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  1. #101
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    I'll never again use tape that isn't residue free. Gorilla Tape was a huge pain to remove, and the clear repair tape was much worse.

  2. #102
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    How is this thread still going, taping a rim is really not hard. Stans works, gorilla tape works. Gorilla tape is easily torn lengthwise and residue isn't bad.

  3. #103
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    I had great luck with the 3M 8898 tape. I had one split out of the 10 rims I've taped so far, but it was from stretching it too much. I felt the tape was easy enough to work with, and do not have any leak issues that I can tell. I do have the bubbling in my spool of tape, but that's not been any indicator of poor adhesion in my experience. Maybe when this roll wears out after another fifty or so rims, Ill try the kapton tape next time.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Good Lord, is a roll of Stans so freaking expensive to make it worth all of that^?!
    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    Stans is a bit of a ripoff at the price charged for how much you get. I have a lot of bikes, a lot of wheels and I ride a lot so yes it would be worth it to find something that was more economical. Maybe during that process I might even find something better and could share that with the rest of you. If I don't then well I guess I will buck up like the rest and buy the Stans. In the meantime the process of discovery and curiosity is kind of fun. Don't get me started on sealant formulas :-)
    Stans is priced high for what you get and we all know stans is not a super tape materials company that designed the tape from the 1st molecule on up.

    So, the quest is on to see is something is nearly as good at 1/4 the cost. Will the savings be enough to get you a new bike??? Ahhh, No. However, there's an odd satisfaction in finding the generic version of a product the bike industry charges a lot for.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by dietz31684 View Post
    How is this thread still going, taping a rim is really not hard. Stans works, gorilla tape works. Gorilla tape is easily torn lengthwise and residue isn't bad.
    because we are still in search for:

    • tape that cost $1 a roll
    • is available at office Depot or home depot
    • weighs nearly nothing
    • goes on with minimal effort
    • sticks like metalized mylar tape until you want it off, then if comes off like painters tape
    • never splits or stretches once on, but is plyible (sp?) on install
    • is avail in 1mm width increments


    When we have all that, I will make official request to the moderators to close this thread and make it a sticky.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I had great luck with the 3M 8898 tape. I had one split out of the 10 rims I've taped so far, but it was from stretching it too much. I felt the tape was easy enough to work with, and do not have any leak issues that I can tell. I do have the bubbling in my spool of tape, but that's not been any indicator of poor adhesion in my experience. Maybe when this roll wears out after another fifty or so rims, Ill try the kapton tape next time.
    I used the 8898 tape on my tubeless road rims. While it did work, it did move a bit and ruffle up in a few spots near the bead. I will probably replace it with something else when I have that wheel off again
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    Stans is priced high for what you get and we all know stans is not a super tape materials company that designed the tape from the 1st molecule on up.
    Agreed, I just find it funny that folks will happily pay several hundred each for rims, 5 or 6 hundred for hubs, another $150 for spokes and then balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.
    Last edited by J.B. Weld; 09-08-2015 at 03:59 PM.

  8. #108
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    I am on my third taping in only a year.

    My current set of wheels, purchased used, came with Stans. There were a few nicks thru the tape, but it wasn't an issue. However, it started leaking around a valve stem. I tried more goo, tightening the stem, etc. with no luck, so I retaped both wheels.

    Then I boogered up an aluminum nipple, so had to replace tape on that wheel again.

    I see what you are saying. It may not be worth the time you spend researching it, trimming it, etc. But, you really need to keep spare tape around, so you are at $20 now. I had fun doing it, and will now always have plenty of tape of whatever width I want on-hand. And no biggie if I mess up a taping job and have to start over.

  9. #109
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    I was having a lot of trouble setting my Sun Ringle Mulefut 50's up tubeless.
    The Stans tape was installed by dealer and I couldn't get that to work. I then tried strapping tape and that didn't work. Then I went to the tried and true Gorilla and that didn't work.
    I almost gave up and was so frustrated that within 7 attempts I couldn't get it to work.

    Went to Home Depot with the intentions of buying Tyvek tape but four this for $7.49. Its weather seal tape from Frost King Frost King E/O 2 in. x 100 ft. Interior/Exterior Clear Plastic Weather Seal Tape-T96H - The Home Depot

    Its stretchy and with two wraps I got them to seal up.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_3104.jpg

  10. #110
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    Cool. How did you cut it to the desired width?

  11. #111
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    Dennis, this was a 50mm wide rim so it was pretty close, but I trimmed with one of the cheap little retractable plastic knifes

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisF View Post
    Cool. How did you cut it to the desired width?
    Trimming to width is certainly an issue. I'd be interested to hear how people have done it with "home" tools.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  13. #113
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    Well, I cut the Stans-like strapping tape with a table saw by rolling it between the blade and fence and it did a perfect job (yes, I still have all my fingers ) .

    But it was fairly hard and brittle. Not sure how it would do on a softer material like Vinyl.

  14. #114
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    Why not trim after you put it on?

  15. #115
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    balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.
    I have had all of the following problems with Stan's yellow 25mm tape:

    1. The last roll of tape I bought had bubbling in the spool.
    2. Sealant under the tape edges and ends (from a roll that did not exhibit bubbling).
    3. Tires ripping the edges of the tape.


    I've never tried any other tape.

