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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Portti View Post
    Roval Joe & others:

    I've got one year old Roval Control SL 29 2012 wheels and one black spoke broke from the rear wheel non-drive side. According to the spoke info chart which Roval Joe has posted earlier the correct replacement spoke would be DT Revolution 14g 302 mm. The specs don't mention the spokes beeing straight pull versions but as far as I understand they are indeed straight pull.

    The question is if the replacement spokes can be found through DT Swiss dealers since I can't find straight pull version of the Revolution on DT Swiss website or from their spoke spec document? The DT lists non-sp version only for the Revolution and sp versions for Champion, Aerolite, Competition and Aero Comp.
    Portti, you can order these spokes thru any Specialized dealer. I don't believe DT keeps many straight pull spokes stocked.

  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Todd- View Post
    A buddy of mine runs a set of Roval Carbon Control SL's, we've noticed that a number of spokes are failing, most of them at the nipple. These seem very weak and I'm surprised that a $2K wheel set has theses kinds of problems... Is it normal? Is there a remedy or a preventative idea that can be done to save future nipple failures?

    Is Specialized offering warranty on these failures? If they were my wheels, I have them relaced with Brass nipples and take the weight penalty...
    Hey Todd,
    thanks for the message. On your friend's wheels, you mention the spokes are failing at the nipple. Can you clarify if the spokes are actually failing, or if the spokes are remaining in tact and the nipples are actually failing.

  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Pilot View Post
    Well, I guess I found my answer... maybe?! I will see what the fit is like when they arrive, I have 3 bikes I could use them on, maybe they'll work somewhere. Is the brake rotor side where I'm going to have an issue? Thanks!
    MTB Pilot- brake side spacing on these wheels is exactly the same as 135 or standard 142mm, no need to do anything with this side. Of course I cannot advocate using a 142+ hub with 135 end caps since it is not designed to do so, and could result in problems for the rider (as kosmo mentions). However, maybe you'll be able to make it work with your bikes. Just make sure you keep an eye on it after you get it fitted up.

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Todd,
    thanks for the message. On your friend's wheels, you mention the spokes are failing at the nipple. Can you clarify if the spokes are actually failing, or if the spokes are remaining in tact and the nipples are actually failing.
    Spoke is fine, and was reused in the repair. The rest of the Nipple unthreaded without incedent.
    Todd :thumbsup:

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Pilot View Post
    Roval Joe, I bought a set of (new)take-off carbon roval control 142+ without paying close attention to what the 142+ meant. I've known about spec's roval whls since they came out, but haven't been paying much attention lately, therefore didn't realize that the 142+ was something totally different. I couldn't pass up the deal on these wheels...

    Anyway, is there a way to make the rear hub fit a regular 142mm frame?!?!?

    Thanks!
    Sand down your cassette lockring about half a mm, and I'll just about guarantee you're good to go.

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  6. #606
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    I didn't feel like searching this thread, but the control SL 29, so for a tubeless setup, do you have to use UST? or is 2Bliss (or other tire manufacturer equivalent) is sufficient?

  7. #607
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    Re: Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by tednugent View Post
    I didn't feel like searching this thread, but the control SL 29, so for a tubeless setup, do you have to use UST? or is 2Bliss (or other tire manufacturer equivalent) is sufficient?

    2Bliss is sufficient. 90%of the time in the shop, we don't have to even paint the beads. Most of the time the 2Bliss tires seal and work perfectly.


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  8. #608
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Todd- View Post
    Spoke is fine, and was reused in the repair. The rest of the Nipple unthreaded without incedent.
    Todd, thanks for clarifying. We are working on something that should help our customers out with this right now. Please be patient and I should have some news within the next couple of weeks.

  9. #609
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    Got the wheels today, mounted tires on them and fit them on my Pivot 429c.

    First off, these came off some guys Epic Marathon Carbon, so looking at the specs of the website they are 22mm internal. I mounted the same tire, a Bontrager XR4 Team Issue 2.3x29, as I have on my East Haven carbon which has 21mm internal and 26mm external. I was shocked at how much smaller the tire is on the Roval, both widest knob and casing...

    The 142+ rear hub fits on the back of my 429 without any problem, though I did have to re-index my RD. Hopefully it will fit in the rear on my Pivot LES just as well, since I don't want the smaller tire on my FS bike.






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  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Pilot View Post
    Got the wheels today, mounted tires on them and fit them on my Pivot 429c.

    First off, these came off some guys Epic Marathon Carbon, so looking at the specs of the website they are 22mm internal. I mounted the same tire, a Bontrager XR4 Team Issue 2.3x29, as I have on my East Haven carbon which has 21mm internal and 26mm external. I was shocked at how much smaller the tire is on the Roval, both widest knob and casing...

    The 142+ rear hub fits on the back of my 429 without any problem, though I did have to re-index my RD. Hopefully it will fit in the rear on my Pivot LES just as well, since I don't want the smaller tire on my FS bike.






    Mtb pilot- it looks like you're measuring old tires vs new. It's actually quite common for new tires to stretch over time (they are after all under a lot of pressure and constantly being flexed when ridden). Another thing to consider is, are the old/new tires the exact same casing? sometimes different casings can affect the amount the sidewalls expand. I'd recommend you ride the new tires for a week or two, then compare your measurements again, making sure you have the exact same pressure in both. Even on brand new tires I have measured differences of a couple millimeters using different pressures.

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Mtb pilot- it looks like you're measuring old tires vs new. It's actually quite common for new tires to stretch over time (they are after all under a lot of pressure and constantly being flexed when ridden). Another thing to consider is, are the old/new tires the exact same casing? sometimes different casings can affect the amount the sidewalls expand. I'd recommend you ride the new tires for a week or two, then compare your measurements again, making sure you have the exact same pressure in both. Even on brand new tires I have measured differences of a couple millimeters using different pressures.
    Yes, all good points and very true. The Bonti's that I've been riding are pretty new, maybe 50 miles or so, but I do understand the stretch aspect of them.

    Quick question for ya, these Rovals came off an Epic Marathon, so are these more oriented to XC, less rocky terrain? I use my 429 in some pretty harsh terrain and am wondering if the Havens are better suited. I've built 3 sets of carbon wheels, 2 27.5 from LB and 1 29 Derby rims, so I know how much more terrain abuse carbon wheels can withstand compared to light alloy rims, but just wondering how stout these actually are. They are 32 hole and weigh around 1590g, but I'm not sure what the real intent was for these wheels. Thinking they might be better suited for my LES that sees a little less of the roughest terrain.

    What do you think?

    Thanks for all your advice and helping the Mt. biking community!!
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  12. #612
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    I have a pair of Rovals SL, which I'm the original owner. I ride hard packed single track and for the life of me I cannot keep the rear wheel trued. I have taken it to various bike shops and no one can true the wheel. I have ended up using them with slicks and road use. I spent $1500 on these wheels and this should not be happening to such an expensive set of wheels. Worse set of wheels I have owned.

  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Pilot View Post
    Yes, all good points and very true. The Bonti's that I've been riding are pretty new, maybe 50 miles or so, but I do understand the stretch aspect of them.

    Quick question for ya, these Rovals came off an Epic Marathon, so are these more oriented to XC, less rocky terrain? I use my 429 in some pretty harsh terrain and am wondering if the Havens are better suited. I've built 3 sets of carbon wheels, 2 27.5 from LB and 1 29 Derby rims, so I know how much more terrain abuse carbon wheels can withstand compared to light alloy rims, but just wondering how stout these actually are. They are 32 hole and weigh around 1590g, but I'm not sure what the real intent was for these wheels. Thinking they might be better suited for my LES that sees a little less of the roughest terrain.

    What do you think?

    Thanks for all your advice and helping the Mt. biking community!!
    MTB Pilot- The intent for these wheels was originally XC, however, we were going into uncharted territory when we designed these wheels. The goal was to build a very robust set of carbon wheels, and that's why this was the first set of rims we did with zero bead hooks. They tested great, and have been in the market for a few years now, and we've been very pleasantly surprised with their durability, so much so that last year we started using them on some Stumpjumper FSR models. They make just as good of a trail wheel as they do for XC.

    To be fair, when we design a wheelset, we have to keep a bell curve of use in mind. We design for a target experience, but sometimes a customer's riding style and terrain, plus desired tire pressure and tire casing, can allow a rider to get away with a lot lighter wheel than what others might use. For instance, on our 2014 Control SL's, we designed these as a very lightweight XC wheelset. One of our Enduro athletes (Curtis Keene) actually rides a set of these Control SL's way beyond their intended experience, and they seem to hold up well for him. He even raced the Sea Otter DH this year on them, mounted to his Enduro. I would NEVER recommend someone try this, but he was willing to risk it since he loves how fast they accelerate because of their super light weight. At the same time, there are other riders out there who may run lower pressures with this same set of wheels, and use an Sworks casing tire (very thin), and maybe not have as much finesse as a pro athlete, and may end up not having as good of luck as he did. There are just too many variables to say definitively that one wheelset will work for every single rider for a given condition.

    Sorry this is a bit long winded!

  14. #614
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    Quote Originally Posted by CreativeEdge View Post
    I have a pair of Rovals SL, which I'm the original owner. I ride hard packed single track and for the life of me I cannot keep the rear wheel trued. I have taken it to various bike shops and no one can true the wheel. I have ended up using them with slicks and road use. I spent $1500 on these wheels and this should not be happening to such an expensive set of wheels. Worse set of wheels I have owned.
    Creative Edge- I apologize for your bad experience with our wheels. I'd also be pretty fed up if I'd spent that kind of money on wheels and they would not stay true. It sounds like you've been to a few shops, and am guessing one of them had to be a Specialized dealer? I'm surprised that if they could not true it, they did not send it to our service center for evaluation. If you are able to, please take the wheel back to the shop you bought it from and have them contact our customer service- these wheels should not be having this kind of issue since we use Pro Lock nipples which have historically done a good job at keeping spokes from detentioning.

  15. #615
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    Hi Joe!
    I have Roval Traverse wheels bought for my Camber. Front wheel has 15mm hub and I have 9mm fork. Is it possible to buy end caps so I can convert 15mm hub to 9mm TA?

    Thanks!

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    Dear Joe!

    My adventure with Roval Control Trail SL was sweet but short, as my rim cracked after few months of riding. I'm looking for a replacement, so I'm interested in ERD of mentioned rims. I've measured it manually, but official number would be nice to know.

    I'm talking about 26 inch carbon rimmed wheels that came on SWorks Stumpjumpers in 2011 or 2012 (~1280g)

    Thanks in advance
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  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by pero_dinamit View Post
    Hi Joe!
    I have Roval Traverse wheels bought for my Camber. Front wheel has 15mm hub and I have 9mm fork. Is it possible to buy end caps so I can convert 15mm hub to 9mm TA?

    Thanks!
    Pero_dinamit- The Traverse wheels are compatible with 5mm QR(which fit 9mm dropouts), 15mm thru axle, and 20mm thru axle. We don't make a 9mm thru axle end cap for these.

  18. #618
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    Joe,

    Thanks for your time spent on this thread. Very informative and useful for we consumers, particularly given that there is a good deal of misunderstanding out there on many of the topics addressed including the differences between various models. Plus, you have pretty well convinced me to buy a set of the Roval Control Carbons for my current XC bike build project. A few questions:

    First, my son recently persuaded me to buy him Control SL 29er wheels for use as a race wheelset on his Epic WC. I bought a pair of the 2011-2012 model (red/white graphic) with brand new rims that had been laced onto used hubs (carbon roval front hub). These supposedly are a special, lighter-weight "Team issue" rim built with 2.0/1.5 Revolution spokes. The set is only 1290g with valves and no rim tape! I was concerned about reliability but thought it would be OK since they seemed solid and would be "race day only" wheels. Well sure enough my kid left them on his bike for riding around because they are so fast and snappy and somehow developed a small impact break in the front rim wall from normal XC riding without known incident. I've since swapped out that wheel with another Control SL wheel (same decals but red/black spokes) but am concerned about the rear wheel from the first set. The questions:

    Do you know anything about this "Team issue" rim?

    Should I be wary about the remaining rear wheel? I'm wishing I bought a new set, but since I didn't can we send these back to S through our dealer for a crash replacement of the rim?

    Separately, my new bike build project is based on a 2013 SW Stumpjumper hardtail frame that has the SID WC Brain fork with 9mm dropouts. I am a big guy (200lbs) and lateral stiffness in the wheel is very important to me, particularly given that I can feel the dramatic difference between my current hardtail with QR RWS skewer (the standard QR with a ratchet on it) versus my FS bike with a similar fork and wheels but 20mm TA. So I am concerned about those 9mm dropouts to the point of considering replacing the fork lowers to get to 15mm TA. Hence, I am very interested in your comment from above in this thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    [snip]
    1) When 15mm thru axles came out, there was not a lot of time spent on dropout design from fork manufacturers, so with our 28mm end caps, we were equally as stiff, but significantly lighter. Over the years, most manufacturers have begun gravitating to 15mm thru designs for xc/trail forks and because of this, they have spent a lot more time refining the DO design and axles as well, so it's now very close between 15mm thru and our 28mm end caps with 5mm qr.
    [snip]
    Can you elaborate on this? It seems incredible that the smooth 28mm end cap held between the QR dropouts with that 5mm skewer, even a strong ratcheting one, can equal a 15mm TA in stiffness. I want to believe that I can stay with the 9mm dropout fork with confidence, but looking at the 28mm end caps it seems that they would be prone to sliding around a bit more (as a few people have suggested) than a 15mm TA.

    Clearly the 15-20mm TA is the flavor of the day and it is easy to lose sight of the fact that what was "the best" a couple years ago may still actually be the best or pretty close to it. I am just looking to be convinced. Was the Specialized XC team racing on the 9mm QR/28mm end cap combination until the change to 15mm TA with the 2014 model year?

    Thanks again for your thoughts and expertise.

