Tubeless Tape Thread - Page 2- Mtbr.com
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 201 to 400 of 709
  1. #201
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    475
    Have you tried acetone?

  2. #202
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    Gorilla tape seems to work pretty well until you want to remove it. I can't help with the adhesive removal. As said above, acetone might work. Maybe you should have left it on.

    I have used Stan's for many years and been very happy. Easy to remove.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  3. #203
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    136
    Thanks guys.
    I haven't tried acetone yet. I'm going to give Goo Gone a try this evening.

    As I said in my original post, I had no intention of using Gorilla tape for tubeless; stan's is what I've used for the last 4 years and have never had any issues. The Gorilla tape was suggested by my friend who built my wheels, just so we could put tubes and tires in to simply test out the bike build before my Stan's kit arrived.

    Thanks.

    Again anyone with first hand experience with a similar situation, your advice would be most welcome... looking at how to get this mess cleaned up so I can use the Stan's kit.

    Cheers

  4. #204
    mtbr member
    Reputation: J.B. Weld's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    13,445
    x2 for acetone (or fingernail polish remover).

  5. #205
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    Others have mentioned it, but I use Kapton tape on mtb and road setups up to 100 psi. Sticks great, easily conforms to the rim profile, and leaves no adhesive residue when removed. I've even poke a hole in it to access a nipple and replace a spoke then patched the hole with a short piece of tape.

  6. #206
    Fossil
    Reputation: mtmiller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    437
    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    Thanks guys.
    I haven't tried acetone yet. I'm going to give Goo Gone a try this evening.

    As I said in my original post, I had no intention of using Gorilla tape for tubeless; stan's is what I've used for the last 4 years and have never had any issues. The Gorilla tape was suggested by my friend who built my wheels, just so we could put tubes and tires in to simply test out the bike build before my Stan's kit arrived.

    Thanks.

    Again anyone with first hand experience with a similar situation, your advice would be most welcome... looking at how to get this mess cleaned up so I can use the Stan's kit.

    Cheers
    Acetone will work.

    That said, there's sort of a hierarchy of solvents I use if damaging a finish is a concern. It's mostly based on what I have laying around. I usually start with Windex, then move to WD40, then alcohol, then mineral spirits / paint thinner, then acetone. Acetone pretty much never fails.
    DB Dirt Club
    DBs on Dirt since 2010

  7. #207
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by mtmiller View Post
    Acetone will work.

    That said, there's sort of a hierarchy of solvents I use if damaging a finish is a concern. It's mostly based on what I have laying around. I usually start with Windex, then move to WD40, then alcohol, then mineral spirits / paint thinner, then acetone. Acetone pretty much never fails.
    Thanks all for your help, it was much appreciated. I want to give a little update just in case somebody else comes along and finds they've ended up in same situation (and don't have clue as to what to do)....

    I went at one of the rims tonight with some Goo Gone and a scotch pad?. At first I was a little discouraged, however when I rubbed it on liberally and gave it a little time to work, I started to make some headway. I gave up on the scotch pad and tried some other utensils to see what would work best. What seemed to work was a couple of rags, one dry and one damp with Goo Gone, a good size tire lever and one of those little hard thin squares of plastic people use to scrape stoneware (cooking) since you can't clean it with soap.
    Sometimes I wrapped the edge of the scraper or tire lever in one of the rags to get at those tight spots and some times I used them directly on the rim.
    I also worked on areas for a while and then moved on and came back around to that same area again. This gave the Goo a little more time to work in. Anyway I kept going around and around adding Goo and scraping, rubbing and cleaning. I'm happy to say the rim looks pretty good. Hopefully I can setup for tubeless.
    Hope that helps.

    I have a follow-up question for readers. I'm going to go at the other rim tomorrow night. I haven't attempted to remove the Gorilla tape yet so I'm wondering ...does it make sense to try heating the tape with a hair dryer while I'm taking it off. Would that make it easier to remove and hopefully reduce the amount of residue that gets left behind?

    All views welcomed.
    Thanks
    J

  8. #208
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    I can't speak for Gorilla tape adhesive residue removal, but heat is frequently used to facilitate various film removals, I would think it could help. It didn't sound fun on the previous attempt.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  9. #209
    MCMXCV
    Reputation: D Bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,277
    Went tubeless for about 8 months and 3 tire changes, and went back to tubes.

    The first tire change (WTB TrailBoss TCS) stuck to the factory Easton tape on my Easton Heist wheelset and pulled it up upon dismount, so I retaped with blue 3M, but at least there was no sticky residue to clean from the factory tape.

    Then the second tires (Specialized Ground Control Grid) stuck to the blue tape and pulled it up on dismount requiring a retape after 30 minutes removing the sticky 3M residue.

    I mounted WTB Vigilante TCS and after their life was over, you guessed it, they stuck to the tape requiring another residue removal.

    That was the final straw. The pros do not outweigh the cons for me, as I don't like the flat tire feeling that running tires well below their optimal PSI offers, so I actually run the same PSI tubed or tubeless (28/33).

    I also use Stans in my tubes so small punctures are not a problem for me............... I actually had more issues on the trail running tubeless than I ever had tubed.

    Just my experience, and .02

  10. #210
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    ^^^ No doubt that everyone might experience different issues with whatever they choose to do. This is D Bone's experience and that's too bad it didn't work as planned for him. I have never experienced any tape issues that D Bone did on any of my wheel-sets. I have one set of wheels with the original Stan's tape that is more than 6 years old, has experienced dozens and dozens of tire swaps and well over 10,000 miles. The tape remains as it did when new. Perhaps this is just luck, but it seems to be the case across all of my wheels.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  11. #211
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    I can't speak for Gorilla tape adhesive residue removal, but heat is frequently used to facilitate various film removals, I would think it could help. It didn't sound fun on the previous attempt.
    Thanks C2L, I'll give it a try.

  12. #212
    change is good
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    2,919
    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    Thanks C2L, I'll give it a try.
    I didn't check the past posts so I don't know if your rims are carbon, but heat can damage carbon.

    After messing with Gorilla tape, Tyvex, and strapping tape and adhesive removal I looked at the time I spent. It's much less expensive to buy the big roll of Stans and reapply if the tape starts to pull up when I switch tires which it usually doesn't.

  13. #213
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by DrDon View Post
    I didn't check the past posts so I don't know if your rims are carbon, but heat can damage carbon.

    After messing with Gorilla tape, Tyvex, and strapping tape and adhesive removal I looked at the time I spent. It's much less expensive to buy the big roll of Stans and reapply if the tape starts to pull up when I switch tires which it usually doesn't.
    Not Carbon.
    And yes exactly, if you see my previous post this was just supposed to be a temp exercise to test the bike set up while I was waiting for my stans kit to arrive. Lesson learned, never again.
    I too have used stans in the past with my 26er (4+ years) with the same strip... never an issue

    Thanks

  14. #214
    change is good
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    2,919
    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    Not Carbon.
    And yes exactly, if you see my previous post this was just supposed to be a temp exercise to test the bike set up while I was waiting for my stans kit to arrive. Lesson learned, never again.
    I too have used stans in the past with my 26er (4+ years) with the same strip... never an issue

    Thanks
    You're smarter than me. It took me three times removing that crap from my carbon rims before I learned. So much profanity........

  15. #215
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    Quote Originally Posted by DrDon View Post
    I didn't check the past posts so I don't know if your rims are carbon, but heat can damage carbon.

    Generally speaking, carbon fiber composites can tolerate very high temperature ranges coupled with low coefficient of thermal expansion. Commonly found in many high temp applications in aerospace. The predominate factor is the resins used and their specific requirements or application.

    However, in most cases that I can think of, the use of low-grade heat to facilitate removal any applied tapes on carbon wheels would be far below any inherent design limitations.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  16. #216
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    6
    Deleted

  17. #217
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by snipes287 View Post
    I think 90% of this comes down to the lack of knowledge on how to tape properly specially from the people that say their tape doesn't stick, shifts or sealant penetration. All tape will stick well if you do this properly. Three VERY important steps to this.

    1) Spray some BRAKE CLEANER (from automotive store or if you use a bike product Finish Line Speed degreaser is the better of them) into a clean rag and clean inside of rims really well. Brake cleaner and the finish line spray do not leave a residue and this is extremely important. Now use rubbing or denatured alchohol on a NEW rag to finish cleaning the rim. Make sure to get every spec of dirt/sealant that you can see. The more time you spend cleaning the better off you will be. Once cleaned don't touch any part of the inside of the rim. This is all pretty commonsense, now for the piece de resistance!

    2)WARM THE RIM UP! In the 17 years ive been a wrench i can tell you this is the most important step with ANY adhesive based liner, tubeless or tubed. You can use a heat gun, blow dryer or blowtorch (not carbon) to warm the rim up. Your not making the rim hot only warming it enough to not be cold. This allows the adhesive from the tape to soften, adhere much better and spread more evenly leaving no channels for the sealant to get under. (not responsible for you de tempering your rim or damaging your rim)

    3) when you cut the tape don't cut it straight across "---" it needs to be cut at a diagonal "/". It has much higher sheering strength this way. On a side note if you have a road bike and the tape securing your bar tape keeps coming a little undone cut it at a diagonal and your problem will be solved.

    Ive used a TON of different tapes in my days and VERY rarely have any problems with any of them shifting, or not adhering or sealant migrating under the tape or whatever else everyone is having problems with. Ive literally done hundreds and hundreds of conversions and maybe 1% of them have had a problem.

    Hope this helps ya'll and i promise it will make your lives easier.
    Thanks

  18. #218
    change is good
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    2,919
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Generally speaking, carbon fiber composites can tolerate very high temperature ranges coupled with low coefficient of thermal expansion. Commonly found in many high temp applications in aerospace. The predominate factor is the resins used and their specific requirements or application.

    However, in most cases that I can think of, the use of low-grade heat to facilitate removal any applied tapes on carbon wheels would be far below any inherent design limitations.
    It seems you're more knowledgeable regarding this than I am. Although it's not rocket science use of a heat gun requires a certain amount of skill.

  19. #219
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gmats's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    3,213
    Quote Originally Posted by crankarms View Post
    Thanks guys.
    I haven't tried acetone yet. I'm going to give Goo Gone a try this evening.

    As I said in my original post, I had no intention of using Gorilla tape for tubeless; stan's is what I've used for the last 4 years and have never had any issues. The Gorilla tape was suggested by my friend who built my wheels, just so we could put tubes and tires in to simply test out the bike build before my Stan's kit arrived.

    Thanks.

    Again anyone with first hand experience with a similar situation, your advice would be most welcome... looking at how to get this mess cleaned up so I can use the Stan's kit.

    Cheers
    I've used WD40. It's a great sticky/gooey remover. Kerosene works great too. I've personally used both. I follow up with acetone to clean the surface prior to putting down my new tape (I've been using Kapton tape for some time now). Much lighter and works great!

  20. #220
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Generally speaking, carbon fiber composites can tolerate very high temperature ranges coupled with low coefficient of thermal expansion. Commonly found in many high temp applications in aerospace. The predominate factor is the resins used and their specific requirements or application.

    However, in most cases that I can think of, the use of low-grade heat to facilitate removal any applied tapes on carbon wheels would be far below any inherent design limitations.
    Quote Originally Posted by DrDon View Post
    It seems you're more knowledgeable regarding this than I am. Although it's not rocket science use of a heat gun requires a certain amount of skill.
    I agree... you could be correct with using a heat gun, but I think the OP spoke of using a hair dryer. I don't think that would present any problems.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  21. #221
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    136
    A quick update...

    I went at the second rim tonight and as stated earlier I used a hair dryer to heat up the Gorilla tape as I was taking it off.

    I took it off in sections. I preheated a section I was going to remove and then begin peeling it off, heating the underside as I pulled back on the tape (as opposed to just pulling straight up).
    Huge, huge difference compared to the rim I did without heat last night. When I was done this one had a fraction of the gunk in comparison to the other one. Used some Goo Gone, and I was done in about 20 mins. Thanks again to all who offered advise.

