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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    You're making assumptions Literally...Nope the original 2016 post doesn't appeared to have been updated and the OP was not Combfilter.

    Help me out here...
    One of us is clearly taking crazy pills...

    As far as I can tell, the original poster was indeed combfilter, and all the way at the bottom of the first post it shows:

    Last edited by combfilter; 2 Hours Ago at 01:54 PM.
    I see that the original post was from 8/12/2014. I suspect you simply scrolled up to the top of page 4, where the topmost post was from 2016, and not from combfilter, and most certainly not the original post.

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    You're making assumptions Literally...Nope the original 2016 post doesn't appeared to have been updated and the OP was not Combfilter.

    Help me out here...
    http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/...l#post11381946

  3. #403
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    at the bottom of post #1 you will see where I wrote

    2/12/18: Update.
    Came back to check on thread and see if I needed to add any new entries. As of this date and doing lots of tires on different rims this is my personal observation. If you want the tape to last and peel up fine and have the best of both of those worlds, the Tyvek tape is the best. I find that it never peels up from the edge, but somehow is easy to peel off if you need to sell the rim. I find it the lightest and really the toughest. If you tape it right with this stuff you can literally just use 1 layer. I use 2 since its so light. The only sucky think about tyvek is that you have to cut it size. Which blows if you mess up while trying to cut it with a razor blade. It would be awesome if there was a way to outsource some company that could cut this down to 22mm size or whatever size you wanted.

    My 2nd choice would be kapton. It's dirt cheap and you can get it close to your size. I have found this to work on rims for 6-12months. Eventually it will peel up but most of you raw dawgs out there will be finished with a tire by then.

    3rd choice is the green poly tape. It's dirt cheap too.

    Tyvek ftw till I find something else.

    Let me know if I need to update, but for now I don't see a better tape IMO than tyvek
    .

    That's what I updated. Like the man said. Today.

  4. #404
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    Oh geezzz....My mistake, I didn't go back far enough.

    My bad, I just added to confusion, where confusion didn't exist.

    Apologies to all.
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  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Oh geezzz....My mistake, I didn't go back far enough.

    My bad, I just added to confusion, where confusion didn't exist..
    I dont think anybody would disagree that this place can be confusing and have plenty of contradicting information... But you did seem to take a pretty aggressive stance earlier. And now you're trying to deflect as if its everyone else's fault for producing such a confusing thread? Are you having a bad day or something?

  6. #406
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    That's funny...

    Nope, I accept all responsibility for being a knucklehead on this one.
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  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    That's funny...

    Nope, I accept all responsibility for being a knucklehead on this one.
    In which case I must have misinterpreted your post. I rescind any earlier criticism. Everyone has a little derp from time to time.

  8. #408
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    New: Blue Tuck Tape.
    In Canada we now have a new blue type of tuck tape that may be a good substitute for tyvek tape if tyvek is not available.
    Last edited by biked2school; 02-13-2018 at 08:37 PM.

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  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    :updated original post:
    Thanks for the thread. It's been very informative. Without it , I don't think I would have ever considered using Tyvek tape. And I've had excellent results with it. It's reasonable and it really works good.

  11. #411
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    Direct link on ebay for exact Tyvek tape plz..
    OK

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    Love this thread. After having bad experiences with the 3m tape on 29i carbon rims, I'm excited to try the Tyvek tape. Can someone share their best method on cutting it to a proper width? Assuming the roll is around 6" in diameter, one would have to cut 5 layers deep with a razor to get approximately the length required for 1 layer on a 29" rim (just under 8' in circumference).

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    Guys get #4289 Tesa Strapping Tape and be done with it! BTW, same as Stan's.
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Love this thread. After having bad experiences with the 3m tape on 29i carbon rims, I'm excited to try the Tyvek tape. Can someone share their best method on cutting it to a proper width? Assuming the roll is around 6" in diameter, one would have to cut 5 layers deep with a razor to get approximately the length required for 1 layer on a 29" rim (just under 8' in circumference).
    I haven't tried cutting the Tyvek tape yet, but with Gorrilla tape, I score a line at the correct width with my calipers and then carefully use an exacto knife to trace the line as deeply as I feel comfortable pressing. Sometimes a second pass is needed.

    Curious to learn if there's a better method though.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bhaalgorn View Post
    Curious to learn if there's a better method though.
    Find a tape that is the correct width?
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  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Find a tape that is the correct width?
    This seems easier said than done and also limits a person to a particular width instead of a particular tape. For instance, the inner width of my rims is 29mm, but when you take into account the channel arc length, I need a width closer to 33mm. I want the width of the tape to extend to the bottom of both flanges. Know of any tapes that are exactly 33mm in width? I don't.

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    This seems easier said than done and also limits a person to a particular width instead of a particular tape. For instance, the inner width of my rims is 29mm, but when you take into account the channel arc length, I need a width closer to 33mm. I want the width of the tape to extend to the bottom of both flanges. Know of any tapes that are exactly 33mm in width? I don't.
    Tubeless Tape Thread-61d4kiiijxl._sl1500_.jpg

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by literally View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	61d4KIiijXL._SL1500_.jpg 
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    Fair enough, but isn't the point of this thread to avoid paying outrageously marked-up tape prices? The product you posted is $19 + $3 shipping for 30' of tape. That is 9x more expensive (per foot) than the Tyvek and would only be enough to tape 3 wheels with 1 layer of tape. No thanks.

  20. #420
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    Everyone has their opinions and preferences on tubeless tape, but I have successfully used Stan's almost exclusively with zero issues or problems on many wheel sets. I have wheels that I taped with Stan's 10 years ago that have endured many, many tire swaps and are still doing great.

    I have never tried Tyvek, but I would consider that if I didn't have to cut it to fit my rims. I have never used Gorilla Tape, but I have helped several friends remove it for a fresh tape job and it was a real pain in the a$$. Far more energy and effort than it was worth to clean up for fresh tape.
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Fair enough, but isn't the point of this thread to avoid paying outrageously marked-up tape prices? The product you posted is $19 + $3 shipping for 30' of tape. That is 9x more expensive (per foot) than the Tyvek and would only be enough to tape 3 wheels with 1 layer of tape. No thanks.
    hey, you asked if there were any and i showed you.

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    how i cut tape

    Tubeless Tape Thread-p5pb8465542.jpg

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by literally View Post
    hey, you asked if there were any and i showed you.
    And I acknowledged as such when I said "fair enough". The rest of my posting was simply why I wasn't interested. I'd rather do the small amount of work required and pay 1/9th the price. So, in the most literal phrasing possible, thanks but no thanks.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    Fair enough, but isn't the point of this thread to avoid paying outrageously marked-up tape prices?
    No, based on the OP's original post, I saw this thread as the OP's observations and experience with multiple types of tapes along with his notes on each. It might have morphed into what you have described though.

    Given the infusion of $ we all place into this chosen venue of mountain biking, I fail to understand how some get wrapped around the axle on spending around $20 on a roll that I can get two complete wheel sets taped (4 wheels). $5 per wheel taped that (for me) will last years and many tire swaps. Assuming I can get 3 years from a tape job (I can expect more than this), then your cost per wheel is less than $2 per year. YMMV.

    I will drop $20 without thinking about it on a brief evening with friends on a few good, hand crafted double IPA's, or gas money just to get to a good trail head to ride, or a whole lot more on tires and sealant for just one season of riding.

    I have to question what are people spending on their bikes? How does this expense compare to your overall costs?
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  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Guys get #4289 Tesa Strapping Tape and be done with it! BTW, same as Stan's.
    Where can a person purchase a roll of Tesa 4289 in the US? Thanks.

  26. #426
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    Goggle it. I found too many to list
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  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Goggle it. I found too many to list
    I did that...duh! I only found two single roll listings. One on Ebay that will not work for me because it's only 19mm wide. The other listing was from the UK which ends up being too costly. Everything else are cases of 72 or 96.

    That's why I was asking "Simplemind".

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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    I did that...duh! I only found two single roll listings. One on Ebay that will not work for me because it's only 19mm wide. The other listing was from the UK which ends up being too costly. Everything else are cases of 72 or 96.

    That's why I was asking "Simplemind".
    The 18mm tape will work in most applications, as you don't need to go from bead to bead. As long as the holes are well covered, then you're good. I use 18 mm on my 28mm NOX without issues. Now, that said, I did buy a 48 mmm roll from that same (good) seller on eBay. She may still have inventory, just not listed it on eBay. Let me know what you come up with!
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  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    I did that...duh! I only found two single roll listings. One on Ebay that will not work for me because it's only 19mm wide. The other listing was from the UK which ends up being too costly. Everything else are cases of 72 or 96.

    That's why I was asking "Simplemind".
    You can't get Stan's Tape in the UK?
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  31. #431
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    ^^^^ Hmmmm...Have you already applied it?

    Report back and let us know how this works out.
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  32. #432
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    I have and so far I'm impressed!

    I just applied tape to a spare set for the photo here as the set I'm trying it on is all setup.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-29388678_10208952206682862_6516055095631675392_o.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-29386866_10208952206322853_1033396876906332160_o.jpg

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bhaalgorn View Post
    I haven't tried cutting the Tyvek tape yet, but with Gorrilla tape, I score a line at the correct width with my calipers and then carefully use an exacto knife to trace the line as deeply as I feel comfortable pressing. Sometimes a second pass is needed.