  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jfloren View Post
    Joe,

    Thanks for your time spent on this thread. Very informative and useful for we consumers, particularly given that there is a good deal of misunderstanding out there on many of the topics addressed including the differences between various models. Plus, you have pretty well convinced me to buy a set of the Roval Control Carbons for my current XC bike build project. A few questions:

    First, my son recently persuaded me to buy him Control SL 29er wheels for use as a race wheelset on his Epic WC. I bought a pair of the 2011-2012 model (red/white graphic) with brand new rims that had been laced onto used hubs (carbon roval front hub). These supposedly are a special, lighter-weight "Team issue" rim built with 2.0/1.5 Revolution spokes. The set is only 1290g with valves and no rim tape! I was concerned about reliability but thought it would be OK since they seemed solid and would be "race day only" wheels. Well sure enough my kid left them on his bike for riding around because they are so fast and snappy and somehow developed a small impact break in the front rim wall from normal XC riding without known incident. I've since swapped out that wheel with another Control SL wheel (same decals but red/black spokes) but am concerned about the rear wheel from the first set. The questions:

    Do you know anything about this "Team issue" rim?

    Should I be wary about the remaining rear wheel? I'm wishing I bought a new set, but since I didn't can we send these back to S through our dealer for a crash replacement of the rim?

    Separately, my new bike build project is based on a 2013 SW Stumpjumper hardtail frame that has the SID WC Brain fork with 9mm dropouts. I am a big guy (200lbs) and lateral stiffness in the wheel is very important to me, particularly given that I can feel the dramatic difference between my current hardtail with QR RWS skewer (the standard QR with a ratchet on it) versus my FS bike with a similar fork and wheels but 20mm TA. So I am concerned about those 9mm dropouts to the point of considering replacing the fork lowers to get to 15mm TA. Hence, I am very interested in your comment from above in this thread:



    Can you elaborate on this? It seems incredible that the smooth 28mm end cap held between the QR dropouts with that 5mm skewer, even a strong ratcheting one, can equal a 15mm TA in stiffness. I want to believe that I can stay with the 9mm dropout fork with confidence, but looking at the 28mm end caps it seems that they would be prone to sliding around a bit more (as a few people have suggested) than a 15mm TA.

    Clearly the 15-20mm TA is the flavor of the day and it is easy to lose sight of the fact that what was "the best" a couple years ago may still actually be the best or pretty close to it. I am just looking to be convinced. Was the Specialized XC team racing on the 9mm QR/28mm end cap combination until the change to 15mm TA with the 2014 model year?

    Thanks again for your thoughts and expertise.
    Jfloren- happy to help, and glad you find this useful! Ok, let me try to address everything here:
    1) regarding your son's wheels, the team layup uses less layers of carbon to get something that was considerably lighter than what was sold. The team requested it, and we tried it for awhile, but decided against continuing to do this because they would break them from time to time. They ended up switching back to the same rims we sell. Your son will likely crack the rear at some point as well. It's unfortunate those wheels somehow made their way to public. Seeing as how they are team wheels, and purchased used, they would not be covered under crash replacement. If you have a relationship with your local Specialized dealer, you might ask them to see if they can get a quote from our customer service to replace the rims?
    2) 15mm thru axle vs 28mm end caps. Our factory mtn team did use QR's until model year 2013, when we changed spec on Epic/HT's to 15mm. It does seem hard to believe that you can get nearly the same stiffness out of a large end cap, but when tested in the lab vs the original 15mm thru axle fork designs (prior to 2013), the stiffness was nearly equal and you saved weight from the 28mm end caps vs thru axle. You can think of it this way: Imagine a traffic cone that has a very large diameter base, and think of how hard it would be to tip that cone over. the larger diameter the base, the harder it gets to tip over. If you were to cut the diameter in half, it would be a lot easier to tip over. The same applies with end caps. Standard used to be 19mm, and at 28mm diameter, the stiffness change is huge. That being said, now that the industry is kind of landing on 15mm thru as a standard size, companies are spending a lot more time/effort on those specific fork lower designs, and are getting more weight out and increasing the stiffness. Similar to bike designs over the years (lighter and stiffer). That's why we made the decision to change from QR to 15mm thru axles. The differences you are feeling between your FS bike and HT setup are hard to elaborate on unless I knew your exact setup. "similar" wheels/forks may seem the same, but sometimes small changes can make a big difference. An example of this would be when we were able to push out the flanges on our rear hubs 2mm extra, we were able to get another 10% wheel stiffness. You'd never be able to pick up on that change by looking at the two wheels. But in the end, based on your size and ability to differentiate flex between forks, you might consider changing lowers, or going to a different fork entirely. Sid's are very nice, very light, but even with a 15mm thru axle, and depending on your riding style, they are not a super stiff fork. I have one on my camber at 120mm, but I'm about 160lbs, trying to build the lightest trail bike I can, and can put up with a little flex. If you want something stiffer, it might be worth a look at a fork with a bit stiffer design. It always helps to test ride something, rather than listen to me if you can. I try to encourage everyone to go out and ride something if they are considering buying it, as the proof is usually in the pudding. I realize I'm not doing a good job of convincing you either way, but hopefully this helps and let me know if you have any further questions.

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Jfloren- happy to help, and glad you find this useful! Ok, let me try to address everything here:
    1) regarding your son's wheels, the team layup uses less layers of carbon to get something that was considerably lighter than what was sold. The team requested it, and we tried it for awhile, but decided against continuing to do this because they would break them from time to time. They ended up switching back to the same rims we sell. Your son will likely crack the rear at some point as well. It's unfortunate those wheels somehow made their way to public. Seeing as how they are team wheels, and purchased used, they would not be covered under crash replacement. If you have a relationship with your local Specialized dealer, you might ask them to see if they can get a quote from our customer service to replace the rims?
    2) 15mm thru axle vs 28mm end caps. Our factory mtn team did use QR's until model year 2013, when we changed spec on Epic/HT's to 15mm. It does seem hard to believe that you can get nearly the same stiffness out of a large end cap, but when tested in the lab vs the original 15mm thru axle fork designs (prior to 2013), the stiffness was nearly equal and you saved weight from the 28mm end caps vs thru axle. You can think of it this way: Imagine a traffic cone that has a very large diameter base, and think of how hard it would be to tip that cone over. the larger diameter the base, the harder it gets to tip over. If you were to cut the diameter in half, it would be a lot easier to tip over. The same applies with end caps. Standard used to be 19mm, and at 28mm diameter, the stiffness change is huge. That being said, now that the industry is kind of landing on 15mm thru as a standard size, companies are spending a lot more time/effort on those specific fork lower designs, and are getting more weight out and increasing the stiffness. Similar to bike designs over the years (lighter and stiffer). That's why we made the decision to change from QR to 15mm thru axles. The differences you are feeling between your FS bike and HT setup are hard to elaborate on unless I knew your exact setup. "similar" wheels/forks may seem the same, but sometimes small changes can make a big difference. An example of this would be when we were able to push out the flanges on our rear hubs 2mm extra, we were able to get another 10% wheel stiffness. You'd never be able to pick up on that change by looking at the two wheels. But in the end, based on your size and ability to differentiate flex between forks, you might consider changing lowers, or going to a different fork entirely. Sid's are very nice, very light, but even with a 15mm thru axle, and depending on your riding style, they are not a super stiff fork. I have one on my camber at 120mm, but I'm about 160lbs, trying to build the lightest trail bike I can, and can put up with a little flex. If you want something stiffer, it might be worth a look at a fork with a bit stiffer design. It always helps to test ride something, rather than listen to me if you can. I try to encourage everyone to go out and ride something if they are considering buying it, as the proof is usually in the pudding. I realize I'm not doing a good job of convincing you either way, but hopefully this helps and let me know if you have any further questions.
    Roval Joe - great information here and since I am about the same weight as you and have a similar bike set-up and based in NorCal wondering which wheels you typically run on your Camber? Thanks for your help.

  21. #621
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    Roval Joe,

    I have purchased a used set of Control trail SL with the red stickers and red spoke nipples to color match my Specialized 2013 camber expert EVO. I am really happy with the new carbon wheelset . My LBS said they were in great shape (Had them inspect them and mounted ). The Rear wheel fit perfectly .They are replacing the OEM control trails that have an OS28 end caps for the front wheel. My new Carbon control trailsl must have came from a specialized with a fox fork and has the OS24 end caps. These still fit fine on my Rockshox SID forks but I would much rather have the OS28mm end caps to provide a bit more rigidity.

    They do not swap out out as the new (Used) roval carbon trailsl front wheel's hub is bigger in diameter so the OS28mm end caps from my OEM front wheel do not fir the hub of the carbon control trail Sl.

    is there a special end caps like the OS28mm that are a bigger in diameter on the hub side ?


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  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Roval Joe - great information here and since I am about the same weight as you and have a similar bike set-up and based in NorCal wondering which wheels you typically run on your Camber? Thanks for your help.
    mike_mtn- I'm running Control SL's on my Camber. These will lighten up your ride considerably!

  23. #623
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnicosia View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I have purchased a used set of Control trail SL with the red stickers and red spoke nipples to color match my Specialized 2013 camber expert EVO. I am really happy with the new carbon wheelset . My LBS said they were in great shape (Had them inspect them and mounted ). The Rear wheel fit perfectly .They are replacing the OEM control trails that have an OS28 end caps for the front wheel. My new Carbon control trailsl must have came from a specialized with a fox fork and has the OS24 end caps. These still fit fine on my Rockshox SID forks but I would much rather have the OS28mm end caps to provide a bit more rigidity.

    They do not swap out out as the new (Used) roval carbon trailsl front wheel's hub is bigger in diameter so the OS28mm end caps from my OEM front wheel do not fir the hub of the carbon control trail Sl.

    is there a special end caps like the OS28mm that are a bigger in diameter on the hub side ?


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    jnicosia- yeah, your old wheel is using a different front hub than your new front wheel. For the SL's you just bought, you'll need to have the shop order new end caps, the part number for these is S125900004

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Jfloren- [snip]
    2) 15mm thru axle vs 28mm end caps. Our factory mtn team did use QR's until model year 2013, when we changed spec on Epic/HT's to 15mm. It does seem hard to believe that you can get nearly the same stiffness out of a large end cap, but when tested in the lab vs the original 15mm thru axle fork designs (prior to 2013), the stiffness was nearly equal and you saved weight from the 28mm end caps vs thru axle. You can think of it this way: Imagine a traffic cone that has a very large diameter base, and think of how hard it would be to tip that cone over. the larger diameter the base, the harder it gets to tip over. If you were to cut the diameter in half, it would be a lot easier to tip over. The same applies with end caps. Standard used to be 19mm, and at 28mm diameter, the stiffness change is huge. That being said, now that the industry is kind of landing on 15mm thru as a standard size, companies are spending a lot more time/effort on those specific fork lower designs, and are getting more weight out and increasing the stiffness. Similar to bike designs over the years (lighter and stiffer). That's why we made the decision to change from QR to 15mm thru axles. The differences you are feeling between your FS bike and HT setup are hard to elaborate on unless I knew your exact setup. "similar" wheels/forks may seem the same, but sometimes small changes can make a big difference. An example of this would be when we were able to push out the flanges on our rear hubs 2mm extra, we were able to get another 10% wheel stiffness. You'd never be able to pick up on that change by looking at the two wheels. But in the end, based on your size and ability to differentiate flex between forks, you might consider changing lowers, or going to a different fork entirely. Sid's are very nice, very light, but even with a 15mm thru axle, and depending on your riding style, they are not a super stiff fork. I have one on my camber at 120mm, but I'm about 160lbs, trying to build the lightest trail bike I can, and can put up with a little flex. If you want something stiffer, it might be worth a look at a fork with a bit stiffer design. It always helps to test ride something, rather than listen to me if you can. I try to encourage everyone to go out and ride something if they are considering buying it, as the proof is usually in the pudding. I realize I'm not doing a good job of convincing you either way, but hopefully this helps and let me know if you have any further questions.
    Thanks Joe. So, here are specs on my bikes:

    1. 2010 Stumpjumper Marathon M5 hardtail with 90mm travel 2012 SID RCT3 fork, 9mm QR dropouts, handbuilt Stan's Flows with DT350 hubs and DT Competition spokes/Prolock nips, using a DT RWS ratcheting skewer to hold the wheel in. Hub end caps are normal 9mm QR style with teeth to grip the inside of the dropouts. This is an excellent bike and I have it completely dialed for me, but the wheels are way too heavy and the front end has noticeably more flex as compared to:

    2. 2013 SC Tallboy LTc with 140mm 2013 Revelation RCT3 fork, 20mm TA, stock Frequency i23 rims with DT350 hubs and DT 14/15 spokes. Despite the longer travel fork and almost-as-good wheels, this bike has substantially more lateral stiffness in the front. It is the difference between "good" and "very good." I can't believe that is all from the tapered head tube and better headset, and I am assuming that the fork stiffness of Revelation vs. SID is not that much greater (stanchion diameter is the same, what is gained in heavier duty crown here is probably lost in length). Am I wrong in thinking the 20mm TA is the major difference?

    Anyhow, I would love to have this kind of stiffness on my XC bike, or as close to it as I can get without a real weight penalty. As noted, I am building up a SW Stumpjumper HT, and was considering swapping out the lowers on the Brain SID fork for a 15mm TA. But it sounds like you think the Carbon Control wheels with 28mm end cap for QR would get me to the same place with the current fork lowers as-is.

    Your illustration about the base of a cone is very helpful, and I get it. For that to work, however, the bases of the cone (the end caps) must be immobile in the dropouts. And that is where I still am a bit confused as to how those smooth end caps can work without slopping around in hard cornering. Is that not a real concern if I have the skewer ratcheted down good and tight?

