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  1. #1
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    Just about 100 miles on my new SB130

    I absolutely love my new bike (Spruce SB130 X0 / turq), I've always been a "one bike for everything" kind of guy and this comes very close to doing that. I think for the riding I do I may have actually been closer to an SB100 but for the 5% of the time I am hitting chunky stuff and being 205# 6' 1" rider the SB130 really was the better choice for me.

    I still find it funny that I got a 7k retail price top level carbon bike that is just about 1.5 pounds heavier than my last 5.5 inch travel aluminum trail bike ('16 trance 2 27.5). I know it's the float dps vs dpx2, fox 32 vs fox 36, and heavier wheels and tires of a more enduro oriented build but it still amuses me.

    I also find myself adding "...for an enduro bike" to most of the descriptions about it being really good at climbing. Strava says I was faster climbing on my old Trance 27.5 than I am on the new bike. I think it's mostly the heavy slow tires, I've replaced the 2.3 aggressor with a 2.3 Continental black chili cross king and am maybe still just a tad slower uphill.

    The new bike is wayyyyyyy more stable and confidence inspiring on anything remotely technical, but amusingly enough I still can't beat any of my old PR's that were made back in 2015 on my old 2008 trance X2 26 bike, including DH chunky runs. I was in way better shape back then, just reinforces that upgrading the rider is always cheaper than upgrading the bike I suppose.

    The 130 suspension feels amazing, at full speed. I find that just kinda pedaling around it is a little harsher than the trance was in full open. I think since the 130 is designed to climb so well in open vs my Maestro equipped bike that usually got left in medium (trail) that I had a plusher feel when I did switch to open.

    As for any of the common complaints - my bike has been perfect. No pivot bolts backing out. No tire rub with either of the 2.3 tires I've run and I'm unlikely to ever go above 2.4 in back anyway so not that worried about it. I put some racer tape on the inside where rub will occur if it ever does. If there is excessive flex in the rear end then I'm not good enough to notice it, bike totally rips and love that I can just point and shoot over things I used to have to go around and the suspension just eats it up without a hint of drama.

    As for it being the quiver killer, I haven't actually convinced myself to sell the old 27.5 yet, but I also haven't ridden it even once since getting the new bike so the jury is still out on that.

  2. #2
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    Give it a few rides...New PR's are coming.

  3. #3
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    The 130 suspension feels amazing, at full speed. I find that just kinda pedaling around it is a little harsher than the trance was in full open. I think since the 130 is designed to climb so well in open vs my Maestro equipped bike that usually got left in medium (trail) that I had a plusher feel when I did switch to open.
    Id agree on this - the 130 is not plush at low speed but very controlled at high. Its the "race" feel that a lot of the reviews describe. I think the x2 would make it plusher all round without loosig the high end control.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the honest review.

    Frame weights are climbing across the board. Santa Cruz, Ibis, etc. frames are all getting heavier along with the Yetis... Evils were already heavy so they're still the same. I feel your pain. I just picked up an Ibis HD4 and the frame + shock weighs more than the alloy Heckler it's replacing.

    I suppose it's a compromise if you want to ride bikes that are built to handle EWS racing. The climbing tradeoff is real... no matter the seat tube angle (or kinematics), it's mostly still about weight... and fitness.

    Enjoy the new ride.

  5. #5
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    Give yourself a little more time and more rides on that bike and push yourself to get into better biking shape like you used to be and I think you'll see your times improve. I've never worried about my times on any sections, that's just not me. However I recently bought a Mojo 3 and after many many years on Yeti it definitely was a change at first. I felt slower and not as sure of myself in otherwise very familiar trails. But that just took a few rides and now I'm killing it.

    that being said some bikes are just faster in certain situations than other bikes. I'm not familiar with the trance, is that an XC race bike or is that the 5 in bike? Anyway that sb130 is probably going to be faster in the chunk since you now have bigger wheels (a pretty big generalization admittedly), and a more relaxed geometry. However you say you rarely ride in the chunk, so maybe you won't get to realize the benefit of the heavier sb130, just the negative aspect of the increased weight.

  6. #6
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    Trance is a 5.5" trail bike, it's just a couple years older geom / build before everything started going heavy (fox 32, fox dps, 25?mm stans arch rims, 2.3 tires front and rear). Very capable trail bike but can tell for anything technical the sb130 is just leaps and bounds more planted. It was when I was riding out in Sedona, doing the rockier parts of Palm Canyon Epic and hitting trails like Rockit and Lynx at Aliso & Woods Canyon at speed that I finally really started wanting a little burlier bike. I'm not unhappy with the SB130 at all, it's sooo much better at DH trails that it's worth the small trade off on the easy xc trails.