  16. #116
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    I bought a used pair of Sun Ringle Inferno 25s which had been set up tubeless with black Gorilla tape. There was a lot of Stanboogers all along the edge of the tape, which was slightly peeling back. One wheel/tire set up OK after I used a bit of soapy water on the bead. The other one was an absolute *****, and when I did get it to pressurize, I could see soapy bubbles at all of the nipples.

    I depressurized, ripped the crappy Gorilla tape, picked as much of the Stanboogers out as I could, then put a double wrap of 1" blue 3m tape. The first wrap I started trimming a bit off the side of the tape so it wasn't wall to wall, but then got tired of doing that and just left it full width. Sealed up great then.

  17. #117
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    Hi For those people that have used Gorilla tape on 29"er Rim, I just wanted to ask do you wrap the rim twice? Or just once will do.
    Bike~less

  18. #118
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    I use gorilla and have been rolling on one wrap for the last year or so.

  19. #119
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    I ordered Nox rim tape in the width that fit my rims. It was easy, quick to install, works tits and cost about the same as a decent 6 pack. Although I may have paid $4 more than a comparable tape that I would have to source and cut, I think it was a good value.

  20. #120
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    I've been using this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

    So far it has held up well, 2 wraps is all it takes. It hasn't shifted any, was easy to install and was surprisingly thin/light but the film seems very strong. I recommend it. And $5 for 60yds shipped to your door in 2 days you can't beat.

  21. #121
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    Hey guys, I don't have a fatbike but am doing my pre-purchase research so take this idea as hypothetical.

    Anyhow, I use this liquid tape to seal my RC quadcopter electronics and all I know is it seems like a tough and flexible rubber when dry.

    If you don't have rim cutouts, maybe you could just use this to seal the spokes.

    If you do have rims with cutouts, this comes in spraycan form. So you can have a rim strip, masking tape off the edges of the rim, spray this stuff on, remove masking tape when wet, let dry, and you should have a totally sealed inner rim surface.

    Gardner Bender Spray Liquid Tape in Black (6 oz./Can, 6 Cans/Master)-LTS-400 - The Home Depot

    Http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...-400/100119178

    Hopefully someone can proof this before I buy a fatbike.

  22. #122
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    Past couple wheels I taped were with housewrap tape. I put it on full width, really tight, then trimmed the excess with a razor. Super easy.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttakata73 View Post
    Hey guys, I don't have a fatbike but am doing my pre-purchase research so take this idea as hypothetical.



    Anyhow, I use this liquid tape to seal my RC quadcopter electronics and all I know is it seems like a tough and flexible rubber when dry.



    If you don't have rim cutouts, maybe you could just use this to seal the spokes.



    If you do have rims with cutouts, this comes in spraycan form. So you can have a rim strip, masking tape off the edges of the rim, spray this stuff on, remove masking tape when wet, let dry, and you should have a totally sealed inner rim surface.



    Gardner Bender Spray Liquid Tape in Black (6 oz./Can, 6 Cans/Master)-LTS-400 - The Home Depot



    Http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-B...-400/100119178



    Hopefully someone can proof this before I buy a fatbike.

    That stuff wont work, its not designed to handle pressures. It will tear when u air up the tires not to mention that chemicals in sealant till like either eat at it or cause it to separate from the rim. I used to use the stuff on rc too and worked great against water but its tensile strength is very low.

  24. #124
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    I used:
    Tyvek Sheathing Tape 1.88" x 164'
    Tyvek Sheathing Tape 1.88" x 164' - Tuck Tape - Amazon.com

    to tape up some 45mm internal carbon rims. It was tough to apply smoothly and had some wrinkles and bubbles in it. I did two wraps and had no issues with it sealing up. The width went right to the edge of the "hookless hooks" on both sides. No problems after a few rides.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Agreed, I just find it funny that folks will happily pay several hundred each for rims, 5 or 6 hundred for hubs, another $150 for spokes and then balk at spending $10 for rim tape that works great and will likely last for the life of the wheels.
    It will never last the life of the wheels and it is not perfect tape either. However, after trying a lot of different tapes I do find that Stans is the best of the bunch of the ones that I have used. Its only drawback is price and I'm willing to experiment a bit if I can make it a bit more economical and have some fun in the process. Maybe we find something that works better.

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acme54321 View Post
    I've been using this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...rch_detailpage

    So far it has held up well, 2 wraps is all it takes. It hasn't shifted any, was easy to install and was surprisingly thin/light but the film seems very strong. I recommend it. And $5 for 60yds shipped to your door in 2 days you can't beat.
    I would be curious to see how much residue is left when peeling it off. Thats been my main complaint about gorilla tape. Sometimes it almost seems to delaminate and leave the adhesive on the rim...messy. Let us know what its like.

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    Trimming to width is certainly an issue. I'd be interested to hear how people have done it with "home" tools.
    Olfa utility knife with a new blade. measured a line around and then cut to width. You can't cut the whole roll all the way through in one go but I would cut it deep enough to do a rim or two and then cut it again.

  28. #128
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    I ordered the 3m 8896 24mm Blue tape to replace the factory *Easton? tape on my Easton Heist 24 wheelset. The factory tape lifted on the edges when I removed my WTB TrailBoss tires, and the factory overlap was also lifting. I used Stans sealant and these were the 1st tires installed on the wheelset.

    I live and ride in an incredibly rocky area so I go through a rear tire every 3 months (500ish miles) and a front every 6 months.