    Hope this post finds the next poor soul who ends up having a similar tape experience.
    J

  22. #222
    change is good
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    2,919
    Cool. I learned something.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  23. #223
    Ride 'Til Your Knees Hurt
    Reputation: cycljunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,060
    Have a set of Canfield Brothers 29er wheels for a new bike build. Used 1" Gorilla Tape from Home Depot. I started the tape at the 3rd spoke hole from the valve stem hole, wrapped the rim once, then overlapped to the 3rd spoke hole on the other side of the valve stem hole. Using Stans 35mm "Universal" valve stems. Also running Maxxis TR tires (Ardent 2.4 / Ardent 2.25). Will air them up tonight with Stans sealant and post a follow up.

  24. #224
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    Quote Originally Posted by gmats View Post
    I've used WD40. It's a great sticky/gooey remover. Kerosene works great too...I follow up with acetone to clean the surface ...
    OMS is WD40 without the light lube and kerosene with without the obscene smell. For ultimate cleanup afterwards, use lacquer thinner.

    Actually, the lightweight lube in WD40 helps with goo removal as it doesn't evaporate but it will interfere with the adhesion of subsequent rim tape.

    Gorilla tape is thick, heavy and messy; a redneck solution of if there ever was one. Kapton tape is thin, extremely lightweight, and leaves no adhesive residue; a much more sophisticated and erudite solution.

  25. #225
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    6,349
    Will maybe look into this Kapton tape you speak of.

    Black Gorilla tape is still my favorite. Peeling and shifting is remedied by being sure to use the proper width. No issues with my home brew sealant. The left over gum is not that big a deal. I use my thumbs and some old fashioned elbow grease to work it off on the rare occasion I need to retape.

    Stan's does not stick well to carbon nor does it conform well to rims with a deep center channel.

  26. #226
    Ride 'Til Your Knees Hurt
    Reputation: cycljunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,060
    1" Gorilla Tape, wrapped once (overlap @ valve stem). Tires aired up @ 30psi and beads seated properly. Maxis Arrrrrrrrrrrrrdent TR tires (2 4 / 2.25). So far so good. Trying to finish up my bike build tonight.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  27. #227
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    626
    Quote Originally Posted by rockman View Post
    Derby only recommends an 18mm width. His rims have a channel though. I believe going wall to wall on rims with hookless beads is unnecessary?
    That's the way Ray explained it too me. I'm replacing my Orange tape after +2 hard years on my wheels. I have 29'er rims that are 29 inner width. Wheel builders put the Orange tape on that were deliver with the rims. It was the 18mm flavor. Only trouble area developed after roughly putting an emergency tube in on a back country ride. Caused minor scooching of the tape and eventually exposed one of the spoke holes. I am a clyde and have been running 29-35 PSI in my rear tire. One wrap of the orange tape has seemed to hold up pretty well. I think Derby is also correct in recommending the 18mm width for his rims. Creates a better seal between just the rubber and CF without the edge of the tape to consider. Also makes it much easier to take tires on and off.
    I do appreciate the extra tip of warming up the rim prior to install. Makes sense.

    Cheers,
    Mike

  28. #228
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,285
    I've been having problems with my gorilla clear tape tubeless setup. Took the tire off and cleaned the rim. The tape around some of the spoke holes did this funky fold thing where the tape was in excess so much that it raised up and formed a ridge. I've seen tape pull away before or create a channel under it, but never create a ridge. When I put the tape on, it was pulled tight. Before setting it up tubeless, I put in a tube and kept it pressurized at 45 psi for a week. Everything looked good, flat, and sealed then. I've re-taped the rim and I'm letting it sit with a tube in it now. I guess I'll see how it does.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  29. #229
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    Others have mentioned it, but I use Kapton tape on mtb and road setups up to 100 psi. Sticks great, easily conforms to the rim profile, and leaves no adhesive residue when removed. I've even poke a hole in it to access a nipple and replace a spoke then patched the hole with a short piece of tape.
    Had hell with Kapton tape for my rear wheels. The rims are offset, so the nipple holes are too. The Kapton would just roll a little when the tyres were mounted, and then there would be exposed edges of the holes. Worked fine for the front. Velo tape solved the issue.

    Now, I've ordered the 66 meter Stans tape.

  30. #230
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    FYI

    All you folks cleaning your rims with (insert name here, wd40,goo gone, acetone, etc) make sure you 100% you get all of that cleaned out. What will happen with things like goo gone is that you will put it on a rag on directly on the residue in the rim and rub it off..While you are doing this goo gone travels down slightly into the nipple holes and sits there. You will retape over the leftover goo gone that's in the nipple hole and then a few weeks later wonder why your tape is coming up around the nipple holes. That's why.. That goo gone leaks back down onto it. Acetone wont do this but googone/wd40 will. So if you use those to clean residue, makes sure to wash the rim with soap and water and let it fully dry. Or just don't use gorilla tape (black) and you wont have to clean that stuff out.

  31. #231
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    2,534
    Just got done screwing with that garbage Stan's tape on Easton ARC 27 rims. The tape is a too stiff and simply doesn't stick. What a waste. It's odd bc the Stan's tape worked liked a charm on my other set of Flow EX rims. Time to get some Gorilla Tape at the hardware store.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  32. #232
    transmitter~receiver
    Reputation: meltingfeather's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    9,308
    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    Just got done screwing with that garbage Stan's tape on Easton ARC 27 rims. The tape is a too stiff and simply doesn't stick. What a waste. It's odd bc the Stan's tape worked liked a charm on my other set of Flow EX rims. Time to get some Gorilla Tape at the hardware store.
    Rim prep is your problem, not the tape.
    Gorilla is crap, but it will probably mask your poor prep problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  33. #233
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    I can't say an thing about the Easton wheels, but I've done plenty of tape jobs, all with Stan's and I've never experieneed any problems.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  34. #234
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    2,534
    Quote Originally Posted by meltingfeather View Post
    Rim prep is your problem, not the tape.
    Gorilla is crap, but it will probably mask your poor prep problem.
    So cleaning the rim with rubbing alcohol is poor prep? You seem to know a lot about me based on the few sentences I typed.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  35. #235
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EddieSmirckx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    So cleaning the rim with rubbing alcohol is poor prep? You seem to know a lot about me based on the few sentences I typed.
    Rubbing alcohol is what I use, too. It's cheap, readily available, works fine, evaporates completely with no residue, and it's safe for carbon rims. Why use anything else?

  36. #236
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gmats's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    3,213
    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    FYI

    All you folks cleaning your rims with (insert name here, wd40,goo gone, acetone, etc) make sure you 100% you get all of that cleaned out. What will happen with things like goo gone is that you will put it on a rag on directly on the residue in the rim and rub it off..While you are doing this goo gone travels down slightly into the nipple holes and sits there. You will retape over the leftover goo gone that's in the nipple hole and then a few weeks later wonder why your tape is coming up around the nipple holes. That's why.. That goo gone leaks back down onto it. Acetone wont do this but googone/wd40 will. So if you use those to clean residue, makes sure to wash the rim with soap and water and let it fully dry. Or just don't use gorilla tape (black) and you wont have to clean that stuff out.
    Absolutely. That's a great point. And Remember, it's clean but the original Stans set up years ago had us sanding the inside of the rim to make sure it was absolutely clean. This still pertains. The tape has to have an extremely clean surface to stick to and any solvent inside of the spoke holes or in the rim will only desolve the tape's glue.

  37. #237
    transmitter~receiver
    Reputation: meltingfeather's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    9,308
    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    So cleaning the rim with rubbing alcohol is poor prep? You seem to know a lot about me based on the few sentences I typed.
    Dood, calm down. I don't know anything about you.
    What I do know is that if Stan's tape doesn't stick it's due to surface prep. It's not rocket science. You might watch the rim prep videos Stan has made. Calling it garbage is pretty shortsighted.
    Quote Originally Posted by pvd
    Time to stop believing the hype and start doing some science.
    29er Tire Weight Database

  38. #238
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    530
    No one has mentioned regular old duct tape. I used some last night cuz I didn't feel like going to the bike shop.

    I'm guessing this was a bad idea since no one has mentioned it yet. Please let me know why so others can learn. :-)

  39. #239
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    ^^^ You be aware of why it's not the preferred tape come time for removal. Perhaps I can see using it as an emergency situation where you wanna ride and nothing else is around...maybe. There are usually plenty of better readily available alternatives.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  40. #240
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EddieSmirckx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by Skelldify View Post
    No one has mentioned regular old duct tape. I used some last night cuz I didn't feel like going to the bike shop.

    I'm guessing this was a bad idea since no one has mentioned it yet. Please let me know why so others can learn. :-)
    If duct tape is working for ya, don't worry about what anyone else says. This place is Trollsville sometimes. For every strongly held opinion you'll find an equally passionate opposite. At the end of the day it's just tape. Just about any kind that is sticky on one side will work if you're careful about it. This ain't like curing cancer or putting people on the moon...

  41. #241
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,285
    IMO it depends on the type of duct tape. If you're talking about a cheap silver backed duct tape from the dollar store, you're going to have problems. It'll stick and make a mess, but the silver backing is insanely thin and will peel away. A good quality duct tape, similar to gorilla tape, should be fine.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  42. #242
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Legbacon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,564
    I bought a couple of rolls of this. Doesn't stretch and is not super adhesive but sticks well enough and leaves no residue. I'll see about durability...
    It is very light though

    30mm Width x 30M Length Heat High Temperature Resistant Adhesive Tape Brown | eBay
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tape Thread-screen-shot-2016-08-06-9.00.34-am.jpg  

    Formerly Travis Bickle

    Team Robot. "modulation is code for “I suck at brake control.” Here’s a free tip: get better."

  43. #243
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    ^ hard to tell by the pix and the description but that looks like Kapton tape, which is what I use. It's a transparent amber color. 1 mil thick with a couple of mils of adhesive. It's very tough and has enough stretch to conform the the shape of the rim bed.

  44. #244
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Legbacon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,564
    I was trying to find Kapton and my search led me to this Chinese tape. Could be the same. It does conform the the rim ok. I'm hoping the weight savings over Gorilla tape will transfer into much faster climbing
    Formerly Travis Bickle

    Team Robot. "modulation is code for “I suck at brake control.” Here’s a free tip: get better."

  45. #245
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Legbacon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,564
    Free shipping from China!
    Formerly Travis Bickle

    Team Robot. "modulation is code for “I suck at brake control.” Here’s a free tip: get better."

  46. #246
    Land of the 230+
    Reputation: GuitsBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    2,532
    Looks for "polyamide" tape. Kapton is the brand name.

  47. #247
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    ^^^yeah. That's why it's capitalized...like Teflon, Delrin, Lexan, Lycra, Spandex, etc...

  48. #248
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    847
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    I was trying to find Kapton and my search led me to this Chinese tape. Could be the same. It does conform the the rim ok. I'm hoping the weight savings over Gorilla tape will transfer into much faster climbing
    Found this Kapton tape in Canada. Big jump from 10mm to 100mm though. Or this from Amazon. Much better pricing than the 60M of Stan's Tape on Amazon that was $50+$50 for shipping to Canada.

    Went to the LBS today and dropped $20 on 9M of Stan's Tape today. I've been on Gorilla Tape for a few years. Yesterday was the tipping point for GT. A valve stem leakage resulted in not being able to ride yesterday. Pull the tire off this AM; tape I installed yesterday has already pulled over nipple holes and folded in places. :/
    Actually somewhat surprised the LBS had a roll of Stan's Tape.

    I'm unsure to why I had the valve leakage. The Stan's valve doesn't appear to be damaged in anyway. Likely will install a new valve stem when I do the Stan's Tape to rule out the valve. Reusing a Stan's Valve hasn't given myself grief before now. Do people put a dab of silicon around the valve stem before installation to prevent leakage? Other than that I may've put too large of a hole in the Gorilla Tape...

