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  1. #1
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    Straight gauge 2mm spokes on carbon build

    I'm building my first wheels. It's a personal challenge / see what I can do / do something new / can I pull off a budget carbon wheel build. I've got $622 into it including shipping. They're just barely less weight than my Ibis 738 wheels published weight, as I've not been able to weigh them because they're still in service.

    - Light bicycle rims RM650BC13
    - Powerway hubs 110mm & 148mm, these are what Ibis private labels on the Ibis 738 wheels that came on the bike and I've put them through hell (4 seasons riding, lots of mud, dust, etc) so bought them again.
    - SAPIM LEADER J BEND BLACK 14G
    - SAPIM POLYAX 14MM 14 GAUGE

    Cutting the rim box for recycling last night I find a pamphlet in the box. To quote, "DO NOT use the straight gauge 2mm or thicker in diameter spoke when building the wheel. Doing so will void the warranty. Straight Gauge spokes are too stiff to build with LB carbon rims and can cause the rim to crack prematurely. The thickest spokes that can be used on our rims are double butted 2/1.8/2mm"

    I googled this and only found one other reference to this by one other wheel building site. I'm on the fence between buying new spokes and a proper tension gauge or simply buying a proper tension gauge and going on the low end of tension.

    What do you guys think? TIA.
    -I don't like my username.

  2. #2
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    They aren't the only ones who specifically warn against straight gauge spokes and say they will void the warranty (can't remember who else I have read that from). Get new spokes. Sapim Race are cheap from lkspoke aka childhood_dreams.

  3. #3
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    Straight gauge spokes suck, if they don't cause rim cracks around the spoke holes or pullthrough failures, they will fatigue and break prematurely. Get some Sapim Race spokes.

  4. #4
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    Thanks. lkspoke has been contacted, after some help and guidance spokes are being ordered.
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  5. #5
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    As the wheel rotates spokes go thru a detention and re tensioning cycle. With Dbl. butted spokes less of the changes in tension will be transmitted to the rim and hub but will be absorbed in the smaller diameter section of spokes. There will also be less movement of the nipple is the rim spoke holes. Hope that helps as to a possible reason they don't want to use straight gauge spokes.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DHRracer View Post
    As the wheel rotates spokes go thru a detention and re tensioning cycle. With Dbl. butted spokes less of the changes in tension will be transmitted to the rim and hub but will be absorbed in the smaller diameter section of spokes. There will also be less movement of the nipple is the rim spoke holes. Hope that helps as to a possible reason they don't want to use straight gauge spokes.
    Thanks. It honestly blows my mind that a 10% reduction in diameter would have such a significant effect, but here's material science for you.
    -I don't like my username.

  7. #7
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    It's a fact of life, no straigh spokes should ever be use for mtb.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MovinUp View Post
    Thanks. It honestly blows my mind that a 10% reduction in diameter would have such a significant effect, but here's material science for you.
    Instead of the diameter, think of the cross-sectional area difference, and that a significant portion of the total length is the smaller gauge. And a lot of us run spokes that are 2.0--1.5--2.0 or the bladed equivalent. It really makes a difference.

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