Spank rims making me homicidal- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Spank rims making me homicidal

    I want to vent. I'm hot, sweaty, tired and angry. I'm not looking for resolution. I just want to yell at the clouds. Maybe some commiseration.

    Last November I built a set of wheels using Spank Trail 345 rims (30mm inner). They built easily, and have overall been durable, but I have one SERIOUS issue with them and it's making me insane today.

    TAPE DOES NOT STICK TO THE RIM

    It was like this when I built them, but I eventually got tape to stick by cleaning the rim with alcohol, and leaving a tube in for 48 hours at 35psi with the wheel in the sun as much as possible before *carefully* removing the tube and adding OrangeSeal.
    The Rekon that was on the back died yesterday, (850 miles) so a new tire goes on today. About half the spoke holes had dried sealant nearby under the tape. I left the tape in place, gently swapped the tire (hands only- no levers), including the CushCore insert and added sealant.

    Not surprisingly, it leaked from many spoke holes.

    I removed the tire, reclaimed as much sealant as I could, and cleaned the rim with a clorox wipe, then with an isopropyl soaked towel, then tried new tape. It stuck but leaked at about 10 spoke holes.
    Apart it comes (which sucks with a tire insert)
    More isopropyl, and steel wool, then again judiciously with isopropyl.
    Reassemble.... still leaks. Tape has bubbles and is wet at several spoke holes.
    I've currently (today) tried Kapton tape, 8896, and Gorilla tape (YUK). To rub salt in the wound, I got the pleasure of cleaning tape residue off the rim after the failed tape job.

    I've tried it without the insert. still leaks under the tape.

    It's currently got a tube in, and I guess I just won't ride for a few days.

    I've owned probably 10 sets of rims myself, both alloy and carbon, across 4 bikes in the last 5 years, and set up wheels for my wife's bikes (three), kid's bike, Parent's MTBs, and a friend. To say I've set-up 50+ individual rims tubeless is not an exaggeration. I have literally never seen this.

    I'm dreading the front Forekaster needing replacement.

    It's almost enough to make me want to just suck it up, eat more Ramen and save pennies to buy new rims to re-lace to the hubs.

    Never again, Spank. Never again.
    Shiftin' jumps and huckin' gears

  2. #2
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    Sounds like you're not taping bead to bead, and dealing with the resulting nightmare of doing so.

    Tape doesnt stick to my eastons either, but whatever. Still seals 100%.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Sounds like you're not taping bead to bead, and dealing with the resulting nightmare of doing so.

    Tape doesnt stick to my eastons either, but whatever. Still seals 100%.
    I had a the same thought, sounds like he's using narrow tape. But, I think his point still stands, and that fear has kept me away from the spank rims. That "oobah" center channel profile looks like a nightmare to get tape to conform and stick to. And the "bead bite" grooved texture on the bead shelf would also hinder the tape from sticking if you taped bead-to-bead, and also makes it seem that spank intend for you to use narrow tape, because otherwise it would be pointless if you cover it up with tape.

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  4. #4
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    Spank rims making me homicidal

    I thought about that. And considered it.

    However...

    1) the rims have a bead shelf with little ridges meant to hold the tire.



    2) I’ve literally never laid tape from bead to bead, only ever just covered the spoke holes.
    The Kapton tape is 20mm wide, the other 2 are 1”.

    3) the tape isn’t sticking to the rim worth a damn even before a tire enters the picture. It’s like there’s a coating on the rim.


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    Shiftin' jumps and huckin' gears

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    I thought about that. And considered it.

    However...

    1) the rims have a bead shelf with little ridges meant to hold the tire.



    2) I’ve literally never laid tape from bead to bead, only ever just covered the spoke holes.
    The Kapton tape is 20mm wide, the other 2 are 1”.

    3) the tape isn’t sticking to the rim worth a damn even before a tire enters the picture. It’s like there’s a coating on the rim.


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    One more thought. I'm not familiar with the tapes you mentioned using, but I'm not surprised that gorilla tape didn't work. It needs to stretch and conform to the shape. I usually use Stan's tape, and while it isn't perfect (can anyone suggest superior alternatives?) it will conform to the shape of a normal rim shape with the right technique. It's stiff, but if you pull hard enough it will give and stretch to conform to the shape. I then let the rim sit at least overnight with a tire and tube installed to ensure adhesion, as you mentioned doing. But if you're not stretching the tape as you install it, then it's no surprise that it won't stick. The tape should fully conform to the shape of the rim before you ever install the tube... you're not using the tube to stretch the tape, only using it to apply pressure to help ensure adhesion.