    Curious to learn if there's a better method though.
    There are a few tricks to make cutting Gorilla tape easier, but I've not found it necessary. Similar to duct tape, once you start to tear it length-wise the tear will stay in that same spot.

    Also, they make Gorilla tape in 1" widths and I've found that works well with most rims.

    That said, I may give Tyvek a try. Not that I've had many issues with Gorilla tape.

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by boboxx View Post
    I have and so far I'm impressed!
    I'm thinkin' that I might wanna try this stuff!

    It's a little stretchy huh? It looks like it would be easy to apply. Sticks well?
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  35. #435
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    It has a nice thickness, stick well but leaves no residue and you can stretch it to the form of the rim profile.

    I'm not sure how the glue will handle the ammonia but time will tell.

  36. #436
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    I'm writing this out of ignorance because my wheels don't have spoke holes and thus don't require rim tape or rim strips. Why isn't there a rim strip that seals without the need for rim tape? Seems like a royal pain to have to tape the rim to seal the spoke holes and even then, how effective is that in preventing leaks? Why can't the rim strip seat up against the tire beads and seal the tire?

  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    I'm writing this out of ignorance because my wheels don't have spoke holes and thus don't require rim tape or rim strips. Why isn't there a rim strip that seals without the need for rim tape? Seems like a royal pain to have to tape the rim to seal the spoke holes and even then, how effective is that in preventing leaks? Why can't the rim strip seat up against the tire beads and seal the tire?
    there are some rim strips that do just that - the bontrager tlr is the first that comes to mind. i'm guessing the taping method took off because it's lighter and cheaper for both the rim/wheel manufacturer and the customer.
    having used both i'd prefer a dedicated strip like the bonty tlr for its ease of installation and use but i've never had a taped rim leak or otherwise have any issues either.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by boboxx View Post
    It has a nice thickness, stick well but leaves no residue and you can stretch it to the form of the rim profile.

    I'm not sure how the glue will handle the ammonia but time will tell.
    Good find boboxx. Which tape is that again? I like the stretchy transparency of it.
    The link in your above post sent me to some cloth hockey stick tape.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Noclutch View Post
    Good find boboxx. Which tape is that again? I like the stretchy transparency of it.
    The link in your above post sent me to some cloth hockey stick tape.
    https://renfrewpro.com/renfrewhomepa...?ProductID=902
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  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by boboxx View Post
    HAHAHA!! I live here in Hawaii. Not much hockey here. Though yeah, another realization that mail order is every thing here in hick down Waimea, Hawaii.

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by literally View Post
    there are some rim strips that do just that - the bontrager tlr is the first that comes to mind. i'm guessing the taping method took off because it's lighter and cheaper for both the rim/wheel manufacturer and the customer.
    having used both i'd prefer a dedicated strip like the bonty tlr for its ease of installation and use but i've never had a taped rim leak or otherwise have any issues either.
    Is the Bontrager rim strip only for specific Bontrager rims?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    Is the Bontrager rim strip only for specific Bontrager rims?
    yes they're molded to fit the inner rim profile perfectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    Is the Bontrager rim strip only for specific Bontrager rims?
    You might want to check out Caffelatex tubeless rim strips. Rather pricey, but work really well. They are made by Effetto Mariposa who have various tubeless products.

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    Do any of the rim strips have humps for the bead to seat against like true tubeless rims have?

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    Quote Originally Posted by boboxx View Post
    What is the width of this tape?

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    I just finished my first TL installation on used wtb frequency i23. Had some issues with properly installing WTB/Stans/Tesa tape due to weird profile with nipple holes and too wide tape. Then also tried Orange Seal tape. This is probably the worst tape one can imagine. Stay away from it. I actually tore it on two attempts when pulling to install it, WTF?? Then went to buy some Gorilla tape, seated the bead w/o sealant, added Cafelatex and so far so good. I don't mind the sticky residue as I will probably throw the wheels away when I buy new wheels.

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    I used the Tyvek tape on my new rear wheel on Friday, So far I have ridden 3 days, One jump/dirt park day and two days on the trails and have had absolutely no leaks at all, so in that aspect so far so good.

    Now some of the issues I kept having during installation is the tape kept tearing when I was installing it onto the rim (tears very easily). I literally had to pull the the amount of tape needed off of the roll, have someone hold one end while I applied the other end to the rim.
    After I was satisfied that the tape was on properly I did attempt to remove the tape to see how well it came off and as I peeled evenly (only about .25 inch) it off it began to tear; at that point I stopped and reapplied that small piece.

    I say that to say this, removal of the tyvek may prove very hard to do (maybe using a heat gun may make the process easier), but I don't really forsee myself having to remove it unless it fails to hold a seal. Only time will tell.

    I can definitely say Stans tape is good stuff (minus the price), I have had the same strip of Stans tape on my front wheel for about a year and a half with multiple tire changes and haven't had any issues with significant air loss. I just check before each ride and its always good to go.

    Hope this info was helpful.
    Last edited by riding4life; 05-21-2018 at 12:31 PM.

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    Hopefully I'm understanding your question right, but the quick answer is probably no. But to further expound, The rim strips don't really require anything additional since they are usually thin enough to not interfere with the tire bead and rim interface.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by riding4life View Post
    I can definitely say Stans tape is good stuff (minus the price), I have had the same strip of Stans tape on my front wheel for about a year and a half with multiple tire changes and haven't had any issues with significant air loss. I just check before each ride and its always good to go.
    I have been a fan of Stan's for many years. I have multiple wheel sets and a few that have are more than 5 years on Stan's tape and who knows how many thousands of miles and tire swaps with complete success and no issues.

    Stan's is easy to install and easy to remove. Some enjoy whimpering about the price, but for about $11, I can get two wheel sets (4 rims) that last for years. You can do the math.

    If I could only get tires to last this long.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    I have been a fan of Stan's for many years. I have multiple wheel sets and a few that have are more than 5 years on Stan's tape and who knows how many thousands of miles and tire swaps with complete success and no issues.

    Stan's is easy to install and easy to remove. Some enjoy whimpering about the price, but for about $11, I can get two wheel sets (4 rims) that last for years. You can do the math.

    If I could only get tires to last this long.

    I concur, its Good Quality. I have had to remove my stans tape from my rear wheel two occasions due to 1) having multiple spokes break on a ride and 2) getting a new rear hub; and I must say, It came off just as easily as it went on. Absolutely no complaints there!!! And I do agree again, yes the math is pretty good considering how long it will last.

    I just enjoy finding new ways and options. But I guess the old saying can apply here, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

    BUT.................

    I was one of those kids that would take radios apart, toys, remote control cars, ect and tinker with them just to see what would happen and if I could get them to work again. :-)

  51. #451
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    ^^^^ Speak of broken spokes and the emanate failure of the tape...

    I have a rear wheel that broke a spoke (only one spoke) and it went through the tape. I had a weekend of rides planned with friends and being lazy and not really wanting to re-tape my wheel, I just placed a small piece of packaging tape over the hole. Reinstalled the tire and it held air, so I rode. That was just over two years ago and it's still holding air. I never re-taped the wheel.
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  52. #452
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    What is the point of buying tape that is not the proper width, and having to cut it to width with a razor blade? I've got better things to do with my time just to save a few bucks. False economy IMO. Use Stan's yellow tape.

  53. #453
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    Any tips on how to tape? I got some air bubbles in my Stan's yellow tape. Worked most of them out but some remain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    Any tips on how to tape? I got some air bubbles in my Stan's yellow tape. Worked most of them out but some remain.
    Did you put a tube in overnight or even ride it with a tube at relatively high pressure for at least a day before?
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    oops, double post
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  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    What is the point of buying tape that is not the proper width, and having to cut it to width with a razor blade? I've got better things to do with my time just to save a few bucks. False economy IMO. Use Stan's yellow tape.
    Because Tyvek is way cheaper, readily available at home depot, much longer roll, sticks to the rim better, easier to apply, and does not come off with the tire when i change tires. Worth it.
    '18 banshee rune

  57. #457
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Did you put a tube in overnight or even ride it with a tube at relatively high pressure for at least a day before?
    No but what does a tube do that the same air pressure in the tire without the tube doesn't? Same force/pressure acting upon the tape.

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Because Tyvek is way cheaper, readily available at home depot, much longer roll, sticks to the rim better, easier to apply, and does not come off with the tire when i change tires. Worth it.
    Reading some of the posts in this thread, it doesn't seem it's all that great.

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    No but what does a tube do that the same air pressure in the tire without the tube doesn't? Same force/pressure acting upon the tape.
    Mold the tape to the rimís contour?


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  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by literally View Post
    yes they're molded to fit the inner rim profile perfectly.
    Yes, these black plastic strips (endless loops) are made to fit specific rim only, are not sticky, and hold very well with my Bontrager 27.5 rims. Cannot be reused, but I never had to replace them yet. Bontrager also sells blue tape for wide rims; I use it with my carbon Line Pro 40 rims with no complaints. Not sure who the actual manufacturer of this blue tape is.
    Last edited by kosulin; 05-27-2018 at 11:02 AM. Reason: misspelled

  61. #461
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

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  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by riding4life View Post
    I used the Tyvek tape on my new rear wheel on Friday, So far I have ridden 3 days, One jump/dirt park day and two days on the trails and have had absolutely no leaks at all, so in that aspect so far so good.

