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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scot 2 View Post
    FIRST AND FOREMOST...Thank You for taking the time out to do the homework -

    NOTICED: In reference to your NUMBER 1 Pick Tyvek a choice, since I believe based on your research through trial and error and spending alot of $$$ YOU are right -

    CHECK OUT: Lineco Tyvek Tape - 1" x 50 Yards MFR # 804-0150

    This should cover MOST Mountain, Road, & Gravel applications at 25mm width.

    In my experience DT SWISS uses Tyvek with branding printed on throughout the tape?
    So I double checked up on this as it would be great to not have to cut Tyvek sheathing tepe down to size.

    The tape you mentioned here is actually made of Tyvek and it not meant to sheath or seal tyvek insulation boards together. It's literally made from the insulation that's in tyvek. So it's not the same as the Tyvek tape we are all referring to.

    Tyvek Sheathing tape is different than this tape.

  2. #602
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    Ive tried Tyvek and Krapton tape with a lot of success, until I started to use Cushcore. The installation and removal is pretty though on tape. So with every tire switch (I change them often) I'd have to retape the rim. Back on Gorrila Black for now.

  3. #603
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    It's not always the tape.

    I thought I was going nuts or just plain suck at what should be simple.
    I've redone the tape twice, put a dab of silicone between the valve seat and tape, and still, the tire is basically flat by the second morning.

    I was about to rip it apart again, clean out all the sealant, tape it again and go for the inner tube tip mentioned earlier (still going to toolbox that one). But first, I wanted to see the air coming out from the valve stem area. So to the bathtub I went....old school.

    Was NOT prepared for what I saw. Bad tape job? Nope. Crap wheel? Nope (well, maybe but it's not the problem). Cheap tires? Definitely. Couldn't get a pic and video is too big to upload so I through it on a server.

    Take a look and tell me if this happens often. Note: I haven't ridden these tires on a real ride yet, they've been leaking since first install. They are leaking from the sidewall.

    http://countertopstories.com/MTB/LeakySidewall.mp4

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimF777 View Post
    .... Take a look and tell me if this happens often. ...
    Tubeless-ready - NOT.

    Some people spin the tire flat and the sidewall-weeping will seal with sealant.

    Others report they always have some sealant leakage.

    Others need to clean, dry, then apply diluted rubber cement on the inside.

    search/google to get the dilution (I can't recall, even though I did it...)
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  5. #605
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    Frost King Tape from Home Depot or Amazon. Countless mounting and dismounting with no issues on rabbit hole rims.

  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    Frost King Tape from Home Depot or Amazon. Countless mounting and dismounting with no issues on rabbit hole rims.
    Would be curious on how this would do with Carbon Rims.

  7. #607
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    I've seen a fair number of tires leak air through the sidewall, but usually have gotten it to stop by shaking the tire/wheel so as to splash the sidewalls with sealant. Going for a ride on rough terrain can do it too. Some tires are hopeless.

    Leaking sealant and weeping sealant are usually different things. Weeping is clear oily, water soluble liquid appearing on the tire, usually the sidewalls, and not usually accompanied by unusual loss in tire pressure. This is propylene glycol diffusing through the tire. It seems in the last couple of years tires have gotten way better in this regard.
    What, me worry?

  8. #608
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    Heavenly Father, forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere, but ...

    After many successful tubeless setups, I gots to wonderin' ... if I set up yet another pair of Mulefut 80s with SunRingle tape, and there are some stubborn hold-out bubbles here and there, can I just pop them with a very fine pin and flatten them? Wouldn't Orange Seal take care of the tiny holes, and wouldn't this maximize tape adhesion?

    Yes, I am aware of replacing the tube and reinflating overnight and all that wonderfulness, but I'm curious what people think about me ... um ... being a prick.
    Time flies like the wind
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  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cycloid View Post
    Heavenly Father, forgive me if this has been covered elsewhere, but ...

    After many successful tubeless setups, I gots to wonderin' ... if I set up yet another pair of Mulefut 80s with SunRingle tape, and there are some stubborn hold-out bubbles here and there, can I just pop them with a very fine pin and flatten them? Wouldn't Orange Seal take care of the tiny holes, and wouldn't this maximize tape adhesion?

    Yes, I am aware of replacing the tube and reinflating overnight and all that wonderfulness, but I'm curious what people think about me ... um ... being a prick.
    Is the tape bead to bead?

  10. #610
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    In my experience, sealant prevents tape adhesion. Minor bubbles of air trapped between layers of tape should be fine as there's no path for air or sealant. I would recommend against creating paths by poking holes in the tape.
    What, me worry?

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    Is the tape bead to bead?
    SunRingle tape on Mulefut80 ... so the tape covers over the bottom of the bead lock channel (and all those silly little holes), up to the base of the side of the rim.
    Time flies like the wind
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  12. #612
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    In my experience, sealant prevents tape adhesion. Minor bubbles of air trapped between layers of tape should be fine as there's no path for air or sealant. I would recommend against creating paths by poking holes in the tape.
    Okay, that sounds logical. And to back what you are saying, I've successfully set up and ridden on many tubeless wheels, all with some bubbles, and never had a problem, so I'll stick with success. I was really just wondering, so I appreciate the input :-)
    Time flies like the wind
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  13. #613
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    My recommendation is for you to stop being a prick as it can cause bad karma later on .

  14. #614
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    Anyone ever use the black Tesa 4288 tape?? I know people use the yellow 4289. Just curious because a set of rims i bought came with black tape that looks exactly like the 4288. Im almost certain its the same stuff, i should be getting it in the mail tomorrow. Just curious if anyone has any experience with it.

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    Frost King Tape from Home Depot or Amazon. Countless mounting and dismounting with no issues on rabbit hole rims.
    i wonder if thats rebranded tyvek
    '18 banshee rune

  16. #616
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    i wonder if thats rebranded tyvek
    It feels thicker/stronger to me than the tyvek and it comes off easier. Tyvek sucked for me the time I had to take it off. The Frost King comes off easily and cleanly.

  17. #617
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    I just bought this to do some wheels for my buddy and it is exactly like the Frost king tape.http://https://www.amazon.com/MD-046...gateway&sr=8-3

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    It feels thicker/stronger to me than the tyvek and it comes off easier. Tyvek sucked for me the time I had to take it off. The Frost King comes off easily and cleanly.
    Interesting. Is a tad stretchy/rubbery like tyvek so easy to lay down?
    As strong or stronger than tyvek re: psi at spoke holes? does not lift up like stans tape when changing tires? How much ride time have you had with it?
    '18 banshee rune

  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    It feels thicker/stronger to me than the tyvek and it comes off easier. Tyvek sucked for me the time I had to take it off. The Frost King comes off easily and cleanly.
    also, is this it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Ki...T96H/100175156
    '18 banshee rune

  20. #620
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    Yes thats it. Its stretchy so easy to lay down, stronger than Tyvek would be a guess but no real data other than my opinion. Ive said before I've done many tire changes without having an issue with the tape. Ride time, Ive been using it since 2016 when I got my Trek Stache 5 that rabbit hole rims. I have changed the tape in that time but not sure if it was one change or two as it might've been one change for rear and maybe twice for the front as i change that tire more. I ride 2-3 times a week about 9 months out of the year.