    And, I know that some people only tape the center wells of the rim, but imo the wall-to-wall method is more reliable because the tire bead seals directly against the tape, and there's not air pressure trying to push sealant and air under the edge of the tape.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT87 View Post
    One more thought. I'm not familiar with the tapes you mentioned using, but I'm not surprised that gorilla tape didn't work. It needs to stretch and conform to the shape. I usually use Stan's tape, and while it isn't perfect (can anyone suggest superior alternatives?) it will conform to the shape of a normal rim shape with the right technique. It's stiff, but if you pull hard enough it will give and stretch to conform to the shape. I then let the rim sit at least overnight with a tire and tube installed to ensure adhesion, as you mentioned doing. But if you're not stretching the tape as you install it, then it's no surprise that it won't stick. The tape should fully conform to the shape of the rim before you ever install the tube... you're not using the tube to stretch the tape, only using it to apply pressure to help ensure adhesion.

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    It's not the stretching or conforming. I'm very very familiar with 8896 (Stan's tape), and routinely use that and Kapton tape. Again... I've taped probably no joke 50 or more wheels.
    The inside of the rim is....like....shot-peened? It's not smooth anodized aluminum. I'm like 90% sure this is the root of the problem. It's like I'm trying to stick 3M tape to the rim after rubbed my fingers all over the tape... It just doesnt stick. Stretching the tape just pulls it loose.
    I'd swear it's got a teflon coating on it, like a kitchen pan.
    Shiftin' jumps and huckin' gears

  7. #7
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    Impetus, have you tried denatured alcohol? It's all I use. Leaves no residue. A bit more 'aggressive' let's say, than isopropyl. Get it at Home Depot/Lowes. Big ole' jug.

    I've also used foil duct tape to repair loose areas on tesa (stans) taped rims with success. Sticks like no ones business. And surprisingly conforms, although you can split it if not careful.

  8. #8
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    I'm also wondering if heat would help. Gorilla tape and a blow dryer?

    I'm thinking that while those ribs along the bead seats are a nice idea, you gotta cover those suckers up.

    I'm with you though. I don't think those things would be round anymore if I had them.

  9. #9
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    Yeah, what width? Pictures?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    It's not the stretching or conforming. I'm very very familiar with 8896 (Stan's tape), and routinely use that and Kapton tape. Again... I've taped probably no joke 50 or more wheels.
    The inside of the rim is....like....shot-peened? It's not smooth anodized aluminum. I'm like 90% sure this is the root of the problem. It's like I'm trying to stick 3M tape to the rim after rubbed my fingers all over the tape... It just doesnt stick. Stretching the tape just pulls it loose.
    I'd swear it's got a teflon coating on it, like a kitchen pan.
    That very well may be. I don't doubt that the profile and the surface finish are making it much harder, but I'm asking about your technique. DT rims have a similar shot-peened finish, and I've noticed that the tape doesn't stick as easily to them either. Stan's tape isnt very sticky even in the best of circumstances. Just because you've taped 50 rims, doesn't mean your technique is ideal.. are you saying that you aren't able to make the tape stretch and conform when you apply it? Because if that's the case then of course it's leaking. The tape isnt sticky enough hold on its own until you get most/all of the way around the rim. I use the valvestem to help hold the tape, and then use one hand to hold the tape and the other to stretch and apply. I start applying the tape a few inches away from the valve hole, install the valve with one hand, and continue installing. Then when you get all the way around, remove the valve and tape to a few inches of the other side of the valve to acheive ~6" of overlap. Punch the hole and reinstall the valve. Install tire, remove valve, install tube, air up, and inflate overnight.

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  11. #11
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    OohBah Spank bead is odd but I believe the beads finish is your main issue. I had a set of E-13 rims that had a rough finish to the bead. I had always used Stan's Tape in rims and this E-13 wasn't having it @ all - slip & slide. Called a local wheel builder and was told to smooth out the finish w/ a Scotchbrite HD scouring pad. I hit the channel w/ multiple passes until the rough texture was smooth. The Scotchbrite was the magic bullet. Tape went on perfectly. I now take a few passes on all my rims to make sure there are no adhesion issues. I will add before the Scotchbrite I used a boat load of chemical / cleaners that didn't do a thing.

