Results 1 to 22 of 22
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    298

    431 grams less..

    I am considering purchasing a set of Stans ZTR 29" wheels for racing. It looks like they would reduce the wheel weight by 431 grams.

    What kind of difference could I expect? A minute or two over a typical 15 - 20 mile XC course in the North East?

    I currently run the factory Vuelta Team Disc wheels with tubes on my Moto Ti Fly. It has carried me well through the season - and a Cat 1 upgrade is immenent.

    The Stans site suggests that tire pressure should be run between 19 - 22 up Front & 22 - 25 for the Rear - has this worked against anyone? I usually have to run 35 up front and 40 out back to avoid pinch flats (160lb rider)

  2. #2
    I Tried Them ALL... SuperModerator
    Reputation: Cayenne_Pepa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,421
    Be prepared to true them every ride...
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    298
    If truing after each race is worst case - that's not too bad. I usually "touch-up" the current wheelset after each race.

    That said, maybe I'll hold off on any upgrades. The Stans wheelsets are quite spendy - but I keep reading how a decent wheelset can deliver a marked improvement over any other component.

  4. #4
    I Tried Them ALL... SuperModerator
    Reputation: Cayenne_Pepa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,421
    My 1500g Mavic Crossmax SLR have been ridden HARD since 2008(@2100 miles)...and are still straight as an arrow.
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  5. #5
    Aussie Aussie Aussie!
    Reputation: KYjelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    325
    Why not just have a big turd before you race to save weight?

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    298
    That's what the KY is for!! If said turd was directly related to the wheels - maybe.

    It's less about weight and more about inertia (I reckon)

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jonw9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    748
    Switching to Stan's will allow you to go tubeless, and run lower pressure. I run 18F/22R on my arches.

    I have been riding and racing them since March, and they are out of true a bit, but not terrible. I may just wait until the end of the season before truing.

  8. #8
    SP Singletrack rocks
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,789
    Quote Originally Posted by Self Motivated
    I am considering purchasing a set of Stans ZTR 29" wheels for racing. It looks like they would reduce the wheel weight by 431 grams.

    What kind of difference could I expect? A minute or two over a typical 15 - 20 mile XC course in the North East?

    I currently run the factory Vuelta Team Disc wheels with tubes on my Moto Ti Fly. It has carried me well through the season - and a Cat 1 upgrade is immenent.

    The Stans site suggests that tire pressure should be run between 19 - 22 up Front & 22 - 25 for the Rear - has this worked against anyone? I usually have to run 35 up front and 40 out back to avoid pinch flats (160lb rider)
    yeah you dont have to avoid pinch flats anymore. Being able to run lower pressure will make you roll faster as well grip better. Run as low as you can go with out rimming out or flexling the sideway.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: michael9218's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    277
    431 grams of rotating mass will make a huge difference in your bikes performance. Wheel weight is the single best place to reduce weight on your bike. It's the most dynamic weight on the bike. Think of your wheels like a pair of flywheels. The lighter they are the less they resist changes in motion. Also called the gyroscopic effect. You'll find the bike accelerates better, turns better, and brakes better. Even more important than the wheelset is the weight of tires and tubes. This is typically overlooked and is the single cheapest improvement you can make to a bikes performance.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    298
    That is what I have gathered (reduced inertia = better acceleration).

    Do any of the wheelset manufacturers offer inertia values rather than weight? Inertia can vary drastically depending on how the weight is distributed. Mavic advertises their Crossmax SLR's as having the lowest inertia - but they weigh a bit more than the Stan's overall.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AlliKat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1,385
    If you look on the wheels forum, there is plenty of discussion on these rims. I've considered buying a set (26") If I do, I will purchase through a shop with a decent wheel builder and have them rebuilt as Stan's is known for having marginal build quality. And, if purchased through a shop, they should give some level of warranty servicing.
    Oh sh!+ just force upgraded to cat1. Now what?
    Best thing about an ultra marathon? I just get to ride my bike for X hours!

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fakie1999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    911
    I have been riding and racing on my stans olympic wheelset since about march, and they dont need truing. I'm a light rider, and I'm running stans ravens at 18r 16f. I may run 20 in my next race, because theres like 5 miles of pavement pounding, and quite a bit of dirt roads. I saved about a pound and a half over my stock wheelset (upgraded cassette and rotors at the same time). I noticed I can accelerate much faster now.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    605
    I upgraded from Mavic SLR's (which I like as well) to Stans Race 700...which from my scale saved 400g about 1lb.