    I am new to tubeless (1st tire change ever) so I don't really know what the tape should look like, but having the edges pulling up doesn't seem like a good idea.

    I bought the 3m tape because I plan on having to install new tape at each tire change and I'm a value oriented type guy. I hope I don't have to change it every time, but only time will tell..... I'll update this as the miles and tire changes go by.

  29. #129
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    I've been using gorilla tape with ghetto tubeless on miniature 29er non-tubeless rims (aka 26") and use 2x wraps to help make a snug fit at the bead. works very well.

    several years and tires worth of experience in rocky CO mtns.

  30. #130
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    3M 865 is a clear strapping tape alternative to 8896/8898, a little thicker (6.4 mil vs. 4.6), 50% stronger (240 lbs/in vs. 160), and a little bit more adhesion (74 oz/in vs. 70)

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    3M 865 is a clear strapping tape alternative to 8896/8898, a little thicker (6.4 mil vs. 4.6), 50% stronger (240 lbs/in vs. 160), and a little bit more adhesion (74 oz/in vs. 70)
    my complaint about the 8898 was that it would not stay stuck in the channel. it would lift and bubble as if the adhesion could not overcome the stiffness in the tape. stans tape has more stretch and molds into the channel and stays there. if the 865 does that then I would try some.

  32. #132
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    Probably not, pretty much the same thing with reinforcement filaments.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    my complaint about the 8898 was that it would not stay stuck in the channel. it would lift and bubble as if the adhesion could not overcome the stiffness in the tape. stans tape has more stretch and molds into the channel and stays there. if the 865 does that then I would try some.
    Did you firmly press down with your thumb in the center channel, or did you lay it down like most of the videos show?

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Bone View Post
    Did you firmly press down with your thumb in the center channel, or did you lay it down like most of the videos show?
    I pull it taut and then trying to press it with my thumb into the channel first. If the channel is broad and shallow then its easier. If the channel is deeper and narrow then the tape sticks to the shoulders of the channel and then you have to press the tape into the channel depth. Problem I see is the tape has little stretch and is a bit stiffer than stans so the adhesion isn't enough to hold it down in the channel. it starts to lift. I clean all the past residue off really well and use 99% alcohol on the rim beforehand so I know its really clean.

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snipe View Post
    I pull it taut and then trying to press it with my thumb into the channel first. If the channel is broad and shallow then its easier. If the channel is deeper and narrow then the tape sticks to the shoulders of the channel and then you have to press the tape into the channel depth. Problem I see is the tape has little stretch and is a bit stiffer than stans so the adhesion isn't enough to hold it down in the channel. it starts to lift. I clean all the past residue off really well and use 99% alcohol on the rim beforehand so I know its really clean.
    I used the blue 8896 on my Easton Heist24 wheels that have a pronounced center channel. I first did it like the videos show, where you pull the tape super tight and sort of "lay it in the rim" but after I was done, the tape was not stuck down to the center channel at all and was like a "trampoline".

    So I removed the tape (it sure sticks to the aluminum well) and then I did it again, this time just pulling the tape snug, but making sure that I pressed it down firmly into the center channel as I went and it worked great.

  36. #136
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    After trying other tapes, I just bit the bullet and bought a 60 yard roll of Stans. The time wasted messing with other tapes was killing me. My daughter took it to use when moving back to college


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  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    M

    electrical tape:
    You can use it in a pinch, but it will eventually peel up.

    not doubting your experience, but plenty of other people who use it claim otherwise

    maybe they chose name brand quality tape rather than the cheapest available?

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    not doubting your experience, but plenty of other people who use it claim otherwise

    maybe they chose name brand quality tape rather than the cheapest available?
    Electrical tape is crap for tubeless.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
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  39. #139
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    Seems like it wouldn't have enough sticktion, but I some people say they do it no problem.

  40. #140
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    Someone try this.

    Heavy duty RED STUCCO tape.

    3M Scotch 1.88 in. x 60 yds. Heavy-Duty Red Poly Contractor Stucco Tape-3260-A - The Home Depot

    looks light, tough, and designed to be easily removable. Needs to be cut.


    I bought some but haven't needed to setup up any rims lately.

  41. #141
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    duct tape? You try it and let us know.

    $1.50 per wheel for real rim tape seems decent enough to me ...

    Price Point Mountain Rim Tape Red | Price Point

    going to give it a shot

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    duct tape? You try it and let us know.

    $1.50 per wheel for real rim tape seems decent enough to me ...

    Price Point Mountain Rim Tape Red | Price Point

    going to give it a shot
    Looks like a rim strip type of tape, for use with a tube. Not sure it will work well for tubeless applications.

    But like you said, You try it and let us know.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Looks like a rim strip type of tape, for use with a tube. Not sure it will work well for tubeless applications.

    But like you said, You try it and let us know.
    Yea, definitely not tubeless tape in any way.

  44. #144
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    Fortunately I noticed before buying any, butwas too busy to come back and say "DOH!!!"

    I bought a roll of 18mm Orange tubeless tape instead.

  45. #145
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    Well, after reading this whole thread a few weeks ago, I decided to just go with the FattyStrippers because it sounded pretty painless, and I didn't want to mess around with the whole thing more than once.

    The kit arrived last week, and went on my Mulefuts super easy, and sealed up right away. I bought the kit that included the 3M tape that's used as the "rim tape" to cover the spoke nipples and cutouts.