    Last question -- my SID fork has been used with a traditional 9mm QR hub interface, so it has minor indentations in the paint on the inside of the QR dropouts from where the teeth dug in. Nothing serious, about the same as you would see on any bike that has been ridden. Should I assume that will make no difference in the effectiveness of the 28mm end caps?

    Thanks again for putting up with all these questions. It is good to hear from someone who really knows their stuff.

  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jfloren View Post
    Thanks Joe. So, here are specs on my bikes:

    1. 2010 Stumpjumper Marathon M5 hardtail with 90mm travel 2012 SID RCT3 fork, 9mm QR dropouts, handbuilt Stan's Flows with DT350 hubs and DT Competition spokes/Prolock nips, using a DT RWS ratcheting skewer to hold the wheel in. Hub end caps are normal 9mm QR style with teeth to grip the inside of the dropouts. This is an excellent bike and I have it completely dialed for me, but the wheels are way too heavy and the front end has noticeably more flex as compared to:

    2. 2013 SC Tallboy LTc with 140mm 2013 Revelation RCT3 fork, 20mm TA, stock Frequency i23 rims with DT350 hubs and DT 14/15 spokes. Despite the longer travel fork and almost-as-good wheels, this bike has substantially more lateral stiffness in the front. It is the difference between "good" and "very good." I can't believe that is all from the tapered head tube and better headset, and I am assuming that the fork stiffness of Revelation vs. SID is not that much greater (stanchion diameter is the same, what is gained in heavier duty crown here is probably lost in length). Am I wrong in thinking the 20mm TA is the major difference?

    Anyhow, I would love to have this kind of stiffness on my XC bike, or as close to it as I can get without a real weight penalty. As noted, I am building up a SW Stumpjumper HT, and was considering swapping out the lowers on the Brain SID fork for a 15mm TA. But it sounds like you think the Carbon Control wheels with 28mm end cap for QR would get me to the same place with the current fork lowers as-is.

    Your illustration about the base of a cone is very helpful, and I get it. For that to work, however, the bases of the cone (the end caps) must be immobile in the dropouts. And that is where I still am a bit confused as to how those smooth end caps can work without slopping around in hard cornering. Is that not a real concern if I have the skewer ratcheted down good and tight?

    Last question -- my SID fork has been used with a traditional 9mm QR hub interface, so it has minor indentations in the paint on the inside of the QR dropouts from where the teeth dug in. Nothing serious, about the same as you would see on any bike that has been ridden. Should I assume that will make no difference in the effectiveness of the 28mm end caps?

    Thanks again for putting up with all these questions. It is good to hear from someone who really knows their stuff.
    Jfloren- I think we're working on a record for most words traded back and forth in this thread! You have a lot of good questions. OK, here we go:
    Stiffness difference between XC and trail bikes- to summarize, you will not get the same kind of stiffness from a Sid on your HT as you have from your Tallboy setup. A lot more than just stanchions/axles is determining stiffness here: 1) Revelation crowns and lowers are designed to be stiffer than a sid so you are gaining some stiffness there. 2)I'm not sure of the stiffness difference between the two wheelsets you have, but it's safe to say there could be a difference there. While I can't bullet point list out all the things that would/could make a difference in stiffness between your two setups, I can confidently say that the Sid with a 15mm thru axle is going to be the same/similar stiffness to your Tallboy/Revelation setup. The 15mm thru axle just does not make that huge of a difference by itself, and there are limitations to the chassis design of the Sid since it's a focused XC race fork (RS is trying to get as many grams out as possible).

    for the second part- stiffness difference between 15mm thru and OS end caps: the teeth in a 19mm end caps and smoothness on the OS end caps don't really make a difference because the end caps can rotate independently anyhow. It's the diameter itself that lends to side to side stiffness change (rocking, not rotating). That being said, if you check out the hub for the RS1 fork that is upside down, they put teeth in their OS endcaps because the end caps are actually held together inside the hub (part of their proprietary design), and they have to do that because the fork has no stiffening arch because it's upside down, and the legs can twist very easily w/out that feature, unlike a standard for like you are running. I know I'm not doing a very good job of explaining this by writing it out, but hopefully some of this makes sense? You might feel a slight increase by going to the 15mm lowers, but again, you are not going to get a similar stiffness up front to what you have on your Tallboy.

    let me know if this helps?

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    Thanks Joe. That's very helpful.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    mike_mtn- I'm running Control SL's on my Camber. These will lighten up your ride considerably!
    Roval Joe - at 1370g those are very light wheels! Also, what tires do you run on your Camber in super dry months? Thanks again!

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    Hi Roval Joe,

    I have changed frame to a Blur LTc with Revelation 150mm forks. I have the 2011 Roval Control SL carbon wheels. Do you think they will be strong enough with this type of bike as I weigh just under 90Kg.

    Would getting new stronger spokes on them help/be possible? I would be thinking of rebuilding with DT competition straightpull for extra strength.

    Thanks again for your help, Neil

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    jnicosia- yeah, your old wheel is using a different front hub than your new front wheel. For the SL's you just bought, you'll need to have the shop order new end caps, the part number for these is S125900004
    Thanks Joe! Part is ordered. I had another question though, after a long weekend of riding hard I noticed a wobble in front wheel. Put it in my truing stand and it seems as if the one spoke is loose and it won't tighten . Probably stripped out .

    Can you assist me in the proper part order number for those black spokes and the red nipples ?

    Can I order from my LBS or can I get from DT ?
    2014 YETI SB95C , KS LEV seat post,Nextie Carbon Wheelset/Hope Hubs/27lbs
    Framed Alaskan Carbon X1 /26lbs/Nextie Hoops.

  30. #630
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    Mr. Roval, I have a 2013 SJ EVO Comp 29. It has a 20mm front hub. I want to install a Pike fork which uses a 15mm axle only. I was told by my LBS that Roval doesn't manufacture 15mm end caps for that front hub and I'd need a new hub or new wheel. Are there in fact 15mm end caps for that hub? If so what would the part numbers be? Thanks for your help!

  31. #631
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    hello Rovaljoe.I have 2014 roval carbon control 29 wheels from a 2014 epic carbon world cup.What are the spoke lengths for those wheels please.It is the DT Supercomp straight pull.My dealer wants $6 per spoke but does not have super comps,just revolution spokes.

  32. #632
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    Roval Joe/everyone,
    What a great thread. I have a 2013 Sworks epic 29 with Roval carbon control SL wheels. The wheels have about 2k miles and have been great. I love them with the Racing Ralph tires. Standard QR.

    Lately I noticed a slight lateral play in the front wheel. Removed the end caps and the bearing looks clean, axle is tight. I can note a slight play in the end caps and I am thinking they may have some wear. It came with another set of end caps for a thru hub fork, so I am going to try and mount it up to another bike and see if that narrows it down to the end caps being worn.

    I am over an hour from a Specialized dealer, so I am wondering if there is any place online I can order these end caps? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

  33. #633
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    I'm extremely upset with the Specialized warranty department. I purchased a set of Carbon Roval Mountain bike rims from a bike shop of theirs last February and had the front rim fail on me last month. After sitting on my rims for 2 weeks they deny my claim by saying it was from a heat source from being to close to a car muffler. My bike is only stored in a garage and it is never placed near a car muffler or any other heat source not even when its on a bike rack. The deformation in the carbon came from the freaking nipple ripping out of the wheel. So much for lifetime warranty... 360 bucks for a new rim that I'm not paying.

  34. #634
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    2015 roval control sl and rs1 fork

    Hello Roval Joe

    I want to know if the 2015 s-works models will come with the rs1 fork.. if not I will keep my 2014 control sl wheelset. I really love these wheels, but if in 2015 bikes come with that rs1, this wheelset will be like obsolete to use with the rs1 fork or I can buy a roval 24 hole rs1 compatible hub??!! I dont know what to do!!! bro we have to take some decisions about it thanks

  35. #635
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnicosia View Post
    Thanks Joe! Part is ordered. I had another question though, after a long weekend of riding hard I noticed a wobble in front wheel. Put it in my truing stand and it seems as if the one spoke is loose and it won't tighten . Probably stripped out .

    Can you assist me in the proper part order number for those black spokes and the red nipples ?

    Can I order from my LBS or can I get from DT ?
    jnicosia- you can order these thru your dealer if they do not have them in stock. We created a Roval service kit that has the spokes you need, and many shops have them. I've posted a link to the kit earlier in this thread if you want to have a look for yourself?

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jrcamp3 View Post
    Mr. Roval, I have a 2013 SJ EVO Comp 29. It has a 20mm front hub. I want to install a Pike fork which uses a 15mm axle only. I was told by my LBS that Roval doesn't manufacture 15mm end caps for that front hub and I'd need a new hub or new wheel. Are there in fact 15mm end caps for that hub? If so what would the part numbers be? Thanks for your help!
    Jrcamp3- Sorry, the front hub you have is not a Roval hub, so there are no conversion end caps for your wheel. Not sure on your timeline for needing to get a replacement wheel, but we'll have something new and affordable coming soon which would. Keep your eyes out for some details in the press next week.

  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by havnfun View Post
    hello Rovaljoe.I have 2014 roval carbon control 29 wheels from a 2014 epic carbon world cup.What are the spoke lengths for those wheels please.It is the DT Supercomp straight pull.My dealer wants $6 per spoke but does not have super comps,just revolution spokes.
    havnfun- I've posted a link to our Roval service kit earlier in this thread that will give you spoke lengths for all of our current wheels including yours. Have a look at it, and let me know if you have any questions. To note though, Control Carbon wheels use Revolution spokes, not Supercomp.

  38. #638
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    Quote Originally Posted by emccallum View Post
    Roval Joe/everyone,
    What a great thread. I have a 2013 Sworks epic 29 with Roval carbon control SL wheels. The wheels have about 2k miles and have been great. I love them with the Racing Ralph tires. Standard QR.

    Lately I noticed a slight lateral play in the front wheel. Removed the end caps and the bearing looks clean, axle is tight. I can note a slight play in the end caps and I am thinking they may have some wear. It came with another set of end caps for a thru hub fork, so I am going to try and mount it up to another bike and see if that narrows it down to the end caps being worn.

    I am over an hour from a Specialized dealer, so I am wondering if there is any place online I can order these end caps? Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
    emccallum- unfortunately we do not offer the end caps for purchase online. That being said though, I've never seen an end cap wear out. After 2K miles of off road riding, it is more likely that your bearings are worn and they just need to be replaced. This should be done with a proper bearing tool, so it would be best to take to a Specialized dealer, or if you have access to such a tool, the link that I've posted to our service information will show you which bearings are needed.

  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by PainkillerSPE View Post
    I'm extremely upset with the Specialized warranty department. I purchased a set of Carbon Roval Mountain bike rims from a bike shop of theirs last February and had the front rim fail on me last month. After sitting on my rims for 2 weeks they deny my claim by saying it was from a heat source from being to close to a car muffler. My bike is only stored in a garage and it is never placed near a car muffler or any other heat source not even when its on a bike rack. The deformation in the carbon came from the freaking nipple ripping out of the wheel. So much for lifetime warranty... 360 bucks for a new rim that I'm not paying.
    PainkillerSPE- Could you do me a favor and PM me with some photos of your rim where the damage is? I can give you a second opinion. Also, I think you were given some bad information about replacement cost. Our crash replacement program for rims is half the cost of what you are mentioning. Like I said, PM me, and I'll do my best to help you from there. Thanks, and sorry for the bad experience!

  40. #640
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    Quote Originally Posted by andresco50 View Post
    Hello Roval Joe

    I want to know if the 2015 s-works models will come with the rs1 fork.. if not I will keep my 2014 control sl wheelset. I really love these wheels, but if in 2015 bikes come with that rs1, this wheelset will be like obsolete to use with the rs1 fork or I can buy a roval 24 hole rs1 compatible hub??!! I dont know what to do!!! bro we have to take some decisions about it thanks
    andresco50- As much as I'd like to give you a simple answer, you are asking me to provide information about our model year 2015 bike lineup one month prior to when we introduce it to our dealers. Unfortunately I can't confirm or deny the rs1 spec.

    What I can tell you is this: your current wheelset will not work with an RS1 fork. BUT- we are making a Control SL "Torque Tube" wheelset for aftermarket purchase which will be available later this summer, and this is specifically for the RS1 fork. it is basically the same as the standard Control SL, but uses the SRAM "predictable steering" front hub, and the front rim is drilled specifically for it. You WILL NOT be able to simply lace any RS1 compatible front hub into a standard Control SL rim because of the spoke angles being different.

  41. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    emccallum- unfortunately we do not offer the end caps for purchase online. That being said though, I've never seen an end cap wear out. After 2K miles of off road riding, it is more likely that your bearings are worn and they just need to be replaced. This should be done with a proper bearing tool, so it would be best to take to a Specialized dealer, or if you have access to such a tool, the link that I've posted to our service information will show you which bearings are needed.
    Thanks for the reply. You were correct, the R bearing was toast. I got some new bearings and pressed them in, all is well again. Very, very slight lateral play, but nothing like it was before. Thank you.

  42. #642
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    The 2012 SX trail came with Roval DH wheels. Are they standard 142x12 or 142+? Are the front hubs convertible to 15qr?
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    andresco50- As much as I'd like to give you a simple answer, you are asking me to provide information about our model year 2015 bike lineup one month prior to when we introduce it to our dealers. Unfortunately I can't confirm or deny the rs1 spec.

    What I can tell you is this: your current wheelset will not work with an RS1 fork. BUT- we are making a Control SL "Torque Tube" wheelset for aftermarket purchase which will be available later this summer, and this is specifically for the RS1 fork. it is basically the same as the standard Control SL, but uses the SRAM "predictable steering" front hub, and the front rim is drilled specifically for it. You WILL NOT be able to simply lace any RS1 compatible front hub into a standard Control SL rim because of the spoke angles being different.
    Thanks for the response! is cool yeah but the rs1 is heavier than my actual brain carbon fork and the compatible hub is heavier too so little disappointed about that fork but is innovation....

