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  1. #1
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    My Experience with the following tapes and a few questions.

    Stans Yellow tape:
    We all know it's just yellow strapping tape. The problem is the price of it and how much you get. Currently they want 12.00 plus shipping for barely 10yds of it. Strapping tape negatives are if change out tires a lot like i do, eventually the bead grabs the tape and peels it away as you pop the bead off the tire. People swear that Tesa 4289 tape on amazon is the exact same thing.

    3m/scott film Blue Strapping Tape 8896:
    This is the exact tape specialized used to send out with their roval wheelsets. They have since changed. My experience with this tape is that the adhesive sticks decent to alum rims, but ****ty to carbon rims. Also the adhesive seems like it becomes even more crappy as it sits in amazons warehouses or whatever warehouse. When I look at the roll i see gaps where there's space between and you can tell the adhesive is not sticky there. The results of this is a crappy bond to your rim and when you pop the bead off your rim the bead grabs the tape and pulls it off the flat ramp next to the bead wall allowing sealant to leak in when you seal it back up. It does not stick worth a crap to carbon rims either.

    jvcc polypro strapping tape from amazon:
    Great stuff. You need to go around the rim twice because this stuff is about 1/2 thick as the stan strapping tape in thickness, but it works great on alum. rims and is cheap.

    Gorilla tape:
    We know people love this stuff, but there's 2 major complaints I've had about it. 1st is the sticky residue it leaves behind if you ever need to re-tape or sell the rim or work on the rim, etc, etc. It's a mess. You will spend 30min cleaning it with goo gone and scotch pad. It sucks. Then the next issue is with it, is its weight. If you are a enduro / big huck rider then stop reading, but if you race XC and worry about rotational weight it really is heavy. Don't think so? Order the roll from Enve which is the exact amount it takes to do 2x29 wheels. That roll literally weighs 92g. Now think about that. You spend all this time trying to save weight here and there and then you are going to add damn near 100g back to your wheelset. They (Enve) advertise their wheelset at 1410g, but by the time you add their gorilla tape it comes to 1500g.

    Gorilla Clear Repair tape:
    This is hands down my favorite tape, but it has some drawbacks. Lets start with the positive. If you have aluminum rims then this should be your goto stuff. IT's really weird.. It's like it's vinyl with the most sticky adhesive I've ever felt. Like pretty much if you are going to use it, plan on it being basically permanent. Its so sticky it's hard to get off your fingers when you are putting it down. This stuff does work excellent though on alum rims. The price is great. Another hard part about this tape is cutting it down to size. What I did was stretch out the tape and start at one side of the rim and lay it down with the other side hanging off. once all the way down I went around with a razor blade and cut off the excess.

    Now when it comes to carbon rims. I am scared to try this stuff. It's soo sticky that I am afraid it might f up the rim if i ever need to take it off.

    Again if you have alum rims, just get this stuff.. It will never peel up or let you down.

    update: 8/11/16 - Some have reported that at very high psi's (more than you would typically use for mtb tires, probably cx tires, that they are blowing out holes around the nipple holes. This can be resolved by using 2 layers of tape instead of just 1

    electrical tape:
    You can use it in a pinch, but it will eventually peel up.

    scott transparent duct tape:
    I have not used this, but am pretty curious about it after reading this guys thread on sealing up his fat bike with it. Seems like it would be semi close to the gorilla clear repair tape, but maybe not so permanent?
    Has anyone used this on carbon rims
    update 8/19/14 - I tried this on my enve's and it wasn't all that great. I thought it was going to be a home run as I layed it down but once i sealed up the tire it kept getting slow leaks and would lose about 10lbs a night. I popped the bead off and sure enough stans had leaked thru the overlap area. Trust me I put the tape down proper. I am very anal about that.

    velotape by velocity:
    I am really really curious to find out what kind of tape this is. Other than gorilla clear repair tape, this is the best tape i've used on alum. rims. Actually the bike shop had my bike for a warranty issue and when they gave it back the said my rear tire was leaking so they retaped it with this stuff. It's been on there 1yr and i've switched tires about 3x's on that bike. It never catches or pulls off like strapping tape does. It's really like a vinyl type tape. I would love to know exactly what kind of tape this stuff is.

    updated 8/19/14:
    Tyvek Home Wrap Tape/Sheathing Tape/aka seam tape:
    This has become my 2nd favorite tape so far. I still say if you want bomb proof go with the gorilla clear and you have aluminum rims. However, if you have carbon or are scared to use gcrt on your rims for fear of it becoming permanent then this should be your next tape. I am pretty sure this is what velocity velotape is. It's basically strapping tape that is more stretchy so it's easier to pull tight and get to lay all the way down. Great stuff and peels back up fairly descent if you need to redo the tire for any reason. I did 2 layers around a 29" rim and the weight came to 9g.
    (see bottom of post for most recent info)

    updated 4/12/16
    Kapton Tape - Fratelli Tape
    gmats was the first to post about this. The 1mil Kaptop tape basically used in electronics and other b.s. like that is more than likely the spank fratelli tape. Most users on here report pretty good luck. If you go to chain reaction and look at their user reviews of the tape, they are not the best reviews. I myself have not used it yet, but again others on this thread have.

    updated 11/30/16 - OK I've been using this brown kapton tape on my carbon wheels for a couple of months now after I put some new rubber on. My tyvek stuff peeled up fine, but I didn't feel like going out to get another roll and cutting it to size. So I gave this stuff a shot. It's great.. It has a little flex to it so it fits really nice down into the channel without getting those annoying air pockets. It seems to stick really well to the carbon surface so I am sure it will be just fine on aluminum. It comes in varied sizes and I am pretty sure you could get away with just 1 layer. It's so light though I do one layer one way and the other layer the other. So far after 2 months its been fine. This will probably be my future goto tape unless someone figures out what that velocity tape is. Nice find by gmats on this one.
    you can get it on amazon.


    Tesa 4289
    This is the tape that people say is exactly what Stans is. You can find it dirt cheap on amazon. The only issue i've had with stans tapes and as well as the 9998 tapes is that when they sit or are in the heat long the adhesive tends to wear off. I've even got rolls from amazon that were kind of warped and you could tell the warping was from them getting hot/cold/hot/cold int he warehouse and the adhesive coming undone.

    added 8/11/16
    Maxi 248 Polyester/Silicone Single Coated Splicing Tape
    I've been using this tape on all my wheels lately. I think bang for the buck and ease of use have this as the best deal you can get. I still like tyvek and gorilla clear, but you have to cut both those down. This stuff is cheap, just the right thickness, good adhesive, does not tend to peel up when dismounting a tire, and doesn't leave residue. You get enough to do ridiculous amount of wheels. You get so much that I use this to tape basically anything around the house. The bold title i have up there is for the 2" version which I cut down on the rim after going around with an xacto knife. However I found some 1" wide that is 2mil thick (the maxi 248 is 3.3mil thick). 1" X 72 Yds - Tapes Master 2 Mil Green Powder Coating Masking Tape - High Temperature <- I have not used this brand yet, but will probably buy it next when I run out of the maxi 248
    as of 11/30/16 I've switched my primary tape to the kapton. This stuff still works fine and is great. So you can't go wrong with this stuff either. I just feel that it's slightly easier to not have air pockets with the kapton vs. this. This is my 2nd fav. tape though.

    3M Construction Seaming Tape 8087 Red
    Tried this thinking it would be like my tyvek tape.. It wasn't. It didn't work to well for me and the sides peeled up when popping the bead to put more stans in.

    Frost King Clear Tape:
    6/25/19: updated
    So if you goto post #605 you will see the mention of this tape. I ordered some from amazon and was excited about it already being the correct size for most modern rims and that the poster had success on his rims (which keep in mind are aluminum). I gave it a shot on some brand new Enve rims that had never had tape on them. The tape laid down good, but as I was going around the tire I was thinking "damn this taking me forever to get back to where i started to overlapped. Well it turns out this tape does not stay stuck to carbon at all. Like when laying it down it seems like it was going to stick but the moment the wheel turned 90 degrees the tape would just fall off. I then tried it on my reynolds carbon rims, and the same thing. This tape does not work with carbon. Thus I'd only suggest it for aluminum rims and in that case if you have aluminum, i'd just use gorilla clear or this would be a 2nd runner up to that.
    This tape should only be used on aluminum rims.


    2/12/18: Update.
    Came back to check on thread and see if I needed to add any new entries. As of this date and doing lots of tires on different rims this is my personal observation. If you want the tape to last and peel up fine and have the best of both of those worlds, the Tyvek tape is the best. I find that it never peels up from the edge, but somehow is easy to peel off if you need to sell the rim. I find it the lightest and really the toughest. If you tape it right with this stuff you can literally just use 1 layer. I use 2 since its so light. The only sucky think about tyvek is that you have to cut it size. Which blows if you mess up while trying to cut it with a razor blade. It would be awesome if there was a way to outsource some company that could cut this down to 22mm size or whatever size you wanted.

    My 2nd choice would be kapton. It's dirt cheap and you can get it close to your size. I have found this to work on rims for 6-12months. Eventually it will peel up but most of you raw dawgs out there will be finished with a tire by then.

    3rd choice is the green poly tape. It's dirt cheap too.

    Tyvek ftw till I find something else.

    Let me know if I need to update, but for now I don't see a better tape IMO than tyvek.

    updated: 6/25/19
    Last edited by combfilter; 06-25-2019 at 10:05 AM. Reason: update

  2. #2
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    great post!
    the blue Scotch is 8898.
    8896 is ivory.
    not that it matters...

    I'm curious why you list the major drawbacks of Gorilla as being the sticky crap it leaves behind and weight, then your favorite tape is clear Gorilla, which you don't provide weight info for and describe as being "permanent." Have you ever tried to remove the clear stuff? How did it go? What does it weigh compared to Gorilla? How is the clear any better than regular Gorilla?
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    great post!
    the blue Scotch is 8898.
    8896 is ivory.
    not that it matters...

    I'm curious why you list the major drawbacks of Gorilla as being the sticky crap it leaves behind and weight, then your favorite tape is clear Gorilla, which you don't provide weight info for and describe as being "permanent." Have you ever tried to remove the clear stuff? How did it go? What does it weigh compared to Gorilla? How is the clear any better than regular Gorilla?
    gorilla clear repair tape weight is on par with velotape by velocity. about 20-40g.. I have removed it from a stans crest rim and was scared it was going to pull up paint, but it did not. It did not leave and residue behind like the normal gorilla tape does.

    go to home depot and check it out. Normal gorilla tape is more like a cloth style duct tape as you know. The gorilla clear is more like a vinyl strip or clear packing tape, but tougher, but not near as thick as regular gorilla tape. It is thicker though than lets say normal packing tape. The clear is also waterproof.. it's literally meant to like repair inflatable tubes and crap like that. It's awesome stuff.. Just scared to try it on carbon.

  4. #4
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    I don't always use tubeless, but the scotch filament tape works and pretty much comes all the way off if needed. You can snip the end to the width you need and the excess stays on the roll at that width, quick.. I do two layers so each side has the straight cut from the roll.
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  5. #5
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    I'm using gorilla tape atm, the 1" wide role comes in handy since dont have to tear it for my 29er. Not sure how much torn edge effects anything, did it on my sons 20" seems to work fine.

    Definitely going to check out the clr stuff. Figure heat gun will assist in removal should it become necessary.
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  6. #6
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Tagged for info.

    May finally go tubeless once my Ikons come in.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    gorilla clear repair tape weight is on par with velotape by velocity. about 20-40g.. I have removed it from a stans crest rim and was scared it was going to pull up paint, but it did not. It did not leave and residue behind like the normal gorilla tape does.

    go to home depot and check it out. Normal gorilla tape is more like a cloth style duct tape as you know. The gorilla clear is more like a vinyl strip or clear packing tape, but tougher, but not near as thick as regular gorilla tape. It is thicker though than lets say normal packing tape. The clear is also waterproof.. it's literally meant to like repair inflatable tubes and crap like that. It's awesome stuff.. Just scared to try it on carbon.
    good to know.

    I haven't had any adhesion issues with the 8898 on aluminum or carbon.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

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    Here's my Opinion on Gorilla tape (the black kind) used in ghetto-tubeless fashion:

    1. It's cheap - I bought 1 2" wide roll (maybe 8$???) and have done 5-6 wheels' worth and could easily do that many more from just one roll.
    2. It's easy - Easy to cut-to-width on the roll, easy to apply, easy to install valve stem. The threads in the tape make it a bit finicky, so it requires a bit of "finish" work for a perfect surface.
    3. It's heavy - Ex. For a DT Swiss EX500 rim (21mm inner width, similar to Stan's Arch EX), a couple layers, adds 50gr per wheel
    4. The adhesive will soften with Stan's sealant , but it doesn't completely fail. But it does not uniformly decompose either...
    5. Removal can be a *****.. it will pull the paint right off the rim in spots. Problem? probably not.. just cosmetic.
    6. It does not like to have tires repeatedly put on and taken off. So, I just redo it every time I change a tire - which is only when one is worn out.