    It's a bit more expensive than DIY tape, but there's no messing around wondering whether it will seal up. Mine sealed up with a floor pump

    I'm a FattyStripper convert. And no.. I don't work for them or know them - just really pleased at the results. They're super lightweight, too.


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  46. #146
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    My rear Arch EX started leaking around the valve and I found that the Orange Seal had worked all the way through the overlap area and was likely the cause. That's ok as I've got 4000 miles on this wheel and changed tires a bunch of times.

    I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.
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  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    My rear Arch EX started leaking around the valve and I found that the Orange Seal had worked all the way through the overlap area and was likely the cause. That's ok as I've got 4000 miles on this wheel and changed tires a bunch of times.

    I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.
    Best would be 21mm Stans tape. I do like Orange Seal tape but it only comes in 18mm and 24mm widths which are too narrow and too wide respectively for Arch EX rims with a 21 inner width.
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  48. #148
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    I just sealed up my Velocity Blunts with Gorilla Clear. Used a utility knife set on a piece of wood to get the tape cut to width, which was much more of a pain than I thought it would be as the blade would actually wander off the initial line. A bit more patience and care on my end next time would make it neater. Oh well, next time. Anyway, put 2 wraps on the rim and the tape is very easy to get down in the channel. The tape is very sticky, very stretchy and very clear, so any imperfections or bits of air and debris really show up. Put an On One Smorgasbord on and got it to seat and seal with my floor pump and no sealant. No air loss overnight, put a full load of Stans sealant in in the morning. So far, so good. The real test will be when I swap tires: Does the tape get torn up at the edges? Will the sealant and/or pressure have started to destroy the adhesive or structure of the tape? I'll report back.
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  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post

    I think i am going to go with Stan's again. Am I supposed to use the 25mm wide tape? I don't think it was very clear.
    Stan's recommends 25mm.

  50. #150
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    Just to pile on I would stay away from the 3M 8898 tape. It does not stick well and the adhesive it leaves behind is a PITA to deal with. Any long term reports on the Tesa 4289 tape? Between my son and I we have a several bikes and swap out tires frequently.

    Thanks

  51. #151
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    I have been using Tesa 4289 for almost 4 years and there is nothing else that works as good for the money. I also agree about the 3M tape leaving the residue, and its not quite as thick as the tesa tape.

  52. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by psychler View Post
    I have been using Tesa 4289 for almost 4 years and there is nothing else that works as good for the money. I also agree about the 3M tape leaving the residue, and its not quite as thick as the tesa tape.
    Excellent.........THANKS

  53. #153
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    I just use Stan's and in 10's of thousands of miles and many tire swaps and changes, I've yet to have to re-tape a wheel, even after 6 or 7 years. For $12 or so bucks, that's a bargain.

    Some of you seem to go to unnecessary lengths and time consuming experiments to save a few $$. Misplaced enthusiasm.
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  54. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Some of you seem to go to unnecessary lengths and time consuming experiments to save a few $$. Misplaced enthusiasm.
    Some of us have several bikes (plus several bikes for the GF) so saving a few $$ per bike goes a long way towards saving $$$$$$$$.

  55. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTscoob View Post
    Some of us have several bikes (plus several bikes for the GF) so saving a few $$ per bike goes a long way towards saving $$$$$$$$.
    I have four bikes and the wife has two. Disclaimer...she's running tubes.
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    I found one argument against the "just use Stans tape" crowd.

    I was setting up some Canfield AM wheels and the Stans tape did not stick to them at all. The tape is about a year old, but I think it was just the rims surface. They have a bead blast finish which the Stans just would not stick to. Fortunately I had seen this thread earlier, and I had a roll of the Gorilla clear, which I can bought to protect parts of my new frame, so used that. It worked great!

    I only used one layer though. Is that enough or do I risk it blowing out on a big hit?
    I did not want it too thick as I was mounting super gravity tires which have insanely tight beads. I had actually tried to do them ghetto but put a hole in the tube as motorcycle levers were needed. I needed metal levers to mount them to my old specialized rims (stans copy I think), but with just a layer or Gorilla tape I would wrestle them on by hand with the Canfield rims. This has be a little worried as I have burped or blown off every lighter tubeless tire I have used before. I hope the super gravity bead will keep this from happening.

  57. #157
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    Just got a new set of ENVEs and tried to use Stans tape after prepping the rims. The tape would not stick. So I used gorilla tape. The bad thing about gorilla tape is that it doesn't play well with Stans sealant. It is a PITA to remove. The gorilla tape does leave a sticky residue post removal which the Stans tape will adhere to. I'm using Orange seal now so hopefully I won't be using profanity in the future when I have to remove the gorilla tape.


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  58. #158
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    I have one layer of gorilla tape on my wheels. I'm 230 lbs taking hits and still have yet to see the tape get close to blowing out.
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  59. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junersun View Post
    I have one layer of gorilla tape on my wheels. I'm 230 lbs taking hits and still have yet to see the tape get close to blowing out.
    I've never seen the tubeless rim tape "blow out" before.
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  60. #160
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    Just answering NWRyders question.
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  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    I've never seen the tubeless rim tape "blow out" before.
    Other riders have reported that the Gorilla Clear at one layer thick blows out at relatively high tire pressures. I haven't heard exactly what pressures or under what riding conditions, but, that's what some have reported.
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  62. #162
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    ^^^ I have a set DT Swiss rims set up as tubeless road wheels with Stan's tape that I'm running about 55 psi on and I've never experienced any issues. I have taken a look at the tape after a tire swap and didn't even see any tape deformity.
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  63. #163
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    Stan's tape seems pretty tough against pressure...I mean the way the material seems to be.