  49. #249
    Short-Change-Hero
    Reputation: gregnash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    6,441
    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    Found this Kapton tape in Canada. Big jump from 10mm to 100mm though. Or this from Amazon. Much better pricing than the 60M of Stan's Tape on Amazon that was $50+$50 for shipping to Canada.

    Went to the LBS today and dropped $20 on 9M of Stan's Tape today. I've been on Gorilla Tape for a few years. Yesterday was the tipping point for GT. A valve stem leakage resulted in not being able to ride yesterday. Pull the tire off this AM; tape I installed yesterday has already pulled over nipple holes and folded in places. :/
    Actually somewhat surprised the LBS had a roll of Stan's Tape.

    I'm unsure to why I had the valve leakage. The Stan's valve doesn't appear to be damaged in anyway. Likely will install a new valve stem when I do the Stan's Tape to rule out the valve. Reusing a Stan's Valve hasn't given myself grief before now. Do people put a dab of silicon around the valve stem before installation to prevent leakage? Other than that I may've put too large of a hole in the Gorilla Tape...
    Ran into the same problem recently with Gorilla tape, two times using the 1" wide tape and a third using the 2" wide cut to fit just inside the bead seat. All leaked at the valve for me as well and that is with Stans Universal valves and a DT Swiss tubeless valve on WTB i29 rims which are tubeless.

    Conclusion is have come to is they NEED the tubeless tape now as Gorilla has changed something that no longer works well with our tubeless setups. I have yet to try my WTB 34mm wide tape for the i29 as recommended by WTB as I broke my leg after last swap to a tube when the tubeless wouldn't setup.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  50. #250
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    847
    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Ran into the same problem recently with Gorilla tape, two times using the 1" wide tape and a third using the 2" wide cut to fit just inside the bead seat. All leaked at the valve for me as well and that is with Stans Universal valves and a DT Swiss tubeless valve on WTB i29 rims which are tubeless.

    Conclusion is have come to is they NEED the tubeless tape now as Gorilla has changed something that no longer works well with our tubeless setups. I have yet to try my WTB 34mm wide tape for the i29 as recommended by WTB as I broke my leg after last swap to a tube when the tubeless wouldn't setup.
    I'm firmly entrenched with the anti-Gorilla Tape camp as of today.

    Installed one wrap + a bit of Stan's Tape and a fresh 44mm valve stem. Installed the tire with my hands (previously needed tire levers with this rim/tire combo.) Inflated and seated the bead with a floor pump, as I have done in the past. I'm somewhat disappointed that I didn't try the previous valve stem, but I was frustrated with the lack of riding time as of late. The two variables aside, I'm just happy the tire installation was relatively easy. No tire levers or hand injuries!

  51. #251
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    I have been using 1" Gorilla tape on my rims lately and I want to try something better. Looking at Kapton tape hoping that I can buy one width that will work on several rims: what width? I have a KOM i25 rim on my front mtb, Stans Arch EX rear, and DT swiss x430s (18.4mm ID) on my CX bike with a tubeless kludge. I can get 30mm Kapton tape, but will that be useless on the CX wheels? Can I install it and cut away the excess, of is that prohibitively cumbersome to do?
    Last edited by mack_turtle; 08-08-2016 at 11:03 AM.

  52. #252
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    3,483
    20mm Kapton tape will work fine, it's what I use on my rims which are 21-25mm internal width. I go with 2 full layers on the rims since I don't quite trust a single layer, on the wider rims you can offset the first wrap to one side and the 2nd layer to the other, such that the entire rim bed is covered and the nipple holes have a double layer on them all the way around. I didn't bother to do the offset wrap on my 25mm rim and it still works fine, but Spank Industries (the makers of my rims) recommends the offset wrap method.

  53. #253
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    maybe I missed something, but how does Kapton tape work? I just got some, stretched a double layer on my rim, then went to poke a hole for the valve and the tape split in half and started falling off the rim. I tried it again, same thing. how do you get a hole in Kapton take without it falling apart?

  54. #254
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manitou2200's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3,029
    It wouldn't use kapton tape. I'd use tyvek tape before kapton. You also don't want to trim the tape on the rim that's a bad idea. Make a cutter to trim it on the roll. Gorilla tape is ok if you need to tighten up the rim to tire bead bottom seal. The only time I had to do that was mounting my non TR 120 tpi Kard's on my Dually rims.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Function in disaster, finish in style.

  55. #255
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    I am asking all the people who have apparently used Kapton tape with success.

  56. #256
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    I am asking all the people who have apparently used Kapton tape with success.
    I have used Kapton tape with success. Not sure why yours split. Maybe you stretched it too tight (which i would think is damn impossible to do, but maybe you are Hulk).

    Also, not sure why the dude above said not to cut it while on the rim. I've done that with tyvek, kapton, and that green amazon stuff all the time. Typically the tape I use is a little wider than my inner rim width. So I will lay down layer 1 and then I will take and xacto knife/blade and just cut away the excess 2-3mm of tape that is going up the bead wall. Just stick the blade down in the corner of the rim where the bead wall/bead lock is and cut away. Then peel up that excess 2-3mm. The location of where I stick the blade of the xacto knife is on this pic labeled "bead lock"
    https://www.acebike.com/images/offse...ologies_03.jpg

    After I cut the excess away I take a sponge and slowly press down all the tape as best as I can making sure that the edge of all my tape is really really pressed down and sticking to the rim.

  57. #257
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    I pulled it pretty tight and tried poking a hole with a heated awl. It immediately split in half and strated curling up and falling off. I wrapped the tape again and tried to poke it with the sharp tip of a knife, same result.

    Sending it back. I am just going to accecpt being raped by the price of Stan's ir WTB tape.

  58. #258
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    I pulled it pretty tight and tried poking a hole with a heated awl. It immediately split in half and strated curling up and falling off. I wrapped the tape again and tried to poke it with the sharp tip of a knife, same result.

    Sending it back. I am just going to accecpt being raped by the price of Stan's ir WTB tape.
    That's the whole point of this thread. Not to get raped for 22.00 and only be able to do 1 set of wheels with that.

    Here dude.. Get this. It will work for you with very little cutting (maybe none at all depending on your inner rim width). check to make sure it will fit. This tape is cheap and works well. Works really well. I need to add it to the front page actually.

    https://www.amazon.com/Maxi-248-Poly.../dp/B00EP22NKY

    Or go get some Tyvek tape. You will have to cut it down to size though. Someone posted a link to some 1 3/4" tyvek on an earlier thread.

    If you want a super long term solution and don't super high PSI you can use gorilla clear. Some have reported it blowing out at spoke holes at high psi, but they typically are using just one layer.

  59. #259
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    Marker Post:
    updated OP with a few notes and some of the powder coating tapes. Let me know if I am missing a proven tape that is not on the front page.

  60. #260
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    Wider tapes i have tried. It was too much hassle to cut it. With all the time I have spent experimenting with unconventional tapes I could have just bought some purpose made tape and been done with it. I build my own wheels built all of my bikes from the frame-up and service my own Forks. This is just more hassle than it's worth

  61. #261
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    3,483
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    maybe I missed something, but how does Kapton tape work? I just got some, stretched a double layer on my rim, then went to poke a hole for the valve and the tape split in half and started falling off the rim. I tried it again, same thing. how do you get a hole in Kapton take without it falling apart?
    Couple things. You don't need to stretch the hell out of it like you do with Stan's tape, all you need is just enough tension to get the tape to conform to the rim. This usually keeps the tape from splitting and coming off the rim, or if does split, it stays stuck down. If the tape splits, just cut a 6-8" long piece and tape it over the valve hole WITHOUT putting tension on it, then poke the hole again.

  62. #262
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Wider tapes i have tried. It was too much hassle to cut it. With all the time I have spent experimenting with unconventional tapes I could have just bought some purpose made tape and been done with it. I build my own wheels built all of my bikes from the frame-up and service my own Forks. This is just more hassle than it's worth
    wow as a fellow wheel builder and bike builder I don't know what to say. if running an xacto knife around your rim 1x is too much work, I really don't know what to say. I think it takes literally 10 seconds? Plus another 15-30 seconds to peel away the overlapped cut tape.

    Purpose made tapes? You think stans tape was specifically made for stans?

  63. #263
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    Couple things. You don't need to stretch the hell out of it like you do with Stan's tape, all you need is just enough tension to get the tape to conform to the rim. This usually keeps the tape from splitting and coming off the rim, or if does split, it stays stuck down. If the tape splits, just cut a 6-8" long piece and tape it over the valve hole WITHOUT putting tension on it, then poke the hole again.
    Sorry for the outburst. I just had a frustration morning being humiliated by my bike doing what I thought would be an easy job.

    Yes, now that I have had time to think about it, I must have pulled the tape too hard and split it with the tension. I am used to Stans and Gorilla tape, which you have to stretch pretty darn hard to make it fit. Since I have yards of the stuff, I can give it another go. Thanks!

    How many layers of Kapton should I need on a Stans rim?

    I tried wider tape but i could not keep it from splitting. Maybe I just don't have the steadiness to cut it evenly and maybe I was stretching it too tight in the first place. If I had access to a tool to cut it down nice and clean, perhaps that would have been less of a headache.

  64. #264
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    3,483
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    How many layers of Kapton should I need on a Stans rim?
    I generally go with 2 full layers, starting on the side opposite the valve hole. This lets me put the patch piece over the valve hole if I need it without making that area too thick.

  65. #265
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,285
    Kapton tape to create a bead shelf lip? anything else that works well? Strong adhessive, thick, hard plastic. I have a SR-25 rim that I've split tube before, and it worked pretty good. It was a absolute pain to get that split tube off of there though. Had to use an exacto knife to cut the tube underneath the tire.

    I'd like to build up a little bit of a lip to help retain the bead lock. WTB does a great job with this, but sunringle does a horrible job. Especially on their inferno rims and that U shape. At least the SR25 has a bead shelf.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  66. #266
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    I thought Sun were using BST design licensed from Stan's. Is that still relevant?

  67. #267
    mtbr member
    Reputation: watts888's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    6,285
    I think some are, but some older rims, especially low end ones, don't.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  68. #268
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    Quote Originally Posted by watts888 View Post
    Kapton tape to create a bead shelf lip? anything else that works well?.
    Kapton is thin, you want thick tape for rims that don't have a tubeless-specific bead shelf. I have my CX bike with non-tubeless rims set up with two layers of Gorilla tape and WTB tcs tires. The bead on those tires is very tight, so it works well.

  69. #269
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manitou2200's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3,029
    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post

    Also, not sure why the dude above said not to cut it while on the rim. I've done that with tyvek, kapton, and that green amazon stuff all the time. Typically the tape I use is a little wider than my inner rim width. So I will lay down layer 1 and then I will take and xacto knife/blade and just cut away the excess 2-3mm of tape that is going up the bead wall. Just stick the blade down in the corner of the rim where the bead wall/bead lock is and cut away. Then peel up that excess 2-3mm. The location of where I stick the blade of the xacto knife is on this pic labeled "bead lock"
    https://www.acebike.com/images/offse...ologies_03.jpg

    After I cut the excess away I take a sponge and slowly press down all the tape as best as I can making sure that the edge of all my tape is really really pressed down and sticking to the rim.
    You ask why I said not to trim the tape on the rim? Are you f'ng kidding me?
    First off you're compromising your carbon rim by actually scoring it. That's like asking for a failure and as a matter of fact you should ask the rim manufacturer what they think of this idea to trim the tape on the rim. They'll tell you you just voided your warranty! LOL
    Second thing is trimming the roll is about 100 times faster and more accurate than what you're doing and if you plan correctly you may be able to use the opposite side of the cut so you waste less.
    Third if it's an aluminum rim you've just created a burr and again weakened the rim by scoring it.
    Should I go on or do you know see how idiotic your idea is?
    It's so easy to mount a utility knife blade to a block of wood with a fence to set the width of the trimmer that you'll be thinking; WTF was I thinking!
    Function in disaster, finish in style.

