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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Mike_mtn: thanks for the info! If you are not getting any flats, and your Arch rims are not getting dented up from rock impacts, then you won't have any problem with the Control 29 Carbon wheels. Alloy rims will dent before a carbon rim cracks, so that's why I was asking. The Control 29's are more resistant to impact damage also than the Control Trail SL's because of the way the rim is manufactured, and since they are a better deal price wise, I'd suggest getting those. They are also 1mm wider(22mm inner width) than the Trail SL's, so that will help shoulder that large 2.4 tire you have on the front.
    Joe: great info! Couple quick questions: will 16 psi be OK for either of these wheelsets? I was thinking the Control 29 Carbon would be more durable than the Control SL 29 and I like the price better for sure, but 1370g is an attractive weight on the SL. The Specialized site shows the inner rim widths at 22mm for both wheelsets but you mention that the SL's are narrower? Thanks!

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Joe: great info! Couple quick questions: will 16 psi be OK for either of these wheelsets? I was thinking the Control 29 Carbon would be more durable than the Control SL 29 and I like the price better for sure, but 1370g is an attractive weight on the SL. The Specialized site shows the inner rim widths at 22mm for both wheelsets but you mention that the SL's are narrower? Thanks!
    Mike_mtn- 16psi is a tough one. Normally I'd say this is way too low, but you do not seem to be having trouble with it. I think part of it has to do with the large volume tire you're running. To say if a rim can handle a certain psi would be inaccurate since again, it all depends on riding style, trail conditions, and what kind of tire you are using (thin or thicker casing, volume, etc). Like I mentioned before, knowing that you are not having problems with your alloy rims, I would anticipate no problems with the carbon rims.

    Rim widths- sorry, I didn't realize you were comparing Control SL's to Control Carbon's. These two wheels have the same inner width (22mm), it is the Control Trail SL's that are 21mm inner width.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Mike_mtn- 16psi is a tough one. Normally I'd say this is way too low, but you do not seem to be having trouble with it. I think part of it has to do with the large volume tire you're running. To say if a rim can handle a certain psi would be inaccurate since again, it all depends on riding style, trail conditions, and what kind of tire you are using (thin or thicker casing, volume, etc). Like I mentioned before, knowing that you are not having problems with your alloy rims, I would anticipate no problems with the carbon rims.

    Rim widths- sorry, I didn't realize you were comparing Control SL's to Control Carbon's. These two wheels have the same inner width (22mm), it is the Control Trail SL's that are 21mm inner width.
    Roval Joe - good to know about the 16 psi, I was concerned that the zero bead hook design might affect the tire performance negatively at low psi compared to my Arch EX rims.

    You mention that the Control Trail SL has a different manufacturing design than the Control Carbon. Since rim width is the same for Control SL and Control Carbon do they have similar resistance to impact damage and share the same carbon manufacturing design? Or do the Control SL and Control Trail SL share the same carbon manufacturing design? Thanks again, Joe.

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Roval Joe - good to know about the 16 psi, I was concerned that the zero bead hook design might affect the tire performance negatively at low psi compared to my Arch EX rims.

    You mention that the Control Trail SL has a different manufacturing design than the Control Carbon. Since rim width is the same for Control SL and Control Carbon do they have similar resistance to impact damage and share the same carbon manufacturing design? Or do the Control SL and Control Trail SL share the same carbon manufacturing design? Thanks again, Joe.
    mike_mtn- just to be clear (because I get easily confused) we are talking about 3 different wheels:
    - Control SL
    - Control Carbon
    - Control Trail SL

    Control SL and Control Carbon have similar design without bead hook, and Control Trail SL is the older style with a bead hook. Control SL and Control Carbon both have higher impact resistance than the Control Trail SL. Control SL and Control carbon have similar impact resistance, however, Control Carbon is a bit higher. This rim uses a bit more material in it, so it ends up being a bit more robust. Hope this helps!

