Phew!

    So I built a new SB100 about a month ago. Standard X01 Trail build but I swapped on a pair of SC Reserve Carbon Wheels, my Quarq and a 32 tooth ring on the front. I also swapped on a pair of Aspen 2.25's as I was going to be racing right away.

    My XC bike was a 2018 Blur that I built last year and I just got sick of the bike. It was a great bike, I really enjoyed it, but I decided it was time for something new. I can go deep on this bike if interesting to anyone as I had a SC 120 and a SC 100 and I toggled between the two of them based on applications. At the end of the day, I just don't think I'm a VPP person.

    I built an SB130 over the winter for a fun downhill oriented bike (I know its not huge, but its by far the longest travel bike I've ever had.) I loved that bike so much I decided to build the 100.

    I have now done 1 full on XC race at about 2:00 hours. One marathon race (2 man 8 hour) and one big solo day with about 8k feet of climbing. I've also done a lot of short fast rips. All in I probably have 30+ hours on the bike and lots of intervals with some really technical stuff.

    I love the bike. It's definitely not a XC racer but it pedals well and fast. The front end is wildly stiff and the back feels stiff enough to me - although not as stiff as the front. It's just really fun to ride. I LOVE short travel bikes that can get rowdy and this has become my everyday bike for sure.

    I don't think it climbs as fast on fireroads as the blur and its a good pound or so heavier but given the two I'm in camp SB100. That said, I have a 100k this summer that is almost all fire roads. If I haven't sold the blur yet, I might ride the Blur for that.

    I've been nerding out on this hard so happy to go deeper if helpful to anyone.

    Question:

    I have a very slight amount of play between the front and rear triangle. Basically if I lift the rear triangle slightly I get a small movement. It feels like a dropper post feels when its worn out. Just a small jiggle and clicking sound. The bolts all appear flush and are not loose to the touch.

    Doesn't seem to be effecting anything in handling and I dont have a big rear wheel flex like some others talk about. But its annoying to me. I'm assuming the bike is on the newest stuff cause I built it in May.

    Is this "clicking/play" what other people are talking about with the linkage issues?

    I've been meaning to bring it by the shop but haven't gotten around to it.
    This is a fantastic and timely post for me, as I've got a Large SB100 Turq XO1 on order, and had narrowed it down to a Blur TR or the Yeti. Decided on the Yeti for a few reasons, including the remote lockouts on the Blur suspension, and I wanted a slightly burlier bike for more versatility. My application is endurance XC stuff, including 12/24-hour solo races, marathon distance (>30 miles) and stage racing. I don't need a pure XC racer, because that's not me. I want something that pedals and climbs very well and efficiently, but can handle chunk and some gnar, and is comfortable for all day (and night) riding. That said, I just got a Blur 100mm for my wife, and hopped on it, and was pretty impressed. Nice bike. Interested in any more detailed comparison info you might care to share...thanks!
    Ride more; post less...

  68. #1868
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    1,850
    Small black frame with Avalanche modded DPS, invisiframe, Cane Creek Slamset headset and Bbinfinite bottom bracket going up for sale tonight. Excellent condition.

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...7&share_type=t

    https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2584956/

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by bogeydog; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:20 PM.

  69. #1869
    mtbr member
    Reputation: etuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,013
    When I was shopping for the Blur I really wanted a full XC race bike that would be slack enough to ride single track on but was really fast. I was between the Yeti, Blur, Epic and the Sniper.

    When I test rode the Yeti it had the DHF/Aggressor combo on it and low end wheels. It was really really fun but it just didn't feel fast to me. I came to the conclusion at the time that it was a killer bike but that it wasn't a race bike if you were trying to compete. (I'm not winning anything but am still trying to compete).

    I couldn't get there with the brain on the Epic and the Intense felt too slack to feel fast. I think that head tube angle with a 100mm fork is kind of a weird combo. Cool bike though - so light.