    Now some of the issues I kept having during installation is the tape kept tearing when I was installing it onto the rim (tears very easily). I literally had to pull the the amount of tape needed off of the roll, have someone hold one end while I applied the other end to the rim.
    After I was satisfied that the tape was on properly I did attempt to remove the tape to see how well it came off and as I peeled evenly (only about .25 inch) it off it began to tear; at that point I stopped and reapplied that small piece.

    I say that to say this, removal of the tyvek may prove very hard to do (maybe using a heat gun may make the process easier), but I don't really forsee myself having to remove it unless it fails to hold a seal. Only time will tell.

    I can definitely say Stans tape is good stuff (minus the price), I have had the same strip of Stans tape on my front wheel for about a year and a half with multiple tire changes and haven't had any issues with significant air loss. I just check before each ride and its always good to go.

    Hope this info was helpful.
    In my experience tyvek isnít super difficult to remove from an aluminum rim, canít say for carbon. Yeah, it dies tend to tear a bit easily when applying, but Iíve found that you donít need to pull it as tight as Stanís when applying to get it to conform to the rim so thatís mitigated. Just pull tight enough that it doesnít tear and carefully rub it down into the rim with a rag as you go. Then install a tire with a tube for a day or two to really seal it down.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    No but what does a tube do that the same air pressure in the tire without the tube doesn't? Same force/pressure acting upon the tape.
    The tube constrains the air so it will only be pushing in one direction against the top of the tape. If no tube initially, if there are any small wrinkles or bubbles or areas not adhered well, the air and sealant can potentially get underneath the tape and counteract this (and possibly even escape out a spoke hole) Using a tube ensures the pressure will push evenly in only one direction sealing the tape flat against the rim and pushing out and away any air trapped underneath and really sealing it down and flattening any bubbles before you put sealant in. Could you get away with not doing this if you did a perfect taping job? Probably. Itís an extra step to ensure max performance and durability, and itís easy, so why not

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    Reading some of the posts in this thread, it doesn't seem it's all that great.
    Sure works well for me, and the OP sure seems to like it

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    Stan's doesn't adhere well to my Enve Carbon rims.

  66. #466
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    ^^^ That is prolly the best reason that I've heard.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    The tube constrains the air so it will only be pushing in one direction against the top of the tape. If no tube initially, if there are any small wrinkles or bubbles or areas not adhered well, the air and sealant can potentially get underneath the tape and counteract this (and possibly even escape out a spoke hole) Using a tube ensures the pressure will push evenly in only one direction sealing the tape flat against the rim and pushing out and away any air trapped underneath and really sealing it down and flattening any bubbles before you put sealant in. Could you get away with not doing this if you did a perfect taping job? Probably. Itís an extra step to ensure max performance and durability, and itís easy, so why not
    I've never done the tube step in any tubeless setup I've ever done. Not even fat bike. Press bubbles out by hand. Mount tire, pour in sealant and set to full rated pressure. I don't shake or spin the wheel for a couple hours. Then shake/spin check for leaks and go ride. Knock on wood never had any issues since I ditched gorilla Tape for kapton tape a few years ago.

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  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by boboxx View Post
    I have and so far I'm impressed!

    I just applied tape to a spare set for the photo here as the set I'm trying it on is all setup.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Tried the same brand today and got to 30psi to set bead and the tape let go. It split along the bead shelf. It's pretty flexible so I didn't over stretch it when applied but it also didnt sit in the recess of the rim so that could have caused the split. It's to bad as it's a great price and perfect width for crest.
    Last edited by machine4321; 05-31-2018 at 04:46 AM.

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    It split along the need shel.
    Need shel? What?
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    I'm a roadie, so I deal with tubeless pressures between 55-70psi on 28mm tires. My favorite tape remains that 2mil green powder coat masking tape. It's stretchier and thinner than Stan's. Adheres well to carbon rims, but also not difficicult to remove. It's not quite as stretchy as the blue 3M/Scotch tape, but also won't split like those tapes.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Need shel? What?
    Bead shelf. My phone is terrible lol

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by edubfromktown View Post
    Thanks & good to know as well...

    I ordered a roll of 8896 to use on my LB carbon and Stan's aluminum rims from now on.
    My only tape "failure" to date was one wrap with a bit of overlap of appropriately sized Stan's tape on a LB carbon rim that lasted just over 5 years. I cracked a 29er frame running that wheel set in less time After a few tire replacements, I'm guessing the bead caught the edge of the tape and started pulling away over time.

    I've been running two wraps of the 3m 8996 tape with Stan's sealant on a mix of LB carbon and Stan's ArchEX/Crest/FlowEX 29er rims with no issues.

    The 3m tape is more flexible than Stan's tape and seems to be slightly narrower... less chance of catching/peeling maybe too I guess.
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  73. #473
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    Combfilter, nice work on updates at the beginning. I never though I would use anything but Stans, but a few issues arose that caused me to buy so much tape, that I decided to try TYVEK. Works great. Stans is better, tougher, easier to use with the proper rim prep, but the cost per wheel is stupid. Too bad Stans does not sell a big roll of 40-50 yards for $20, along with their normal length offerings. I ended up taping about 10 wheels in the last year due to some tire failures/slashes, 2 sets of new rims(4), a carbon rim warranty, sold and bought ANOTHER set, etc etc. I was on a roll, and my STANS tape was lasting multiple tire changes, then boom! It hit me, 10 wheels recently. With my Newest DERBY set, I tried Orange seal, 18mm cover spoke holes only. Broke tape 1/2 way around first rim, thought, ok, this is more delicate. Single wrapped like STANS, but with Orange Seal the spoke hole ripped. Pretty lame. Double wrapped next time, seemed to solve any issues, but that tape is not for me. I dont care for taping spoke holes only, either. Even after proper prep, I had soapy water seep under tape. I barely soaped the beads with a damp sponge. It could have been a bad roll that I bought online, as it had a few bubles on NEW roll. I like the tape to be under the tire bead. So, In my opinion, the Orange Seal tape is not very good. I was not happy about buying STANS retail this morning, so instead, I stopped by Home Depot and bought TYVEK roll for $16. It is 50 meters for $16. Pretty sweet price. Its a bummer to cut it, so its not for everyone. I used new razor and a magazine that was the correct height. Also, I found it tends to rip, while wrapping on rim, so you cant manhandle it like STANs. I think cutting it on the rim after 2 wraps would have been easier than cutting the roll. Some people fail to understand that most rim walls form a perpendicular corner, while the tape can be applied so the side you are going to cut, CURVES up the rim wall, far from the corner you need to cut. This tape is brittle enough that you just drag a sharp razor along the apex of the tape, you dont need to apply cutting pressure to rim. After cutting apex, rub tape into the corner with a rag. The TYVEK tape is a bit trickier than STANS, but I like it. Thanks again. You saved me $30 in tape over the next year or 2. I cant wait to spend all the money I saved. But seriously, Stans just seemed like a rip off. If you ride 200 days per year, and take cool trips where you want fresh rubber, you will be switching alot of tires.

  74. #474
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    Please learn to use paragraphs and stop typing in a stream of consciousness.

  75. #475
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    Okay! (I dumbed it down for you).

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodzilla View Post
    Anybody try this out yet? Stucco Tape, a polyethylene film with rubber adhesive, supposed to come up clean. I need to tape up Mulefut 50's and am thinking of trying this out.
    Stucco MASKING Tapes have been the new goto for the past few years for sealing RVs and vehicles against the dust or holding on heat reflective covers at Burning Man. Holds in the dry desert heat & wind, releases easily without residue or surface damage after one to two weeks. PE444 and PE555 are both rated to 160F.
    Lots of elongation: 76% or 94%.
    Adhesion: 80/in or 92/in.
    Bad: only rated down to freezing, if you're winter biking.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Stucco MASKING Tapes have been the new goto for the past few years for sealing RVs and vehicles against the dust or holding on heat reflective covers at Burning Man. Holds in the dry desert heat & wind, releases easily without residue or surface damage after one to two weeks. PE444 and PE555 are both rated to 160F.
    Lots of elongation: 76% or 94%.
    Adhesion: 80/in or 92/in.
    Bad: only rated down to freezing, if you're winter biking.
    Man, totally forgot about this stuff. I tried it out but couldn't get it to stick onto fhe rim surface.

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    Thanks for the write up dude!

    Getting a new ride soon with Roval 38mm inner width carbon rims on it.

    Will Home Depot have the Tyvek tape in the right size?

    Checked on Amazon and looks like you have to buy bulk amounts there.

    Thanks for any help!

  79. #479
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    Home Depot has 2 inch tyvek rolls. You'll need to cut, but it's incredibly easy to cut cleanly and straight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Home Depot has 2 inch tyvek rolls. You'll need to cut, but it's incredibly easy to cut cleanly and straight.
    Cool. Thanks!

    Yeah, screw the overpriced Stan's stuff. And the Gorilla tape is too thick (esp trying to mount some brands of tires). Curious to check out the Tyvek!