  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norcal Mtb Addict View Post
    Anyone ever use the black Tesa 4288 tape?? I know people use the yellow 4289. Just curious because a set of rims i bought came with black tape that looks exactly like the 4288. Im almost certain its the same stuff, i should be getting it in the mail tomorrow. Just curious if anyone has any experience with it.
    Tesa 4288 is basically the same as 4289 except for few differences.

    * The color
    * Thickness
    * 4288 has less tensile strength than Tesa 4289. 300N/cm vs 420N/cm

    It does work fine. Just not as well as 4289.

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    Yes thats it. Its stretchy so easy to lay down, stronger than Tyvek would be a guess but no real data other than my opinion. Ive said before I've done many tire changes without having an issue with the tape. Ride time, Ive been using it since 2016 when I got my Trek Stache 5 that rabbit hole rims. I have changed the tape in that time but not sure if it was one change or two as it might've been one change for rear and maybe twice for the front as i change that tire more. I ride 2-3 times a week about 9 months out of the year.
    Thanks for the info. Im gonna try it next time.
    '18 banshee rune

  23. #623
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    Anyone know where I can get the right tyvek tap in the UK?

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    Yes thats it. Its stretchy so easy to lay down, stronger than Tyvek would be a guess but no real data other than my opinion. Ive said before I've done many tire changes without having an issue with the tape. Ride time, Ive been using it since 2016 when I got my Trek Stache 5 that rabbit hole rims. I have changed the tape in that time but not sure if it was one change or two as it might've been one change for rear and maybe twice for the front as i change that tire more. I ride 2-3 times a week about 9 months out of the year.
    Is this the same thing, from Amazon?
    https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-T9...511233410&th=1
    '18 banshee rune

  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    Yes thats it. Its stretchy so easy to lay down, stronger than Tyvek would be a guess but no real data other than my opinion. Ive said before I've done many tire changes without having an issue with the tape. Ride time, Ive been using it since 2016 when I got my Trek Stache 5 that rabbit hole rims. I have changed the tape in that time but not sure if it was one change or two as it might've been one change for rear and maybe twice for the front as i change that tire more. I ride 2-3 times a week about 9 months out of the year.
    i just got the frost king tape from amazon. Didnt apply yet but it seems quite stretchy and easier to break with my fingernail than the tyvek. Does frost king make a different tape or is that right? Realized youre using it with fat tires at low psi; I run 2.4-2.5 with 20-29 psi. Thanks.
    '18 banshee rune

  26. #626
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    does anybody know what's the new red tape enve is using?

  27. #627
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    I havenít had any real tape problems with any name brand tape the last couple years until just recently with a cushcore install. I believe I keep ripping the stand tape Iím using when I have to dual tire lever the last 10Ē of tire on.
    Gonna try a roll of Tyvek from Amazon, sounds like its a bit tougher.

  28. #628
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    I've just switched to Tyvek (blue) Vapor Barrier tape and it's holding extremely well, didn't even require sealant except for the valve stem. (Tried Gorilla, Duct tape, strapping tape etc and nothing was as good as Tyvek so far, I run 60PSI)

    Just wanted to post here with a tip however: I noticed that my previous tapes were getting cut at the edges of the spoke drill holes. This time I took a beveled grinding stone in a drill and smoothed the edges out just a tiny bit. This should avoid the tape getting cut up when pressure changes. I highly recommend this step if you have sharp hole edges like I did on my MTB rims.

  29. #629
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    Don't really like the kapton tape, as it doesn't conform to the rim bed that easily. The usual method of putting the tape on with a bit of tension to keep the tape smooth, makes the tape sort of hover over the center channel, using tape that is about 5-6mm wider than the inner rim width (e.g. 35mm tape for 29ID). Can press it down, but it comes back up. 25mm kapton applied easily and perfectly on some older 19mm rims though (Giant PXCR-0).

  30. #630
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    I got around to trying Frost King tape. Stretchy and Easier to put on and remove than even Tyvek, but I think its a tad heavier. I was a little worried it would sretch and break across the spoke holes but no problem there at 30 psi with a big tire, i did not test high psi though. Held air superbly and does not lift off the rim during tire changes. Put a fatal dent in the rear rim a couple weeks ago, still held air!
    Replaced rim with WTB KOM Tough with the new tcs 2.0 system, do yourself a favor and get this system next time you need a rim. A thicker (but not heavy) strip goes over the spoke holes, taping over that is super easy. i just used the frost king tape over that instead of buying the WTB Flex tape (its probabaly real simiiar lol.) Has not dropped a single pSI in a week. will report back after long term usage. btw ive also found taht yeah, if tyvek is on for a long time, its a PITA to remove.
    '18 banshee rune

  31. #631
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    Is that a type of clear weatherstripping tape?


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  32. #632
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Is that a type of clear weatherstripping tape?


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    The frost king ? Yes. its mentioned ny another earlier in this thread. So is Tyvek.
    '18 banshee rune

  33. #633
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    Updated the 1st post.

    I got around to trying to the frost king tape on some brand new enve's and reynolds. It does not work on carbon. It acted like it was going to stick but the moment I turned the wheel the tape would just fall off.. So I tried it on another carbon wheelset and the same thing. This tape is for aluminum rims only.

    Needless to say I busted out tyvek and perfect. I just wish there was an easier way to cut the tyvek tape.

    tl:dr = frost king is for aluminum rims only.

    This was the version of FK i was using
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tape Thread-img_20190620_212856.jpg  


  34. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    Don't really like the kapton tape, as it doesn't conform to the rim bed that easily. The usual method of putting the tape on with a bit of tension to keep the tape smooth, makes the tape sort of hover over the center channel, using tape that is about 5-6mm wider than the inner rim width (e.g. 35mm tape for 29ID). Can press it down, but it comes back up. 25mm kapton applied easily and perfectly on some older 19mm rims though (Giant PXCR-0).
    For carbon rims like kapton tape. In 1st gen hookless rims it does lay down good edge to edge. In more modern rims I go with narrower 15 - 20mm width tape and just lay the tape in the trough. At $2/roll on ebay just too cheap for this cheapazz to pass on. Because you have so much exposed edge putting a tube in it overnight can press and seal the tape down better.

  35. #635
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    Updated the 1st post.

    I got around to trying to the frost king tape on some brand new enve's and reynolds. It does not work on carbon. It acted like it was going to stick but the moment I turned the wheel the tape would just fall off.. So I tried it on another carbon wheelset and the same thing. This tape is for aluminum rims only.

    Needless to say I busted out tyvek and perfect. I just wish there was an easier way to cut the tyvek tape.

    tl:dr = frost king is for aluminum rims only.

    This was the version of FK i was using
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Hey combfilter,
    In the past I have cut the tape on the roll, going deep for a few wraps, then unwrapped it and cut more as I pulled off the roll. Just a thought

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  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratt View Post
    For carbon rims like kapton tape. In more modern rims I go with narrower 15 - 20mm width tape and just lay the tape in the trough. ...
    Me too. I use 20mm, a single layer for mtb and two for road. I have a CF road set going on 4 years and my mtb CF set going over 2 years with the same tape jobs. I've dealt with Stan's a similar polyester tapes, Gorilla duct tape (the worst), Orange Seal tape, etc.. and Kapton beats the all in terms of ease of installation, reliability, and ease of removal and cleanup when replacing it.
    What, me worry?