    Then the Blur came out and it felt perfect. It felt aggressive for hard pedaling and fast but pretty confident. I put a 50mm stem and a dropper on it and thought it was perfect. I really do still like it a lot. It's a really fun bike.

    A couple things irked me though. The lock out kept having problems. Nothing major but the cable would slip and it would be stuck locked or open. Just lots of stuff. I could always fix it easily so it wasn't a huge deal but annoying.

    Then the dropper on the front and the lock out made the front of the bike really messy looking with cables running everywhere. Little stuff but bugged me. The dropper and the lock out cables never fit together into the internal cable routing port, so the little piece of rubber there was always hanging off. Super minor but annoying.

    Then I started having weird rear shock problems - that really weren't SC's fault. I just got a bad rear shock and it had a slow bleed that no one could fix. The combo of all these things just made it feel like something was always not quite right on the bike. Still - I was having a ton of fun on it and it was definitely a capable little ripper with the 100mm fork.

    Then for the summer last year, and for the Downieville race, I put a 120 step cast on it and big rubber and I rode it in the mountains a lot. The bike handled everything really well for a little 100mm bike - lots of drops and stuff - but once I had the big rubber, dropper and the 120 fork on it it didn't have the really fast pedaling feeling I wanted (duh, I guess) and I never loved the feel of that bike with the bigger fork. It didn't feel designed for that...to me. So I swapped it back to full XC mode and that's were it stayed.

    By that point it had a lot of hard miles and race miles on it and the bike was just feeling a bit beat up.

    I still wanted a capable short travel bike for all day adventures but something that was a little more capable than the Blur - I cared less about XC racing this year and I was so in love with my SB130 I thought I'd sell the Blur when it was still in pretty good shape and build a SB100.

    To me the SB 100 feels like a mini downhill bike. Its just so fast and nimble going down hill. I flipping love it. When the seat is slammed and the suspension open I feel like I can legitimately send stuff. On the cross country race front it doesn't climb quite like the Blur but I think its seconds not minutes and its better on technical climbs for sure.

    I do miss the Blur on long fire road climbs - which I do a lot of - as I would lock it out and stand for long periods of time. I don't like standing and climbing on the Yeti at all. Maybe I don't have the shocks dialed quite right but it moves a lot to me.

    All of these bikes have trade offs but I'm really happy with the Yeti for now. If I also had a 20lb hard tail I would be dialed!

    My poor SB130 hasn't been ridden a single time since I got the 100. But I still flipping love that bike. BTW the tech climbing on the 130 is nuts. That bike just rock crawls over stuff. All my riding involves about 45 minutes of fire roads first and Im just too impatient to go slowly up hill!
    Previously known as mttamrnr.

  70. #1870
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    When I was shopping for the Blur I really wanted a full XC race bike that would be slack enough to ride single track on but was really fast. I was between the Yeti, Blur, Epic and the Sniper.

    When I test rode the Yeti it had the DHF/Aggressor combo on it and low end wheels. It was really really fun but it just didn't feel fast to me. I came to the conclusion at the time that it was a killer bike but that it wasn't a race bike if you were trying to compete. (I'm not winning anything but am still trying to compete).

    I couldn't get there with the brain on the Epic and the Intense felt too slack to feel fast. I think that head tube angle with a 100mm fork is kind of a weird combo. Cool bike though - so light.
    I agree re the Yetiís stock wheels and tires. Iím building up some very light CHENVE 30mm ID wheels, with Hydra hubs, and running Rekon 2.4 WTís. Thatís a much lighter and faster setup than stock.

    Re the Sniper, I really thought I wanted one, but the rear end flex and bushing issue is just too off-putting for me. I didnít look at the Epic because Specialized is just meh to me, plus I donít like the Brain.

    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    Then the Blur came out and it felt perfect. It felt aggressive for hard pedaling and fast but pretty confident. I put a 50mm stem and a dropper on it and thought it was perfect. I really do still like it a lot. It's a really fun bike.

