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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    2.5 WT aggressor on 30mm internal
    Didnt notice flex or rub.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
    If you didnít notice rubbing you didnít look! Come on.... enough with the diehard yeti can do no wrong BS. I had the same tire on my bike and it was rubbing riding in circles in a paved parking lot and looked just like that! If you are honestly saying that doesnít rub you must work for yeti or be a yeti dealer and youíre lying to everyone here.
    Denver, CO

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeti575inCA View Post
    2.5 WT aggressor on 30mm internal
    Didnt notice flex or rub. .

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
    If you are a somewhat aggressive rider there is a good chance you will get that tire to rub or in the best case you will get rocks to chew up the inside of your chainstay. Technically you can run a 2.5 on this bike but there is not enough safe clearance for the flex the rear wheel has or to account for rocks / mud that will collect in there over time.

    Now that I have built up several of these bikes and I am personally on my second I have a few observations. If the linkage does not come loose and is not overly flexy from the start a 2.3 / 2.4 tire on a 30mm rim fits just fine. You have to regularly check the linkage on these bikes as they can and sometimes do come loose over time if you do not service them out of the box. I suggest going thru the linkage right away and making sure it's all loctite and tq to spec before you ride it. The shock bushing gap has been on every bike I have built but was easily fixed "without help from Yeti". Some of these bikes have had more flex than others out of the box, im unsure why. My first SB150 had a little more flex than my current one and it also had two linkage bolts that worked loose after about 5-10 rides. Im looking forward to how long this one holds up now that I know it was all assembled correctly. Customer support, quality control and public relations from Yeti leaves a lot to be desired.

    All that being said the bikes when they are working as intended are very good. The bike is super fast, quiet and holds speed really well and rides lighter than it's actual weight. The geo is solid and it climbs good for a big bike. I do wish the bike could safely run a 2.5 in the rear. Despite people who think 2.5 is too much tire in the rear there are many who prefer running a higher volume tire at lower pressure as the grip and rollover resistance in a lot of conditions has it's advantages. Now that I have spent a few weeks on my Ransom running 2.6 front and rear I find it to be a great option for the loose, dry and rocky conditions of my local trails. I can't say that I would always run it but having the ability to run up to a 2.6 rear whenever I want and without worry is a nice option. As I have stated before I truly believe the SB150 should be marketed as a up to 2.4 tire in the rear.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    If you didnít notice rubbing you didnít look! Come on.... enough with the diehard yeti can do no wrong BS. I had the same tire on my bike and it was rubbing riding in circles in a paved parking lot and looked just like that! If you are honestly saying that doesnít rub you must work for yeti or be a yeti dealer and youíre lying to everyone here.
    I'm not lieing. I am a Yeti fan. All I am stating is what my experience was with 1 of the first sb150 demo from a local LBS

    Streetdoctor... I'm a close friend with Chance and I called him right after my demo. He can vouch for my reputation and observation..

    All I did is post pics of the bike I demo'd and gave my feedback from my ride. I will also say my demo was before the whole topic came up...

    I have had slight flex in my other Yetis.

    2015 nonboost sb6c, 35 iw with 2.4 dhr2. Chainstays showed evidence of rub but during my rides I never noticed it. I owned this bike for 3 years and it was my only Yeti for most of that time...

    Just stating my own experience.... take it or leave it.

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  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    If you didnít notice rubbing you didnít look! Come on.... enough with the diehard yeti can do no wrong BS. I had the same tire on my bike and it was rubbing riding in circles in a paved parking lot and looked just like that! If you are honestly saying that doesnít rub you must work for yeti or be a yeti dealer and youíre lying to everyone here.
    Wheels, spoke tension, rider weight and style are a huge variable in this rubbing debate. It's a big factor why people are having mixed experiences. Streetdoctor Just because you have had one experience doesn't mean that everyone else will. Raging at people who don't have the same outcome as you, and are balancing the debate with their experiences is really very unhelpful. I say that as a prospective buyer trying to work out whether or not I should pull the trigger.

    - I have 3 sets of wheels in my garage currently -

    ethirteen trs race carbons - stiff as anything - really hard to get them to flex - bet they wouldn't rub

    race face affect - stiffish alu - bit of flex - middle of the road - might rub

    mavic cross max enduro - ride great - supper supple but loads of lateral flex. - deffo would rub

    In the world of DH racing spoke tension is a massive tool that mechanics use to fine tune ride. As important as suspension. Less tension & thus more rim movement will give a more supple tracked ride, more tension will ping you along. etc etc.

    It looks to me that Yeti have tried to package short chain stays, chainring clearance, tyre clearance and some flex. Potentially with some combinations of wheels, spoke tension and tyres it's really not working.

    Hear Peter Zawisowski talking about the packaging challenges here
    https://soundcloud.com/mtbpodcast/ep...ch-zawistowski

    I wish they had made the stays 5mm longer and taken a bit of the tracking flex out as I think this debate wouldn't be happening if that was the case.

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karve View Post
    Wheels, spoke tension, rider weight and style are a huge variable in this rubbing debate. It's a big factor why people are having mixed experiences. Streetdoctor Just because you have had one experience doesn't mean that everyone else will. Raging at people who don't have the same outcome as you, and are balancing the debate with their experiences is really very unhelpful. I say that as a prospective buyer trying to work out whether or not I should pull the trigger.

    - I have 3 sets of wheels in my garage currently -

    ethirteen trs race carbons - stiff as anything - really hard to get them to flex - bet they wouldn't rub

    race face affect - stiffish alu - bit of flex - middle of the road - might rub

    mavic cross max enduro - ride great - supper supple but loads of lateral flex. - deffo would rub

    In the world of DH racing spoke tension is a massive tool that mechanics use to fine tune ride. As important as suspension. Less tension & thus more rim movement will give a more supple tracked ride, more tension will ping you along. etc etc.

    It looks to me that Yeti have tried to package short chain stays, chainring clearance, tyre clearance and some flex. Potentially with some combinations of wheels, spoke tension and tyres it's really not working.

    Hear Peter Zawisowski talking about the packaging challenges here
    https://soundcloud.com/mtbpodcast/ep...ch-zawistowski

    I wish they had made the stays 5mm longer and taken a bit of the tracking flex out as I think this debate wouldn't be happening if that was the case.
    Yeah, but 5mm longer CS doesn't sell as well I am a fan of longer CS on larger sizes. But again, that would get too expensive to have different rear triangles for different sizes.

