Squorx Nipple Failures?- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RickBullottaPA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    272

    New question here. Squorx Nipple Failures?

    For some background, I've built about 30-40 wheelsets, mostly all of them MTB or fatbike wheels, so I have some experience (and I build a good wheel!). On a recent MTB 27.5 plus build (I9 hydra hubs and Whiskey carbon rims), I used DT Squorx nipples (on DT Comp spokes). Spoke tensions were normal range, nothing special, and I used Whiskey's spoke washers. I love the ease of building with Squorx nipples, but I've had the heads shear off nearly a half dozen of the rear spokes on this wheelset (some drive side, some non-drive). Double checked tension after the fix. All good.

    It's starting to piss me off, not so much because I've ruined a ride but just the inconvience of repairing and retaping.

    Any thoughts on this? Anyone with similar experiences? Recommendations?


  2. #2
    Wanna ride bikes?
    Reputation: *OneSpeed*'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    7,183
    Obvious question: are the spokes too short? Can you post pics of the broken nipples? Have you checked to see that the spoke is long enough to reach the end of the nipple? How big is the rider? How many spokes? Are the spoke holes angled and/or offset? How old is the wheel?

    Why not switch to brass? You'll never have another issue with broken nipples. Plus, with a carbon rim and aluminum nipples on a tubeless setup, it's only a matter of time before corrosion sets in and nipples start breaking anyway.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RickBullottaPA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    272
    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Obvious question: are the spokes too short? Can you post pics of the broken nipples? Have you checked to see that the spoke is long enough to reach the end of the nipple? How big is the rider? How many spokes? Are the spoke holes angled and/or offset? How old is the wheel?

    Why not switch to brass? You'll never have another issue with broken nipples. Plus, with a carbon rim and aluminum nipples on a tubeless setup, it's only a matter of time before corrosion sets in and nipples start breaking anyway.
    Spokes are perfect length (I generally use DT's calculator), 170 lb rider, 32 spokes, no offset. Pretty standard stuff. There's no corrosion on the nipples or the spoke washers. Zero.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Ottoreni's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,109
    Novice wheelbuilder here (4 wheel builds). Three of the wheelsets were built with Sapim alloy spokes. Last wheel, the one I have most building experience, I used DT Squorx nipples. The rear wheel broke a spoke exactly as you described. I switched to all Sapim spokes, did not want to deal with the whole hassle of untaping and retaping the wheel.

    Some riding buddies thought I was over-reacting, but beading your post, I am happy I did this.
    You cannot go against nature, because when you do, its part of nature too.

  5. #5
    mtbpete
    Reputation: changingleaf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,270
    In my experience DT Swiss alloy nipples are weaker than Sapim alloy nipples. The washers may also be digging into the nipple making the weaker, but that's just a guess.

    Also, if they head sheared off AND the spoke came out then the spoke needs to be longer.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    863
    Are you talking about the Sqourx drive breaking off? I had this happen just recently while going over my wheels. A real PIA! It doesn't effect the spoke to nipple interface but the only way to turn the nipple is with the square drive which if the nipple is tight or sticky you can round the nipple off even with a four sided spoke key. I had this happen and wound up cutting the spoke and replacing both spoke and nipple.
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  7. #7
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    6,195
    I've had quite a few of the Squorx nips break on wheels that were not old. I will not have a wheel built with them.

    Aluminum rim wheels need truing too often, if ridden hard, to play around with anything less than brass nips IMO. I've rounded off and cracked too many alloy nips through the years. Carbon rim wheels last a long time for me. While they rarely need truing I wouldn't trust an alloy nip to stand the test of time like a brass nip.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,922
    I use brass Squorx w/ zero issues. Not a fan of alloy nipples in any configuration.

    Are you greasing the nipple ball interface? Pretty sure DT recommends this in their build requirements especially w/ their PBR washers..

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: WHALENARD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    4,281
    Where did you get the nipples?
    Given an experience I recently had with cx-ray's I can't help but wonder if there is a growing counterfeit spoke/nipple issue.
    Last edited by WHALENARD; 11-19-2019 at 03:03 PM.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  10. #10
    And He was Not
    Reputation: Enoch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    1,668
    Quote Originally Posted by changingleaf View Post

    Also, if they head sheared off AND the spoke came out then the spoke needs to be longer.
    ^^^^^^
    THIS...

    It is very difficult to see how far you have the spoke engaged in a sporx nipple. I usually take a pick tool and feel for the end of the spoke to make sure on every nipple.