  37. #637
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    I was told to use the 3M 8896 strapping tape, ordered a roll from amazon, and it wont even try to stick to the rim. Cleaned with alcohol, heated the rim a bit with blow dryer, nothing helps. Am I missing something or did I possibly get a bad roll of tape?

  38. #638
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    Does the tape stick to any other surfaces?
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  39. #639
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    Another vote for the Tyvek tape. I tried it for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Went on easy and has been perfect since. The only down side is having to cut it to width. However it's cheap, light, strong, and sticks to the rim well. I did test removing it though only leaving it on for a few minutes for a quick test. Was easy and came off clean. I'll have to see how it does long term.

  40. #640
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    Reposting my love for green poly tape / green powder coat masking tape / 3M 8992.

    It is not a strapping tape like many of the others mentioned in the thread. It elongates slightly, allowing it to conform to your rim channel. It has a strong, clean adhesive that works on carbon. It's very cheap on Amazon or from various powder coat suppliers.

  41. #641
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    https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/72-yard...-width-1325312


    Found a uk place for it that actually has a sensible price.

  42. #642
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    well, the long term reliability of Frost King tape may be called into question. After a couple months, I changed the rear tire and around about half the rim there is sealant under the tape, mostly under the upper overlap layer. Its a tcs 2.0 with the rubber strip over spoke holes so that helps. Was in a hurry so didnt wipe it all down for a clear look at exactly whats going on, just put new tire on with crossed fingers and went for a ride. still held air...will report back after full removal and investigation.. possible bummer. will report back...
    '18 banshee rune

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceugene View Post
    Reposting my love for green poly tape / green powder coat masking tape / 3M 8992.

    It is not a strapping tape like many of the others mentioned in the thread. It elongates slightly, allowing it to conform to your rim channel. It has a strong, clean adhesive that works on carbon. It's very cheap on Amazon or from various powder coat suppliers.
    I ordered some to try.

  44. #644
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    Quote Originally Posted by crfnick56 View Post
    I was told to use the 3M 8896 strapping tape, ordered a roll from amazon, and it wont even try to stick to the rim. Cleaned with alcohol, heated the rim a bit with blow dryer, nothing helps. Am I missing something or did I possibly get a bad roll of tape?
    8896 has low stick, 8898 has more glue for high stick. I've been using 8898 for most of my rims but on my new 38mm rim, it isn't working out. So I'd say up to 30mm it's ok. It doesn't stick to itself very well so I run a bead of epoxy at the end point.

  45. #645
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    I ordered some to try.
    Iím pretty sold on it. Great durability. I throw a dab if superglue on the last overlapping bit to make sure it never comes apart (glue never touches rim). Also, on a per foot basis, itís pretty damn cheap.


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  46. #646
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    I ordered about $90 worth of tape last night.

    Did we ever figure out what tape DT swiss uses? It seems pretty good.

  47. #647
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    well, the long term reliability of Frost King tape may be called into question. After a couple months, I changed the rear tire and around about half the rim there is sealant under the tape, mostly under the upper overlap layer. Its a tcs 2.0 with the rubber strip over spoke holes so that helps. Was in a hurry so didnt wipe it all down for a clear look at exactly whats going on, just put new tire on with crossed fingers and went for a ride. still held air...will report back after full removal and investigation.. possible bummer. will report back...
    I experienced the same and It was never problem for me. good luck

  48. #648
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    Are you guys using epoxy on the end of the tape? I've often found sealant under the overlap until the valve core stops it. I started epoxy on the end and stopped this. Just 5 min mix together hobby epoxy. Standard superglue didn't work, but the Gorilla brand superglue did work.

  49. #649
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    I experienced the same and It was never problem for me. good luck
    Meaning u had sealant under the tape, but never lost any air?
    '18 banshee rune

  50. #650
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    Are you guys using epoxy on the end of the tape? I've often found sealant under the overlap until the valve core stops it. I started epoxy on the end and stopped this. Just 5 min mix together hobby epoxy. Standard superglue didn't work, but the Gorilla brand superglue did work.
    Dang, thats brilliant im gonna try that next time. Yeah, i think its under the tape from the overlap to the valve (my overlap is opposite the valve)
    '18 banshee rune

  51. #651
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    well, the long term reliability of Frost King tape may be called into question. After a couple months, I changed the rear tire and around about half the rim there is sealant under the tape, mostly under the upper overlap layer. Its a tcs 2.0 with the rubber strip over spoke holes so that helps. Was in a hurry so didnt wipe it all down for a clear look at exactly whats going on, just put new tire on with crossed fingers and went for a ride. still held air...will report back after full removal and investigation.. possible bummer. will report back...
    Well some sealant is leaking out of a spoke hole. Sigh...
    '18 banshee rune

  52. #652
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    I didn't like Tyvek on aluminum wheels due to residue left behind. I had put some small pieces on a fat wheel on the rim seam and over some of the pin joint holes in the bead shelf and then used regular sun ringle tape on the entire wheel over the top. I put it on last november/december and rode in the cold mn winter. When I swapped tires this spring I had to retape. The sun ringle tape came off clean with no residue. the little pieces of tyvek left residue over nearly their entire area (and sealant looked to have gotten under a little.

    TLDR - tyvek on aluminum fat wheels that experienced subzero F temps and maybe up to 70F left behind nasty residue after 6 months or less. I used orange seal if that affects anything.

  53. #653
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadoretteboat View Post
    No one mention setting up the tape to the rim with the inner tube in at full psi for couple hour.
    That's the secret for any tape.
    This is the only way I could get my road bike to seal. Good advice for all tubeless, have been using tubes to seat tape on all my bikes since then.

  54. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceugene View Post
    Reposting my love for green poly tape / green powder coat masking tape / 3M 8992.

    It is not a strapping tape like many of the others mentioned in the thread. It elongates slightly, allowing it to conform to your rim channel. It has a strong, clean adhesive that works on carbon. It's very cheap on Amazon or from various powder coat suppliers.
    I bought some of this, thanks for the tip!

  55. #655
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Well some sealant is leaking out of a spoke hole. Sigh...
    Im gonna give frost king another go, this time with 2 full layers of tape and the epoxy on the loose end trick. Simply because its so easy to apply to the rim. If it doesnt hold up this time...back to tyvek.
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  56. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    I ordered about $90 worth of tape last night.

    Did we ever figure out what tape DT swiss uses? It seems pretty good.
    I disagree, i bought a dt swiss c1800 gravel wheelset with dt swiss tubeless tape installed, and ran it with effetto mariposa caffelatex sealant, after a month or two the rim tape in my rear wheel failed, and after about a year the tape in my front wheel failed as well.

    This was with the tires always inflated between 3 and 4 bars (and very briefly 5 bars to seat the tire). Both failures where at the spoke holes. Curiously the tape seemed damaged at multiple spoke holes, but i think the sealant managed to plug some of them up (the caffťlatex is a foaming sealant, pretty great stuff)

    I took the tires off to replace the tape, and saw that the logo's had faded away/peeled of for the most part. I sent them a customer request support, and they referred me to a local bike shop that was partnered with them, but they said that my tape was not the original tape because the original tape should have logos on it...