  12. #12
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    ^^This. I was going to mention giving the surface a 'tooth'. Sounds like that is the way.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Yeah, what width? Pictures?
    Of what, exactly? There's a pic of the rim taken from the Spank website, and the tape is...just regular 25mm 3M 8896 Stan's tape. Or 20mm Kapton tape. (which interestingly, looks IDENTICAL to the fancy kit sold by Spank. It's very thin translucent bronze colored, just like Kapton.)
    If application technique is the question, I assure you it's centered in the channel, off the bead bite strips, and wrinkle-free.

    Quote Originally Posted by GT87 View Post
    That very well may be. I don't doubt that the profile and the surface finish are making it much harder, but I'm asking about your technique. DT rims have a similar shot-peened finish, and I've noticed that the tape doesn't stick as easily to them either. Stan's tape isnt very sticky even in the best of circumstances. Just because you've taped 50 rims, doesn't mean your technique is ideal.. are you saying that you aren't able to make the tape stretch and conform when you apply it? Because if that's the case then of course it's leaking. The tape isnt sticky enough hold on its own until you get most/all of the way around the rim. I use the valvestem to help hold the tape, and then use one hand to hold the tape and the other to stretch and apply. I start applying the tape a few inches away from the valve hole, install the valve with one hand, and continue installing. Then when you get all the way around, remove the valve and tape to a few inches of the other side of the valve to acheive ~6" of overlap. Punch the hole and reinstall the valve. Install tire, remove valve, install tube, air up, and inflate overnight.

    Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
    Wow. that's a lot of work. Until I laced these Spanks, my technique was
    1) clean the rim with clean rag
    2) install tape in a smooth, lightly tensioned, wrinkle-free path; overlapping by a spoke or two in each direction from the valve hole.
    3) install valve stem
    4) install tire and (sometimes) Cushcore, and sealant
    5) inflate
    6) go ride.

    Quote Originally Posted by keen View Post
    OohBah Spank bead is odd but I believe the beads finish is your main issue. I had a set of E-13 rims that had a rough finish to the bead. I had always used Stan's Tape in rims and this E-13 wasn't having it @ all - slip & slide. Called a local wheel builder and was told to smooth out the finish w/ a Scotchbrite HD scouring pad. I hit the channel w/ multiple passes until the rough texture was smooth. The Scotchbrite was the magic bullet. Tape went on perfectly. I now take a few passes on all my rims to make sure there are no adhesion issues. I will add before the Scotchbrite I used a boat load of chemical / cleaners that didn't do a thing.
    I used steel wool, earlier, but only with the intent to clean a possible contaminant, not to smooth the surface of the bead. This'll be my next step if 24+ hours tubed up in my hot Phoenix garage doesn't work.
    Shiftin' jumps and huckin' gears

  14. #14
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    3M Hi-Strength 90 Bond spray adhesive.
    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3242219&rt=rud
    It's a contact adhesive so it'll take prep, taping off and removal will be more difficult. Two surfaces have to be coated.

    An alternative tape is 3M VHB(very high bond) tape. Many widths and thicknesses. Double sided is the more common version so just don't remove the backing from one side. Or look for single sided. It may be hard to find in an affordably short length.Amazon has some choices.

    After application, the bond strength will increase as the adhesive flows onto the surface. At room temperature approximately 50% of ultimate bond strength will be achieved after 20 minutes, 90% after 24 hours and 100% after 72 hours.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    Of what, exactly? There's a pic of the rim taken from the Spank website, and the tape is...just regular 25mm 3M 8896 Stan's tape. Or 20mm Kapton tape. (which interestingly, looks IDENTICAL to the fancy kit sold by Spank. It's very thin translucent bronze colored, just like Kapton.)
    If application technique is the question, I assure you it's centered in the channel, off the bead bite strips, and wrinkle-free.



