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  1. #501
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    Isnít Orange Seal ammonia free?

  2. #502
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    Combfilter! Thanks for the update. Im so stoked you took the time to write your timeline on this. Stans tape is such a rip off, but I only use 1 or 2 rolls a year, its so tempting to buy it. I am now on Tyvek. That dude that had problems was creeping me out, but now I am stoked. I am about 3 months into Tyvek, double wrap on Derby Carbon rims (35mm outer). No issues for me. Will post after tire change in a week or 2. Thanks again.

  3. #503
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    Kapton tape adhesive fail is interesting. Mine has been holding up fine for a couple of years with Stan's sealant on both road and mtb. Could it be different adhesives?
    Do the math.

  4. #504
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    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_2742.jpgThanks to everyone on this thread, its good info. I am not staying with TYVEK, as it melted onto my Carbon Derby rims after 3 months, and was a real pain in the neck to clean. It works great, is light weight, but STANS comes off clean. I just bought 60 yards of Stans to lower cost per wheel to about $1.60. As a professional house painter, I prep my wheels really well, and maybe thats why TYVEK residue would not come off. It is also the reason my Stans stcks really well to rim (not as well as Tyvek). As others have stated, I too change tires often, and sometimes Stans does not last more than 2 or 3 tires. It just depends on rim material, and tire manufacture's bead size/style. By the way, After seeing Tyvek mess, I took tire off other rim, which I had mounted with Tyvek just last night, and it was a messy residue after only 16 hours. Tyvek is a good solution to Stans cost, but Its not as good as Stans for my setup. Also, Tyvek may be good on my extra bike, where tires last 1-2 years, and I will never clean residue on that aluminum wheelset.

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    I use these with Stans Flow MK3. Best performance beating gorilla tape, stans tape, etc IMHO.

    https://www.specialized.com/nz/en/2b...-each/p/134014
    Iím interested in trying these. Are they self adhesive? Re-usable? Every tape Iíve tried shifts when breaking the tyre bead, and I end up having to re-tape, regardless of scouring and cleaning the rim bed with IPA, leaving overnight with a tube etc. Actually the best fix with tape Iíve found is coating the bead with synth grease to prevent it adhering to the tape.

  6. #506
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Iím interested in trying these. Are they self adhesive? Re-usable? Every tape Iíve tried shifts when breaking the tyre bead, and I end up having to re-tape, regardless of scouring and cleaning the rim bed with IPA, leaving overnight with a tube etc. Actually the best fix with tape Iíve found is coating the bead with synth grease to prevent it adhering to the tape.
    Are you using a tire lever to install/remove the tire? Tire levers can possible scrape the tubeless tape out of position at times.


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  7. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    Are you using a tire lever to install/remove the tire? Tire levers can possible scrape the tubeless tape out of position at times.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Nope, but good thought. It happens when forcing the tyre into the centre to break the bead seal, with hands only. I generally get away without using levers at all, unless itís a particularly new tyre or tight bead.

  8. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoolie View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	1210918I am not staying with TYVEK, as it melted onto my Carbon Derby rims after 3 months, and was a real pain in the neck to clean...
    i've installed TYVEK tape on three sets of carbon wheels a few years ago and while I haven't run into any issues damaging the tape when replacing tires yet, I really wondered if it was going to be a mess when it comes time to have to redo the tape. So when the time comes, how did you get all of the tape residue off your carbon rims??
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  9. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.Christopher View Post
    i've installed TYVEK tape on three sets of carbon wheels a few years ago and while I haven't run into any issues damaging the tape when replacing tires yet, I really wondered if it was going to be a mess when it comes time to have to redo the tape. So when the times comes, how did you get all of the tape residue off your carbon rims??
    Use a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive as you are taking off the tape and it will peal off fairly clean. Anything that is left can also be heated up and peeled off with your finger nail.

    After tape is removed you can use Goo Gone to remove any left over adhesive, just make sure to clean off Goo Gone really good with something like Windex/alcohol before re-taping.

  10. #510
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    Hair dryer may be a good solution. This continues to be a great thread. I used adhesive remover, after trying laquer thinner on a 1 inch test section did not work, plus I was a bit worried about using laquer thinner on carbon rims. Stans is so easy to remove. Stans is so easy to apply. My issue with Stans tape, as Comfilter points out, its pretty expensive tape. I have not used Gorrilla tape, but after dealing with the Tyvek mess I would not hesitate to use Gorilla tape. But I just bought 60 yards of Stans tape. Done!
    Last edited by hoolie; 08-18-2018 at 08:45 PM.