    I would imagine if you were using a 12mm sporx nipple and the washer on a carbon rim, you would have very little of the drive flats showing on the nipple so external adjustments would be almost impossible. Anytime I'm dealing with carbon I use nipple that are 2 mm longer to help clear the extra stack height carbon adds to the rim thickness.
    The Truth is out there. Here it isThe TRUTH

  11. #11
    Keep on Rockin...
    Reputation: Miker J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    6,195
    Quote Originally Posted by keen View Post
    I use brass Squorx w/ zero issues. Not a fan of alloy nipples in any configuration.

    Are you greasing the nipple ball interface? Pretty sure DT recommends this in their build requirements especially w/ their PBR washers..

    Hmmm. Didn't know they came in that flavor. Will have to look into it. Wonder if they supply rims with the brass or alloy. Probably alloy.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    44
    Yeah, same here. Had three nipples failing while disassembling a wheel. Did the grease thing originally. I think I will give brass nipples a go next time.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rngspnr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    863
    A lot of DT Swiss rims come with alloy Squorx nipples and washers. I use anti seize on the spoke threads and and use Phil Wood tenacious oil on the nipples when I build wheels. The Squorx nipples are fine until you need to make adjustments later.
    2016 Evil Following V1
    2016 Dartmoor Primal+

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,922
    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Hmmm. Didn't know they came in that flavor. Will have to look into it. Wonder if they supply rims with the brass or alloy. Probably alloy.
    My DT rims came w/ silver alloy Squorx - I wanted black & brass. When I did my first build I readily found black brass "Pro Head" Squorx. My latest build I could only find the "Pro lock". I really don't care for the locking agent so I applied grease on the spoke threads during the build.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    1,211
    Quote Originally Posted by keen View Post
    I use brass Squorx w/ zero issues. Not a fan of alloy nipples in any configuration.
    You do understand that brass is an alloy of at least two metals, right?

  16. #16
    Location: 10 ft from Hell Moderator
    Reputation: life behind bars's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    4,428
    I quit using them the aluminum Squorx nipples.
    I ncredibly
    M yopic
    B ackstabbing
    A ssholes

  17. #17
    Wanna ride bikes?
    Reputation: *OneSpeed*'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    7,183
    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    A lot of DT Swiss rims come with alloy Squorx nipples and washers. I use anti seize on the spoke threads and and use Phil Wood tenacious oil on the nipples when I build wheels. The Squorx nipples are fine until you need to make adjustments later.
    Well then that would make them shit wouldn't it?
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    3,058
    Quote Originally Posted by twodownzero View Post
    You do understand that brass is an alloy of at least two metals, right?
    I always love this comment. Someone has to make it every time a discussion like this has taken place since bicycle forums were invented.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    Ole
    Ole is online now
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    1,177
    Same problem here, the torx interface shared off, and then when I tried a regular spoke wrench that part of the nipple detoriorated as well. I have built well over 1000 high end wheels, and this has never happened before with other nipples. It's like the Squorx-nipples are made from clay, super fragile. Have gone over to Sapim Doublesquare for most builds now. I usually run 3-4mm longer spokes than what I would with a regular nipple, that way most of the load sits above the nipple head instead of under it.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RickBullottaPA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    272
    Quote Originally Posted by Enoch View Post
    ^^^^^^
    THIS...

    It is very difficult to see how far you have the spoke engaged in a sporx nipple. I usually take a pick tool and feel for the end of the spoke to make sure on every nipple.

    I would imagine if you were using a 12mm sporx nipple and the washer on a carbon rim, you would have very little of the drive flats showing on the nipple so external adjustments would be almost impossible. Anytime I'm dealing with carbon I use nipple that are 2 mm longer to help clear the extra stack height carbon adds to the rim thickness.
    Plenty of the flats showing (Whiskey rims in this case). Spoke depth in the nipple is perfect. It just seems that the heads of the Squorx nipples like to pop off. On the plus side, it saves the spokes! It's only a pain in the ass because I have to retape the rim every time. But I've actually yet to break a single spoke on this wheelset.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-19-2019, 05:33 PM
  2. Squorx nipple question
    By urmb in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 10-22-2018, 08:47 AM
  3. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-21-2018, 03:29 PM
  4. Rim without nipple holes - broken nipple
    By C-kaae in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-12-2015, 09:08 AM
  5. Ransom shock pump failures
    By kwarwick in forum Scott Sports
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-11-2011, 03:21 AM

Members who have read this thread: 104

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.