    A couple things irked me though. The lock out kept having problems. Nothing major but the cable would slip and it would be stuck locked or open. Just lots of stuff. I could always fix it easily so it wasn't a huge deal but annoying.

    Then the dropper on the front and the lock out made the front of the bike really messy looking with cables running everywhere. Little stuff but bugged me. The dropper and the lock out cables never fit together into the internal cable routing port, so the little piece of rubber there was always hanging off. Super minor but annoying.
    I was looking at the Blur TR, and hated the dual lockout, along with the dropper remote. Just hate that setup, and agree that itís messy looking.

    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    Then for the summer last year, and for the Downieville race, I put a 120 step cast on it and big rubber and I rode it in the mountains a lot. The bike handled everything really well for a little 100mm bike - lots of drops and stuff - but once I had the big rubber, dropper and the 120 fork on it it didn't have the really fast pedaling feeling I wanted (duh, I guess) and I never loved the feel of that bike with the bigger fork. It didn't feel designed for that...to me. So I swapped it back to full XC mode and that's were it stayed.
    This was definitely a concern, because I was looking at doing the same, with beefier wheels/tires, a dropper and a 120 SC. Good to know that it really changed the bike for you. My comparison would need to be the Blur TR vs. The SB100.

    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    I still wanted a capable short travel bike for all day adventures but something that was a little more capable than the Blur - I cared less about XC racing this year and I was so in love with my SB130 I thought I'd sell the Blur when it was still in pretty good shape and build a SB100.

    To me the SB 100 feels like a mini downhill bike. Its just so fast and nimble going down hill. I flipping love it. When the seat is slammed and the suspension open I feel like I can legitimately send stuff. On the cross country race front it doesn't climb quite like the Blur but I think its seconds not minutes and its better on technical climbs for sure.
    All-day (and night...and the next day...LOL) adventures are my thing, and I want something that is comfortable for those, and can also handle chunk and gnar. And re the climbing vs. The Blur, remember, Iíd be comparing to the Blur TR, and just the fact that you say ďseconds not minutesĒ (and thatís compared to the Blur 100mm), not to mention the technical climbing, is enough for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    I do miss the Blur on long fire road climbs - which I do a lot of - as I would lock it out and stand for long periods of time. I don't like standing and climbing on the Yeti at all. Maybe I don't have the shocks dialed quite right but it moves a lot to me.

    All of these bikes have trade offs but I'm really happy with the Yeti for now. If I also had a 20lb hard tail I would be dialed!

    My poor SB130 hasn't been ridden a single time since I got the 100. But I still flipping love that bike. BTW the tech climbing on the 130 is nuts. That bike just rock crawls over stuff. All my riding involves about 45 minutes of fire roads first and Im just too impatient to go slowly up hill!
    The fire road climbing is a definite consideration for me, because some of the rides Iíll do, along with some stage races, have big fire/dirt road climbs, and I like to stand and mash (longtime SSíer). Iím hoping it was your suspension setup, rather than the bike, as Iíve heard that the Yeti climbs very well.

    Re the hardtail, I have a Pivot LES geared HT and a LES SS, so Iíve got that covered...

    What do your 100 and 130 each weigh, BTW?

    Thanks for all the great info!!



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  71. #1871
    Supersonic Garfield
    Reputation: Trond's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    553
    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Small black frame with Avalanche modded DPS, invisiframe, Cane Creek Slamset headset and Bbinfinite bottom bracket going up for sale tonight. Excellent condition.
    Wow. Could you share a few words on the Ava mod and how it feels compared to stock? I have emailed with Craig, but not ordered yet.