    Wow. that's a lot of work. Until I laced these Spanks, my technique was
    1) clean the rim with clean rag
    2) install tape in a smooth, lightly tensioned, wrinkle-free path; overlapping by a spoke or two in each direction from the valve hole.
    3) install valve stem
    4) install tire and (sometimes) Cushcore, and sealant
    5) inflate
    6) go ride.
    Uhh, i spelled it out in detail for you, but I'm not sure how it's that much work. If you'd done it right in the first place, you would have saved yourself a lot of work. "Lightly tensioned" apparently isn't enough tension to get it to conform to the rim shape. And the tape you're using is too narrow. 32mm tape is ideal for an i30 rim. Just because you haven't had problems in the past, doesn't mean that your technique was ideal, as evidenced by your struggle to setup a rim that's less forgiving of poor technique

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  16. #16
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    Save yourself the nightmare. Sand it with 400 grit to scuff it. You don't need to get every spot, just a quick scuff. Use whiskey tape or tyvek, and tape the full width, including the bead bite. You'll need 32-34mm tape.

    The only reason to scuff is to help the install sit flat. It's unrelated to sealing when using full width tape.

    Kapton plain won't work with spanks. It's too stiff. Stans works, but it's a pain and also too stiff. Spanks are a total nightmare if you try doing it the way you're doing, but they seal up with no issue doing it full width.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT87 View Post
    Uhh, i spelled it out in detail for you, but I'm not sure how it's that much work. If you'd done it right in the first place, you would have saved yourself a lot of work. "Lightly tensioned" apparently isn't enough tension to get it to conform to the rim shape. And the tape you're using is too narrow. 32mm tape is ideal for an i30 rim. Just because you haven't had problems in the past, doesn't mean that your technique was ideal, as evidenced by your struggle to setup a rim that's less forgiving of poor technique

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    Sigh. OK dude. We're gonna agree to disagree on this one.

    My whole point is that it shouldn't take tricks like overnight tubes to get tape to stick.
    If OEM junk Weinmann rims can make a rim surface that is smooth and accepts tape readily, so can Spank.
    I expect better from a brand that otherwise makes exceptional products. I have Spank bars and pedals on other bikes. they're great.

    I could probably use freaking Scotch tape on the Stan's Flow rim I used to have and get it to seal up.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    3M Hi-Strength 90 Bond spray adhesive.
    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3242219&rt=rud
    It's a contact adhesive so it'll take prep, taping off and removal will be more difficult. Two surfaces have to be coated.

    An alternative tape is 3M VHB(very high bond) tape. Many widths and thicknesses. Double sided is the more common version so just don't remove the backing from one side. Or look for single sided. It may be hard to find in an affordably short length.Amazon has some choices.

    After application, the bond strength will increase as the adhesive flows onto the surface. At room temperature approximately 50% of ultimate bond strength will be achieved after 20 minutes, 90% after 24 hours and 100% after 72 hours.
    Oh FFS. I'll re-lace the wheel with another rim before I subject to those antics. LoL.

    I'd absolutely mess that up and permanently bond a tire bead to the rim.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    Sigh. OK dude. We're gonna agree to disagree on this one.

    My whole point is that it shouldn't take tricks like overnight tubes to get tape to stick.
    If OEM junk Weinmann rims can make a rim surface that is smooth and accepts tape readily, so can Spank.
    I expect better from a brand that otherwise makes exceptional products. I have Spank bars and pedals on other bikes. they're great.

    I could probably use freaking Scotch tape on the Stan's Flow rim I used to have and get it to seal up.
    Disagree with what exactly? I acknowledged that the profile of the spank rims is silly and that I won't buy them for that reason, but I also pointed out that your technique was lacking, despite not having a problem with more forgiving rims in the past. Sorry if that was too much for your expert 50+ tubeless rims ego to bear. Most rims don't need tricks like overnight tubes, but I do it anyway everytime I build a new wheel because it's so easy and is cheap insurance to know that I'll never have to **** with the tape again for the life of the rim. Lesson learned, just use narrow scotch tape on weinmann rims next time... problem solved. Thanks for taking time to post here to whine and dismiss all of the advice that's been offered to you.

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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jochribs View Post
    Impetus, have you tried denatured alcohol? It's all I use. Leaves no residue. A bit more 'aggressive' let's say, than isopropyl. Get it at Home Depot/Lowes. Big ole' jug.