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by camus View Post

    Will Home Depot have the Tyvek tape in the right size?
    For my fat-bike rims, yes.

    For others, you stretch it over just the same, then use an x-acto knife to trim against the rim edge.
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  82. #482
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    Alright heres my 3 week update, the rear wheel tyvek tape did not do the job. It worked great for 3 weeks and all of a sudden I lost all air on a ride and had to hike a bike for 2 miles (left my spare tube in the car)..

    I took the tire off and there were 2-3 points where the fluid was able to get under the tape and allow air out. Also When I removed the tape it left this horrible, difficult to remove residue around the entire rim. A Bit disappointing, but a good lesson learned.

    With that said, I'm going back to Stans Tape. My Front wheel is still holding strong after close to 2 years and many tire changes.
    Last edited by riding4life; 06-13-2018 at 09:57 PM.

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by riding4life View Post
    Alright heres my 3 week update, the rear wheel tyvek tape did not do the job. It worked great for 3 weeks and all of a sudden I lost all air on a ride and had to hike a bike for 2 miles (left my spare tube in the car)..

    I took the tire off and there were 2-3 points where the fluid was able to get under the tape and allow air out. Also When I removed the tape it left this horrible, difficult to remove residue around the entire rim. A Bit disappointing, but a good lesson learned.

    With that said, I'm going back to Stans Tape. My Front wheel is still holding strong after close to 2 years and many tire changes.
    Stan's tape is reported to be Tesa 4289. Why waste your time with Tyvek tape? Try the Tesa tape if you want to save money (still needs to be cut to width though).

  84. #484
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    Stan's tape..
    About $2.75 per wheel.
    Where's the money issue for a tape that (for me) can last years?
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  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Stan's tape..
    About $2.75 per wheel.
    Where's the money issue for a tape that (for me) can last years?
    If you roll only once, if you succeed with first try, if it's only your few wheels, if you don't change tyres often, if ...
    OK

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    If you roll only once, if you succeed with first try, if it's only your few wheels, if you don't change tyres often, if ...

    Why double wrap? I haven't taped many wheels but it seems like it's about as straightforward and easy as it gets. Also I don't change my tires very often but after about a half dozen of them the tape still seems fine and I can't see why I couldn't change a half dozen more.

    For sure I'm not opposed to saving money for an equal product but in the grand scheme of things wheel tape is a minor expense. I've gone through about $600 in tires with one $10 roll of stand tape.
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  87. #487
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    Mavic EN 827
    Michelin Force AM Competition Line GUM-X3D 27.5x2.35
    So f...g hard to set, that only after one time the tape probably wil be cut a lot.

    Yes, saving money here looks a little bit awkward but ... why not? If your friend will need some tape - you got it, 60 m for just 10$ (Tesa 4289).
    And yes, Tesa 4289 is almost the same as Stan's! I got both of them.


    p.s. sorry for bad english..
    OK

  88. #488
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    I can wholeheartedly NOT recommend Tyvek tape. I had mine last about 5 months on my fat bike before it failed (with 3 wraps of tape). It was an absolute nightmare to remove from the rim. No joke it took 3 hours and a combination of goo gone, mineral spirits, iso alcohol, and a flat bladed screwdriver to get all the residue off. I'm done being cheap!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    Stan's tape is reported to be Tesa 4289. Why waste your time with Tyvek tape? Try the Tesa tape if you want to save money (still needs to be cut to width though).
    Its not a money issue, I'm just a tinkerer and like like trying different things out. Non related, but I in love with Maxxis Minion tires and swore thats all I'd ever use, but today I just bought a Maxxis Aggressor just to test it out. I already have some Stans tape so maybe the next go-round I'll use Tesa 4289.


    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Stan's tape..
    About $2.75 per wheel.
    Where's the money issue for a tape that (for me) can last years?
    No Issue, My other wheel has had stans on it for close to 2 years. Just trying new things.

  91. #491
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    I use these with Stans Flow MK3. Best performance beating gorilla tape, stans tape, etc IMHO.

    https://www.specialized.com/nz/en/2b...-each/p/134014

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Stan's tape..
    About $2.75 per wheel.
    Where's the money issue for a tape that (for me) can last years?
    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    If you roll only once, if you succeed with first try, if it's only your few wheels, if you don't change tyres often, if ...
    Just a brief repeat of my post #449...

    I have been a fan of Stan's for many years. I have multiple wheel sets and a few that have are more than 5 years on Stan's tape and who knows how many thousands of miles and tire swaps with complete success and no issues.
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    Some updates with road carbon rims:

    Deep channels can be a problem with Kapton. Pull it tight enough to stick to the channel and there's a high risk the tape will break at the valve stem hole. Maxi 248 has a different problem: while it's capable of being stretched smooth, it doesn't stick well enough to maintain tension. I wasn't able to successfully overlap without a short crinkled section underneath.

    Tyvek is *much* stickier than Kapton, about the same thickness, and a bit more flexible, but also tears more easily. It only comes in 48mm width. I ruined a roll trying to narrow it with a box cutter. A tiny misalignment in my cut meant every turn of the roll caused the tape to shear at an angle. Very frustrating. I'd probably like it (though not much more than Kapton) if it came in 25mm width.

    I went back to Kapton with a different approach:

    * Full width, because I discovered sealant seepage when I removed my narrower tape, and if the tape extends beyond the channel without going full-width, changing tires will abrade the edge. Kapton is thin enough not to excessively pad the bead shelf.
    * Moderate tension, to reduce stress at the valve stem.
    * Two layers, for strength, and because Kapton is thin and weighs nothing.
    * Suspended above the channel, because the only place the tape actually has to touch the channel is at the valve stem.
    * With a short piece of Gorilla tap at the valve stem added before making the puncture.

    This works perfectly and it's what I intend to do with all of my rims, mountain included, the future.


    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_3989.jpg
    Last edited by alexdi; 07-11-2018 at 01:08 PM.

  94. #494
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    Tips for Tyvek users:
    - don't pull the tape that hard, you don't need to. Pull the amount you need with just enough tension and push it down as you go around. Watch the stans tape install video, do the same thing but at 1/4 the power he is using
    - do two layers. It's so light it still ends up being lighter than tesa and the others.
    - They sell 1.88" rolls on amazon that can managed a little easier. The benefit of getting the bigger roll at homedepot is you can offset your cuts. Like I just eyeball about 1/3 of the way down. The top half is for my 25mm internal width rims, and the bottom 1/2 is for my road tubeless rims which are 17mm. If it's a little bigger I just let it overlap and go around with a blade and cut at the beadwall. Yes on carbon, don't be a little bish..it wont hurt if you do it careful.

    Why use tyvek? because i've done this a long long time. It's the lightest and easist tape that forms very well to the channel, sticks on and stays on thru multiple tire changes, works with 60psi pressures of road tubeless or 17psi pressures of mtb, is cheap, it does not leave residue for me...not sure whats going on with the one guy that was bishing about tyvek leaving tape behind. Remember that very first tyvek post on that enve rim from 8/14/14?? That tape is still on that rim and I have changed tires on that wheel about 8-10x's at least with no issues. Yes I change that much..

    So that leads to my next point. I started this thread from the eyes of a tubeless convert that wanted tape that worked. I race both XC and Road and use tubless on both. When you pop the tire to top of stans or change it you often with stans tape , would peel that tape back a bit when you do that. This leads to stans getting under the tape and eventually leaking out. I hate this aspect of tubeless. Tyvek works the best for me and my applications which again is XC racing and Road. I am not riding fat bikes in Alaska or Enudro Bro shit in NC. You guys might require different tapes than I do.

    Tyvek is not the end all be all either. Rim strips work very well, but again I am racer boy Weight Weenie.

    Buying stans tape is retarded when you think about how little you get for what price.. Thus another good thing about this thread.. You have access to the same stuff a lot cheaper.

    hope that clears the air about tyvek.

  95. #495
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    Anyone notice this with Kapton tape?

    I use my own version of stans sauce. (BAMF's v.2.0) from the giant tubless thread. I believe stans home brew and orange seal are deteriorating the kapton tape. Wish I had a pic. I put kapton on another wheelset a bit ago just to test out and opened it up and it looked like the tape was like almost dissolved or deteriorated. I am guessing it's probably the ammonia in the home brew/orange seal?

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    Anyone notice this with Kapton tape?

    I use my own version of stans sauce. (BAMF's v.2.0) from the giant tubless thread. I believe stans home brew and orange seal are deteriorating the kapton tape. Wish I had a pic. I put kapton on another wheelset a bit ago just to test out and opened it up and it looked like the tape was like almost dissolved or deteriorated. I am guessing it's probably the ammonia in the home brew/orange seal?
    I reported the same problem some time back, I included pictures on my post.
    Luckily I was just testing the tape on my rims without spoke holes, so apart from have to clean the rim, I didn't had any bad surprise.

    EDIT: it was on post #363

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    alexdi, I tried kapton tape for Road tubeless and found it was too stretchy and wrinkled easily as a result. Try the green powder coat masking tape for something with medium stretch and decent, but not overkill adhesive. It comes in 1Ē width, perfect for most road rims. It has just enough stretch to form into the center channel with decent pull force. It doesnít split or tear easily like 3M 8898. Itís stretchier than Stanís/Tesa 4289.