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  6. #406
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    thank you for that info...I am waiting a 150 to arrive soon and I will check everything as you suggest...btw do you happen to know the exact front bushings size needed for the shock?cheers!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Rom3n View Post
    If you are a somewhat aggressive rider there is a good chance you will get that tire to rub or in the best case you will get rocks to chew up the inside of your chainstay. Technically you can run a 2.5 on this bike but there is not enough safe clearance for the flex the rear wheel has or to account for rocks / mud that will collect in there over time.

    Now that I have built up several of these bikes and I am personally on my second I have a few observations. If the linkage does not come loose and is not overly flexy from the start a 2.3 / 2.4 tire on a 30mm rim fits just fine. You have to regularly check the linkage on these bikes as they can and sometimes do come loose over time if you do not service them out of the box. I suggest going thru the linkage right away and making sure it's all loctite and tq to spec before you ride it. The shock bushing gap has been on every bike I have built but was easily fixed "without help from Yeti". Some of these bikes have had more flex than others out of the box, im unsure why. My first SB150 had a little more flex than my current one and it also had two linkage bolts that worked loose after about 5-10 rides. Im looking forward to how long this one holds up now that I know it was all assembled correctly. Customer support, quality control and public relations from Yeti leaves a lot to be desired.

    All that being said the bikes when they are working as intended are very good. The bike is super fast, quiet and holds speed really well and rides lighter than it's actual weight. The geo is solid and it climbs good for a big bike. I do wish the bike could safely run a 2.5 in the rear. Despite people who think 2.5 is too much tire in the rear there are many who prefer running a higher volume tire at lower pressure as the grip and rollover resistance in a lot of conditions has it's advantages. Now that I have spent a few weeks on my Ransom running 2.6 front and rear I find it to be a great option for the loose, dry and rocky conditions of my local trails. I can't say that I would always run it but having the ability to run up to a 2.6 rear whenever I want and without worry is a nice option. As I have stated before I truly believe the SB150 should be marketed as a up to 2.4 tire in the rear.

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karve View Post
    Wheels, spoke tension, rider weight and style are a huge variable in this rubbing debate. It's a big factor why people are having mixed experiences. Streetdoctor Just because you have had one experience doesn't mean that everyone else will. Raging at people who don't have the same outcome as you, and are balancing the debate with their experiences is really very unhelpful. I say that as a prospective buyer trying to work out whether or not I should pull the trigger.

    - I have 3 sets of wheels in my garage currently -

    ethirteen trs race carbons - stiff as anything - really hard to get them to flex - bet they wouldn't rub

    race face affect - stiffish alu - bit of flex - middle of the road - might rub

    mavic cross max enduro - ride great - supper supple but loads of lateral flex. - deffo would rub

    In the world of DH racing spoke tension is a massive tool that mechanics use to fine tune ride. As important as suspension. Less tension & thus more rim movement will give a more supple tracked ride, more tension will ping you along. etc etc.

    It looks to me that Yeti have tried to package short chain stays, chainring clearance, tyre clearance and some flex. Potentially with some combinations of wheels, spoke tension and tyres it's really not working.

    Hear Peter Zawisowski talking about the packaging challenges here
    https://soundcloud.com/mtbpodcast/ep...ch-zawistowski

    I wish they had made the stays 5mm longer and taken a bit of the tracking flex out as I think this debate wouldn't be happening if that was the case.
    No rage at all, but that clearance looks almost identical to mine which was something like 0.147" when I measured with a micrometer. The stiffest wheelset on the planet is still going to rub with that little clearance. The only time it's not rubbing is if the bike is in a stand and the wheel is off the ground

    The chainstay argument is bogus as well... plenty of bikes out there with short chainstays and room for even 27.5 plus tires. The Specialized Enduro and Scott Ransom come to mind.
    Denver, CO

  8. #408
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    Here are pictures of my bike with a 2.5 WT aggressor, there is plenty of room in there.






  9. #409
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    Thatís the most clearance Iíve seen with a 2.5 Aggressor! Whatís the other side look like? Did you dish the wheel? Iím guessing 30mm ID?
    Denver, CO

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    Thatís the most clearance Iíve seen with a 2.5 Aggressor! Whatís the other side look like? Did you dish the wheel? Iím guessing 30mm ID?
    They are stock enve built M730 wheels on king hubs




  11. #411
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    New bushings arrived from YETI on 12/1 installed today. Unmarked package so I don't know what the bushing dimensions are. The bushings that the bike came with were very easy to remove and the new ones took some persuasion to install. The play and associated clunk is gone.

    Finally got the bike all together and I'll post up a pic soon. I'm about 6'1" and got the large. During my parking lot ride in a feeble attempt to bed the brakes in (25 degrees already tonight, too cold to eff around outside) the bike felt a bit small perhaps. I'm on a size large. A true trail ride will tell but I hope I didn't get the wrong size. My last two bikes were large SC 5010 2015 and Nomad V3, so by the numbers this bike is bigger in every way I think. Now I just need a weekend off to head south and ride! Cheers to everyone on the forum, sharing both good and bad experiences.

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdxkid View Post
    New bushings arrived from YETI on 12/1 installed today. Unmarked package so I don't know what the bushing dimensions are. The bushings that the bike came with were very easy to remove and the new ones took some persuasion to install. The play and associated clunk is gone.

    Finally got the bike all together and I'll post up a pic soon. I'm about 6'1" and got the large. During my parking lot ride in a feeble attempt to bed the brakes in (25 degrees already tonight, too cold to eff around outside) the bike felt a bit small perhaps. I'm on a size large. A true trail ride will tell but I hope I didn't get the wrong size. My last two bikes were large SC 5010 2015 and Nomad V3, so by the numbers this bike is bigger in every way I think. Now I just need a weekend off to head south and ride! Cheers to everyone on the forum, sharing both good and bad experiences.
    It feels smaller when pedaling but once you stand up and get into attack pose it will feel much bigger. The steeper STA makes the cockpit feel more compact. You could always move to a 50mm stem.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkstar187 View Post
    They are stock enve built M730 wheels on king hubs



    Interesting. Yours is the most room I have seen on both sides. Wonder what the deal is... I canít imagine a swingarm mold would have that much variance.
    Denver, CO

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    Interesting. Yours is the most room I have seen on both sides. Wonder what the deal is... I canít imagine a swingarm mold would have that much variance.
    Iím not sure, I just got the bike about a week ago it took a longgg time to get it. I ordered it right when they came out, my friend got his in the first batch maybe they did see there was an issues with the first batch?

