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  1. #3001
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    You should consider the Nox Farlows, stiff and way more compliant than Enves in my experience...

  2. #3002
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    +1
    i love mine!

  3. #3003
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    Quote Originally Posted by malvoize View Post
    maybe... but the guy that told me not to expect it would know Maybe he just isn't being truthful.
    Denver, CO

  4. #3004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    maybe... but the guy that told me not to expect it would know Maybe he just isn't being truthful.
    My sb55 has been stolen few weeks ago and it seems to be the worst time to know if I should buy a new one or not... I think I am going to ride my steel enduro hardtail longer than I initially thought!

  5. #3005
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    I'm sure it has already been addressed somewhere in the 3k posts in this thread, but what is the max tire width that will fit the 5.5? I'm aware the Yeti website has a generalized statement of 2.4, but in the real world has anyone tried a 2.5 or even 2.6?

  6. #3006
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    http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/...l#post13441838

    2.5 WT Aggressor on 29mm ID wheels fits, says that dude, but he also says it's tight. 2.6 I'd wager would rub the carbon under hard cornering, but I don't have real world experience with that.
    The correct number of bikes one should own is N+1, where N is the number of bikes currently owned.

  7. #3007
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    Yup, 2.5 aggressor on 30mm ID works in dry conditions but no good in sticky clay or anything that sticks to your tires when wet. Learned that the hard way. Mud stuck to the tire and then filled the chain stay and stopped the tire from moving at all.

  8. #3008
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    2.5 aggressor on a 30mm we are one agent 32H rim, 2017 SB5.5 Turq. Only ~0.2in gap to the drive side chain stay. It is very tight fit. I run frame protection on inside of chain stays. Small rocks picked up or mud can scratch the inside of the chain stays.

    2.4 DHR on a 29mm rim is also tight, only slightly more room, and similar sensitivity to mud and rocks picked up by the tread.

    YMMV

  9. #3009
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    baby with a new shox....awesome!!! not easy to set up but once done the bike is a beast!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB 5.5c discussion-yeti-sb5.5.jpg  


  10. #3010
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    Quote Originally Posted by oxcartdriver View Post
    2.5 aggressor on a 30mm we are one agent 32H rim, 2017 SB5.5 Turq. Only ~0.2in gap to the drive side chain stay. It is very tight fit. I run frame protection on inside of chain stays. Small rocks picked up or mud can scratch the inside of the chain stays.

    2.4 DHR on a 29mm rim is also tight, only slightly more room, and similar sensitivity to mud and rocks picked up by the tread.

    YMMV
    You sure that rim is centered like it's supposed to be? Cause I run the same rear set up you have and believe I have a bit more room, and it's pretty even on both sides.

  11. #3011
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    Quote Originally Posted by JC822 View Post
    You should consider the Nox Farlows, stiff and way more compliant than Enves in my experience...
    Are they vertically stiff but laterally compliant, or the other way around?
    The older I get, the faster I was.





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  12. #3012
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    Quote Originally Posted by malvoize View Post
    My sb55 has been stolen few weeks ago and it seems to be the worst time to know if I should buy a new one or not... I think I am going to ride my steel enduro hardtail longer than I initially thought!
    Having just ridden my steel enduro hardtail for longer than I initially thought... I wouldn't recommend it.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





    Punch it, Chewie.

  13. #3013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    Having just ridden my steel enduro hardtail for longer than I initially thought... I wouldn't recommend it.
    Good way to improve my skills!

  14. #3014
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    Saw a broken chain stay on a 2 month old SB 5.5 today. Oops! At least it happened at the end of the ride for that guy...

  15. #3015
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    Quote Originally Posted by beastmaster View Post
    Saw a broken chain stay on a 2 month old SB 5.5 today. Oops! At least it happened at the end of the ride for that guy...
    that nevvvver happens. anyone who says otherwise is just a hater ( ͡į ͜ʖ ͡į)

  16. #3016
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    Picked up my first 29 a few weeks back - SB5.5C Eagle and so far, I'm hooked. Haven't really felt a compelling need to change much to it either. I've swapped bars to Yeti 780's/20mm from the stock 785mm. Have wanted more adjustability with my stock 36 performance Fox forks but don't want to spend $$ on on a new set for marginal added improvement.

    Is there anything that's are "must haves" for this bike that I'm missing?

    So far this bike is really fast and just begs to be ridden harder. It's been a lot of fun so far.

    Thx

  17. #3017
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti_SB View Post
    Picked up my first 29 a few weeks back - SB5.5C Eagle and so far, I'm hooked. Haven't really felt a compelling need to change much to it either. I've swapped bars to Yeti 780's/20mm from the stock 785mm. Have wanted more adjustability with my stock 36 performance Fox forks but don't want to spend $$ on on a new set for marginal added improvement.

    Is there anything that's are "must haves" for this bike that I'm missing?

    So far this bike is really fast and just begs to be ridden harder. It's been a lot of fun so far.

    Thx
    No. Out of the box it is one of the most well rounded bikes out there.

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  18. #3018
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    If you have the Fox Transfer Post with stock lever scrap that sh!+. Pick up Wolf Tooth lever (the newer ball bearing one) and you will droppin' like it's hot.

  19. #3019
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    Was there frame design change between the 2016 and 2018 bikes? The Yeti site says the SB55 can only fit up to a 185mm rotor, but here (https://www.vitalmtb.com/photos/feat...3532/sspomer,2) Richie looks to be running a 203mm rotor. in the rear

    Anyone else out there running a 203 in back?



    -Ron.

  20. #3020
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Was there frame design change between the 2016 and 2018 bikes? The Yeti site says the SB55 can only fit up to a 185mm rotor, but here (https://www.vitalmtb.com/photos/feat...3532/sspomer,2) Richie looks to be running a 203mm rotor. in the rear

    Anyone else out there running a 203 in back?


    -Ron.
    No change I think, I reckon it's a warranty thing. I can confirm a 203 fits fine, no clearance issues. And with a seatstay/chainstay/axle junction as burly as this one I doubt there'll be problems.

  21. #3021
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slayer45 View Post
    If you have the Fox Transfer Post with stock lever scrap that sh!+. Pick up Wolf Tooth lever (the newer ball bearing one) and you will droppin' like it's hot.
    Thx. Yes agree, it sux. Can you point to what part I need? I have the SB5.5 SRAM Eagle build.

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  22. #3022
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    SB 5.5 Wheel Replacement Suggestions

    There are so many choices and the costs certainly get way up there. I'd like to stay with DT Swiss hubs, perhaps a higher end set and some decent wheels that don't have so much flex. Any suggestions from this forum? While lowering weight is always a goal, I'm less obsessed on this front.

    I have the GX Eagle build and the wheels sure flex a lot.

  23. #3023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti_SB View Post
    There are so many choices and the costs certainly get way up there. I'd like to stay with DT Swiss hubs, perhaps a higher end set and some decent wheels that don't have so much flex. Any suggestions from this forum? While lowering weight is always a goal, I'm less obsessed on this front.

    I have the GX Eagle build and the wheels sure flex a lot.
    Iíve always thought that the DT Swiss XM481 srock AL rims are some of the stiffest metal rims out there... by comparison, I bent a set of Arc 30s on the first ride.

    Iím a big fan of modern carbon wheels on 29ers... I think they make a huge difference, espcially in the larger wheel size.

    I switched to a pair of Ridefast Hotline wheels after having a long conversation with the company owner on a ride a few months ago incredible wheels, and the pricing is very reasonable for carbon wheels.

  24. #3024
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    Quote Originally Posted by ibis888 View Post
    Iíve always thought that the DT Swiss XM481 srock AL rims are some of the stiffest metal rims out there... by comparison, I bent a set of Arc 30s on the first ride.
    He said that he got the GX Eagle build, that comes with the DT Swiss M1900, which is their entry level wheel set. I am not sure how the XM 481 rim compares to the rim used in the M1900 set. Maybe its the same rim and only the hub (DT350 vs 370) and spokes are different.

  25. #3025
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    I can confirm that 203 rotor fits with no issue what so ever, been running new sram code with 203 rotors front and rear with no issue at all.

  26. #3026
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris29er View Post
    He said that he got the GX Eagle build, that comes with the DT Swiss M1900, which is their entry level wheel set. I am not sure how the XM 481 rim compares to the rim used in the M1900 set. Maybe its the same rim and only the hub (DT350 vs 370) and spokes are different.
    Rims are different. XM 481 rims are really good aluminum rims. Strong and stiff. They can take a beating. Iíve been really happy with the 350/481 wheelset. I also upgraded the star ratchet to the 56 tooth one for better engagement.

  27. #3027
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    Quote Originally Posted by turborobo View Post
    I can confirm that 203 rotor fits with no issue what so ever, been running new sram code with 203 rotors front and rear with no issue at all.
    Thanks!

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  28. #3028
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    Since the clearance on the rear is not too much, would it be worth having a 30mm rim on the front and a 25mm rim on the rear? Iím looking to get either xm 481s, or a 481 and 421. Iíd be happy running 2.3-2.4 in the rear. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

  29. #3029
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti_SB View Post
    There are so many choices and the costs certainly get way up there. I'd like to stay with DT Swiss hubs, perhaps a higher end set and some decent wheels that don't have so much flex. Any suggestions from this forum? While lowering weight is always a goal, I'm less obsessed on this front.

    I have the GX Eagle build and the wheels sure flex a lot.
    Santa Cruz Reserve Carbon with DT350 hubs. 30mm internal width. Really like mine. I had IBIS 942's on my SB55. 35mm internal width and I ran the 2.5 WT Maxxis aggressor with no clearance issues. (But I don't deal with mud very often). I like the feel of the SC Rims better. Plus lifetime warranty is unmatched.
    Last edited by LaCostaClydesdale; 08-27-2018 at 08:22 AM. Reason: Typo
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
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  30. #3030
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lumpkin411 View Post
    Since the clearance on the rear is not too much, would it be worth having a 30mm rim on the front and a 25mm rim on the rear? Iím looking to get either xm 481s, or a 481 and 421. Iíd be happy running 2.3-2.4 in the rear. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
    I have 30mm wheels and have settled on the dhr2 for the rear bc I gives gravel enough clearance. Iíd like to run a 25 or 27 mm for the rear so I could run a 2.3 without the side knobs contacting the ground when not in a corner.

  31. #3031
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    What bottom bracket do you have?

    I've got Race Face Cinch cranks (30mm spindle) and my Race Face bottom bracket is shot. It creaks so badly, I recently had someone on the trail say they hoped that sound wasn't coming from my knees.

    Short of replacing my cranks, are there any bottom brackets that are compatible with that crank in my trusty 5.5?

    Thanks!

  32. #3032
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    Quote Originally Posted by barenal View Post
    I've got Race Face Cinch cranks (30mm spindle) and my Race Face bottom bracket is shot. It creaks so badly, I recently had someone on the trail say they hoped that sound wasn't coming from my knees.

    Short of replacing my cranks, are there any bottom brackets that are compatible with that crank in my trusty 5.5?

    Thanks!
    Enduro bearings pf92 to bb30 adapter set. It's what I am using on my sb45c.

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  33. #3033
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    Enduro bearings pf92 to bb30 adapter set. It's what I am using on my sb45c.
    Thanks for the reply! Sorry for the stupid question but how does that work? Do you have one of these?

    https://www.endurobearings.com/technology/torqtite/

    Sorry again -- PF stuff has always confused the hell out of me!

  34. #3034
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    I switch from the Race Face PF92 to the RealWorldcycling BB. Works well, has held up good.

    I did have one RWC BB only last 1.25years due to improper installation. I pressed the bearing in too hard and cracked the lip of the bearing. My fault, but the bearing still held up great.

    There may be cheaper options and but the RWC BB has held up well in generally dry Colorado conditions.

  35. #3035
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    This one.. Yeti SB 5.5c discussion-screenshot_20180827-224520_google.jpeg

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  36. #3036
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    rwc stuff is good.

    bb infinite has been flawless in all bikes. spins better than ceramicspeed too.

    https://www.bbinfinite.com/

  37. #3037
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    Are they vertically stiff but laterally compliant, or the other way around?
    My experience felt the other way around.


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  38. #3038
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    I put an offset bushing for .5 slacker HA in last week and so far the results are good, I did add a bit more air to keep the sag on the short side of 17mm and it seems to pedal as good as before. Definitely can tell its a bit more slack and lower but all in a good way. I think I might switch out to a 1 deg angle set as this would steepen my seat tube and not drop the BB too low. Anyone else have any experience with this on a 5.5?

  39. #3039
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    Hey Guys, I'll be placing a L 2017 Turq 5.5 Frame set with an Avalanche Tuned X2 shock for sale in November once my Mondraker frame arrives. I also have a set of Fox 160mm forks that are Avy tuned as well that will be available.

    If you know anyone interested, let's talk!

    I just hope my new Foxy 29 can match the 5.5s capabilities. Since I've never ridden the Foxy I took quite a gamble and have concerns.

    Thanks~

  40. #3040
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    Quote Originally Posted by tilltheend View Post
    I put an offset bushing for .5 slacker HA in last week and so far the results are good, I did add a bit more air to keep the sag on the short side of 17mm and it seems to pedal as good as before. Definitely can tell its a bit more slack and lower but all in a good way. I think I might switch out to a 1 deg angle set as this would steepen my seat tube and not drop the BB too low. Anyone else have any experience with this on a 5.5?
    Quote Originally Posted by tilltheend View Post
    I think I might switch out to a 1 deg angle set as this would steepen my seat tube and not drop the BB too low. Anyone else have any experience with this on a 5.5?
    How much steeper would it make the seat tube angle?