  98. #498
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    Like this Combfilter? These were on the previous page. @Aglo was describing the same thing. Obviously, something isn't getting along with the Kapton tape.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tape Thread-1132524-tubeless-tape-thread-image001.jpg  

    Tubeless Tape Thread-1132525-tubeless-tape-thread-image002.jpg  

    Tubeless Tape Thread-1132526-tubeless-tape-thread-image005.jpg  


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    Edit: Didn't see that @Aglo had posted.

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    yup just like that guys ^^^^^^
    Mine did the same thing. I wonder if the people that are NOT experiencing this are using sealant that is ammonia free?

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    Isnít Orange Seal ammonia free?

  102. #502
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    Combfilter! Thanks for the update. Im so stoked you took the time to write your timeline on this. Stans tape is such a rip off, but I only use 1 or 2 rolls a year, its so tempting to buy it. I am now on Tyvek. That dude that had problems was creeping me out, but now I am stoked. I am about 3 months into Tyvek, double wrap on Derby Carbon rims (35mm outer). No issues for me. Will post after tire change in a week or 2. Thanks again.

  103. #503
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    Kapton tape adhesive fail is interesting. Mine has been holding up fine for a couple of years with Stan's sealant on both road and mtb. Could it be different adhesives?
    What, me worry?

  104. #504
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    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_2742.jpgThanks to everyone on this thread, its good info. I am not staying with TYVEK, as it melted onto my Carbon Derby rims after 3 months, and was a real pain in the neck to clean. It works great, is light weight, but STANS comes off clean. I just bought 60 yards of Stans to lower cost per wheel to about $1.60. As a professional house painter, I prep my wheels really well, and maybe thats why TYVEK residue would not come off. It is also the reason my Stans stcks really well to rim (not as well as Tyvek). As others have stated, I too change tires often, and sometimes Stans does not last more than 2 or 3 tires. It just depends on rim material, and tire manufacture's bead size/style. By the way, After seeing Tyvek mess, I took tire off other rim, which I had mounted with Tyvek just last night, and it was a messy residue after only 16 hours. Tyvek is a good solution to Stans cost, but Its not as good as Stans for my setup. Also, Tyvek may be good on my extra bike, where tires last 1-2 years, and I will never clean residue on that aluminum wheelset.

  105. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    I use these with Stans Flow MK3. Best performance beating gorilla tape, stans tape, etc IMHO.

    https://www.specialized.com/nz/en/2b...-each/p/134014
    Iím interested in trying these. Are they self adhesive? Re-usable? Every tape Iíve tried shifts when breaking the tyre bead, and I end up having to re-tape, regardless of scouring and cleaning the rim bed with IPA, leaving overnight with a tube etc. Actually the best fix with tape Iíve found is coating the bead with synth grease to prevent it adhering to the tape.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis View Post
    Iím interested in trying these. Are they self adhesive? Re-usable? Every tape Iíve tried shifts when breaking the tyre bead, and I end up having to re-tape, regardless of scouring and cleaning the rim bed with IPA, leaving overnight with a tube etc. Actually the best fix with tape Iíve found is coating the bead with synth grease to prevent it adhering to the tape.
    Are you using a tire lever to install/remove the tire? Tire levers can possible scrape the tubeless tape out of position at times.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    Are you using a tire lever to install/remove the tire? Tire levers can possible scrape the tubeless tape out of position at times.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Nope, but good thought. It happens when forcing the tyre into the centre to break the bead seal, with hands only. I generally get away without using levers at all, unless itís a particularly new tyre or tight bead.

  108. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoolie View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2742.jpg 
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ID:	1210918I am not staying with TYVEK, as it melted onto my Carbon Derby rims after 3 months, and was a real pain in the neck to clean...
    i've installed TYVEK tape on three sets of carbon wheels a few years ago and while I haven't run into any issues damaging the tape when replacing tires yet, I really wondered if it was going to be a mess when it comes time to have to redo the tape. So when the time comes, how did you get all of the tape residue off your carbon rims??
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  109. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by A.Christopher View Post
    i've installed TYVEK tape on three sets of carbon wheels a few years ago and while I haven't run into any issues damaging the tape when replacing tires yet, I really wondered if it was going to be a mess when it comes time to have to redo the tape. So when the times comes, how did you get all of the tape residue off your carbon rims??
    Use a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive as you are taking off the tape and it will peal off fairly clean. Anything that is left can also be heated up and peeled off with your finger nail.

    After tape is removed you can use Goo Gone to remove any left over adhesive, just make sure to clean off Goo Gone really good with something like Windex/alcohol before re-taping.

  110. #510
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    Hair dryer may be a good solution. This continues to be a great thread. I used adhesive remover, after trying laquer thinner on a 1 inch test section did not work, plus I was a bit worried about using laquer thinner on carbon rims. Stans is so easy to remove. Stans is so easy to apply. My issue with Stans tape, as Comfilter points out, its pretty expensive tape. I have not used Gorrilla tape, but after dealing with the Tyvek mess I would not hesitate to use Gorilla tape. But I just bought 60 yards of Stans tape. Done!
    Last edited by hoolie; 08-18-2018 at 08:45 PM.

  111. #511
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    I "thought" my newer bike had pre-taped rims (Sun Ringle Duroc 40's) but low and behold, I pull the tire off and sure enough, cloth rim strip. Wanting to setup tubeless for a trip this weekend and gotta swing near home depot tonight anyway. I'm more interested in trying the Tyvek rather than Gorilla, but I can at least pick them both up at HD.
    This Tyvek should work fine, correct? Rim bed is clean, bike is only a month old and has been ridden lightly so far. https://www.homedepot.com/p/TYVEK-Ho...1470/100422453
    Silly bike things happening.

  112. #512
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    Given the infusion of $ we all place into this chosen venue of mountain biking, I fail to understand how some get wrapped around the axle on spending around $20 (usually considerably less) on a roll of Stan's Tape that I can get two complete wheel sets taped (4 wheels). $5 per wheel taped that (for me) will last years and many tire swaps. Assuming I can get 3 years from a tape job (I can expect more than this), then your cost per wheel is less than $2 per year. YMMV.

    I will drop $20 without thinking about it on a brief evening with friends on a few good, hand crafted double IPA's, or gas money just to get to a good trail head to ride, or a whole lot more on tires and sealant for just one season of riding.

    I have to question what are people spending on their bikes? How does this expense compare to your overall costs?

    Are you people buying $500 mountain bikes and Wally World tires? Prolly NOT! Tape cost is chump change compared to the cost of playing this game. I can go through a set of high-end tires in one season and my tape jobs will last for years. Where's the real expense?
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  113. #513
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    I wanted to ride the next day, and I had leaky stans tape. Home Depot was open, and my lbs wasn't... So I have tyvek taped rims.

    It worked so well I stuck with it. It's not really about cost.

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    New question here.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Where's the real expense?
    Not actually an answer but still: if Tesa 4289 is just the same Stan's tape, and it has a various of sizes (literally hundreds), it costs MUCH less than Stan's - why to buy Stan's?
    OK

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    Cost may be an element, but some people also enjoy experimentation and get satisfaction from hacking things.
    What, me worry?

  116. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Given the infusion of $ we all place into this chosen venue of mountain biking, I fail to understand how some get wrapped around the axle on spending around $20 (usually considerably less) on a roll of Stan's Tape that I can get two complete wheel sets taped (4 wheels). $5 per wheel taped that (for me) will last years and many tire swaps. Assuming I can get 3 years from a tape job (I can expect more than this), then your cost per wheel is less than $2 per year. YMMV.

    I will drop $20 without thinking about it on a brief evening with friends on a few good, hand crafted double IPA's, or gas money just to get to a good trail head to ride, or a whole lot more on tires and sealant for just one season of riding.

    I have to question what are people spending on their bikes? How does this expense compare to your overall costs?

    Are you people buying $500 mountain bikes and Wally World tires? Prolly NOT! Tape cost is chump change compared to the cost of playing this game. I can go through a set of high-end tires in one season and my tape jobs will last for years. Where's the real expense?

    Agree with the exception that Stan's does not work well on some rims.

    It works perfectly on Stan's rims as you'd expect but I've had it not adhere to DT rims and carbon rims. For those I've always had excellent results with Gorilla tape.

  117. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post
    Not actually an answer but still: if Tesa 4289 is just the same Stan's tape, and it has a various of sizes (literally hundreds), it costs MUCH less than Stan's - why to buy Stan's?
    Does it come in the proper width? Don't think it does because people have been cutting it to width.

  118. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    Does it come in the proper width? Don't think it does because people have been cutting it to width.
    You can buy at least with 15mm, 25mm and 50mm width.

    EDIT: just googled ant you can also get it at least with 19mm, 30mm and 40mm width.

  119. #519
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    You can buy at least with 15mm, 25mm and 50mm width.

    EDIT: just googled ant you can also get it at least with 19mm, 30mm and 40mm width.
    Stan's comes in 12, 21, 25, 27, 30, 33, 36, and 39.

  120. #520
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    Uhmm, I bought 60m roll with 32 mm width. They (where I bought it) asked me what width do I want and I got it, without any extra cost..
    OK

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    Anyone have any idea what DT Swiss Tubeless tape is made of? Just got a roll of it. It looked "perfect" when I saw it pre-installed on a M1900 wheel, to the point I was imagining what kind of machine they used to install it. Will see if it's worth ~$22 on my other wheels. I tried to get one that was about 4mm wider than the ID of my rim.