  70. #270
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    You ask why I said not to trim the tape on the rim? Are you f'ng kidding me?
    First off you're compromising your carbon rim by actually scoring it. That's like asking for a failure and as a matter of fact you should ask the rim manufacturer what they think of this idea to trim the tape on the rim. They'll tell you you just voided your warranty! LOL
    Second thing is trimming the roll is about 100 times faster and more accurate than what you're doing and if you plan correctly you may be able to use the opposite side of the cut so you waste less.
    Third if it's an aluminum rim you've just created a burr and again weakened the rim by scoring it.
    Should I go on or do you know see how idiotic your idea is?
    It's so easy to mount a utility knife blade to a block of wood with a fence to set the width of the trimmer that you'll be thinking; WTF was I thinking!
    That escalated quickly!

  71. #271
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manitou2200's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3,029
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    That escalated quickly!
    Escalated? It's so obvious why you would do something like that that I can't believe he actually posted what he did. Think about it!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Function in disaster, finish in style.

  72. #272
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    Not touching that with an 11 foot pole.

  73. #273
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    I saw what you did there Mack.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  74. #274
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by manitou2200 View Post
    You ask why I said not to trim the tape on the rim? Are you f'ng kidding me?
    First off you're compromising your carbon rim by actually scoring it. That's like asking for a failure and as a matter of fact you should ask the rim manufacturer what they think of this idea to trim the tape on the rim. They'll tell you you just voided your warranty! LOL
    Second thing is trimming the roll is about 100 times faster and more accurate than what you're doing and if you plan correctly you may be able to use the opposite side of the cut so you waste less.
    Third if it's an aluminum rim you've just created a burr and again weakened the rim by scoring it.
    Should I go on or do you know see how idiotic your idea is?
    It's so easy to mount a utility knife blade to a block of wood with a fence to set the width of the trimmer that you'll be thinking; WTF was I thinking!
    Do you think I am carving into my rim full force like someone etching their name in a park bench? Do you think that an carbon/aluminum bead wall is that susceptible to damage from a blade that really doesn't even hit it.? The tape overlap makes a transition in which the blade has room to penetrate without carving into your rim. You should try it before you tell people it's a bad idea. Even if i pushed the blade enough to score a razor thin line in the carbon you really think it's going compromise my rim? If carbon and aluminum were really that fragile then 777's would be falling out of the sky, we couldn't ride our bikes on dirt, and my carbon fiber quad i've crashed 20x's wouldn't be operational.

    Not only do I practice what I preach, but I even do it on some spendy wheels. Post 11 is my carbon enve's that I have taped 2 other types of tape since that post. Guess how I cut those next tapes down to size? I am a heck of a lot more worried about all the rocks, roots, trees, and other abuse my rims go through than a possible razor thin line around the inside edge of a bead wall (that doesn't exist).

    Remember I started this thread? I've cut down my share of tapes. Matter of fact, your use of tyvek tape probably came from post 1 of this thread (thank me later). One thing you are right about was me thinking "WTF was I thinking". That thought came to me once I learned how the Downhillers/Enduro/Fat bike riders cut their gorilla clear directly on the rim. I thought "wtf was I thinking trying to cut a roll of tape to size?" Cutting on the rim has been by far the most effective, best fitting, efficient way I've done it (other than buying perfect size tape which is not always an option). Apparently you can mount a utility blade to a block of wood and cut perfect in less than 10 seconds? That's seriously impressive.

    So yeah back to your question, Please go on. Your constructive contribution to this thread is appreciated.

  75. #275
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manitou2200's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3,029

    Tubeless Tape Thread

    This is not a pissing match and I'm not going to argue with you about your choice and recommendation to trim tape on a rim with a knife. This is not a good idea and it's bad advice to be dolling out here. Don't take my word for it, contact Enve, Reynolds, Derby, Nox and ask them about your technique trimming tape on the rim. Then post back here on the thread you started (which by the way is a very good thread, so thanks) and let us know what they say. I don't think you're going to like what they tell you but you should because it may save you some headaches down the road.
    Scuff, nicks, scratches to a carbon rim from riding is not going to cause as much of an issue as a cut in line around the rim. Sure you can crush a rim in a crash if it contacts rock to the sidewall but that'll happen to most any rim or frame for that matter regardless of material.
    Trimming the tape on the roll is faster, more efficient and more accurate. I obviously exaggerated about it being 100 times faster but I was trying to make a point. Trimming on the roll allows you to trim the whole roll quickly and once you do it you'll see what I mean. It's easy to make a guide with a fence holding an utility knife blade and clamp it to your bench, then you slide the role up to the guide and blade and spin it around cutting the tape accurately and quickly, as much or as little of the roll as you need.
    I've been 100% tubeless for almost 12 years now except on my road bike. I've run ghetto tubeless, UST, and now the TR systems, they've gotten so good now that it seems crazy to me to not to be running tubeless on your mountain bikes.
    The other issue is it's not always necessary to run the tape wall to wall as some rim manufactures don't recommend it and some tires are very tight to the bead bed as is. I also sometimes brush a thin layer of contact cement in the center well to assist the tape in adhesion. You can use solvent based contact or water are if your concerned about a reaction to to the carbon rim. This really helps the tape lay down and adhere sometimes and clean up is not an issue if you have to re-tape the rim down the road.
    You cover the tape options well in this thread but no I did not get the Tyvek idea from here. Some of the earliest ghetto tubeless I did was using a layer of nylon fiber packing tape and a layer of 3m electrical tape over the top. The electrical tape is impervious to most everything and seals perfectly but stretches too much to be used alone. The fiber tape controlled the stretch but is not as durable or has the best sealing properties.
    So yes I practice what I preach as well. I just want to help members avoid potential issues as I see them with some not so great advice. I do apologize for being a bit of a bull in a china shop here.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Function in disaster, finish in style.

  76. #276
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    124
    Has anyone ever tried shin pad hockey tape? It's super cheap and easily available everywhere here in Canada??

    Renfrew Poly Clear Shin Guard Hockey Tape

  77. #277
    mtbr member
    Reputation: manitou2200's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3,029
    I'm sure it works, it's a bit on the thick side but that would be good for some tire rim combos. Probably wouldn't need more than once around for most.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Function in disaster, finish in style.

  78. #278
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mack_turtle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    10,757
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Not touching that with an 11 foot pole.
    Neg repped for that with the comment "you've go [sic] the problem pal!"

    Not touching that with a 12 footer either.

  79. #279
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EndoanaJones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    My Experience with the following tapes and a few questions........
    Tesa 4289
    This is the tape that people say is exactly what Stans is. You can find it dirt cheap on amazon. The only issue i've had with stans tapes and as well as the 9998 tapes is that when they sit or are in the heat long the adhesive tends to wear off. I've even got rolls from amazon that were kind of warped and you could tell the warping was from them getting hot/cold/hot/cold int he warehouse and the adhesive coming undone
    Has anyone tried TESA 4298? The company website says it doesn't leave any residue. The TESA 4289 doesn't make that claim. Just wondering

  80. #280
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    522
    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    ........A valve stem leakage resulted in not being able to ride yesterday. Pull the tire off this AM; tape I installed yesterday has already pulled over nipple holes and folded in places. :/
    Actually somewhat surprised the LBS had a roll of Stan's Tape.

    I'm unsure to why I had the valve leakage. The Stan's valve doesn't appear to be damaged in anyway. Likely will install a new valve stem when I do the Stan's Tape to rule out the valve. Reusing a Stan's Valve hasn't given myself grief before now. Do people put a dab of silicon around the valve stem before installation to prevent leakage? Other than that I may've put too large of a hole in the Gorilla Tape...
    In my experience, sealant leaking out at the valve hole does not mean theres a problem with the valve or the valve hole or the tape over the valve hole. Sealant can get into any of the spoke holes and will migrate to the only exit in the system, which is the non-rubber-gasket-end of the valve. It's less likely to leak out of the spoke holes because of the high tension pulling the nipple tightly agains the rim surface. Fluid doesn't run in a straight line, it goes all over the damn place. As this post mentioned, the tape had already started rolling over the nipple holes. There's your obvious leak.
    Knolly Chilcotin
    Knolly Warden
    Knolly Podium
    Knolly Delirium

  81. #281
    mtbr member
    Reputation: EndoanaJones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    104
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    In my experience, sealant leaking out at the valve hole does not mean theres a problem with the valve or the valve hole or the tape over the valve hole. Sealant can get into any of the spoke holes.......
    I came to the same conclusion recently after developing a leak. I replaced the valve stem and aired up the tire. After airing up I sprayed soapy water on the tire/rim and bubbles appeared at the valve stem. I put the old valve stem back in - same thing. I finally discovered a wrinkle in the tape that made a conduit to a spoke hole and I figured that was the problem.
    I re-taped the rim and all is well.

  82. #282
    *n00b*
    Reputation: ShadowGLI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    Here dude.. Get this. It will work for you with very little cutting (maybe none at all depending on your inner rim width). check to make sure it will fit. This tape is cheap and works well. Works really well. I need to add it to the front page actually.

    https://www.amazon.com/Maxi-248-Poly.../dp/B00EP22NKY
    Thanks again for all the work you and other contributors have added to this thread.

    I just went tubeless this year on my 27.5+ bike but my wheels came pre-taped from factory. I had a hub failure the other week and the manufacturer is replacing the hub and relacing the wheel, but I have heard from others that they have sent the wheels back NOT taped, hence my search.

    I am going to give this Maxi tape a try as its one of the few that should not require cutting being that I only have a 32mm wide OD rim at this time, I figure the width should be just about right. *Fingers Crossed*.

    I'll be sure to update down the road w/ the success (or lack there of) that I encounter w/ this tape.. wish me luck and thanks again!
    Ryan - 2016 DB Mason Trail

  83. #283
    Cyclist
    Reputation: GarfieldCat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    21
    I tried Gorilla Clear Repair Tape on a non UST rim with a UST tire. it failed, twice. I just could not get it to seal. The surface of the tape is slippery and the 2nd layer slid on top of the 1st layer. It also left a residue when I took it off. Maybe some people have success with the Gorilla Clear, but I struck out twice.
    My Rides:
    MTB NightTrain Bullet Ti Fat Bike
    MTB Fly Team29 Ti
    MTB Giant XTC 26" HT
    Cross Cannondale SuperX
    Road Cervelo R5

  84. #284
    *n00b*
    Reputation: ShadowGLI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    That's the whole point of this thread. Not to get raped for 22.00 and only be able to do 1 set of wheels with that.

    Here dude.. Get this. It will work for you with very little cutting (maybe none at all depending on your inner rim width). check to make sure it will fit. This tape is cheap and works well. Works really well. I need to add it to the front page actually.

    https://www.amazon.com/Maxi-248-Poly.../dp/B00EP22NKY
    As a follow up, I have had the 1/2" version of this tape on my rear wheel for 3 weeks now after my rear hub was fixed and it has held air perfectly so far (even with an overlap section in the middle of the rim (pic below). I'm going to order a 1" wide version to redo my wheels in the spring but so far I'm incredibly happy and this is basically VERY sticky (but resedue free) plastic tape... it has the perfect amount of stretch/tension and has a great seal.


    Last edited by ShadowGLI; 10-26-2016 at 12:36 PM.
    Ryan - 2016 DB Mason Trail

  85. #285
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    ^^^ The picture no showy
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  86. #286
    Always in the wrong gear
    Reputation: Impetus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    2,510
    I used 20mm Kapton tape (20mmx100ft $5-6 on eBay) on my i30 carbon wheels when I first had them built. went on easily and seems to stick well.
    Previously, with gorilla tape, Stan's tape or "fake Stan's' 3M 8898 I would have occasional leaks from the spoke holes that required the tubeless shake and dance to seal. I expected the same from kapton, but it doesn't seem to be the case. Likely more due to the rim width than anything, but regardless, kapton laid down nicely.