    I've also used foil duct tape to repair loose areas on tesa (stans) taped rims with success. Sticks like no ones business. And surprisingly conforms, although you can split it if not careful.
    This...
    Denatured alcohol works great and leaves nothing behind.
    Then use some Stan's tape.
    Definitely not gorilla tape.

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  22. #22
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    Denatured alcohol is basically just iso alcohol that smells terrible. You can get 99% iso right next to the denatured in some hardware stores if you want comparable strength with no smell.

    Or use acetone.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Denatured alcohol is basically just iso alcohol that smells terrible. You can get 99% iso right next to the denatured in some hardware stores if you want comparable strength with no smell.

    Or use acetone.
    I'm not believing this. And if you are smelling denatured and not 90% Iso, I say you need to get your sniffer checked.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Denatured alcohol is basically just iso alcohol that smells terrible. You can get 99% iso right next to the denatured in some hardware stores if you want comparable strength with no smell.

    Or use acetone.
    I've been using denatured for years to clean metal (copper sheet) before I flux and solder. I have long understood it to be different than Isopropyl.

    Your assertion at first glance made me scoff, because it just doesn't behave in a remotely similar way. It is more aggressive, while still not causing damage to pretty much anything I have used it on, including EPDM roofing membrane. It leaves no residue, while Iso does. You can see the faint residue left behind on certain surfaces.

    But anyway, for shits and giggles, I googlied it. Here you go.

    "Is rubbing alcohol and denatured alcohol the same thing?

    Rubbing alcohol is a generic term and is usually manufactured with isopropyl alcohol. Denatured alcohol contains ethanol and is engineered to discourage recreational human consumption by including additives that are poisonous, bad tasting, bad smelling or nauseating."

  25. #25
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    Iso alcohol, wider tape (ID +~3mm) , more tension, rub/press to rim to make sure it sticks securely, tube overnight. Works every time, no leaks, no peel up. Shot peened textured rims, too. I'm only up to like 15 wheels done this way, so prolly just dumb luck.
    :nono: :thumbsup:

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    Quote Originally Posted by noapathy View Post
    Iso alcohol, wider tape (ID +~3mm) , more tension, rub/press to rim to make sure it sticks securely, tube overnight. Works every time, no leaks, no peel up. Shot peened textured rims, too. I'm only up to like 15 wheels done this way, so prolly just dumb luck.
    Yeah, just dumb luck. If you'd done 50+ wheels you'd know that the right way to do it is with gorilla tape that doesn't stretch, and make sure that it's only half the inner width of your rim so that it doesn't actually overlap and seal with the tire beads, and then when you're so frustrated by your own arrogant incompetence that you're about to murder someone, you start a rant thread here under the guise of seeking a solution to your problem, and then when multiple people provide potential solutions to your problem just dismiss them and blame all your problems on the rim manufacturer. Life's not fair

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  27. #27
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    Agree with 32mm ish rim tape and more tension. That's how most tubeless rims should be set up unless they're specifically designed to only use a thin tubeless tape in an inner channel, which the Spank rims are not designed for. This will quickly solve all your problems, why are you resisting just doing it correctly?

    I've also been using Whisky tubeless tape recently, a little thinner and more compliant than Stans tape. A little cheaper too.
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    I used Stans tape with zero issues one mine. Are you pulling and stretching the tape before letting it stick to the rim? If you don’t do this step it won’t stick.


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  29. #29
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    I used Stans branded tape on Spank 350 rims here in Phoenix. Went on with no issues and stuck with multiple tire and Cushcore changes. I apply tape in short increments with very high tension and hand conform it to the rim bed.
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  30. #30
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    Sanding the finish will help the tape sticking quite a bit. My DT road bike wheels have that same finish. It sucks. But not as much as the design of those Spank rims. WTF were they thinking?

  31. #31
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    My buddy has a set of Enve wheels that he had the same issue with, nothing would stick or seal. He bought these and has had no issues since.
    https://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/pr...ubeless-strip/
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Sanding the finish will help the tape sticking quite a bit. My DT road bike wheels have that same finish. It sucks. But not as much as the design of those Spank rims. WTF were they thinking?
    They were thinking it's a stronger rim design. Which it is to some extent. Damn them for trying to make improvements without changing standards!

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by jochribs View Post
    I've been using denatured for years to clean metal (copper sheet) before I flux and solder. I have long understood it to be different than Isopropyl.