    I can do a wheel in 10 minutes. I got my technique down. I don't be ticklin or nuthin.

    That said, I'm rebuildign the DTswiss EX500 wheels into Stan's Arch EX Wheels and will use Stan's tape.

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    I don't have any experience with it but seems like Orange Seal should make the list.
    Rim Tape — Orange Seal

    meltingfeather, where do you source the scotch tape? I believe Ibis is also using it on their carbon rims.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yogidave View Post
    Here's my Opinion on Gorilla tape (the black kind) used in ghetto-tubeless fashion:

    1. It's cheap - I bought 1 2" wide roll (maybe 8$???) and have done 5-6 wheels' worth and could easily do that many more from just one roll.
    2. It's easy - Easy to cut-to-width on the roll, easy to apply, easy to install valve stem. The threads in the tape make it a bit finicky, so it requires a bit of "finish" work for a perfect surface.
    3. It's heavy - Ex. For a DT Swiss EX500 rim (21mm inner width, similar to Stan's Arch EX), a couple layers, adds 50gr per wheel
    4. The adhesive will soften with Stan's sealant , but it doesn't completely fail. But it does not uniformly decompose either...
    5. Removal can be a *****.. it will pull the paint right off the rim in spots. Problem? probably not.. just cosmetic.
    6. It does not like to have tires repeatedly put on and taken off. So, I just redo it every time I change a tire - which is only when one is worn out.

    I can do a wheel in 10 minutes. I got my technique down. I don't be ticklin or nuthin.

    That said, I'm rebuildign the DTswiss EX500 wheels into Stan's Arch EX Wheels and will use Stan's tape.
    I agree and have experienced points 4,5,6 of your opinion here as well. I forgot to mention them above but yes the gorilla tape does soak up some of the sealant and it's not uniform on how it does it either. Yes about not liking tires removed. Another reason why gorilla clear repair is good. You can remove your tire 50x's with out it grabbing the lip of the tape and peeling it back.

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    OK, so the scotch clear duct tape didn't work out well on my enve's. It seemed like it would be good but stans can get between the over layer that you go over 3-4 inches after you completed your rounds.

    So I think I found out what velo tape is. I think it's the same tape as that tyvek home wrap. There's a few different brands out there. Here's some cool red ones http://www.amazon.com/Shurtape-HW-30...sheathing+tape

    So on that note I went and bought some from hd and basically it's like strapping tape but with much better adhesive and more stretchy like the velotape. So as you pull it, you can lay it down tight with no air bubbles and it sticks really well. I am real pleased with it so far and trust it enough that I went ahead an put it on my carbon rims. The only caveat i came across was when tightening the valve it grabbed some of the tape and ripped it.. Seems weird too because the tape is pretty tough. I removed it and it peeled up as easy as strapping tape and did not leave any residue. It's water proof and uses some acrylic style adhesive. I don't see it becoming permanent like i feel the gorilla clear could. I still say that gorilla clear repair tape is the best if you have aluminum rims and you want a sure seal with no bead grabbing the tape and pulling it up. I put this tyvek home wrap now in 2nd and it's what's going on my carbon wheels.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-20140819_085249.jpg

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    Lazy subscribing...

  13. #13
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    Just for completeness.....

    I taped the Arch EX wheel with stan's yellow tape per the instructions on their website - 1 layer with 4" overlap opposite the Valve hole.

    With the valve stem installed, the wheel weight increased from 891gr to 904gr on my postal scale --> 13gr increase.

    Recall that to do a standard rim (i.e. not one with a shallow bead depth like stans), you need to do a few layers of Gorilla tape Black. For a 21mm inner width 26" rim like the DT Swiss EX500, this adds 40-50gr before the valve stem - 49gr on the one I tested.

    Multiple layers of gorrilla-black will help lock in the bead by decreasing the depth to be more in line with a Stan's rim.

    Also, there's something to be said for just paying a little extra for *exact* width tape and not having to cut a 2" roll down yourself.

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    To compare apples to apples, how much would the Stan's tape weigh on a standard (non-Stan's) rim if you applied enough to build up the inner rim as you did with the gorilla tape? On another note, are you cutting the wide gorilla tape rather than simply purchasing the 1" width?
    I only used one layer of 1" gorilla tape on my light bicycle carbon rims with bead hooks and have been very happy. I haven't noticed any issues and have changed my tires numerous times in 1.5 yrs. of riding. I haven't had to deal with "sticky adhesive residue" when removing it since I don't plan on taking it off. I also have had other rims with Stan's tape in the past 5 yrs and never had tape come off unless I had to remove it to replace a spoke nipple. YMMV.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    To compare apples to apples, how much would the Stan's tape weigh on a standard (non-Stan's) rim if you applied enough to build up the inner rim as you did with the gorilla tape? On another note, are you cutting the wide gorilla tape rather than simply purchasing the 1" width?
    I only used one layer of 1" gorilla tape on my light bicycle carbon rims with bead hooks and have been very happy. I haven't noticed any issues and have changed my tires numerous times in 1.5 yrs. of riding. I haven't had to deal with "sticky adhesive residue" when removing it since I don't plan on taking it off. I also have had other rims with Stan's tape in the past 5 yrs and never had tape come off unless I had to remove it to replace a spoke nipple. YMMV.
    1" = 25.4mm. Rim inner width is 21mm, so I am cutting regardless of buying the 2" or 1".

    Bottom line is that you have to use enough tape to (adequately" seal a given tire on what ever rim you use. If that means 1 layer of Stan's yellow tape, or 3 layers of Gorilla Black, then that's what you need. I don't know what the optimum thickness (or layers needed) is to achieve a robust interface between rim bead and tire. However, part of the "system requirements" for running a non-tubeless rim (eg DT Swiss EX500) is to reduce the depth of the bead hook so that tire bead is firmly held in place with little/no gaps. This should (probably?) helps seal the tire.

    So lets say this for 2 rims, both with 21mm inner width:

    1: stans arch EX rim + yellow tape requires 1 layer of Stan's yellow tape and adds about 10gr

    2. DT Swiss EX500 rim + Gorilla Black (3x layers) adds about 40-50gr (say 15gr/layer). maybe you could do it with 2 and reduce the weight 15gr/wheel.

    I've never had Stan's rims before, so I'll report back with tire mounting experience and compare to ghetto tubeless on the DT EX500 in a few days.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    good to know.

    I haven't had any adhesion issues with the 8898 on aluminum or carbon.
    Thanks & good to know as well...

    I ordered a roll of 8896 to use on my LB carbon and Stan's aluminum rims from now on.
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  17. #17
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    I used bontrager strips on my bontrager wheels but I'm going to order the 8896 tape for my specialized wheels.

  18. #18
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    Where are you guys sourcing the 3M Scotch 8896 tape?

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    Why the hell can't more companies make something like the Bontrager hard plastic strips that don't leave messy residue, never leak or peal up, etc. I miss my Bontrager wheels BAD.

    Gorilla tape will peal up after 1-2 tire changes... just swapped to Stan's tape and hasn't peeled up after 3 changes so far, knock on wood...

  20. #20
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    Re: Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Where are you guys sourcing the 3M Scotch 8896 tape?
    Amazon.

  21. #21
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Why the hell can't more companies make something like the Bontrager hard plastic strips that don't leave messy residue, never leak or peal up, etc. I miss my Bontrager wheels BAD.

    Gorilla tape will peal up after 1-2 tire changes... just swapped to Stan's tape and hasn't peeled up after 3 changes so far, knock on wood...
    I decided not to go tubeless until I found out about the bontrager strips. It is reaaallly easy and made going tubeless a snap, pun intended.

  22. #22
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    No issues mounting tubeless on EX500 + black gorilla (sounds like a kind of pot!) or Arch + Stans yellow.

    Both air-up with a regular floor pump, albeit with some fast strokes. Both pop/ping as expected.

    Rim/tire combo:
    Stans Arch EX + Conti Trail King 2.2 (2 diff used tires) -- good o go
    DT Swiss EX500 + Maxxis Highroller 2 -- good to go

    Will be doing the stans wheel with a new Maxxis Highroller 2 in the next few days. I expect no issues.

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    Bead hook depth

    Interesting observation in comparing the two rims. The DT Swiss EX500 (on the right, below) measures in at about 6mm deep at the bead hook while the Arch EX (on the left, below)measures in at about half that.

    One of the net results of this is that the bead is harder to break in the stans rim. This helps in preventing burping on hard hits at low pressure. So, on a non-tubeless rim, id does make sense to use a thick layer(s) of tape to reduce the depth.

    Name:  Arch-EX-icon-rim.jpg
Views: 34176
Size:  22.0 KBTubeless Tape Thread-pro_ex500.png

    I think anything you can do to seal the bead tightly up against the beak hook will help. It may take trial and error for different tape and rim combinations and it might make sense to measure rim depth with a caliper to help figure out how much tape to use.

    BTW - Stan's Arch rim (with Stan's yellow tape) + Maxxis Highroller 2 2.4" 3C/EXO (not DH casing) seats easily with soapy water + a floor pump. Easy.

  24. #24
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    Tesa 4289 tape is the same tape used by Stan's. but Tesa comes in 66 meters length for the same price as Stan's set. found out about it on BikeMarkt.

    also, people say you can use lighter Tesa 4288 but didn't use it myself.

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    To clear things up a bit, Amazon only sells blue 8896 in 24mm and ivory 8898 in 24mm. Before reading this thread, i always thought 8898 was the one we wanted?

    At least thats what i bought and seems to work good enough.

  26. #26
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Impulse922 View Post
    To clear things up a bit, Amazon only sells blue 8896 in 24mm and ivory 8898 in 24mm. Before reading this thread, i always thought 8898 was the one we wanted?

    At least thats what i bought and seems to work good enough.
    Same tape... 8898 is blue and 8896 is ivory per 3M.
    Wouldn't be the first time an online vendor had a detail like that mixed up.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

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    What about American Classic tubeless tape, which has "proprietary polymer materials?" or Spank Fratelli tubeless ready tape which appears to be the same thing?

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    The Scotch 3M 8898 or 8896 works fine on the right width rim (ie tape goes bead to bead). The trick is preping the rim by cleaning all contaminants off it first with rubbing alcohol. But if you change your tires a lot, then something stickier is a better bet but for install and mount it works fine.

    For set and forget it is hard to beat Gorilla Tape. Yes removing it can suck (trick is to heat it up with a heat gun first and most of the goo will come up with the tape) and yes it weighs a few grams more. But for set and forget through multiple tire changes, it is bulletproof.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bike Whisperer View Post
    The Scotch 3M 8898 or 8896 works fine on the right width rim (ie tape goes bead to bead). The trick is preping the rim by cleaning all contaminants off it first with rubbing alcohol. But if you change your tires a lot, then something stickier is a better bet but for install and mount it works fine.

    For set and forget it is hard to beat Gorilla Tape. Yes removing it can suck (trick is to heat it up with a heat gun first and most of the goo will come up with the tape) and yes it weighs a few grams more. But for set and forget through multiple tire changes, it is bulletproof.
    My gorilla tape experience has been different... It pulls up and loses its seal after 1-2 tire changes

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    So I'm hearing some noise coming from my 29er Enve AM and I'm thinking it might be corroded nipples. Currently they're setup tubeless so I'm going to have to remove the tape before I can see. I know Enve use Gorilla tape so I picked up the 1" roll but when I compared it to the small bit I have left that came with my rims, I've noticed it's thinner by about 4mm. Is this going to pose a problem?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tape Thread-ykclfye.jpg  

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  31. #31
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    yesterday got that Tesa 4289 tape I talked about in my previous post.
    exactly the same tape that Stan's setup use, probably just rebranded. the difference is the Tesa tape comes at 66 meters length unit and Stan's come bearly enough for five times your rim...

    I'll use it today and post my findings.

  32. #32
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Hey all,

    I forget now who had suggested this tape (from these same MTBR forums), but I am using Clear Gorilla Repair tape cut to roughly 15mm on my 40mm Nextie Carbon Rims.

    So far it has been holding up well. My front rim is still using normal 1" Gorilla Tape, but it has "soaked" itself with Stans; when I removed the previous application from the rear, the tape was quite heavy and wet. When I am less lazy I will apply the clear Gorilla repair tape to the front too.