    I laid down 2 layers of Kapton with only just a little bit of tension and cut an X for the valve hole with a hobby razor knife.. jammed in the valve stem and aired it up.
    I really like that it's translucent and I can easily see where/if sealant has gotten under the tape.

    Kapton is definitely my tape of choice now.

  87. #287
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    +1 on Kapton. I don't cut an X though. I prefer to poke a hole in the hopes that there isn't a tear in the tape where valve base seals. I use one layer on mtb and two on road.
    Do the math.

  88. #288
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    475
    I use soldering iron to make the valve hole

  89. #289
    RAKC
    Reputation: tigris99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7,383
    Kapton tape truly is the best tubeless tape option there is IMO. I've done gorilla, gorilla clear, and Stan's. Kapton has give my 0 issues where as something always went wrong with the others.

    And kapton tape comes in widths that you can do 80 and 100mm fat hoops too without issues (need a rim strip over the rim cut outs though of course).

    Kapton doesn't break down and start leaking or anything else due to sealant.

    Only thing is DONT STRETCH IT. Only just enough to make it fit snug on the rim. If you pull and stretch like you do other tapes it will tear at the nipple hole. And there is 0 reason to pull on it that hard anyway. Fits and seals perfectly.

    So far my son's 20", about to do it on his 24" fat bike that is replacing the 20", my 29er and my fat bike on mulefuts.

    Every one I've had 0 issues with. 29er has been going all season including a rear tire change, haven't touched the tape. Fat bike I set up and rode for a bit with a 3.8 tire on the rear, just switched it to a 4.7 tire, didn't touch the tape at all just switched tires and been perfect.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  90. #290
    *n00b*
    Reputation: ShadowGLI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    59
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    ^^^ The picture no showy
    Fixed but included here again

    Ryan - 2016 DB Mason Trail

  91. #291
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BareNecessities's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    109
    After reading through the thread, I've decided to give the Kapton polyimide tape a go. I've used Gorilla before and don't like the residue & sealant absorption. Tesa 4289 has also been effective, but I've found that it doesn't conform well to some rim beds.

    Would one layer of Kapton be enough for relatively low pressure mtb tyres?

  92. #292
    RAKC
    Reputation: tigris99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7,383
    No use 2-3 layers. Its still far lighter than anything else.

    Also DO NOT pull tight like you do other tapes. Just pull a little bit, enough to avoid wrinkles and such. Anything more and when you cut the hole for the valve stem the tape will tear and you'll be starting over.

    I'm on an entire season on my 29er and 2 months on the my fat bike using kapton tape and first time I have had 0 tape issues.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  93. #293
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BareNecessities's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    No use 2-3 layers. Its still far lighter than anything else.

    Also DO NOT pull tight like you do other tapes. Just pull a little bit, enough to avoid wrinkles and such. Anything more and when you cut the hole for the valve stem the tape will tear and you'll be starting over.

    I'm on an entire season on my 29er and 2 months on the my fat bike using kapton tape and first time I have had 0 tape issues.
    Good to hear. I'll be careful not to stretch it tight.

    Thanks!

  94. #294
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    As mentioned earlier, I use 1 layer of Kapton on mtb and two on 100psi road tires. I do check for and remove any sharp burs on the the spoke holes in the rim bed, which I do when using Stan's tape too. It's stupidly light so use more layers if it makes you feel better. On road wheels it weighed 5gm/wheel with two layers.

    If it tears, you can put a couple of inch patch over it. I've poked holes through it to replace spokes and then patched the holes with short pieces.
    Do the math.

  95. #295
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BareNecessities's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by Lone Rager View Post
    As mentioned earlier, I use 1 layer of Kapton on mtb and two on 100psi road tires. I do check for and remove any sharp burs on the the spoke holes in the rim bed, which I do when using Stan's tape too. It's stupidly light so use more layers if it makes you feel better. On road wheels it weighed 5gm/wheel with two layers.
    Ah yes. It was your posts that made me wonder if one wrap was enough. The spoke holes on my Easton Arc 30s seem well finished, so they should present no problems. It even looks as if Easton sell rebranded Kapton tape as part of their tubeless conversion kit.

    Easton MTB Tubeless Conversion Kit | Chain Reaction Cycles

  96. #296
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    519
    Got a pair of Mulefut 80mm rims that I have been messing around with tape on. Front is stretch wrap (gives me no problems, except when I change tires I have to redo it every time), rear was just redone with Tough Duct tape and is slowly leaking probably due to a poor tape job by me.

    Think this will work for them? 80mm polyimide tape.
    80mm 8cm x 30M Kapton Tape High Temperature Heat Resistant Polyimide | eBay

    Seems cheap for quite a bit of it. Also the Sun Ringle tape is 78mm, do you think I will need to trim the 2mm or not?

    Thanks

    P.S.

    I have also never had an issue with Stans tape. It is just pricey even if you can get deals on it.

  97. #297
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    In the fatbike tires I've set up, I've used wide Gorilla tape...which I'm not very fond of. I leave the existing rim strip on to cover the cutouts in the rim, go around one side of the rim and then use a heat gun to help form and adhere the tape to the rim bed. The I do the other side of the rim. It works OK except it's not uncommon for the adhesive to ooze out from under the tape and stick to the tire bead causing the Gorilla tape to pull up when removing the tire, which sometimes necessitates retaping. One thing about Gorilla tape is that it's pretty thick and builds up the bead seat diameter of the rim so that the tire's bead fits more tightly. Kapton wouldn't do that. I'm not sure how well Kapton would conform to the rim bed shape and cover the existing rim strip. Conceivably you could use narrower Kapton, maybe 1" wide, and go around the rim in a spiral overlapping the tape 1/2 its width. I'm not sure that's a great idea either. I always install a tube and let it sit for a while to press down and form the tape the rim bed. Anyway, give it a shot and report back with how it works and what you think.
    Do the math.

  98. #298
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    519
    Does Kapton not have a strong adhesive?

    I am not worried about setting up the bead seat to make the tires fit tighter. Have you ever tried to take a tire off a Mulefut? Nearly impossible.

  99. #299
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    The adhesive is pretty thin and works well on smooth clean surfaces. It's not tacky, thick and goopy like Gorilla tape's adhesive and won't fill voids or stick to something that isn't smooth. If it doesn't lie flat and gets wrinkles, the adhesive may not fill the wrinkles and it could leak.
    Do the math.

  100. #300
    Hitching a ride
    Reputation: Schulze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    3,191
    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Wider tapes i have tried. It was too much hassle to cut it. With all the time I have spent experimenting with unconventional tapes I could have just bought some purpose made tape and been done with it. I build my own wheels built all of my bikes from the frame-up and service my own Forks. This is just more hassle than it's worth
    8898 is all you need.

  101. #301
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dsmxsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    188

    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Not sure of the brand name, but I work in the bio pharm construction industry and I picked up a roll of what we call "clean room" tape. It's basically a vinyl duct tape that will not leave any residue behind. I taped up my first rim with it earlier today, and it sealed up fine. I'll report back if there's any issues.
    (Edit)
    Here's a link to the manufacturers page. This stuff isn't that cheap. It still cheaper than stans. https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline.c...B&gclsrc=aw.ds



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  102. #302
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    Quote Originally Posted by dsmxsteve View Post
    This stuff isn't that cheap. It still cheaper than stans. https://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline.c...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
    Hmmm...$17 per roll with a minimum 6 roll purchase.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  103. #303
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    897
    3M 8896 strapping tape works awesome. On the zon for $7.36. 1" by 60 yards.

  104. #304
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dsmxsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    188

    Tubeless Tape Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Hmmm...$17 per roll with a minimum 6 roll purchase.
    That was directly from the distributor, I imagine it can be found in single roll quantities from vendors.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  105. #305
    Hitching a ride
    Reputation: Schulze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    3,191
    dsmxsteve, how is the stretchiness of this vinyl tape?

  106. #306
    J:
    Reputation: Deerhill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    5,128
    Clean room tape...what is it used for?
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  107. #307
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dsmxsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    dsmxsteve, how is the stretchiness of this vinyl tape?
    It's pretty stretchy. Matter of fact, I had to be careful not to over stretch it when I installed it on my rim. So I did a double wrap and put 10 miles and a few smaller jumps by a 230 lb. man on the bike today and no blow outs yet. This is on a i23 Rim


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  108. #308
    MCMXCV
    Reputation: D Bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    1,277
    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Clean room tape...what is it used for?
    To tape a clean room.....



    ......Bom-Ba-Dom

  109. #309
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dsmxsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Clean room tape...what is it used for?
    For a variety things on the bio pharm and semiconductor industry. In the shop I work at we use it as a residue free adhesive, labeling,as well as protection against contamination.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  110. #310
    J:
    Reputation: Deerhill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    5,128
    Quote Originally Posted by dsmxsteve View Post
    For a variety things on the bio pharm and semiconductor industry. In the shop I work at we use it as a residue free adhesive, labeling,as well as protection against contamination.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Interesting find...does it protect against gas / liquid contamination?
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  111. #311
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,408
    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    3M 8896 strapping tape works awesome. On the zon for $7.36. 1" by 60 yards.
    That's what I use. It's perfect.

    Pumped MTB tires up to 50psi+ to "stretch" and the tape shows no signs of deformation at the spoke holes. No residue, good adhesion to the rim, and seems air tight and sealant proof.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    Death from Below.

  112. #312
    J:
    Reputation: Deerhill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    5,128
    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    That's what I use. It's perfect.

    Pumped MTB tires up to 50psi+ to "stretch" and the tape shows no signs of deformation at the spoke holes. No residue, good adhesion to the rim, and seems air tight and sealant proof.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    Use it too, not specifically for tubeless, but as a strip sized to lower channel / over the spoke holes...w/ the full width, sometimes if the channel is deep it doesn't quite stretch, when first aired up it kind of moves out of place in spots
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  113. #313
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dsmxsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    188
    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Interesting find...does it protect against gas / liquid contamination?
    Now that, I'm not sure of and that was my only concern when being used as tubeless tape. I think I had mentioned it once before but I have a double wrap on a rear i23 with almost 3 ounces of stans in it. So far it's been 3 days of good hard riding (for a heavy rookie) I've put on them and the haven't leaked a bit. I just checked them again this morning with soapy water, as I'm going on a longer ride and don't want to be stranded and not a single bubble has immersed. I will keep an update going if people want to know the results


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  114. #314
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Steezus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    823
    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    Use it too, not specifically for tubeless, but as a strip sized to lower channel / over the spoke holes...w/ the full width, sometimes if the channel is deep it doesn't quite stretch, when first aired up it kind of moves out of place in spots
    I use a heat gun when mounting it and it helps me get it as flat as possible in the lower channel and also seems to prevent it from moving after airing it up. I also got the wider roll and it is kind of a pain to get it flat in the channel since it wants to grip the top of the channel first.

    I just use one layer, but haven't been using this tape for long term. I just know with Stans I end up with leaks no matter how good my job looks and this 3M tape results in zero leaks so far.

  115. #315
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,408
    Quote Originally Posted by Steezus View Post
    I use a heat gun when mounting it and it helps me get it as flat as possible in the lower channel and also seems to prevent it from moving after airing it up. I also got the wider roll and it is kind of a pain to get it flat in the channel since it wants to grip the top of the channel first.

    I just use one layer, but haven't been using this tape for long term. I just know with Stans I end up with leaks no matter how good my job looks and this 3M tape results in zero leaks so far.
    It feels like it's 1.5-2x as thick as Stans tape, and maybe slightly more adhesive.

    I have the 1" wide roll. Fills up the interior of my Nox Teocalli just about perfectly. Even works with older, narrower rims, just comes up the sides a bit.

    The heat gun thing is a great idea. When I put it on the rim, I pull it pretty tight so that it's being forced down into the channel first and foremost. Then I press it down manually on the raised portions nearer the bead.
    Death from Below.