    Didn't bother with continuing to ask for tape since they probably would have replaced it with the same tape which would have failed again.

    I replaced it with 2 layers of effetto mariposa tubeless tape on both wheels, and that has worked well so far for the last few months.

    It is a different tape than some others in that it does seem pretty strong, and it's not stretchy which makes it a bit more time consuming to apply, but effetto mariposa says that that makes the tape adhere better.

  57. #657
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    Sounds like the caffelatex sealant was eating away at the tape.

  58. #658
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    Maybe, And i guess that the sealant is somewhat uncommon in that it is in contact with the tape due to it's foaming properties.

  59. #659
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    When you guys are talking about sealant eating the tape, you mean the adhesive is coming loose, not the substrate being affected, right? I haven't seen sealant affect plastic film of the tape. I've certainly seen plenty of situations where the film stops adhering to the rim with the adhesive turned into a gooey mess.

    The Kapton tape I've been using has silicone adhesive and has held up to Stan's for years on road/mtb carbon and aluminum rims.
    What, me worry?

  60. #660
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Im gonna give frost king another go, this time with 2 full layers of tape and the epoxy on the loose end trick. Simply because its so easy to apply to the rim. If it doesnt hold up this time...back to tyvek.
    Let is set over night with a tube inflated.

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dropout33 View Post
    Let is set over night with a tube inflated.
    I always do that

  62. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    When you guys are talking about sealant eating the tape, you mean the adhesive is coming loose, not the substrate being affected, right? I haven't seen sealant affect plastic film of the tape. I've certainly seen plenty of situations where the film stops adhering to the rim with the adhesive turned into a gooey mess.

    The Kapton tape I've been using has silicone adhesive and has held up to Stan's for years on road/mtb carbon and aluminum rims.
    In my case the actual dt swiss branding had dissapeared because of the sealant. I don't know if the tape failed because dt swiss ships weak tape, or if the sealant affected the structural integrity of the tape, but the logo's were probably gone because of the sealant. The adhesion to the rim however, was still perfect.

  63. #663
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    Quote Originally Posted by smurfendrek123 View Post
    ... dt swiss ships weak tape...
    Say that three times fast.
    What, me worry?

  64. #664
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    Tyvek, so far no issues on CF rims

  65. #665
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    I haven't read all the replies but a tip to remove the stuff left from Gorilla tape is to use some more gorilla tape.
    Take a piece around your finger , glue side exterior (doh!) , and just remove the stuff left with that. You sometimes have to pass a couple of times over it.

    IME it doesn't work as well if you tried to remove before with other chemical stuff.
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  66. #666
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    ^^^ I have dealt with Gorilla residue. It's easier to avoid it.
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  67. #667
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    Anybody use Tyvek on mulefits? I just gave it a shot but see i have sealant leaking out of cutouts. I did two passes around the rim on each side, which left a good amount of overlap in the middle. I wonder i if i should take it off and do 4 full passes?

    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_20191129_192234.jpg

    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_20191129_192213.jpg

    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_20191129_192203.jpg
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  68. #668
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    I do, on my girls trailer now. I was having the air leak through the vent holes in the rim that are on the sidewalk. I had to run my tape much wider than yours is laid out. Try pulling it so that it curves up on the sidewalk and get as close to the bead hook as possible. Also better success after using a tube to help compress the tape down, 15psi or so for 24 hours made a big difference. Good luck

    Also, is that just tyvek tape? No rimstrip?make sure you run a strip under the tape otherwise the tape will eventually stretch and blow out

  69. #669
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gendy View Post
    Anybody use Tyvek on mulefits? I just gave it a shot but see i have sealant leaking out of cutouts. I did two passes around the rim on each side, which left a good amount of overlap in the middle. I wonder i if i should take it off and do 4 full passes?

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    It looks to me like you have way too many wrinkles and bubbles for that to work.
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  70. #670
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    I've had very good luck with high temperature powder coating masking tape. 3M 8992, specifically.

    Good adhesion, comes off clean (!), easy to apply, strong.
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    I am running the stock rim strip, which i trimmed down about a 1/4" on each each side, to allow for more surface for the tape to stick. I did install a tube up to 15-20psi and let it sit over night. I wonder if that was too much, which caused the tape to bubble out on the cut outs, ruining the seal. It was better looking before i did that. Does anybody think i should go around twice on each side, would that help? Also any tips on removing the adhesive? Alcohol isnt touching it Tempted to just order the sunringle stuff, since the left over residue was so bad
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  72. #672
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I've had very good luck with high temperature powder coating masking tape. 3M 8992, specifically.

    Good adhesion, comes off clean (!), easy to apply, strong.
    Yes, I am pretty excited about this stuff too. I am just trying it now but so far it seems remarkably close to ideal, it goes on with the exact right amount of stretch to neatly cover with no wrinkles or bubbles, with good adhesion. It seems plenty tough enough to seal well and hold up, but time will tell.

  73. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    Yes, I am pretty excited about this stuff too. I am just trying it now but so far it seems remarkably close to ideal, it goes on with the exact right amount of stretch to neatly cover with no wrinkles or bubbles, with good adhesion. It seems plenty tough enough to seal well and hold up, but time will tell.
    Can it be sourced locally, or needs to be ordered online?
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  74. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gendy View Post
    Can it be sourced locally, or needs to be ordered online?
    I got it through the local branch of R.S. Hughes, they also sell it online.

  75. #675
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    Tubeless Tape Thread-gorilla_heavy_duty_packaging_tape_white_bg.jpg
    Gorilla Heavy Duty Packaging Tape

    Giving this stuff a try, taped up a wheel set few months back with it and have not had any issue (leaks) with it so far.

    Kind of thick (not stupidly thick), so only need one wrap. The adhesive seems fairly sticky but not overly sticky like Tyvek. Tyvek is great, but is a pain to work with (putting on and taking off).

    Be swapping out tires here soon so will see how this stuff is doing/holding up.

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by In2falling View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Gorilla Heavy Duty Packaging Tape

    Will that flex enough to contour into rim channels and curves? I haven't used anything like that but it doesn't seem like it could conform well to anything but a fairly even surface.

    I don't think Stan's tape is ideal, it kind of sucks on some rims actually but I haven't tried anything better yet. I think tape in general is a crappy engineering solution for tubeless wheels. Strips made to fit the rim (e.g. Bontrager) seems like an improvement, better yet would be a tapeless rim like Mavic but with a more universal and user friendly nipple system.
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  77. #677
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Will that flex enough to contour into rim channels and curves? I haven't used anything like that but it doesn't seem like it could conform well to anything but a fairly even surface.
    Not much of any flex to it at all, but I managed to lay it down fairly nicely into channel and curves for the most part. Was a quick last minute tape job after getting frustrated with Tyvek, so wasn't the best tape job.

    If the adhesive hold up this might be a fairly nice tape option and its only $4 for 25 yard roll.

  78. #678
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    Isnít anyone using Kapton anymore. I wrapped a set a while back and havenít had any issues but havenít had the tires off yet to check the status.

  79. #679
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    I used Kapton on my i40 carbon wheels and it's been holding up great far as I can tell. It was my go-to when trying mulefit 80s for the first time, but it didn't work at all. It was only ~1" wide I think, and sealant seemed to push in between in the cutout areas. Not sure how wide you can get kapton, but if they had a 2"+ maybe that'd be more suitable for a fat wheel.