    Your assertion at first glance made me scoff, because it just doesn't behave in a remotely similar way. It is more aggressive, while still not causing damage to pretty much anything I have used it on, including EPDM roofing membrane. It leaves no residue, while Iso does. You can see the faint residue left behind on certain surfaces.

    But anyway, for shits and giggles, I googlied it. Here you go.

    "Is rubbing alcohol and denatured alcohol the same thing?

    Rubbing alcohol is a generic term and is usually manufactured with isopropyl alcohol. Denatured alcohol contains ethanol and is engineered to discourage recreational human consumption by including additives that are poisonous, bad tasting, bad smelling or nauseating."
    That's why its denatured Its ethanol, same as drinking alcohol. The denaturing agent smells completely awful to me. If you don't mind it, by all means keep on using it! I find it intolerable... but its supposed to be in there to stink real bad. It gives me a headache pretty quick, and I think my wife would kill me if I used it inside.

    For rim tape removal, I find them both about the same and sort of inadequate. Its more for cleaning fingerprint smears, grease residue, and dust off bike parts. If you want glue removal, you can go straight to goo gone or acetone.

    Its not like its wrong to use or anything... its just that smell. I suppose we all have different tolerances to that sort of stuff.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT87 View Post
    ....when you're so frustrated by your own arrogant incompetence that you're about to murder someone, you start a rant thread here under the guise of seeking a solution to your problem....

    Your reading comprehension sucks. I was pretty clear in the first sentences of my original post that I wasn’t asking people to solve my problem.


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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Agree with 32mm ish rim tape and more tension. That's how most tubeless rims should be set up unless they're specifically designed to only use a thin tubeless tape in an inner channel, which the Spank rims are not designed for. This will quickly solve all your problems, why are you resisting just doing it correctly?

    I've also been using Whisky tubeless tape recently, a little thinner and more compliant than Stans tape. A little cheaper too.


    I dunno about that. The Spank brand tubeless kit is literally 25mm Kapton tape. A very thin flexible tape that is approximately the width of the channel, and not enough to overlap the specifically designed BeadBite ribs on the bead shelf.


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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    Your reading comprehension sucks. I was pretty clear in the first sentences of my original post that I wasn’t asking people to solve my problem.


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    Oh, sorry, I just assumed that you would want to solve your problem, instead of just "yell at the clouds". Thanks for letting us all know that spank rims are hard to setup tubeless if you aren't good at tubeless setup. I think we could have figured that out on our own just by looking at the rim profile.

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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post

    For rim tape removal, I find them both about the same and sort of inadequate. Its more for cleaning fingerprint smears, grease residue, and dust off bike parts. If you want glue removal, you can go straight to goo gone or acetone.
    I'm not sure that you've been using the same stuff I've been using. It isn't sort of adequate, it's very effective, and for more than just cleaning fingerprint smears and dust of bike parts etc. I actually will not use it to clean my pistons or wipe away mineral oil during bleeds, opting for isopropyl or regular old soapy water instead to go easier on the seals. I do use it for scrubbing out brake pads, and it works excellently for that.

    One thing that I've always done, is pour out what I need and put the cap back on. It evaporates extremely fast. And if you're the type to sit there working with it, and leave the cap off while you do, or just forget to put it back on at all, well, throw it out. It isn't any good anymore. Also, I've found brands to have differences. Kleen Strip, good. Sunnyside...trash. Might as well use water. (Or rubbing alcohol )

  38. #38
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    Spank rims making me homicidal

    Ironically the ‘OohBah’ profile isn’t hard to get tape to conform to. It’s actually much easier than I anticipated, because I was pretty skeptical, but when I compared specs, the Spank rims were a good balance of weight, reported durability and price. It lays down bubble and wrinkle free. It just doesn’t stay there.

    I don’t know how many times or how many ways I have to say it. It’s like there’s a chemical coating on the rim surface.

    The tape doesn’t stick.

    It doesn’t stick to the surface

    Tape does not adhere to the rim material.

    Several brands of tape applied in several ways, with several prep methods has not created a lasting bond of adhesive to the physical structure of the rim.


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  39. #39
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    Here's a technique that's 100%, it's just not for riders overly concerned with looks.