  116. #316
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Steezus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    823
    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    It feels like it's 1.5-2x as thick as Stans tape, and maybe slightly more adhesive.

    I have the 1" wide roll. Fills up the interior of my Nox Teocalli just about perfectly. Even works with older, narrower rims, just comes up the sides a bit.

    The heat gun thing is a great idea. When I put it on the rim, I pull it pretty tight so that it's being forced down into the channel first and foremost. Then I press it down manually on the raised portions nearer the bead.
    I have the one inch tape as well and the new 26mm internal width rims I installed it on were a ***** because of how deeply dished the channel was. I tried to stretch it and the glue would just bond really hard to the edges of the dish as I tried to set it. I wasted 2 rims worth of tape before I had to finesse it into the channel and heat up each section as I press and set it permanently. After 4 rims my thumbnails felt like it was separating from my fingers, but damn that tape grips so well. I like that it is translucent so you can see the air bubbles to remove all of them when installing.

  117. #317
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,408
    Quote Originally Posted by Steezus View Post
    I have the one inch tape as well and the new 26mm internal width rims I installed it on were a ***** because of how deeply dished the channel was. I tried to stretch it and the glue would just bond really hard to the edges of the dish as I tried to set it. I wasted 2 rims worth of tape before I had to finesse it into the channel and heat up each section as I press and set it permanently. After 4 rims my thumbnails felt like it was separating from my fingers, but damn that tape grips so well. I like that it is translucent so you can see the air bubbles to remove all of them when installing.
    It's worth noting that I rebuilt a rear wheel this summer that I'd used 8896 on, and there is NO residue when you pull it off. Unlike Gorilla tape, which will provide the user with an hour or more of cursing when you try to remove it.

    And yes, the ability to see the air pockets and press them out is nice. Guarantees that you get maximum adhesion to the rim, so the tape will have less chance of shifting once installed.

    One thing that might help is doing a "basic" installation, then throwing a tire AND tube on, and inflating to a pretty high pressure. This should pack the tape down and not require nearly as much effort.
    Death from Below.

  118. #318
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    52
    Did you order the 8896 on line or was it available locally?

  119. #319
    Formerly of Kent
    Reputation: Le Duke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    11,408
    Quote Originally Posted by Carl H. View Post
    Did you order the 8896 on line or was it available locally?
    I live in the sticks (rural western VA) so I do most of my shopping on Amazon. The closest store that carries anything like it is 20min+ away.

    https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-S...87YMVA7JP2FE9Z
    Death from Below.

  120. #320
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    229
    Inspired by this test's results on glass, I went with Polyken 231, 1" wide and taped bead-to-bead on rims of the same width (i.e. tape covers the bead seat). Only one layer, with overlap at the valve. So far, so good.

    It's very sticky on smooth surfaces once you've pressed and rubbed it down firmly, which certainly does help the thin and stiff glue (compared to Gorilla Tape).

  121. #321
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    202
    Anybody try this out yet? Stucco Tape, a polyethylene film with rubber adhesive, supposed to come up clean. I need to tape up Mulefut 50's and am thinking of trying this out.

    https://www.shurtape.com/cloth-duct-.../stucco/pe-444
    Tubeless Tape Thread-stucco-2.jpg

  122. #322
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    52
    Anybody ever given this stuff a look? I have no idea how heavy it is, but it looks like good stuff for this application.

    MOCAP's Silicone X‑Treme Tape™ is made from a special silicone material which sticks (bonds) only to itself. X-Treme Tape™ has NO ADHESIVE and leaves no residue when removed. MOCAP silicone tape stretches up to 300% and conforms to irregular shapes.


    Creates an Air-Tight, Water-Tight Seal in seconds!
    Never gets gooey or sticky like old-fashioned electrical tape or duct tape - No messy cleanup!
    Has an incredibly long shelf life!
    Is extremely versatile!
    Resists Acids, Fuels, Oils, Solvents, Salt Water, UV Rays
    The only drawback I see to it is its price. For a single 2"x36' roll it's about $50 shipped.

  123. #323
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    475
    if you've used silicone tapes before, they're quite grippy
    if the tire is not loose, it will tear/peel the tape during installation/removal
    tubeless tape needs to be slippery on the outside

  124. #324
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    475
    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    Inspired by this test's results on glass, I went with Polyken 231, 1" wide and taped bead-to-bead on rims of the same width (i.e. tape covers the bead seat). Only one layer, with overlap at the valve. So far, so good.

    It's very sticky on smooth surfaces once you've pressed and rubbed it down firmly, which certainly does help the thin and stiff glue (compared to Gorilla Tape).
    how pliable is it? will it stick and remain stuck to an actual bead lock like this one (or anything with acute angles in general) ?
    https://www.benscycle.com/images/pro...e/25102_2_.jpg

  125. #325
    western NC
    Reputation: HPIguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1,634
    For you guys using the strapping tape, is it still holding well? I need to tape up a set of Duroc 50's, and the 1.88in comes in at 47mm, which is perfect for the 46mm inner of the rim. LBS isn't going to have tubeless tape anywhere near that width. And I'm guessing you're using the clear version, and not the reinforced?

  126. #326
    *n00b*
    Reputation: ShadowGLI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    59
    I ended up purchasing the wider version of the same tape I previously purchased (had to overlap it and I didn't like that (never leaked though). The 1" version fit the inner width of my 28mm rims perfect and sealed incredibly well. It also was great how easy the old tape peeled off with no residue. and for the price/prime shipping its a win-win

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKGIBYE

    Tubeless Tape Thread-capture.jpg
    Ryan - 2016 DB Mason Trail

  127. #327
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    161
    I just picked up two of these https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...m-strip/105975.

    Beats the hell out of taping the rim. I used the 27.5x31MM on Stans MK3 Flows and it was a perfect fit. $3 per wheel at my LBS.

  128. #328
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    how pliable is it? will it stick and remain stuck to an actual bead lock like this one (or anything with acute angles in general) ?
    https://www.benscycle.com/images/pro...e/25102_2_.jpg
    The high fiber content means it feels somewhere between typical duct tape and a fiber tape, such as hockey tape. Thickness is similar to duct tape, but less elongation. Much thinner than Gorilla Tape. I see no reason why it should have problems with a bead lock.

    Do you need to tape over the bead lock? Whenever possible, I tape only the spoke holes, though I could see a need for full-width taping on a pinned or sleeved rim.

  129. #329
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    475
    yep, pinned rim

  130. #330
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    299
    Hey there,

    After reading through all 7 pages, it seems that gorilla tape has updated their black tape and it does not work as well for tubless. Is that correct? Does this also make the clear gorilla tape not work for tubless either?

    Amazon does have the Kapton tape. HERE is a link.

    Thanks,

    Skip

  131. #331
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    Anyone try e13's tape, or know exactly what it is? Just read this on their site:

    Most tubeless tape has as least one weakness. It doesn't stick well, leaves a residue when removed, is hard to install, is too thick or too thin.

    Our tape balances the needs of tubeless users with a purpose designed tape, not just our favorite tape from the hardware store.

    What's in the box: Tubeless tape

    e*thirteen tubeless tape:

    Has the right amount of adhesive
    Will not leave a residue when removed
    Stretches for easy install and snug valve fit
    Won't tear easily
    Comes in perfect widths for e*thirteen rims
    8m roll tapes 2 wheels
    40m roll tapes 10 wheels

    However, it aint cheap
    '18 banshee rune

  132. #332
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    OP, whats your verdict between kapton and maxi 248?
    '18 banshee rune

  133. #333
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Loch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    274
    Quote Originally Posted by rodzilla View Post
    Anybody try this out yet? Stucco Tape, a polyethylene film with rubber adhesive, supposed to come up clean. I need to tape up Mulefut 50's and am thinking of trying this out.

    https://www.shurtape.com/cloth-duct-.../stucco/pe-444
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	stucco 2.jpg 
Views:	370 
Size:	83.2 KB 
ID:	1117445
    I tried this, the adhesion is very nice and it does come up clean. However the tape itself is very soft (easy to damage with tire irons, etc) and not very strong. Maybe two layers would work okay, but I wasn't as happy with it as I thought I would be.

  134. #334
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,021
    Quote Originally Posted by ShadowGLI View Post
    I ended up purchasing the wider version of the same tape I previously purchased (had to overlap it and I didn't like that (never leaked though). The 1" version fit the inner width of my 28mm rims perfect and sealed incredibly well. It also was great how easy the old tape peeled off with no residue. and for the price/prime shipping its a win-win
    This might be a winner, given that it's compliant and doesn't leave residue. Will just need a long term report! (hint)!
    SB4.5 XX1/XTR
    Parlee Chebacco
    Cannondale Black Di2/disk (roadie)
    '07 575 XT
    SB95a*
    SB95c*
    ASRc*
    SB5c*
    * retired

  135. #335
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    OP, since you are double layering the kapton, what are your thoughts on just using the 2 mil version?
    '18 banshee rune

  136. #336
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    anyone tried these?
    https://www.kaptontape.com/blue_masking_tapes.php

    https://www.kaptontape.com/Green_Masking_Tapes.php

    They look like the powdercoating tapes mentioned in this thread.
    '18 banshee rune

  137. #337
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    70
    I've found that T-Rex tape is very similar to Gorilla tape but does not leave residue when removed. It's not 100% airtight though so I usually topped up my pressure before each ride. One wrap is 20 grams.

    Much easier to use than the tesa tape which in a PINA to get to conform to the center channel of the tim.

  138. #338
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    FWIW: I use two layers of 1 mil Kapton tape on my road bike, tubed and tubeless running ~100psi. I use one layer on mtbs. On a set of wider carbon mtb rims the tape only covers the holes, not the entire width of the rim bed. I check that there are no burrs or excessively sharp edges on the spoke holes.
    Do the math.

  139. #339
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    Does the Kapton tape have any stretch?

    What's the difference between the green and the red linked above?
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  140. #340
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    What's the secret for getting the kapton tape down without any wrinkles? Or are some wrinkles ok?
    '18 banshee rune

  141. #341
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Posts
    202
    Quote Originally Posted by Loch View Post
    I tried this, the adhesion is very nice and it does come up clean. However the tape itself is very soft (easy to damage with tire irons, etc) and not very strong. Maybe two layers would work okay, but I wasn't as happy with it as I thought I would be.
    Thanks for the heads up Loch! I bought this for wide rims to only find out later the rims was already taped. Still a great tape for around the house though!

  142. #342
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    My thoughts are NO Wrinkles. Keep it stretched tight when applying. This applies to any tape being applied.
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  143. #343
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    It think it was posted here to NOT stretch kapton tape very tight. I'm having a hell of a time getting it into the deep center channel (wtb i25) without any wrinkles. Any tips from anyone who've used it?
    '18 banshee rune

  144. #344
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    3,483
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    It think it was posted here to NOT stretch kapton tape very tight. I'm having a hell of a time getting it into the deep center channel (wtb i25) without any wrinkles. Any tips from anyone who've used it?
    I'm using kapton tape on WTB i23 rims. There will be some minor wrinkles and maybe even a few bubbles here & there if you're unlucky. I found that if I press everything down and smooth it out as best as I can with my fingers then everything works out well. It's not always the prettiest but it seals well and so far I haven't had any issues in 3 years or so of use. On my WTB rims, it holds air and stays stuck down better than Stan's or Gorrila tape. And yeah, don't yank it too tight or it'll rip when you poke the valve hole.

  145. #345
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    33,264
    Tyvek tape on 65mm fat rims.

    I use it on my 90mm rims too, but I use two passes.

    Doesn't get any lighter, and it seals great.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-16832406_10101056009286118_7269716387457239928_n.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-16832389_10101056016346968_816478383181178031_n.jpg
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  146. #346
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    I'm using kapton tape on WTB i23 rims. There will be some minor wrinkles and maybe even a few bubbles here & there if you're unlucky. I found that if I press everything down and smooth it out as best as I can with my fingers then everything works out well. It's not always the prettiest but it seals well and so far I haven't had any issues in 3 years or so of use. On my WTB rims, it holds air and stays stuck down better than Stan's or Gorrila tape. And yeah, don't yank it too tight or it'll rip when you poke the valve hole.