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  33. #33
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    yesterday I used Tesa 4289 tape for tubeless and after the day of hopping around mountain can say it is working with no problems whatsoever.

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    Thanks everyone for this thread! It was really helpful.

    I was able to convert some velocity aeroheat with 3M #L625 "tough duct tape". It's not light, but those aren't my race wheels. Tape, orange seal and go riding!

  35. #35
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    Frattelli ?

  36. #36
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by trees4me View Post
    Thanks everyone for this thread! It was really helpful.

    I was able to convert some velocity aeroheat with 3M #L625 "tough duct tape". It's not light, but those aren't my race wheels. Tape, orange seal and go riding!
    Duct & Gorilla are good that way; the trade off is the weight and when you have to deal with it again it will be a sticky nightmare of goo residue on your rim.

    Quote Originally Posted by hoolie View Post
    Frattelli ?
    Sorelle?
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  37. #37
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    Interesting thread - subscribed
    By the way I often change rear tires to suit conditions and tend to use the same front tire- and I am using Stans (expensive but holds great) on the rear wheels and Roval (cheaper but weaker adhesive) on front wheels :-)
    flyMTBfish

  38. #38
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    I use STANS on my 29er WTB i23 rims. Works great. My new 26er rims are SPANK OOZY 295, with Fratelli tape. Rims are being assembled now, but I have not tried the Fratelli tape yet. Curious to know anyone's experience. I don't have a good reason to stop using STANS yellow tape. Great thread everyone. I find this interesting and informative.

  39. #39
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    Stan's tape is great. but if you like that use Tesa 4289 tape as it is the same, and I really mean same exact tape. the thing is Stan's package comes with 4, 5 wheels length and Tesa's come in 66 meters length for the same or very similar price.

    I used both Tesa and Stan's tapes and it really is the same material.

    Quote Originally Posted by hoolie View Post
    I use STANS on my 29er WTB i23 rims. Works great. My new 26er rims are SPANK OOZY 295, with Fratelli tape. Rims are being assembled now, but I have not tried the Fratelli tape yet. Curious to know anyone's experience. I don't have a good reason to stop using STANS yellow tape. Great thread everyone. I find this interesting and informative.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan_d View Post
    Hey all,

    I forget now who had suggested this tape (from these same MTBR forums), but I am using Clear Gorilla Repair tape cut to roughly 15mm on my 40mm Nextie Carbon Rims.

    So far it has been holding up well. My front rim is still using normal 1" Gorilla Tape, but it has "soaked" itself with Stans; when I removed the previous application from the rear, the tape was quite heavy and wet. When I am less lazy I will apply the clear Gorilla repair tape to the front too.



    Bryan
    Read Post #1 of this thread. It was mentioned/reviewed. Looks like you had the balls to use it on carbon, which really should be fine.

  41. #41
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    This is a great post. Great info OP. I too have had great success with the black gorilla tape for some time but it is heavy. I've sort of resorted to that for the reliability for now.

    Anyone ever try this?
    1 Mil Kapton Tapes

    We've used it for years for insulating our electronics and exhibits many great properties with heat mitigation and durability. I just have not yet had the nerve to try it in my rim. It is very light though and the adhesive works great. It also is "slippery" in that the bead and tire doesn't seem like it'd get hung up.

    Anyway, just wondering if anyone else try it "yet".

    Aloha.

  42. #42
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    Ok, my bike facebook page a couple of guys were saying that Gorilla tape, at higher PSI will expand into the spoke hole and rupture. Anyone with experience here?

    What about Gorilla getting mushy? Won't this cause it to allow air in?

    Does the clear gorilla tape react to the sealant like the black stuff? Does it get mushy and such?

    And finally, ashas has posted several times about the Tesa tape. Anyone else try this stuff? ashas says it is identical, but just curious if it truly is as in how does it react to the sealant?

    This post rocks. I just got my new bike and tried converting it to tubeless (my other bike was my first time and I had zero issues) and I kept having leaking around the valve. Couple of things I remembered I did differently that might help this thread
    -It was cold and I was having issues with Stan's tape sticking (it would not). The last bike I did it in the summer when it was crazy hot.
    -I used "green stuff" cleaner to clean the wheels. Last time I used alcohol. Wonder if the green stuff cleaner left some type of residue also.

  43. #43
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Clear stuff does not react to sealant, however it cannot take much pressure and it will stretch to the point of tearing if you only use one layer.

    I have purchased the Kapton tape but I have not installed it yet. I just hope the adhesive is a good one because the 3M Stans wannabe will not stick to my carbon rims.

    Bryan
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  44. #44
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    I've been using the 3M 8898 tape for a couple of months on my LB 35mm rims. It has held up well, no leaks. And I didn't exactly get it on perfectly, just tried to make sure it stuck. My wheels lost about 2lbs of pressure this last week.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by objectuser View Post
    I've been using the 3M 8898 tape for a couple of months on my LB 35mm rims. It has held up well, no leaks. And I didn't exactly get it on perfectly, just tried to make sure it stuck. My wheels lost about 2lbs of pressure this last week.
    Losing 2lb of pressure is holding up well? In my experience the with Ibis rims the 8898 with one round didn't stick. It also failed by stretching and popping into the inner spoke holes. I've been using two or three rounds. And as bike whisperer suggest, thoroughly cleaning the rim is key. I never worried about that with stans tape which seems to be more sticky.

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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Losing 2lb of pressure is holding up well?
    in a week? Yes.
    It's likely the tires and not the tape that would drive this. Your experience with 8898 is interesting... certainly different from mine. I've been setting up tubeless tires with it exclusively for about two years I'd guess with zero problems. Since I build wheels in my spare time I do more set ups than your average rider. I'm still on my first roll and have set up maybe a couple of dozen wheelsets with it.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  47. #47
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    @ashas,
    where did you get the Tesa 4289? Local hw store? Most sources seem to sell bulk.

    anyone compare 4298 to 4289?

    for tubeless-ready rims, is the issue just covering the spoke holes, and not building the bead bed?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    in a week? Yes.
    It's likely the tires and not the tape that would drive this. Your experience with 8898 is interesting... certainly different from mine. I've been setting up tubeless tires with it exclusively for about two years I'd guess with zero problems. Since I build wheels in my spare time I do more set ups than your average rider. I'm still on my first roll and have set up maybe a couple of dozen wheelsets with it.
    I believe Ibis was initially using 3M 6409 Blue 471. I'm not sure if that was what was initially on my rims or not. I had assumed it was 8898 but dug up that info that that was what they were using last spring. I've since used 8898 on the same rims but did a double wrap just in case.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    I don't have any experience with it but seems like Orange Seal should make the list.
    Rim Tape — Orange Seal
    Orange Seal is the tape I will be using on my next build of carbon wheels per the recommendation of the rim supplier Derby. This is directly from the web-site.

    " The best most effective tape I've found is Orange Seal 18mm wide tape. It can be found for $10 to $12 (MSRP) on-line. One roll is enough for 4 rims, one round.

    Another option is using one round of Stan's 12mm wide tape and adding another round of 3/4 inch (18mm) wide plastic tape over the narrow Stans, such as electricians black tape.

    Using tape wall to wall is not needed, this can be too tight, and not seal as well with good quality tires. Only the spoke holes need to be sealed with good sticky tape, 3/4 inch or 18mm wide in the center channel. Derby Rims don't burp with tape only in the center channel, using every tire I've heard of. No one has ever complained about burps."
    10 TransAM SS
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  50. #50
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    I had Stan's 12mm tape double wrapped for nine months, sealant was beginning to migrate under the tape.



    I replaced it with Orange Seal 18mm also wrapped twice. After seven months the OS tape is sealed well, so I see no need to wrap with fresh tape this time. The current tire I mounted is very stiff and has a tight bead circle, yet the tape edge didn't roll when pushing one side of the tire back over the bead lock after initially setting the beads with a tube. The Orange Seal tape also survived being repeatedly jabbed with a stick, which had punctured the former tire. I rode with the 1.5 inch length, .25 inch OD stick buried to the end for quite a ways before finding a safe place to dismount.

  51. #51
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    Any other experiences with the clear gorilla tape?

    I am still wanting to know where you can get this tesa tape.

  52. #52
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    Here are two rolls for tessa on ebay.
    If you are in the US like me, it will be coming from the United Kingdom.
    Tesa 4289 | eBay

    Trying to decide if I want the 19mm or the 25mm

    EDIT: Just went ahead and ordered the 19mm.
    If I have no luck with this, i will keep an eye on this thread, my next choice will be clear gorilla.
    If that bombs, then i will just pony up and get the stans again

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Any other experiences with the clear gorilla tape?

    I am still wanting to know where you can get this tesa tape.
    I used clear Gorilla tape when converting my wife's bike to Tubeless. It lays down sooo much easier than Stans, really is a piece of cake.

    Only advice I have is to make sure your hands are clean of debris, this tape really picks up everything.
    I bike with tires.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by cardnation View Post
    I used Gorilla tape when converting my wife's bike to Tubeless. It lays down sooo much easier than Stans, really is a piece of cake.

    Only advice I have is to make sure your hands are clean of debris, this tape really picks up everything.
    Did you use the clear gorilla tape?
    I am really curious what this stuff looks like after awhile since the normal tape seems to soak it up and "loosen" up.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Did you use the clear gorilla tape?
    I am really curious what this stuff looks like after awhile since the normal tape seems to soak it up and "loosen" up.
    Yes the clear. Sorry about that, I've edited my post to make the distinction.

    The clear tape is nothing like normal Gorilla and I really do mean nothing. Normal Gorilla is more of a cloth and porous.

    If I was to describe the clear. I would say it is almost exactly like packing tape, except that it is a tad thicker and pliable/rubbery.
    I bike with tires.

  56. #56
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    awesome thanks.
    have you taken the wheels off your wife's bike yet to see how the sealant is interacting with the tape?

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    awesome thanks.
    have you taken the wheels off your wife's bike yet to see how the sealant is interacting with the tape?
    I've not had a reason to do so, since it is not losing pressure. This stuff is so sticky, I can't imagine it being affected.
    I bike with tires.

  58. #58
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    I ordered the tessa tape. I will let everyone know how it goes when it gets here next week or so.

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    ok, so the Tesa 4289 roll came in the mail from the UK

    Tubeless Tape Thread-20141226_140427.jpg
    Tubeless Tape Thread-20141226_140435.jpg

    At first glance it looked identical. So I started to wrap my wheels.
    I went ahead and wrapped each wheel 3 times around only because the last time I had so much trouble. Took me 2 hours because I was extra cautious about removing all air bubbles and such.
    Wheels look ready, but I do not have time to get them setup any further, I will finish the setup tomorrow.

    After cleaning up, I compared two strips. In the pic below is the Stan's tape on the left, and the tesa tape on the right.
    The stan's tape is clearly thicker.
    Tubeless Tape Thread-20141226_205308.jpg

    My concern now is if the tape will hold up around the spoke holes to high PSI (I do not run low PSI tubeless). I have read posts before where people thought that certain ghetto tapes would blow out at higher PSI. I went 3 times around, so hoping not.

    If this does not work, I will just go with the clear gorilla tape. Thinking of putting a single layer over this just for the hell of it.

    What do you guys think?

  60. #60
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    double
    Last edited by M1_joel; 09-14-2015 at 08:27 PM.

  61. #61
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    lardo5150, you really overkilled it with three layers on each wheel. but safe is safe, I get that.

    one more thing - from the pic of Stan's and 4289 tapes, I'd say your Tesa tape is narrower than Stans which is not the case with the one I used. there seems to be different versions of 4289 tape because the one I used is 25mm wide (as Stan's tape) and is not this transparent when I put it against the surface like yours is.

    just wanted to say I used one layer on each wheel (Flow Ex rims) on Spesh tires and run between 1,8 - 2,5 bars on them depending what I ride that day and had no problems whatsoever.

  62. #62
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    Ashas, yes mine is 19mm.
    I have used the 21mm of Stan's in the past. Never tried the 25mm, and the Tesa tape was only available in 19 or 25, so I just ordered the 19. The Stan's in my pic is 21.

    Thanks for the info, I will have to do my google bars to psi converstion, lol.

    I will get the tires set today, and let you know how it goes.

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    Just to add, I usually run around 35 PSI, just a tad bit more than you.

  64. #64
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    sorry, I'm european so I just wrote in bar's

    I'm guessing you're using a rim with less than 25mm inner width and that's why you used that 19mm tape. if I'm wrong, I strongly recommend getting 25mm 4289 tape next time.

    looking forward to see how the setup held...