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    The big problem in the 90's for USD forks was having to still have a brake arch for the rim brakes.

  45. #645
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    Need some help/advice. Have a set of 2013 Roval Control 29ers...the lighter weight alloy XC wheel set. Standard 135 rear/9mm front. Love these wheels and have put ~1000 miles on them. Recently, I have been breaking spokes on the rear wheel..1 per ride. Wheel is not damaged, spokes are just breaking off at the head. Been both drive/non-drive side..not just one side. Wheel doesn't appear to have tension issues. Any ideas? Could just be I have met the service life of the spokes? This is on a Stumpjumper Evo HT - not doing DH or anything and I am very much a "float like a butterfly/sting like a bee" type of rider. I weigh 165. They are set up tubeless..run 26 psi on the back with a Renegade 1.95. Help!
    Last edited by TiGeo; 06-16-2014 at 03:39 AM.
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    I see Roval Traverse Fatties have been announced. Any idea when the carbon ones will actually be available to dealers and estimated delivery dates?

  47. #647
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Todd, thanks for clarifying. We are working on something that should help our customers out with this right now. Please be patient and I should have some news within the next couple of weeks.
    Any update on this one Joe? Seems there are a lot of owners dealing with this issue. Not sure if it's regional or a product wide problem. I suggested he get the wheel relaced using Brass nipples.
    Todd :thumbsup:

  48. #648
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    im also interested, is that the $1,200.- roval control replacement for 2015? or is there something else to wait for even cheaper? since last roval traverse sl where around $1,650.- and this new ones are $1,400.-
    i like price drops
    Quote Originally Posted by dan4jeepin View Post
    I see Roval Traverse Fatties have been announced. Any idea when the carbon ones will actually be available to dealers and estimated delivery dates?

  49. #649
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    The 2012 SX trail came with Roval DH wheels. Are they standard 142x12 or 142+? Are the front hubs convertible to 15qr?
    Mr. Lynch- these were standard 142, and are not convertible. They are only Roval rims, not a Roval handbuilt wheelset.

  50. #650
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Need some help/advice. Have a set of 2013 Roval Control 29ers...the lighter weight alloy XC wheel set. Standard 135 rear/9mm front. Love these wheels and have put ~1000 miles on them. Recently, I have been breaking spokes on the rear wheel..1 per ride. Wheel is not damaged, spokes are just breaking off at the head. Been both drive/non-drive side..not just one side. Wheel doesn't appear to have tension issues. Any ideas? Could just be I have met the service life of the spokes? This is on a Stumpjumper Evo HT - not doing DH or anything and I am very much a "float like a butterfly/sting like a bee" type of rider. I weigh 165. They are set up tubeless..run 26 psi on the back with a Renegade 1.95. Help!
    TiGeo- the set of wheels you have is not a Roval wheelset, they just use the Roval rim. That being said, they are not anywhere close to being at the end of their service life. I'd like you to take the wheelset to the shop you bought the bike from and have them return it to our customer service team for an evaluation to see what the issue is. Can you please PM me with details on which shop you'll be going thru so I can give the customer service team a heads up on this? Thanks.

  51. #651
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Need some help/advice. Have a set of 2013 Roval Control 29ers...the lighter weight alloy XC wheel set. Standard 135 rear/9mm front. Love these wheels and have put ~1000 miles on them. Recently, I have been breaking spokes on the rear wheel..1 per ride. Wheel is not damaged, spokes are just breaking off at the head. Been both drive/non-drive side..not just one side. Wheel doesn't appear to have tension issues. Any ideas? Could just be I have met the service life of the spokes? This is on a Stumpjumper Evo HT - not doing DH or anything and I am very much a "float like a butterfly/sting like a bee" type of rider. I weigh 165. They are set up tubeless..run 26 psi on the back with a Renegade 1.95. Help!
    TiGeo- Sorry, I re-read your post and realize that you are using the true Roval wheelset on your bike, I was assuming you had the OE set that came with the bike on there. I'd still like you to go thru customer service, so we can see what is going on here. Sorry for the confusion, and please PM me with shop info. thanks!

  52. #652
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    No..these are the aftermarket Roval wheels not the OEM that use the Roval rim and generic hubs.

    Edit...you got it.

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  53. #653
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Todd- View Post
    Any update on this one Joe? Seems there are a lot of owners dealing with this issue. Not sure if it's regional or a product wide problem. I suggested he get the wheel relaced using Brass nipples.
    Todd, thanks for checking back on this. We are working on it, and will have something as soon as possible. We are setting things up on our end first and I'll let you know details as soon as we're ready. Do not be afraid to keep hounding me on this one.

  54. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan4jeepin View Post
    I see Roval Traverse Fatties have been announced. Any idea when the carbon ones will actually be available to dealers and estimated delivery dates?
    dan4jeepin- I do not know the exact date, but they should be available within the next 3 weeks.

  55. #655
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    Quote Originally Posted by checocc View Post
    im also interested, is that the $1,200.- roval control replacement for 2015? or is there something else to wait for even cheaper? since last roval traverse sl where around $1,650.- and this new ones are $1,400.-
    i like price drops
    checocc- The Control Carbon wheels ($1200) will still be in the line, so Traverse Fatties are not a replacement. Nothing coming cheaper, so order up when they are available, which should be in the next 3 weeks.

  56. #656
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    To those of you who saw the Traverse fatties being launched today, let me know if you have any questions about them. Lots of new stuff going on, happy to explain if anyone has further questions!

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    Hi, what are the front/rear hub bearing dimensions for Roval 2014 Control SL carbon 29 142+ wheelset (front hub 24 spoke 15mm, rear hub 28 spoke 142+ XD driver body XX1) ?

  58. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    To those of you who saw the Traverse fatties being launched today, let me know if you have any questions about them. Lots of new stuff going on, happy to explain if anyone has further questions!
    Any chance these will be standard on the 2015 S-Works Enduro?

  59. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    checocc- The Control Carbon wheels ($1200) will still be in the line, so Traverse Fatties are not a replacement. Nothing coming cheaper, so order up when they are available, which should be in the next 3 weeks.
    will the $1,200.- wheels come with new decals for 2015 too?

  60. #660
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK2014 View Post
    Hi, what are the front/rear hub bearing dimensions for Roval 2014 Control SL carbon 29 142+ wheelset (front hub 24 spoke 15mm, rear hub 28 spoke 142+ XD driver body XX1) ?


    here you go:
    Rear Hub: 6902, 15/28/7mm, qty 2. XD Driver:6802, 15/24/5mm, qty 2.
    Front Hub:6803, 17/26/7mm
    Last edited by Roval Joe; 06-17-2014 at 08:39 AM. Reason: incorrect information

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Any chance these will be standard on the 2015 S-Works Enduro?
    rondre3000, like a request I had last week about bike spec, I'm not at liberty to confirm bike specs prior to launching. That being said, we'll launch all our '15 bikes in less than a month, so keep your eyes peeled!

  62. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by checocc View Post
    will the $1,200.- wheels come with new decals for 2015 too?
    checocc- great question. The vinyl decals is something that will be exclusive to the Traverse SL's for '15. Seems like we could just slap some vinyl decals on our other models also, but there are some reasons we cannot. If this works well with Traverse, we'll likely migrate other platforms to this also as we update them.

  63. #663
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    rondre3000, like a request I had last week about bike spec, I'm not at liberty to confirm bike specs prior to launching. That being said, we'll launch all our '15 bikes in less than a month, so keep your eyes peeled!
    My bad, must have missed that post. Thank you so much for your help tho. Been on the fence about picking up an Enduro this week or waiting!


    -R.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Roval Joe - at 1370g those are very light wheels! Also, what tires do you run on your Camber in super dry months? Thanks again!
    Hi Roval Joe: just circling back as never got your reply on which tires you run on your Camber and Control SL's for very dry, loose conditions?

  65. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Hi Roval Joe: just circling back as never got your reply on which tires you run on your Camber and Control SL's for very dry, loose conditions?
    mike mtn- my apologies. When it's loose and dry like it is now, I'll run a Butcher front/Purgatory rear, both control casing. This combo adds significant weight, but the traction payoff is worth it. Once the trails start getting a little moisture, I'll go back to Purgatory front and Ground Control rear. And I'll run both of those setups tubeless.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    mike mtn- my apologies. When it's loose and dry like it is now, I'll run a Butcher front/Purgatory rear, both control casing. This combo adds significant weight, but the traction payoff is worth it. Once the trails start getting a little moisture, I'll go back to Purgatory front and Ground Control rear. And I'll run both of those setups tubeless.
    Roval Joe - I have the Purgatory Grid 2Bliss rear tire now and traction is fantastic but there is a bit of a weight penalty over an XC tire. I bought the new Grid a few months ago for the protection in rocky areas and after weighing the Control and Grid casing tires found only 20g weight difference. Look forward to trying the Butcher when my front tire wears out. Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    To those of you who saw the Traverse fatties being launched today, let me know if you have any questions about them. Lots of new stuff going on, happy to explain if anyone has further questions!
    Roval Joe - are the Traverse fattie 29 SL's lighter than the Control Carbon 29 set-up for tubeless? How do the Fattie's and Control Carbon's compare strength-wise? Do the Fattie SL's use alloy or brass nipples? Does DT Swiss sell that 6 degree engagement hub elsewhere or is it only available on Roval wheels? Thanks.

  68. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Does DT Swiss sell that 6 degree engagement hub elsewhere or is it only available on Roval wheels? Thanks.
    You can replace the star ratchets in any DT hub with the 54 tooth versions. Trek uses them and you can order a set for $120 list from a dealer.
    Last edited by eb1888; 06-18-2014 at 05:25 AM.

  69. #669
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Roval Joe - are the Traverse fattie 29 SL's lighter than the Control Carbon 29 set-up for tubeless? How do the Fattie's and Control Carbon's compare strength-wise? Do the Fattie SL's use alloy or brass nipples? Does DT Swiss sell that 6 degree engagement hub elsewhere or is it only available on Roval wheels? Thanks.
    mike_mtn- as eb1888 states above, you can get the 54t star ratchet through DT, but to clarify, it will NOT go in any DT hub, only 240 based or 350 based hubs. To answer your other questions, the Fatties are a bit more robust than Control Carbons, but both wheels do very well in resisting impact damage. All Roval wheels use DT alloy pro lock hex head nipples. The Fatties are slightly heavier than Control Carbons, it's important to note that we are advertising weights of all our new wheels WITHOUT our rim strips, while our previous models have the strip weight included. Reason for this is that there are options now for setting up tubeless (plugs or strips), and the weights are quite different.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    mike_mtn- as eb1888 states above, you can get the 54t star ratchet through DT, but to clarify, it will NOT go in any DT hub, only 240 based or 350 based hubs. To answer your other questions, the Fatties are a bit more robust than Control Carbons, but both wheels do very well in resisting impact damage. All Roval wheels use DT alloy pro lock hex head nipples. The Fatties are slightly heavier than Control Carbons, it's important to note that we are advertising weights of all our new wheels WITHOUT our rim strips, while our previous models have the strip weight included. Reason for this is that there are options now for setting up tubeless (plugs or strips), and the weights are quite different.
    Roval Joe and eb1888 - thank you for the helpful info.

  71. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    mike_mtn- as eb1888 states above, you can get the 54t star ratchet through DT, but to clarify, it will NOT go in any DT hub, only 240 based or 350 based hubs. To answer your other questions, the Fatties are a bit more robust than Control Carbons, but both wheels do very well in resisting impact damage. All Roval wheels use DT alloy pro lock hex head nipples. The Fatties are slightly heavier than Control Carbons, it's important to note that we are advertising weights of all our new wheels WITHOUT our rim strips, while our previous models have the strip weight included. Reason for this is that there are options now for setting up tubeless (plugs or strips), and the weights are quite different.
    What is the advantage of using one over the other with regard to rim strips vs the new plugs on the new Fatties?

  72. #672
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Roval Joe and eb1888 - thank you for the helpful info.
    From my own experience with the 36t star ratchets the 54s will go in any hub currently using star ratchets, it's a dropin change. That includes my 340 hubs and those expensive ceramic bearing 180s. Some hubs don't take changeable endcaps, so be careful. You can order from a Trek dealer also. They will not go in the Traverse Fattie aluminum hub. It uses pawls not star ratchets.

  73. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by montananate View Post
    What is the advantage of using one over the other with regard to rim strips vs the new plugs on the new Fatties?
    Mainly weight. An estimated 70+ grams for rim strips on the Fatties, while the plugs come in at under 30 (in the 20's IIRC).


    -R.

  74. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Mainly weight. An estimated 70+ grams for rim strips on the Fatties, while the plugs come in at under 30 (in the 20's IIRC).


    -R.
    rondre3000- thanks for paying attention and catching that! basically we wanted to provide a lighter option for riders who wanted to get every gram out of their wheelset. Of course you could use a lightweight tape also, but some people do not like using tape, so it's just another light option. Total weight on plugs for one set of wheels is 12g.

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    Hey Roval Joe - are there end caps that fit the new Fattie front wheel for 9mm quick release? I know 15mm would be better, but my fork is qr at this time.
    [

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonaSS View Post
    Hey Roval Joe - are there end caps that fit the new Fattie front wheel for 9mm quick release? I know 15mm would be better, but my fork is qr at this time.
    KonaSS- there are end caps available for you to use a standard 5mm QR with the Fatties, but not a 9mm QR.

  77. #677
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    havnfun- I've posted a link to our Roval service kit earlier in this thread that will give you spoke lengths for all of our current wheels including yours. Have a look at it, and let me know if you have any questions. To note though, Control Carbon wheels use Revolution spokes, not Supercomp.
    Roval Joe the Specialized web site states super comp when I look at the specs for that bike.I'm confused.Thank

  78. #678
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    Quote Originally Posted by havnfun View Post
    Roval Joe the Specialized web site states super comp when I look at the specs for that bike.I'm confused.Thank
    havnfun- The website listing for that bike has an error in it, my apologies for that. Control wheels definitely use Revolution spokes.