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  41. #3041
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    yes it's me....put an angleset -1 on my sb5.5. In summary: more stability @ high speed and more control on the steep sections without any big losses in the climbing capability. Definitively "promoted"...love this bike

  42. #3042
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    Bought my first "boutique" bike being a 2018 5.5 xt/slx build. I worked as a mechanic for 9 years at a Trek shop (employee purchased bikes so I was limited to Trek/GF) raced XC many years and raced DH regionally. I will say I was bummed that 3 days after ordering the SB150 was released but outside of the lifetime warranty I think the 5.5 will be better for the Pisgah trails that are local to me now as an all around bike.

    Did take the 5.5 and my Session 10 to Snowshoe WV for closing weekend and just wanted to use the 5.5 on a couple runs to see how it handled the extended downhills. I was blown away by how it handled the more popular flow trails and a couple "proper" rock trails. Ended up riding it half the day since it was just so much easier to control and way more playful than the monster trucking DH rig. It doesn't have the issues I did with my 2014 slash 9 with pedaling and being too "endurbro" on regular trail rides either.

    Only thing that is still being worked out is rear end flex, I get brake rub at various times climbing/descending and have checked torque on all bolts/axle to no avail. I am a bigger guy at 250lbs but have not had this issue on any other frames.

  43. #3043
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker4evr13 View Post
    Bought my first "boutique" bike being a 2018 5.5 xt/slx build. I worked as a mechanic for 9 years at a Trek shop (employee purchased bikes so I was limited to Trek/GF) raced XC many years and raced DH regionally. I will say I was bummed that 3 days after ordering the SB150 was released but outside of the lifetime warranty I think the 5.5 will be better for the Pisgah trails that are local to me now as an all around bike.

    Did take the 5.5 and my Session 10 to Snowshoe WV for closing weekend and just wanted to use the 5.5 on a couple runs to see how it handled the extended downhills. I was blown away by how it handled the more popular flow trails and a couple "proper" rock trails. Ended up riding it half the day since it was just so much easier to control and way more playful than the monster trucking DH rig. It doesn't have the issues I did with my 2014 slash 9 with pedaling and being too "endurbro" on regular trail rides either.

    Only thing that is still being worked out is rear end flex, I get brake rub at various times climbing/descending and have checked torque on all bolts/axle to no avail. I am a bigger guy at 250lbs but have not had this issue on any other frames.
    have you checked the rear wheel? 29er wheel sometimes are so flexible...
    Last edited by guapo73; 10-04-2018 at 11:48 PM.

  44. #3044
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker4evr13 View Post
    Bought my first "boutique" bike being a 2018 5.5 xt/slx build. I worked as a mechanic for 9 years at a Trek shop (employee purchased bikes so I was limited to Trek/GF) raced XC many years and raced DH regionally. I will say I was bummed that 3 days after ordering the SB150 was released but outside of the lifetime warranty I think the 5.5 will be better for the Pisgah trails that are local to me now as an all around bike.

    Did take the 5.5 and my Session 10 to Snowshoe WV for closing weekend and just wanted to use the 5.5 on a couple runs to see how it handled the extended downhills. I was blown away by how it handled the more popular flow trails and a couple "proper" rock trails. Ended up riding it half the day since it was just so much easier to control and way more playful than the monster trucking DH rig. It doesn't have the issues I did with my 2014 slash 9 with pedaling and being too "endurbro" on regular trail rides either.

    Only thing that is still being worked out is rear end flex, I get brake rub at various times climbing/descending and have checked torque on all bolts/axle to no avail. I am a bigger guy at 250lbs but have not had this issue on any other frames.
    I get some rotor rubbing on the caliper mount washers during hard cornering on the rear end of my XL 5.5 with 200mm rotors on it. One thing to check is the clearance of any of the washers that are under the bolts that hold the caliper on. Sometimes they can ride very close to the rotor, closer than the caliper.

    I did not get this with my previous size L 5.5, and I didn't get it with 180mm rotors. Not a big deal for me, just a little noise when pedaling really hard out of the saddle or turning very hard.

  45. #3045
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    Quote Originally Posted by speeder1 View Post
    I get some rotor rubbing on the caliper mount washers during hard cornering on the rear end of my XL 5.5 with 200mm rotors on it. One thing to check is the clearance of any of the washers that are under the bolts that hold the caliper on. Sometimes they can ride very close to the rotor, closer than the caliper.

    I did not get this with my previous size L 5.5, and I didn't get it with 180mm rotors. Not a big deal for me, just a little noise when pedaling really hard out of the saddle or turning very hard.
    I am on a Large as well, it rubbed with the OE 160 rotor and the 180 that is on it now. I'll pull the caliper again to see if it is rubbing the caliper body or something else. Little noise might just be a necessary evil for lateral compliance, can't complain about the grip one bit. Other than this issue the bike is stellar.

  46. #3046
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    I see a lot of talk regarding the Aggressor 2.5, has anyone run the HIGH ROLLER 2.5 WT? I have 30.5 mm internal, debating HR 2.3 vs 2,5 WT.

  47. #3047
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilks View Post
    How much steeper would it make the seat tube angle?

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    I guess I meant with the shock bushings you end up lowering the BB which slackens the seat tube even more. The angel set would bring it back to normal angle...

  48. #3048
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    Quote Originally Posted by tilltheend View Post
    I guess I meant with the shock bushings you end up lowering the BB which slackens the seat tube even more. The angel set would bring it back to normal angle...
    Which brand of offset bushings and angle set did you install? I am looking to do the same on my 5.5

    Thanks

  49. #3049
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    Any guys around 245 fully loaded up give me any rough settings to get started with on an 18 5.5 with Fox 36 and DPX2? Tokens wise and such and PsI?

  50. #3050
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    Which brand of offset bushings and angle set did you install? I am looking to do the same on my 5.5

    Thanks
    I ordered from Offsetbushings.com in the UK and had delivered stateside within 7 days. So far so good with one mounted in the front shock bushing. Should have done this sooner
    UC

  51. #3051
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    Ordered a sb5.5 frameset yesterday on discount. I did think about the sb130, but the new geometry a large is too big for me and a medium would mean I'd have about 2 feet of post sticking out. I bought the frame at a significant discount. Not having to buy another fork was also a big part of my decision. Have a 2108 Fox 36 and didn't want to spend another $900 for a new fork. The best part is I have an X2 that fits the frame. So if anyone is in need of a new dpx2 when I get my frameset, I'll gladly sell it. I've had the dpx2 on 2 bikes and it is good, but like the ability to firm up compression with the X2.

  52. #3052
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    message me your price on the dpx2

  53. #3053
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    Deleted by OP.
    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 11-03-2018 at 04:28 PM.

  54. #3054
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    Sold.
    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 11-05-2018 at 01:22 PM.

  55. #3055
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    SOLD.

    I no longer belong to the Tribe.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yeti SB 5.5c discussion-20181103_091934.jpeg  

    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 11-07-2018 at 06:01 PM.

  56. #3056
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Suns_PSD View Post
    Guys, i'm parting out some 5.5 specific parts.

    This is a '17 X2, with Avalanche Tuning and an RWC roller bearing kit.
    +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    ?*?*? This shock is so much better than the stock shock I don't have words to describe. In makes the bike better at pedaling and better at descending all at the same time.*?*?
    & you're selling it?
    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


    It has one little rock mark in the Kashima coating, it's been there since the shock was a week old, it's never hurt a thing.

    I have about $1k in to the shock new cost.

    $420 shipped, buyer pays PP fees.



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  57. #3057
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhodge View Post
    ???
    Sold
    Last edited by Suns_PSD; 11-05-2018 at 01:23 PM.

  58. #3058
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    I'm building up a sb5.5 and removing the dpx2 factory shock (200x57) that comes with it. It has never been used...brand new. I'm finishing up my build tonight and putting an X2 on it that I already had. If you're interested please message me and I can send photos via text or email. $400 shipped. I'll put it up on PB this weekend if it hasn't sold.Yeti SB 5.5c discussion-img_20181110_125215.jpg
    Last edited by foggnm; 11-13-2018 at 07:20 AM.

  59. #3059
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I'm building up a sb5.5 and removing the dpx2 factory shock (200x57) that comes with it. It has never been used...brand new. I'm finishing up my build tonight and putting an X2 on it that I already had. If you're interested please message me and I can send photos via text or email. $400 shipped. I'll put it up on PB this weekend if it hasn't sold.Click image for larger version. 

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    Black Friday sale, above shock $350 shipped. Oh, and here's my new 5.5...
    Yeti SB 5.5c discussion-img_20181110_103957.jpg

  60. #3060
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    I heard not to expect a new or replacement for the 5.5 this fall.
    I'd say your source was off. :-)

  61. #3061
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Back in September I posted a bunch of info on my bike comparisons in the Orbea ride review thread that I created.

    Here's how a rated a few of the bikes back then. The Rallon has actually impressed me even more since then but I still feel the SB5.5 is the faster and more fun bike if you get the sizing right.

    Below were my thoughts back then




    What's it all mean regarding the 4 Long Travel 29'ers I've Ridden ?

    All these conclusions are with the bikes fork and rear shock ridden in the open position. The Enduro 29 really benefits from a firm trail setting on the rear shock when climbing and pedaling Flow/Singletrack. The Yeti is the one bike that never feels like you need the lever flipped.


    10 point rating system

    ............................(Rallon)..(SB5.5)..(Wr eck)..(E29)
    1- Pedal Efficiency:..(7.5) ......(9.5).....(6.5) ....(7.0)
    2- Acceleration:.......(7.0).......(8.5).....(7.0)... ..(7.5)
    3- Playfulness:........(7.5).......(8.0)......(8.0).. ...(8.5)
    4- Turns and Berms.(9.5)......(8.5)......(9.0).....(8.5)
    5- Jump & Drop:.....(8.5).......(8.0)......(9.0).....(8.0)
    6- Descending:.......(9.0).......(8.5)......(9.0).... .(8.5)
    7- Bonus Intangible.(9.0).....(8.0)......(7.0)......(8.5)

    Total out of 70pts:...(58).......(59)......(55.5)....(56.5)

    Orbea Rallon is an above average pedaling bike "seated climbing is very good" with great Descending capabilities and stability. Stiff rear end and long WB keeps the bike from never feeling nervous or sketchy.

    Yeti SB5.5 is an amazing pedal effecient bike that sets PR's with its well rounded attributes. Snappy acceleration and a race firm suspension feel make it lightning fast. another 1/2 degree slacker HTA would make it even better.

    Evil Wreckoning is a Gravity devouring monster that's also Poppy and Playful but a real chore on the flats and steeper climbs. The steeper and Gnarlier the terrain the better the bike is for you. Feels a bit clunky when not pointed down.

    The now Older 2017 Enduro 29 is a Playful and nimble bike that only suffers from it's pillowy soft pedaling performance but is otherwise solid in every regard. The 2018 edition will make it and even better descending bike with Geo Tweaks.
    Skinny, now that you have the 130, perhaps you can add it to this list? For example, on acceleration, I'd list the 130 as 9.5 considering the 5.5 shows 8.5 in your list.

  62. #3062
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    So this may have been covered regarding anglesets:

    Would using a -1.5 angleset and 44 offset fork improve my 5.5 handling to more like the sb130?

    I bought a Stumpy EVO to see what I thought on handling - and Its good for riding WFO, but the stumpy is a tank (and I have a wierd emotional attachment to my yeti - probably looks).





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  63. #3063
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    Has anyone used a maxxis dhf 2.5 on the rear? Or should I just use a dhr 2.3?

  64. #3064
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    FWIW I have a DHR2 2.4 WT on mine. 30 inner rims. Works fine.

  65. #3065
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilks View Post
    FWIW I have a DHR2 2.4 WT on mine. 30 inner rims. Works fine.
    Same...with a few bike park laps and no issues.

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  66. #3066
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    Hey 5.5 owners...

    Anyone installed offset bushings? I like the idea of going a little slacker and lowering the BB just a bit.

    I can't find any specific info on exactly how much the offset bushing(s) changes the bikes geo numbers? Also...if you have switched these out and are happy with the results...where did you buy the bushings?

    Thanks!

  67. #3067
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasonHH View Post
    Hey 5.5 owners...

    Anyone installed offset bushings? I like the idea of going a little slacker and lowering the BB just a bit.

    I can't find any specific info on exactly how much the offset bushing(s) changes the bikes geo numbers? Also...if you have switched these out and are happy with the results...where did you buy the bushings?

    Thanks!
    I ordered from Offsetbushings.com in the UK and had delivered stateside within 7 days. So far so good with one mounted in the front shock bushing. Should have done this sooner
    UC

  68. #3068
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    New to the tribe and Iím stoked to be on the 5.5




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  69. #3069
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    We Are One Agent (carbon, lifetime warranty, 30mm internal width) rims laced to DTSwiss 240 hubs can weigh as little as 1631 grams and they are super durable. I'm running them on my Honzo Ti hardtail right now and rally it throughout some of Grand Junctions hardest trails w/o any issues.

  70. #3070
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    I second the We Are One agents...I have a set on my sb5.5 with Hope hubs and they have been amazing. Gave the bike a really nice responsive feeling and have been true and tough for a season of North Tahoe bashing.