  65. #65
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    It is the standard rim that comes with the Diamondback Overdrive Pro.
    Serious question, does it matter, just as long as the spoke holes are covered? I believe I measured it from lip to lip, and it is exactly 25mm.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumperington View Post
    @ashas,
    where did you get the Tesa 4289? Local hw store? Most sources seem to sell bulk.

    anyone compare 4298 to 4289?

    for tubeless-ready rims, is the issue just covering the spoke holes, and not building the bead bed?
    hey sorry for this late reply, I didn't check forum for few weeks.

    I got the tape from my local Tesa distributor for free.
    he also sell in bulks (whole package has at least 24 units).

    he had couple of units laying around as specimens and he gave me one free because I called him on phone and he didn't believe I want to use it as air sealant tool for tubeless system on a bike

    he also told me to contact him when I need more of it, so that's great...

    I already posted I learned about the tape on MTB-News.de, german bike portal that has huge community forum wise, but also great buy/sell portal called Bike Markt (link goes to Tesa tape offers).

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    It is the standard rim that comes with the Diamondback Overdrive Pro.
    Serious question, does it matter, just as long as the spoke holes are covered? I believe I measured it from lip to lip, and it is exactly 25mm.
    Quote Originally Posted by thumperington View Post
    @ashas,
    for tubeless-ready rims, is the issue just covering the spoke holes, and not building the bead bed?

    I don't think the width matters, somebody here put narrow tape on a 40mm carbon rim and seems he doesn't have any problems.

    on Flow Ex the width is 25mm as the tape itself so I had to watch out to not get in the way of the hook on the rim, nothing else. I think you're good with 19mm tape.
    at least you'll find out about that pretty soon

    good luck with set-uping. let us know how it went.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashas View Post
    sorry, I'm european so I just wrote in bar's

    I'm guessing you're using a rim with less than 25mm inner width and that's why you used that 19mm tape. if I'm wrong, I strongly recommend getting 25mm 4289 tape next time.

    looking forward to see how the setup held...

    Here is my rim with the 3 layers of the tesa. I have never used the 25mm, even on the old bike that had zero issues getting setup tubeless.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-20141227_054802.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-20141227_054822.jpg

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashas View Post
    hey sorry for this late reply, I didn't check forum for few weeks.

    I got the tape from my local Tesa distributor for free.
    he also sell in bulks (whole package has at least 24 units).

    he had couple of units laying around as specimens and he gave me one free because I called him on phone and he didn't believe I want to use it as air sealant tool for tubeless system on a bike

    he also told me to contact him when I need more of it, so that's great...

    I already posted I learned about the tape on MTB-News.de, german bike portal that has huge community forum wise, but also great buy/sell portal called Bike Markt (link goes to Tesa tape offers).
    Ya, I could not find it in the US. Amazon had it in bulk for like 700 bucks which defeated the purpose of saving money LOL.
    I got it from this guy, Tesa 4289 No Tubes Tubeless Rim Tape 19mm Wide x 66M Long | eBay
    fast shipping considering it came from the UK.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Here is my rim with the 3 layers of the tesa. I have never used the 25mm, even on the old bike that had zero issues getting setup tubeless.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    this looks very good.
    if you had good experiences with 19mm tape before, I don't see why that would change now.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by ashas View Post
    this looks very good.
    if you had good experiences with 19mm tape before, I don't see why that would change now.
    it was the 21mm before. in mm that is not that much wider. Ya, the first bike went great.
    I really think the issue I had before this with the new bike is its cold here and I was having issues getting the tape to stick. Plus, for whatever reason, me being a dummy I cleaned the rims with a cleaner instead of alcohol and I think it left a film.

    I will let you know how it goes.
    In my google search I think I saw the same post you saw where someone mentioned this was the same tape.

  72. #72
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    The tape seems to be holding just fine right now.
    I got the tires setup last night, but have not taken the bike for a ride.
    I will say, without going into a long backstory, I ended up putting an o-ring on the stem as well, on the inside of the rim to add more of a seal.

    Once I go for a ride i will let everyone know how it is holding. I currently have 35 psi in them.

  73. #73
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    I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?

  74. #74
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?
    That's hardcore man.

    I just grab a box cutter, elevate it horizontally on whatever object can stabilize it at the height I want (peanut butter lid in my case) then I just spun the tape on the knife edge.

    Cylinders and table-saws just put a funny feeling in my tummy.

    Bryan
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    I would use a fence and a push stick. But perhaps I'll try your method first

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?
    I did mine like this pic:
    https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb8465542/p4pb8465542.jpg

    The only difference was I used an xacto knife.. Do this method and really just take your time. Once you go around it once it makes a groove that is easy for you to keep the blade in. Just go around a few more times until your blade goes pretty far in there. I went to fast on my first gorilla clear and screwed up. I learned my lesson because yes that tyvek tape is 12-14.00. I love it though. That's been my goto tape now.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmats View Post
    This is a great post. Great info OP. I too have had great success with the black gorilla tape for some time but it is heavy. I've sort of resorted to that for the reliability for now.

    Anyone ever try this?
    1 Mil Kapton Tapes

    We've used it for years for insulating our electronics and exhibits many great properties with heat mitigation and durability. I just have not yet had the nerve to try it in my rim. It is very light though and the adhesive works great. It also is "slippery" in that the bead and tire doesn't seem like it'd get hung up.

    Anyway, just wondering if anyone else try it "yet".

    Aloha.
    Dude, I think you found out what tape is the AC and Spank Fratelli tapes are!. It's pretty much looks like that stuff.

    Nice find. Let us know how it lays down on the rim, what type of rim you put it on, and how well it works.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    Ok, my bike facebook page a couple of guys were saying that Gorilla tape, at higher PSI will expand into the spoke hole and rupture. Anyone with experience here?

    What about Gorilla getting mushy? Won't this cause it to allow air in?

    Does the clear gorilla tape react to the sealant like the black stuff? Does it get mushy and such?

    And finally, ashas has posted several times about the Tesa tape. Anyone else try this stuff? ashas says it is identical, but just curious if it truly is as in how does it react to the sealant?

    This post rocks. I just got my new bike and tried converting it to tubeless (my other bike was my first time and I had zero issues) and I kept having leaking around the valve. Couple of things I remembered I did differently that might help this thread
    -It was cold and I was having issues with Stan's tape sticking (it would not). The last bike I did it in the summer when it was crazy hot.
    -I used "green stuff" cleaner to clean the wheels. Last time I used alcohol. Wonder if the green stuff cleaner left some type of residue also.
    First, I'd just stay away from regular gorilla tape all together. The residue sucks, it's heavy, and it works ok, but there's better tapes out there that wont add 100g of rotational weight to your wheels.

    Gorilla clear is in a different league than regular gorilla tape. It's more like vinyl but with a crazy adhesive. Just take your time cutting it to size. The good thing about it is that it's cheap. I am still too scared to use it with my carbon enve's. It's that sticky.

    As far as cleaning your rims with simple green. Just use a blow dryer and heat up all the old tape and glue and wipe all that off. Use a scotch pad and alcohol to really clean up the rim and let that all evaporate. That should be it.

    I bet what happened is the same stupid thing I did with my "orange clean" degreaser.. I used that to get old gorilla tape residue off and didn't realize that by spraying that directly onto the rim that I was letting that stuff get into the nipple hole. I'd then tape the wheel and the tape would come un done or leak. I finally realized there was leftover orange clean trapped inside where the nipple hole was that was causing my tape to come un done. Now I just use alcohol and a blow dryer.

  79. #79
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    Fratelli tape and Kapton tape

    I had used the split tube method for a few years, and this year decided to try tape instead for a new set of wheels. I bought the Fratelli tape from CRC, and when I received it I saw that it looked identical to the kapton tape I have used at work. The Fratelli label said the material is polyimide, which is the same as kapton. There was not much length to the roll, probably around 5 yards for $15. So I bought a couple of 1"x36yard rolls of 1mil kapton tape on Amazon, $14 each. Looks identical. Since March 2014 I have one wheel taped up with the Fratelli tape, and one wheel taped up with the kapton tape. I used two layers on each rim, following the description from this thread:
    Spank spike race28 - Pinkbike Forum

    I am using 26" Spank Spike Race 28 EVO rims, with Schwalbe Magic Mary supegravity tires. The tires aired up with a compressor right away, and held air with no sealant overnight. I did put sealant in the next day. The setup has been working really well, no air loss at all. I have swapped out the front tire once, and the rear 3 times without re-taping. So far, no issues.

  80. #80
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?
    The people who have tried that can't type anymore.
    A tablesaw is not going to work and be very dangerous. Use a razor blade.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  81. #81
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    I've used Kapton and PET tape with success on LB rims. One rim with PEt and the other with Kapton.
    I purchased both from DX. It was abut $5 a roll (30 metres).
    I used 2 wraps just to be safe. No issues so far in 8 months of use.

  82. #82
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    Kapton sounds like the business - silicone adhesive with no mess sounds great to me. Plus I have spank oozy trail 295 rims and kapton is what they sell / recomment.

    I see it in 1mil 1.5mil, 2mil and 2.7mil thickness. Bonus points for any one who finds out what the thickness used by spank / american classic and even more bonus points for cheapest source.

    So far I have found
    Polyimide Tape - Kapton Tape - Masking Tapes - Soldering Tape

    Tapes master on Amazon is about same

    Can tape a while with shipping from Hong Kong but the price is right -
    Gold Finger High Temperature Adhesive Tape - 24mm x 33m Roll

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    I just picked up some tyvek house wrap tape. How do you guys cut down this wide tape? I've just wasted a bunch and at 13 bucks a roll I'd like to not totally waste a bunch of it. I had a thought that I should just set up my tablesaw with a fence and cut it to width that way? anybody here done such a thing?
    I've done something similar with a bandsaw. It was a much wider roll of specialty tape though, probably like 12", like a paper towel sized roll. It worked surprisingly good. In this case I would imagine cutting off such a thin section would be sketchy.

  84. #84
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    I've got 29mm inner width rims. I'm struggling to find tape that exact width and know from my arts and craft skills, I won't be able to cut tape accurately. Last bike I used stans 21mm tape on 21mm rims, worked perfectly and I had zero issues. I'm hoping to duplicate that success if possible.

    So.. Do I need 29mm tape, or will 25mm tape work? Do the holes just have to be covered, or does the tape to tire bead seal give the best results?

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyotatacomaTRD View Post
    I've got 29mm inner width rims. I'm struggling to find tape that exact width and know from my arts and craft skills, I won't be able to cut tape accurately. Last bike I used stans 21mm tape on 21mm rims, worked perfectly and I had zero issues. I'm hoping to duplicate that success if possible.

    So.. Do I need 29mm tape, or will 25mm tape work? Do the holes just have to be covered, or does the tape to tire bead seal give the best results?
    If you have tubeless rim (sealed seam) the it's only the holes that need covering.

    If you look on the Derby site they use 15mm (or close) tape to seal their 35mm inner rim.

    Bryan
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    On wider rims only covering the spoke holes may work, but on narrower rims the tire bead upsets the tape, causing leaks and the need to retape. Rim channels vary across different wheels, but for my current WTB I23 rims they are 23 mm inner diameter and the tape specific to this rim from WTB is 28 mm, so +5 mm might be a good starting point for those trying to buy the right width tape without having to cut it to size.

  87. #87
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    I need something to replace the crappy Gorilla duct tape that keeps tearing and no longer seals my Arch EX rim. I have a ride on Sunday so I don't have time to wait for something on Ebay and I would rather avoid expensive Stan's tape. What can I pick up at Home Depot or something? Anyone have experience with Super Glue EZ Fuse tape?Super Glue, 1 in. x 10 ft. Black E-Z Fuse Silicone Tape, 15408-6 at The Home Depot - Mobile (sku1000894281 on homedpot.com)
    Last edited by mack_turtle; 03-28-2015 at 05:50 AM.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    I need something to replace the crappy Gorilla duct tape that keeps tearing and no longer seals my Arch EX rim. I have a ride on Sunday so I don't have time to wait for something on Ebay and I would rather avoid expensive Stan's tape. What can I pick up at Home Depot or somethung? Anyone have experience with Super Glue EZ Fuse tape?Super Glue, 1 in. x 10 ft. Black E-Z Fuse Silicone Tape, 15408-6 at The Home Depot - Mobile (sku1000894281 on homedpot.com)
    Silicone tapes only fuse to themselves and have no adhesive, I don't know how well they would work on a rim. If I were in a pinch and needed something quick I would use something like this: Staples® Fiberglass Filament Tape | Staples®

  89. #89
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    Home depot has tyvek tape. I don't rave about it like others as I had some issues getting it to seal but it could have been user error too. The issue for me is cutting the hole for the valve

  90. #90
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    I've got good results with Tyvek. I'm punching small hole for valve using marker punch or whatever it's called. Just big enough to push valve stem through so tape has plenty of area to seal against stem's rubber cone.