    I guess it's just kind of me going from a trail bike capable of light enduro to the sb130 that is more light enduro bike efficient enough for trail use. Just shifts the focus some.

  7. #7
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    "I finally really started wanting a little burlier bike."

    Yes, for faster DH stuff, the 5.5 or 150 will standout. The 130 strikes a strong balance however for excelling at climbing and very respectable DH performance. Really depends where you ride mostly or if 2 bikes makes sense in your garage.

  8. #8
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    The 130 is the burlier bike for me (as compared to my last one), I don't really do anything where I'd need the 150's capabilities.

    I just pulled the heavy 2.5 dhf off the front and put on a 2.3 tire that should shift it a little more toward the light trail range of weight and perf that is more appropriate for what I ride. Going with 2.3 mtn king / 2.3 cross king tires f/r dropped a full pound of weight and should get it centered more closely to how I want it to feel. Not thrilled with the new mtn king 2.3 vs the old 2.4 but will give it a shot and maybe move to a rekon 2.6 if I'm not happy with it. Basicly trying to make a bike with SB100 xc capability with SB130 burliness for my fat ass lol

    And I just realized I do have one of the common issues, my down tube protector is starting to peel up at the edge collecting crud.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craptasticycle View Post
    The 130 is the burlier bike for me (as compared to my last one), I don't really do anything where I'd need the 150's capabilities.

    I just pulled the heavy 2.5 dhf off the front and put on a 2.3 tire that should shift it a little more toward the light trail range of weight and perf that is more appropriate for what I ride. Going with 2.3 mtn king / 2.3 cross king tires f/r dropped a full pound of weight and should get it centered more closely to how I want it to feel. Not thrilled with the new mtn king 2.3 vs the old 2.4 but will give it a shot and maybe move to a rekon 2.6 if I'm not happy with it. Basicly trying to make a bike with SB100 xc capability with SB130 burliness for my fat ass lol

    And I just realized I do have one of the common issues, my down tube protector is starting to peel up at the edge collecting crud.
    Curious what your total bike weighs now with those tires? Personally, I'd 2.4 in the front or 2.5 (stock), but like your goal of shedding weight. This time of year I think it's a bit trickier to go with the smaller tires however.

  10. #10
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    Haha I'm in socal so it's generally always loose over hardpack all the time. If it rains the clay turns to muck and nobody rides till it dries up.

    I really liked the old 2.4 mtn king on my trance so wanted to try it again but they changed it up this year and only had 2.3 in the protection casing. Should have just bought a different tire in 2.4 or .5 but I'll ride it for a bit and see how it goes

    Bathroom scale measurement says I'm 211.4 fully clothed, and 241.4 holding the bike. Second measure to see how repeatable that is was 213.8 with sweater and shoes and 243.6 with bike

    So size L X0 turq with XT pedals and 2.3 conti tires front and rear pretty much around 29.8 to 30 pounds.
    Last edited by Craptasticycle; 1 Week Ago at 08:19 PM.

  11. #11
    Ride Fast Take Chances :)
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronco5 View Post
    Thanks for the honest review.

    Frame weights are climbing across the board. Santa Cruz, Ibis, etc. frames are all getting heavier along with the Yetis... Evils were already heavy so they're still the same. I feel your pain. I just picked up an Ibis HD4 and the frame + shock weighs more than the alloy Heckler it's replacing.

    Enjoy the new ride.
    Ripmo is lighter than a Ripley and almost a full pound lighter than a Offering which is lighter than a Following.
    Manufactures have found a good balance of strength to weight and the build has a lot more to do with the weight increasing then the frame.
    Another thing to consider is that it adds .25-.5lb each time you size up. Old XL bikes would be mediums now.

    Congratulations on the new SB130. Tires make the biggest difference up and down. I foresee lots of downhill PR's and even some uphill ones if you put XC tires on it.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  12. #12
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    Had second common issue with bike: 144 miles on it before last ride noticed the seat stay pivot bolt noticeably backed out. Other side was loose but not backed out.

    Looked at it when got home and there was loctite on the threads of the keyed bolt it mates too. I added a bit more loctite to the female side and re-torqued to 15NM. Always good to check your pivot bolts now and again but hoping I don't have to continually retorque everything every 150 miles or so. The "large collet wedge bolt" through the switch link was also below torque but not very far, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to reach 14nm. Everything else was still tight to spec.

    Settled on a bontrager XR4 2.4 tire on front, measures just about 2.5 on the 30 mm rim. Seems almost as grippy as the DHF with about 250 grams less weight.

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