  122. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    I wanted to ride the next day, and I had leaky stans tape. Home Depot was open, and my lbs wasn't... So I have tyvek taped rims.

    It worked so well I stuck with it. It's not really about cost.
    This is exactly why I tried Tyvek, and it works well.

  123. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    Anyone have any idea what DT Swiss Tubeless tape is made of? Just got a roll of it. It looked "perfect" when I saw it pre-installed on a M1900 wheel, to the point I was imagining what kind of machine they used to install it. Will see if it's worth ~$22 on my other wheels. I tried to get one that was about 4mm wider than the ID of my rim.
    I have the M1900 wheelset and while it came with DT Swiss tape, it wasn't pre-installed. My experience with DT Swiss tape is disappointing and I won't be using it again.

    When new on the roll, the tape is black. While installing the tape, as I pulled I noticed the tape developed "stretch marks" that were yellow. Here's what the tape looks like after a couple of weeks with Stan's fluid. Horrible.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-2.jpg

    Tubeless Tape Thread-3.jpg

  124. #524
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    Ordered some kapton/polyimide tape from China. Will confirm if they're the same. I also see the orange natural color underneath the branding if I hold it up to the light and look through. Wouldn't judge that as horrible. Just looks like the ink wore off.

  125. #525
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    The black ink flaking off was a mess to deal with during a trail-side flat. The tape didn't stick as well as Stans either.

  126. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    Ordered some kapton/polyamide tape from China. Will confirm if they're the same. I also see the orange natural color underneath the branding if I hold it up to the light and look through. Wouldn't judge that as horrible. Just looks like the ink wore off.
    Check out post #498 on this thread. Some sealants react negatively with Kapton tape.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    Check out post #498 on this thread. Some sealants react negatively with Kapton tape.
    To me, that looks like something getting under the tape. Thanks for pointing that out--going to make a gasket for the valve nut to sit on, to make it more resistant from water ingress from the outside of the rim (e.g. washing and water crossings).

  128. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninjichor View Post
    To me, that looks like something getting under the tape. Thanks for pointing that out--going to make a gasket for the valve nut to sit on, to make it more resistant from water ingress from the outside of the rim (e.g. washing and water crossings).
    My rims don't have spoke holes in the tire bed, so nothing could have got under the tape. It was some reaction with the sealant, I tested it with Stan's clone home brew, but others had problem with the original Stan's. In total I think that only three people reported the same problem, so not a big sample.

  129. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    My rims don't have spoke holes in the tire bed, so nothing could have got under the tape. It was some reaction with the sealant, I tested it with Stan's clone home brew, but others had problem with the original Stan's. In total I think that only three people reported the same problem, so not a big sample.
    Are you using tape just to "protect" the rim from sealant? I have a set of UST Easton Havens and I never thought about using tape on it. xD

    Using a few month old bottle of TruckerCo cream, but once I'm out I plan to switch to the Bontrager style home brew (half 50:50 water/RV antifreeze mix, half latex mold builder, and corn meal).

  130. #530
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    No, my rims are carbon so I am not worried about the sealant damaging it. I was testing the tape to see if it was any good to convert my father's wheels to tubeless.
    Bontrager's homebrew is more or less a Stan's clone without the extra ammonia, wich is probably what's damaging the tape.

  131. #531
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    1 roll of stans tape has done 3 wheels (still have enough for 1 more) about 5 thousand miles or so and has endured probably a few dozen tire changes (so far) without issue. $10, I'm a believer.
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  132. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    No, my rims are carbon so I am not worried about the sealant damaging it. I was testing the tape to see if it was any good to convert my father's wheels to tubeless.
    Bontrager's homebrew is more or less a Stan's clone without the extra ammonia, wich is probably what's damaging the tape.
    The ammonia in that formula is the small amount of ammonia in the latex mold builder. Stan's uses different aggregate--whatever their crystals are vs the corn meal (or ground pepper in E13 tire plasma). The antifreeze-water mix is there to carry the aggregate to the punctures, and the latex helps to dry it into a clot that seals punctures.

    Your speculation that ammonia affects the tape has some merit. I found this, when I went to verify:

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  133. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    1 roll of stans tape has done 3 wheels (still have enough for 1 more) about 5 thousand miles or so and has endured probably a few dozen tire changes (so far) without issue. $10, I'm a believer.
    9x the price for an equivilant product? between kids and buddies I've taped a dozen plus tires in my last 5000 miles. The ony weakness in my opinion is if and when you have to put a tube in, there's a chance of failure when you go back to tubeless, but I believe this to be a problem with most of these options (am I wrong?)....
    jvcc polypro strapping tape from amazon:
    Great stuff. You need to go around the rim twice because this stuff is about 1/2 thick as the stan strapping tape in thickness, but it works great on alum. rims and is cheap.

  134. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElwoodT View Post
    9x the price for an equivilant product?

    No doubt if I were using a bunch I'd think twice about it but @ ~$3 per year rim tape is one of the lowest cost and least time consuming maintenance items on my bike. Unfortunately I've had to install plenty of tubes in the last few years but no tape damage yet.
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  135. #535
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    It's less about the money savings for me regarding why I am using tyvek.. It has EVERYTHING to do with the tyvek tape lasting longer, being lighter, laying down better in the groove, and not bubbling than stans strapping tape. Don't get me wrong.. I can lay down stans strapping tape like a pro. The issue with stans with me is that I change tires a lot and I also check my sealant levels a lot. The stans strapping tape tends to start to peel up as you pop the bead off the tire after about 5 to 6 months for me. It's like the adhesive and heat of TX start to lose their grip. With me changing tires depending if I am riding TX,Ar, La, etc, and the fact I used different tires depending on the conditions means I am changing tires about every 3-4mo. Also as we knows sealant doesn't tend to last. So about every 3mo I'll top off the sealant and I don't like having to worry if the tape will peel back. I have one wheel with tyvek that's years old and the tape is still good. I've changed tires on that rim countless times. On the flip side, yes there is even 1x I've had to replace tyvek tape after about 1yr on another wheelset. It happens but not often. With stans tape (even from factory) it happens all the time. Thus my reason right there. The cost savings is a bonus. Obviously the crappy part is cutting the tape down to size. 1st world problems i guess.

  136. #536
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    Due to my exsessive lazyness i dont want to read all 6 pages of posts.

    Has a clear winner emerged in the tubeless tape battle?

  137. #537
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    Quote Originally Posted by plummet View Post
    Due to my exsessive lazyness i dont want to read all 6 pages of posts.

    Has a clear winner emerged in the tubeless tape battle?
    Just read the first post. It's very informative and should help you out.

  138. #538
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    There will prolly never be a clear winner...not collectively speaking.
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  139. #539
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    Different brands of tires have different effects on rim tape. The Maxxis and Schwalbe tires are roundish beads, and I find they come off of rims without disturbing the tape too much. In summer, I use Vittoria TnT tires, on 2 bikes, which have square beads, and they seem to really peel up the rim tape, but I like the Vittoria tires, so I live with it. I do love the Maxxis Shorty 2.5 in winter for the front !

  140. #540
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    Tubeless Tape Thread

    ...
    Last edited by Guy.Ford; 2 Days Ago at 04:18 PM.
    ...

  141. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoolie View Post
    Different brands of tires have different effects on rim tape. The Maxxis and Schwalbe tires are roundish beads, and I find they come off of rims without disturbing the tape too much. In summer, I use Vittoria TnT tires, on 2 bikes, which have square beads, and they seem to really peel up the rim tape, but I like the Vittoria tires, so I live with it. I do love the Maxxis Shorty 2.5 in winter for the front !
    Can confirm that Vittoria TNT beads push around the edge of the rim tape. It's what messed up the Tyvek tape I tried, and led me to try out DT. It's the front setup too (Goma); rear Tyvek setup with Michelin not needing any attention.

  142. #542
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    I don't want to reread this whole thread but powder coat masking tape seems like a good application for this. Someone on another forum used it and said it's strong (can't tear it by hand) and has no tape residue. It's high temperature too which makes it good for rim brake rim applications. https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Mas...QK6P24N36ZPE20

  143. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    ... powder coat masking tape seems like a good application for this. Someone on another forum used it and said it's strong (can't tear it by hand) and has no tape residue. It's high temperature too which makes it good for rim brake rim applications...
    The powder coat masking tapes have good tensile strength ~50 lbs/in, but adhesion can vary from 20 lbs/in to 44 lbs/in; "stretchier than Stans", no surprise there with elongation from 90% to 148%.
    3m 8898 is 160 lbs/in tensile and adhesion of 65 lbs/in, elongation 32%.
    Kapton that some report good results with, is 50 lbs/in and adhesion of 25 lbs/in, elongation >50%.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  144. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceugene View Post
    Try the green powder coat masking tape for something with medium stretch and decent, but not overkill adhesive. It comes in 1Ē width, perfect for most road rims. It has just enough stretch to form into the center channel with decent pull force. It doesnít split or tear easily like 3M 8898. Itís stretchier than Stanís/Tesa 4289.
    I'll make a note.