  15. #415
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    My rim is dished centered to the hub on my sb130. With the 2.3 minion ss mounted, I've measured the distance between the sidewall and lower stay on the DS to be 8.3mm and the NDS to be 12.3mm.
    Im assuming the seatpost is the centerline. The center of the tire does not line up with the center of the seatpost. If I dish the rim 2mm towards the NDS, i will get exactly 10.3mm on both sides and the tire will be centered or inline with the seatpost. Isnt this ideal? Maybe doing this will provide the necessary relief for a 2.5. A 2.5" tire is only 2.5mm wider on each side as compared to a 2.3". You should get about 7.8mm clearance gap to the lower stay. Wouldnt this work?

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  16. #416
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    NSMB First Impressions mentions the tire clearance too...with a 2.5 DHF.
    https://nsmb.com/articles/2019-yeti-...t-impressions/

    I mean Yeti knew peeps will want to run the Assegai when it comes out with trail versions

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    NSMB First Impressions mentions the tire clearance too...with a 2.5 DHF.
    https://nsmb.com/articles/2019-yeti-...t-impressions/

    I mean Yeti knew peeps will want to run the Assegai when it comes out with trail versions
    Assuming you mean the rear tyre, read the comments below it was actually a 2.4 DHR2 (2.5 DHR2 doesn't exist).

    Photo is of a DHR2 looking at the tread pattern. Looks way too tight on the DS chainstay. Even with the stiffest wheels in the world you could get a tyre to flex enough to hit that.

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by -C- View Post
    Assuming you mean the rear tyre, read the comments below it was actually a 2.4 DHR2 (2.5 DHR2 doesn't exist).

    Photo is of a DHR2 looking at the tread pattern. Looks way too tight on the DS chainstay. Even with the stiffest wheels in the world you could get a tyre to flex enough to hit that.
    That's exactly what I ran when I had my 150. It rubbed a ton, and the point I was trying to make above.
    Denver, CO

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    My rim is dished centered to the hub on my sb130. With the 2.3 minion ss mounted, I've measured the distance between the sidewall and lower stay on the DS to be 8.3mm and the NDS to be 12.3mm.
    Im assuming the seatpost is the centerline. The center of the tire does not line up with the center of the seatpost. If I dish the rim 2mm towards the NDS, i will get exactly 10.3mm on both sides and the tire will be centered or inline with the seatpost. Isnt this ideal? Maybe doing this will provide the necessary relief for a 2.5. A 2.5" tire is only 2.5mm wider on each side as compared to a 2.3". You should get about 7.8mm clearance gap to the lower stay. Wouldnt this work?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    I asked Yeti about dishing the wheel and never got a response on multiple occasions and so did my LBS. They don't believe it's an issue and if they gave a recommendation it would be admitting there is an issue was basically what I took away from my attempts. If it's not designed to be offset it may put stress on the linkage and cause premature wear.
    Denver, CO

  20. #420
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    There will usually be a notch on the DS of the chainstay for the chainring but the seat stay is pretty symmetrical. The seatpost is usually the centerline and i think if the rim is centered to that, its the best you can get. Youre basically trimming out any frame tolerances. You want your rear tire inline with the front tire for best tracking. I think the asymmetry of the chainstay of the DS will always be an issue to make room for the chainring. Maybe there is something to be said about the 157 standard. In anycase, I'd check and trim the rim and run stiff wheels. Thats the best you can do. For those with alu wheels and tend to corner hard, wheel clearance should definitely be a deciding factor. Maybe the industry needs a new standard of reporting the width between the centerline to the inside right chainstay.

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  21. #421
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    2.5 aggressor on 30mm internal carbon wheel after the first 150 miles on a new frame.

    SB130 and SB150 issues?-img_8793.jpg

    SB130 and SB150 issues?-img_8794.jpg

  22. #422
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    That is seriously tight clearance, good thing you have ridden on dry as it looks but get any mud in there and forget it. Yeti is now known for having nice rear triangle clearance for wide tires. I have a friend who put a continental which has a lot of volume in the middle of the tire and its rubbing on the middle part of the rear triangle. Brand new bike, I'm just not entirely sure why Yeti would make it so tight in the rear triangle.

  23. #423
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    Maybe they should have used 157 Superboost Trail Plus, just sayin.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  24. #424
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    Wow ok. Both sides rubbing. Dishing isn't gonna fix that.

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  25. #425
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    Damn dude that serious rubbing! Same tire same setup, but way less clearance then mine this is wild! How is that possible.

  26. #426
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    Maybe they modified the mold?
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

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    My guess is that the wheel is flexy. Mold is pretty consistent. Modifying a mold is expensive.

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  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkstar187 View Post
    Damn dude that serious rubbing! Same tire same setup, but way less clearance then mine this is wild! How is that possible.
    Go put a couple hundred hard miles on the bike and see how your chainstays look. These 2.5 tires sometimes look to have ok clearance when the bike is just sitting but under heavy load they are flexing just enough to contact the chainstays. The rider of this bike is 160 lbs and rides it hard. He runs cushcore and around 25 psi in the rear.

    This is my bike with a 2.5 aggressor on a different 31mm internal carbon wheel than the orange bike and this setup slightly rubs under load also. A 2.4 DHR DH casing tire has not yet rubbed.

    SB130 and SB150 issues?-img_8798.jpg

  29. #429
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    Rom3n - are you using mastic tape in there to protect the frame on the chainstays and seatube? If so good idea - may have to copy.

    So sounds like 2.4s or tyres below 61mm are the sweet spot. Out of interest the current evil offering also cant take tyres bigger than 2.4 so yeti arnt alone in that space. Where in yetis site does it say the bike can take 2.5 - ive only ever read it in the reviews but cant find any info on the site.