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  91. #91
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    Thanks to all for this thread. After spending $20/roll for Stans tape at the LBS, I decided to look around. Here is a summary of what I ended up doing:

    I could not find the Tesa 4289 tape (Stan's equivalent) in the USA, so I compared the specs on Scotch 8896 (blue) and 8898 (ivory). Both are tensilized polypropylene with a natural rubber backing. The Tesa is 5.9 mils thick, and the Scotch is 4.6.

    The 8896 and 8898 24mm wide x 55m long are available for about $6.50 delivered from Amazon prime.

    I needed 21mm width. I tried clamping a razor knife to a cutting board, shimming it to the proper position with some old credit cards, but was not happy with the results. I ended up cutting the whole roll on the table saw. I feel it can be done safely as per the photo. Throw away the first few outer layers and the remaining tape is nearly perfect.

    It looks, feels, and applies exactly like the Stans as near as I can tell.

    According to the specs, it is best if used within 18 months. I put it in a zip-lock bag and threw it in the refrigerator.

    I tried some Kapton tape first, because it was available in 19mm width which is close enough. However, I could not get it to seal around the valve stem.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-cutting-tape.jpg
    You could cut out an an E-shaped finger guard instead of the single stick I used here.

    http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/8...-tape-8896.pdf

    http://www.packagingtapeinc.com/pact.../tesa_4289.pdf

    Amazon.com: Scotch Film Strapping Tape 8898 Ivory, 24 mm x 55 m (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific

    http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-St...ds=scotch+8896

  92. #92
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    this is my taping experience. I cleaned the rims before hand with Coleman camp fuel and then 99% alcohol...really clean. I started with the standard Gorilla Tape cut down to width with an exacto knife. It worked okay but needed to be replaced as the tire bead would push the tape edge and peel it up. Also the gorilla tape delaminated and left terrible residue. Then I switched to LB carbon rims and the gorilla tape was so sticky in places that it actually removed very small carbon fibers. So that was the end of gorilla tape.

    I bought 25mm 3M 8898 when people said it was Stans. Its not. It is stiffer and does not mold into the center channel near as well as Stans. As well I had failure of the tape when it split at a nipple hole. I have resorted to layering in a couple wraps of 12mm fiberglass tape over the holes and then wrapping the 25mm 8898 over it. Also the 8898 doesn't stick that well to itself so it would leak at the overlap back to the valve stem even though the overlap was 6 inches long. So I tape over the overlap with a couple inches of gorilla. Phew!! And the 8898 does not peel off in one piece, separating into fibers and leaving residue.

    I guess the next is Tesa 4289 which everybody says is Stans but I will believe it when I see it. Or to Kapton. The search continues.

  93. #93
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    Sorry the 8898 didn't work out for you. Where did you get yours? It doesn't seem like the sort of thing someone would counterfeit. Is the inside of the spool printed with the Scotch logo & model#? As I recall mine came in a sealed wrapper.

    If it's old I can see the glue losing adhesion. Maybe the plastic would get brittle over time.

    Mine's still doing fine. I had the tire off to check the goo before a race, and the tape looked fine. I didn't go trying to peel it up tho .

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    this is my taping experience. I cleaned the rims before hand with Coleman camp fuel and then 99% alcohol...really clean. I started with the standard Gorilla Tape cut down to width with an exacto knife. It worked okay but needed to be replaced as the tire bead would push the tape edge and peel it up. Also the gorilla tape delaminated and left terrible residue. Then I switched to LB carbon rims and the gorilla tape was so sticky in places that it actually removed very small carbon fibers. So that was the end of gorilla tape.

    I bought 25mm 3M 8898 when people said it was Stans. Its not. It is stiffer and does not mold into the center channel near as well as Stans. As well I had failure of the tape when it split at a nipple hole. I have resorted to layering in a couple wraps of 12mm fiberglass tape over the holes and then wrapping the 25mm 8898 over it. Also the 8898 doesn't stick that well to itself so it would leak at the overlap back to the valve stem even though the overlap was 6 inches long. So I tape over the overlap with a couple inches of gorilla. Phew!! And the 8898 does not peel off in one piece, separating into fibers and leaving residue.

    I guess the next is Tesa 4289 which everybody says is Stans but I will believe it when I see it. Or to Kapton. The search continues.

    Good Lord, is a roll of Stans so freaking expensive to make it worth all of that^?!

  95. #95
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    hello. just been reading these threads. i'm about to tape up a HED big ride rim set.

    interesting stuff. summary: adhesives tend to be acrylic or rubber based. then tape are various materials with various conformation properties and elongation. It seems the stronger adhesive tapes folk mention use acrylic based adhesives (im not sure what tyvek tape uses), tapes such as the tesa and stans seem to lack some stretch to me - they are polyporp - so might not be ideal over the exposed nipples of single wall rims such as the HEDS. the tesa 4288 and 4289 have a rubber adhesive.

    the 3m 8898 is polyprop with a synthetic rubber resin adhesive. again, this might explain the reports of less adhesiveness. no idea what clear gorilla tape is.


    3m 471 was mentioned: it is vinyl, conformable, but thin. it uses a rubber adhesive. i'm guessing it might deform around stuff well?

    i was wonderign about using tape such as 3m 'scotchguard' tape…

    product data here - http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/9...%202014_R4.pdf

    i suspect it might be a bit thin for just one layer (~ 0.2mm) but wondered if anyone had any experience of it? it seems like it would be like thin 'helicopter' tape. 3m 8671 seems to be the 'copter tape of choice…available in bike friendly widths and lengths. it is acrylic adhesive polyurethane tape, 0.36mm thick, puncture and abrasion resistant. (specs here http://=http://www.vikingindustrial....pdf/8671hs.pdf)

    different sizes: http://=http://www.vikingtapes.co.uk...| Viking Tapes

    there is also 3m 480 poly ethylene tape - very thin, but designed as a comforming protection tape - with an acryllic adhesive. dont know much about that stuff…

    i've used helicopter tape on carbon components to prevent rub and it seems to adhere well.

    ok: that was an hours reading on my behalf and i thought id distill my thoughts in case it helps anyone else. if i try with any of the thin plyurethane tapes ill let you know how it goes.

    edit: just a wee bit more: from the tesa site about different adhesives…

    Exploring Adhesives Used in PSA Tapes - The tesa Technology Journal - tesa tape North America
    Last edited by dRjOn; 06-03-2015 at 08:00 AM.
    For a rock steady Gas Tank bag > the DeWidget

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  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Good Lord, is a roll of Stans so freaking expensive to make it worth all of that^?!
    Stans is a bit of a ripoff at the price charged for how much you get. I have a lot of bikes, a lot of wheels and I ride a lot so yes it would be worth it to find something that was more economical. Maybe during that process I might even find something better and could share that with the rest of you. If I don't then well I guess I will buck up like the rest and buy the Stans. In the meantime the process of discovery and curiosity is kind of fun. Don't get me started on sealant formulas :-)

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisF View Post
    Sorry the 8898 didn't work out for you. Where did you get yours? It doesn't seem like the sort of thing someone would counterfeit. Is the inside of the spool printed with the Scotch logo & model#? As I recall mine came in a sealed wrapper.

    If it's old I can see the glue losing adhesion. Maybe the plastic would get brittle over time.

    Mine's still doing fine. I had the tire off to check the goo before a race, and the tape looked fine. I didn't go trying to peel it up tho .
    I bought my 8898 tape last year from Amazon. I will have to look at the roll again and the logo. My 8898 certainly doesn't feel like or work like Stans. Close but not the same in my opinion.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    I bought my 8898 tape last year from Amazon. I will have to look at the roll again and the logo. My 8898 certainly doesn't feel like or work like Stans. Close but not the same in my opinion.
    Same experience here. The 8898 tape is noticeably thinner than Stan's. I also find that it leaves more residue when removed. I use two layers since it's thin, and that often causes the top layer to shift around when changing tires. Overall, besides expense, Stan's has been better for me.

  99. #99
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    Hello, if I want to set up my new 30mm ID rims with kapton tape, do I use narrower (20mm) tape, or full width tape (30mm)? Does it matter? I'll be running specialized 2bliss ready tires.

  100. #100
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    I'm about to tape up a set of DT BR710 rims for tubeless. I'll be using the DT rim strips, with two wraps of 2"-ish wide tape, overlapping in the middle, covering bead seat to bead seat.

    Debating between Tyvek and clear Gorilla tape.

    The DT rim strip seems stronger/stiffer then Surly's plastic ones, and is a woven fabric molded in a plastic/rubber strip...

    Thoughts?

  101. #101
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    I'll never again use tape that isn't residue free. Gorilla Tape was a huge pain to remove, and the clear repair tape was much worse.

  102. #102
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    How is this thread still going, taping a rim is really not hard. Stans works, gorilla tape works. Gorilla tape is easily torn lengthwise and residue isn't bad.

  103. #103
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    I had great luck with the 3M 8898 tape. I had one split out of the 10 rims I've taped so far, but it was from stretching it too much. I felt the tape was easy enough to work with, and do not have any leak issues that I can tell. I do have the bubbling in my spool of tape, but that's not been any indicator of poor adhesion in my experience. Maybe when this roll wears out after another fifty or so rims, Ill try the kapton tape next time.

  104. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Good Lord, is a roll of Stans so freaking expensive to make it worth all of that^?!
    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    Stans is a bit of a ripoff at the price charged for how much you get. I have a lot of bikes, a lot of wheels and I ride a lot so yes it would be worth it to find something that was more economical. Maybe during that process I might even find something better and could share that with the rest of you. If I don't then well I guess I will buck up like the rest and buy the Stans. In the meantime the process of discovery and curiosity is kind of fun. Don't get me started on sealant formulas :-)
    Stans is priced high for what you get and we all know stans is not a super tape materials company that designed the tape from the 1st molecule on up.

    So, the quest is on to see is something is nearly as good at 1/4 the cost. Will the savings be enough to get you a new bike??? Ahhh, No. However, there's an odd satisfaction in finding the generic version of a product the bike industry charges a lot for.
    Crusin' on a fake duck with a Sharks jersey on and a pig's tail in my fork

  105. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by dietz31684 View Post
    How is this thread still going, taping a rim is really not hard. Stans works, gorilla tape works. Gorilla tape is easily torn lengthwise and residue isn't bad.
    because we are still in search for:

    • tape that cost $1 a roll
    • is available at office Depot or home depot
    • weighs nearly nothing
    • goes on with minimal effort
    • sticks like metalized mylar tape until you want it off, then if comes off like painters tape
    • never splits or stretches once on, but is plyible (sp?) on install
    • is avail in 1mm width increments


    When we have all that, I will make official request to the moderators to close this thread and make it a sticky.
    Crusin' on a fake duck with a Sharks jersey on and a pig's tail in my fork

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I had great luck with the 3M 8898 tape. I had one split out of the 10 rims I've taped so far, but it was from stretching it too much. I felt the tape was easy enough to work with, and do not have any leak issues that I can tell. I do have the bubbling in my spool of tape, but that's not been any indicator of poor adhesion in my experience. Maybe when this roll wears out after another fifty or so rims, Ill try the kapton tape next time.
    I used the 8898 tape on my tubeless road rims. While it did work, it did move a bit and ruffle up in a few spots near the bead. I will probably replace it with something else when I have that wheel off again
    Crusin' on a fake duck with a Sharks jersey on and a pig's tail in my fork

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    Stans is priced high for what you get and we all know stans is not a super tape materials company that designed the tape from the 1st molecule on up.
    Agreed, I just find it funny that folks will happily pay several hundred each for rims, 5 or 6 hundred for hubs, another $150 for spokes and then balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.
    Last edited by J.B. Weld; 09-08-2015 at 03:59 PM.

  108. #108
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    I am on my third taping in only a year.

    My current set of wheels, purchased used, came with Stans. There were a few nicks thru the tape, but it wasn't an issue. However, it started leaking around a valve stem. I tried more goo, tightening the stem, etc. with no luck, so I retaped both wheels.

    Then I boogered up an aluminum nipple, so had to replace tape on that wheel again.

    I see what you are saying. It may not be worth the time you spend researching it, trimming it, etc. But, you really need to keep spare tape around, so you are at $20 now. I had fun doing it, and will now always have plenty of tape of whatever width I want on-hand. And no biggie if I mess up a taping job and have to start over.

  109. #109
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    I was having a lot of trouble setting my Sun Ringle Mulefut 50's up tubeless.
    The Stans tape was installed by dealer and I couldn't get that to work. I then tried strapping tape and that didn't work. Then I went to the tried and true Gorilla and that didn't work.
    I almost gave up and was so frustrated that within 7 attempts I couldn't get it to work.