    Good to know. what im really having trouble with is not getting bubbles trapped between the 2 layers of tape, as it sticks better to itself than to the rim.Right now tehres a tube in it at 60 psi to really push it down flat.
    btw i have better luck when I cut an x for the valve hole instead of poking a hole, with the lines on the x at 45 degree angles to the rim. Never had the (wtb) tape tear with that method.
    '18 banshee rune

  147. #347
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    i got a roll of tyvek tape to compare to the kapton and OMG its so easy to stick down good in the rim channel.
    is 1 layer good for mtb (sub 28 psi) with the tyvek or am i supposed to do 2 layers?
    '18 banshee rune

  148. #348
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    Well this week I experimented with kapton and tyvek. Tyvek for the win! I had trouble sticking the kapton down into the channel (wtb i25) without wrinkles or bubbles. The tyvek installs much easier for me. It's stickier and more stretchy. Sealed up fine with one layer and didn't lose psi overbite. Ride around the street and all is well, trail test soon.
    Ps. White lightning clean streak cleaned the rim much better than alcohol. That may have been the problem sticking down the kapton.
    '18 banshee rune

  149. #349
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    33,264
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Well this week I experimented with kapton and tyvek. Tyvek for the win! I had trouble sticking the kapton down into the channel (wtb i25) without wrinkles or bubbles. The tyvek installs much easier for me. It's stickier and more stretchy. Sealed up fine with one layer and didn't lose psi overbite. Ride around the street and all is well, trail test soon.
    Ps. White lightning clean streak cleaned the rim much better than alcohol. That may have been the problem sticking down the kapton.
    Because the wheel in the pic above is my race setup/backup, I haven't added any sealant to it. It's held air for 4 days now with just the one pass of Tyvek. I'll add sealant when I use it on the trails, but impressive that it holds air just fine with nothing else.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  150. #350
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    20
    Does anybody know what Whisky Parts Co uses for their tape, or what it is most similar to?

  151. #351
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    311
    for arc 40 rims will the stans 39mm rim tape work fine? can i use a narrower tape or does the size have to stay close to the width of the rim?

  152. #352
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow poke View Post
    for arc 40 rims will the stans 39mm rim tape work fine? can i use a narrower tape or does the size have to stay close to the width of the rim?
    If you use a good tape and get good adhesion (on a clean rim), you need only cover the spoke holes, so a very narrow tape can be sufficient. Wider tape can offer more protection against sealant seeping under the tape, but it can also get pulled aside if the tire drags the tape while the bead begins to lock into place.

    I prefer to use narrow tape and switch to wider tape only in the rare case that I need more protection against sealant seepage under the tape or if I need to help a poorly shaped bead seal against the rim's bead lip.

  153. #353
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    311
    thanks- that 39mm tape is expensive. The rims are new so hopefully there shouldn't be any problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    If you use a good tape and get good adhesion (on a clean rim), you need only cover the spoke holes, so a very narrow tape can be sufficient. Wider tape can offer more protection against sealant seeping under the tape, but it can also get pulled aside if the tire drags the tape while the bead begins to lock into place.

    I prefer to use narrow tape and switch to wider tape only in the rare case that I need more protection against sealant seepage under the tape or if I need to help a poorly shaped bead seal against the rim's bead lip.

  154. #354
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by Slow poke View Post
    thanks- that 39mm tape is expensive. The rims are new so hopefully there shouldn't be any problem.
    Give them a quick wipe wiith isopropanol or acetone, just to be sure!

  155. #355
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    941
    I tried the Kapton tape. Question ( and this really applies to all tapes ). Do you try to push the tape down into the spokebed? The first time I did it, I put a little tension on it and it really got stuck to the sides, leaving the middle totally suspended. This seemed like an easy way to puncture the tape later ... on a second try, I tried to push down the tape into the middle channel/spoke bed. That seems better. Is that the conventional wisdom? My only issue was it didn't go down as smooth/clean, with a few wrinkles here and there. Hoping they don't cause problems...

  156. #356
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,021
    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    I tried the Kapton tape. Question ( and this really applies to all tapes ). Do you try to push the tape down into the spokebed? The first time I did it, I put a little tension on it and it really got stuck to the sides, leaving the middle totally suspended. This seemed like an easy way to puncture the tape later ... on a second try, I tried to push down the tape into the middle channel/spoke bed. That seems better. Is that the conventional wisdom? My only issue was it didn't go down as smooth/clean, with a few wrinkles here and there. Hoping they don't cause problems...
    This is a FWIW answer...Kapton is very strong, thin, and impervious to just about anything. Problem is it has very little compliance. I think if you could get the width right, where you don't need high compliance, then you'd be good to go. However, you DON'T want wrinkles in any tape because you can expose the adhesive to the sealant, and that will eventually give you a failure.
    SB4.5 XX1/XTR
    Parlee Chebacco
    Cannondale Black Di2/disk (roadie)
    '07 575 XT
    SB95a*
    SB95c*
    ASRc*
    SB5c*
    * retired

  157. #357
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    This is a FWIW answer...Kapton is very strong, thin, and impervious to just about anything. Problem is it has very little compliance. I think if you could get the width right, where you don't need high compliance, then you'd be good to go. However, you DON'T want wrinkles in any tape because you can expose the adhesive to the sealant, and that will eventually give you a failure.
    Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed. Anything less than this perfect storm of tape destruction should be fine.

    Wrinkles, however, are definitely not fine. If sealant can seep under and dissolve, lift, or otherwise affect the glue, you'll be lucky if it holds air for long.

  158. #358
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    322
    I use common garden brown carton tape and turps to remove adhesive residues. I've never met one it wouldn't remove from contact adhesive to stickers except duct tape, it does leave it's own residue which is easily cleaned with prepsol, alchahol, meths etc.

  159. #359
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    941
    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed. Anything less than this perfect storm of tape destruction should be fine.

    Wrinkles, however, are definitely not fine. If sealant can seep under and dissolve, lift, or otherwise affect the glue, you'll be lucky if it holds air for long.
    copy - thanks for both answers R-M-R and simplemind.

    I just didn't like the "suspended" look of the tape where it was only adhered to the high points and not touching the rim bed at the spokes at all. Maybe a more careful application would yield no wrinkles.

  160. #360
    Land of the 230+
    Reputation: GuitsBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    2,532
    Quote Originally Posted by R-M-R View Post
    Agreed. The only failure I've seen over the spoke holes was on a road rim (100 - 120 psi) with electrical tape and the rim had huge burrs around the spoke bed.
    I have personally blown out a spoke hole twice with single layer 8896 tape, which is pretty strong stuff. This was on a pair of easton XR wheels a few years back. Was riding maybe 26 psi rear at the time.

  161. #361
    West Chester, PA
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    4,763
    Just had to change the blue 3M tape on my road bike wheels. Damn stuff left 100% of the adhesive on the rims when I pulled it off. Used up an entire can of goof-off while cleaning.

  162. #362
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Posts
    614
    I just did two carbon wheels (i29, i39) in 20mm Kapton tape. Brilliant stuff. Weighs nothing, sticks well, easy to apply, and very strong. It doesn't cover the entire center channel, but I don't think it needs to. I also bought Maxi 248 3.3mil 1". Didn't like that quite as much. The extra thickness and width just made it harder to place. Still a fine tape, though.

    ENVE sent me a roll of their tubeless tape. Looks like 1" Gorilla tape. The roll is 105g, so around 50g per wheel. It's terrifically durable. I've mounted and unmounted tires twenty times on one of my rims. The tape still looks new. Unaffected by sealant. Wouldn't want to try taking it off, though.

  163. #363
    damned rocks...
    Reputation: Aglo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    2,339
    Report on Kapton tape.

    I want to convert my father's wheelset to tubeless, and also find an option to my Flows Mk3 with Stans tape in case I damage the tape.

    So I ordered 100m of 30mm wide Kapton tape.

    I also have a set of carbon rims with no internal nipple holes, so I decided to test on them the tape, because if something go wrong nothing bad will happen.
    And I'm glad I did.

    The photos were taken more or less 3 months after I install the tape on my carbon rims.

    Tubeless Tape Thread-img_9091.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-image001.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-image002.jpgTubeless Tape Thread-image005.jpg

    I always tape wall to wall, and as you can see in the last photo, the only part of the tape that did not melted was what was under the tire bed, everything else was either gelatinous or rubber like.

    I use homebrew sealant, BAMFS v3, and this is the first time I see something like this happen.
    Last edited by Aglo; 04-22-2017 at 04:24 PM.

  164. #364
    Live Free & Ride
    Reputation: NH Mtbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,534
    Also trying to decide on the "optimal" width for rim tape on new i30 carbon rims. I can choose between 25, 27 and 29mm rim tape at the BHS. Is bead to bead really the best way to go on coverage?

    Rim Tape & VeloPlugs
    17 Fuel EX 9.9 (in progress)
    19 FM 279 carbon gravel
    17 Stache 29+
    14 GT Zaskar 100 9r

    https://kettleheadbrewing.com/

  165. #365
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    aglo not sure what happened there.. Might be the ammonia in your homebrew? Who knows.. I do homebrew and never had that happen. Strange.

  166. #366
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    109
    Bontrager TLR rim tape (blue) works fine and is very easy to use, I use it on Line Pro 40.
    Plastic Bontrager TLR rim strips are just great, super easy to install and reliable, but are rim specific. I use them with Mustang rims. The only issue - soapy water is a must, and it usually takes me 3-4 pump air blows in a row to have a tire fully set. After I verify that it is set, I deflate it, add sealant, and inflate again. Never add sealant until you verify that the tire is fully set!

  167. #367
    damned rocks...
    Reputation: Aglo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    2,339
    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    aglo not sure what happened there.. Might be the ammonia in your homebrew? Who knows.. I do homebrew and never had that happen. Strange.
    My best guess is that the tape is counterfeit, otherwise other people with homebrew would have the same problem. Unless no one else is using the tape and ammonia based homebrew.

  168. #368
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    109
    How do you guys know that all ingredients of your recipes, for example ammonia, is chemically compatible with your tire compounds? And how do you know it will not evaporate quickly?

  169. #369
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  170. #370
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Yep, sorry, posted in a wrong thread.

  171. #371
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rey Recinto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    229
    Kapton tape is almost identical to Spank/Fratelli tape....but I might be mistaken...

  172. #372
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    Kapton tape I use with Stan's (ammonia) has held up for years. The polyimide film and silicone adhesive is pretty impervious.
    Do the math.

  173. #373
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    1
    I recently got back into mountain biking and had my first experience with a leaky tubeless setup. I did what I thought was the easiest: picked up some yellow Stan's tape and proceeded to botch the whole procedure. I mean, it's better than it was (I can at least ride) but the 30mm wide tape was hard to work with on a deep asymmetrical rim. I found this thread through Google while researching. But onto the real point of this post... be aware that the Maxi and Kapton tapes have a shelf life! 3M says 36 months at 70 degrees and 50% humidity. This is before use so I have no idea what that means once you install them - although it sounds like Louisiana or Florida may not be the best environment. It's cheap enough that I don't mind throwing it in the trash when it gets old but it's something to note for people thinking that buying a big roll means they never need to buy another. Also, I don't imagine that anything designed for powder coating was made for long term durability as the install/remove turnaround time is usually very quick. That stuff really only needs to do its job for a few days at the most. At least Tyvek is designed for semi-permanent use in hot, wet conditions. These are just observations from reading manufacturer literature! Real world experience like this thread is invaluable for beginners like me.