  11. #511
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    I "thought" my newer bike had pre-taped rims (Sun Ringle Duroc 40's) but low and behold, I pull the tire off and sure enough, cloth rim strip. Wanting to setup tubeless for a trip this weekend and gotta swing near home depot tonight anyway. I'm more interested in trying the Tyvek rather than Gorilla, but I can at least pick them both up at HD.
    This Tyvek should work fine, correct? Rim bed is clean, bike is only a month old and has been ridden lightly so far. https://www.homedepot.com/p/TYVEK-Ho...1470/100422453
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  12. #512
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    Given the infusion of $ we all place into this chosen venue of mountain biking, I fail to understand how some get wrapped around the axle on spending around $20 (usually considerably less) on a roll of Stan's Tape that I can get two complete wheel sets taped (4 wheels). $5 per wheel taped that (for me) will last years and many tire swaps. Assuming I can get 3 years from a tape job (I can expect more than this), then your cost per wheel is less than $2 per year. YMMV.

    I will drop $20 without thinking about it on a brief evening with friends on a few good, hand crafted double IPA's, or gas money just to get to a good trail head to ride, or a whole lot more on tires and sealant for just one season of riding.

    I have to question what are people spending on their bikes? How does this expense compare to your overall costs?

    Are you people buying $500 mountain bikes and Wally World tires? Prolly NOT! Tape cost is chump change compared to the cost of playing this game. I can go through a set of high-end tires in one season and my tape jobs will last for years. Where's the real expense?
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  13. #513
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    I wanted to ride the next day, and I had leaky stans tape. Home Depot was open, and my lbs wasn't... So I have tyvek taped rims.

    It worked so well I stuck with it. It's not really about cost.

  14. #514
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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Where's the real expense?
    Not actually an answer but still: if Tesa 4289 is just the same Stan's tape, and it has a various of sizes (literally hundreds), it costs MUCH less than Stan's - why to buy Stan's?
    OK

  15. #515
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    Cost may be an element, but some people also enjoy experimentation and get satisfaction from hacking things.
    Do the math.

  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Given the infusion of $ we all place into this chosen venue of mountain biking, I fail to understand how some get wrapped around the axle on spending around $20 (usually considerably less) on a roll of Stan's Tape that I can get two complete wheel sets taped (4 wheels). $5 per wheel taped that (for me) will last years and many tire swaps. Assuming I can get 3 years from a tape job (I can expect more than this), then your cost per wheel is less than $2 per year. YMMV.

    I will drop $20 without thinking about it on a brief evening with friends on a few good, hand crafted double IPA's, or gas money just to get to a good trail head to ride, or a whole lot more on tires and sealant for just one season of riding.

    I have to question what are people spending on their bikes? How does this expense compare to your overall costs?

    Are you people buying $500 mountain bikes and Wally World tires? Prolly NOT! Tape cost is chump change compared to the cost of playing this game. I can go through a set of high-end tires in one season and my tape jobs will last for years. Where's the real expense?

    Agree with the exception that Stan's does not work well on some rims.

    It works perfectly on Stan's rims as you'd expect but I've had it not adhere to DT rims and carbon rims. For those I've always had excellent results with Gorilla tape.

  17. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Not actually an answer but still: if Tesa 4289 is just the same Stan's tape, and it has a various of sizes (literally hundreds), it costs MUCH less than Stan's - why to buy Stan's?
    Does it come in the proper width? Don't think it does because people have been cutting it to width.

  18. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    Does it come in the proper width? Don't think it does because people have been cutting it to width.
    You can buy at least with 15mm, 25mm and 50mm width.

    EDIT: just googled ant you can also get it at least with 19mm, 30mm and 40mm width.

  19. #519
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    You can buy at least with 15mm, 25mm and 50mm width.

    EDIT: just googled ant you can also get it at least with 19mm, 30mm and 40mm width.
    Stan's comes in 12, 21, 25, 27, 30, 33, 36, and 39.

  20. #520
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    Uhmm, I bought 60m roll with 32 mm width. They (where I bought it) asked me what width do I want and I got it, without any extra cost..
    OK

  21. #521
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    Anyone have any idea what DT Swiss Tubeless tape is made of? Just got a roll of it. It looked "perfect" when I saw it pre-installed on a M1900 wheel, to the point I was imagining what kind of machine they used to install it. Will see if it's worth ~$22 on my other wheels. I tried to get one that was about 4mm wider than the ID of my rim.

  22. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    I wanted to ride the next day, and I had leaky stans tape. Home Depot was open, and my lbs wasn't... So I have tyvek taped rims.

    It worked so well I stuck with it. It's not really about cost.
    This is exactly why I tried Tyvek, and it works well.