    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    We Are One Agent (carbon, lifetime warranty, 30mm internal width) rims laced to DTSwiss 240 hubs can weigh as little as 1631 grams and they are super durable. I'm running them on my Honzo Ti hardtail right now and rally it throughout some of Grand Junctions hardest trails w/o any issues.

  71. #3071
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    So the bike I bought came with both the offset bushings (ore installed) and a set of stock bushings

    I havenít ridden with the stock bushings yet. I like the way it feels now, but was curious as to how the bike would feel with the favtory bushings.

    Any insight?

  72. #3072
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    New Forum Member from Bend, OR - SB5.5c vs SB130 dilemma

    Hey everyone, it's Jason from Bend, Oregon. New to this forum but been lurking and reading for hours.

    Is it crazy for me to buy the sb5.5c online without having even ridden the bike (the best deals can be found online and none are available locally given they are discontinued)?

    Context:
    My Trek Remedy Race Shop Limited (27.5, full carbon, carbon wheels, XTR build, 160mm Lyrik fork, 150mm rear travel) was stolen a few weeks ago and now I am shopping for a new longish travel 29er. I loved the Remedy but know I will be faster everywhere on a 29er so it's time to make the jump.

    My dilemma is this: I can buy a very nicely specced, brand new 2018 sb5.5c Turq for about $4700 whereas the similarly equipped sb130 Turq will be $7200. So the newer bike is 53% more expensive. I'm a practical guy and don't generally chase the latest, greatest most expensive bike. I also generally want an all mountain bike... I will do 4-5 days at bike parks a year, but mostly am earning turns and riding singletrack for the love of being on the bike (and fitness it brings).

    All my buddies are buying Ripmos. I am less inclined to buy a Ripmo although I haven't demo'd one.

    Here's the dilemma:


    There's no way for me to demo the sb5.5c. I'm fairly certain I'm a size large (6'1" with normal reach and 32" inseam).

    Is it crazy for me to buy the sb5.5c without having even ridden the bike (the best deals can be found online)? There's not even one for sale locally that I could take for a test ride (Bend is a small ski/mountain bike town in Central Oregon).

  73. #3073
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    Perhaps you should send a message locally? I saw a few locals riding SB5.5 when I visited Bend in May. If you can get hold of them, they may let you test ride their bike....

  74. #3074
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason W View Post
    Hey everyone, it's Jason from Bend, Oregon. New to this forum but been lurking and reading for hours.

    Is it crazy for me to buy the sb5.5c online without having even ridden the bike (the best deals can be found online and none are available locally given they are discontinued)?

    Context:
    My Trek Remedy Race Shop Limited (27.5, full carbon, carbon wheels, XTR build, 160mm Lyrik fork, 150mm rear travel) was stolen a few weeks ago and now I am shopping for a new longish travel 29er. I loved the Remedy but know I will be faster everywhere on a 29er so it's time to make the jump.

    My dilemma is this: I can buy a very nicely specced, brand new 2018 sb5.5c Turq for about $4700 whereas the similarly equipped sb130 Turq will be $7200. So the newer bike is 53% more expensive. I'm a practical guy and don't generally chase the latest, greatest most expensive bike. I also generally want an all mountain bike... I will do 4-5 days at bike parks a year, but mostly am earning turns and riding singletrack for the love of being on the bike (and fitness it brings).

    All my buddies are buying Ripmos. I am less inclined to buy a Ripmo although I haven't demo'd one.

    Here's the dilemma:


    There's no way for me to demo the sb5.5c. I'm fairly certain I'm a size large (6'1" with normal reach and 32" inseam).

    Is it crazy for me to buy the sb5.5c without having even ridden the bike (the best deals can be found online)? There's not even one for sale locally that I could take for a test ride (Bend is a small ski/mountain bike town in Central Oregon).
    It's not crazy at all as the SB5.5 is a very forgiving bike that sits right in-between the current Long, Low and Slack geo but also it's not old school Uber Short, Steep and mushy.

    What I mean by this is the Sb5.5 is a very balanced bike regarding HTA, WB and STA so it's going to work well for all ride styles and also most body sizes. Based on your inseam your a size Large and can run a 150mm dropper. Now you might need a 60mm stem but first try the stock 50mm and you'll be G2G
    Yeti SB165
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  75. #3075
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    On the other hand the SB130 might take a complete reprogram of your riding style and habits. Especially since your coming from a 27.5" wheeled bike and the geo is rather vanilla.

    I happen to think the SB130 is the best single bike choice available today but with that being said the SB5.5 for the Value that it can be had online with the component spec is almost unbeatable and with a few tweaks you can make it a bit more aggressive than it already is.
    Yeti SB165
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  76. #3076
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    On the other hand the SB130 might take a complete reprogram of your riding style and habits. Especially since your coming from a 27.5" wheeled bike and the geo is rather vanilla.

    I happen to think the SB130 is the best single bike choice available today but with that being said the SB5.5 for the Value that it can be had online with the component spec is almost unbeatable and with a few tweaks you can make it a bit more aggressive than it already is.
    Super helpful. Thank you very much @skinnybex. When you say a bit more aggressive you mean make it more slack, right?

    My plan for the 5.5c would be carbon wheels, lighter cassette (spec is GX Eagle), 2.5" tires and play with the cockpit, if required, to get the reach. Maybe X2 shock and Grip 2 Fork but probably I am not a good enough rider to really need that level of investment and can make the older Factory fork and DPX2 work well.

    Coming from the 650b 2017 Remedy I think the sb5.5c is going to feel longer and lower and slacker to me, and probably not as quick nor as stiff (that Remedy frame is a really a great design) nor as poppy, but I'll be faster everywhere on the 5.5c.

    Everything is relative I suppose - I used to rail everything in the Whistler Bike Park on my 2011 Remedy Carbon (I was the only guy I saw on Top of the World and Dirt Merchant on a single crown bike) but I am older now and don't know that longer, lower and slacker is necessarily what I am after.

    If cost were no option I might pull the trigger on the SB130 or a built Rallon but that 5.5c for $4700 is hard to pass up, and then I can use the remaining insurance money for a fatbike to get me through the Bend winters. That's my current thinking anyhow.

    I just need to be able to keep up with my buddies on their Ripmos.

    Jason

  77. #3077
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    Your pretty much spot on with your thoughts as the Remedy is an outstanding bike for how versatile it is. The SB5.5 is going to give you increased roll over and way less prone to stuffing the front end in a hole or slow speed chuck section and it'll also hold and carry it's speed over longer segments. The bike won't initialy accelerate as fast but once your up to speed it'll be a rocket ship.

    You'll sacrifice some dexterity as the smaller wheels allow the bike to maneuver better but the gains you'll make will be better in the long run.

    Yeah, throw offset bushings on the bike and get the head angle to 66 degrees and it'll be even better. you won't sacrifice any real performance loss but gain more confidence just in the way the bike feels in steeper terrain and slow speed moves like rock slab rolls and off camber steep turns because you'll feel in the pocket and not over the front end to much.
    Yeti SB165
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  78. #3078
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnybex View Post
    Your pretty much spot on with your thoughts as the Remedy is an outstanding bike for how versatile it is. The SB5.5 is going to give you increased roll over and way less prone to stuffing the front end in a hole or slow speed chuck section and it'll also hold and carry it's speed over longer segments. The bike won't initialy accelerate as fast but once your up to speed it'll be a rocket ship.

    You'll sacrifice some dexterity as the smaller wheels allow the bike to maneuver better but the gains you'll make will be better in the long run.

    Yeah, throw offset bushings on the bike and get the head angle to 66 degrees and it'll be even better. you won't sacrifice any real performance loss but gain more confidence just in the way the bike feels in steeper terrain and slow speed moves like rock slab rolls and off camber steep turns because you'll feel in the pocket and not over the front end to much.
    How would you compare the climbing capabilities of the 5.5c to the Ripmo and Rallon? I've read so many articles on the 5.5c and they range from "best climber in the test" to "acceptable but not great". I've ridden the Rallon but not the Ripmo.

    My thinking is the 5.5c is going to climb way better than my Remedy due to the larger contact patches, better rollover, more weight over front wheel (heavier wheels plus geometry and longer wheelbase) and have less pedal bob than the ABP on the Trek (SI plus Weagle rear end).

    5.5c will weigh about 1 lb more than my RSL which was about 28 lbs as I had it specced but the 29er wheels (contact patch + momentum + rollover) should be the biggest advantage climbing.

  79. #3079
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason W View Post
    How would you compare the climbing capabilities of the 5.5c to the Ripmo and Rallon? I've read so many articles on the 5.5c and they range from "best climber in the test" to "acceptable but not great". I've ridden the Rallon but not the Ripmo.

    My thinking is the 5.5c is going to climb way better than my Remedy due to the larger contact patches, better rollover, more weight over front wheel (heavier wheels plus geometry and longer wheelbase) and have less pedal bob than the ABP on the Trek (SI plus Weagle rear end).

    5.5c will weigh about 1 lb more than my RSL which was about 28 lbs as I had it specced but the 29er wheels (contact patch + momentum + rollover) should be the biggest advantage climbing.
    Out of the saddle or hard cadence sprinting and power moves the SB5.5 is in a league of it's own and all Yeti SI bikes for that matter.

    The Ripmo isn't far behind is is a bit better on ledgy climbs or slow seated pedaling just due to the steep STA and the DW suspension doesn't get hung up at all. The new Yeti SB130 is even better than the others because it adds the steeper STA but with all the benefits of the SI antisquat that has very little wasted energy.

    The Rallon is a happy Medium and is more like your Trek as it's a Split Pivot clone and is very effecient on grind it out climbs and slower tech up's but when laying down out and out power the bike will not pick up momentum as well.
    Yeti SB165
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  80. #3080
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    The main reason I bought a Ripmo instead of the SB5.5 (130 hadn't come out yet) was the seat tube angle combined with my 35" inseam. A little too much "in the back seat" with the post extended where I needed it for the steeper seated climbs. I think the L/5.5 would be a great fit at your inseam and climb extremely well. The down, of course, is widely hailed and will probably handle anything your nerve can throw at it. That price point facilitating the fattie for winter sounds like a sound plan to me.

  81. #3081
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    [QUOTE=Jason W;13937078]Super helpful. Thank you very much @skinnybex. When you say a bit more aggressive you mean make it more slack, right?

    My plan for the 5.5c would be carbon wheels, lighter cassette (spec is GX Eagle), 2.5" tires and play with the cockpit, if required, to get the reach.

    Just so you donít get caught of guard. You will probably need to reconsider the 2.5 on the rear and go 2.4 at the biggest. I only ran a 2.3 Aggressor, but I recall threads stating that the 2.5 will rub. Skinny should be able to confirm this, as others will.

  82. #3082
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    This whole conversation has been super helpful. I was in the dreaming stages of a possible RipMO/Jeffsy/Troy purchase when I spotted a 2018 leftover 5.5 NX (non Turq) for $4k online. I've yet to go see it at the shop for fear of what I might do.

  83. #3083
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    Been away from this post for awhile. I had an XL 5.5c. It never felt right to me in terms of fit. To short top tube, too long seatpost meant I was sitting on top of the bike more than in it. I felt tippy on it.

    I sold it and went with a XXL YT Capra 29. Long low slack, love the geo/fit. Going really fast on a trail with bigger turns and features...this bike is amazing. Going kinda fast with tighter twisty, no flow trails, then not so much. Itís big. Itís relatively heavy, and it is not the climber the 5.5c is. (Though it is a pretty good climber for 160mm of Horst link travel...better than expected)

    Itís been a year, and Iíve grown tired of hauling that big ass bike uphill and itís also a lot of work to maneuver around 75% of the trails I ride. Now Iím selling it and leaning toward the SB130. I believe it is better suited to the majority of my riding.

    Interested in anyoneís experience going from SB5.5c to SB130. I was an XL 5.5c. The XL SB130 has geo very close to my XXL Capra and now has a much shorter seat tube. I see Skinnyís guidance above, but that is pointed to someone new to 29ers and new to LLS geometry. Would like a more direct compare between 5.5c and 130. (SB150 is too much bike for most of what I ride).
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
    2018 YT Capra CF Pro 29er XXL - sold
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  84. #3084
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Been away from this post for awhile. I had an XL 5.5c. It never felt right to me in terms of fit. To short top tube, too long seatpost meant I was sitting on top of the bike more than in it. I felt tippy on it.

    I sold it and went with a XXL YT Capra 29. Long low slack, love the geo/fit. Going really fast on a trail with bigger turns and features...this bike is amazing. Going kinda fast with tighter twisty, no flow trails, then not so much. Itís big. Itís relatively heavy, and it is not the climber the 5.5c is. (Though it is a pretty good climber for 160mm of Horst link travel...better than expected)

    Itís been a year, and Iíve grown tired of hauling that big ass bike uphill and itís also a lot of work to maneuver around 75% of the trails I ride. Now Iím selling it and leaning toward the SB130. I believe it is better suited to the majority of my riding.

    Interested in anyoneís experience going from SB5.5c to SB130. I was an XL 5.5c. The XL SB130 has geo very close to my XXL Capra and now has a much shorter seat tube. I see Skinnyís guidance above, but that is pointed to someone new to 29ers and new to LLS geometry. Would like a more direct compare between 5.5c and 130. (SB150 is too much bike for most of what I ride).
    How tall/big are you that an XL 5.5c felt tight? Must be a big Dude?