    Im amazed that no one from yeti has been on this forum as yet or on social media about this. All the jibber jabber on this site has done more damage to brand yeti in the last 2 months than all the positives they would of gained thier marketing spend last year. These posts live forever. Its a very niave way to run a business in 2018.

    People still bash Evil about issues with the undead from 2012, whenever they bring out a bike. MTBers are pretty unforging and have long memories.

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karve View Post
    Rom3n - are you using mastic tape in there to protect the frame on the chainstays and seatube? If so good idea - may have to copy.

    So sounds like 2.4s or tyres below 61mm are the sweet spot. Out of interest the current evil offering also cant take tyres bigger than 2.4 so yeti arnt alone in that space. Where in yetis site does it say the bike can take 2.5 - ive only ever read it in the reviews but cant find any info on the site.

    Im amazed that no one from yeti has been on this forum as yet or on social media about this. All the jibber jabber on this site has done more damage to brand yeti in the last 2 months than all the positives they would of gained thier marketing spend last year. These posts live forever. Its a very niave way to run a business in 2018.

    People still bash Evil about issues with the undead from 2012, whenever they bring out a bike. MTBers are pretty unforging and have long memories.
    Yah I always wrap the entire inside of my chainstays and places I know rocks will hit and get caught with mastic and replace as needed but it tends to hold up and protect the bike really well.

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karve View Post
    Rom3n - are you using mastic tape in there to protect the frame on the chainstays and seatube? If so good idea - may have to copy.

    So sounds like 2.4s or tyres below 61mm are the sweet spot. Out of interest the current evil offering also cant take tyres bigger than 2.4 so yeti arnt alone in that space. Where in yetis site does it say the bike can take 2.5 - ive only ever read it in the reviews but cant find any info on the site.

    Im amazed that no one from yeti has been on this forum as yet or on social media about this. All the jibber jabber on this site has done more damage to brand yeti in the last 2 months than all the positives they would of gained thier marketing spend last year. These posts live forever. Its a very niave way to run a business in 2018.

    People still bash Evil about issues with the undead from 2012, whenever they bring out a bike. MTBers are pretty unforging and have long memories.

    Why would they go on go on a forum or media to comment. Sure itís an issue for a percentage of people, but for a ton itís not. If it bothers you so much, sell the bike and move on like streetdoctor did. Or an even better idea, put a smaller tire in there and get on with your life...itís still a rad bike. Iíd guess that a large group of people think they can tell the difference between a 2.5 and 2.3, while they actually canít. And even smaller number actually needs them. If you want a plus bike go buy one.

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbob27 View Post
    Why would they go on go on a forum or media to comment.
    My comment was really directed at all three new bikes. The whole flex tyre rub loosening bolt thing is being reported across all these new 2018 designs. Its at the point where Yeti need to engage their current and future customers on it. Does this from the SB100 thread sound familiar?

    slipstream - 'm not going to write Yeti off for future bike purchases, but I will never buy a first generation Yeti again. If I'm going to be a Beta tester, I should be getting paid to do it, not paying a premium for a sub par frame

    bogeydog - Although I don't have extreme flex or looseness yet, I am confident it will show, but less confident Yeti will make it an easy fix. I think they are scared to death of admitting there is an issue and think not publicly recognizing will help them.

    aappling72 - I have the same wear on a 7 week old frame and I have wear through or abrasions on non drive side seat stay from tire rub. I have about 5mm of space between tire and stay on the non drive side and then 12-14 on drive side but wheel is dished properly

    tmc1171 - Both my upper and lower drive side SI bolts are loosening. Non drive side have been ok.

    fontarin - Well, I had planned on picking up a SB100 for my bike this coming year, but after all these issues it seems safer to go with an SC Tallboy. I really like the design/feel of the SB100, but I don't want to spend a ton of time trying to get creaks or the other issues to go away.

    Thats from one page of the thread! Yeti have got something wrong on these 3 products for there to be so much noise, and hiding away hoping it disappears, doesnt help them, or their customers.

  33. #433
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    Sb130
    Minion ss 2.3
    Carbon 29iw rim tensioned to 125kgf.

    I dont understand why i would have rub marks on the DS. Very surprised. Im gonna put an extra layer of tape and dish the tire 2mm towards the NDS.

    I didnt believe all this bitching till it happened to me with such a skinny tire. Maybe yeti's are made for skinny spandex ppl. Im positive everything is torqued to spec. I dont feel the flex when riding and i dont corner hard but i do barrel through rock gardens, i think this is where it happened.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Sb130
    Minion ss 2.3
    Carbon 29iw rim tensioned to 125kgf.

    I dont understand why i would have rub marks on the DS. Very surprised. Im gonna put an extra layer of tape and dish the tire 2mm towards the NDS.

    I didnt believe all this bitching till it happened to me with such a skinny tire. Maybe yeti's are made for skinny spandex ppl. Im positive everything is torqued to spec. I dont feel the flex when riding and i dont corner hard but i do barrel through rock gardens, i think this is where it happened.

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    That one looks more like chips from rocks being thrown up and less like tire rub. Or maybe rock stuck in the tire tread and then scraping the seat stay.

    As a current 5.5 owner and at one time future 150 owner, this whole mess has me looking at other brands for my next bike.

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    Its not a chip. I just used my finger to wipe the top portion smudge off. I think i can rub it off, there's no damage. Im just gonna ride it. I change bikes every year anyways. Cool to be part of the tribe tho and see what its all about.

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    I'm having trouble understanding the correlation between the shock bushing and the tire rub. For the tire to rub, wouldn't the tire need to move independently of the swing arm? If the swingarm is moving, are you implying that the tire's not staying centered with it?

    I know that roadies can cause rubbing through mere sprinting power output. Perhaps this is where a Yeti SB130/150 owner can place some focus? How about a saddle rail-mounted camera, aimed downward to the tire rub areas, to get some data to analyze?

    I found this video to show lateral movement of a tire, when applying pedal power while going straight on pavement, measured on the driveside:



    Same guy has a similar vid with a different wheelset (claimed to have little to no flex), on the same bike: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-I43ylCfM
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  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    I'm having trouble understanding the correlation between the shock bushing and the tire rub. For the tire to rub, wouldn't the tire need to move independently of the swing arm? If the swingarm is moving, are you implying that the tire's not staying centered with it?