  72. #1872
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    1,850
    Quote Originally Posted by Trond View Post
    Wow. Could you share a few words on the Ava mod and how it feels compared to stock? I have emailed with Craig, but not ordered yet.
    Smoother. Firmer but smoother feel in the short travel. I think it took the edge of the fast high-speed compression which stock shocks suffer from. It's difficult to describe, but the best thing I can speak of is it took the rough edges out of the stock tune.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  73. #1873
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    510
    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    Question:

    I have a very slight amount of play between the front and rear triangle. Basically if I lift the rear triangle slightly I get a small movement. It feels like a dropper post feels when its worn out. Just a small jiggle and clicking sound. The bolts all appear flush and are not loose to the touch.

    Doesn't seem to be effecting anything in handling and I dont have a big rear wheel flex like some others talk about. But its annoying to me. I'm assuming the bike is on the newest stuff cause I built it in May.

    Is this "clicking/play" what other people are talking about with the linkage issues?

    I've been meaning to bring it by the shop but haven't gotten around to it.
    I had this same issue and it turned out to be the lower shock bolt not being torqued to spec. I removed the bolt, , applied grease to the smooth part of the bolt body, applied Loctite, and torqued to spec. No problems since. This frame seems to be not torqued properly from the factory. Checking torque is something you should do once in a while. Invest in a good torque wrench.
    I no longer like to party. But I like the idea of it.

  74. #1874
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    64
    Iím enjoying this Blur vs sb100 discussion as I recently put my 100 up for sale to get a new marathon race bike. I havenít really had any issues with mine since swapping out the V1 SI hardware, but Iíve never felt just right on it. I havenít been able to get used to the steeper seat tube and feel like Iím right over the BB. Maybe I havenít given the new position enough of a chance but right now my short list includes the Blur with a 120, new Top Fuel, and new Mach 4sl

  75. #1875
    Supersonic Garfield
    Reputation: Trond's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    553
    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Smoother. Firmer but smoother feel in the short travel. I think it took the edge of the fast high-speed compression which stock shocks suffer from. It's difficult to describe, but the best thing I can speak of is it took the rough edges out of the stock tune.
    Thanks. I can relate to that description as I have tuned at least four other bikes with Ava over the years. Most recently a Turner Czar.

  76. #1876
    mtbr member
    Reputation: etuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,013
    Ha. I have an old Les that I've had built in every configuration possible - years of SS then it turned into a fully rigid cyclocross/gravel racer. I've even had 2.4's and a dropper on it. That was a great bike!

    I haven't actually put the 100 on the scale and 130 was a long time ago, right when I bought it but I'm going to say 25lbs and 29lbs respectively.
    Previously known as mttamrnr.

  77. #1877
    mtbr member
    Reputation: etuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,013
    Thank you, that sounds like a reasonable fix.
    Previously known as mttamrnr.

  78. #1878
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by dgregorie View Post
    Iím enjoying this Blur vs sb100 discussion as I recently put my 100 up for sale to get a new marathon race bike. I havenít really had any issues with mine since swapping out the V1 SI hardware, but Iíve never felt just right on it. I havenít been able to get used to the steeper seat tube and feel like Iím right over the BB. Maybe I havenít given the new position enough of a chance but right now my short list includes the Blur with a 120, new Top Fuel, and new Mach 4sl
    Interesting. I was also considering the Blur TR with a 120, and love the look of the new Mach 4 SL.
    Ride more; post less...

  79. #1879
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    Ha. I have an old Les that I've had built in every configuration possible - years of SS then it turned into a fully rigid cyclocross/gravel racer. I've even had 2.4's and a dropper on it. That was a great bike!

    I haven't actually put the 100 on the scale and 130 was a long time ago, right when I bought it but I'm going to say 25lbs and 29lbs respectively.
    Thanks...I just sold my Intense Primer Elite, which was/is a great bike, and same weight as your 130 (28.9 lbs). Too heavy for my main applications, and I don't do enough chunkier riding to justify it, hence my search for a lighter, short-travel bike, and my decision on the SB100. I'm planning on my 100 being right at 25 lbs, +/-.
    Ride more; post less...