  85. #3085
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    Been away from this post for awhile. I had an XL 5.5c. It never felt right to me in terms of fit. To short top tube, too long seatpost meant I was sitting on top of the bike more than in it. I felt tippy on it.

    I sold it and went with a XXL YT Capra 29. Long low slack, love the geo/fit. Going really fast on a trail with bigger turns and features...this bike is amazing. Going kinda fast with tighter twisty, no flow trails, then not so much. Itís big. Itís relatively heavy, and it is not the climber the 5.5c is. (Though it is a pretty good climber for 160mm of Horst link travel...better than expected)

    Itís been a year, and Iíve grown tired of hauling that big ass bike uphill and itís also a lot of work to maneuver around 75% of the trails I ride. Now Iím selling it and leaning toward the SB130. I believe it is better suited to the majority of my riding.

    Interested in anyoneís experience going from SB5.5c to SB130. I was an XL 5.5c. The XL SB130 has geo very close to my XXL Capra and now has a much shorter seat tube. I see Skinnyís guidance above, but that is pointed to someone new to 29ers and new to LLS geometry. Would like a more direct compare between 5.5c and 130. (SB150 is too much bike for most of what I ride).
    I should be able to give you impressions of the 2 bikes on our San Diego trails as they dry out. Was on a 5.5 since they came out in 2016 and just moved to an sb130.

    First impressions are I like the geometry better. I've wanted more reach with a shorter/steeper seat tube for a while now. Rear suspension feels more compliant that my 5.5 in the initial stroke and ramps fairly well at the end stroke for trail riding. Definitely feels lower and "carvier" than my 5.5 did.

    But, more mileage is needed to give more definitive impressions.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  86. #3086
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    @montananat I am 6í4Ē. 35Ē inseam and sleeve length. My issue with the 5.5c was the reach felt cramped and then the seattube...ugh. The short reach left me feeling too much on top of the bike. So much so I felt tippy on slow speed tech climbs and like I was always going to go OTB on downhill stuff. This coming off a Stumpjumper with a 140. With the longer reach on the Capra I can properly weight the front tire and push more into turns, stay centered, and Inhave better control in general.
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
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  87. #3087
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaCostaClydesdale View Post
    @montananat I am 6í4Ē. 35Ē inseam and sleeve length. My issue with the 5.5c was the reach felt cramped and then the seattube...ugh. The short reach left me feeling too much on top of the bike. So much so I felt tippy on slow speed tech climbs and like I was always going to go OTB on downhill stuff. This coming off a Stumpjumper with a 140. With the longer reach on the Capra I can properly weight the front tire and push more into turns, stay centered, and Inhave better control in general.
    Gotcha, that makes sense. I have an XL 5.5c on it's way, so I am hoping it works well for me at 6'2" and a 33" inseam. I am planning on running a short stem. I demo'd a Large 5.5c and while I guess I got used to it by the end of the day, it did feel cramped to me. I feel like I'm always on the L/XL cusp with bikes.

  88. #3088
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    Just picked up a M SB5.5 Turq X01 build (XT brakes) from Competitive Cyclist. The deals on there right now were just too good to pass up. Stoked to get it rolling come spring, too much snow here in the CO mountains right now. I'm sure the SB130 is likely a bit better in every way, but getting this bike for about 4300$ w/o wheels (I've got some WAO Agents to put on), I think its going to well worth the 2500$ money saved.

    While I'm between sizes as well, I'm 5'10'', I like the maneuverability of a shorter bike. I also have shorter arms than legs, so that helps as well I suppose. I've got a 50mm stem on there now, 770mm bars, and a 170mm dropper as the seat tube is a bit shorter than the L. The measurements I've taken are nearly identical to the fit of my M Honzo Ti with a 140mm fork, and that bike was faster on some smoother downhills than my 2015 L Trek Slash... I know, seems weird. Likely mostly the 29'' wheels, but the maneuverability even at high speeds I find inspires more confidence than something that I can't flick L or R if my line needs to be adjusted. Haven't weighed the bike yet, but I'm guessing 28 pounds on the nose with the carbon rims, cranks, bars and turq frame.

    Anyway, if anyone else is looking for a SB5.5 now, seems like the time to buy!

    Yeti SB 5.5c discussion-img_8590.jpg

  89. #3089
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    Quote Originally Posted by montananate View Post
    Gotcha, that makes sense. I have an XL 5.5c on it's way, so I am hoping it works well for me at 6'2" and a 33" inseam. I am planning on running a short stem. I demo'd a Large 5.5c and while I guess I got used to it by the end of the day, it did feel cramped to me. I feel like I'm always on the L/XL cusp with bikes.
    6'2" with a long trunk - you'll likely feel cramped if you try to run a really short stem on that thing - 50-60mm stem is probably the starting point.

    I did like the XL SB5.5c (your height, 1" more inseam plus some ape index added probably), and that bike felt fantastic climbing, but as cramped as my older setups once I tried to do something interesting downhill.
    Unbeatable suspension platform setup for technical climbing, but I'd have needed to work on sizing quite a bit to get really comfortable (for reference, I'm on an XXL Instinct now, running 810mm bars and 50mm stem to get that to feel less cramped for me).

  90. #3090
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    Couple of how to ?s for some home maintenance on the 5.5:

    1) is it possible to clean and relube a CK PF24 without removing the cups from the frame and without the tool? Iíve watched some videos and itís not very hard to expose the bearings (thus not needing the tool) but just wondering if itís feasible while leaving the BB installed. Also seems like green grease from park tool is a bit too tacky, think the molybdenum stuff from yeti would work? (I have some with a perfect applicator for the bearing rings) or better to go with something like slick honey.?

    2) how can you evaluate whether you need crank/BB spacers, when I removed the old XT I feel like there MIGHT have been one small spacer but now I canít seem to find it, new one is an XT crank, wolftooth 30t ring. Frame has MRP AMg V2 bash guard on it. Doesnít seem like a spacer would make a difference in terms of chain line and frame rub but not sure if Iím looking at it in the correct fashion.

    Cheers!

  91. #3091
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    Just picked up a M SB5.5 Turq X01 build (XT brakes) from Competitive Cyclist. The deals on there right now were just too good to pass up. Stoked to get it rolling come spring, too much snow here in the CO mountains right now. I'm sure the SB130 is likely a bit better in every way, but getting this bike for about 4300$ w/o wheels (I've got some WAO Agents to put on), I think its going to well worth the 2500$ money saved.

    While I'm between sizes as well, I'm 5'10'', I like the maneuverability of a shorter bike. I also have shorter arms than legs, so that helps as well I suppose. I've got a 50mm stem on there now, 770mm bars, and a 170mm dropper as the seat tube is a bit shorter than the L. The measurements I've taken are nearly identical to the fit of my M Honzo Ti with a 140mm fork, and that bike was faster on some smoother downhills than my 2015 L Trek Slash... I know, seems weird. Likely mostly the 29'' wheels, but the maneuverability even at high speeds I find inspires more confidence than something that I can't flick L or R if my line needs to be adjusted. Haven't weighed the bike yet, but I'm guessing 28 pounds on the nose with the carbon rims, cranks, bars and turq frame.

    Anyway, if anyone else is looking for a SB5.5 now, seems like the time to buy!

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    I was planning on building up a tracer but couldn't pass on the deal competitive cyclist had going. I swapped to a fox transfer, wolftooth remote, ergon sme seat, ergon grips, and used my existing xm481/dt350 wheelset. Came in around 28lbs.

    I had some time today to take it out for a ride at Sedona and start tweaking everything. Did a highline loop with a run down the drops on easy breezy and slim shady. It had no issues handling the drops or descents, but something still feels a bit off. Kind of like the bike wants to do its own thing rather than being an extension of your body. Techy stuff that feels natural on a trail bike had the 5.5 feeling clumsy. Firming up the suspension corrected some of this.

    If you like to wheelie and manual, this 5.5 has a wicked balance point. Really easy to get the front end up and keep it up.

  92. #3092
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    Quote Originally Posted by slacker607 View Post

    If you like to wheelie and manual, this 5.5 has a wicked balance point. Really easy to get the front end up and keep it up.

    I couldn't pass up the deal on a 2018 either. Bought it from a shop an hour or so away from home. Only a rip down the neighborhood at this point, but I pulled off the longest wheelie of my life within 30 seconds of riding this bike lol.

    Stupid question of the day: I didn't come home with so much as a manual (easy enough to print). Anything come with your bikes? Fork volume spacers? Anything? (My OG Bronson came with a little pouch, grease gun, ect). I got too wrapped up in excitement when they handed the bike to me after being looked over by mechanic to think straight and ask the question at the time.

  93. #3093
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOSSinNH View Post
    I couldn't pass up the deal on a 2018 either. Bought it from a shop an hour or so away from home. Only a rip down the neighborhood at this point, but I pulled off the longest wheelie of my life within 30 seconds of riding this bike lol.

    Stupid question of the day: I didn't come home with so much as a manual (easy enough to print). Anything come with your bikes? Fork volume spacers? Anything? (My OG Bronson came with a little pouch, grease gun, ect). I got too wrapped up in excitement when they handed the bike to me after being looked over by mechanic to think straight and ask the question at the time.
    I received a couple generic manuals from fox and a yeti manual that is 99% non English. So we are in the same boat, lol. I have found answers on torque specs and suspension psi using google and adding forum after the search query. I just purchased an invisiframe kit due to AZ riding and a grease gun for the link 4mm maintenance. Everything else is pretty standard.

  94. #3094
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    Quote Originally Posted by slacker607 View Post
    I received a couple generic manuals from fox and a yeti manual that is 99% non English. So we are in the same boat, lol. I have found answers on torque specs and suspension psi using google and adding forum after the search query. I just purchased an invisiframe kit due to AZ riding and a grease gun for the link 4mm maintenance. Everything else is pretty standard.
    I actually contacted Yeti and they verified the same. I ordered the frame protection kit from Yeti, probably should have ordered the Invisiframe stuff instead. I need some spring here in the Northeast to ride it!

  95. #3095
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    Quote Originally Posted by slacker607 View Post
    I was planning on building up a tracer but couldn't pass on the deal competitive cyclist had going. I swapped to a fox transfer, wolftooth remote, ergon sme seat, ergon grips, and used my existing xm481/dt350 wheelset. Came in around 28lbs.

    I had some time today to take it out for a ride at Sedona and start tweaking everything. Did a highline loop with a run down the drops on easy breezy and slim shady. It had no issues handling the drops or descents, but something still feels a bit off. Kind of like the bike wants to do its own thing rather than being an extension of your body. Techy stuff that feels natural on a trail bike had the 5.5 feeling clumsy. Firming up the suspension corrected some of this.

    If you like to wheelie and manual, this 5.5 has a wicked balance point. Really easy to get the front end up and keep it up.
    I haven't had any time to take my on the trails yet, but considering the progression of teh 5.5's rear end I have added swapped out the stock volume spacer from the 0.2 to the 0.6 and brought the sag down from the recommended 17.5mm to just about 15.5 / 16mm. I think these will carryover nicely so that it doesn't use too much of its travel in techy climbing. Off to Moab at the end of the month to see if I'm right.

  96. #3096
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOSSinNH View Post
    I couldn't pass up the deal on a 2018 either. Bought it from a shop an hour or so away from home. Only a rip down the neighborhood at this point, but I pulled off the longest wheelie of my life within 30 seconds of riding this bike lol.

    Stupid question of the day: I didn't come home with so much as a manual (easy enough to print). Anything come with your bikes? Fork volume spacers? Anything? (My OG Bronson came with a little pouch, grease gun, ect). I got too wrapped up in excitement when they handed the bike to me after being looked over by mechanic to think straight and ask the question at the time.
    I got mine from Competitive Cyclist and it came with a generic Yeti Cycles manual from 2014... I found the 2018 manual online which had most of the details you'll need for the 5.5. It didn't have seat collar torque, but I contacted Yeti and they said 4-5n/m is good. If you have any specific questions you can e-mail their tech support and they should get back to you in a a few business days.

    As for volume spacers - I had to get these separately.
    Grease gun and switch link grease - still need to get this separately as well.

    Enjoy the new ride!

  97. #3097
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    Loved my large sb5.5 but wanted just a little longer front center. Just built an XL! MRP Ribbon coil on the front, also have the air version....love them both!
    Yeti SB 5.5c discussion-img_20190209_103202.jpg

  98. #3098
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    I have the same suspension setup on my 5.5....Float X2 and Ribbon Coil. I'm finding it unbalanced. THe Ribbon is so supple and the X2 seems to get overwhelmed by fast chunky descents. I was thinking of grabbing a Push 11-6 from someone selling their 5.5.

    Any feedback on your combo? Did you get it balanced?

    Thanks for any feedback!



    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Loved my large sb5.5 but wanted just a little longer front center. Just built an XL! MRP Ribbon coil on the front, also have the air version....love them both!
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  99. #3099
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    Quote Originally Posted by elcap23 View Post
    ....Float X2 and Ribbon Coil. I'm finding it unbalanced. THe Ribbon is so supple and the X2 seems to get overwhelmed by fast chunky descents. I

    Any feedback on your combo? Did you get it balanced?