  79. #679
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    I see that the Traverse Fattie SL has 6 degrees of engagement. Any idea what the engagement on the aluminum Traverse Fattie is? Thanks for the info!

  80. #680
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    Should be the same hub so engagement will be the same.

  81. #681
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    Quote Originally Posted by c-wal View Post
    Should be the same hub so engagement will be the same.
    They are different hubs. Aluminum version has pawls rather than star rachet.

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  83. #683
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    Gotcha -- appreciate the help. Unfortunately, the internet sometimes contradicts itself:

    New Roval Traverse Fattie wheels revealed - BikeRadar

    "The rear wheel [traverse fattie] features the new DT Swiss 360 hub, which uses a 3-pawl mechanism rather than the Star Ratchet, but is still compatible with the XD Driver body. Rear axle compatibility covers the usual 135mm and 142x12mm, but unlike their carbon counterparts, there’s no 142+ option here."

  84. #684
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    Absolutly agree with you there. They all make mistakes but some sources seem to be better than others.
    Maybe the dt360 is a new hub though; although I would not expect specialized to deviate much from their current offerings in regards to hub choice on that particular wheel.
    Purely e-speculation on my part though...
    Last edited by c-wal; 07-02-2014 at 02:35 PM.

  85. #685
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    Joe, I have a 2012 Epic with control 29 SL. I managed to break the front rim. I want to rebuild the wheel with the current MY Control 29SL, and will also rebuild the rear wheel with same. The Specialized LBS says rims are available but to convert from the 2012 to current MY rim I will need new spokes, also that I would need to buy a full box of spokes for whichever lengths. Can you provide the spoke lengths front and rear so I can rebuild the wheel myself?

  86. #686
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    Hey there Roval Joe, you astounding font of information!

    I have a rear 142+ Roval Control Trail 29 SL vintage 2012 (with red graphics) that I am pretty hard on, since it has ended up on my more rugged, long travel bike.

    After two hard-earned broken spokes, I plan to rebuild the wheel with new spokes, which appear from the chart to be DT Supercomp 15G in 299 and 302 lengths.

    Could you confirm these lengths before I order, and also could you recommend a 14G alternative for a bit more beef?

    Thanks!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  87. #687
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    Roval questions?

    @c-wal I've come around to your line of thinking. Any idea what the engagement is on the standard "dt Swiss internals"?

  88. #688
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spillway View Post
    Any idea what the engagement is on the standard "dt Swiss internals"?
    Standard is 18 POE, There is a 36 POE upgrade ratchet, but now from Bontrager there is 54 POE available and in reading some articles that ratchet is going to be used in the Specialized wheel. If the quote "dt Swiss internals" is being quoted from Specialized website in the past it has meant either 18t or 36t, I've gotten them both ways from them. In the future it could mean 54T. Truthfully that quote is probably meant for the design itself, and not the number of tooth ratchets in them.

  89. #689
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spillway View Post
    I see that the Traverse Fattie SL has 6 degrees of engagement. Any idea what the engagement on the aluminum Traverse Fattie is? Thanks for the info!
    Spillway, you have a good question, and I'll have to get back to you on this as I don't know off the top of my head. To be clear, this hub uses a pawl mechanism, which is different than the star ratchet system like a 240 or 350 based hub uses. I'll have an answer for you shortly.

  90. #690
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    Roval Joe - Do you have any idea "when" the Fattie SL Wheels are slated to begin shipping???

  91. #691
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spillway View Post
    Gotcha -- appreciate the help. Unfortunately, the internet sometimes contradicts itself:

    New Roval Traverse Fattie wheels revealed - BikeRadar

    "The rear wheel [traverse fattie] features the new DT Swiss 360 hub, which uses a 3-pawl mechanism rather than the Star Ratchet, but is still compatible with the XD Driver body. Rear axle compatibility covers the usual 135mm and 142x12mm, but unlike their carbon counterparts, there’s no 142+ option here."
    Hi Spillway, thanks for your patience! 360 hubs have 15 degrees of engagement. For perspective, this is in between the 36t engagement and 18t engagement of the 240 based star ratchets.

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    Roval questions?

    Thanks for the info, Joe! Couldn't have found that info anywhere else. Really appreciate it!

  93. #693
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMFT View Post
    Roval Joe - Do you have any idea "when" the Fattie SL Wheels are slated to begin shipping???
    DMFT- the first shipment of SL Fatties went out just over a week ago, and are in shops now.

  94. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hi Spillway, thanks for your patience! 360 hubs have 15 degrees of engagement. For perspective, this is in between the 36t engagement and 18t engagement of the 240 based star ratchets.
    As a follow-up, do you have rim weights for the AL fattie rim? I know they arent sold as rim-only, but I'm curious how the weight is roughly distributed. Thank you again.

  95. #695
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    Roval Joe, I posted this last week, but am re-posting in case you missed it over the holiday weekend.

    I have a rear 142+ Roval Control Trail 29 SL vintage 2012 (with red graphics) that I am pretty hard on, since it has ended up on my more rugged, long travel bike.

    After two hard-earned broken spokes, I plan to rebuild the wheel with new spokes, which appear from the Roval chart to be DT Supercomp 15G in 299 and 302 lengths.

    Could you confirm these lengths before I order, and also could you recommend a 14G alternative for a bit more beef?

    Thanks!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  96. #696
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    Roval Joe,
    I searched the entire sticky, but could not find the info I am looking for.

    I have a 2013 Stumpjumper FSR Comp (26"). The bike came stock with a Roval Control Trail (alloy) wheelset. The Specialized website lists these as having "New Specialized Hi Lo disc, 4x-sealed cartridge bearing" hub, however your detailed spreadsheet lists these as "DT Swiss based". The rear thru bolt has a DT Swiss label on it? Is the rear hub in fact a DT swiss product worthy of rebuilding or this a ride-break-dispose quality product like the rest of Specialized HiLo labeled hubs?

    I was recently won new wheelset build with Hope Pro hubs and I am debating on either replacing the Rovals (26) or the stock wheels from my 29er with this free set. I would hate to get another (comparable) set of 26 inch wheels if they are already a quality set.

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    I have a 2012 Stumpjumper Comp Alloy. Came with Roval 29er wheels with 26mm eyelets. (what is the full name of these wheels? Control? ) Also Anyone know 1) if these are tubeless compatible 2) if so, what width tubeless rim tape do i need?

    Thank you.

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    Hi Joe,

    I wonder if you can help- I've been trying to get 15mm front adaptors for my Roval Traversee ELs- the very first version, as pictured here:
    http://www.feedthehabit.com/mountain...eelset-review/

    My specialized dealer is doing their best but they've sent me the wrong adaptors and now seem really confused. Do you know the part numbers? It'd be a big help!

    Thanks,

    Andrew

  99. #699
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryanlrsn7 View Post
    I have a 2012 Stumpjumper Comp Alloy. Came with Roval 29er wheels with 26mm eyelets. (what is the full name of these wheels? Control? ) Also Anyone know 1) if these are tubeless compatible 2) if so, what width tubeless rim tape do i need?

    Thank you.
    I have the same bike with the same wheel set.
    To go tube less I used Stan's 25 mm tape only because my LBS didn't have the 21 mm tape.
    Next roll I'm buying 21 mm.
    ​​
    2015 Flyxii / ENVE /Chris King Carbon 29'er H.T.
    SRAM XX1
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T. SRAM XX1
    1997 Rock Hopper / Rock Shox Recon Silver / 1 x 10 SRAM X9 XO Mix XT V Brake system

  100. #700
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    I have a pair of Specialized Roval Control EL 29er Wheels on my aluminum Stumpjumper hardtail. The freehub makes a clunking sound when my driveside crankarm is at 6:00 o'clock. Any ideas what's causing this and if there is a fix?

    Thanks!

  101. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spillway View Post
    As a follow-up, do you have rim weights for the AL fattie rim? I know they arent sold as rim-only, but I'm curious how the weight is roughly distributed. Thank you again.
    Hi Spillway,
    I'm sorry, but since we only sell the wheels as a system, we don't advertise rim weights.

  102. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Roval Joe, I posted this last week, but am re-posting in case you missed it over the holiday weekend.

    I have a rear 142+ Roval Control Trail 29 SL vintage 2012 (with red graphics) that I am pretty hard on, since it has ended up on my more rugged, long travel bike.

    After two hard-earned broken spokes, I plan to rebuild the wheel with new spokes, which appear from the Roval chart to be DT Supercomp 15G in 299 and 302 lengths.

    Could you confirm these lengths before I order, and also could you recommend a 14G alternative for a bit more beef?

    Thanks!
    Sorry for missing this one earlier! the spoke lengths you have are correct. I cannot recommend a particular spoke other than what we test the wheels with, but you do have the right lengths

  103. #703
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    [QUOTE=Gose;11314195]Roval Joe,
    I searched the entire sticky, but could not find the info I am looking for.

    I have a 2013 Stumpjumper FSR Comp (26"). The bike came stock with a Roval Control Trail (alloy) wheelset. The Specialized website lists these as having "New Specialized Hi Lo disc, 4x

    Gose- the wheelset you have uses a Roval rim, but it is not a Roval wheelset. Roval wheelsets are spec'd generally on expert level bikes and above. So the hubs you have are not DT.

  104. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryanlrsn7 View Post
    I have a 2012 Stumpjumper Comp Alloy. Came with Roval 29er wheels with 26mm eyelets. (what is the full name of these wheels? Control? ) Also Anyone know 1) if these are tubeless compatible 2) if so, what width tubeless rim tape do i need?

    Thank you.
    bryanlrsn7- do you have a Stumpjumper FSR or hardtail? the rims you have are tubeless compatible, but they are not a Roval wheelset, only Roval rims.

  105. #705
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freemincer View Post
    Hi Joe,

    I wonder if you can help- I've been trying to get 15mm front adaptors for my Roval Traversee ELs- the very first version, as pictured here:
    http://www.feedthehabit.com/mountain...eelset-review/

    My specialized dealer is doing their best but they've sent me the wrong adaptors and now seem really confused. Do you know the part numbers? It'd be a big help!

    Thanks,

    Andrew
    Andrew- let me do some digging on this and get back to you.

  106. #706
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    I have a 2013 Rockhopper Pro and I picked up a set of Roval takeoffs from a 2014 Camber Carbon. I think the Roval wheels use a 15mm through axle and my bike has QR. Can I convert the wheels to fit my bike or have I made a terrible mistake?

  107. #707
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    Hi Danny Brown,

    I have a pair of Control 29er wheels that came with both 15mm and QR caps. I used them as QR and the large surface area of the adaptors worked surprisingly well. You should be able to get them through your LBS.

  108. #708
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    Roval Traverse SL FATTIE 650b first ride impressions:

    Quick disclaimer: I have a pair of Control Carbon 29er wheels, and even though my 27.5" isn't a Specialized, I knew instantly that I was ordering a pair of the Fatties as soon as they were available. And I did.

    They came yesterday, and I stayed up too late swapping everything over.

    I had to put on an XD Driver hub, which I had, and that dropped in without any hassle. Swapped over the cassette, rotors, and tires without breaking a sweat. I used a small compressor, but I didn't remove the core, or use soap, and they snapped right into place. I'm confident that a floor pump would easily seat them. It took about 35+ psi for the tires to pop and seat (I'm running a Bontrager XR4 Front/XR3 Rear, both 2.35" at the moment. I'll probably get a Butcher/Ground Control combo to test when the GC's are available in 2.3").

    (Edit: I just want to add that the following experience is not typical and that you should check with your local Roval dealer and rep before trying it yourself.)

    Here's the interesting part, and I'd love to get Roval Joe's input on it. I ordered the 142+ wheels for my 142 spaced Trek Fuel EX 27.5". A Specialized rep said that it would work, but I would need different endcaps to change the spacing. I received the wheels last night, but not the adaptor endcaps - but I was going on a big ride this morning so decided I'd try to put them on and see what I had to do to make it work. What I discovered was that I didn't have to do anything. Not a thing. I checked the limits, they were spot on. The rotor was in the right place. And the shifting was flawless. As far as I could tell, the spacing of everything was identical to the Rhythm Comp wheels that came on the bike.

    Roval Joe: Do you have any experience, or knowledge to share about what I did and how well it worked? Thanks!

    This morning I checked them and they hadn't lost any air at all. I went out with one of my riding buddies and we rode for about two and a half hours. I started with 18psi Front/20psi Rear, but ended around 14/17 psi without any squirm or burp (I'm 185lbs and not very aggressive, but I'm also not very smooth). Ironically, the wheels made me slower at first. I was able to maneuver them/flip them around so easily, and the traction I had was so much greater (on the same tires), that I kept cutting in too hard, or over correcting and scrubbing my speed. By the end of the ride I was having the opposite problem, I'd go into corners way too hard, and the tires would grip, but if I hit a leafy patch wrong the tires would grip the leaves they found right over to the edge of the trail.

    I absolutely had far more grip, the wheels were much lighter, and I could run lower psi without squirm - which helped the tires conform to the terrain.

    I'll need a few more rides to really be able to use them to their full potential, but I'm sold on them - as is my buddy who now really wants a pair for himself as well.

    So this post was a bit long, but the initial impression actually isn't long at all: absolutely bloody fantastic.
    Last edited by jester6578; 07-20-2014 at 11:00 AM.

  109. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Brown View Post
    I have a 2013 Rockhopper Pro and I picked up a set of Roval takeoffs from a 2014 Camber Carbon. I think the Roval wheels use a 15mm through axle and my bike has QR. Can I convert the wheels to fit my bike or have I made a terrible mistake?
    Hey Danny- Do you know which Camber Carbon model your wheels came from? if it was a comp carbon, the wheels are not compatible with qr. If it is a full Roval wheelset that came off a Camber Expert carbon or other, it should be compatible. If you shoot me a photo of the hub, I can confirm.