  80. #1880
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    64
    Quote Originally Posted by etuck View Post
    Ha. I have an old Les that I've had built in every configuration possible - years of SS then it turned into a fully rigid cyclocross/gravel racer. I've even had 2.4's and a dropper on it. That was a great bike! .
    Big LES fan here as well. Definitely one of my all-time favorites. I switch mine between SS and geared and also have a 120 fork to swap on and off. Iíd love to have a second one! My main problem with the 100 is that I havenít been able to make it fit like my LES - thatís one of my main attractions to the Mach4sl

  81. #1881
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by dgregorie View Post
    Big LES fan here as well. Definitely one of my all-time favorites. I switch mine between SS and geared and also have a 120 fork to swap on and off. Iíd love to have a second one! My main problem with the 100 is that I havenít been able to make it fit like my LES - thatís one of my main attractions to the Mach4sl
    I'm willing to have a slightly different fit in the 100 vs my LES', but yeah, that Mach 4 SL is compelling.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  82. #1882
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dagonger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    2,907

  83. #1883
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  84. #1884
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mfa81's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    1,586
    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    that was pretty entertaining! Nateís performance was much better than the build itself which isnít an easy task when we talk about his bike builds!

  85. #1885
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    29
    Anybody have much experience with running different size chainrings on the SB100 vs the stock 30t? Thought on say a 32t or even 34t in the wild?

    BTW, I also have had my SI bolts come loose and I believe they were version 2. I took apart, greased and re-torqued to spec and so far so good, but has only been about 20 hours of riding since.

  86. #1886
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by colonelkurtz13 View Post
    Anybody have much experience with running different size chainrings on the SB100 vs the stock 30t? Thought on say a 32t or even 34t in the wild?

    BTW, I also have had my SI bolts come loose and I believe they were version 2. I took apart, greased and re-torqued to spec and so far so good, but has only been about 20 hours of riding since.
    I'm planning on running a 32, or maybe a 34. Definitely not a 30, as I run a 34 on my bikes.
    Ride more; post less...

  87. #1887
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    887
    I've been running a 34t with Eagle, since I ran a 32t with X01 on my previous bike.

    I'm thinking about going to a 36t to be honest. The 50t is a giant gear in the back.

  88. #1888
    mtbr member
    Reputation: etuck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,013
    I have had a 32 on since I got the bike. Feels great.

    I also had the SI bolts tightened with loctite and rear end feels great again but only have about 5 hours on it. Thanks for recs, all! I have a long ride on Friday (happy solstice y'all) and hoping it holds up.

    Now I just need to find a good light trail tire combo. I destroyed the set of Aspens I had on for racing.
    Previously known as mttamrnr.

  89. #1889
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    I am running a 36 t chainring on mine as i am pretty sure this is the largest you can get on there .

  90. #1890
    It's the axle
    Reputation: Gregg K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,736
    The 36 is the largest. I was looking at the Yeti faq earlier.

    I've done spreadsheets on the cassette I've been riding for years versus the xx1 cassette, and 36t covers ever aspect of the 2x system I was running.

    My only concern was that perhaps the sb100 was optimized for the 32 tooth, like some other bike suspension designs.

    Either way I'm going with the 36. Sadly there are none to be found right now.
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  91. #1891
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    89
    I am pretty sure you get less pedal feedback from the suspension with larger chainrings

  92. #1892
    It's the axle
    Reputation: Gregg K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,736
    Quote Originally Posted by daniel366940 View Post
    I am pretty sure you get less pedal feedback from the suspension with larger chainrings
    Yep. Good point. I just realized I know the guy who designed it. I could just ask him. No it's fine. I hate/love waiting for parts. I literally rode the bike down the driveway without a chain or brakes this evening just trying to get a basic fit set up. I love the look of this frame!
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  93. #1893
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    64
    Has anyone successfully gotten a second bottle on this frame somewhere? It seems like I could get 2 bottles on top of each other with side-loading cages on the downtube. Wolftooth B-Rad?