    Tape well over the bead. Set up tire then cut the overlapping tape with a sharp razer blade. I've done this to a few rims that had me cussing. Do I care if I cut the excess tape cleanly so no one can tell? No. Could someone do a better job so you would barely be able to tell, certainly. It's like the old days of split tubes just with tape. You can't have leaks when the tire bead is locking it in. I like gorilla for this technique because it's thick enough to maybe provide a tiny bit of pinch protection too. I've used thin generic stans style tape too. This technique might be janky to some, but it works every time. I even taped up an old rim that had all sorts of residual adhesive full of dust from sitting in the garage. It's pretty much fail proof. Even dents in the rim bed that won't allow the tape to lay flat can't leak.

    I'm running rim strips now. I'm using what rngsprn posted. So far so good. We'll see if they can be used for multiple rims? If so maybe I'll be totally done with tape. Even though I've found a solution to the most stubborn tape jobs, I would be happy to never tape a rim again.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    Ironically the ‘OohBah’ profile isn’t hard to get tape to conform to. It’s actually much easier than I anticipated, because I was pretty skeptical, but when I compared specs, the Spank rims were a good balance of weight, reported durability and price. It lays down bubble and wrinkle free. It just doesn’t stay there.

    I don’t know how many times or how many ways I have to say it. It’s like there’s a chemical coating on the rim surface.

    The tape doesn’t stick.

    It doesn’t stick to the surface

    Tape does not adhere to the rim material.

    Several brands of tape applied in several ways, with several prep methods has not created a lasting bond of adhesive to the physical structure of the rim.


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    DT has the same type of texture, and it definitely makes it trickier to get the tape to stick at first, but I've not had any problems getting it to stick in the long run. Several people have already chimed in to say that they haven't had problems with the spank rims. They've also suggested techniques that differ from yours, but you don't want to hear it. You're just here to inform us that spank rims are impossible to run tubeless reliably, because if you couldn't do it with your flawless technique then no one can. Literally just whining.

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  41. #41
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    The other reason to use a few mm wider than the internal width is that stupid W profile of the Spank rims. If you stretch tape over it, it can be damn impossible to mount your tire, because you can't get the tire in the "channels". You need that extra slack, not just to overlap the bead, but also to fill the channels.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  42. #42
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    My recommendation would be to use the Specialized rim strips. They are not designed to stick to the rim and are instead like an old school rim strip. Has worked very well for me on several setups.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impetus View Post
    A very thin flexible tape that is approximately the width of the channel, and not enough to overlap the specifically designed BeadBite ribs on the bead shelf.
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    From Spank's site FAQ concerning setting up their rims tubeless:

    To tape the inner profile of your rims, it is suggested that you tape all the way around one side of the rim first, to the bead hook on the vertical flange. Be careful to keep the edge of the tape running along the bottom of the bead hook and a “light” tension on the tape as you go. As you progress around the rim, smooth the tape into the center area of the rim, removing all bubbles. Press firmly on the tape as you smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles. Pressure activates the adhesive on the tape, creating a better bond with the rim.

    Once you finish one complete rotation around the rim, cross over to the opposite side of the rim, (without cutting your tape), and tape all the way around the other side (again careful to tape up to the bead hook on the vertical flange all the way around). This will leave a single layer of tape on the bead seats and vertical flanges of the inner profile, and a double thick area in the center of the rim. By taping the vertical flanges you create an extra seal between the tire beads and rim itself, and seal the joint area completely.

    Bead Bite rims have tiny rows of ridges on the horizontal and vertical walls of the bead seats. It is not a problem to tape over them with Fratelli tape or another very thin tubeless tape, as your tape will conform into the ridges under pressure.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    My recommendation would be to use the Specialized rim strips. They are not designed to stick to the rim and are instead like an old school rim strip. Has worked very well for me on several setups.
    ^^^^ THIS IS THE ANSWER ^^^^ Specialized rim strips are durable and fit nicely on Spank w bead bite.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Salespunk View Post
    My recommendation would be to use the Specialized rim strips. They are not designed to stick to the rim and are instead like an old school rim strip. Has worked very well for me on several setups.
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckiebruster View Post
    ^^^^ THIS IS THE ANSWER ^^^^ Specialized rim strips are durable and fit nicely on Spank w bead bite.
    Wait. They work with tubeless? Non tape style strips?