  23. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    Anyone have any idea what DT Swiss Tubeless tape is made of? Just got a roll of it. It looked "perfect" when I saw it pre-installed on a M1900 wheel, to the point I was imagining what kind of machine they used to install it. Will see if it's worth ~$22 on my other wheels. I tried to get one that was about 4mm wider than the ID of my rim.
    I have the M1900 wheelset and while it came with DT Swiss tape, it wasn't pre-installed. My experience with DT Swiss tape is disappointing and I won't be using it again.

    When new on the roll, the tape is black. While installing the tape, as I pulled I noticed the tape developed "stretch marks" that were yellow. Here's what the tape looks like after a couple of weeks with Stan's fluid. Horrible.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-2.jpg

    Tubeless Tape Thread-3.jpg

  24. #524
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    Ordered some kapton/polyimide tape from China. Will confirm if they're the same. I also see the orange natural color underneath the branding if I hold it up to the light and look through. Wouldn't judge that as horrible. Just looks like the ink wore off.

  25. #525
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    The black ink flaking off was a mess to deal with during a trail-side flat. The tape didn't stick as well as Stans either.

  26. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    Ordered some kapton/polyamide tape from China. Will confirm if they're the same. I also see the orange natural color underneath the branding if I hold it up to the light and look through. Wouldn't judge that as horrible. Just looks like the ink wore off.
    Check out post #498 on this thread. Some sealants react negatively with Kapton tape.

  27. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    Check out post #498 on this thread. Some sealants react negatively with Kapton tape.
    To me, that looks like something getting under the tape. Thanks for pointing that out--going to make a gasket for the valve nut to sit on, to make it more resistant from water ingress from the outside of the rim (e.g. washing and water crossings).

  28. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    To me, that looks like something getting under the tape. Thanks for pointing that out--going to make a gasket for the valve nut to sit on, to make it more resistant from water ingress from the outside of the rim (e.g. washing and water crossings).
    My rims don't have spoke holes in the tire bed, so nothing could have got under the tape. It was some reaction with the sealant, I tested it with Stan's clone home brew, but others had problem with the original Stan's. In total I think that only three people reported the same problem, so not a big sample.

  29. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    My rims don't have spoke holes in the tire bed, so nothing could have got under the tape. It was some reaction with the sealant, I tested it with Stan's clone home brew, but others had problem with the original Stan's. In total I think that only three people reported the same problem, so not a big sample.
    Are you using tape just to "protect" the rim from sealant? I have a set of UST Easton Havens and I never thought about using tape on it. xD

    Using a few month old bottle of TruckerCo cream, but once I'm out I plan to switch to the Bontrager style home brew (half 50:50 water/RV antifreeze mix, half latex mold builder, and corn meal).

  30. #530
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    No, my rims are carbon so I am not worried about the sealant damaging it. I was testing the tape to see if it was any good to convert my father's wheels to tubeless.
    Bontrager's homebrew is more or less a Stan's clone without the extra ammonia, wich is probably what's damaging the tape.

  31. #531
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    1 roll of stans tape has done 3 wheels (still have enough for 1 more) about 5 thousand miles or so and has endured probably a few dozen tire changes (so far) without issue. $10, I'm a believer.
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  32. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    No, my rims are carbon so I am not worried about the sealant damaging it. I was testing the tape to see if it was any good to convert my father's wheels to tubeless.
    Bontrager's homebrew is more or less a Stan's clone without the extra ammonia, wich is probably what's damaging the tape.
    The ammonia in that formula is the small amount of ammonia in the latex mold builder. Stan's uses different aggregate--whatever their crystals are vs the corn meal (or ground pepper in E13 tire plasma). The antifreeze-water mix is there to carry the aggregate to the punctures, and the latex helps to dry it into a clot that seals punctures.

    Your speculation that ammonia affects the tape has some merit. I found this, when I went to verify:

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  33. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    1 roll of stans tape has done 3 wheels (still have enough for 1 more) about 5 thousand miles or so and has endured probably a few dozen tire changes (so far) without issue. $10, I'm a believer.
    9x the price for an equivilant product? between kids and buddies I've taped a dozen plus tires in my last 5000 miles. The ony weakness in my opinion is if and when you have to put a tube in, there's a chance of failure when you go back to tubeless, but I believe this to be a problem with most of these options (am I wrong?)....
    jvcc polypro strapping tape from amazon:
    Great stuff. You need to go around the rim twice because this stuff is about 1/2 thick as the stan strapping tape in thickness, but it works great on alum. rims and is cheap.

  34. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElwoodT View Post
    9x the price for an equivilant product?