    Thanks for any feedback!
    No. I've had the X2 on several bikes and love it. Yeti does recommend running the shock fairly open in the user guide. I have my HSC with only a little damping, the LSC with a little more damping than the HSC and the rebound on the fast side of medium. The Fox guide recommends much more compression for my weight but I used the Yeti guide and a shockwiz to get started. Try opening up your HSC and see how that feels and maybe a little faster rebound. I also bought a Hazzard for this bike just to experiment with.

  100. #3100
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    Thanks for that...I've run little to no HSC and LSC since I got the shock and even "shockwizzed" the thing...just never felt great. I run my rebound fairly fast as well. Definitely feels better that way, just not great. I think I'm going to give the 11-6 a try and see how it goes. The Hazzard with the Progressive spring also looks like it would be a great shock for this bike.


    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    No. I've had the X2 on several bikes and love it. Yeti does recommend running the shock fairly open in the user guide. I have my HSC with only a little damping, the LSC with a little more damping than the HSC and the rebound on the fast side of medium. The Fox guide recommends much more compression for my weight but I used the Yeti guide and a shockwiz to get started. Try opening up your HSC and see how that feels and maybe a little faster rebound. I also bought a Hazzard for this bike just to experiment with.

  101. #3101
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    Quote Originally Posted by elcap23 View Post
    I think I'm going to give the 11-6 a try and see how it goes. The Hazzard with the Progressive spring also looks like it would be a great shock for this bike.
    Compared to my other bikes, I've always felt the sb5.5 was pretty forgiving. So if it feels harsh to you, maybe a coil will be better. And of course with a Push you're getting a very custom piece of hardware. My understanding in speaking with a Fox rep is that the dpx2 offers more progression than the x2 for this frame (i.e., it arguably is better suited for this rather linear frame). I've ridden it both ways and still prefer the x2, though the dpx2 felt good to me as well...just not quite as supportive. I think I'm still a fan of air over coil.

  102. #3102
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    Makes sense...the DPX2 has a smaller air can, so it would ramp up quicker. I'll keep my X2 for a bit and switch back if the 11-6 doesn't work out. I'm certainly not set on air or coil, just trying to maximize the fun factor on the 55. Also, I like to try new things and I think the 11-6 is a sweet piece of hardware. I'll provide an update on the 11-6 and Ribbon coil combo when I get some rides on it.


    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Compared to my other bikes, I've always felt the sb5.5 was pretty forgiving. So if it feels harsh to you, maybe a coil will be better. And of course with a Push you're getting a very custom piece of hardware. My understanding in speaking with a Fox rep is that the dpx2 offers more progression than the x2 for this frame (i.e., it arguably is better suited for this rather linear frame). I've ridden it both ways and still prefer the x2, though the dpx2 felt good to me as well...just not quite as supportive. I think I'm still a fan of air over coil.

  103. #3103
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    Factory dhx2 on mine. Way faster than DPS on steep bumpy trails, less popy than the air for sure. Just like you would think massive traction at speed. Where air wants to float and skip, the coil on this bike just gobles stuff up. Much easier to go fast, playful? Not as much.

  104. #3104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ob917 View Post
    Just like you would think massive traction at speed. Where air wants to float and skip, the coil on this bike just gobles stuff up.
    Indeed. I beat my personal record on two very rocky downhills the first time I rode my XL sb5.5 with the Ribbon Coil fork last weekend. And since I wasn't trying to go fast, in fact I was just checking out my new ride, I could only attribute that do the effects of having a coil on really rough terrain. The larger bike also helped, that 3cm extra of front center makes a huge difference descending.

  105. #3105
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    Quote Originally Posted by elcap23 View Post
    Makes sense...the DPX2 has a smaller air can, so it would ramp up quicker. I'll keep my X2 for a bit and switch back if the 11-6 doesn't work out. I'm certainly not set on air or coil, just trying to maximize the fun factor on the 55. Also, I like to try new things and I think the 11-6 is a sweet piece of hardware. I'll provide an update on the 11-6 and Ribbon coil combo when I get some rides on it.
    My 55 was very forgiving, but not what I would ever call plush. I couldn't make the original Float X work in our bumpy environment and went with a 11.6. It absolutely made the bike much better. Still not super plush, but I stopped skipping around turns and pinging through rock gardens when at speed. I would definitely recommend trying one.

    A riding buddy also had one and worked with Fox to try to find a tune that would work better. Apparently Yeti specified a very stiff tune for the 55. I assume this was in an attempt to keep the bike from bottoming so easily. My buddy got a better ride, but also bottoms out pretty regularly, so it's a mixed bag.

    I picked up a DPX2 takeoff from another 55 when I was selling the bike to replace the Push and while it rode better than the Float X, the Push was still noticeably better. I've seen some good deals on 11.6s off of sb55 bikes, so you should be able to snag one. Bonus, you can then have it reconfigured if you move to a new bike.

  106. #3106
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrallen View Post
    My 55 was very forgiving, but not what I would ever call plush. I couldn't make the original Float X work in our bumpy environment and went with a 11.6. It absolutely made the bike much better. Still not super plush, but I stopped skipping around turns and pinging through rock gardens when at speed. I would definitely recommend trying one.

    A riding buddy also had one and worked with Fox to try to find a tune that would work better. Apparently Yeti specified a very stiff tune for the 55. I assume this was in an attempt to keep the bike from bottoming so easily. My buddy got a better ride, but also bottoms out pretty regularly, so it's a mixed bag.

    I picked up a DPX2 takeoff from another 55 when I was selling the bike to replace the Push and while it rode better than the Float X, the Push was still noticeably better. I've seen some good deals on 11.6s off of sb55 bikes, so you should be able to snag one. Bonus, you can then have it reconfigured if you move to a new bike.
    My SB5.5 is built up with the DPX2. The factory tune had the 0.2 volume spacer and I swapped out for the 0.6, but I'm not sure it that will give me enough of the progression I'm looking for. Do you or does anyone have any advice on volume spacer size to get a nice progressive instead of linear feeling DPX2 for the 55? I'm about 165 pounds with gear and right now the sag on the DPX2 with a 0.6 spacer and only 150psi in the shock is at 16mm, down from the recommended 17.5mm...

  107. #3107
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    Do you or does anyone have any advice on volume spacer size to get a nice progressive instead of linear feeling DPX2 for the 55? I'm about 165 pounds with gear and right now the sag on the DPX2 with a 0.6 spacer and only 150psi in the shock is at 16mm, down from the recommended 17.5mm...
    I ran the .8 spacer. But the bike is very linear and your best bet is to use volume spacers to ramp things up more. The newer yeti models did increase their progression. One thing that I wonder about is how you're only running 150psi at 165lbs. I run the same sag as you on my dpx2 and x2 (16mm) and run around 193psi with me at 175lbs. I would recheck your sag because as a general start you should be around your body weight +10 to get near your sag setting on the Fox shocks. I would think you should be around 175psi to hit your sag point.
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  108. #3108
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I ran the .8 spacer. But the bike is very linear and your best bet is to use volume spacers to ramp things up more. The newer yeti models did increase their progression. One thing that I wonder about is how you're only running 150psi at 165lbs. I run the same sag as you on my dpx2 and x2 (16mm) and run around 193psi with me at 175lbs. I would recheck your sag because as a general start you should be around your body weight +10 to get near your sag setting on the Fox shocks. I would think you should be around 175psi to hit your sag point.
    I agree. Something sounds off. Steamboat, did you cycle the shock as you inflated it at 50psi increments after changing your spacer to equalize the air chambers? Foggnm is also probably right that the only way you'll get a progressive feel is to go with larger spacers.

    First thing I would do is deflate the shock and re-inflate it cycling the shock 4-5 times for every 50psi you put in. Maybe you did this originally, but the shock didn't fully equalize for some reason. It's the easiest thing to check first. Leaving the pump attached as you do it, should so a decrease in pressure as the shock equalizes each time.

    After that, I would go up a spacer or two and try again. You should have two more larger options. If all that doesn't work, you'll have to look for a custom tune I would think.

  109. #3109
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrallen View Post
    I agree. Something sounds off. Steamboat, did you cycle the shock as you inflated it at 50psi increments after changing your spacer to equalize the air chambers? Foggnm is also probably right that the only way you'll get a progressive feel is to go with larger spacers.

    First thing I would do is deflate the shock and re-inflate it cycling the shock 4-5 times for every 50psi you put in. Maybe you did this originally, but the shock didn't fully equalize for some reason. It's the easiest thing to check first. Leaving the pump attached as you do it, should so a decrease in pressure as the shock equalizes each time.

    After that, I would go up a spacer or two and try again. You should have two more larger options. If all that doesn't work, you'll have to look for a custom tune I would think.
    I cycled the shock every 50 psi when I inflated it, but who knows maybe I missed something. I'll try the .8 spacer and see where I get pumping it up to 170psi ish. This is my first yeti, and they seem to recommended having the sag at 17.5mm to let the switch infinity link work best... I just don't want to have such a small sage (20% or so) that the switch infinity isn't really impacting the ride. I'll keep tinkering.

  110. #3110
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    Stroke length on the 55 is 57mm, so 17.5 is 30%. That's pretty standard. With you only getting to 16mm with a 150psi at 165lbs, I wonder if the shock is clogged up and not equalizing. Regardless, something sounds like it's wrong with your shock to me. I always had to run about 20psi over bodyweight to get the right sag and I think that is most other's experience.

    Did you buy it locally? Can you take it back to the shop and have it checked out?

  111. #3111
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    I see a lot of people saying coil shocks arenít great for the 5.5, with the exception of the push. Has anyone tried the mrp hazzard with progressive spring?

  112. #3112
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrallen View Post
    Stroke length on the 55 is 57mm, so 17.5 is 30%. That's pretty standard. With you only getting to 16mm with a 150psi at 165lbs, I wonder if the shock is clogged up and not equalizing. Regardless, something sounds like it's wrong with your shock to me. I always had to run about 20psi over bodyweight to get the right sag and I think that is most other's experience.

    Did you buy it locally? Can you take it back to the shop and have it checked out?
    I swapped out the 0.6 spacer for the 1.02 and inflated the shock up to my riding weight. I was extra diligent with equalizing the shocks air chambers every 40-50psi or so. It feels pretty good here so far with the increased progression. Sag looks good too. Thanks for the help.

  113. #3113
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteamboatSteamer View Post
    I swapped out the 0.6 spacer for the 1.02 and inflated the shock up to my riding weight. I was extra diligent with equalizing the shocks air chambers every 40-50psi or so. It feels pretty good here so far with the increased progression. Sag looks good too. Thanks for the help.
    That's great. Glad it worked out!

  114. #3114
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    I'm seriously considering a SB5.5, how does it do being hard on the pedals during sprints? I demoed a SB5 and it felt fast and efficient, so I'm hoping the SB5.5 will be the same. Any common problems with this model? Last Yeti I had was a SB66a and although I didn't have cracked rear triangles, I'd like to avoid those type of problems.

  115. #3115
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    I'm seriously considering a SB5.5, how does it do being hard on the pedals during sprints? I demoed a SB5 and it felt fast and efficient, so I'm hoping the SB5.5 will be the same. Any common problems with this model? Last Yeti I had was a SB66a and although I didn't have cracked rear triangles, I'd like to avoid those type of problems.
    I think it was the best all arounder of the long travel 29'ers of it's era. Pedals VERY well. Had mine for 2 years with no issues.

    Only issue I'm aware of was a paint/graphics issue with the 2017/2018 models on the rear triangles. The off color bands would rub off.

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  116. #3116
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    I'm seriously considering a SB5.5, how does it do being hard on the pedals during sprints? I demoed a SB5 and it felt fast and efficient, so I'm hoping the SB5.5 will be the same. Any common problems with this model? Last Yeti I had was a SB66a and although I didn't have cracked rear triangles, I'd like to avoid those type of problems.
    I have a large (for sale if you're interested) and XL sb5.5, both have been problem free. The stiffness when pedaling is one of the things I love the most. I had a SC HT LT and Pivot mach5.5 before this bike and though I liked both, they never had the stiffness when pedaling (while still having good small bump performance). The switch infinity is no gimmick. The sb5.5 climbs technical stuff well and descends great. It is rare for me to have a ride with less than 2000ft climbing so I need a bike that does both up and down well. A couple things to be aware of...the ST angle is very slack, the ST is quite long, the headset is integrated but still requires cups pressed in, the frame runs on the short side (my XL is roughly the same size as the medium sb150), the frame only has a 5 year warranty (which is plenty to me and should cover your concern), the internal routing is kind of a PITA but does its job. Just as a testament to how fast this bike is, I shed 15+% off my ride times with this frame. For me at least this is a great all around bike which can be tailored to trail riding or park riding depending on your suspension choice. Oh, and I haven't found the under tube water bottle to be a big deal. I usually stop 30 second to drink anyway rather than take small sips all the time while riding. Oh, I did find my black frame scratched pretty easy....but it is a bike so I could care less.

  117. #3117
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    I think it was the best all arounder of the long travel 29'ers of it's era. Pedals VERY well. Had mine for 2 years with no issues.