  110. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    Roval Traverse SL FATTIE 650b first ride impressions:

    Quick disclaimer: I work in a LBS that stocks Specialized, but we also stock a variety of other brands and such, so I have a variety other choices. I have a pair of Control Carbon 29er wheels, and even though my 27.5" isn't a Specialized, I knew instantly that I was ordering a pair of the Fatties as soon as they were available. And I did.

    They came yesterday, and I stayed up too late swapping everything over.

    I had to put on an XD Driver hub, which I had, and that dropped in without any hassle. Swapped over the cassette, rotors, and tires without breaking a sweat. I used a small compressor, but I didn't remove the core, or use soap, and they snapped right into place. I'm confident that a floor pump would easily seat them. It took about 35+ psi for the tires to pop and seat (I'm running a Bontrager XR4 Front/XR3 Rear, both 2.35" at the moment. I'll probably get a Butcher/Ground Control combo to test when the GC's are available in 2.3").

    Here's the interesting part, and I'd love to get Roval Joe's input on it. I ordered the 142+ wheels for my 142 spaced Trek Fuel EX 27.5". Our inside rep said that it would work, but I would need different endcaps to change the spacing. I received the wheels last night, but not the adaptor endcaps - but I was going on a big ride this morning so decided I'd try to put them on and see what I had to do to make it work. What I discovered was that I didn't have to do anything. Not a thing. I checked the limits, they were spot on. The rotor was in the right place. And the shifting was flawless. As far as I could tell, the spacing of everything was identical to the Rhythm Comp wheels that came on the bike.

    Roval Joe: Do you have any experience, or knowledge to share about what I did and how well it worked? Thanks!

    This morning I checked them and they hadn't lost any air at all. I went out with one of my riding buddies and we rode for about two and a half hours. I started with 18psi Front/20psi Rear, but ended around 14/17 psi without any squirm or burp (I'm 185lbs and not very aggressive, but I'm also not very smooth). Ironically, the wheels made me slower at first. I was able to maneuver them/flip them around so easily, and the traction I had was so much greater (on the same tires), that I kept cutting in too hard, or over correcting and scrubbing my speed. By the end of the ride I was having the opposite problem, I'd go into corners way too hard, and the tires would grip, but if I hit a leafy patch wrong the tires would grip the leaves they found right over to the edge of the trail.

    I absolutely had far more grip, the wheels were much lighter, and I could run lower psi without squirm - which helped the tires conform to the terrain.

    I'll need a few more rides to really be able to use them to their full potential, but I'm sold on them - as is my buddy who now really wants a pair for himself as well.

    So this post was a bit long, but the initial impression actually isn't long at all: absolutely bloody fantastic.
    Jester6578- Thanks a ton for your first impressions! glad you are liking them! Ok, I had to cringe a bit when I read that one of our reps actually told you the 142+ would work with your non-Specialized frame. I'm not sure how familiar you are with the difference between 142 and 142+, but on our 142+ design, the drive side spoke flange and freehub (cassette also by default) are pushed out an additional 2mm to gain stiffness in the wheel. On many non specialized frames, this usually means the chain will hit the frame when in the smallest cog. If you are not experiencing this issue, then it's just a lucky coincidence that it works. Just curious, did you happen to use the tubeless plugs, or just run the rim strip? Thanks again for the feedback.

  111. #711
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    Re: Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Danny- Do you know which Camber Carbon model your wheels came from? if it was a comp carbon, the wheels are not compatible with qr. If it is a full Roval wheelset that came off a Camber Expert carbon or other, it should be compatible. If you shoot me a photo of the hub, I can confirm.
    I'm afraid it was a comp. Is it worth changing to hubs or should I just resale them and keep looking? Thanks for all the help. This is all pretty confusing to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Jester6578- Thanks a ton for your first impressions! glad you are liking them! Ok, I had to cringe a bit when I read that one of our reps actually told you the 142+ would work with your non-Specialized frame. I'm not sure how familiar you are with the difference between 142 and 142+, but on our 142+ design, the drive side spoke flange and freehub (cassette also by default) are pushed out an additional 2mm to gain stiffness in the wheel. On many non specialized frames, this usually means the chain will hit the frame when in the smallest cog. If you are not experiencing this issue, then it's just a lucky coincidence that it works. Just curious, did you happen to use the tubeless plugs, or just run the rim strip? Thanks again for the feedback.
    Hey Joe,

    To clarify, he said they could be used IF I used special adapters which would move the hub 1mm away from the drive side - mitigating half of the 2mm shift.

    When I decided to try them without the adapters I planned, and expected to, adjust the limits to lock out my 10t ring to prevent the chain from hitting the frame. Hence my surprise when it actually fit perfectly with the spacing from my previous wheel. It worked for me, but I will monitor it closely. I wanted to pass along my experience to you in case it helped. The bike I was using it on is a 2014 Trek Fuel EX 9 27.5" (alloy frame) in an 18.5".

    For everyone reading this: my experience is likely NOT normal, so please do not try to repeat this without consulting your local authorized Roval dealer and tech representative.


    I'm still using the strips that it came with the wheels. I wanted to get them mounted up as quickly as possible. When I swap tires over again I'll try out the plugs and let you know!


    If anyone is considering these wheels: get them. I didn't get carbon wheels to be light weight wheels (though they are), I got them because they are stiff and strong as anything I've ridden. The added width really does add stability as well as traction, without adding much rolling resistance. And for the price there's really nothing that can compete with the quality and performance.

  113. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Brown View Post
    I'm afraid it was a comp. Is it worth changing to hubs or should I just resale them and keep looking? Thanks for all the help. This is all pretty confusing to me.
    Hi Danny, yeah, there's a lot of info out there on bike parts, and it's not always easy to know what is compatible with what. If I were you I'd sell these and look for something else.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Andrew- let me do some digging on this and get back to you.
    Thanks, I appreciate it!

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    Re: Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hi Danny, yeah, there's a lot of info out there on bike parts, and it's not always easy to know what is compatible with what. If I were you I'd sell these and look for something else.
    Thanks Joe. I guess I'm back to looking.

  116. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freemincer View Post
    Thanks, I appreciate it!
    Andrew, I think I found the endcaps you need:
    S2030049 (right side)
    S2030050 (left/disc side)

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    Hi Joe, I'm racing the Trans-Savoie in Aug and am trying to find some traverse fattie SL 29's in 142+ for my 2014 Enduro Expert (sick bike BTW, you guys nailed it) so I can run lower PSI over all that sharp rock in the Alps. Dealer told me no dice until Sept????

  118. #718
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    Roval Joe, What XD driver do I need for the hubs on the new Traverse SL Fatties? DT Swiss? Thanks!

  119. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by floormat View Post
    Hi Joe, I'm racing the Trans-Savoie in Aug and am trying to find some traverse fattie SL 29's in 142+ for my 2014 Enduro Expert (sick bike BTW, you guys nailed it) so I can run lower PSI over all that sharp rock in the Alps. Dealer told me no dice until Sept????
    Nevermind, found a set! Pumped!!!

  120. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    Roval Joe, What XD driver do I need for the hubs on the new Traverse SL Fatties? DT Swiss? Thanks!
    yeah, it needs to be the DT Swiss driver, and there are 3 different options:
    - 135mm/qr
    - 142mm/12mm thru
    - 142+/12mm thru

    the drivers themselves are all the same, but since they come with a specific end cap, they are sold as separate part numbers.

  121. #721
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    Quote Originally Posted by floormat View Post
    Nevermind, found a set! Pumped!!!
    Cool, glad you got sorted!

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    G'day Roval Joe,

    I am having a heap of trouble breaking spokes in the rear wheel of a 2013 set of Roval Traverse wheels. in the past 12 months i have broken 8 non drive side spokes and 1 drive side. (and one front spoke for good measure)

    I am a heavy rider (240 lbs) so i was planning on buying a full set of DT Swiss straight gauge 2mm Champion spokes and pro lock nipples and having the wheels rebuilt to try and make the wheels more solid.

    i bought them on the basis that they are one of the few wheels with no rider weight limit.

    Can i just take the spoke lengths from your table and buy standard DT Swiss Spokes and nipples to have them replaced? Buying a full set of spokes as spare parts would be very expensive in Australia.

  123. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick_99 View Post
    G'day Roval Joe,

    I am having a heap of trouble breaking spokes in the rear wheel of a 2013 set of Roval Traverse wheels. in the past 12 months i have broken 8 non drive side spokes and 1 drive side. (and one front spoke for good measure)

    I am a heavy rider (240 lbs) so i was planning on buying a full set of DT Swiss straight gauge 2mm Champion spokes and pro lock nipples and having the wheels rebuilt to try and make the wheels more solid.

    i bought them on the basis that they are one of the few wheels with no rider weight limit.

    Can i just take the spoke lengths from your table and buy standard DT Swiss Spokes and nipples to have them replaced? Buying a full set of spokes as spare parts would be very expensive in Australia.
    Hi Mick_99, we have seen a few rear hubs where the spoke holes were drilled incorrectly, and we think this might be causing your spoke issue. Would it be possible to return your wheel to the dealer for evaluation? They would need to contact our service center for this. Because it's in Australia, I'd like to be in contact with them direct to see what the outcome is. If you don't mind, would you please PM me the name of the shop you are going to, and I'll contact Specialized Australia about it?

    thanks!

  124. #724
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    thank you for your quick reply Joe. I make arrangements with my local specialized dealer and send you a PM.

  125. #725
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    Roval Joe - can you tell me/get me the specs on the Roval Ti skewers listed not the Specy site in the Roval wheel section? No weight listed. Want to compare to the ones that came with my after-market Roval Controls. Thanks!
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  126. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Roval Joe - can you tell me/get me the specs on the Roval Ti skewers listed not the Specy site in the Roval wheel section? No weight listed. Want to compare to the ones that came with my after-market Roval Controls. Thanks!
    TiGeo- Just weighed a set of the ti QR's at 107g. Anything else in particular you wanted to know about them?

  127. #727
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    Hi Roval Joe,
    Can you tell me when the alloy version of the new Traverse Fatties will be available?
    Thanks
    Mr_Mojorisen

  128. #728
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    TiGeo- Just weighed a set of the ti QR's at 107g. Anything else in particular you wanted to know about them?
    Just was curious as to the weight; weighed the stock ones that came with my Roval Controls...128g.
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  129. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by oheckler View Post
    Hi Roval Joe,
    Can you tell me when the alloy version of the new Traverse Fatties will be available?
    Thanks
    oheckler- Are you in the USA or somewhere else?

  130. #730
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Just was curious as to the weight; weighed the stock ones that came with my Roval Controls...128g.
    TiGeo- We stopped offering the ti skewers a couple years ago, and now the wheels come with RWS levers that have a steel skewer, so this may be the difference?

  131. #731
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    Re: Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    TiGeo- We stopped offering the ti skewers a couple years ago, and now the wheels come with RWS levers that have a steel skewer, so this may be the difference?
    The Specy website shows Ti skewers. My Roval Controls came with standard skewers...not RWS.
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  132. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    The Specy website shows Ti skewers. My Roval Controls came with standard skewers...not RWS.
    TiGeo- thanks for pointing this out, I'll try to get this fixed ASAP. Would you mind sending me a link to where you're seeing this though? when I look at all the Control wheel models on the USA sight, I'm only seeing "QR: Roval RWS" on the features tab for every model.

  133. #733
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    Here are the skewers:
    Specialized Bicycle Components

    And yes, it is listed that the alloy Controls come with RWS which they don't, just standard 9mm QRs:
    Specialized Bicycle Components
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  134. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Here are the skewers:
    Specialized Bicycle Components

    And yes, it is listed that the alloy Controls come with RWS which they don't, just standard 9mm QRs:
    Specialized Bicycle Components
    Ti Geo,
    thanks for this. We've had a bit of a communication breakdown here, and that's my fault. We still have Ti QR skewers that are offered as an aftermarket, stand alone item, but we no longer include them with any of the wheels. Reason for that is they add a lot of cost to the wheels, and nowadays less and less people are using QR's, even on lightweight XC bikes. It's possible that the wheels you bought were manufactured before we made this change, and that is why you have QR levers with yours.

  135. #735
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    oheckler- Are you in the USA or somewhere else?
    I'm in NorCal!
    Mr_Mojorisen

  136. #736
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    Quote Originally Posted by oheckler View Post
    I'm in NorCal!
    oheckler- 650b versions will be available next week, and 29's will be at the end of September.

  137. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Andrew, I think I found the endcaps you need:
    S2030049 (right side)
    S2030050 (left/disc side)
    Hi Joe,

    Sorry but those are the ones I already have I think they fit a later model, they don't fit either my early (2008?) Traversee ELs or my Controls (no idea what year those are, silver rim 26ers)

    Would you mind checking again? Or in fact, even a code for the QR or 20mm adaptors would be useful as I could machine them to do the job. But better to do it right

    Cheers

    Andrew

  138. #738
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    Hello. Do the roval control 29er carbon wheels and the control sl 29er use the same rim and just have different spoke counts? Or is there something different about the control sl layup and / or hubs? Just bought a 2015 epic expert wc to replace my 2011 epic expert evo and trying to decide if I should upgrade the wheels to current control sl.

    If it is the same wheel but just fewer spokes, is there a measurable change in stiffness?

  139. #739
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    Did some searching after I posted, looks like the rear hub is a 350 on the control and 240 on the sl. Correct? Is the xd driver body that comes stock on my 2015 expert wc compatible with the rear hub of the sl wheel set? Does the drive side end cap need to be changed with that as well?

  140. #740
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    Hi Roval Joe,

    What is the warranty on the aftermarket Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels? The website masterlink customer self help states lifetime warranty, excluding wear and tear.

    But this link http://service.specialized.com/colla...0000034485.pdf states for model year 2014, only a 3 year warranty.