    Tyvek was the only other tape I could find locally besides gorilla. I went around the wheel twice with some overlap in the middle, but it didn't work. Has been a major pita cleaning the residue. Just had to go and get acetone since alcohol and brake clean werent touching it. Hesitant to even try it again due to the residue, but I wanna wrap this up before the snow later today :/. Maybe I'll try two layers to see if that helps??
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  80. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by In2falling View Post
    Not much of any flex to it at all, but I managed to lay it down fairly nicely into channel and curves for the most part. Was a quick last minute tape job after getting frustrated with Tyvek, so wasn't the best tape job.

    If the adhesive hold up this might be a fairly nice tape option and its only $4 for 25 yard roll.
    3M 8992 tape is easy to apply and just flexible enough to conform very smoothly. It is $10 for 72 yards and comes in 1" or 1.5" widths.

  81. #681
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    I am the captain of Kapton. It's been very easy to use an totally reliable for me using it on road and mtb tubeless. That said, I've seen some wheels where it wasn't sticking anymore. IDK what went wrong with those, except perhaps inadequate cleaning/prep of the rim before taping.
    What, me worry?

  82. #682
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    I'm not sure how to handle the tape edge where the cutouts are....push it down or try to pull it tight?

    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_20191201_154100.jpg
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  83. #683
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    You probably need to use a rim strip before putting the tape


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  84. #684
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    Yes, stock rim strip is there. I trimmed it down a bit
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    yep.. i couldn't see very well on my iphone. the shadow over the holes looked liked there was nothing in there..

    im used to taping center then on the sides.

    i plan on re-taping my rear and looks like Tyvek is highly recommended. mind sharing where you got yours?
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  86. #686
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    yep.. i couldn't see very well on my iphone. the shadow over the holes looked liked there was nothing in there..

    im used to taping center then on the sides.

    i plan on re-taping my rear and looks like Tyvek is highly recommended. mind sharing where you got yours?
    taping center, then the sides. brilliant idea! wish i thought of that last night before redoing my mulefits with tyvek. i found it at home depot. The left over residue when removing was less than ideal, but i dont have much to compare it to in terms of cleanup at this point
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  87. #687
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    I am the captain of Kapton. It's been very easy to use an totally reliable for me using it on road and mtb tubeless. That said, I've seen some wheels where it wasn't sticking anymore. IDK what went wrong with those, except perhaps inadequate cleaning/prep of the rim before taping.
    I've had Kapton not stick to my rim from the start. Spank Oozy Trail 345s. It seems to have an aversion to rough surfaces. It worked great on my WTBs, but for the Spanks I had to use other tapes instead.

  88. #688
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gendy View Post
    taping center, then the sides. brilliant idea! wish i thought of that last night before redoing my mulefits with tyvek. i found it at home depot. The left over residue when removing was less than ideal, but i dont have much to compare it to in terms of cleanup at this point
    From experience the tyvek on aluminum leaves way more residue than sun ringle tape. sun tape I've taken off with virtually no residue after a year or more. tyvek tape after 6 months left a gummy mess. It may be different on carbon.

  89. #689
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    3M 8992 tape is easy to apply and just flexible enough to conform very smoothly. It is $10 for 72 yards and comes in 1" or 1.5" widths.
    Related, I just ordered this powder coating masking tape. Amazon housebrand. Will be first time trying.

    1" X 72 Yds, $7.55
    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...dp/B00CKGIBYE/

  90. #690
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin_sbay View Post
    Related, I just ordered this powder coating masking tape. Amazon housebrand. Will be first time trying.

    1" X 72 Yds, $7.55
    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...dp/B00CKGIBYE/
    I would be surprised if that is not the same stuff. Same specs, same color.

  91. #691
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    orange seal rim tape? what a disappointment. Tried to get a refund on this crap, they want pictures to prove it failed, guess my word is not good enough, thanks Jen USA, how many thousands of dollars i spent at your store? . It reminds me of pipe thread tape and nearly as fragile. Any others try this tape? never had problems with Stans many years ago, so after many years I want to convert one of wheelsets to tubeless and have to use rim tape not having fun so far. My wifes bike has NOS Shimano tubeless with no spoke holes....so easy. Guess the fell out of favor? to complicated I guess.
    Last edited by jupiter58; 12-03-2019 at 09:46 AM.

  92. #692
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velodonata View Post
    3M 8992 tape is easy to apply and just flexible enough to conform very smoothly. It is $10 for 72 yards and comes in 1" or 1.5" widths.
    I am going to give it a try, seems like a good choice, I have shimano MT66 wheel 622X19c. so the 3M tape in 3/4 inch should work?

  93. #693
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    @Gendy.

    If those are aluminum I'd use gorilla clear like I said in the original post. For aluminum rims Gorilla Clear is great. For carbon, not so much. I think most fat bike people use gorilla clear or...I know this sounds weird, but they will lay down a layer of electrical tape in the channel to cover up the holes. Then go over that with gorilla clear. Your tyvek tape job is not looking real clean in that picture above. Not ragging on you, but it shouldn't look like. Try covering the holes with 2 rounds of electrical tape, and maybe frost king if you have alum.

  94. #694
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    Just a reminder:

    Frost King does not work on carbon rims. I am guessing it's probably really good for aluminum rims though?

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    Pro Tip for non weight weenies.

    I actually got this from GCN. If you are having issues with tesa/stans/etc tape not sticking well and bubbling a lot, you lay down a thin strip of 1 loop of electrical tape down in the channel only. So just default size electrical tape first, then go over that with tyvek, tesa, etc. The eletrical tape allows the sealing tape to stick better without bubbles. It's weird but it works. I don't need to do shit, because I use tyvek and it always lays down and sticks good for me.

    Also:
    If you are re-taping a rim. After you have removed all the old tape and you are at the point you are cleaning the residue off. Be chill with mineral spirits or whatever you are using to clean off the residue. I also advise from using goo gone.. My buddy had used goo gone and what happens is that some of that dripped down in the spoke holes and it doesn't really evaporate or clean out well. So he cleaned the rim with a lot of that and the stuff that went down in the spoke holes came back up after he taped the rim and you can see why his tape job would not work. I also notice that goo gone and those other citrus cleaners leave a slick surface on the rim. It's like a oil that doesn't clean off well. Thus your tape is not going to stick. I'd suggest Mineral Spirits then once done clean the rim very well with soap and water (dawn is fine). THEN DRY THE RIM COMPLETELY before taping again. I put the wheel/rim back on my bike and spin that sucker. Then I take the air compressor and really blow out every hole then let it sit overnight to dry. Granted not all people have that much time. I only have to re-tape my personal wheels maybe once every couple of years, but I tend to have to re-tape my friends wheels as we know tesa/etc doesn't last too long if you change tires a lot or had a crappy installation to begin with.

  96. #696
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcgurme View Post
    FattyStrippers [...]] went on my Mulefuts super easy, and sealed up right away. I bought the kit that included the 3M tape that's used as the "rim tape" to cover the spoke nipples and cutouts.
    [...] They're super lightweight, too.
    A bit of a zombie, but not much on the forum about this -

    I'm also using Fatty Stripper rim tape on mulefuts; painless. Originally i was going to stick with the stock rim strip, but the FS (3M brand reflective tape it looks like?) is actually _LIGHTER_ than the thinner (looking) original tape.