    Only issue I'm aware of was a paint/graphics issue with the 2017/2018 models on the rear triangles. The off color bands would rub off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    I have a large (for sale if you're interested) and XL sb5.5, both have been problem free. The stiffness when pedaling is one of the things I love the most. I had a SC HT LT and Pivot mach5.5 before this bike and though I liked both, they never had the stiffness when pedaling (while still having good small bump performance). The switch infinity is no gimmick. The sb5.5 climbs technical stuff well and descends great. It is rare for me to have a ride with less than 2000ft climbing so I need a bike that does both up and down well. A couple things to be aware of...the ST angle is very slack, the ST is quite long, the headset is integrated but still requires cups pressed in, the frame runs on the short side (my XL is roughly the same size as the medium sb150), the frame only has a 5 year warranty (which is plenty to me and should cover your concern), the internal routing is kind of a PITA but does its job. Just as a testament to how fast this bike is, I shed 15+% off my ride times with this frame. For me at least this is a great all around bike which can be tailored to trail riding or park riding depending on your suspension choice. Oh, and I haven't found the under tube water bottle to be a big deal. I usually stop 30 second to drink anyway rather than take small sips all the time while riding. Oh, I did find my black frame scratched pretty easy....but it is a bike so I could care less.
    Thanks for the info! What size dropper did the large frames come with? I'm 5'10" so I'm hoping to use at least a 150mm dropper.

  118. #3118
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    I had a OneUp 170 on mine as soon as they came out. I'm also 5'10 and rode a Large frame.

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  119. #3119
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    I'm seriously considering a SB5.5, how does it do being hard on the pedals during sprints? I demoed a SB5 and it felt fast and efficient, so I'm hoping the SB5.5 will be the same. Any common problems with this model? Last Yeti I had was a SB66a and although I didn't have cracked rear triangles, I'd like to avoid those type of problems.
    I found it pedals decently well, though not as firm when pedaling as many dw-link bikes. I've not ridden the SB5 so can't provide you with a direct comparison between the two. I'd be happy to ride the SB5.5 on all-day rides, though its good performance on a balance of attributes is probably its strength. I posted more detailed impressions at: https://www.dirtmerchantbikes.com/sp...i-sb5-5-review
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  120. #3120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
    I found it pedals decently well, though not as firm when pedaling as many dw-link bikes. I've not ridden the SB5 so can't provide you with a direct comparison between the two. I'd be happy to ride the SB5.5 on all-day rides, though its good performance on a balance of attributes is probably its strength. I posted more detailed impressions at: https://www.dirtmerchantbikes.com/sp...i-sb5-5-review
    This is awesome info. Speaking of dw-link bikes, I demoed a Trail 429 and Switchblade and one pedaled really well while the other was so-so. Overall I prefer the feel of a virtual pivot point-type suspension.

  121. #3121
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    This is awesome info. Speaking of dw-link bikes, I demoed a Trail 429 and Switchblade and one pedaled really well while the other was so-so. Overall I prefer the feel of a virtual pivot point-type suspension.
    I'm guessing that the Trail 429 pedaled really well, but the Switchblade was so-so? I've ridden the 429, but not the Switchblade.
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    This is awesome info. Speaking of dw-link bikes, I demoed a Trail 429 and Switchblade and one pedaled really well while the other was so-so. Overall I prefer the feel of a virtual pivot point-type suspension.
    I had a 5 and a 55. The 5 pedaled better, but the difference wasn't really noticeable. I also had a Trail 429 and the 55 pedaled as well as it did which was surprising to me given the difference in travel.

  123. #3123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
    I'm guessing that the Trail 429 pedaled really well, but the Switchblade was so-so? I've ridden the 429, but not the Switchblade.
    Yeah the 429 felt like a vpp bike, while the Switchblade had some pedal bob but would pop with ease with minimal pumping.

  124. #3124
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    Thanks for the info! What size dropper did the large frames come with? I'm 5'10" so I'm hoping to use at least a 150mm dropper.
    I purchased frames, so I can't answer your question. But you can see the ST length in the Geo table. Just compare it to what you have and you'll be able to figure out if a 150 will fit. I had a 150 on my large with 3 inches of post out and 1 inch out on my XL.

  125. #3125
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    I'm 5'10'' and went with a Medium Frame. I'm the outlier here, but I wanted something more playful and poppy. I fit a highline 170mm dropper on the M frame and it still has an inch remaining above the top of the seat tube. It is definitely on the shorter side of bikes for me, but the reach is nearly identical to the size L Pivot Mach Trail 429 that felt very balanced and I really enjoyed. It is super comfortable to pedal and when I drop the seat 170mm there is a lot of room for me to flick the bike off of the bonus lines. I'm more of an all mountain rider and frequent Fruita CO and Moab UT which have tones of playful lines, techy ups, and drops. It is great on those! I don't race enduro, so going downhill at mach speeds isn't the sole purpose of this bike for me. if I did I'd likely opt for the L frame. I did however on a chunky 21 second DH segment of a trail I'd ridden 60 or more times get a PR by 2 seconds on the Medium 5.5 compared to my 2015 large Trek Slash... so it isn't a slouch going fast downhill either.

  126. #3126
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    What Steamboat said!
    Iím 5í9Ē on a Med. I love this bike


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  127. #3127
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    Hi all,

    A few questions. I was close to upgrading to a dream build 150 awhile ago and have decided against it and doing a trip to canada which is all booked.

    Im currently riding a sb5.5 2018 frame. 2019 Fox fork, dpx2, hope breaks, cush core, praxis rims, dt swiss hubs and the eagle drive train.

    Ive been thinking about a few smaller upgrades.

    1. Dpx rear shock or coil or dhx2 coil
    2. Vorsprung smashpot
    3. wild enduro tires (im due for a new set)


    after this id like to get another year out of the bike - just wondering if its worth it or save the pennies for canada.

    obviously the bike is coming with us to canada.

    thanks in advance.

  128. #3128
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    I went through a similar decision making process with my 5.5 and decided on keeping it for another year and upgrading where needed. I went with a coil rear...but with the mindset that any upgrades could be swapped over to the next rig. I still think the 5.5 holds it own against many of the new bikes.



    Quote Originally Posted by onawave View Post
    Hi all,

    A few questions. I was close to upgrading to a dream build 150 awhile ago and have decided against it and doing a trip to canada which is all booked.

    Im currently riding a sb5.5 2018 frame. 2019 Fox fork, dpx2, hope breaks, cush core, praxis rims, dt swiss hubs and the eagle drive train.

    Ive been thinking about a few smaller upgrades.

    1. Dpx rear shock or coil or dhx2 coil
    2. Vorsprung smashpot
    3. wild enduro tires (im due for a new set)


    after this id like to get another year out of the bike - just wondering if its worth it or save the pennies for canada.

    obviously the bike is coming with us to canada.

    thanks in advance.

  129. #3129
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    just to add to this, i will most probably get the Vorsprung smashpot put into my forks. they are supposed to be incredible.

  130. #3130
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    I'm 5' 8" on a large. No room for anything more than 150mm dropper due to the seat tube.

    I went coil F&R. I notice the front coil a bit more (more active over small hits), but the rear coil was a noticeable improvement in rock gardens and for rebound control. I've been running the fox float X recently as my coil was in for a PM. The lock out on the fox float x is nice when riding smoother trails while waiting for the snow to melt. When our season starts soon, I'll go back to coil both ends.

    A solid trip to Canada sounds sweet. It's only my opinion, but I'd recommend a full/fun trip to Canada over an incremental bike upgrade.

  131. #3131
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    Quote Originally Posted by oxcartdriver View Post
    I'm 5' 8" on a large. No room for anything more than 150mm dropper due to the seat tube.

    I went coil F&R. I notice the front coil a bit more (more active over small hits), but the rear coil was a noticeable improvement in rock gardens and for rebound control. I've been running the fox float X recently as my coil was in for a PM. The lock out on the fox float x is nice when riding smoother trails while waiting for the snow to melt. When our season starts soon, I'll go back to coil both ends.

    A solid trip to Canada sounds sweet. It's only my opinion, but I'd recommend a full/fun trip to Canada over an incremental bike upgrade.
    yeah im think i will go with the vorpsung for sure. seems like a no brainer really.

    re canada, yeah its a solid 3 weeks with the kiddo's and wife. the bike should be mint for the trip.

  132. #3132
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    is anyone running a 170mm fork on a 5.5. if so how do you find it?

  133. #3133
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    Took the plunge and got a leftover 5.5 frame that I finished building up. I'm getting a crunching sounds coming from what it feels like the BB area, like something inside is turning and making a dull rubbing sounds every time the cranks turn under power. It only happens when pedaling and I even took off the chain and the noise doesn't show up when turning the cranks. It also won't make the noise when backpedaling, so I'm wondering WTH. The BB is new and I'm taking it to my lbs, but wondering if anyone has come across this.

  134. #3134
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    Some cheaper BB's barely went a couple weeks, and then only a couple days after a re-pack. One BB even scored the Crank spindle when it stopped, and I had the opportunity to buy a new crank spindle as well as BB bearings. Double the fun. The BB's in the frame have been good so far, based on my one frame and 5 BB's in 2.5 years (4 BB's in the first 6months).

    I have a RWC which has worked well about 2 years now (when installed correctly) and a Kogel on the shelf next in the que.

  135. #3135
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    Took the plunge and got a leftover 5.5 frame that I finished building up. I'm getting a crunching sounds coming from what it feels like the BB area, like something inside is turning and making a dull rubbing sounds every time the cranks turn under power. It only happens when pedaling and I even took off the chain and the noise doesn't show up when turning the cranks. It also won't make the noise when backpedaling, so I'm wondering WTH. The BB is new and I'm taking it to my lbs, but wondering if anyone has come across this.
    Check out your rear hub. The few times I've gotten crunching noise under the same conditions it turned out to be something related to my rear hub.

  136. #3136
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpress View Post
    Check out your rear hub. The few times I've gotten crunching noise under the same conditions it turned out to be something related to my rear hub.
    I'll check that out, thanks for the suggestion. The reason I say the BB is because it certainly sounds like it's coming from the BB and I can feel a very slight vibration through the cranks suggesting a thrashed bearing although the bearings are brand new.

  137. #3137
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    Took the plunge and got a leftover 5.5 frame that I finished building up. I'm getting a crunching sounds coming from what it feels like the BB area, like something inside is turning and making a dull rubbing sounds every time the cranks turn under power. It only happens when pedaling and I even took off the chain and the noise doesn't show up when turning the cranks. It also won't make the noise when backpedaling, so I'm wondering WTH. The BB is new and I'm taking it to my lbs, but wondering if anyone has come across this.
    Check pedal axle, chainring, chain (tight link?, in the correct orientation/direction?, routed correctly through derailleur?), cassette (is it tight?), and freehub. What drivetrain are you using and is it new or used?

  138. #3138
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Check pedal axle, chainring, chain (tight link?, in the correct orientation/direction?, routed correctly through derailleur?), cassette (is it tight?), and freehub. What drivetrain are you using and is it new or used?
    I'm using Sram 11 sp GX derailleur and shifter with a Box cassette. The drivetrain is used except I got a new chain, and I had been using it with no problems on a my YT Jeffsy the week before with no problems. The pedals came from the same bike and have had no problems.

  139. #3139
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    I'm using Sram 11 sp GX derailleur and shifter with a Box cassette. The drivetrain is used except I got a new chain, and I had been using it with no problems on a my YT Jeffsy the week before with no problems. The pedals came from the same bike and have had no problems.
    Youre saying everything on your bike is the same except the frame, chain, and bb. New chain on old cassette and derailleur can certainly make noises or skip gears. That would be my first guess. If your old chainring and cassette are heavily used (years or thousands of miles) a new chain is not a great idea because they all wear together.

    On another note, I have a lightly used (2months) gx eagle 12 drivetrain for if you want something different(I bought an xtr 12 kit).

  140. #3140
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    Youre saying everything on your bike is the same except the frame, chain, and bb. New chain on old cassette and derailleur can certainly make noises or skip gears. That would be my first guess. If your old chainring and cassette are heavily used (years or thousands of miles) a new chain is not a great idea because they all wear together.

    On another note, I have a lightly used (2months) gx eagle 12 drivetrain for if you want something different(I bought an xtr 12 kit).
    The cassette and chainring have less than 500 miles according to strava, so definitely not years of use. I'd take you up on the 12sp drivetrain but I run a hg freehub and don't want to have to get another freehub, cassette, chain, etc but thanks.

  141. #3141
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    The cassette and chainring have less than 500 miles according to strava, so definitely not years of use. I'd take you up on the 12sp drivetrain but I run a hg freehub and don't want to have to get another freehub, cassette, chain, etc but thanks.
    It is an NX eagle cassette, hg driver. No new freehub needed.

  142. #3142
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    It is an NX eagle cassette, hg driver. No new freehub needed.
    Good to know, I'll let you know after I get this noise thing figured out since I played with the bike a little more and I don't think it's the derailleur or cassette but I could be wrong.

  143. #3143
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    Well turns out the problem was the xx1 chain I bought is not compatible with the Wolftooth elliptical drop-stop chainring. The chain was too tight on the teeth and that was causing the weird grinding noise. My LBS put on a KMC chain and the noise is gone, and they briefly changed the chainring to a normal Raceface chainring and there was no noise. My LBS admitted it was a weird and rare situation, but glad they got it sorted out. I definitely wouldn't have thought it was the chain being the incompatible; i've used sram chains on other chainrings like Absolute Black on other bikes and had never run into something like this.

  144. #3144
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    Angleset and/or offset bushing/reducers

    Seeing as how there are some deals out there now on this bike, I'm considering picking one up, but given the somewhat dated geo, I would add a -2 degree works components headset to it and then use an offset bushing to raise the head (and seat!) angle back up a little... I'd end up with a sweet 140/160mm travel rig with about a 65 deg head angle and a 75 (or so) seat angle and a BB at about the stock height... anyone pushed the limited with a head angle adjustment going more than 1 degree? Am I drunk for even considering this?
    (Please, no comments about "shearing the head tube off" - the way I ride, it won't happen...)