  94. #1894
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by dgregorie View Post
    Has anyone successfully gotten a second bottle on this frame somewhere? It seems like I could get 2 bottles on top of each other with side-loading cages on the downtime. Wolftooth B-Rad?
    Iím picking mine up later today, and have a B-Rad, which Iíll be trying out. Will let you know.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  95. #1895
    It's the axle
    Reputation: Gregg K's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,736
    I found it. I knew this website was out there, but couldn't remember what it was called. It's a good documentation of the SB100 suspension characteristics. It also addresses the chainring size question.

    Yeti Cycles SB100 29" 2019 - Linkage Design
    Note to self: 85% of FTP for 20 min.

  96. #1896
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1,114
    Quote Originally Posted by dgregorie View Post
    Iím enjoying this Blur vs sb100 discussion as I recently put my 100 up for sale to get a new marathon race bike. I havenít really had any issues with mine since swapping out the V1 SI hardware, but Iíve never felt just right on it. I havenít been able to get used to the steeper seat tube and feel like Iím right over the BB. Maybe I havenít given the new position enough of a chance but right now my short list includes the Blur with a 120, new Top Fuel, and new Mach 4sl
    ...
    Last edited by BmanInTheD; 2 Days Ago at 12:20 PM.
    Pivot Mach 4 SL
    Ibis Ripmo
    Ibis Ripley V4
    Ibis Mojo HD4
    Pivot 429SL
    Pivot LES SS
    Colnago C60 Disc

  97. #1897
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    Quote Originally Posted by dgregorie View Post
    Has anyone successfully gotten a second bottle on this frame somewhere? It seems like I could get 2 bottles on top of each other with side-loading cages on the downtube. Wolftooth B-Rad?
    Negative on the B-Rad...tried it this morning.

    There's this, though, which I'm considering since there is plenty of room there - SKS-Germany Top Cage Mount.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  98. #1898
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    64
    Was the problem with the B-RAD length along the downtube or height in the triangle?
    I have used one of those strap-on bottle cages when I had a 4.5. Make sure to use some frame tape under it. Dirt works itís way in and can abrade your frame.

  99. #1899
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by dgregorie View Post
    Was the problem with the B-RAD length along the downtube or height in the triangle?
    I have used one of those strap-on bottle cages when I had a 4.5. Make sure to use some frame tape under it. Dirt works itís way in and can abrade your frame.
    Width; cranks hit the cages on both sides


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  100. #1900
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766

    Yeti SB100 Discussion, Performance and build

    Initial report after two rides.

    The bike is everything I hoped it would be. And more, frankly. Light and snappy, but stable and smooth. Pedaled great in all three modes (and I *LOVE* having the three manual modes, vs an off/on lockout. Itís one of the reasons I chose the SB100 over the Blur, and prefer it over the Mach 4 SL. I use the middle ďTrailĒ mode for much riding, and ďOpenĒ for chunkier stuff, or when I just want the bike fully active), and quite stiff and responsive when I locked it out and stood (Iím a SSíer, primarily, so that matters to me, bigtime). Buttery smooth over trail chatter, and moderate embedded rocks, and ate up the chunk on long, fast downhills. Felt like the 140/130 Intense Primer Elite I sold (and really liked), and I didnít come close to using all the travel on the SB. The Switch Infinity really does feel bottomless. I set up the suspension per the setup calculator on the Yeti web site. Super comfortable cockpit, with a very centered feel (IĒm 5í10 on a Large, and it fits perfect).

    My other two bikes are Pivot LESí (one geared; one SS; both size Large), and I love them; superbly designed bike. The SB100 feels very similar to me in the cockpit, and it ďcarvesĒ similar to the LES, which is very important to me. The Primer, with a slacker HA and more travel (140mm), tended to ďplowĒ on some downs and curves, and wander on some steep ups. None of that with the SB100; it is very precise. The Primer felt ďbigĒ to me, and the SB100 feels much more ďflickableĒ. This bike is the ďsweet spotĒ for me, in terms of geometry and travel, and exactly what I was looking for.