    Do the Control 29 Carbon's have a crash replacement policy?

    The Traverse Fattie supposedly has lifetime warranty with a crash replacement policy. I can't locate an official Specialized doc that states this, but all the bike websites stated this.

  141. #741
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    Hey again roval joe

    I want to install a new 22 sram red groupset in my bike and I have a roval rapide sl 45 wheels from 2012 I want to know if this is possible ? I will need the 11 speed freewheel right?? is available?? a guy in lbs told me that it could fit the 2014 ones thanks

  142. #742
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    Hey Joe,
    I've got a Roval Control wheelset (aluminum) 2012 or 13 not sure. The front rim is toast and needs to be replaced. My LBS says they can just order a new rim and reuse the spokes. I've been wanting to get a wheelset with wider rims so I was wondering if I can just have them order a Traverse or Trail Control rim and still reuse the same spokes?
    Thanks
    Mr_Mojorisen

  143. #743
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    Just picked up a set of Fattie SL 29's. What is the benefit of using plugs vs. tape? I read that the plugs are lighter but why not just install them instead of tape at the factory? What is the weight difference?
    The LPG

  144. #744
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    Just picked up a set of Fattie SL 29's. What is the benefit of using plugs vs. tape? I read that the plugs are lighter but why not just install them instead of tape at the factory? What is the weight difference?
    Here ya go: http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-componen...es-922275.html
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  145. #745
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    Awesome! Thanks.
    The LPG

  146. #746
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    To Roval Joe,

    Is it possible to order the plugs separately? What size hole are they specified for?

    Thanks,

    Bryan
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  147. #747
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    Corrosion problems

    Hey Joe,

    I have some 2013 Roval Control carbon 29er wheels that I bought new. Over the past year I have had several rear spokes break at the hub and today while adjusting the front breaks using my hand to spin the wheel a front spoke pulled loose from the rim. The nipple was completely corroded. I can also hear stuff rolling around in the rear rim ( with no tire on rim). The bike is kept in a garage and I usually give it a sponge bath and very seldom ride through any water so just a little disappointed in a otherwise awesome wheel set. I dropped the front wheel off at the dealer where I bought them and they said they would let me know in a few days. I have my old wheels to put on my bike, but can't use the rear wheel because the bike is now set up for the XX1 which is one reason I bought the new wheels. Just wanted to know if you have had any other issues like these and what was done about it.

    Thanks David
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  148. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlennard View Post
    Hey Joe,

    I have some 2013 Roval Control carbon 29er wheels that I bought new. Over the past year I have had several rear spokes break at the hub and today while adjusting the front breaks using my hand to spin the wheel a front spoke pulled loose from the rim. The nipple was completely corroded. I can also hear stuff rolling around in the rear rim ( with no tire on rim). The bike is kept in a garage and I usually give it a sponge bath and very seldom ride through any water so just a little disappointed in a otherwise awesome wheel set. I dropped the front wheel off at the dealer where I bought them and they said they would let me know in a few days. I have my old wheels to put on my bike, but can't use the rear wheel because the bike is now set up for the XX1 which is one reason I bought the new wheels. Just wanted to know if you have had any other issues like these and what was done about it.

    Thanks David
    I will be interested to hear RJ's response to this. Between my endurance racing team mate and myself, we own four of these wheels, between one and three years old. This year, we both started breaking spokes, mostly right at the hub, but occasionally inside the nipple.

    I've heard there can be corrosion issues associated with the combination of steel spokes, aluminum nipples and carbon rims, but have no details on this.

    It finally got to the point that we both had our rear wheels re-laced with new spokes and brass nipples.

    So far, so good. Fingers crossed!
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  149. #749
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    I will be interested to hear RJ's response to this. Between my endurance racing team mate and myself, we own four of these wheels, between one and three years old. This year, we both started breaking spokes, mostly right at the hub, but occasionally inside the nipple.

    I've heard there can be corrosion issues associated with the combination of steel spokes, aluminum nipples and carbon rims, but have no details on this.

    It finally got to the point that we both had our rear wheels re-laced with new spokes and brass nipples.



    So far, so good. Fingers crossed!

    Did you use different spokes or oem?

  150. #750
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    Quote Originally Posted by dlennard View Post
    Did you use different spokes or oem?
    OEM DT Revolutions on one wheel (I believe stock was Supercomps, so one gage "thicker") and un-butted DT Comps on the other wheel, which is on the big, squishy bike, and maybe sees a bit more abuse, but also has more travel to cushion the wheel from abuse.

    Getting spokes out of Specialized was like pulling teeth. Three weeks of being told "not in stock", then somebody more important answered the phone, and pulled spokes from their warranty/repair stock.

    Absolutely unforgivable to not have spokes for your flagship wheels in July. No excuse, and no other source, and this will likely keep me from ever buying another set of these wheels.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  151. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    OEM DT Revolutions on one wheel (I believe stock was Supercomps, so one gage "thicker") and un-butted DT Comps on the other wheel, which is on the big, squishy bike, and maybe sees a bit more abuse, but also has more travel to cushion the wheel from abuse.

    Getting spokes out of Specialized was like pulling teeth. Three weeks of being told "not in stock", then somebody more important answered the phone, and pulled spokes from their warranty/repair stock.

    Absolutely unforgivable to not have spokes for your flagship wheels in July. No excuse, and no other source, and this will likely keep me from ever buying another set of these wheels.
    Hey thanks for the info.

  152. #752
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    [QUOTE=Freemincer;11363632]Hi Joe,

    Sorry but those are the ones I already have I think they fit a later model, they don't fit either my early (2008?) Traversee ELs or my Controls (no idea what year those are, silver rim 26ers)

    Would you mind checking again? Or in fact, even a code for the QR or 20mm adaptors would be useful as I could machine them to do the job. But better to do it right

    Cheers

    Andrew, I'm sorry to be giving you the run around here! I've been looking and cannot seem to find any part number for these caps. I'm not sure they were ever ordered or created back when the wheels were made.

  153. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdb View Post
    Hi Roval Joe,

    What is the warranty on the aftermarket Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels? The website masterlink customer self help states lifetime warranty, excluding wear and tear.

    But this link http://service.specialized.com/colla...0000034485.pdf states for model year 2014, only a 3 year warranty.

    Do the Control 29 Carbon's have a crash replacement policy?

    The Traverse Fattie supposedly has lifetime warranty with a crash replacement policy. I can't locate an official Specialized doc that states this, but all the bike websites stated this.
    rdb- the original warranty was lifetime, but last year a change was made to our warranty, and for wheels bought after the time of the updated warranty, wheels now have 3 year warranty, which is fairly industry standard for mtn wheels. All of our carbon wheels have a crash replacement policy, and you can get the rim at a heavily discounted price thru this policy. If you run into an issue getting our crash replacement policy, please let me know which shop you're dealing with and I'll help you sort it out. Lastly, to clarify about the Fatties, they have a 3 year warranty, like the other wheels we are making at this point.

  154. #754
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    Quote Originally Posted by andresco50 View Post
    Hey again roval joe

    I want to install a new 22 sram red groupset in my bike and I have a roval rapide sl 45 wheels from 2012 I want to know if this is possible ? I will need the 11 speed freewheel right?? is available?? a guy in lbs told me that it could fit the 2014 ones thanks
    Hey Andresco50! I don't know the answer off the top of my head, but I will find out and get back to you. I manage the mountain line of wheels, and a different person does the road wheels. I'll be back to you as soon as I can confirm

  155. #755
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancelot View Post
    Just picked up a set of Fattie SL 29's. What is the benefit of using plugs vs. tape? I read that the plugs are lighter but why not just install them instead of tape at the factory? What is the weight difference?
    Lancelot- great question. The plugs were something new we're doing for this year, and were unsure of what the reaction would be to them. We get a lot of positive feedback about how easy it is for shops to install tubeless systems on our wheels and pump up using a floor pump, and when you put the plugs in, the seal is still pretty easy, but not quite as easy as the rim strips. So we decided to leave the rim strips on and include the plugs for riders who want to save the weight (60g per set). If we find that nobody is complaining about setup with the plugs, we may do away with the rim strips down the road altogether.

  156. #756
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryan_d View Post
    To Roval Joe,

    Is it possible to order the plugs separately? What size hole are they specified for?

    Thanks,

    Bryan
    Hey Bryan, good question, but let me clarify first- these plugs are designed only to work with our carbon Fatties. Reason for this is two fold: first, you need a wide rim to use these since the rim bed has to be flat where the plug contacts the rim. Otherwise the plug will not be able to completely engage and seal. Secondly, our aluminum Fattie rims are a different thickness at the rim bed than carbon, so the plugs may not work well (again, plug won't be able to fully engage with rim), so we only include them for now with our carbon Fatties. We are working on slightly different plugs for alloy Fatties now.

    Because of this reason, shops will only be able to order them as a service part, in case you are rebuilding a wheel or something.

  157. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by oheckler View Post
    Hey Joe,
    I've got a Roval Control wheelset (aluminum) 2012 or 13 not sure. The front rim is toast and needs to be replaced. My LBS says they can just order a new rim and reuse the spokes. I've been wanting to get a wheelset with wider rims so I was wondering if I can just have them order a Traverse or Trail Control rim and still reuse the same spokes?
    Thanks
    oheckler- I'm not 100% sure which wheels you currently have, but I don't believe the spoke count will be the same, so you would not be able to order Fattie rims. Hole count on these is 24f and 28r.

  158. #758
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    rdb- the original warranty was lifetime, but last year a change was made to our warranty, and for wheels bought after the time of the updated warranty, wheels now have 3 year warranty, which is fairly industry standard for mtn wheels. All of our carbon wheels have a crash replacement policy, and you can get the rim at a heavily discounted price thru this policy. If you run into an issue getting our crash replacement policy, please let me know which shop you're dealing with and I'll help you sort it out. Lastly, to clarify about the Fatties, they have a 3 year warranty, like the other wheels we are making at this point.
    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for clarifying. The 3 year versus lifetime warranty isn't an issue for me. 3 years should be enough time to uncover a manufacturing defect. I was more concerned about crash replacement. I just got the wheels and I hope to never damage them in a crash, but nice to know I can get them repaired at a reasonable cost if I do damage them.

    Ray

  159. #759
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    Joe, On the Roval Traverse carbon Fatties, are two different hubs being used? One for 142+ and another for standard 142, or just different end caps with the same hub?
    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by dlennard View Post
    Hey Joe,

    I have some 2013 Roval Control carbon 29er wheels that I bought new. Over the past year I have had several rear spokes break at the hub and today while adjusting the front breaks using my hand to spin the wheel a front spoke pulled loose from the rim. The nipple was completely corroded. I can also hear stuff rolling around in the rear rim ( with no tire on rim). The bike is kept in a garage and I usually give it a sponge bath and very seldom ride through any water so just a little disappointed in a otherwise awesome wheel set. I dropped the front wheel off at the dealer where I bought them and they said they would let me know in a few days. I have my old wheels to put on my bike, but can't use the rear wheel because the bike is now set up for the XX1 which is one reason I bought the new wheels. Just wanted to know if you have had any other issues like these and what was done about it.

    Thanks David
    Hey David, we have seen this problem before, but it is not universal. We've been doing a load of different tests here at the office to determine what causes it, and from what we can tell, there are a number of factors. I won't bore you with all the details, but it is not something we have good data on as far as how many of our customers are actually having issues with this. Because of this though, we'll offer to rebuild your wheel with brass nipples (this goes for other original customers with the same issue). We've been working on the details internally for a couple months, but should have them posted to shops soon. Go ahead and PM me on what shop you'd be going thru and we can work with them on getting you going ASAP.

    It will be great for us to learn how many people in the field are experiencing this problem.

  161. #761
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    I will be interested to hear RJ's response to this. Between my endurance racing team mate and myself, we own four of these wheels, between one and three years old. This year, we both started breaking spokes, mostly right at the hub, but occasionally inside the nipple.

    I've heard there can be corrosion issues associated with the combination of steel spokes, aluminum nipples and carbon rims, but have no details on this.

    It finally got to the point that we both had our rear wheels re-laced with new spokes and brass nipples.

    So far, so good. Fingers crossed!
    Kosmo- let me know how this goes. If you did not see any signs of corrosion like David shows (similar to car battery terminal, white dust, etc), then you were not likely having a nipple corrosion issue. If only the spokes were breaking, this would be a different problem, but I'd like to work with you to sort out what was going on. Let me know if you start experiencing these problems again.

  162. #762
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdqmach26 View Post
    Joe, On the Roval Traverse carbon Fatties, are two different hubs being used? One for 142+ and another for standard 142, or just different end caps with the same hub?
    Thanks
    pdqmach26- yes, these are actually 2 different hubs. One wheelset comes with a 135mm hub which is convertible to standard 142mm via endcaps which are included with the wheel. The other set uses a hub that is actually 2mm wider than the standard hub, and typically does not work with other manufacturers frames.

  163. #763
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    Quote Originally Posted by andresco50 View Post
    Hey again roval joe

    I want to install a new 22 sram red groupset in my bike and I have a roval rapide sl 45 wheels from 2012 I want to know if this is possible ? I will need the 11 speed freewheel right?? is available?? a guy in lbs told me that it could fit the 2014 ones thanks
    Andresco50- Ok, I learned that you cannot use the 11spd cassette on the freehub that came with your wheels. You'll need to get the 11spd freehub, and the DT part# for that is HWYABX00S2775S

  164. #764
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    Does anyone have any real world experience with the Fattie Aluminum rims, they look like a great lightweight set up but I am concerned that the low spoke count results in too much flex with the Aluminum rim...