    Troy

  174. #374
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    I've come to the conclusion that tyvek tape is the best for this application. Cheap, easy to apply, strong, waterproof, and as far as I can tell quite permanent. Heck it's designed to be weatherproofing tape

  175. #375
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    49
    I've just done my EX511 rim in "kapton" tape and really struggled. It's full of wrinkles and I think a few air bubbles. The first issue was the lack of stickiness. It didn't stick (at all) to the aluminium. I had to get round a quarter of the wheel before I could get some purchase to hold it and I ended up doing 2 full laps because it does stick to itself very well.

    I'm not sure how relevant this is but my "kapton" tape was actually labelled "koptan" and I bought it from this ebay auction: 0.5/10/20/30/40/50mm 100ft Heat Resistant High Temperature Polyimide Tape Hot

    The stans I had previously went on much more easily, stuck much better (although the rest of the roll lost it's stickiness pretty quick!), and never caused any issues. This was a lot cheaper though and given that it comes in 30mm to match the rim I thought it was worth a shot. I guess we'll see if it seals up and what it looks like in another month or so.

  176. #376
    Formerly PaintPeelinPbody
    Reputation: PHeller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    2,598
    Any updates here?

    Anybody know if Home Depot carries the Tyvek tape in narrower widths?
    Work - Utility GIS Analyst
    Party - 2019 Guerrilla Gravity Revved Trail Pistol Sz 3

  177. #377
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    115
    Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:

    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...bxgy_328_img_2

    Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.

    Had a little trouble taking off the clear Gorilla tape that was on there before, but isopropyl alcohol and a hair dryer did the trick.

  178. #378
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    60

    Trimming Tubeless Tape

    For trimming tubeless rim tape to width I have had great results using a balsa stripper. I set the width so I cut from the side that will be wasted so I can Perl it off as I cut deeper. Nice even edge and reasonably safe. Costs $8-12 if memory serves. Replacement blades are xacto, cheap and readily available.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Tubeless Tape Thread-imag2132_1.jpg  

    2008 Kona Kula 2-9 SS 2010 SWorks Epic
    Riding trails you maintain is more fun.

  179. #379
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by sciencemike View Post
    Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:

    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...bxgy_328_img_2

    Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.
    The material element of this tape feels a lot like Stan's/Tesa to me other than being transparent green. It does not stretch much and is a little bit thicker than the 3M/Scotch 889x tapes. I'll try this when I retape my rims. I ordered some Kapton and the thinness of the tape and the stretch make me wonder what pressures they can handle...

  180. #380
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    8,460
    Quote Originally Posted by ceugene View Post
    ...I ordered some Kapton and the thinness of the tape and the stretch make me wonder what pressures they can handle...
    I run road tubeless at 100psi with two layers. One layer on mtb rims. The tape is 0.001" thick with 0.002" of adhesive. The stuff has held up over two years so far on carbon and aluminum rims. I do check there are no burs on the holes in the rim bed, and with any tape application, ensure the rim bed is scrupulously clean so the tape will adhere well and keep sealed.

    I've applied blue strapping tape, Stan's, Gorilla and other tapes and have removed them after use. They all work, but Kapton remains my personal preference.
    Do the math.

  181. #381
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by sciencemike View Post
    Did my rims with the green "powder coating masking tape" mentioned earlier:

    https://www.amazon.com/72-Yds-Coatin...bxgy_328_img_2

    Worked great, went on easier than Stan's tape, seems to be holding up well (I gave 'em two full wraps). 1" fit fine in a 27mm ID rim.
    Wrapped my front rim with the green powder coating masking tape. It conforms better to the center channel of the rim than Stan's. On my roll the adhesive is not as strong and doesn't stick to carbon that well, but that isn't an issue when wrapped twice tightly. I had only two small bubbles near the end of my wrapping job and managed to squeeze them out completely. This was by far the cleanest taping job I've ever done.

    Highly recommended based on initial impressions. Will update if something goes wrong.

  182. #382
    Formerly PaintPeelinPbody
    Reputation: PHeller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    2,598
    I had a lot of trouble centering with 1" tape Tape Master Green PC Masking Tape in my i25 rims. Luckily it's cheap and plentiful so I'll get lots of practice with it.

    I either with they made a 1.25" width to more easily go hook-to-hook or perhaps I should go with .75" and just cover the center channel.
    Work - Utility GIS Analyst
    Party - 2019 Guerrilla Gravity Revved Trail Pistol Sz 3

  183. #383
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    34
    I'm going with the schwalbe rim tape priced at $45 CAD a 10m roll...

    no, I'm kidding, this is just a rip off... and I boycott schwalbe from now on...
    seriously if they feel they can price a tape at $45 they might as well screw their customer all across the board...

    Will try to find Tyvek tape... but in canada everything is hard to get... it's like third world when time to buy stuffs....

  184. #384
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    11
    Screw taping. I had a slow leak after I taped my rim with gorilla clear. I would have preferred strapping tape but in canada it's hard to get. Gorilla clear was a disaster. It started peeling after a few days. When I took it off most of the glue stayed on the rim.

    If you need to remove old tape and glue I recommend mineral spirits and Scotch-Brite No-Scratch Scour Pad. Still took almost an hour but it completely cleaned that crap off.

    After dealing with the mess left by the tape I decided to try the "ghetto tube". I got a skinny 20" schwalbe. I did not even split it. It sat right in the bead. I pinched the back of the valve and cut a small hole. No compressor need to inflate it. No trimming need on the outside as opposed to the split tube. Impossible to burp by hand.

    So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape? Only reason I can see is weight. Tube is 90 grams. I guess I could reduce it by about 40 if I split it and cut it.

  185. #385
    mtbr member
    Reputation: J.B. Weld's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    13,445
    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape?
    I've never seen it as a bother, I bought a $10 roll of Stans tape 2 years ago and it's been flawless on my wheels so far. Took less than 5 minutes to install and I still have enough left over for another wheelset.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  186. #386
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    I've never seen it as a bother, I bought a $10 roll of Stans tape 2 years ago and it's been flawless on my wheels so far. Took less than 5 minutes to install and I still have enough left over for another wheelset.
    Dunno maybe it varies from rim to rim. Profile, paint, resonance. Tape does not like having the tire removed. I'm glad I did the tube method, because I found the conti race sports have a leaky sidewall and apparently they have to be cleaned for sealant to work. I guess my first tape job was good, but it got screwed up when I took the tire off to check why it leaks. Now I would have had to do it all over again to clean the tire.

  187. #387
    H2o-Bar
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    105
    I just swapped out my rear with new rubber yesterday . I had used the Green Maxi 248 1" tape this spring with Stan's. Most of the adhesive on the tape had disintegrated due to the Stan's. Guess I was lucky to have had a flat since the tape was in such crappy condition there's no way I'd try and mount another Tubeless tire with the older green tape.
    Back to Grorilla Tape (heavy but I've had Never given me any problems except after cleanup ).

  188. #388
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    Screw taping.

    So, what am I missing? Why bother with tape? Only reason I can see is weight. Tube is 90 grams. I guess I could reduce it by about 40 if I split it and cut it.
    Just google "ghetto tubeless dangerous" or any combo of that.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/...se-761314.html

    I am not saying this will happen to you but burping with ghetto tubeless can lead to bad things.

  189. #389
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    11
    Tape burps way easier than 20" tube.

  190. #390
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    7 month review and comparison. One wheel with kapton, the other with tyvek. The tyvek tape is still stuck down well, tire removals dont pull it off. No leaks or any problems.
    the kapton developed a slow leak, looks like it lifted up/got sealant underneath in a few spots. Pulled it off and retaped with tyvek. Everyone, tyvek is the way to go.
    '18 banshee rune

  191. #391
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    328
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    7 month review and comparison. One wheel with kapton, the other with tyvek. The tyvek tape is still stuck down well, tire removals dont pull it off. No leaks or any problems.
    the kapton developed a slow leak, looks like it lifted up/got sealant underneath in a few spots. Pulled it off and retaped with tyvek. Everyone, tyvek is the way to go.
    I have a roll of Tyvek but have only tinkered a bit by taping an old rim. Seemed to go on well, very smooth.

    What sealant did you use, dwyooaaj?

    Bob

  192. #392
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    11
    Anyone find tyvek for sale in Canada? Here tuck tape(red tape) is usually used for sheathing.

  193. #393
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    6,349

    Not a one size fits all approach...

    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    Dunno maybe it varies from rim to rim. Profile, paint, resonance. Tape does not like having the tire removed. I'm glad I did the tube method, because I found the conti race sports have a leaky sidewall and apparently they have to be cleaned for sealant to work. I guess my first tape job was good, but it got screwed up when I took the tire off to check why it leaks. Now I would have had to do it all over again to clean the tire.


    Yep. Approach does vary from rim to rim, and even depends on the tirs bead. A few variables include...

    Aluminum or carbon. Channel width and depth - a narrow, deep channel can get away with a narrow strip of tape deep in the channel. A wide shallow channel and you're better to tape full width of rim or tape will peel when removing tires. Stans rims are smooth, and my DT ex471s are rough and different tapes adhere to each one differently. Some tapes won't fill a deep channel as they lack flexibility. Etc...

    Tires. Some have very tight beads, like Schwalbes, and they are more likely to peel tape up in removal. I often tape rims using those tires differently than say a rim that will be getting a slightly looser bead like a Maxxis. As we all know, some tires set up better than others. Maxxis and Specialized are a snap. Kenda use to be good but have not used them in years. Schwalbes are a pain and are very hard to remove.


    Clean rims first with acetone.

    Make sure inside of rim is dry and not sloshing with old sealant or other juices.

    After using quite a few flavors of tape I've found black Gorilla to still be the most versatile and it works well on all rims, though maybe not the best on every rim. Stans tape does work great on Stans rims but not so great on other rims.

    Removing Gorilla tape leaves little residue if the rim is warm. The bits that remain are very easily removed with a generous application of elbow grease - though that is getting harder to find given our general male populations' testosterone deficiency.

    A small but very likable constant is my DH rim of choice, DT EX471s, take up the 1" black Gorrilla perfectly with no trimming.

    Home brew sealant is my favorite, but that's a different thread.


    I've been doing tubeless for almost 15 years and am still finding tricks. There is a learning curve.

  194. #394
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,565
    Quote Originally Posted by pedalinbob View Post
    I have a roll of Tyvek but have only tinkered a bit by taping an old rim. Seemed to go on well, very smooth.

    What sealant did you use, dwyooaaj?

    Bob
    stans and/or truckerco cream
    '18 banshee rune

  195. #395
    mtbr member
    Reputation: J.B. Weld's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    13,445
    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    I've been doing tubeless for almost 15 years and am still finding tricks. There is a learning curve.
    My learning curve involved researching and buying rims that TR tires would mount on easily, no trickery necessary.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  196. #396
    Giant Reign Advanced 1
    Reputation: ka81ua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    640
    Mavic en 827
    27mm inner d

    28 or 29 mm tape to use??

    Tesa 4289
    OK

  197. #397
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    146
    :updated original post:

  198. #398
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    :updated original post:
    What?
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

  199. #399
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    320
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What?
    OP updated their original post.

  200. #400
    Magically Delicious
    Reputation: Cleared2land's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    8,245
    Quote Originally Posted by combfilter View Post
    :updated original post:
    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    What?
    Quote Originally Posted by literally View Post
    OP updated their original post.
    You're making assumptions Literally...Nope the original 2016 post doesn't appeared to have been updated and the OP was not Combfilter.

    Help me out here...
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

    Work Truck - Dassault Falcon 7X

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. tubeless rim tape
    By jrafter in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 01-10-2018, 02:04 PM
  2. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-09-2014, 06:39 PM
  3. Tubeless tape idea.
    By Vistacruise in forum Fat bikes
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 08-15-2013, 08:59 AM
  4. Tubeless & Rim Tape
    By jarango in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-13-2013, 11:34 PM
  5. Stans Tape. Tubeless tape. Info needed.
    By MasterOMayhem in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-01-2012, 12:55 PM

Members who have read this thread: 222

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.