  46. #46
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    I have had this issue. Love spank wheels. Tape is a BIATCH though.

    This last set, same wheels as op, 27.5 345s for my sons bike.

    My bike I bought over winter was Specialized, came with their strips, so got wider ones for the wider wheels I built for my new stumpy. Kept the strips from the old wheels.

    Specialized strips that say "BLISS" on them are tubeless rim strips, no adhesive or any bs, just hella harder to get on and off than regular rim strips (they dont like to stretch).

    Put the strips from the stock wheels onto the spank wheels (almost but not quite full bead to bead, covers all but 1mm on either side). Put the tires on, lots of soapy water as fit was TIGHT, aired tires up to max psi and let sit for a few hours. Came back and son has been riding it for a month without a single issue.

    TAPE IS DEAD IN MY EYES lol. Rims strips like specialized has from now on. So much easier.

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  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianU View Post
    From Spank's site FAQ concerning setting up their rims tubeless:

    To tape the inner profile of your rims, it is suggested that you tape all the way around one side of the rim first, to the bead hook on the vertical flange. Be careful to keep the edge of the tape running along the bottom of the bead hook and a “light” tension on the tape as you go. As you progress around the rim, smooth the tape into the center area of the rim, removing all bubbles. Press firmly on the tape as you smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles. Pressure activates the adhesive on the tape, creating a better bond with the rim.

    Once you finish one complete rotation around the rim, cross over to the opposite side of the rim, (without cutting your tape), and tape all the way around the other side (again careful to tape up to the bead hook on the vertical flange all the way around). This will leave a single layer of tape on the bead seats and vertical flanges of the inner profile, and a double thick area in the center of the rim. By taping the vertical flanges you create an extra seal between the tire beads and rim itself, and seal the joint area completely.

    Bead Bite rims have tiny rows of ridges on the horizontal and vertical walls of the bead seats. It is not a problem to tape over them with Fratelli tape or another very thin tubeless tape, as your tape will conform into the ridges under pressure.
    This ^^^^ if all else fails follow the rim manufacturer's directions.

    Last edited by huckleberry hound; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:46 PM.
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  48. #48
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    Ive had 2 sets of Spank rims. I sanded them so the tape would stick really well. The original Stans Videos used to tell us to do this too, on any rim. Also, if you are in the middle of a "tire fight", you need to clean Spank rims, and let them dry. Once sealant gets into spoke holes, it microscopically seeps under tape without being noticed, creating murderers, let your rims dry bro. Seeping sealant is like oil.
    Buy American, save lives. (Tough for cyclists)

  49. #49
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    Its already been mentioned a few times by myself included - Hit than channel w/ abrasive its quick and easy.

  50. #50
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    This being a tape thread and reading "denatured alcohol", this stuff immediately came to mine.
    It sticks like mouse trap glue. Insane. I'd bet a nickel a small square of it over each spoke hole would seal it up tighter than a clam's butt. I used it to patch a polyethylene (oily plastic) water fountian and it actually stuck to it.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  51. #51
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    Drop the tape and go down another road.
    I've been tired of laying the tape, tired of tape lifting/loosening etc etc. So if you use a normal non-asym rim with a internal width between 30-35mm i'd use a Effetto Mariposa Tubeless Rim Strip size Plus S in 27.5" or 29". It's 0.8mm thick and weigh about 60g for the Plus S 29" version. And you can take it out and use it on another rim.

    https://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/pr...ess-strip-fat/

  52. #52
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    I think I would have dropped the idea of rim strips, tape or denatured alcohol at this point, and gone for plugs.


    https://komltd.cc/products/deaneasy-tnt


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  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by garcia View Post
    Wait. They work with tubeless? Non tape style strips?
    Yep - they are designed for tubeless tires. They come in a few different widths, I think they are five bucks a strip. They last for a while until at some point they stretch a little too much and stop working - this happened to one strip that I was using for maybe 3-4 years.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by isleblue65 View Post
    I think I would have dropped the idea of rim strips, tape or denatured alcohol at this point, and gone for plugs.


    https://komltd.cc/products/deaneasy-tnt


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    These look pretty interesting.

    The effetto rim strips look pretty promising too but I'm trying the plugs first. Building a new set of wheels soon.

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