    I just did my 39-internal carbon rim with 24mm 8898. Super strong, very sticky, quite light, not much stretch. (Doesn't seem like it'd be prone to splitting or tearing, I was really pulling on it.) Much thicker than Kapton, a bit thicker than Tyvek. Fine for this wheel (most anything is, the existing Kapton looked great and came off without issue; swapped mostly to experiment), but there's no way it'd fill a deep channel like Stan's. Also a bit more translucent.
    Last edited by alexdi; 10-26-2018 at 07:21 PM.

  145. #545
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    wtb's new system looks very interesting: https://www.wtb.com/pages/product_technology

    stretchy flextape (sounds easy to install) goes over a solid strip that covers the spoke holes. Too bad id have to get their new rims to use it!
    Last edited by dwyooaj; 12-31-2018 at 08:34 PM.
    '18 banshee rune

  146. #546
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    Anyone find anything that takes off gorilla tape adhesive good yet? I been using it for years but the rim I just peeled it off of is insane. I bet half the rim bed is coated in it. I've never had more than a strip or so needing to be cleaned off.

    Also I normally use OS but used Stans since I was in a pinch. I'm wondering if that why the tape was falling apart inside. Tires only been on for 6 months maybe and fresh tape then.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  147. #547
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    summary: use tape itself as a blotter, mineral spirits, citrus remover.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6maxag20h4

    My tape table lists its adhesive as "rubber" (vs. synthetic rubber, acrylic or silicone, for others). I don't remember the source.

    Other recommendations found: acetone, WD40, coconut oil.

    I won't touch Gorilla Tape, as its adhesion force is too variable roll to roll, and may (or not) release in hot weather. Your guess as to what adhesion & release you'll get, ~= not reliable. Love Gorilla Glue.
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  148. #548
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    So I was able to use a piece of hard plastic tube to remove the thick residue. Kind of pushed it and rolled it at the same time at a angle and it cleared the belly in my EX471s pretty well. Brake cleaned on a rag took the rest off. Huge PITA though, I've never had the tape come off and leave the grey adhesive behind.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  149. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    So I was able to use a piece of hard plastic tube to remove the thick residue. Kind of pushed it and rolled it at the same time at a angle and it cleared the belly in my EX471s pretty well. Brake cleaned on a rag took the rest off. Huge PITA though, I've never had the tape come off and leave the grey adhesive behind.
    Imho, thatís what ghetto tubeless does if gorilla tape was used.


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  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Anyone find anything that takes off gorilla tape adhesive good yet? I been using it for years but the rim I just peeled it off of is insane. I bet half the rim bed is coated in it. I've never had more than a strip or so needing to be cleaned off.

    Also I normally use OS but used Stans since I was in a pinch. I'm wondering if that why the tape was falling apart inside. Tires only been on for 6 months maybe and fresh tape then.
    I went through the same effort a while ago. Just a lot of knuckle grease (elbow grease). Good Gone and a few layers of skin and rim was as good a new. haha Not a challenge I want to accept again!
    Last edited by Forest Rider; 01-03-2019 at 10:53 AM.

  151. #551
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    Is gorilla tape different in some states?

    I tried it once and couldn't understand why anyone would put it on a wheel. It made a terrible mess and it's crazy thick. The one I got was perforated and basically a sealant sponge. It soaked up a bunch, swelled and turned to goop.

  152. #552
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    ^^^ that's been my experience in the East Coast, Midwest, and other geographic locations; soaks up sealant, develops leaks, adhesive oozes out and attaches to the tire bead so the tape is pulled up when you change a tire, huge PITA to clean off the rim... And, depending on the rim and tire, it's so thick it may make it nearly impossible to seat the bead.
    What, me worry?

  153. #553
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    I'm pretty sure the tape did what it did due to using Stans in the wheel. I typically use OS and never had this happen before. Typically I can just peel off the old gorilla tape and just wipe the rim clean. This time the tape literally was just falling apart.


    On my EX471's Gorilla tape works perfect but my Spank rims there's no way I could get a tire on with Gorilla tape. Sadly the LBS didn't have any Stans tape in the right width so I gorilla taped my wheel again and used OS this time.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  154. #554
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    Tesa 4289 same as Stans but 1/10 the cost. I have used this for over 5 years many sets of wheels . Once installed PROPERLY, I have never an issue with it coming off by itself or leaving any residue when I peel it off.

  155. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    Tesa 4289 same as Stans but 1/10 the cost.
    Provide a link where you buy it and the cost for how much tape.
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  156. #556
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    I bought 4289 - 32x66 m for about 11$ at some my local company.
    OK

  157. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by teK-- View Post
    Tesa 4289 same as Stans
    Nope, actually as WTB

    BTW, got Tesa 64284, some say even better than 4289.
    Last edited by ka81ua; 02-21-2019 at 06:11 AM.
    OK

  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka81ua View Post

    BTW, got Tesa 64284, even better than 4289.
    Curious, why is it better. I see it's thinner, has less adhesion, and lighter duty than #4289. Not trolling, just want to find out how it works.

  159. #559
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    I don't know why but it applies with less amount of bubbles and much easier on "nonstandart-shaped" rims.



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    Last edited by ka81ua; 01-14-2019 at 12:27 PM.
    OK

  160. #560
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    Can anyone provide a link to buy the 30mm Tesa tape?

    Thanks

  161. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimarin View Post
    Can anyone provide a link to buy the 30mm Tesa tape?

    Thanks
    I'm interested too. I've never been able to source any. Only found 19mm, 25mm and 50mm.

  162. #562
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    For those in Europe I found an ebay seller with 21mm x 66m, 23mm x 66m, 25mm x 66m, 27mm x 66m, 30mm x 66m, 33mm x 66m, 36mm x 66m, 39mm x 66m.

  163. #563
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    I actually don't understand a problem. In my area, they don't sell it by sizes, you can ask whatever size you whant and you'll get it. A lot of small companies sell all that type of goods (tapes,...).
    OK

  164. #564
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    I also did found some online sellers where you can choose anything between 1mm and, if I'm not mistaken, 1115mm. But none that would ship to my country, or would sell a single roll.

  165. #565
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    So I was using the Tessa tape, I posted about it in this thread a year or so back.

    I got it from a guy on eBay from the UK.
    Looks like he is no longer there

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesa-4289-No...item3a9d40c423

    Where is everyone getting their Tessa tape from now?

  166. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
    So I was using the Tessa tape, I posted about it in this thread a year or so back.

    I got it from a guy on eBay from the UK.
    Looks like he is no longer there

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesa-4289-No...item3a9d40c423

    Where is everyone getting their Tessa tape from now?
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  167. #567
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  168. #568
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    I have been using gorilla tape for awhile now its been great. But once you change tires the tape seems to shift over easily. So you have to re tape every time. Not much residue is left so easy clean up. I'm going to try some tyvek tape on top to see if it stops the shifting of the gorilla tape. Has anyone tried this yet?

  169. #569
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    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    I have been using gorilla tape for awhile now its been great. But once you change tires the tape seems to shift over easily. So you have to re tape every time.
    Re-taping after every tire change does seem like that Gorilla tape has been great.
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  170. #570
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    ^^^ har!
    What, me worry?

  171. #571
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    On my latest setup I switched it around a bit and cut gorilla tape just wide enough to cover the spoke holes and on top of that I ran a edge to edge layer of stans, got 34mm tape I believe and had to trim maybe 2mm off one side but I like tape edge to edge. Tires come off easy without damaging anything and I got an extra layer where I think itís needed, on top of the spoke holes.

  172. #572
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    I've never seen a situation where Stan's or other appropriate tape needed reinforcement over the spoke holes, especially on a mountain bike, since you can use it up to 120 psi on road bikes. Some build up the center of the rim to help a tire catch air when installing it. Otherwise, I don't believe it serves any useful purpose. Personally, having a fair amount of experience with Gorilla tape, it doesn't get anywhere near my tires or wheels for reasons that have been widely described in this thread.
    What, me worry?

  173. #573
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    Anyone have luck with the Kapton tape from china on ebay? I like how kapton tape comes in all different sizes. Going to give it a try.

  174. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    Anyone have luck with the Kapton tape from china on ebay? I like how kapton tape comes in all different sizes. Going to give it a try.
    Kapton tape doesn't always work with certain sealants. See post #363 on page 4.

  175. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    Kapton tape doesn't always work with certain sealants. See post #363
    cool thanks. I think i have used kapton tape before it comes stock with American classic wheels. I used it with stans sealant and never had any problems.

  176. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    I've never seen a situation where Stan's or other appropriate tape needed reinforcement over the spoke holes, especially on a mountain bike, since you can use it up to 120 psi on road bikes. Some build up the center of the rim to help a tire catch air when installing it. Otherwise, I don't believe it serves any useful purpose. Personally, having a fair amount of experience with Gorilla tape, it doesn't get anywhere near my tires or wheels for reasons that have been widely described in this thread.
    Had a spoke break on a long high speed DH. It punched right through the Stans tape and promptly let all the air out my tire at about 30 mph on a twisty road. Stans gets double wrapped if I use it.
    I like to fart when I'm in front of you on a climb:skep:

  177. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtrider76 View Post
    Had a spoke break on a long high speed DH. It punched right through the Stans tape and promptly let all the air out my tire at about 30 mph on a twisty road. Stans gets double wrapped if I use it.
    Had that happened to me, but just JRA on pavement. Broke at the elbow, on a Stan's wheel. Had a Cushcore in it too, ugh... didn't have a tube with a stem long enough to poke through the cushcore and be inflatable, and didn't want to carry a slimy piece of foam, so I walked. Told myself to carry a rimtape repair kit. xD

    I've been eyeing the Spec 2bliss rim strip for a while now.