    Went to Home Depot with the intentions of buying Tyvek tape but four this for $7.49. Its weather seal tape from Frost King Frost King E/O 2 in. x 100 ft. Interior/Exterior Clear Plastic Weather Seal Tape-T96H - The Home Depot

    Its stretchy and with two wraps I got them to seal up.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_3104.jpg

  110. #110
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    Cool. How did you cut it to the desired width?

  111. #111
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    Dennis, this was a 50mm wide rim so it was pretty close, but I trimmed with one of the cheap little retractable plastic knifes

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisF View Post
    Cool. How did you cut it to the desired width?
    Trimming to width is certainly an issue. I'd be interested to hear how people have done it with "home" tools.
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  113. #113
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    Well, I cut the Stans-like strapping tape with a table saw by rolling it between the blade and fence and it did a perfect job (yes, I still have all my fingers ) .

    But it was fairly hard and brittle. Not sure how it would do on a softer material like Vinyl.

  114. #114
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    Why not trim after you put it on?

  115. #115
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    balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.
    I have had all of the following problems with Stan's yellow 25mm tape:

    1. The last roll of tape I bought had bubbling in the spool.
    2. Sealant under the tape edges and ends (from a roll that did not exhibit bubbling).
    3. Tires ripping the edges of the tape.


    I've never tried any other tape.

  116. #116
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    I bought a used pair of Sun Ringle Inferno 25s which had been set up tubeless with black Gorilla tape. There was a lot of Stanboogers all along the edge of the tape, which was slightly peeling back. One wheel/tire set up OK after I used a bit of soapy water on the bead. The other one was an absolute *****, and when I did get it to pressurize, I could see soapy bubbles at all of the nipples.

    I depressurized, ripped the crappy Gorilla tape, picked as much of the Stanboogers out as I could, then put a double wrap of 1" blue 3m tape. The first wrap I started trimming a bit off the side of the tape so it wasn't wall to wall, but then got tired of doing that and just left it full width. Sealed up great then.

  117. #117
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    Hi For those people that have used Gorilla tape on 29"er Rim, I just wanted to ask do you wrap the rim twice? Or just once will do.
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  118. #118
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    I use gorilla and have been rolling on one wrap for the last year or so.
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  119. #119
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    I ordered Nox rim tape in the width that fit my rims. It was easy, quick to install, works tits and cost about the same as a decent 6 pack. Although I may have paid $4 more than a comparable tape that I would have to source and cut, I think it was a good value.

  120. #120
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    I've been using this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

    So far it has held up well, 2 wraps is all it takes. It hasn't shifted any, was easy to install and was surprisingly thin/light but the film seems very strong. I recommend it. And $5 for 60yds shipped to your door in 2 days you can't beat.

  121. #121
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    Hey guys, I don't have a fatbike but am doing my pre-purchase research so take this idea as hypothetical.

    Anyhow, I use this liquid tape to seal my RC quadcopter electronics and all I know is it seems like a tough and flexible rubber when dry.

    If you don't have rim cutouts, maybe you could just use this to seal the spokes.

    If you do have rims with cutouts, this comes in spraycan form. So you can have a rim strip, masking tape off the edges of the rim, spray this stuff on, remove masking tape when wet, let dry, and you should have a totally sealed inner rim surface.

    Gardner Bender Spray Liquid Tape in Black (6 oz./Can, 6 Cans/Master)-LTS-400 - The Home Depot

    Http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...-400/100119178

    Hopefully someone can proof this before I buy a fatbike.

  122. #122
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    Past couple wheels I taped were with housewrap tape. I put it on full width, really tight, then trimmed the excess with a razor. Super easy.

  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttakata73 View Post
    Hey guys, I don't have a fatbike but am doing my pre-purchase research so take this idea as hypothetical.



    Anyhow, I use this liquid tape to seal my RC quadcopter electronics and all I know is it seems like a tough and flexible rubber when dry.



    If you don't have rim cutouts, maybe you could just use this to seal the spokes.



    If you do have rims with cutouts, this comes in spraycan form. So you can have a rim strip, masking tape off the edges of the rim, spray this stuff on, remove masking tape when wet, let dry, and you should have a totally sealed inner rim surface.



    Gardner Bender Spray Liquid Tape in Black (6 oz./Can, 6 Cans/Master)-LTS-400 - The Home Depot



    Http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...-400/100119178



    Hopefully someone can proof this before I buy a fatbike.

    That stuff wont work, its not designed to handle pressures. It will tear when u air up the tires not to mention that chemicals in sealant till like either eat at it or cause it to separate from the rim. I used to use the stuff on rc too and worked great against water but its tensile strength is very low.

  124. #124
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    I used:
    Tyvek Sheathing Tape 1.88" x 164'
    Tyvek Sheathing Tape 1.88" x 164' - Tuck Tape - Amazon.com

    to tape up some 45mm internal carbon rims. It was tough to apply smoothly and had some wrinkles and bubbles in it. I did two wraps and had no issues with it sealing up. The width went right to the edge of the "hookless hooks" on both sides. No problems after a few rides.

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Agreed, I just find it funny that folks will happily pay several hundred each for rims, 5 or 6 hundred for hubs, another $150 for spokes and then balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.
    It will never last the life of the wheels and it is not perfect tape either. However, after trying a lot of different tapes I do find that Stans is the best of the bunch of the ones that I have used. Its only drawback is price and I'm willing to experiment a bit if I can make it a bit more economical and have some fun in the process. Maybe we find something that works better.

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acme54321 View Post
    I've been using this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

    So far it has held up well, 2 wraps is all it takes. It hasn't shifted any, was easy to install and was surprisingly thin/light but the film seems very strong. I recommend it. And $5 for 60yds shipped to your door in 2 days you can't beat.
    I would be curious to see how much residue is left when peeling it off. Thats been my main complaint about gorilla tape. Sometimes it almost seems to delaminate and leave the adhesive on the rim...messy. Let us know what its like.

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    Trimming to width is certainly an issue. I'd be interested to hear how people have done it with "home" tools.
    Olfa utility knife with a new blade. measured a line around and then cut to width. You can't cut the whole roll all the way through in one go but I would cut it deep enough to do a rim or two and then cut it again.

  128. #128
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    I ordered the 3m 8896 24mm Blue tape to replace the factory *Easton? tape on my Easton Heist 24 wheelset. The factory tape lifted on the edges when I removed my WTB TrailBoss tires, and the factory overlap was also lifting. I used Stans sealant and these were the 1st tires installed on the wheelset.

    I live and ride in an incredibly rocky area so I go through a rear tire every 3 months (500ish miles) and a front every 6 months.

    I am new to tubeless (1st tire change ever) so I don't really know what the tape should look like, but having the edges pulling up doesn't seem like a good idea.

    I bought the 3m tape because I plan on having to install new tape at each tire change and I'm a value oriented type guy. I hope I don't have to change it every time, but only time will tell..... I'll update this as the miles and tire changes go by.

  129. #129
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    I've been using gorilla tape with ghetto tubeless on miniature 29er non-tubeless rims (aka 26") and use 2x wraps to help make a snug fit at the bead. works very well.

    several years and tires worth of experience in rocky CO mtns.

  130. #130
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    3M 865 is a clear strapping tape alternative to 8896/8898, a little thicker (6.4 mil vs. 4.6), 50% stronger (240 lbs/in vs. 160), and a little bit more adhesion (74 oz/in vs. 70)

  131. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    3M 865 is a clear strapping tape alternative to 8896/8898, a little thicker (6.4 mil vs. 4.6), 50% stronger (240 lbs/in vs. 160), and a little bit more adhesion (74 oz/in vs. 70)
    my complaint about the 8898 was that it would not stay stuck in the channel. it would lift and bubble as if the adhesion could not overcome the stiffness in the tape. stans tape has more stretch and molds into the channel and stays there. if the 865 does that then I would try some.

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    Probably not, pretty much the same thing with reinforcement filaments.

  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    my complaint about the 8898 was that it would not stay stuck in the channel. it would lift and bubble as if the adhesion could not overcome the stiffness in the tape. stans tape has more stretch and molds into the channel and stays there. if the 865 does that then I would try some.
    Did you firmly press down with your thumb in the center channel, or did you lay it down like most of the videos show?

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
    Did you firmly press down with your thumb in the center channel, or did you lay it down like most of the videos show?
    I pull it taut and then trying to press it with my thumb into the channel first. If the channel is broad and shallow then its easier. If the channel is deeper and narrow then the tape sticks to the shoulders of the channel and then you have to press the tape into the channel depth. Problem I see is the tape has little stretch and is a bit stiffer than stans so the adhesion isn't enough to hold it down in the channel. it starts to lift. I clean all the past residue off really well and use 99% alcohol on the rim beforehand so I know its really clean.

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    I pull it taut and then trying to press it with my thumb into the channel first. If the channel is broad and shallow then its easier. If the channel is deeper and narrow then the tape sticks to the shoulders of the channel and then you have to press the tape into the channel depth. Problem I see is the tape has little stretch and is a bit stiffer than stans so the adhesion isn't enough to hold it down in the channel. it starts to lift. I clean all the past residue off really well and use 99% alcohol on the rim beforehand so I know its really clean.
    I used the blue 8896 on my Easton Heist24 wheels that have a pronounced center channel. I first did it like the videos show, where you pull the tape super tight and sort of "lay it in the rim" but after I was done, the tape was not stuck down to the center channel at all and was like a "trampoline".

    So I removed the tape (it sure sticks to the aluminum well) and then I did it again, this time just pulling the tape snug, but making sure that I pressed it down firmly into the center channel as I went and it worked great.

  136. #136
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    After trying other tapes, I just bit the bullet and bought a 60 yard roll of Stans. The time wasted messing with other tapes was killing me. My daughter took it to use when moving back to college


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  137. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    M

    electrical tape:
    You can use it in a pinch, but it will eventually peel up.

    not doubting your experience, but plenty of other people who use it claim otherwise

    maybe they chose name brand quality tape rather than the cheapest available?

  138. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    not doubting your experience, but plenty of other people who use it claim otherwise

    maybe they chose name brand quality tape rather than the cheapest available?
    Electrical tape is crap for tubeless.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
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  139. #139
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    Seems like it wouldn't have enough sticktion, but I some people say they do it no problem.

  140. #140
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    Someone try this.

    Heavy duty RED STUCCO tape.

    3M Scotch 1.88 in. x 60 yds. Heavy-Duty Red Poly Contractor Stucco Tape-3260-A - The Home Depot

    looks light, tough, and designed to be easily removable. Needs to be cut.


    I bought some but haven't needed to setup up any rims lately.

  141. #141
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    duct tape? You try it and let us know.

    $1.50 per wheel for real rim tape seems decent enough to me ...

    Price Point Mountain Rim Tape Red | Price Point

    going to give it a shot

  142. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    duct tape? You try it and let us know.

    $1.50 per wheel for real rim tape seems decent enough to me ...

    Price Point Mountain Rim Tape Red | Price Point

    going to give it a shot
    Looks like a rim strip type of tape, for use with a tube. Not sure it will work well for tubeless applications.

    But like you said, You try it and let us know.

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Looks like a rim strip type of tape, for use with a tube. Not sure it will work well for tubeless applications.

    But like you said, You try it and let us know.
    Yea, definitely not tubeless tape in any way.

  144. #144
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    Fortunately I noticed before buying any, butwas too busy to come back and say "DOH!!!"

    I bought a roll of 18mm Orange tubeless tape instead.

  145. #145
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    Well, after reading this whole thread a few weeks ago, I decided to just go with the FattyStrippers because it sounded pretty painless, and I didn't want to mess around with the whole thing more than once.

    The kit arrived last week, and went on my Mulefuts super easy, and sealed up right away. I bought the kit that included the 3M tape that's used as the "rim tape" to cover the spoke nipples and cutouts.

    It's a bit more expensive than DIY tape, but there's no messing around wondering whether it will seal up. Mine sealed up with a floor pump

    I'm a FattyStripper convert. And no.. I don't work for them or know them - just really pleased at the results. They're super lightweight, too.


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  146. #146
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    My rear Arch EX started leaking around the valve and I found that the Orange Seal had worked all the way through the overlap area and was likely the cause. That's ok as I've got 4000 miles on this wheel and changed tires a bunch of times.

    I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.
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  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    My rear Arch EX started leaking around the valve and I found that the Orange Seal had worked all the way through the overlap area and was likely the cause. That's ok as I've got 4000 miles on this wheel and changed tires a bunch of times.