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  64. #164
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    My Stan's tape tape finally came in.

    I actually had my LBS tape my rim cuz I was impatient but it still leaked past the valve.

    So when I got my tape in I ripped the LBS tape (Stan's) off and redid it myself.

    Stan's says to start the tape across from the valve hole. That's also where the weld is which was a lil rough so I started it a few inches to the left of it. I also increased the overlap to about 5-6 inches from the 2 that it was before.

    ****er held air perfectly as soon as I put some pressure in the tire \o/.

    I do like the Stan's tape for its lightness. It also seems to leave minimal residue which is another bonus.

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  65. #165
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    I have some WTB asym i29 rims. I put down some black gorilla tape, and it instantly left that tape residue on. I took it all off and plan on using gorilla clear or stans. I really want this to be a permanent addition to the wheel because I don't plan on retaping unless I need to replace spoke nipples.

    My biggest questions are which tape will not need replaced (I use orange seal) and do I really need the full width of the rim taped? The asyms have the spoke holes offset, and it's a really wide rim. I figured I only need to put the tape over the spoke holes and the pinned seam to make sure it's good.
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  66. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    I have some WTB asym i29 rims. I put down some black gorilla tape, and it instantly left that tape residue on. I took it all off and plan on using gorilla clear or stans. I really want this to be a permanent addition to the wheel because I don't plan on retaping unless I need to replace spoke nipples.

    My biggest questions are which tape will not need replaced (I use orange seal) and do I really need the full width of the rim taped? The asyms have the spoke holes offset, and it's a really wide rim. I figured I only need to put the tape over the spoke holes and the pinned seam to make sure it's good.
    Derby only recommends an 18mm width. His rims have a channel though. I believe going wall to wall on rims with hookless beads is unnecessary?

  67. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loch View Post
    Someone try this.

    Heavy duty RED STUCCO tape.

    3M Scotch 1.88 in. x 60 yds. Heavy-Duty Red Poly Contractor Stucco Tape-3260-A - The Home Depot

    looks light, tough, and designed to be easily removable. Needs to be cut.


    I bought some but haven't needed to setup up any rims lately.
    I taped up a wheel with this the other day.

    I often need tape that is wider then standard 25mm stan's tape, and the 28mm stan's is expensive and harder to find. So I'm always looking for a good tape that will work.

    I used one layer of the stucco tape. I cut it to the correct width buy carefully wrapping the rim with the full width tape, then cutting the tape on the outside of the rim with a razor blade. I then wrapped the cut tape back around the spool and then applied it to the rim.

    It went on great and stuck very well (aluminum WTB KOM i23).

    One layer was not enough, air pressure caused the tape to burst at a spoke hole. Several spoke holes were double wrapped at the overlap, and they looked great.

    2 layers should work fine with this tape.

    I have added another layer and so far it is holding up great.

  68. #168
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    I think the trick with Stan's tape is to wrap it twice and take your time. The only issue I have seen is buggering it up when using a tire lever or when the rim wasn't prep'd well and it slid over time exposing the nipple holes. Like someone above, its not very much $$ for a one-time job. Gorilla tape is heavier and leaves a nasty residue which arguably....who cares b/c why would you ever take it off?

    Edit. I just had an issue with Stan's tape on my CX bike. Scrapped it and went with the 1" Gorilla...honestly, its much better tape for this use as it doesn't slide around and is WAY cheaper.
    Last edited by TiGeo; 01-10-2016 at 05:28 AM.
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  69. #169
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    I never used Stan's, on my ghetto tubeless set ups I only used Tesa tape, not the one mentioned by OP, but some kind of Gorilla's tape clone. It was not perfect but worked ok.
    A friend had a wheelset with Stan's, but when he broke a spoke we had to remove the tape, and for our admiration the tape had started to peel of just after 3 months.
    So no, Stan's do not justifie the extra $$$, its the other way around.
    By my experience and with the reports complaining about Stan's products in this forum, it seems Stan's is getting way to greed and is cutting in the product's quality.

  70. #170
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    The little bit of gorilla tape glue that was at the edge caught my tire as I was breaking the bead and it pulled up the tape some. I hadn't even stuck in a tire level. Only reason I'm looking for something a bit more permanent.

    Has anybody tried prepping the spoke holes so they're not as sharp at the edges? I know there are metal de-burring tools that people use to smooth out the rough edges on drilled fatbike rims. Possibly use a larger drill bit to very lightly angle the edge of the spoke hole?
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  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aglo View Post
    I never used Stan's, on my ghetto tubeless set ups I only used Tesa tape,
    What Tesa tape are you using?
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  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What Tesa tape are you using?
    I'm not using it anymore, I got fed up with rim tapes and ordered some carbon rims without spoke holes in the rim bed, so no more tape for me .
    But the tape I used was black in the side without glue and white in the glue side, and together with the glue was a nylon net that give extra support in the spoke holes.
    Sorry but I don't recall the number, I can check it later if you really want. But as I mentioned, it was not perfect. But I paid 4.95 for 25m.

  73. #173
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    Ok, I searched the online store were bought it, and the reference is 56348-00001 and it 50m instead of 25m.
    I used to tape up the walls, and wall to wall. The only problem I encountered is the same as the Stan's, the tape start to peel after some time, but without the same price tag as Stan's.