  145. #3145
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    Quote Originally Posted by powderturns View Post
    Seeing as how there are some deals out there now on this bike, I'm considering picking one up, but given the somewhat dated geo
    I'd suggest just getting a bike with the geo you like rather than trying to tweak this one in to your ideal. It will pay off in the long run. If you get one of the newer Yeti's you'll have better resale value and the geo you're looking for. That said, I just rode 3 days in Moab on my sb5.5 on UPS/Porcupine, Ahab/Hymasa, and Mag 7 and felt no need for a slacker bike. Yes, the seat angle is an issue with this bike. I have my seat almost the way forward (33" inseam). If you do get a 5.5 consider sizing up. I had a large and ended up buying an XL and selling my large....even though I'm only 5'11. Personally, I wish Yeti would have just updated the sb5.5 as I feel 140/160 is pretty ideal for an all-rounder. Other than the seat tube and lousy internal routing grommets it is an A+ bike in my book. I chose it over the newer models because I felt the new ones were too long to be enjoyable in tight technical terrain. I'd just caution you of trying to morph an older geo into a newer geo. You might save $1000 but you'll end up not saving anything when you go to sell the bike in a few years.

  146. #3146
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    New 5.5 owner here thanks to the discounts (thanks new geos!). This bike really blows me away despite the "slack" STA. And I only noticed it was slack since I demoed a SB130 and a Ripmo in the last couple weeks. After running it through a few parks I frequent I'm convinced it really is perfect for my riding.

    Question - three years from now when SB130 frames are discounted thanks to some new innovation, how practical is it to swap frames with the 5.5 or any other Yeti? I assume frame swapping is costly and impractical in general, but perhaps there's more compatibility than normal if it's within the same manufacturer? I've always been curious about building a bike and I'm wondering if a few years down the line it's a sane thing to do.

  147. #3147
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackandrew View Post
    New 5.5 owner here thanks to the discounts (thanks new geos!). This bike really blows me away despite the "slack" STA. And I only noticed it was slack since I demoed a SB130 and a Ripmo in the last couple weeks. After running it through a few parks I frequent I'm convinced it really is perfect for my riding.

    Question - three years from now when SB130 frames are discounted thanks to some new innovation, how practical is it to swap frames with the 5.5 or any other Yeti? I assume frame swapping is costly and impractical in general, but perhaps there's more compatibility than normal if it's within the same manufacturer? I've always been curious about building a bike and I'm wondering if a few years down the line it's a sane thing to do.
    Should be fairly easy with maybe only Fork offset to consider but even thats not that important. You could probably swap everything directly from the SB5.5 except the headset and you'd need to use a seat tube shim to make the 30.9" dropper fit correctly in the 31.6" SB130 frame.
    Yeti SB165
    Yeti SB150
    Yeti SB130 AXS
    Yeti SB100
    Yeti SB5.5
    Orbea Rallon
    Devinci Spartan
    Devinci Troy

  148. #3148
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    Oh, that does sound easier than I thought it would be.

  149. #3149
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackandrew View Post
    New 5.5 owner here thanks to the discounts (thanks new geos!). This bike really blows me away despite the "slack" STA. And I only noticed it was slack since I demoed a SB130 and a Ripmo in the last couple weeks. After running it through a few parks I frequent I'm convinced it really is perfect for my riding.

    Question - three years from now when SB130 frames are discounted thanks to some new innovation, how practical is it to swap frames with the 5.5 or any other Yeti? I assume frame swapping is costly and impractical in general, but perhaps there's more compatibility than normal if it's within the same manufacturer? I've always been curious about building a bike and I'm wondering if a few years down the line it's a sane thing to do.
    g'day my dude.

    i looked at doing this recently. i ride of pretty much tricked out 5.5 - and tried to understand how to move parts from that to a 150.

    after speaking to my local yeti dealer - its pretty much not worth it. fork offset etc et is all different. however it is possible.

    if you are thinking about keeping that bike for 3 years, just buy an entirely new 130 or 150 etc.

  150. #3150
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    Quote Originally Posted by onawave View Post
    g'day my dude.

    i looked at doing this recently. i ride of pretty much tricked out 5.5 - and tried to understand how to move parts from that to a 150.

    after speaking to my local yeti dealer - its pretty much not worth it. fork offset etc et is all different. however it is possible.

    if you are thinking about keeping that bike for 3 years, just buy an entirely new 130 or 150 etc.
    Thanks for the response - skinnybex mentioned the new offset as well. Are there any further complications you found? Unless Sb130 completes are super super discounted for some reason by then it kind of still seems worth it.

  151. #3151
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackandrew View Post
    Thanks for the response - skinnybex mentioned the new offset as well. Are there any further complications you found? Unless Sb130 completes are super super discounted for some reason by then it kind of still seems worth it.
    if your talking about the 130 or 150 in a few years, then they will see minor iterations which complement the bike even more. for example the slightly tweaked "lunch ride" model 130.

    if its 3 years between it would be a no brainer to buy a fully kitted out 130 so to speak instead of trying to take parts across. imho obvisouly.

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    If building a bike is what your after, my advice would be this:

    Keep the SB 5.5 - it is a killer all mountain bike. If you 3 years your over it, sell it and get a fully built up SB130 LR when they are discounted 35% or so... or maybe check out the Evil Offering deals at that time.

    Buy a sweet hardtail frame and start your build there. I built up a Kona Honzo Ti frame a few years ago for my first bike build and it was a super fun project. Threaded BB was nice to work on at home as well. It has been a great compliment for the SB 5.5 as well. Building a hardtail up from a frame gives you tons of options to cater to your riding (singlespeed, chainstay length with dropouts, fork length, even wheel size if you want to get crafty...). I've got options with this build to go aggressive AM style with a 140mm fork and SHR 2.4'' 29er tires... or more XC race with a fox 32 and 2.2'' ikons... or a bike packing rig with 27.5+ tires... lots of options to play with.

    Anyway, I'm enjoying both bikes! Cheers.

  153. #3153
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    Keeping my sb5.5 another year so I would like to swap out the Float X for either a DPX2 or a X2. Found a new take off DPX2 from a sb5.5 or for around $100 more can get a X2. Is the X2 worth the extra coin do you think? Leaning towards the DPX2 as a fair amount of my riding is single track.

  154. #3154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev440800 View Post
    Keeping my sb5.5 another year so I would like to swap out the Float X for either a DPX2 or a X2. Found a new take off DPX2 from a sb5.5 or for around $100 more can get a X2. Is the X2 worth the extra coin do you think? Leaning towards the DPX2 as a fair amount of my riding is single track.
    I'd check out the MRP Hazard Coil. That is moveable to an SB130 should you go that route in a year or two.
    2019 Yeti SB130 LR XL
    2018 YT Capra CF Pro 29er XXL - sold
    2016 Yeti SB5.5c XL - sold

  155. #3155
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    Just a heads up I fit a 175 Fox Transfer into my large 5.5 no problem.

  156. #3156
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    Quote Originally Posted by tilltheend View Post
    Just a heads up I fit a 175 Fox Transfer into my large 5.5 no problem.
    Could you insert it to max depth?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  157. #3157
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    Yes, itís bottomed out right now.

  158. #3158
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    Just a quick note on the 5.5 versus the 150. I bought a new SB150 this year and absolutely love it. As you have all heard, it is incredibly composed and likes to go fast. I still have my 5.5 and it has been sitting in the garage as I raced the first few enduros on the 150 this year. Yesterday I decided to take the 5.5 on a ride to see if the difference was noticeable. While I couldnít monster truck every rock garden the same way as I would on the 150, I did find it to be stable on the downs and incredibly playful. The grip2 on the 150 is noticeably better but damn, the 5.5 is a fun bike and still rips.




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  159. #3159
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeSkiDrink View Post
    Just a quick note on the 5.5 versus the 150. I bought a new SB150 this year and absolutely love it. As you have all heard, it is incredibly composed and likes to go fast.
    I have both as well and would not give up my 5.5 as my everyday bike. It is just too good an all mountain bike. It will be ridden until it breaks or at least for another few years.

  160. #3160
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    Can someone fill me in on the basics of fitting a coil shock to my 5.5?

    What's the size I'm looking for to fit to the 5.5?
    Who do you go through to fit one to your bike? Online retailer? LBS? Worldwidecyclery seem to have many of them in the same place.
    What's the range like in terms of quality/value vs price? The Push ElevenSix has been recommended but I'm not sure a coil is worth $1200 for me. What's a good $$ range to aim for?
    For those who've tried, how do ya'll like it?

    Thanks!

  161. #3161
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackandrew View Post
    Can someone fill me in on the basics of fitting a coil shock to my 5.5?

    What's the size I'm looking for to fit to the 5.5?
    Who do you go through to fit one to your bike? Online retailer? LBS? Worldwidecyclery seem to have many of them in the same place.
    What's the range like in terms of quality/value vs price? The Push ElevenSix has been recommended but I'm not sure a coil is worth $1200 for me. What's a good $$ range to aim for?
    For those who've tried, how do ya'll like it?

    Thanks!
    Shock size is the same as stock shock. You can usually reuse shock bushings most of the time. Easier if your going to a dhx2.

    Fox dhx2 is my recommendation. You will want to figure out coil spring weight. You can use an online calculator to ball park it but you will probably need a heavier spring than what's recommended...

    This is due to the 55 SI being linear and a coil is linear.

    Dm me if you need more help...

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  162. #3162
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackandrew View Post
    Can someone fill me in on the basics of fitting a coil shock to my 5.5?

    What's the size I'm looking for to fit to the 5.5?
    Who do you go through to fit one to your bike? Online retailer? LBS? Worldwidecyclery seem to have many of them in the same place.
    What's the range like in terms of quality/value vs price? The Push ElevenSix has been recommended but I'm not sure a coil is worth $1200 for me. What's a good $$ range to aim for?
    For those who've tried, how do ya'll like it?

    Thanks!
    according to yeti (as far as i know) - the coils arent supposed to be too good in the 5.5's. that however has not stopped people from running them.

    what are you running now?

    the push coil, while it is the best coil on the market, will most likely be too much coil for that bike.

    i have just recently out a deposit down on a new 150 - and after doing a lot of reading - its the first yeti bike that i feel more comfortable putting a coil into.

  163. #3163
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    This is true and not true. Sb55 SI has a very linear suspension curve developed around a progressive airshock. This is why I recommend a heavier spring (I ran a coil for many years on my gen2 SI bike).

    Sb130/150 leverage curve is more progressive and hence gets the ok to run a linear coil....

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  164. #3164
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    Quote Originally Posted by onawave View Post
    according to yeti (as far as i know) - the coils arent supposed to be too good in the 5.5's. that however has not stopped people from running them.

    what are you running now?

    the push coil, while it is the best coil on the market, will most likely be too much coil for that bike.

    i have just recently out a deposit down on a new 150 - and after doing a lot of reading - its the first yeti bike that i feel more comfortable putting a coil into.
    I'm currently running the factory DPX2.

    Congrats on the SB150, that is certainly my dream bike!

  165. #3165
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackandrew View Post
    I'm currently running the factory DPX2.

    Congrats on the SB150, that is certainly my dream bike!
    if i were you - and you are after more "plushness" or traction - i would look into the vorsprung smashpot (depending on what forks you are running)

    i have a 5.5 with the dpx2 and recently upgraded to the smashpot in my forks. it was night and day difference.

    infact so good im getting it in the forks for my 150.

    yes - the 150 is my dream bike build for sure.

  166. #3166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dagonger View Post
    Shock size is the same as stock shock. You can usually reuse shock bushings most of the time. Easier if your going to a dhx2.

    Fox dhx2 is my recommendation. You will want to figure out coil spring weight. You can use an online calculator to ball park it but you will probably need a heavier spring than what's recommended...

    This is due to the 55 SI being linear and a coil is linear.

    Dm me if you need more help...

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
    I was thinking the DHX2 as well, but not sure if there's better value out there. Between Rockshox, Fox and Push etc... are there really some that are more suited for the 5.5 than others or is it all preference? Thanks!

  167. #3167
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackandrew View Post
    I was thinking the DHX2 as well, but not sure if there's better value out there. Between Rockshox, Fox and Push etc... are there really some that are more suited for the 5.5 than others or is it all preference? Thanks!
    I have.always used dhx2 with good results. I never even used the climb switch and didnt see the need for 2 different tunes.
    They are cheaper new and also even.cheaper used than 116. Once I had mine dialed, it was set and forget.

    Push 116 benefits are..basically custom tune for bike,rider, and types of trails. You also basically get 2 types of tunes, or 2 different so to speak shocks at the flip of a switch. You can also move that shock to another bike in the future, this future proofing it. You would have to send back to push to retune,service and change physical dimensions if needed...all at additional.costs of course.

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  168. #3168
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    Hello, i may have found a good deal on a size medium 5.5. The problem is that i'm 5'10'' (179-180 cm) so at the end of the size.
    I'm used to longer bikes, i have 2 size L (process 111, knolly warden) that have reach 40mm longer than a M 5.5.