    I know that roadies can cause rubbing through mere sprinting power output. Perhaps this is where a Yeti SB130/150 owner can place some focus? How about a saddle rail-mounted camera, aimed downward to the tire rub areas, to get some data to analyze?

    I found this video to show lateral movement of a tire, when applying pedal power while going straight on pavement, measured on the driveside:



    Same guy has a similar vid with a different wheelset (claimed to have little to no flex), on the same bike: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-I43ylCfM
    Because theyíre not related. Two separate problems.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    I'm having trouble understanding the correlation between the shock bushing and the tire rub. For the tire to rub, wouldn't the tire need to move independently of the swing arm? If the swingarm is moving, are you implying that the tire's not staying centered with it?

    I know that roadies can cause rubbing through mere sprinting power output. Perhaps this is where a Yeti SB130/150 owner can place some focus? How about a saddle rail-mounted camera, aimed downward to the tire rub areas, to get some data to analyze?

    I found this video to show lateral movement of a tire, when applying pedal power while going straight on pavement, measured on the driveside:



    Same guy has a similar vid with a different wheelset (claimed to have little to no flex), on the same bike: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um-I43ylCfM
    Could be the SA twisting too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    Sb130
    Minion ss 2.3
    Carbon 29iw rim tensioned to 125kgf.

    I dont understand why i would have rub marks on the DS. Very surprised. Im gonna put an extra layer of tape and dish the tire 2mm towards the NDS.

    I didnt believe all this bitching till it happened to me with such a skinny tire. Maybe yeti's are made for skinny spandex ppl. Im positive everything is torqued to spec. I dont feel the flex when riding and i dont corner hard but i do barrel through rock gardens, i think this is where it happened.

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    How about the inside of the NDS chainstay?

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    The inside of the NDS is clean. That side has 4mm more clearance. I was gonna dish it 2mm this weekend and stick with the 2.3 tire , maybe a 2.4 if i don't see anymore rub. I think its just the rear triangle twisting when going through lots of chunk. I was riding the sb130 like i do the hd4 which i had a 2.8 rekon on the back and never saw any rub for the entire year i had it. I was taking it down some pretty good sized rocks at speed. I don't think the rear is beefy enough, maybe thats what yeti meant when they said there is some flex. I think that's just a cover up. I want flex in my wheels for compliance, not my frame. I think we can work through this. Overall the sb130/150 is a good bike.

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  41. #441
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    Anyone notice differences in clearance between Turq and non-turq frame?

    I'm still speechless Yeti hasn't addressed this issue. In the internet age all customers are more and more educated with their purchases.

  42. #442
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    Hi all.

    Here we have a saying for the tire clearance, "you must be able to fit your finger between the stays and the tire". I guess if yeti says a 2.4/2.5 tire is ok to be put in this bikes, they lie. There is no margin there.

    Hope the issues get solved and I can get my sb130 next year.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gastonbx View Post
    Hi all.

    Here we have a saying for the tire clearance, "you must be able to fit your finger between the stays and the tire". I guess if yeti says a 2.4/2.5 tire is ok to be put in this bikes, they lie. There is no margin there.

    Hope the issues get solved and I can get my sb130 next year.
    For reference a Hans Dampf 2.35 fits with a finger between the stays. I have not experienced rub yet. Schwalbe tires are generally bigger than maxxis.
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  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowsed341 View Post
    For reference a Hans Dampf 2.35 fits with a finger between the stays. I have not experienced rub yet. Schwalbe tires are generally bigger than maxxis.
    ya but what size gloves do you wear? FWIW all the Maxxis I have measured have been true to size.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    ya but what size gloves do you wear? FWIW all the Maxxis I have measured have been true to size.
    Thatís on 30id m1900 wheels. Thatís what came with my GX build.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    ya but what size gloves do you wear? FWIW all the Maxxis I have measured have been true to size.
    There's been a lot of discussion in multiple places where maxxis tires are more narrow than spec'd

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  47. #447
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    I run a Hans Dampf on a 30mm ID wheel and that tire measures 2.43" or so wide.

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  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    There's been a lot of discussion in multiple places where maxxis tires are more narrow than spec'd

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    ok, I'm just telling you my personal experience measured with a micrometer on a dozen tires or so on 30mm ID rims. When they're new they measure 0.1-0.15 smaller than rated. After setting up over night and a first ride they have all been right around spec. a 2.5 DHF is usually around 2.55.
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  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    There's been a lot of discussion in multiple places where maxxis tires are more narrow than spec'd
    Regardless of who is "right", there is considerable difference between a 2.35 Schwalbe and 2.3 Maxxis. My 2.35 Magic Mary looks pretty damn close in size to a friends 2.5 DHF (haven't got the calipers out though TBH), so even if they changed the spec sheet to say "2.4 maximum rear tyre" rather than 2.5 there may still be rubbing issues if someone wants to run a 2.35 Magic Mary on the rear (which doesn't seem out of order for a bike like the SB150 IMO).

  50. #450
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    So there are potentially 2 seperate issues with the new bikes?

    1. A quality control issue with shock bushings that is creating more flex than yeti intended on an already compliant rear end? -if so not a great start to a new bike launch, and smacks of the cracked rear ends on the sb6 launch, however If so this seems like a straight forward fix , yeti just need to sort out bushings for those affected, and check new bikes going forward.

    2. A rear triangle thatís narrower than yeti stated in the marketing guff.? If yeti claim it runs a 2.5 tire then you would think they would have checked a few different types from the leading brands before making the claim, or are things that tight at yeti ( no pun intended) that they only have an old worn aggressor kicking around in R&D?

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikefarmer View Post
    So there are potentially 2 seperate issues with the new bikes?

    1. A quality control issue with shock bushings that is creating more flex than yeti intended on an already compliant rear end? -if so not a great start to a new bike launch, and smacks of the cracked rear ends on the sb6 launch, however If so this seems like a straight forward fix , yeti just need to sort out bushings for those affected, and check new bikes going forward.
    Can I ask what I need to look for related to this shock bushing issue? I don't notice any play in the shock mounting bushings side to side in the front or rear of the shock, but when picking up the bike there's slight play in the rear linkage before the shock engages if this make any sense - before you load the shock. A slight gap that you can notice, but nothing really when riding. Not sure if this is normal?