    While this is working well for me so far, what I haven't been able to find - is the 3M / FattyStripper tape appropriate to cover the cuttouts? To what max tire pressure? It seems like it might have much less (tensile) strength than OEM rim strips.

  97. #697
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    after some experience with both Tyvek and frost king, I've changed my mind. Thought Tyvek was great, but recently had to fix a busted spoke on front wheel and retape. The Tyvek (which had been on there maybe 1.5 -2 years) always held air great but after so long was such a time-consuming pita to try and remove from the (aluminum) rim that I ordered a new, different rim instead (wtb kom tough with TCS 2.0 -to match my rear rim, old rim was tcs 1.0) this rim comes with thin light rim strip to go over the holes (similar to combfilter's above trick with electrical tape-genius!) to facilitate taping and sealing up. Taped ver that with frost king-just like the rear rim I did last may. The rear wheel has held up to multiple tire changes with n tire bead sticking to tape and loses very little air, and the trick with gluing down the tape end with epoxy has worked well, but after 8 months it lifted up a tiny bit and I had to reapply a dab of epoxy, no big deal. It also came off cleanly after 8 months. No more Tyvek for me, is just too hard to remove; its like the adhesive is stronger than the tape itself. For me, wtb TCS rim w/ proprietary rim strip (or electrical tape in the center channel) overlaid with Frost King with the end epoxied down is the way to go.
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  98. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    ... Thought Tyvek was great, but recently had to fix a busted spoke on front wheel and retape. The Tyvek (which had been on there maybe 1.5 -2 years) always held air great but after so long was such a time-consuming pita to try and remove from the (aluminum) rim that I ordered a new, different rim ...
    Curious.
    • If the Tyvek holds so well, why not cut the Tyvek out around the nipple where you need to replace the spoke. When done, degrease & place a patch of Tyvek over the cutout you made. Will the Tyvek then hold well to itself, like it does at the end of the Tyvek wrap?
    • If you've riding the replacement, you've got the rim with Tyvek on it with which to do such a test?
    • Did you install a rim strip or a patch of masking or other tape over each nipple before doing the Tyvek wrap?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  99. #699
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Curious.
    [LIST][*]If the Tyvek holds so well, why not cut the Tyvek out around the nipple where you need to replace the spoke. When done, degrease & place a patch of Tyvek over the cutout you made.]
    This is exactly how I deal with spoke holes replacing spokes but tyvek on top of stans tape. It %100 works very well.
    I've been entertaining the idea of cutting squares or quarter size circles of tyvek tape and simply taping every spoke hole individually. I wager it'd work very well but then again, maybe not.

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  100. #700
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHALENARD View Post
    This is exactly how I deal with spoke holes replacing spokes but tyvek on top of stans tape. It %100 works very well.
    I've been entertaining the idea of cutting squares or quarter size circles of tyvek tape and simply taping every spoke hole individually. I wager it'd work very well but then again, maybe not.
    Like your patch, but I wonder about Tyvek on Tyvek. It seems to do well enough at the wrap-around seam.

    I do the opposite of what you propose. I put a patch of tape that doesn't stick overly well over each nipple - easy to remove - then put whatever tape wrapped over that. That way it's easy to cut out around the nipple if I ever have to. I've never had to, so I don't know how well it works... And it acts like a rim-strip to protect the wrap/tube from wearing on the nipple; at least that's the theory. YRMV
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  101. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Curious.
    • If the Tyvek holds so well, why not cut the Tyvek out around the nipple where you need to replace the spoke. When done, degrease & place a patch of Tyvek over the cutout you made. Will the Tyvek then hold well to itself, like it does at the end of the Tyvek wrap?
    • If you've riding the replacement, you've got the rim with Tyvek on it with which to do such a test?
    • Did you install a rim strip or a patch of masking or other tape over each nipple before doing the Tyvek wrap?
    I haven't had good luck with tape "patches". They seem to lift off pretty quickly. its more like it was time for a new rim anyway (rim was 4 years old and had some flat spots/rim dings) and I really like the tcs 2.o system so I was like screw it ill just order the new rim I want to get anyway (I build my own wheels) I did not have anything between the Tyvek and the nipple holes, but the new rim comes with a light rim strip that's meant to go between spoke holes and tubeless tape.

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  102. #702
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    I patch Kapton with Kapton with no issues.
    What, me worry?

  103. #703
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    I did a tape patch almost 2 years ago and it's still on and holding air fine. The funny part is that it's some inexpensive thin, generic clear packaging tape. It was the common broken spoke and about to head out for a ride. I had no time and didn't want to install a tube. I took a chance and it worked and is still working. I worried a bit about it until I did a tire swap and it looked just fine with no evidence of rolling up or separating. It is on top of Stan's Tape. I incorporated standard practices of good cleaning and cut the smallest slit necessary to get the nipple through.
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  104. #704
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    Iím an amateur wheelbuilder for family and friends, and have worked with all the popular carbon brands, ENVE, WAO, SC Reserve, DT Swiss, NOX, LB, etc. I also have a friend in the aerospace world that builds pre-preg carbon parts in his spare time for RC planes and car projects. Reading this whole thread it seems a common complaint is tape not sticking to carbon. My friend and had a discussion, so hereís my 2 cents.

    Bottom line, most of the tapes listed here should stick equally to aluminum or carbon, with the proper prep. The problem comes with molded carbon parts. Molded parts require a mold release agent so they can get pulled from the mold. In high pressure or vacumn molding itís inevitable that some release agent gets into the carbon. This stuff is very tenacious and simple solvent wipes donít remove all of it.

    Typical mold release agent:

    https://webaps.ellsworth.com/edl/Act...52&language=en

    It might require solvent and abrasive cleaning to get a well prepped surface.

    Paper on paint prep for carbon:

    http://www.iccm-central.org/Proceedi...apers/4306.pdf

    So hereís a procedure I use that seems to work well:

    1. Wipe down thoroughly with solvent (usually alcohol or acetone) to remove as much mold release as possible.
    2. Cut a strip of red 3M scotchbrite to fit rim width. Used in the automotive world for paint prep. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...8710964&rt=rud
    3. Make one pass around rim slowly with a back-and-forth sanding motion.
    4. Vacumn dust and wipe down with solvent.
    5. Flip scothbrite to other side and make second pass.
    6. Vacumn dust and wipe down with solvent.
    7. Let dry well and tape

    You should notice a big difference in the tape sticking, and an added bonus, it smooths the rim and knocks off burrs around spoke holes and seams, another tape failure point.

  105. #705
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    A couple of pics:

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  106. #706
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin_sbay View Post
    Related, I just ordered this powder coating masking tape. Amazon housebrand. Will be first time trying.

    1" X 72 Yds, $7.55
    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...dp/B00CKGIBYE/
    Quick update. This tape has held up very well for me, knock on wood.

    It doesn't stretch that much and isn't super pliable, so there are some tape lines/ridges that result. But those aren't visible, of course. Sorry, no photos.

    Works and cheap. A good combo.

