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Thread: Spokes

  1. #1
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    Spokes

    What's the best spoke out there for a combo of durability and weight savings on a carbon hoop build?

  2. #2
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    You need more specifics on usage, specs, priorities, weight. High quality spokes from DT or Sapim honestly the quality of build makes more a diff until you get to fringes. Its been pretty rare for me to see spoke failures short of crashes, dérailleur mishaps or corrosion.

  3. #3
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    I'd go with just about any double butted spoke. They have strong thread and bend ends and a thinner center section that provides more elasticity. For mtbs, round is great. Sapim Race or equivalent is a great choice, IMO. I shoot for 125kgf tension.
    Do the math.

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    Sapim Lasers for me.

  5. #5
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    The wheelsmith 2.0/1.7 are my new favorite spoke.

    Good for any rider, any conditions, any style.

  6. #6
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    Pretty basic build. Nextie 32mm internal hoops. Asymmetric, i9 hubs. 28 holes. I'm now 209 lbs like to ride aggressive trails. Rocks, jumps, all that good stuff. Thinking cxRay's are probably my best bet, but was wonder if theres better options.

  7. #7
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    Sapim D-light is my go to spoke for this case. Sapim Race if you want to save a little money and make the build a little easier.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldmantrails View Post
    Pretty basic build. Nextie 32mm internal hoops. Asymmetric, i9 hubs. 28 holes. I'm now 209 lbs like to ride aggressive trails. Rocks, jumps, all that good stuff. Thinking cxRay's are probably my best bet, but was wonder if theres better options.
    I would forgo the bladded spokes (says the guy whose latest three wheelsets have bladed spokes, they came that way) to save some money. I dont they are noticeably stronger. Prob stick with brass nipples. I run alloy but im a lightweight and no longer ride trials. Alloy corrodes, have had a number of cracked ones.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldmantrails View Post
    Pretty basic build. Nextie 32mm internal hoops. Asymmetric, i9 hubs. 28 holes. I'm now 209 lbs like to ride aggressive trails. Rocks, jumps, all that good stuff. Thinking cxRay's are probably my best bet, but was wonder if theres better options.
    28 spokes... why?

    No... CX-Rays are like a Laser that has been flattened in the middle. They are not stiff. Best would be ones that are 2.0mm on the ends and 1.7 or 1.8mm in the middle. Sapim Race, Wheelsmith DB14.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldmantrails View Post
    What's the best spoke out there for a combo of durability and weight savings on a carbon hoop build?
    Since I do a lot of backcountry type riding where there is a lot of branches and stuff on the trail, getting sticks stuck in my spokes is quite common. Furthermore, I don't want a failure when it would mean a 12 mile hike a bike back out to the nearest road (or cell service).

    Biggest area of failure for me has been at the nipple. Alloy nips seem to crack and die on me once the wheel gets a few years on it. I'll only use brass.

    For spokes I've always used a butted 2.0/1.8 - like a Sapim Race. Tough, not too heavy, easy to true. Either from Wheelsmith, DT, Sapim.

    Those D-Lights look interesting. Will have to check them out. Wonder if they make the wheel harder to true down the road. Maybe they spin easily being thinner in the middle?

  11. #11
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    D lights are basically expensive wheelsmith spokes. They're just 1.65mm vs 1.70mm. They're over 2 bucks at some places!

    They build and true just like 1.8 spokes to me. Lasers do wind significantly more but it's still a small hassle once you know to expect wind up.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Those D-Lights look interesting. Will have to check them out. Wonder if they make the wheel harder to true down the road. Maybe they spin easily being thinner in the middle?
    They are half-way between a Laser and Race, so wind-up, stiffness, and the ability to take direct impact will be in between. If you put lighter spokes on the side that naturally has lower tension, then it can help the spokes stay tensioned on vertical hits. Probably best to use Race size on the higher tensioned side, but D-Lights would be an ok choice on the other. D-Lights and Laser if you are a weight-weenie.

    I never had a problem with aluminum nipples. I used Tefgel (it's designed to prevent SS-AL corrosion on boats) on the threads and nipple seats, chamfer the rim/nipple interface, and make sure the spokes go all the way to the end of the nipple. Brass is stronger though and easier to deal with.

  13. #13
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    i've used dt competition, sapim race and wheelsmith db. i like them all. whatever i can get at a good price. always brass nips.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    D lights are basically expensive wheelsmith spokes. They're just 1.65mm vs 1.70mm. They're over 2 bucks at some places!
    Good point. DB14s are a good value.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rruff View Post
    28 spokes... why?

    No... CX-Rays are like a Laser that has been flattened in the middle. They are not stiff. Best would be ones that are 2.0mm on the ends and 1.7 or 1.8mm in the middle. Sapim Race, Wheelsmith DB14.
    28 because I got a killer deal on my i9 hubs and my current 28 hole carbon Traverse wheelset seems fine for my riding style. Just want a light and durable build.

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