    I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.
    Best would be 21mm Stans tape. I do like Orange Seal tape but it only comes in 18mm and 24mm widths which are too narrow and too wide respectively for Arch EX rims with a 21 inner width.
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  148. #148
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    I just sealed up my Velocity Blunts with Gorilla Clear. Used a utility knife set on a piece of wood to get the tape cut to width, which was much more of a pain than I thought it would be as the blade would actually wander off the initial line. A bit more patience and care on my end next time would make it neater. Oh well, next time. Anyway, put 2 wraps on the rim and the tape is very easy to get down in the channel. The tape is very sticky, very stretchy and very clear, so any imperfections or bits of air and debris really show up. Put an On One Smorgasbord on and got it to seat and seal with my floor pump and no sealant. No air loss overnight, put a full load of Stans sealant in in the morning. So far, so good. The real test will be when I swap tires: Does the tape get torn up at the edges? Will the sealant and/or pressure have started to destroy the adhesive or structure of the tape? I'll report back.
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  149. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post

    I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.
    Stan's recommends 25mm.

  150. #150
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    Just to pile on I would stay away from the 3M 8898 tape. It does not stick well and the adhesive it leaves behind is a PITA to deal with. Any long term reports on the Tesa 4289 tape? Between my son and I we have a several bikes and swap out tires frequently.

    Thanks

  151. #151
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    I have been using Tesa 4289 for almost 4 years and there is nothing else that works as good for the money. I also agree about the 3M tape leaving the residue, and its not quite as thick as the tesa tape.

  152. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by psychler View Post
    I have been using Tesa 4289 for almost 4 years and there is nothing else that works as good for the money. I also agree about the 3M tape leaving the residue, and its not quite as thick as the tesa tape.
    Excellent.........THANKS

  153. #153
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    I just use Stan's and in 10's of thousands of miles and many tire swaps and changes, I've yet to have to re-tape a wheel, even after 6 or 7 years. For $12 or so bucks, that's a bargain.

    Some of you seem to go to unnecessary lengths and time consuming experiments to save a few $$. Misplaced enthusiasm.
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  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Some of you seem to go to unnecessary lengths and time consuming experiments to save a few $$. Misplaced enthusiasm.
    Some of us have several bikes (plus several bikes for the GF) so saving a few $$ per bike goes a long way towards saving $$$$$$$$.

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    Some of us have several bikes (plus several bikes for the GF) so saving a few $$ per bike goes a long way towards saving $$$$$$$$.
    I have four bikes and the wife has two. Disclaimer...she's running tubes.
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  156. #156
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    I found one argument against the "just use Stans tape" crowd.

    I was setting up some Canfield AM wheels and the Stans tape did not stick to them at all. The tape is about a year old, but I think it was just the rims surface. They have a bead blast finish which the Stans just would not stick to. Fortunately I had seen this thread earlier, and I had a roll of the Gorilla clear, which I can bought to protect parts of my new frame, so used that. It worked great!

    I only used one layer though. Is that enough or do I risk it blowing out on a big hit?
    I did not want it too thick as I was mounting super gravity tires which have insanely tight beads. I had actually tried to do them ghetto but put a hole in the tube as motorcycle levers were needed. I needed metal levers to mount them to my old specialized rims (stans copy I think), but with just a layer or Gorilla tape I would wrestle them on by hand with the Canfield rims. This has be a little worried as I have burped or blown off every lighter tubeless tire I have used before. I hope the super gravity bead will keep this from happening.

  157. #157
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    Just got a new set of ENVEs and tried to use Stans tape after prepping the rims. The tape would not stick. So I used gorilla tape. The bad thing about gorilla tape is that it doesn't play well with Stans sealant. It is a PITA to remove. The gorilla tape does leave a sticky residue post removal which the Stans tape will adhere to. I'm using Orange seal now so hopefully I won't be using profanity in the future when I have to remove the gorilla tape.


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  158. #158
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    I have one layer of gorilla tape on my wheels. I'm 230 lbs taking hits and still have yet to see the tape get close to blowing out.
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  159. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    I have one layer of gorilla tape on my wheels. I'm 230 lbs taking hits and still have yet to see the tape get close to blowing out.
    I've never seen the tubeless rim tape "blow out" before.
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  160. #160
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    Just answering NWRyders question.
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  161. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    I've never seen the tubeless rim tape "blow out" before.
    Other riders have reported that the Gorilla Clear at one layer thick blows out at relatively high tire pressures. I haven't heard exactly what pressures or under what riding conditions, but, that's what some have reported.
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  162. #162
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    ^^^ I have a set DT Swiss rims set up as tubeless road wheels with Stan's tape that I'm running about 55 psi on and I've never experienced any issues. I have taken a look at the tape after a tire swap and didn't even see any tape deformity.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

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  163. #163
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    Stan's tape seems pretty tough against pressure...I mean the way the material seems to be.

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  164. #164
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    My Stan's tape tape finally came in.

    I actually had my LBS tape my rim cuz I was impatient but it still leaked past the valve.

    So when I got my tape in I ripped the LBS tape (Stan's) off and redid it myself.

    Stan's says to start the tape across from the valve hole. That's also where the weld is which was a lil rough so I started it a few inches to the left of it. I also increased the overlap to about 5-6 inches from the 2 that it was before.

    ****er held air perfectly as soon as I put some pressure in the tire \o/.

    I do like the Stan's tape for its lightness. It also seems to leave minimal residue which is another bonus.

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  165. #165
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    I have some WTB asym i29 rims. I put down some black gorilla tape, and it instantly left that tape residue on. I took it all off and plan on using gorilla clear or stans. I really want this to be a permanent addition to the wheel because I don't plan on retaping unless I need to replace spoke nipples.

    My biggest questions are which tape will not need replaced (I use orange seal) and do I really need the full width of the rim taped? The asyms have the spoke holes offset, and it's a really wide rim. I figured I only need to put the tape over the spoke holes and the pinned seam to make sure it's good.
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  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    I have some WTB asym i29 rims. I put down some black gorilla tape, and it instantly left that tape residue on. I took it all off and plan on using gorilla clear or stans. I really want this to be a permanent addition to the wheel because I don't plan on retaping unless I need to replace spoke nipples.

    My biggest questions are which tape will not need replaced (I use orange seal) and do I really need the full width of the rim taped? The asyms have the spoke holes offset, and it's a really wide rim. I figured I only need to put the tape over the spoke holes and the pinned seam to make sure it's good.
    Derby only recommends an 18mm width. His rims have a channel though. I believe going wall to wall on rims with hookless beads is unnecessary?

  167. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loch View Post
    Someone try this.

    Heavy duty RED STUCCO tape.

    3M Scotch 1.88 in. x 60 yds. Heavy-Duty Red Poly Contractor Stucco Tape-3260-A - The Home Depot

    looks light, tough, and designed to be easily removable. Needs to be cut.


    I bought some but haven't needed to setup up any rims lately.
    I taped up a wheel with this the other day.

    I often need tape that is wider then standard 25mm stan's tape, and the 28mm stan's is expensive and harder to find. So I'm always looking for a good tape that will work.

    I used one layer of the stucco tape. I cut it to the correct width buy carefully wrapping the rim with the full width tape, then cutting the tape on the outside of the rim with a razor blade. I then wrapped the cut tape back around the spool and then applied it to the rim.

    It went on great and stuck very well (aluminum WTB KOM i23).

    One layer was not enough, air pressure caused the tape to burst at a spoke hole. Several spoke holes were double wrapped at the overlap, and they looked great.

    2 layers should work fine with this tape.

    I have added another layer and so far it is holding up great.

  168. #168
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    I think the trick with Stan's tape is to wrap it twice and take your time. The only issue I have seen is buggering it up when using a tire lever or when the rim wasn't prep'd well and it slid over time exposing the nipple holes. Like someone above, its not very much $$ for a one-time job. Gorilla tape is heavier and leaves a nasty residue which arguably....who cares b/c why would you ever take it off?

    Edit. I just had an issue with Stan's tape on my CX bike. Scrapped it and went with the 1" Gorilla...honestly, its much better tape for this use as it doesn't slide around and is WAY cheaper.
    Last edited by TiGeo; 01-10-2016 at 05:28 AM.
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  169. #169
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    I never used Stan's, on my ghetto tubeless set ups I only used Tesa tape, not the one mentioned by OP, but some kind of Gorilla's tape clone. It was not perfect but worked ok.
    A friend had a wheelset with Stan's, but when he broke a spoke we had to remove the tape, and for our admiration the tape had started to peel of just after 3 months.
    So no, Stan's do not justifie the extra $$$, its the other way around.
    By my experience and with the reports complaining about Stan's products in this forum, it seems Stan's is getting way to greed and is cutting in the product's quality.

  170. #170
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    The little bit of gorilla tape glue that was at the edge caught my tire as I was breaking the bead and it pulled up the tape some. I hadn't even stuck in a tire level. Only reason I'm looking for something a bit more permanent.

    Has anybody tried prepping the spoke holes so they're not as sharp at the edges? I know there are metal de-burring tools that people use to smooth out the rough edges on drilled fatbike rims. Possibly use a larger drill bit to very lightly angle the edge of the spoke hole?
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  171. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    I never used Stan's, on my ghetto tubeless set ups I only used Tesa tape,
    What Tesa tape are you using?
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  172. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What Tesa tape are you using?
    I'm not using it anymore, I got fed up with rim tapes and ordered some carbon rims without spoke holes in the rim bed, so no more tape for me .
    But the tape I used was black in the side without glue and white in the glue side, and together with the glue was a nylon net that give extra support in the spoke holes.
    Sorry but I don't recall the number, I can check it later if you really want. But as I mentioned, it was not perfect. But I paid 4.95€ for 25m.

  173. #173
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    Ok, I searched the online store were bought it, and the reference is 56348-00001 and it 50m instead of 25m.
    I used to tape up the walls, and wall to wall. The only problem I encountered is the same as the Stan's, the tape start to peel after some time, but without the same price tag as Stan's.

  174. #174
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    fwiw, im using 3M 764 vinyl tape, and have been for months on several bikes in a mix of hot dry and cold wet weather with zero issues. it is thin and light so does not help seal gaps if you have a tyre/rim interface issue.
    3M 764 General Purpose Vinyl Marking Tape 50mm x 33m From Viking Tapes
    it is cheap, stretchy, one layer works well for tubeless and it removes without residue. i have used 2 layers on a broken rim i didnt want to set up tubeless for several months that is single wall with a tube and no puncture due to abrasion through tape. i have set wheels up by inflating a tube to bed the tape and also without this step, no probs either way.
    NB: i only use conti revo sealant now a days which is non ammonia based, dunno if this would make a difference and i have only used it on carbon rims.
    it is also easily cut so trimming it to fit a different rim is easy too. that's my epxerience anyway!
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  175. #175
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    I will use for the first time Gorilla Clear tape on Hope Tech Enduro Rims 27.5, how many layers recommend? two layers is enough?

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    My Experience with the following tapes and a few questions.
    ......
    updated 8/19/14:
    Tyvek Home Wrap Tape/Sheathing Tape/aka seam tape:
    This has become my 2nd favorite tape so far. I still say if you want bomb proof go with the gorilla clear and you have aluminum rims. However, if you have carbon or are scared to use gcrt on your rims for fear of it becoming permanent then this should be your next tape. I am pretty sure this is what velocity velotape is. It's basically strapping tape that is more stretchy so it's easier to pull tight and get to lay all the way down. Great stuff and peels back up fairly descent if you need to redo the tire for any reason. I did 2 layers around a 29" rim and the weight came to 9g.
    Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape?
    How well does it stick to carbon rims?
    Does Stan's sealant cause it to lift?
    How hard is it to clean up the adhesive from carbon if you remove it?
    Has anyone had any blow outs at the spoke holes with this?

    So many questions

  177. #177
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    Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

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  178. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

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    Because it is permeable to gasses and leaves gummy crap all over your rims that is a huge pain to remove.
    ENVE probably slapped more than a few foreheads over that spec.
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  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

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  180. #180
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    I too was turned off by the residue but then I realized...you only should put rim tape on once.....when would you ever change it if it installed correctly the first time? Permeable? I haven't really noticed abnormal air loss.

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  181. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    I too was turned off by the residue but then I realized...you only should put rim tape on once.....when would you ever change it if it installed correctly the first time? Permeable? I haven't really noticed abnormal air loss.

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  182. #182
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    ^^^I personally have never seen that, not saying it doesn't happen, but that hasn't been my experience. That has to be from installation technique correct? I have set up lots of rims tubeless, using Stan's tape and Gorilla. Stan's is nice and light but never holds after multiple tire removal/installs in my experience. It is also v. sensitive to the rim being clean. The 1" Gorilla just goes one smoothly, sticks to surfaces well, and hasn't moved around on the rims I have dealt with.
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  183. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

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    What the others said plus heavy and thick.