  107. #707
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    i think im just about ready to re-tape my carbon rims.

    im trying kapton tape and i first ordered a 30mm width until i realized the inner width of rim is only 23.4mm.

    i then placed an order for a 25mm tape. as the 30mm is on its way and will arrive sooner than the 25mm tape, so, would i be good to use the 30mm even its 7mm wider or is it too wide and should just wait for the 25mm width?

    thanks in advance.
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  108. #708
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    Some of us remember oldschool ghetto split tube tubeless!

    The thing with that... there was zero adhesion to the rim. There wasn't any adhesive at all actually. Realistically, tape works the same. You dont need the tape sticking to the rim at all, you need the tape sticking to itself. As you can tell from the tape being on the roll, it sticks extremely poorly to itself. We're more using internal tire pressure to keep the tape sealed, and that ends up working poorly.

    I think the epoxy idea is great. Or possibly scuffing the tape, or using a tape that heat seals or something. We're going at this in a super ghetto way that doesn't even make sense. We need to be trying to replicate, ironically, split tube ghetto tubeless but with a very thin tape. The tape END should be fused or strongly glued, the rest is really whatever as long as its not punctured.

  109. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by bapski View Post
    i think im just about ready to re-tape my carbon rims.

    im trying kapton tape and i first ordered a 30mm width until i realized the inner width of rim is only 23.4mm.

    i then placed an order for a 25mm tape. as the 30mm is on its way and will arrive sooner than the 25mm tape, so, would i be good to use the 30mm even its 7mm wider or is it too wide and should just wait for the 25mm width?

    thanks in advance.
    I WOULDN'T use 25 tape, instead I'd use 30. Well, 28 is the best (2 mm each edge) but 30 also ok. My point - wider is better! To place a tape on vertical inner sides of rim is must-do!
    OK

  110. #710
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    Hello y'all

    Has anyone of you tried tubeless rim tape from aliexpress for MTB rim (30-35mm)? Is it working properly or should just go for Tesa 4289 tape? I do not want Gorilla tape..


    I mean tape like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000223520538.html

  111. #711
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    ^^^^ You have other options besides aliexpress and 4289.
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  112. #712
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    Oh yeah I know. I haven't read whole topic but from what I read all over the internet it seems that people are using Gorilla tape the most, this Tesa and Stan's.. At least I think. But I just wanted to know if someone has tried this cheap one form Aliexpress. Also bike-components.de sell one of their own: https://www.bike-components.de/de/bc...enband-p71615/

    I am from europe so I cannot get everything what was mention here. But If you have some cheap tip for 30mm MTB rims better than this I am opened to discussion.

  113. #713
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    Tesa!
    13Ä for 66 m!
    Any & every size you want!
    Works 100000% perfect!
    OK

  114. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woko_O View Post
    Hello y'all

    Has anyone of you tried tubeless rim tape from aliexpress for MTB rim (30-35mm)? Is it working properly or should just go for Tesa 4289 tape? I do not want Gorilla tape.
    Go with tesa tape (#4298), or 3m strapping tape (#8896) - i've use both and they are pretty much identical. As listed numerous other places, this is identical or nearly so to OEM products such as SunRingle tape.

    I see you are running skinny rims. My experience is with Fatties ... but those are only more difficult. I've taped Mulefut 80's with factory "perfect width tape", and with my own custom method with the 1" strapping tape.


    • install rim strip IFF you have cuttouts. Strapping tape on its own is more than sufficient for just the nipples (single wall) or the holes (double wall)
    • clean the rim with alchohol or acetone, focusing on the bead lock area
    • start in the middle of the rim a few inches past the valve hole, holding down the tape.
    • as you turn the wheel, ease the tape over to the bead / lock area on one side.
    • do two full revolutions on that side. As you tape, force a tiny bit of "curl" up the rim wall/hook by angling the tape slightly "out"
    • continuing to turn, ease to the other side. two layers
    • make a hole for the valve. I melt it, i'm sure knife is fine.
    • inflate a TUBE in the rim, leave it in the sun for an hour or overnight inside.
    • profit.


    having tape LESS wide than the rim, perhaps counter intuitively, makes things WAY easier, since you can focus on just one bead at a time. Your hands will be tired, but it only takes 5 minutes and a fraction of a $10 tape roll.

    That sweet, sweet tubeless? PRICELESS.

  115. #715
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    Well I'll go for Tesa. Thank you. Even for the guide and manual.

    But are you sure with that LESS wide statement? I know just to cover holes of spokes is OK, but it should be also in the bead profile. So I think if I have 30mm rim (inside) I should use something like 32mm tape (because of the middle channel). At least it is recommended..

  116. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woko_O View Post
    if I have 30mm rim (inside) I should use something like 32mm tape (because of the middle channel).
    I'd go with 34-35 mm !! Couple of mms each bead-side up.
    OK

  117. #717
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    ^+1
    I always go for wider than the rim bed, preferably I go up the wall at least 2mm to 3mm. This way you only have to worry about sealing two places, if you go with less than the tire bed you have four places to worry about. I got this habit from the times off ghetto tubeless, but this is a preference and sometimes this can make mounting tires more difficult because of the extra thickness. The only really wrong option is when the tape ends under the tire bead, this is asking for trouble when unseating tires.
    Don't recall all the tapes I tried, but currently my preference is the Tesa tape.

  118. #718
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    ^+1
    I always go for wider than the rim bed, preferably I go up the wall at least 2mm to 3mm. This way you only have to worry about sealing two places, if you go with less than the tire bed you have four places to worry about. I got this habit from the times off ghetto tubeless, but this is a preference and sometimes this can make mounting tires more difficult because of the extra thickness. The only really wrong option is when the tape ends under the tire bead, this is asking for trouble when unseating tires.
    Don't recall all the tapes I tried, but currently my preference is the Tesa tape.
    I tend to go for just covering the rim bed (particularly on lower profile rims like Stan's 355's and Crest's) with whatever is handy... 3M strapping, DT Swiss or Stan's tape.

    I can replace tires 3-4 times before redoing the tape and find there is much less chance of catching it on the tire bead.
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  119. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    I'd go with 34-35 mm !! Couple of mms each bead-side up.
    All right. I can only buy 32mm or 35mm so I'll take the 35mm.. Thanks

  120. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woko_O View Post
    But are you sure with that LESS wide statement?
    less wide means you do each bead one at a time.

    You absolutely do both beads, but it's much easier to get perfect results just optimizing one bead at a time.

    it's certainly possible to do wider, however:
    • as above, one pass (per final layer) with "full width" is much harder than two passes with the narrower tape
    • the weight difference is basically zero, the tape is so light.
    • to do full width, you need it just right width - which for many rims would mean more expensive tape. I've done Mulefuts several times with the OEM tape, but I haven't used it since I found the narrow Tesa tape.

  121. #721
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    I do not tape on the rim sides. Bed only and stop at the radius where the flat begins to curve up. Multiple tire swaps each season and no issues. I can get years out of a single tape job.

    What is reason to tape the rim sidewalls? For me personally, I can't think of any given that I have been do this for 10 years now problem free.
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  122. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by high_desert_mud View Post
    less wide means you do each bead one at a time.