    No creaks from the SI, and no flex noted. I demoed an Intense Sniper last year, and could feel it flex. None on the SB100, and I hit some steep, chunky, fast sections.

    The only ďnegativeĒ is the lack of a second bottle cage mount. I tried a Wolftooth B-Rad, but the cranks hit the bottle cages. I will be experimenting with a top-tube mount, in front of the seat post, because there is room there. Will post up my experience.

    Weight was 25.16 without pedals or accessories; 26.00 with pedals, cage and mount for pump (on cage bolts). Very happy with that. Bike feels light, to me.

    Build is a Large Turq XO1, with the following changes/additions:
    - XG-1295 cassette instead of stock XG-1275 (lighter)
    - 32T chain ring, instead of stock 30T
    - BikeYoke Divine SL 80mm dropper instead of stock Fox Transfer 150mm (lighter, plus thatís all the travel I want)
    - Ergon GA3 grips instead of the stock GE1ís (I prefer the GA3ís for endurance riding)
    - Wheelset changed out as noted below
    - Maxxis Rekon 2.4 WTís instead of the stock Minion DHF and Aggressor (lighter, better rolling)
    **NOTE: I run way less PSI than recommended: 16.5 f/21.5 r. More than that, and I lose grip and it gets to chattery. No rim strikes. I measure with a good analog gauge before every ride. I am OCD about it.
    - OneUp hex-head Fox thru-axle, replacing the stock QR thru-axle
    - Shimano XTR M9120 pedals
    - Blackburn Carbon UD bottle cage
    - Granite load strap for tube and some misc stuff
    - OneUp EDC pump, with CO2 head and 2-cartridge storage

    The wheelset, with the Berd spokes, is a loaner, while I wait for my Hydra hubs. Iíve never ridden Berds before, and I have to say, Iím digging them. May switch my build to them. The white has grown on me. 30mm Chinese carbon hoops, BTW, same as Iím building up.

    I couldnít be happier with it.






    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  101. #1901
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    170
    Very cool. looks great. I have about a dozen rides on mine now and feel exactly the same. something about this bike just makes it feel perfect to me.
    2019 yeti sb100

  102. #1902
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by tony110672 View Post
    Very cool. looks great. I have about a dozen rides on mine now and feel exactly the same. something about this bike just makes it feel perfect to me.
    Yep; precisely how I feel!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

  103. #1903
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bencab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by waltaz View Post
    Initial report after two rides.


    The only ďnegativeĒ is the lack of a second bottle cage mount. I tried a Wolftooth B-Rad, but the cranks hit the bottle cages. I will be experimenting with a top-tube mount, in front of the seat post, because there is room there. Will post up my experience.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Walt, I used 2 Backcountry Research Super 8 top tube mount that can each hold 20 ounce bottle. They worked excellently.

  104. #1904
    I am Walt
    Reputation: waltaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    5,766
    Quote Originally Posted by bencab View Post
    Walt, I used 2 Backcountry Research Super 8 top tube mount that can each hold 20 ounce bottle. They worked excellently.
    Awesome, man...I will be ordering some! Thanks for the info!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Ride more; post less...

Page 10 of 10 FirstFirst ... 678910

Similar Threads

  1. Yeti SB 5.5c discussion
    By skinnybex in forum Yeti
    Replies: 3166
    Last Post: 1 Day Ago, 04:06 PM
  2. Fox 36 Performance vs Performance Elite?
    By arm121 in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 1 Week Ago, 07:56 AM
  3. Replies: 263
    Last Post: 10-12-2018, 10:31 AM
  4. Dual beam, Twin XM-L New Cycle light from SPARK: SB100
    By Skyraider59 in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-13-2014, 03:58 PM
  5. A Discussion of Tire Width, Weight, and Performance
    By The Boz in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 01-04-2012, 02:13 PM

Members who have read this thread: 681

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.