  52. #452
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    a side to side play at the shock front eyelet closest to the fork. If you grab the shock and jerk side to side, if there is no knock or play then yours is ok

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  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacksonlui View Post
    a side to side play at the shock front eyelet closest to the fork. If you grab the shock and jerk side to side, if there is no knock or play then yours is ok

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    Thx. Good to know. I have no play at all the front eyelet so it seems I'm in the clear.

  54. #454
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    What is the actual distance between the chain stays where the tyres go on the 130 and 150? Is it the same width for both bikes or different?

    On my current non Yeti bikes they are 80mm / 3.15 inches. Assuming that the minimum standard for clearance is 7mm each side then that means there is space for an accurately sized 2.5inch / 64mmm tyre on my bikes.

    I'm assuming its less on the Yetis but how much less. Those figures should give us accurate baselines as to what size tyre can fit. If its 75mm for example then 2.4 is your absolute limit and Yeti should have advertised it as such.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karve View Post
    What is the actual distance between the chain stays where the tyres go on the 130 and 150? Is it the same width for both bikes or different?

    On my current non Yeti bikes they are 80mm / 3.15 inches. Assuming that the minimum standard for clearance is 7mm each side then that means there is space for an accurately sized 2.5inch / 64mmm tyre on my bikes.

    I'm assuming its less on the Yetis but how much less. Those figures should give us accurate baselines as to what size tyre can fit. If its 75mm for example then 2.4 is your absolute limit and Yeti should have advertised it as such.
    Based on the clearance I had with a new 2.5 Aggressor (about 6mm / 4mm) I would imagine itís just under 75mm
    Denver, CO

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti_SB View Post
    Can I ask what I need to look for related to this shock bushing issue? I don't notice any play in the shock mounting bushings side to side in the front or rear of the shock, but when picking up the bike there's slight play in the rear linkage before the shock engages if this make any sense - before you load the shock. A slight gap that you can notice, but nothing really when riding. Not sure if this is normal?
    You should not have any play in the linkage when you lift the bike. You should inspect that everything is properly tightened including the shock bolts. This is what the shock bushing play looks like before and after fixing.

    https://youtu.be/dHusApyzpxM

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    Based on the clearance I had with a new 2.5 Aggressor (about 6mm / 4mm) I would imagine itís just under 75mm
    Thanks man - So assuming your 2.5 comes up as a 2.5 (my 2.5 dhf is exactly 2.5 on 31in rims) then thats a 63.5 + 10mm = 73.5 which means its only big enough really for a 60mm tyre / 2.35 inches.

    Thats what Yeti should have said from the start really. Misadvertised. What about the 130.. the same?

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karve View Post
    Thanks man - So assuming your 2.5 comes up as a 2.5 (my 2.5 dhf is exactly 2.5 on 31in rims) then thats a 63.5 + 10mm = 73.5 which means its only big enough really for a 60mm tyre / 2.35 inches.

    Thats what Yeti should have said from the start really. Misadvertised. What about the 130.. the same?
    Agreed. For reference I just went out and also measured my Scott Ransom. I measured (with a micrometer) where the corner knobs would contact on the Yeti and came up with 3.28" or 83.31mm and the Ransom is rated for a 2.6" tire. The back end is also incredibly more stiff compared to the Yeti but there is ample room. 2.6" equaling 66mm there is over 17mm of clearance. I have not ridden a 130 but I imagine it's the same? If the Yeti is advertised as fitting a 2.5 I guess Scott should have marketed the Ransom for a 29x3.0 lol.
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  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rom3n View Post
    You should not have any play in the linkage when you lift the bike. You should inspect that everything is properly tightened including the shock bolts. This is what the shock bushing play looks like before and after fixing.

    https://youtu.be/dHusApyzpxM
    I don't have any of this play like shown in this vid. When I pick up the rear of the bike or push down, there's a very slight gap in the rear linkage it seems just before the rear suspension is loaded. Does not appear to be shock or bushing related. I'll have to ask my shop but they aren't even aware there are bushing related issues, so It might not lead me anywhere.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeti_SB View Post
    I don't have any of this play like shown in this vid. When I pick up the rear of the bike or push down, there's a very slight gap in the rear linkage it seems just before the rear suspension is loaded. Does not appear to be shock or bushing related. I'll have to ask my shop but they aren't even aware there are bushing related issues, so It might not lead me anywhere.
    Sounds like something is loose.
    Last edited by Streetdoctor; 1 Week Ago at 06:25 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rom3n View Post
    Unlike Specialized and some others Yeti will not deal with warranty issues direct with customers if you call them. They will direct you to contact your dealer who then has to work with the warranty person at Yeti. I have gone this route in the past and so have many of my friends. The best case is that within a few days your dealer gets a reply and they start the ball rolling to resolve the issue. What usually happens is it takes a week or two to get a reply from Yeti then they ask for a bunch of info off the bike like SN, pics etc.. and then there is no reply for another week or so. Your dealer then keeps following up and they ask for the same info again or they sometimes just run you in circles a bit. In any case your dealer usually has to keep bugging them to get results. By this point you are usually about 3-4 weeks in and if they do agree to send a replacement part it could take additional time to get.

    The best warranty experiences I have had were Specialized, Santa Cruz and Ellsworth. There is a long list of bike vendors who I have had bad customer service from.

    Bullshit, you have no idea what youre talking about.I cracked my Sb6 frame on a crash and I Jon @ Yeti sort it all out for me...No idea why youíd think they wont deal directly with customers.

    Ive had to warranty many frames from various brands and theyíve all more or less been great...funny story tho, I remember waiting nearly 2 months to get a cracked chainstay painted from Specialized ...They had the replacement but didnt have it in the matching color...wasnt impressed by that😏

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    If there were a list of people who would know what they're talking about WRT to this topic, I'd wager Roman would be on that list.

    Just sayin'.
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  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuumbaq View Post
    Bullshit, you have no idea what youre talking about.I cracked my Sb6 frame on a crash and I Jon @ Yeti sort it all out for me...No idea why youíd think they wont deal directly with customers.