    Soooo.... to repeat myself:
    Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape?
    How well does it stick to carbon rims?
    Does Stan's sealant cause it to lift?
    How hard is it to clean up the adhesive from carbon if you remove it?
    Has anyone had any blow outs at the spoke holes with this?

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    ^^^I personally have never seen that, not saying it doesn't happen, but that hasn't been my experience. That has to be from installation technique correct? I have set up lots of rims tubeless, using Stan's tape and Gorilla. Stan's is nice and light but never holds after multiple tire removal/installs in my experience. It is also v. sensitive to the rim being clean. The 1" Gorilla just goes one smoothly, sticks to surfaces well, and hasn't moved around on the rims I have dealt with.
    I've never taped my own rims with Gorilla tape, but I reckon that both Mikesee and my friend who owns my LBS have their taping technique down. The tightness of the rim/bead interface and tire mounting/removal technique might play a role too, but in my experience, Gorilla isn't bulletproof, and is a real pain to clean up after. Stan's has been easier all around IME.

  185. #185
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    Are you talking about the black gorilla tape, or the gorilla clear? I've used black gorilla tape in the past, and I will admit, it is a pain to get all the goo off, and if you only do a single wrap, there's a possibility it will leak. On a single layer of gorilla over a cheap rubber rim strip, I had that setup for about 1 1/2 years without any trouble. Tire wore out so I had to redo the setup. It was actually easy to remove most of the old gorilla tape because I used a rim strip.

    I've just done a double wrap with the gorilla clear, and it's looking good so far. Unfortunately, haven't had any ride time on it, but it looks good.
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  186. #186
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    I was referring to the black, but I have tried the clear repair tape after reading this thread. It also moved on me and the cleanup was even worse. Part of my issue is that I'm taping a Stan's FR rim, which has a really tight BSD.

  187. #187
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    I will have to check out the clear Gorilla...but I don't think my single wrap with the black will ever be an issue.
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  188. #188
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    All of this discussion about the frequency of having to remove the tape and clean up the mess baffles me a little. I have four sets of wheels that I have wrapped with Stan's tape. Of these four sets, two of these wheel sets have experienced literally dozens and dozens of tire changes and swaps with the original Stan's tape from the beginning with no issues...ever. Why is so many here having problems and having to remove and reinstall tape so frequently? All of my wheels still have my original Stan's tape (one wrap with a 6" overlap at the stem hole) and zero problems. The only time that I have had to perform re-wrap was a broken spoke that perforated the tape.
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  189. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    All of this discussion about the frequency of having to remove the tape and clean up the mess baffles me a little. I have four sets of wheels that I have wrapped with Stan's tape. Of these four sets, two of these wheel sets have experienced literally dozens and dozens of tire changes and swaps with the original Stan's tape from the beginning with no issues...ever. Why is so many here having problems and having to remove and reinstall tape so frequently? All of my wheels still have my original Stan's tape (one wrap with a 6" overlap at the stem hole) and zero problems. The only time that I have had to perform re-wrap was a broken spoke that perforated the tape.
    That was my question to those that were concerned with the residue from black Gorilla tape. I have never had to re-wrap it. I have had to re-wrap several wheels with Stan's tape but that was likely due to a poor job taping them or rims with a tight bead-on-tape-fit so that when you peel off the tire the sealant and/or lever pulled it up.
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  190. #190
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    I think 90% of this comes down to the lack of knowledge on how to tape properly specially from the people that say their tape doesn't stick, shifts or sealant penetration. All tape will stick well if you do this properly. Three VERY important steps to this.

    1) Spray some BRAKE CLEANER (from automotive store or if you use a bike product Finish Line Speed degreaser is the better of them) into a clean rag and clean inside of rims really well. Brake cleaner and the finish line spray do not leave a residue and this is extremely important. Now use rubbing or denatured alchohol on a NEW rag to finish cleaning the rim. Make sure to get every spec of dirt/sealant that you can see. The more time you spend cleaning the better off you will be. Once cleaned don't touch any part of the inside of the rim. This is all pretty commonsense, now for the piece de resistance!

    2)WARM THE RIM UP! In the 17 years ive been a wrench i can tell you this is the most important step with ANY adhesive based liner, tubeless or tubed. You can use a heat gun, blow dryer or blowtorch (not carbon) to warm the rim up. Your not making the rim hot only warming it enough to not be cold. This allows the adhesive from the tape to soften, adhere much better and spread more evenly leaving no channels for the sealant to get under. (not responsible for you de tempering your rim or damaging your rim)

    3) when you cut the tape don't cut it straight across "---" it needs to be cut at a diagonal "/". It has much higher sheering strength this way. On a side note if you have a road bike and the tape securing your bar tape keeps coming a little undone cut it at a diagonal and your problem will be solved.

    Ive used a TON of different tapes in my days and VERY rarely have any problems with any of them shifting, or not adhering or sealant migrating under the tape or whatever else everyone is having problems with. Ive literally done hundreds and hundreds of conversions and maybe 1% of them have had a problem.

    Hope this helps ya'll and i promise it will make your lives easier.

  191. #191
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    Some good advice here.

    I have only been riding on my wheels tubeless for a couple weeks but it looks like all the gorilla tape supporters are on to something: super cheap and easily available, easy to cut and work with. I wasted my money trying TYVEK tape but it was super hard to cut and work with and kept ripping.

    In frustration I reached for a roll of gorilla tape I had lying around. I ended up going with 1 wrap gorilla tape cut 18 mm wide to just fit in the dip in the middle of the rim because the rim already seamed tight enough. Stan's long 'road' valves for my relatively deep LB 30mm inner rims, Stan's sealant. Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35" front and Nobby Nic 2.35" rear (Evo snakeskin Pacestar).

    Worked well so far. Took the bead on the front a while to seal completely but it's fine now. Also the rear valve leaked at the rim until I tighten it down really tight.

    Running 23.5 psi front and 27 psi rear, no burping and only the very odd light rim strike. Riding weight around 230 lbs. No more pinch flats!!

  192. #192
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    Anyone tried the WTB tape? Is it the same as Stans or the 8898? I've used the 8898 and had trouble getting it to conform to deep rim beds. Looking for something more flexible.

  193. #193
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    I haven't used 8898, but the 8896 seems to be slightly pliable, and even stretches at spoke holes over time. Ive found that kapton / polyimide tape is less flexible, at least at the bigger widths.

  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    Anyone tried the WTB tape? Is it the same as Stans or the 8898? I've used the 8898 and had trouble getting it to conform to deep rim beds. Looking for something more flexible.
    I have used WTB tape on all my tubeless conversions on my bike. Happy and no problems with it, so far, even when doing tire changes or momentarily using tubes.

    I like WTB tape because they come in a lot of widths and stick well enough... I have three wheelsets for my Trance: One has Spank Race28 Evo rims (XC/Workout Duties), the next one are WTB KOM i25 rims (XC racing duties), the 3rd one is Dabomb Advance rims (Enduro/DH duties).

    I do make sure the rim is clean and wiped with alcohol, then after taping properly, I let it sit inflated with a tube for a day before finally making it tubeless.
    Last edited by jobo_ph; 03-21-2016 at 08:47 PM.

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xorrox View Post
    What the others said plus heavy and thick.

    Soooo.... to repeat myself:
    Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape?
    How well does it stick to carbon rims?
    Does Stan's sealant cause it to lift?
    How hard is it to clean up the adhesive from carbon if you remove it?
    Has anyone had any blow outs at the spoke holes with this?
    Sorry Just now coming back to this thread.

    My Tyvek on my Enve carbon rims is still solid. I had what later turned out to be a bad valve that caused me to want to re-tape the rear rim. The tyvek did not leave residue, but it did like break and rip in certain areas when removing it. I had to get my gf to use her fingernails and get the left over broken pieces off. Took her about 10min. I never had a blow out issue with it, and really it's a good tape. Just sucks you have to cut it down to size.

    Lately i've been just using the
    Maxi 248 Polyester/Silicone Single Coated Splicing Tape, 3.3 mil Thick, 72 yds Length, 1" Width, Green

    It's good/cheap doesn't leave residue and seems to stick pretty good.

    As far as people having issues with tape process or whatever, trust me I am taping things right. You can go on and on about "just go gorilla 1" black tape and be done, and if you do it right you will never have to take it off". 1st. I change tires depending on where I am racing. So I go from large volume low knob to less volume and high knob for mud shedding. Literally I switch tires all the time. I don't care how good you are at putting on tape, when you switch tires as much as most XC or Enduro riders you are going to have some tape peel up on you. Gorilla black tape is also prone to this. Once you have to redo gorilla black tape, if you want a good bond guess what you have to do? Make sure you have a nice clean rim surface to adhere it to. Guess what? it's a ***** to do that when you have left over gorilla residue on there. Beyond that it's about 100g heavier than most tapes I use. Weight Weenie? Yes.

    I need to update the original post with the other tapes. I'd still love to find out what tape that velocity uses. It's awesome. It's like stretchy so it sits down in the bead channel really well. It also sticks well.

  196. #196
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    I went with Kapton tape on my Spank rims since I knew there was no way in hell Stan's tape was going to conform & stick to the funky rim profile on those things. Kapton tape is thinner and has just enough stretch in it to follow the wavy rim bed on the Spanks. Mounted a set of UST tires on them with a bit of sealant and it aired up easily and has held air very well. It was about the easiest tubeless setup I've ever done.

  197. #197
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    Help!

    I could use a little help and given this is tubeless tape thread I'm hoping I've come to the right place... I apologize in advance if I 'm in the wrong forum

    Why I'm here...Just finishing up the last details of my new bike build and was waiting for my Stan's tubeless kit to come in the mail.
    In the interim a friend of mine who was building up my wheels suggested we put some Gorilla tape on the rims and throw some tubes and tires on and test the bike out. Anyway, my (stans) kit has arrived and as I got ready to setup for tubeless, I pulled off the gorilla tape and discovered an absolute nightmare of adhesive and gunk really stuck to my brand new just built rims. Have tried Isopropyl alcohol, Silicon lube, WD-40. Sadly nothing is working, still a mess. I've seen lots of back and forth on the web with different solutions be recommended and then not recommended, all over the place.
    So I'm hoping, given the collective knowledge in this group, that someone has experienced what I'm talking about and has a viable solution that has worked and doesn't require me to sit for days trying to scrap off all the crap glue currently on my rims.
    Final thought, ...if I had known this would be the result of Gorilla Tape I would have never agreed to temporarily putting it on just for the sake of testing the bike build.

    Hoping you can help, thanks in advance
    J

  198. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    I could use a little help and given this is tubeless tape thread I'm hoping I've come to the right place... I apologize in advance if I 'm in the wrong forum

    Why I'm here...Just finishing up the last details of my new bike build and was waiting for my Stan's tubeless kit to come in the mail.
    In the interim a friend of mine who was building up my wheels suggested we put some Gorilla tape on the rims and throw some tubes and tires on and test the bike out. Anyway, my (stans) kit has arrived and as I got ready to setup for tubeless, I pulled off the gorilla tape and discovered an absolute nightmare of adhesive and gunk really stuck to my brand new just built rims. Have tried Isopropyl alcohol, Silicon lube, WD-40. Sadly nothing is working, still a mess. I've seen lots of back and forth on the web with different solutions be recommended and then not recommended, all over the place.
    So I'm hoping, given the collective knowledge in this group, that someone has experienced what I'm talking about and has a viable solution that has worked and doesn't require me to sit for days trying to scrap off all the crap glue currently on my rims.
    Final thought, ...if I had known this would be the result of Gorilla Tape I would have never agreed to temporarily putting it on just for the sake of testing the bike build.

    Hoping you can help, thanks in advance
    J
    this is my post here regarding stuff I used (I now have Mavic Crossmax Enduro wheels that have spokes out of the rims, so no need for tape).

    Tubeless Tape Thread- Mtbr.com

    Tesa 4289 comes in 19 and 25mm width - actually - it's the same tape Stan's use - but you get 60+ meters of it in a roll, not just couple of meters Stan's offer.
    I've been using it with no problems whatsoever. never had those gunks you experienced.

    good luck

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    Thanks for your response ashas,

    I think the summary on all the tapes is great. My question is how to get rid Gorilla tape residue. Did you point me to it in the link and I missed it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    Thanks for your response ashas,

    I think the summary on all the tapes is great. My question is how to get rid Gorilla tape residue. Did you point me to it in the link and I missed it?
    oh, ok.
    don't know how to get rid of it. just wanted to point to you towards the tape that does not produce gunk.

    have you tried with the dishwasher sponge? they have that harder sponge on one side. maybe that will help.

    good luck

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