  165. #765
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    RJ, I have in front of me a roval control 29" rear wheel. The customers Bontrager 29-3 2.3 Expert goes on and off like one should expect a tire to. Unfortunately, a WTB Bronson 2.2 TSC isn't remotely close to fitting this rim. The Kevlar bead is in the valley of the rim the entire way around to accommodate some slack, but the bead then shoots across 6 spokes in a straight line leaving an inch and a half between the bead and the rim! Are tires now incompatible with rims? Do we need to test all tire/rim combinations? Is there a list? I'm not sure how customers will respond to only certain tires fit certain rims. I'm not blaming you or WTB, but where's the standardization? Ttyl, Fahn
    Hubbard Bike Club

  166. #766
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    I've got a pair of older Hutchy Toro and Bulldog's that are the same. The Bulldog was so bad, I thought I was going to snap the bead or bugger the rim.
    Of course, now I've decided I don't really like them, there's no way they're coming off until they're bald and they're wearing like iron.

  167. #767
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    I'm curious why the Traverse Fattie SL went from $1200 last week to $1500 now. They seemed more inline with the Control carbon ($1200) than with the Control SL ($1800).

    That $300 price jump pushed from "high on my list" to "I can get two sets of Chinese carbon rims (same specs) built up to DT 350 hubs for cheaper".
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  168. #768
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarryFahn View Post
    RJ, I have in front of me a roval control 29" rear wheel. The customers Bontrager 29-3 2.3 Expert goes on and off like one should expect a tire to. Unfortunately, a WTB Bronson 2.2 TSC isn't remotely close to fitting this rim. The Kevlar bead is in the valley of the rim the entire way around to accommodate some slack, but the bead then shoots across 6 spokes in a straight line leaving an inch and a half between the bead and the rim! Are tires now incompatible with rims? Do we need to test all tire/rim combinations? Is there a list? I'm not sure how customers will respond to only certain tires fit certain rims. I'm not blaming you or WTB, but where's the standardization? Ttyl, Fahn
    LarryFahn- I have heard from another customer that the WTB's were almost impossible to mount on these rims, and honestly I don't have a good reason for you to why this is. We tested a number of tires, but not every single combination available. I'll check with the engineer, but I don't think we changed any of the dimensions that would make tires harder to mount on them. Let me get back to you on this one.

  169. #769
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    I've got a pair of older Hutchy Toro and Bulldog's that are the same. The Bulldog was so bad, I thought I was going to snap the bead or bugger the rim.
    Of course, now I've decided I don't really like them, there's no way they're coming off until they're bald and they're wearing like iron.
    NordieBoy- are your wheels 29" also?

  170. #770
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    I'm curious why the Traverse Fattie SL went from $1200 last week to $1500 now. They seemed more inline with the Control carbon ($1200) than with the Control SL ($1800).

    That $300 price jump pushed from "high on my list" to "I can get two sets of Chinese carbon rims (same specs) built up to DT 350 hubs for cheaper".
    Mr. Lynch, Original MSRP on the wheels was $1400, and those responsible for setting pricing decided to change it to $1500.

  171. #771
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    Hi I'm wondering if the Roval Control Trail wheels aren't being made anymore now that the Fattie wheels are here. I can't see them listed on the Spec website.

  172. #772
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOHNRB View Post
    Hi I'm wondering if the Roval Control Trail wheels aren't being made anymore now that the Fattie wheels are here. I can't see them listed on the Spec website.
    Johnrb- you are correct, Control Trail wheels are discontinued now.

  173. #773
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    Joe - do the Roval fattie aluminum rims use a 350 rear hub? need to change mine out from a standard 135x12 to a 142x12 XD driver wanted to make sure the standard DT driver will work

  174. #774
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltik View Post
    Joe - do the Roval fattie aluminum rims use a 350 rear hub? need to change mine out from a standard 135x12 to a 142x12 XD driver wanted to make sure the standard DT driver will work
    baltik- the alloy fatties use a 360 rear hub, which is different than the 350. However, you can still get an XD driver for this hub, and convert it from 135 to 142mm.

  175. #775
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOHNRB View Post
    Hi I'm wondering if the Roval Control Trail wheels aren't being made anymore now that the Fattie wheels are here. I can't see them listed on the Spec website.
    You can still get them under Wheels > Outlet while they last. Got mine delivered today, 26" oh yeah.

  176. #776
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    Roval Joe, I have a set of Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels. Model year 2014. I noticed the specialized website lists valve stems for these rims. Will the MY15 Control Carbon/Alloy = red rim shaped seal valve stems work on on a 2014 Control 29 carbon rim? The one issue I had was the valve stems that came with the wheels only sealed up okay. These new stems look like they would seal better. I'm just not sure if the rim strip or rim shape changed from the MY 15 rims.

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  178. #778
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    Joe, when I mount the front wheel of my new Control Trail SL's to the Fox Float on my 2013 Stumpjumper FSR there is a slight play side to side at the tire. The 15mm thru axle end caps that were included have an OD of 19mm but my original wheel and the cutout in the fork measure 21 mm OD. Is there some other end cap I should have? The number printed on the caps I have is S125900010.

    Thanks for any help.

  179. #779
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    Hi JR thanks for taking the time to answer all our questions about Roval wheels. Great service by the way specially coming from big company like Specialized.
    I just purchased Control Carbon 29, do they come with 18t or 36t ratchet system? Your website show it has a quick engagement but no indication if it is 18t or 36t. can I upgrade to new 54t?

    Thanks in advance.

  180. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdb View Post
    Roval Joe, I have a set of Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels. Model year 2014. I noticed the specialized website lists valve stems for these rims. Will the MY15 Control Carbon/Alloy = red rim shaped seal valve stems work on on a 2014 Control 29 carbon rim? The one issue I had was the valve stems that came with the wheels only sealed up okay. These new stems look like they would seal better. I'm just not sure if the rim strip or rim shape changed from the MY 15 rims.
    rdb- the new valves with red seals are for sure the ones you want, there were no changes to the rim bed/rim strip from '14 to '15.

  181. #781
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08_Yukon hard tail View Post
    Hi JR thanks for taking the time to answer all our questions about Roval wheels. Great service by the way specially coming from big company like Specialized.
    I just purchased Control Carbon 29, do they come with 18t or 36t ratchet system? Your website show it has a quick engagement but no indication if it is 18t or 36t. can I upgrade to new 54t?

    Thanks in advance.
    08_Yukon hard tail- The control carbon 29 wheels come with a 36t engagement ratchet. If you wanted to change to 54t ratchets, they will work, no problem, but I do not have an aftermarket part number for them. Let me check with DT and see if they carry them for AM purchase.

  182. #782
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    Hi Roval Joe. I'd be interested to find out why Roval decided to move away from the DT 240 on the Fattie wheels. I have 2013 Traverse SL wheels and love them--not sure if I should be looking to move the wheels to future bikes or go with the Traverse Fatties.

  183. #783
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    In desperate search for a rear Roval Control Carbon SL 29 (2011) wheel. Current wheel was ran over and destroyed. Love the wheelset and would really like to match the front (red spokes and graphics). If anyone on here knows of anyone selling a rear that is 135mm and NOT 142+ shoot me a private message.

    Thanks

  184. #784
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    Roval questions?

    Mr. Roval Joe,

    What is the recommended spoke tension for roval traverse 29er rims? Purchased in 2014 I believe. Thanks!
    If it ain't 900 fill power it's crap. :thumbsup:

  185. #785
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey David, we have seen this problem before, but it is not universal. We've been doing a load of different tests here at the office to determine what causes it, and from what we can tell, there are a number of factors. I won't bore you with all the details, but it is not something we have good data on as far as how many of our customers are actually having issues with this. Because of this though, we'll offer to rebuild your wheel with brass nipples (this goes for other original customers with the same issue). We've been working on the details internally for a couple months, but should have them posted to shops soon. Go ahead and PM me on what shop you'd be going thru and we can work with them on getting you going ASAP.

    It will be great for us to learn how many people in the field are experiencing this problem.
    Thanks for the reply Joe. My dealer took care of the wheels and I am back riding again. Thanks also for making a great product and spending so much time answering the questions on this website.

    David

  186. #786
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Hi Roval Joe. I'd be interested to find out why Roval decided to move away from the DT 240 on the Fattie wheels. I have 2013 Traverse SL wheels and love them--not sure if I should be looking to move the wheels to future bikes or go with the Traverse Fatties.
    masterhoss56- To be honest, we didn't "move away" from the 240 based hub, as you mention, it's a great hub. We chose to use the 350 hub instead in order to keep the wheel price at an attainable level. 350 hubs are not quite as light as the 240's, but use the same basic design.

  187. #787
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08_Yukon hard tail View Post
    Hi JR thanks for taking the time to answer all our questions about Roval wheels. Great service by the way specially coming from big company like Specialized.
    I just purchased Control Carbon 29, do they come with 18t or 36t ratchet system? Your website show it has a quick engagement but no indication if it is 18t or 36t. can I upgrade to new 54t?

    Thanks in advance.
    ok, just got word back that DT does not offer 54t ratchets in AM, they are only offering this as an OE spec.

  188. #788
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcomer78 View Post
    In desperate search for a rear Roval Control Carbon SL 29 (2011) wheel. Current wheel was ran over and destroyed. Love the wheelset and would really like to match the front (red spokes and graphics). If anyone on here knows of anyone selling a rear that is 135mm and NOT 142+ shoot me a private message.

    Thanks
    mcomer78- if you are the original owner of the wheel, you can take it back to your shop and purchase a crash replacement rim for it.

  189. #789
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopshomes View Post
    Mr. Roval Joe,

    What is the recommended spoke tension for roval traverse 29er rims? Purchased in 2014 I believe. Thanks!
    just to be clear, are you referring to alloy or carbon?

  190. #790
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    just to be clear, are you referring to alloy or carbon?
    Sorry!! Alloy. Bad post by me. Should have been more specific. Thanks!


    Just give me a worthy steed between my legs and I'll be happy.
    If it ain't 900 fill power it's crap. :thumbsup:

  191. #791
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    Joe, I have a specialized carve comp '13 I just purchased new from my lbs three weeks ago. They are already warrantying the wheels and have given me two choices:

    1) Get a free upgrade to the next level up (no clue what the name is or even what I have.. link to my carve is Specialized Bicycle Components) Unfortunately they claim to be out of stock with no timeline on that one, so they are offering...

    2) A $500 credit toward the purchase of any upgrade. The one my lbs is pushing me toward apparently retails for $750, and I can't for the life of me find it on the net and don't know the name other than roval 29 (the step below the carbon model)

    I weigh 240 pounds, and am really tired of driving across to my lbs. What should I do?

    Scott

  192. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopshomes View Post
    Sorry!! Alloy. Bad post by me. Should have been more specific. Thanks!


    Just give me a worthy steed between my legs and I'll be happy.
    Snoopshomes- no worries, that was actually my fault. Turns out there is not a difference between the alloy/carbon. All our Roval handbuilt wheelsets use 1100 Newtons as the tension, plus or minus 100 N.

  193. #793
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    Roval questions?

    Thanks! I appreciate it!


    Just give me a worthy steed between my legs and I'll be happy.
    If it ain't 900 fill power it's crap. :thumbsup:

  194. #794
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    Hi Roval Jo
    Last edited by turps; 02-14-2018 at 04:26 PM.

  195. #795
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    Cool-blue Rhythm replacement wheel

    Joe
    First off, thanks for all the help and info you provide.
    My lbs is sending my rear carbon roval control trail sl (year 2011)
    to Specialized as the carbon is delaminating and cracking along where
    the tire sits. My lbs said that it is covered under warranty and it would be replaced.
    My question is, will specialized replace the rim and relace or will they
    replace the complete wheel?
    Thanks again.....

  196. #796
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    Hi Roval Joe,

    I have a 2014 S-Works Stumpjumper HT World Cup which I like to change into the RS-1 fork and was wondering if Specialized has the proper adapters/end caps to fit this fork? I believe the current front wheel Roval SL spacing is 100 whereas RS-1 requires a 110 spacing hub. Please advise. Thanks.

  197. #797
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    ok, just got word back that DT does not offer 54t ratchets in AM, they are only offering this as an OE spec.
    Joe thanks for your reply. I was able to source one from Fair Wheel bikes from Arizona and I got the last one.

  198. #798
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    Will share an a recent 29er SL Roval experience.

    2014 Epic WC expert with upgraded SL wheels, I'm 5'6 138lbs. Tires were at 30psi while riding on a fire road. Did a small 1/2ft jump, a non event really, and the Rim crack on one side not the other.

    Specialized would not warranty. Disappointing. Need it replaced anyway and after taking a week to "review" pictures and get back to my LBS they send a front Rim instead of a Rear. I paid for expedited shipment, and guess what? Still stuck with the expedited shipment cost. Not sure if that is on LBS or specialized... but you can see the less than ideal sequence of activity.

    In any case, if they are as fragile as I'm reading that would suck, or I had a bad Rim and just got the shaft form Specialized.

    Not impressed with Specialized on this one.

  199. #799
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Bryan, good question, but let me clarify first- these plugs are designed only to work with our carbon Fatties. Reason for this is two fold: first, you need a wide rim to use these since the rim bed has to be flat where the plug contacts the rim. Otherwise the plug will not be able to completely engage and seal. Secondly, our aluminum Fattie rims are a different thickness at the rim bed than carbon, so the plugs may not work well (again, plug won't be able to fully engage with rim), so we only include them for now with our carbon Fatties. We are working on slightly different plugs for alloy Fatties now.

    Because of this reason, shops will only be able to order them as a service part, in case you are rebuilding a wheel or something.
    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for the response, it looks like Specialized has already mentioned them on their site.

    "These new wheels are also compatible with our Roval tubeless plug system, an easy and super lightweight solution for tubeless setups. "

    Specialized Bicycle Components

    Roval questions?-capture.png

    Thanks Joe,

    Bryan
    Just keep pedaling, don't stop pedaling.

  200. #800
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    Hey Joe,
    Pretty interested in the alloy version of the Traverse Fatties. Do you have a real world weight (with rim tape and valves) for the 29er version of the wheels? When will they be available to purchase?
    Thanks!

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