    No doubt if I were using a bunch I'd think twice about it but @ ~$3 per year rim tape is one of the lowest cost and least time consuming maintenance items on my bike. Unfortunately I've had to install plenty of tubes in the last few years but no tape damage yet.
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  35. #535
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    It's less about the money savings for me regarding why I am using tyvek.. It has EVERYTHING to do with the tyvek tape lasting longer, being lighter, laying down better in the groove, and not bubbling than stans strapping tape. Don't get me wrong.. I can lay down stans strapping tape like a pro. The issue with stans with me is that I change tires a lot and I also check my sealant levels a lot. The stans strapping tape tends to start to peel up as you pop the bead off the tire after about 5 to 6 months for me. It's like the adhesive and heat of TX start to lose their grip. With me changing tires depending if I am riding TX,Ar, La, etc, and the fact I used different tires depending on the conditions means I am changing tires about every 3-4mo. Also as we knows sealant doesn't tend to last. So about every 3mo I'll top off the sealant and I don't like having to worry if the tape will peel back. I have one wheel with tyvek that's years old and the tape is still good. I've changed tires on that rim countless times. On the flip side, yes there is even 1x I've had to replace tyvek tape after about 1yr on another wheelset. It happens but not often. With stans tape (even from factory) it happens all the time. Thus my reason right there. The cost savings is a bonus. Obviously the crappy part is cutting the tape down to size. 1st world problems i guess.

  36. #536
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    Due to my exsessive lazyness i dont want to read all 6 pages of posts.

    Has a clear winner emerged in the tubeless tape battle?

  37. #537
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    Quote Originally Posted by plummet View Post
    Due to my exsessive lazyness i dont want to read all 6 pages of posts.

    Has a clear winner emerged in the tubeless tape battle?
    Just read the first post. It's very informative and should help you out.

  38. #538
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    There will prolly never be a clear winner...not collectively speaking.
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  39. #539
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    Different brands of tires have different effects on rim tape. The Maxxis and Schwalbe tires are roundish beads, and I find they come off of rims without disturbing the tape too much. In summer, I use Vittoria TnT tires, on 2 bikes, which have square beads, and they seem to really peel up the rim tape, but I like the Vittoria tires, so I live with it. I do love the Maxxis Shorty 2.5 in winter for the front !

  40. #540
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    With regards to Clear Gorilla tape, be advised it also leaves a good amount of residue behind when removed, requiring a fair bit of time for clean up. Mind you this was after only having the tape on for 24hrs*, so I can imagine it would be worse a year later.

    *I removed the initial tape job as I was not happy with my first application, so I wanted to redo it.
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  41. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoolie View Post
    Different brands of tires have different effects on rim tape. The Maxxis and Schwalbe tires are roundish beads, and I find they come off of rims without disturbing the tape too much. In summer, I use Vittoria TnT tires, on 2 bikes, which have square beads, and they seem to really peel up the rim tape, but I like the Vittoria tires, so I live with it. I do love the Maxxis Shorty 2.5 in winter for the front !
    Can confirm that Vittoria TNT beads push around the edge of the rim tape. It's what messed up the Tyvek tape I tried, and led me to try out DT. It's the front setup too (Goma); rear Tyvek setup with Michelin not needing any attention.

  42. #542
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    I don't want to reread this whole thread but powder coat masking tape seems like a good application for this. Someone on another forum used it and said it's strong (can't tear it by hand) and has no tape residue. It's high temperature too which makes it good for rim brake rim applications. https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Mas...QK6P24N36ZPE20

  43. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    ... powder coat masking tape seems like a good application for this. Someone on another forum used it and said it's strong (can't tear it by hand) and has no tape residue. It's high temperature too which makes it good for rim brake rim applications...
    The powder coat masking tapes have good tensile strength ~50 lbs/in, but adhesion can vary from 20 lbs/in to 44 lbs/in; "stretchier than Stans", no surprise there with elongation from 90% to 148%.
    3m 8898 is 160 lbs/in tensile and adhesion of 65 lbs/in, elongation 32%.
    Kapton that some report good results with, is 50 lbs/in and adhesion of 25 lbs/in, elongation >50%.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  44. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceugene View Post
    Try the green powder coat masking tape for something with medium stretch and decent, but not overkill adhesive. It comes in 1Ē width, perfect for most road rims. It has just enough stretch to form into the center channel with decent pull force. It doesnít split or tear easily like 3M 8898. Itís stretchier than Stanís/Tesa 4289.
    I'll make a note.

    I just did my 39-internal carbon rim with 24mm 8898. Super strong, very sticky, quite light, not much stretch. (Doesn't seem like it'd be prone to splitting or tearing, I was really pulling on it.) Much thicker than Kapton, a bit thicker than Tyvek. Fine for this wheel (most anything is, the existing Kapton looked great and came off without issue; swapped mostly to experiment), but there's no way it'd fill a deep channel like Stan's. Also a bit more translucent.
    Last edited by alexdi; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:21 PM.

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