  74. #174
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    fwiw, im using 3M 764 vinyl tape, and have been for months on several bikes in a mix of hot dry and cold wet weather with zero issues. it is thin and light so does not help seal gaps if you have a tyre/rim interface issue.
    3M 764 General Purpose Vinyl Marking Tape 50mm x 33m From Viking Tapes
    it is cheap, stretchy, one layer works well for tubeless and it removes without residue. i have used 2 layers on a broken rim i didnt want to set up tubeless for several months that is single wall with a tube and no puncture due to abrasion through tape. i have set wheels up by inflating a tube to bed the tape and also without this step, no probs either way.
    NB: i only use conti revo sealant now a days which is non ammonia based, dunno if this would make a difference and i have only used it on carbon rims.
    it is also easily cut so trimming it to fit a different rim is easy too. that's my epxerience anyway!

  75. #175
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    I will use for the first time Gorilla Clear tape on Hope Tech Enduro Rims 27.5, how many layers recommend? two layers is enough?

  76. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    My Experience with the following tapes and a few questions.
    ......
    updated 8/19/14:
    Tyvek Home Wrap Tape/Sheathing Tape/aka seam tape:
    This has become my 2nd favorite tape so far. I still say if you want bomb proof go with the gorilla clear and you have aluminum rims. However, if you have carbon or are scared to use gcrt on your rims for fear of it becoming permanent then this should be your next tape. I am pretty sure this is what velocity velotape is. It's basically strapping tape that is more stretchy so it's easier to pull tight and get to lay all the way down. Great stuff and peels back up fairly descent if you need to redo the tire for any reason. I did 2 layers around a 29" rim and the weight came to 9g.
    Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape?
    How well does it stick to carbon rims?
    Does Stan's sealant cause it to lift?
    How hard is it to clean up the adhesive from carbon if you remove it?
    Has anyone had any blow outs at the spoke holes with this?

    So many questions

  77. #177
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    Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

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  78. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

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    Because it is permeable to gasses and leaves gummy crap all over your rims that is a huge pain to remove.
    ENVE probably slapped more than a few foreheads over that spec.
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  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

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    For similar reasons you wouldn't paint your nice car with a brush....
    ..unless you're a hack.

  80. #180
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    I too was turned off by the residue but then I realized...you only should put rim tape on once.....when would you ever change it if it installed correctly the first time? Permeable? I haven't really noticed abnormal air loss.

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  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    I too was turned off by the residue but then I realized...you only should put rim tape on once.....when would you ever change it if it installed correctly the first time? Permeable? I haven't really noticed abnormal air loss.

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  82. #182
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    ^^^I personally have never seen that, not saying it doesn't happen, but that hasn't been my experience. That has to be from installation technique correct? I have set up lots of rims tubeless, using Stan's tape and Gorilla. Stan's is nice and light but never holds after multiple tire removal/installs in my experience. It is also v. sensitive to the rim being clean. The 1" Gorilla just goes one smoothly, sticks to surfaces well, and hasn't moved around on the rims I have dealt with.
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  83. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Why not just use Gorilla...it's bulletproof.

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    What the others said plus heavy and thick.

    Soooo.... to repeat myself:
    Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape?
    How well does it stick to carbon rims?
    Does Stan's sealant cause it to lift?
    How hard is it to clean up the adhesive from carbon if you remove it?
    Has anyone had any blow outs at the spoke holes with this?

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    ^^^I personally have never seen that, not saying it doesn't happen, but that hasn't been my experience. That has to be from installation technique correct? I have set up lots of rims tubeless, using Stan's tape and Gorilla. Stan's is nice and light but never holds after multiple tire removal/installs in my experience. It is also v. sensitive to the rim being clean. The 1" Gorilla just goes one smoothly, sticks to surfaces well, and hasn't moved around on the rims I have dealt with.
    I've never taped my own rims with Gorilla tape, but I reckon that both Mikesee and my friend who owns my LBS have their taping technique down. The tightness of the rim/bead interface and tire mounting/removal technique might play a role too, but in my experience, Gorilla isn't bulletproof, and is a real pain to clean up after. Stan's has been easier all around IME.

  85. #185
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    Are you talking about the black gorilla tape, or the gorilla clear? I've used black gorilla tape in the past, and I will admit, it is a pain to get all the goo off, and if you only do a single wrap, there's a possibility it will leak. On a single layer of gorilla over a cheap rubber rim strip, I had that setup for about 1 1/2 years without any trouble. Tire wore out so I had to redo the setup. It was actually easy to remove most of the old gorilla tape because I used a rim strip.

    I've just done a double wrap with the gorilla clear, and it's looking good so far. Unfortunately, haven't had any ride time on it, but it looks good.
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  86. #186
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    I was referring to the black, but I have tried the clear repair tape after reading this thread. It also moved on me and the cleanup was even worse. Part of my issue is that I'm taping a Stan's FR rim, which has a really tight BSD.