    You absolutely do both beads, but it's much easier to get perfect results just optimizing one bead at a time.

    it's certainly possible to do wider, however:
    • as above, one pass (per final layer) with "full width" is much harder than two passes with the narrower tape
    • the weight difference is basically zero, the tape is so light.
    • to do full width, you need it just right width - which for many rims would mean more expensive tape. I've done Mulefuts several times with the OEM tape, but I haven't used it since I found the narrow Tesa tape.
    Ah, now I understand how you meant it.. Yeah, that is good idea. But wouldn't be there a problem in the connection of those two halves? I don't care about weight..

    I do not tape on the rim sides. Bed only and stop at the radius where the flat begins to curve up. Multiple tire swaps each season and no issues. I can get years out of a single tape job.

    What is reason to tape the rim sidewalls? For me personally, I can't think of any given that I have been do this for 10 years now problem free
    I don't think people do the rim sides with tape. There is no reason for that as you said. But complete rim bed should be covered and in that case the tape will not move and just seal properly.

  123. #723
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    While I understand why people tape sidewall to sidewall I've found this to be more problematic than just taping the channel. At least for a guy that changes a lot of tires. I've not had the edges of my tape jobs unstick or proliferate with sealant which I attribute to prep and attention to detail when applying. However l, I have had tape that runs up into the bead get all buggered up which is the beginning of the end. My front wheel tape is currently 3 seasons old and has seen roughly 12 tires.

    I used DT tape for my last rear wheel build and I'm a fan. It's like a much improved version of Stan's. Thick yet stretchy (conforms WAY better with less creases and bubbles) and FAR better adhesive

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  124. #724
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead!

    Quote Originally Posted by Woko_O View Post
    Ah,
    seriously:
    1) get Tesa
    2) get 4-5 mm wider than your rim ID
    3) cover the rim with two layers

    You're good for eternal life. Period.


    p.s. as for placing a tape on bead sides - the bead of tyre will lay on tape and it will be better (tighter) then bead of tyre on rim (on alluminium).
    p.p.s. when it's whole wide tape on rim - it's better for situation when you will make a hole for presta valve. there'll be no any kind of seams.
    p.p.p.s. sorry for bad engl.
    OK

  125. #725
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    Perhaps for narrow rims it doesn't matter; in my experience it did matter quite a bit for Fatties; and since i started doing this to fat tires, it has also worked great for several Skinny rims in the ~i45 ish range.

    I guess some pictures are worth about 27.5 replies

    Here's a mulefut. There are often manufacturing artifacts (such as these vent holes) that are VERY close to the bead seat. So we're accomplishing:
    • seal the big stuff
      • cuttouts (fat rims), nipples, nipple-holes (double walls)

    • seal the small stuff
      • vent holes, rim seam if not welded
      • these can typically seal on their own, but it takes a while and it's not a sure thing. I like a sure thing.

    • provide a clean interface AT the bead lock.
      • for "good" tubeless rims coupled with reasonably tight tires, I agree you might need to tape the bead for beadlock. But I've had issues with older rims, or tires that happen to be on the larger end of their tolerance. So, I go foolproof since it takes ~$1 and 5 minutes.And you still have those vent holes, and the rim gap if it's pinned (not welded)



    A naked SunRingle MuleFut 80:


    I start here, inside of the bead lock. This is only so I don't end up with a sharp seam away from the sealing area.


    then quickly but smoothly transition to the beadlock


    and basically "err" slightly on the side of the vertical wall. If you go to far it will fold - but with one side, and the 1" tape, it's EASY to do it well; YMMV but i find it much easier than full-width



    the final layout for SKINNY rims. Note if you have internal > 55mm (but not fat), three runs of Tesa works as well)


    now, i'm showing a fat rim: in case someone comes here for this, I haven't shown the following:

    FAT / large rim cutouts only:
    • first put in a rim strip. I like fatty stripper / 3m relective tape - it's plenty durable enough, and is actually LIGHTER than the default plastic/vinyl strips.
    • then tape the beadlock as above. The Tesa tape will overlap the rim strip a tiny bit.
    • finally, seal it all down the middle (not beadlocks) with tyvek house tape (also dirt cheap, basically weightless, sticks insanely well - which is why you don't tape it to your rim aluminum directly, you will never get it off!


    This is trivial do do for ANY rim width, no matter how fat, is as light or lighter than other approaches, removes easily from the rim later (only Tesa contacts the aluminum) and seals like a CHAMP good luck.



    Like any tubeless tape job - don't forget to inflate a TUBE in the tire before you inflate it sans tube w/ sealant - the tube forces a prefect seat/bond on the tape or any bubbles before you get sealant in there (which will prevent adhesion of any un-stuck tape, of any method).

    Here's a few completed rims:
    1. one ultralight rim strip, I use reflective tape from FattyStripper
    2. tesa 4298 strapping tape (2 layers each side)
    3. one layer of tyvek house tape to ensure #1 and #2 stay sealed.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tape Thread-1-pxl_20200929_174917033.jpg  

    Tubeless Tape Thread-2-pxl_20200929_174954664.jpg  

    Tubeless Tape Thread-0-pxl_20200929_174846348.jpg  

    Tubeless Tape Thread-3-pxl_20200929_174958045.jpg  

    Tubeless Tape Thread-order-diagram.jpg  

    Tubeless Tape Thread-order-skinny-rims-capture.jpg  

    Tubeless Tape Thread-final-img_20200213_192503.jpg  


  126. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woko_O View Post
    Hello y'all

    Has anyone of you tried tubeless rim tape from aliexpress for MTB rim (30-35mm)? Is it working properly or should just go for Tesa 4289 tape? I do not want Gorilla tape..


    I mean tape like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000223520538.html
    That looks really interesting, especially the part about it being a bit stretchy. might give it a try sure is cheap enough!
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  127. #727
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    I think it will be allright. One member from different forum mention that he tried and he said it is fine.

    If you try it give a review..

  128. #728
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    Just an update on Kapton tape.
    Iíve had it on my BTLOS carbon wheels since 03/19. Iím getting ready to sell this bike in a month or two so I thought Iíd take a look at the tape before hand. I thought that the finish end of the tape would probably be compromised by now but not at all. The tape looks as new as the day it was put on. This through two tire changes.
    One item of note on this was I went with 3/4Ē (19mm) tape and did each side in two wraps (one piece of tape.
    Next time I think Iíll get 35mm tape (for 30mm id) and do one wrap.
    My new bike comes with DTSwiss al rims so Iím hoping when the time comes to rewrap that the Kapton will work as good on the al rims as it did on the carbon.

  129. #729
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    I do 1 wrap of Kapton. The stuff is easy to apply conforming the rim shape lying flat with no wrinkles, holds up great, comes off leaving essentially no residue. I've poked a hole in it to replace a broken spoke and patched with a short length of tape. I don't see much room for improvement.

    On high pressure road rims (~100 psi) I use two layers.
    What, me worry?

  130. #730
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    Just wanted to add my experience. This is on a dt Swiss ex571 30mm iw wheel. I originally purchased 35mm muc off tape. I tried a bit and it was too wide where it would go on the bead lip. I went to REI and all they had was 30mm wtb tape so I went with it. Iíd say quality of the tape itself was mediocre. The ends of the tape would split where I had to restart a couple of times. Once I got it going, I was able to get a good seal by pulling and smoothing with my thumb over and over.

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