    Can't say I noticed a time difference, but they ride really nice on the AC hubs with ceramic bearings.
    I am 144lbs

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,330
    1 minute area sounds realistic 2 MAX.

    Never bought into this lower pressure for faster rolling speed, maybe if your riding none stop rock gardens where lowest pressure possible is best without hitting the rims ofcourse, but...

    Throw in some :-

    road and you want 2.3's ran 40psi area rear.
    dirt track 30psi area.
    rock garden 25psi.
    muddy dirt track, I find bike rides better harder so 33psi.

    Anything less and it drags especially on the rear.

    18 and 16psi likely with 2.1 tyres, your gauge is inaccurate, end of story, DHers can't run that with double side wall 2.5's.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    692
    huge difference IMO. I reduced other rotating weight on my bike and saw a ~5% increase in my power readings. YMMV

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fakie1999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    911
    Quote Originally Posted by Turveyd
    18 and 16psi likely with 2.1 tyres, your gauge is inaccurate, end of story, DHers can't run that with double side wall 2.5's.
    my gauge is accurate. And the tires are 2.2's. Thanks for telling me what pressures I should be running though. I gotta write that down You have no idea what other people weigh, or what they ride. I could care less if you "buy" the low tire pressure idea. It works for me, and many others. Oh yeah, "end of story."

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brentos's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,740
    It'll make a big difference in how the bike feels, it might be worth about 30 seconds to 1 minute an hour, it depends what the total weight of you, the bike, and your gear is...the lighter you are, the more it will help.

    I lost about 500g on my bike switching from a set of wheels with Stans Arch rims to Edge Compostites/dt 240/aerolite. HUGE difference in feel, the bike felt 4 lbs. lighter, it was just much more flickable.

    Was it any faster, technically a little bit, it felt quicker, but it probably wasn't even measurable.

  18. #18
    CB2
    CB2 is offline
    Jam Econo
    Reputation: CB2's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    4,214
    I swapped Sun EQ21s for Crest 29s. When you ditch all the rim strips and such the weight savings was about 250g (Crest wheelset ended up being 1530g).
    The biggest difference I noticed was stiffness (Crests are stiffer even though they are 70 grams lighter), and ease of tubeless set up. It also seems due to the wider rim bed I run my pressure a little lower; down from 24 psi to 20-22 psi with 2.1s. With 2.4s I was down around 15 psi, but I didn't care for the larger tires.
    Properly tensioned, a wheel should need only minimal truing.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BTLS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    74
    [/QUOTE]18 and 16psi likely with 2.1 tyres, your gauge is inaccurate, end of story, DHers can't run that with double side wall 2.5's.[/QUOTE]


    I run 17F/22R, 2.25 Racing Ralph (snakeskin) front/2.1 Racing Ralph (double defense) rear on Stan's Crests. I weigh 148lbs racing a full suspension 26" bike. 3 races and several hundred training miles - nothing but .

    All pressure measurements are from a Longacre car racing tire pressure gauge, certified accurate at 30psi (I t'ed it into my pump hose - )

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mudge's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,447

  21. #21
    mutaullyassuredsuffering
    Reputation: used2Bhard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,053

    Stans

    Big difference! My rear ZTR race 29 got hammered by a rock during my first week. I replaced it with a 355 rim. That combo (Race front, 355 rear) has now gone for 15 months without being touched. I had them in the shop for a checkup last week, and again, they didn't need a thing... I'm running 175lbs and they have spent many days on Bergen peak and riding steps in Moab.

    The issues with 29" Stans wheels were mainly due to hub choice. Running a 355 with a DT240 would require uneven tensioning due to the flange design and make them maintenance intensive. Using the AC, or equivalent, the problem has gone away from any wheelset I own.
    Free will is an illusion, people will always choose the perceived path of greatest pleasure.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah
    Be prepared to true them every ride...

    this is not true in my experience at all. a set of ZTR RACE 7000 wheels - raced for 3 years, never needed anything, ZTR CREST 29er wheels, most of this year, still perfect. i am 150 lbs - ride aggressive, but still pretty smooth.

    lighter is faster accelerating, top end speed is less noticeable. bike handing is different too though. but speed it also depends on tires and setup. tire pressure to me really depends on the exact tire. some i run as low as high teens, some in the mid to high twenties, but never higher than 30 psi anymore.

    the benefits of the NEW BST rim design from NoTubes are real. (ZTR Crest, Alpine, Podium MMX and Race 29er). the BST rim design holds a tire's bead better than anything else, nothing else comes close. pinch flats and burps are a thing of the past with these rims.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2018 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.