    Ive had to warranty many frames from various brands and theyíve all more or less been great...funny story tho, I remember waiting nearly 2 months to get a cracked chainstay painted from Specialized ...They had the replacement but didnt have it in the matching color...wasnt impressed by that
    If you say so. Im not going to say that a Yeti employee has never helped direct with a customer who contacted them or that a customer who walked in their front door needing warranty work would never get helped but Yeti's warranty policy is for the customer to deal thru the dealer that they purchased from. You can call and ask them, they will confirm this. My comment is based on my own personal experience and those of my good friends needing warranty replacement parts on several bikes over the past few years. In every case Yeti refused to deal with the customer and required all of these inquires big and small to be sent to a dealer. These were not crash replacements.

    If you were able to call or email and get an employee at Yeti to work with you direct without getting your dealer involved that's great but im going to guess that you buying a crash replacement from Yeti with your own money is different than a customer who is claiming Yeti is at fault for a failure and is requesting them to replace or fix the issue without cost.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rom3n View Post
    If you say so. Im not going to say that a Yeti employee has never helped direct with a customer who contacted them or that a customer who walked in their front door needing warranty work would never get helped but Yeti's warranty policy is for the customer to deal thru the dealer that they purchased from. You can call and ask them, they will confirm this. My comment is based on my own personal experience and those of my good friends needing warranty replacement parts on several bikes over the past few years. In every case Yeti refused to deal with the customer and required all of these inquires big and small to be sent to a dealer. These were not crash replacements.

    If you were able to call or email and get an employee at Yeti to work with you direct without getting your dealer involved that's great but im going to guess that you buying a crash replacement from Yeti with your own money is different than a customer who is claiming Yeti is at fault for a failure and is requesting them to replace or fix the issue without cost.
    Id agree with you to a point, Iíve had 3 warranty replacements on my sb6, a couple of SI linkages and a frame replacement and yes have always been directed to deal with it through the bike shop and not direct with yeti, that said they have always been very quick, from a few days to maximum a couple of weeks. Compare this to my previous make, where claims regularly took 6-8 weeks. Bikes break, all the bikes Iíve ridden Iíve put warranty claims in, bar one. The only issue I have with yeti is that they build some of the best riding bikes but go and screw up the launches of them with technical / manufacturing oversights, that give them a bad rep.

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rom3n View Post
    In every case Yeti refused to deal with the customer and required all of these inquires big and small to be sent to a dealer. These were not crash replacements.

    This is pretty much standard practise among manufactures and I do the same for the company I work with. They have a distributor in that country and then retailers. Dealing direct is time consuming, not cost effective and also leaves the dealer out of the loop.
    I wouldn't get to caught up on yeti not dealing direct with warranties but they have been good when I have spoken to them.

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    It will be interesting to hear how this is handled in the future. I hear the winds of change are blowing over at Yeti HQ. In other news-

    Update on chainstay clearance. My sb150 measured somewhere in the neighborhood of 74-75mm between the chainstays where the corner knob rubs. My buddy that just got a warranty replacement frame for the same issues measures 78.5 but still has a slight rub. (My Ransom measures 83.3.) Iím not sure if that much variation is common (or possible) in a mold but it certainly seems like a lot and that they potentially have some serious QC issues. At the very least they need to talk to the consumer. I canít imagine that this isnít really hurting them at a time, when if rumors are true they especially donít want an issue like this surfacing. This post is nearing 50k views
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  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    It will be interesting to hear how this is handled in the future. I hear the winds of change are blowing over at Yeti HQ. In other news-

    Update on chainstay clearance. My sb150 measured somewhere in the neighborhood of 74-75mm between the chainstays where the corner knob rubs. My buddy that just got a warranty replacement frame for the same issues measures 78.5 but still has a slight rub. (My Ransom measures 83.3.) Iím not sure if that much variation is common (or possible) in a mold but it certainly seems like a lot and that they potentially have some serious QC issues. At the very least they need to talk to the consumer. I canít imagine that this isnít really hurting them at a time, when if rumors are true they especially donít want an issue like this surfacing. This post is nearing 50k views
    That would explain the difference in clearance among some frames vs others seeing in this thread...at least it seems as if Yeti is doing ďsomethingĒ to solve the problem...

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by ban View Post
    That would explain the difference in clearance among some frames vs others seeing in this thread...at least it seems as if Yeti is doing ďsomethingĒ to solve the problem...
    If they are why wouldnít they announce it?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    If they are why wouldnít they announce it?
    So this is really about you wanting to see a little bit of public humiliation.

    If they are sorting the problem in the background to stop this going forward and dealing with those customers that are highlighting issues, why the need to announce ?

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikefarmer View Post
    So this is really about you wanting to see a little bit of public humiliation.

    If they are sorting the problem in the background to stop this going forward and dealing with those customers that are highlighting issues, why the need to announce ?
    Public humiliation from a random dude on a message forum? Hah.... More so about all the early adopters who took a chance on a new bike based on a companies reputation and then being left in the dark to deal with problems on their own while they try and deflect and blame it on anything else they can think of. "If they complain enough I guess we'll handle it" seems to be Yeti's approach to their design flaw. That and outright lies. Great customer service for those who arguably believed in them most. I've found honesty works best in these situations, a full recall of initial swing arms or a public promise to make it right would have been the best way to handle it. I guess losing some customers for life is "cost of doing business" to them when they're banking on the dentist/doctor clientele. Yeti has built a reputation based on being made "for the racer", IE "racebred". IMO they're using that bit of marketing to attract those that are in fact the opposite meanwhile selling an inferior product for someone who is in fact a local racer and shitting on them in the process. So not only does the privateer get to pay $1000-2000 in race entries for a season, they also get to pay $8,000 for a bike that they're left with dealing with all kinds of issues while the company does anything they can other than tell you the truth. The bike just doesn't work as advertised. They don't care because most of their clients suck at riding bikes. There's a reason most of the shop employees who get 40-60% off these bikes all ride another brand their shop carries.

    I'm 100% satisfied with my Scott Ransom and wouldn't ride another 150 if they gave it to me and it didn't rub! Dealing with Yeti was probably one of the most frustrating things I've ever done in the bike industry after being involved for quite a long time. Based on my experience with Yeti, their advertising tactics, it can be argued they have basically sold out. We'll see if that really happens soon enough I imagine...