    What do you think? Anyone with my height was on a medium frame ?
    Consider that i'm not looking for a new enduro bike, i will use the warden for gnarly trails. I will mount the yeti for pedalling and trail riding, i just want a agile bike that pedals well, i'm not looking for the best stability.

  169. #3169
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    Quote Originally Posted by davideb87 View Post
    Hello, i may have found a good deal on a size medium 5.5. The problem is that i'm 5'10'' (179-180 cm) so at the end of the size.
    I'm used to longer bikes, i have 2 size L (process 111, knolly warden) that have reach 40mm longer than a M 5.5.

    What do you think? .
    It will be too small for you. I had a large and sized up to XL and I'm 511. I can't imagine riding a medium at 510.

  170. #3170
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    It will be too small for you. I had a large and sized up to XL and I'm 511. I can't imagine riding a medium at 510.
    Thank you i will pass

  171. #3171
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    Quote Originally Posted by davideb87 View Post
    Hello, i may have found a good deal on a size medium 5.5. The problem is that i'm 5'10'' (179-180 cm) so at the end of the size.
    I'm used to longer bikes, i have 2 size L (process 111, knolly warden) that have reach 40mm longer than a M 5.5.

    What do you think? Anyone with my height was on a medium frame ?
    Consider that i'm not looking for a new enduro bike, i will use the warden for gnarly trails. I will mount the yeti for pedalling and trail riding, i just want a agile bike that pedals well, i'm not looking for the best stability.
    I'm 5'10 and pedal a medium (5+ 29'er) but prefer a smaller more flickable bike. I like to hit every little jib I can find and didn't like the feeling of the larger bike for that kind of riding. If I were doing park laps I think a large would be better.

  172. #3172
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    I'm 5'10 and ride a medium SB 5.5. I downsized from a L Trek Slash 9.8 and the M SB 5.5 is better in every way. Faster down, faster up, better on slow speed tech, and more flickable with the shorter reach. If you are going for more of a long leg trail bike, I would seriously recommend this bike with a 50mm stem, 170 mm dropper (or more). As it is smaller than my last bike, I do have to be more active when riding, shifting weight forward, back, ect... but isn't that what someone looking for in a playful bike?

    One last thing - the shorter reach allows me to be seated a bit more upright, which is more comfortable for longer days in the saddle (40 miles plus) in the CO mountains where I live.

    Cheers -

  173. #3173
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    Definitely go with a 170 dropper if you're 5'10 and want to go medium. I run a 150 and want a 170

  174. #3174
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    Just bought a 165 frame so I have a 16í, medium 5.5c, xtr/xt/full fox factory (including x2 and kashima dropper) with i9 305 wheels /turquoise hubs, for sale. I was first and only owner. I have it for 4200 on pinkbike, but will sell less to a member in need on here. PM if interested.

  175. #3175
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    Quote Originally Posted by yetipowdermaniac View Post
    Just bought a 165 frame so I have a 16í, medium 5.5c, xtr/xt/full fox factory (including x2 and kashima dropper) with i9 305 wheels /turquoise hubs, for sale. I was first and only owner. I have it for 4200 on pinkbike, but will sell less to a member in need on here. PM if interested.
    Would you sell only the frame?

  176. #3176
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    Thank you guys for your help

  177. #3177
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    Quote Originally Posted by davideb87 View Post
    Would you sell only the frame?
    Possibly, but Iím on an extended work trip via car carrying the bike in tow so Iím just wondering if that would create a logistical/space nightmare. Hmmm.

  178. #3178
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    Hey guys, I just picked up a nearly new 5.5 frame to replace a 4.5 frame I've been riding recently. I need to get a fork and plan to get a Fox 36, 160mm, 51 offset according to specs, that is unless there's a compelling reason to go 150mm, or 44 offset. I've looked through this thread a bit and didn't see too much talk on the subject, but thought I'd ask guys with experience on the bike. Any strong opinions or consensus to go with an alternative to the stock fork specs? Thanks!

  179. #3179
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlloyd007 View Post
    unless there's a compelling reason to go 150mm, or 44 offset. I've looked through this thread a bit and didn't see too much talk on the subject, but thought I'd ask guys with experience on the bike. Any strong opinions or consensus to go with an alternative to the stock fork specs? Thanks!
    There's not a compelling reason. And you can can get a 2019 fox 36 factory deeply discounted right now online $850ish. Also a shorter offset on a bike with a very modest front center will only make it feel like you'll be getting pitched over the bars more. I'll tell you this, I've ridden my sb150 with 41 offset, 46 offset, and 51 offset (current setup). The 46 and 51 felt good but the 41 felt like crap. I think most honest bike designers and fork manufacturers will tell you the current craze is 90% marketing. Stick with the 160mm 51 offset. It is a fantastic bike and I think if you go shorter on the offset, I think you'll actually make the bike feel worse on technical descents. And just to give perspective...how many DH bikes do you see with short offsets? You think those guys wouldn't use it if there was performance to gain?IMHO

  180. #3180
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlloyd007 View Post
    Hey guys, I just picked up a nearly new 5.5 frame to replace a 4.5 frame I've been riding recently. I need to get a fork and plan to get a Fox 36, 160mm, 51 offset according to specs, that is unless there's a compelling reason to go 150mm, or 44 offset. I've looked through this thread a bit and didn't see too much talk on the subject, but thought I'd ask guys with experience on the bike. Any strong opinions or consensus to go with an alternative to the stock fork specs? Thanks!
    Most of the modern fox 36s can be easily modified to have 150, 160, or 170mm of travel, provided you buy the appropriate air shaft part (only $40).

    Using a 170mm air shaft I bumped my fork to 170mm for a couple months to make it more capable at bike parks. Awesome for DH but didn't like what it did to the bike geo for other applications. I then reinstalled the 160mm air spring and have learned to respect Yeti's intended geo lol

    Maybe the travel range is larger these days (140mm to 180mm)?. So, I suggest getting the 160, experiment with the 150 by buying an air shaft, realize messing with the bike geo is a bad idea, then go back to 160 Some stock fox 36s aren't compatible with this mod so just make sure the one you're getting can.

  181. #3181
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    Good comments guys- thanks. To both your points, I can't even count the times I've messed with angle headsets, offset bushings, different travel forks and initially liked the change, but eventually went back to the spec settings. 160mm and 51 it is.

  182. #3182
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    I first used a 46mm offset Pike on my 5.5 and the turning response was a little too quick to where it felt twitchy. I switched to a 36 with a 51mm offset and the bike felt more balanced, but it's a personal preference IMO. I think the super short offset is better with the very long top tube of current bikes but not the 5.5 since it's not really a 'long' bike.

  183. #3183
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    After 15 months and only a couple hundo shy of 2k miles on dirt, I'll be moving on from my 5.5. Clarice is hands down the best and funnest bike I've owned, and though I haven't owned as many bikes as some folks I've had a few.



    She spent most of her time with me in the bone-stock X01 build configuration. The only change I've made was a few weeks ago when I scored a great deal on a 44mm offset Fox 36 Factory Grip2 170mm travel fork... a change that didn't net a ton of steering/handling difference to me, a little more responsive to small steering input but manageable. The new fork offers much improved traction and bump absorption a great deal over the 2018 Fit4 that came on the bike. At 6'1-5/8" I sized up to an XL, pushed the saddle all the way forward, and slammed the bars. She rides oh-so-nice and I am hopeful my next lady will treat me as well as Clarice. I've got a 2019 SB150 in size Large on the way... we'll see.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





    Punch it, Chewie.

  184. #3184
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    I've got a 2019 SB150 in size Large on the way... we'll see.
    The 5.5 is a special bike (I had an XL too and have an L 150). You will love the 150, especially at your height. It climbs just as well (in some ways I could argue better) but descends steep stuff so well. Interesting that you put a 44 offset on the 5.5 which has a short front center already. I'm not on the short offset bandwagon and feel that it actually makes handling more sketchy at high speeds (especially when I've run 41 and 42 offset forks). But that 44 offset will go great with your 150. For me the sweet spot is 46 offset, which is my Lyrik with a different crown-steerer unit.

    At first the sb150 felt kinda sluggish to me and I guess I could say riding slow....it is. But it just makes me push it harder and ride faster. I've also had people comment it maybe is "too much bike" in many situations but my response to that is it is more the rider than the terrain that it is too much for. If you really like to go for it (as your pic suggests) the Yeti is not too much bike. And if you live in a rocky part of the country, it certainly is not too much bike. And there's always the option to run lighter tires/wheels if you want to treat it more like a trail bike or are concerned about your climbing times.

  185. #3185
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggnm View Post
    The 5.5 is a special bike (I had an XL too and have an L 150). You will love the 150, especially at your height. It climbs just as well (in some ways I could argue better) but descends steep stuff so well. Interesting that you put a 44 offset on the 5.5 which has a short front center already. I'm not on the short offset bandwagon and feel that it actually makes handling more sketchy at high speeds (especially when I've run 41 and 42 offset forks). But that 44 offset will go great with your 150. For me the sweet spot is 46 offset, which is my Lyrik with a different crown-steerer unit.

    At first the sb150 felt kinda sluggish to me and I guess I could say riding slow....it is. But it just makes me push it harder and ride faster. I've also had people comment it maybe is "too much bike" in many situations but my response to that is it is more the rider than the terrain that it is too much for. If you really like to go for it (as your pic suggests) the Yeti is not too much bike. And if you live in a rocky part of the country, it certainly is not too much bike. And there's always the option to run lighter tires/wheels if you want to treat it more like a trail bike or are concerned about your climbing times.
    Yeah the 44mm offset fork was just an experiment... the stock 160 travel 51mm offset fork will go back on when I sell it. So far, the 150 s treating me really well... I might put some more details in an appropriate thread. I'm no stranger to 150mm travel bikes, having owned both a 66c and a 6 previous to the 5.5. I'm not one to subscribe to a bike being "too much bike" really... and I do live somewhere there's rocks.
    The older I get, the faster I was.





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  186. #3186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Full Trucker View Post
    I might put some more details in an appropriate thread. I'm no stranger to 150mm travel bikes, having owned both a 66c and a 6 previous to the 5.5. I'm not one to subscribe to a bike being "too much bike" really... and I do live somewhere there's rocks.
    How about a pic of your new bike? Glad to hear you're rolling!

  187. #3187
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    So I've started having creaking woes on my 5.5. I've only put about 250 miles on it so far, so it seems a bit premature to start having creaking. Other than the pressfit BB, anyone had either of the suspension links creak?

  188. #3188
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    My pivot points needed to be tightened after about 500 miles. Could be the pedals too...

  189. #3189
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    I'll see if that helps since it does sound like it's in suspension linkage

  190. #3190
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    Let us know! I had a creak - greased all pivot points and it didn't help. Then it rained and it mysteriously went away. Also pretty sure it wasn't any of the other usual suspects. I wondered if maybe the switch infinity needed to be serviced since I have not done that yet...

  191. #3191
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    I think the idea of a slacker head angle is good... If you need more wheelbase it is a good way to increase it.
    I am thinking of getting a friend's 5.5 and tweak it.
    Either -1.5, -2 degrees slacker and then correct with offset bushings to raise the bb and steepen the seat angle.
    The wheelbase of an xl will be 1238-1243 respectively, which is spot on for me being 6"1
    A fox x2 with loads of spacers in and we should be good.
    The stack will be lower which is good since it is way to high.

    Ideas?

    Some people said buy a 150, yes but you can save 3k for an used 5.5 vs a new 150.

  192. #3192
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickyvic View Post
    I think the idea of a slacker head angle is good... If you need more wheelbase it is a good way to increase it.
    I am thinking of getting a friend's 5.5 and tweak it.
    Either -1.5, -2 degrees slacker and then correct with offset bushings to raise the bb and steepen the seat angle.
    The wheelbase of an xl will be 1238-1243 respectively, which is spot on for me being 6"1
    A fox x2 with loads of spacers in and we should be good.
    The stack will be lower which is good since it is way to high.

    Ideas?

    Some people said buy a 150, yes but you can save 3k for an used 5.5 vs a new 150.
    I think if you can live with a relatively slack (by modern standards) seat angle, it would be viable... 3k buys a lot of forks/tires/brakes/road trips, etc...

  193. #3193
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    Quote Originally Posted by powderturns View Post
    I think if you can live with a relatively slack (by modern standards) seat angle, it would be viable... 3k buys a lot of forks/tires/brakes/road trips, etc...
    I think it does ok for pedaling. Only thing is that it is difficult to source an XL used, my friend's is L and way too short reach I am 6"1
    Any idea on sizing?

  194. #3194
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickyvic View Post
    I think it does ok for pedaling. Only thing is that it is difficult to source an XL used, my friend's is L and way too short reach I am 6"1
    Any idea on sizing?
    Ya man, Iím 6í1 and rode a L 5.5 for a year and a half. It was way too small. I was all bunched up on the descents with the short reach. My hips would be super tight for a couple days after riding from being stuck in one riding position. Now Iím on a bike with a 500mm reach and am way happier. Lots of room to move around on the bike. Huge difference!

  195. #3195
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    97
    Hi there. I read through the bulk of this thread but I still have a question. I'm looking at buying a used 2017 5.5 and am wanting to know if there were any changes to the frame from then until it was discontinued. I don't know what month of 2017, just that it is the turq version with the XO1 build
    I used to be fast....sort of..........kinda

  196. #3196
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    43
    I don't believe there are any changes to the frame / geometry. Build kits may be different from year to year.

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