  178. #578
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    Kapton tape is what I've used for the past 4 years, road and mtb, with no issues using Stan's. I use two layers for road. Kapton refers to the plastic film material. Adhesives can differ, but generally are silicone based.
    What, me worry?

  179. #579
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    The right size tyvek tape to date for multi tubless applications

    FIRST AND FOREMOST...Thank You for taking the time out to do the homework -

    NOTICED: In reference to your NUMBER 1 Pick Tyvek a choice, since I believe based on your research through trial and error and spending alot of $$$ YOU are right -

    CHECK OUT: Lineco Tyvek Tape - 1" x 50 Yards MFR # 804-0150

    This should cover MOST Mountain, Road, & Gravel applications at 25mm width.

    In my experience DT SWISS uses Tyvek with branding printed on throughout the tape?

  180. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scot 2 View Post
    FIRST AND FOREMOST...Thank You for taking the time out to do the homework -

    NOTICED: In reference to your NUMBER 1 Pick Tyvek a choice, since I believe based on your research through trial and error and spending alot of $$$ YOU are right -

    CHECK OUT: Lineco Tyvek Tape - 1" x 50 Yards MFR # 804-0150

    This should cover MOST Mountain, Road, & Gravel applications at 25mm width.

    In my experience DT SWISS uses Tyvek with branding printed on throughout the tape?
    Are we sure the lineco tyvek tape is the exact same thing as the tyvek tape from home depot?
    '18 banshee rune

  181. #581
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    Based on preliminary background of product it appears that is the same, I ordered a roll of the 1 inch (25 mm) to see for myself. The DT Swiss tape I like working with, but its very pricey. This would be a win win since I ordered a 150 ft roll for $18.

  182. #582
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scot 2 View Post
    Based on preliminary background of product it appears that is the same, I ordered a roll of the 1 inch (25 mm) to see for myself. The DT Swiss tape I like working with, but its very pricey. This would be a win win since I ordered a 150 ft roll for $18.
    Any updates? From the details, it sounds like it's tape made from Tyevk fibers rather than tape intended to adhere to Tyvek.

  183. #583
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    FYI, for anyone interested, Walmart has 5 yard rolls of 1.5" / 38mm Gorilla Crystal Clear Tape on clearance -- I was able to pick some up for $0.50 each and I see many stores around here that still show some left for $1:
    https://brickseek.com/walmart-invent...r?sku=48810480

    Debating on using that as-is vs. cutting down Tyvek for a new i40 wheelset.

  184. #584
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    Not sure if here is where to ask, but since I just taped the wheel again trying to solve it.... I continually get leaking from the hole that the valve stem comes through, bubbling Stans fluid.

    Is there a tip or trick I can use to keep this from happening? Is it my tape job?

  185. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimF777 View Post
    Not sure if here is where to ask, but since I just taped the wheel again trying to solve it.... I continually get leaking from the hole that the valve stem comes through, bubbling Stans fluid.

    Is there a tip or trick I can use to keep this from happening? Is it my tape job?
    Do you think leaking between tape and stem or fluid getting in behind the tape then out the rim's stem hole?

    Which tape?
    Old/new stock? (old adhesive)
    Tape pressed down well enough?

    Which stem?
    Tight enough?
    Did you make the hole in the tape by forcing something through or heat something and melt a nice smooth-edged tear-free hole?

    I've wondered about using a dab of silicone around the hole before inserting the stem, but I've never gone there.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  186. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimF777 View Post
    Not sure if here is where to ask, but since I just taped the wheel again trying to solve it.... I continually get leaking from the hole that the valve stem comes through, bubbling Stans fluid.

    Is there a tip or trick I can use to keep this from happening? Is it my tape job?
    After taping, how to you make the hole for the tubeless valve?

  187. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Do you think leaking between tape and stem or fluid getting in behind the tape then out the rim's stem hole?

    Which tape? Gorilla Tape (front wheel seems to be holding with same tape)
    Old/new stock? (old adhesive) Just applied
    Tape pressed down well enough? Didn't I?

    Which stem? Universal Tubeless
    Tight enough? And then some
    Did you make the hole in the tape by forcing something through or heat something and melt a nice smooth-edged tear-free hole? I created a small slit with a razor blade and forced the stem through it. Never thought or read about heating it up

    I've wondered about using a dab of silicone around the hole before inserting the stem, but I've never gone there.I put a bit of gasket silicone on the outer side, under the thumb nut. I'll see tomorrow if that helped.
    Quote Originally Posted by kwapik View Post
    After taping, how to you make the hole for the tubeless valve? See above, the razor.
    I took the tape off that I had applied the night before thinking maybe I didn't put it on well enough. I sprayed the wheel down with water and a bit of dish soap, blew it out with air, then wiped down the inner surface with rubbing alcohol. I applied the tape keeping it pretty taunt, pushing it down the center first then the sides as I went. No one has ever instructed me on this so I"m assuming it's correct.

    Any tips are GREATLY appreciated.

  188. #588
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    Sounds like you applied it right. I stopped cutting an "x" for the valve stem hole and now use a heated metal rod and burn/melt the hole. A lot cleaner looking and appears to work better for me.

    The silicone is not a bad idea if all else fails.

  189. #589
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    No one mention setting up the tape to the rim with the inner tube in at full psi for couple hour.
    That's the secret for any tape.

  190. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadoretteboat View Post
    No one mention setting up the tape to the rim with the inner tube in at full psi for couple hour.
    That's the secret for any tape.
    Hey, that makes sense!

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  191. #591
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    I've used the Stan's tape with mixed results, so I've switched to Gorilla Tape. I use the hook end of a tire lever to push the tape down into position. This method has worked for me over the past 5-6 years.

  192. #592
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    So you have some tips.

    Silicone under the outside nut is trying to contain it after it's leaked inside. I'd have some between the tape and the step base.

    Gorilla Tape: too hit and miss, or works for a while then suddenly fails. They won't publish actual tape specs like real manufacturers do. Independent tests give widely varying results for adhesion and strength. Wonder if they just sub it. Or used to sub it. I've never figured out if it's their production quality control, shipping/storage conditions, or old stock. This is for the usual Gorilla Tape. Clear seems much more consistent.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  193. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by frdfandc View Post
    I've used the Stan's tape with mixed results, so I've switched to Gorilla Tape. I use the hook end of a tire lever to push the tape down into position. This method has worked for me over the past 5-6 years.
    Gorilla tape has always worked well for me. While not perfect its been better than many other alternatives listed in this thread, that I've tried.

    I did recently purchase that 1" Tyvek tape and might give that a shot.

  194. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    So you have some tips.

    Silicone under the outside nut is trying to contain it after it's leaked inside. I'd have some between the tape and the step base.

    ...
    Yup, the choice to put under the nut was after the fact of it leaking again. I figured the next time I try (which may be right after this posting) I'll put it between the tape and base.

  195. #595
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    Hi. My question is a bit related with tapes.
    Im owner of marin sam quentin 3 and wanted to install tubeless. After partially remowing tire i saw i have something different than regular band on my rim.
    Is this rim taped and i need just valve and sealant or should i tape it anyway?
    Did someone install already tubeless in san quentin?
    Cheers guys!
    Tubeless Tape Thread-7973c249-32d1-4984-9881-891ac7aec9ea.jpg
    Tubeless Tape Thread-095c05cd-66fa-4fd0-91a5-954150dc6d52.jpg

  196. #596
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    you look ready to go.
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  197. #597
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    You'll find out real quick if it's tubeless ready once you put the sealant in You could also call/email Marin to be sure.

  198. #598
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    Thanks for replies.
    I emailed them. But polish distributor isnt shure and tells to as some mechanic. Official marin tells to tape and everything but tape to seal need to be glued to metal surface for me. And i have no metal surface there

  199. #599
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    Look for how the tape is made. If it's made from a long piece that is glued to itself, with an overlap joint, and is thick, it's not good. The tire will have trouble sealing at the overlap point unless you taper it. Also check for the valve hole in the rim strip. If it is thick, it might need to be sanded/filed to have greater surface contact that is even with the tubeless valve.

    Safer to properly tape it, but if the rim strip was thick, the tire might feel a little loose as it was stretched for the original rim strip. If the tape is 1-piece with no joint, and is thin, able to conform well to valve, I would try it out of curiosity. It may be as good as Specialized 2-bliss rim strip, which doesn't use adhesive, but works okay.

    BTW, great bike choice!

  200. #600
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    Thanks ninjichor.
    On spec they wrote that it is tubeless ĄcompatibileĒ. Only god knows what does it mean. For me tubeles ĄreadyĒ rim should be just put valve, milk and you can go but it is not so obvious.
    I will try just to pour milk and we will see. Will write somethink after this experiment.
    Thanks!

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