  87. #187
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    I will have to check out the clear Gorilla...but I don't think my single wrap with the black will ever be an issue.
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  88. #188
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    All of this discussion about the frequency of having to remove the tape and clean up the mess baffles me a little. I have four sets of wheels that I have wrapped with Stan's tape. Of these four sets, two of these wheel sets have experienced literally dozens and dozens of tire changes and swaps with the original Stan's tape from the beginning with no issues...ever. Why is so many here having problems and having to remove and reinstall tape so frequently? All of my wheels still have my original Stan's tape (one wrap with a 6" overlap at the stem hole) and zero problems. The only time that I have had to perform re-wrap was a broken spoke that perforated the tape.
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  89. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    All of this discussion about the frequency of having to remove the tape and clean up the mess baffles me a little. I have four sets of wheels that I have wrapped with Stan's tape. Of these four sets, two of these wheel sets have experienced literally dozens and dozens of tire changes and swaps with the original Stan's tape from the beginning with no issues...ever. Why is so many here having problems and having to remove and reinstall tape so frequently? All of my wheels still have my original Stan's tape (one wrap with a 6" overlap at the stem hole) and zero problems. The only time that I have had to perform re-wrap was a broken spoke that perforated the tape.
    That was my question to those that were concerned with the residue from black Gorilla tape. I have never had to re-wrap it. I have had to re-wrap several wheels with Stan's tape but that was likely due to a poor job taping them or rims with a tight bead-on-tape-fit so that when you peel off the tire the sealant and/or lever pulled it up.
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  90. #190
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    I think 90% of this comes down to the lack of knowledge on how to tape properly specially from the people that say their tape doesn't stick, shifts or sealant penetration. All tape will stick well if you do this properly. Three VERY important steps to this.

    1) Spray some BRAKE CLEANER (from automotive store or if you use a bike product Finish Line Speed degreaser is the better of them) into a clean rag and clean inside of rims really well. Brake cleaner and the finish line spray do not leave a residue and this is extremely important. Now use rubbing or denatured alchohol on a NEW rag to finish cleaning the rim. Make sure to get every spec of dirt/sealant that you can see. The more time you spend cleaning the better off you will be. Once cleaned don't touch any part of the inside of the rim. This is all pretty commonsense, now for the piece de resistance!

    2)WARM THE RIM UP! In the 17 years ive been a wrench i can tell you this is the most important step with ANY adhesive based liner, tubeless or tubed. You can use a heat gun, blow dryer or blowtorch (not carbon) to warm the rim up. Your not making the rim hot only warming it enough to not be cold. This allows the adhesive from the tape to soften, adhere much better and spread more evenly leaving no channels for the sealant to get under. (not responsible for you de tempering your rim or damaging your rim)

    3) when you cut the tape don't cut it straight across "---" it needs to be cut at a diagonal "/". It has much higher sheering strength this way. On a side note if you have a road bike and the tape securing your bar tape keeps coming a little undone cut it at a diagonal and your problem will be solved.

    Ive used a TON of different tapes in my days and VERY rarely have any problems with any of them shifting, or not adhering or sealant migrating under the tape or whatever else everyone is having problems with. Ive literally done hundreds and hundreds of conversions and maybe 1% of them have had a problem.

    Hope this helps ya'll and i promise it will make your lives easier.

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    Some good advice here.

    I have only been riding on my wheels tubeless for a couple weeks but it looks like all the gorilla tape supporters are on to something: super cheap and easily available, easy to cut and work with. I wasted my money trying TYVEK tape but it was super hard to cut and work with and kept ripping.

    In frustration I reached for a roll of gorilla tape I had lying around. I ended up going with 1 wrap gorilla tape cut 18 mm wide to just fit in the dip in the middle of the rim because the rim already seamed tight enough. Stan's long 'road' valves for my relatively deep LB 30mm inner rims, Stan's sealant. Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35" front and Nobby Nic 2.35" rear (Evo snakeskin Pacestar).

    Worked well so far. Took the bead on the front a while to seal completely but it's fine now. Also the rear valve leaked at the rim until I tighten it down really tight.

    Running 23.5 psi front and 27 psi rear, no burping and only the very odd light rim strike. Riding weight around 230 lbs. No more pinch flats!!

  92. #192
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    Anyone tried the WTB tape? Is it the same as Stans or the 8898? I've used the 8898 and had trouble getting it to conform to deep rim beds. Looking for something more flexible.

  93. #193
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    I haven't used 8898, but the 8896 seems to be slightly pliable, and even stretches at spoke holes over time. Ive found that kapton / polyimide tape is less flexible, at least at the bigger widths.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    Anyone tried the WTB tape? Is it the same as Stans or the 8898? I've used the 8898 and had trouble getting it to conform to deep rim beds. Looking for something more flexible.
    I have used WTB tape on all my tubeless conversions on my bike. Happy and no problems with it, so far, even when doing tire changes or momentarily using tubes.

    I like WTB tape because they come in a lot of widths and stick well enough... I have three wheelsets for my Trance: One has Spank Race28 Evo rims (XC/Workout Duties), the next one are WTB KOM i25 rims (XC racing duties), the 3rd one is Dabomb Advance rims (Enduro/DH duties).

    I do make sure the rim is clean and wiped with alcohol, then after taping properly, I let it sit inflated with a tube for a day before finally making it tubeless.
    Last edited by jobo_ph; 03-21-2016 at 08:47 PM.

  95. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xorrox View Post
    What the others said plus heavy and thick.

    Soooo.... to repeat myself:
    Has anyone had long term experience with the Tyvek Seam tape?
    How well does it stick to carbon rims?
    Does Stan's sealant cause it to lift?
    How hard is it to clean up the adhesive from carbon if you remove it?
    Has anyone had any blow outs at the spoke holes with this?
    Sorry Just now coming back to this thread.