    I'd love to see some more people measure the inside of their chain stays where the shoulder knobs are probably touching. Should be easy to get similar measurements just look for the black marks. Preferably with a micrometer as well so it's most accurate and we can see the variation. If Yeti created a new mold I think someone over there would have leaked it to the websites like here, pinkbike, etc. doing reviews since there are so many professional reviews talking about flex.
    Denver, CO

  71. #471
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    Still makes me wonder if the difference is from Turq and non turq mold and if now they are sending out non turq chainstays? I doubt there has been enough time to create a new mold, test and produce new CS.

    Either way Yeti has dropped the ball big time by not addressing this. I demoed a 150 and am considering it as my race bike for '19 season but with so many other good bikes out there I'm having a hard time seeing a compelling reason to give Yeti my cash. Biggest reason I'm considering the bike is because it pedals well.

    At this point if Yeti doesn't make a statement, they've lost me as a customer I think. I've owned 5 Yetis and my wife has one as well so 6 total.

  72. #472
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    I think this is deffo the right way to look at it... .. measuring the space and seeing if there is variance across frames... the TURQ / Normal factor is one I hadn't considered.

    74 is way too tight. 78 means there is just enough for a (78mm-14mm=64mm) 2.4inch tyre which is sort of acceptable.

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crit Rat View Post
    Still makes me wonder if the difference is from Turq and non turq mold and if now they are sending out non turq chainstays? I doubt there has been enough time to create a new mold, test and produce new CS.

    Either way Yeti has dropped the ball big time by not addressing this. I demoed a 150 and am considering it as my race bike for '19 season but with so many other good bikes out there I'm having a hard time seeing a compelling reason to give Yeti my cash. Biggest reason I'm considering the bike is because it pedals well.

    At this point if Yeti doesn't make a statement, they've lost me as a customer I think. I've owned 5 Yetis and my wife has one as well so 6 total.
    Interesting... I agree about the mold and wonder if this is really the case. Are the new bikes labeled turq/non-turq on the swingarm? Although minimal weight difference in swingarm alone Iíd still be pretty pissed if I paid for a turq and the replacement was a lesser quality carbon layup without at least making it known to me. Really glad Iím not dealing with this anymore! As you said, the answer would easily be determined if Yeti came out with a press release and quieted all the speculation. The 150 I had was Yeti number 4 and without a doubt my last.
    Last edited by Streetdoctor; 6 Days Ago at 12:51 PM.
    Denver, CO

  74. #474
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    moved to a new post.
    Denver, CO

  75. #475
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    This thread stopped me from getting one. I had one set aside for me at my LBS and was ready to pick up a non turq one.... now I said, lets wait and see what they do with the hightower LT in a few months.

  76. #476
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    This thread didn't deter me one bit. I went with the GX build and can't wait to ride it. The VAST majority of these bikes sold so far are receiving no complaints... My bike shop has had zero across all three 2019 29er models.
    Yeti SB150 - Dental Apprentice Edition

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by YetiKK View Post
    This thread didn't deter me one bit. I went with the GX build and can't wait to ride it. The VAST majority of these bikes sold so far are receiving no complaints... My bike shop has had zero across all three 2019 29er models.
    It wonít put me off either, maybe a few checks on a demo but that would be it. Is the bike rode well and I was on the market it would still be up there.

    If you go through the thread itís really only 2 or 3 bikes that have had clearance issues, and maybe 1 or 2 elsewhere, which could well be the same people on other forums. hardly the massive failure that some claim . As long as yeti are sorting it for those affected, all is 👍.

  78. #478
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    Here are some photos of mine with a fresh 2.5 WT DD aggressor on my SB150.






  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkstar187 View Post
    Here are some photos of mine with a fresh 2.5 WT DD aggressor on my SB150.





    Darkstar, is that a Turq series frame or Carbon series frame? Thanks for posting.

  80. #480
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    Turq series

  81. #481
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    Darkstar, you getting any rubbing?

    Thanks again.

  82. #482
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    no rubbing yet, I have put it through its paces a few times! my 5.5 had rub marks from the same setup.

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    This thread stopped me from getting one. I had one set aside for me at my LBS and was ready to pick up a non turq one.... now I said, lets wait and see what they do with the hightower LT in a few months.
    That's a shame, it's a hell of a bike.
    Yeti SB130 Turq X0

  84. #484
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    I have about 10 rides on my sb150. I ride in Laguna beach 3-4 times a week. I own the SB150 Carbon Model and run a 2.35 Hans Dampf.

    I just wanted to mention that i did a full check today for any rubbing, flex, anything unusual and could not find anything.

    I see no rub on the chainstays, no paint chips. The last 3 rides my tires have collected moderate dirt and i have had no issues with jamming. I have pretty decent space around the tire.

    Maybe i am one of the Lucky ones, only time will tell.

    The bike itself is pretty awesome and is very fast and easy to get comfortable on. I came from a pivot switchblade and have no regrets about my purchasing decision.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  85. #485
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    Denver, CO

  86. #486
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    I am in the same position with my SB150 in that I have had zero issues with it. No play whatsoever in the shock mounts. I run Nobl TR36 which are 31ID rims with a 2.4 DHR2 in the back. There is no rubbing at all nor have I noticed any flex in the rear end. We are getting into the heart of winter riding here in BC with loads of mud and shit that gets on and in the bike frame. No jamming or anything of that nature from trail debris due to a lack of clearance.

    To be fair, a friend of mine has an SB130 who's shock completely moved around but was fixed very quickly. So clearly these problems do exist out there, however, the two LBS who have sold around 20 or so of these new bikes since launch have only had the one (my friends) that had this issue, the others were completely fine.

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by Streetdoctor View Post
    ...
    They could of redone the rear mold and corrected. It is also possible that the non-turq models are less flexy as a heavier carbon was used. I am no Carbon expert but the rear end on my bike feels pretty solid.

    I do feel for you though man. You were basically the test mule for us guys with no issues. I totally understand being turned off on Yeti after reading all of the posts.
    I do think the Scott Ransom is also a sick bike and i had it on my shortlist. I don't think you can go wrong with many of the new bikes.
    Evil Insurgent Yeti SB5.5 Evil Wreckoning Pivot Switchblade Pivot Mach 5.5 Yeti SB150

  88. #488
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    Darkstar187 that looks pretty decent clearance, almost acceptable for UK mud! It's back on the list!

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