    My Tyvek on my Enve carbon rims is still solid. I had what later turned out to be a bad valve that caused me to want to re-tape the rear rim. The tyvek did not leave residue, but it did like break and rip in certain areas when removing it. I had to get my gf to use her fingernails and get the left over broken pieces off. Took her about 10min. I never had a blow out issue with it, and really it's a good tape. Just sucks you have to cut it down to size.

    Lately i've been just using the
    Maxi 248 Polyester/Silicone Single Coated Splicing Tape, 3.3 mil Thick, 72 yds Length, 1" Width, Green

    It's good/cheap doesn't leave residue and seems to stick pretty good.

    As far as people having issues with tape process or whatever, trust me I am taping things right. You can go on and on about "just go gorilla 1" black tape and be done, and if you do it right you will never have to take it off". 1st. I change tires depending on where I am racing. So I go from large volume low knob to less volume and high knob for mud shedding. Literally I switch tires all the time. I don't care how good you are at putting on tape, when you switch tires as much as most XC or Enduro riders you are going to have some tape peel up on you. Gorilla black tape is also prone to this. Once you have to redo gorilla black tape, if you want a good bond guess what you have to do? Make sure you have a nice clean rim surface to adhere it to. Guess what? it's a ***** to do that when you have left over gorilla residue on there. Beyond that it's about 100g heavier than most tapes I use. Weight Weenie? Yes.

    I need to update the original post with the other tapes. I'd still love to find out what tape that velocity uses. It's awesome. It's like stretchy so it sits down in the bead channel really well. It also sticks well.

  96. #196
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    I went with Kapton tape on my Spank rims since I knew there was no way in hell Stan's tape was going to conform & stick to the funky rim profile on those things. Kapton tape is thinner and has just enough stretch in it to follow the wavy rim bed on the Spanks. Mounted a set of UST tires on them with a bit of sealant and it aired up easily and has held air very well. It was about the easiest tubeless setup I've ever done.

  97. #197
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    Help!

    I could use a little help and given this is tubeless tape thread I'm hoping I've come to the right place... I apologize in advance if I 'm in the wrong forum

    Why I'm here...Just finishing up the last details of my new bike build and was waiting for my Stan's tubeless kit to come in the mail.
    In the interim a friend of mine who was building up my wheels suggested we put some Gorilla tape on the rims and throw some tubes and tires on and test the bike out. Anyway, my (stans) kit has arrived and as I got ready to setup for tubeless, I pulled off the gorilla tape and discovered an absolute nightmare of adhesive and gunk really stuck to my brand new just built rims. Have tried Isopropyl alcohol, Silicon lube, WD-40. Sadly nothing is working, still a mess. I've seen lots of back and forth on the web with different solutions be recommended and then not recommended, all over the place.
    So I'm hoping, given the collective knowledge in this group, that someone has experienced what I'm talking about and has a viable solution that has worked and doesn't require me to sit for days trying to scrap off all the crap glue currently on my rims.
    Final thought, ...if I had known this would be the result of Gorilla Tape I would have never agreed to temporarily putting it on just for the sake of testing the bike build.

    Hoping you can help, thanks in advance
    J

  98. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    I could use a little help and given this is tubeless tape thread I'm hoping I've come to the right place... I apologize in advance if I 'm in the wrong forum

    Why I'm here...Just finishing up the last details of my new bike build and was waiting for my Stan's tubeless kit to come in the mail.
    In the interim a friend of mine who was building up my wheels suggested we put some Gorilla tape on the rims and throw some tubes and tires on and test the bike out. Anyway, my (stans) kit has arrived and as I got ready to setup for tubeless, I pulled off the gorilla tape and discovered an absolute nightmare of adhesive and gunk really stuck to my brand new just built rims. Have tried Isopropyl alcohol, Silicon lube, WD-40. Sadly nothing is working, still a mess. I've seen lots of back and forth on the web with different solutions be recommended and then not recommended, all over the place.
    So I'm hoping, given the collective knowledge in this group, that someone has experienced what I'm talking about and has a viable solution that has worked and doesn't require me to sit for days trying to scrap off all the crap glue currently on my rims.
    Final thought, ...if I had known this would be the result of Gorilla Tape I would have never agreed to temporarily putting it on just for the sake of testing the bike build.

    Hoping you can help, thanks in advance
    J
    this is my post here regarding stuff I used (I now have Mavic Crossmax Enduro wheels that have spokes out of the rims, so no need for tape).

    Tubeless Tape Thread- Mtbr.com

    Tesa 4289 comes in 19 and 25mm width - actually - it's the same tape Stan's use - but you get 60+ meters of it in a roll, not just couple of meters Stan's offer.
    I've been using it with no problems whatsoever. never had those gunks you experienced.

    good luck

  99. #199
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    Thanks for your response ashas,

    I think the summary on all the tapes is great. My question is how to get rid Gorilla tape residue. Did you point me to it in the link and I missed it?

  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    Thanks for your response ashas,

    I think the summary on all the tapes is great. My question is how to get rid Gorilla tape residue. Did you point me to it in the link and I missed it?
    oh, ok.
    don't know how to get rid of it. just wanted to point to you towards the tape that does not produce gunk.

    have you tried with the dishwasher sponge? they have that harder sponge on one side. maybe that will help.

    good luck

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