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    mike_mtn- just to be clear (because I get easily confused) we are talking about 3 different wheels:
    - Control SL
    - Control Carbon
    - Control Trail SL

    Control SL and Control Carbon have similar design without bead hook, and Control Trail SL is the older style with a bead hook. Control SL and Control Carbon both have higher impact resistance than the Control Trail SL. Control SL and Control carbon have similar impact resistance, however, Control Carbon is a bit higher. This rim uses a bit more material in it, so it ends up being a bit more robust. Hope this helps!
    Roval Joe - Perfect, just the info I was looking for, thank you! Now, can you tell me when and where to get the best deals on the Control SL or Control Carbon?!

  6. #406
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    Demo'ed a a set of Roval Control 29 carbon this weekend, the 1200 no bead hook model. I have read that it is "stiffer" without the bead but I noted a harshness that I did not associate with the model year 2011 Roval Control SL's 29 which have less spokes, and bead hook. Can you speak to this? Both were used on Epic 29ers same tires and pressures (25psi). I am mistaking stiffness for harshness? I currently ride a set of the aluminum roval controls (epic expert 2012 level) and no tubes arch ex 29 and consider neither harsh.

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Roval Joe - Perfect, just the info I was looking for, thank you! Now, can you tell me when and where to get the best deals on the Control SL or Control Carbon?!
    Your best bet is to go see your nearest Specialized dealer!

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHSAD View Post
    Demo'ed a a set of Roval Control 29 carbon this weekend, the 1200 no bead hook model. I have read that it is "stiffer" without the bead but I noted a harshness that I did not associate with the model year 2011 Roval Control SL's 29 which have less spokes, and bead hook. Can you speak to this? Both were used on Epic 29ers same tires and pressures (25psi). I am mistaking stiffness for harshness? I currently ride a set of the aluminum roval controls (epic expert 2012 level) and no tubes arch ex 29 and consider neither harsh.
    CHSAD- sure, let me try to explain. To clarify on what you read about the wheel being stiffer w/out the bead hook, that is a bit off the mark. The way this rim is constructed makes the sidewall stronger, which makes it more resistant to impact, but that does not actually significantly add to the overall stiffness of the wheel. The strength comes from laying continuous layers of fibers across the sidewall and rim bed, as opposed to machining in a bead hook after molding, which cuts fibers and inherently makes the rim more susceptible to cracking from impacts like a rock strike.

    In regards to your question about stiffness/harshness, there are different ways in which you can measure stiffness. The most common form of stiffness discussed is side to side stiffness, and usually measured by placing a wheel in a fixture that holds it solid, then applying a load to the side of the rim and measuring how much the rim deflects (this takes into account the whole wheel, not just the rim stiffness). This would give an idea of how much the wheel flexes side to side when turning, etc. There are a lot of things that affect this stiffness, including how wide your hub flange is, what kind and how many spokes are being used, they size/construction of the rim, etc. Another way to talk about stiffness would be vertical stiffness, and that would be how much your rim deflects when a force is applied directly to the top of the rim (like if you hit a large bump in the trial). Both of these types of stiffness could contribute to the "harsh" feeling that you are experiencing, as the Control Carbon wheels measure much stiffer than their alloy counterparts. For the sake of comparison, I'm assuming you used the same tires and tire pressure that you run on your alloy wheels? Different tire casing and higher than normal pressure would also affect how the wheels feel in regards to harshness. When we created the Control Carbon wheels, we wanted a wheel that was very dependable, but still quite light and race worthy. This is a tough task if you consider how many bikes this wheel would end up going on, as well as the weight/riding style range of the end user. If you wanted to try something that was really light and less harsh of a ride, you might be interested in trying our new 2014 Control SL's. They use less spokes and a little bit different rim design for a still robust rim, but you loose almost 200g out of the wheelset weight.

    Hope all of this helps, let me know if you have any further questions.

  9. #409
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    Great explanation Roval Joe. Going to try the Controls again this weekend. Like the pricepoint in comparison to the SL. In the end the set I choose will end up on a S-Works Epic 29 2014 frame set that is alost ready to go.

  10. #410
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    Hello roval joe,

    i have one question regarding my roval trail sl 26" alloy wheel set with carbon front hub.
    I think this wheel set should be the same as the works installed original wheelset of the 2011 Sworks Stumpjumper FSR modell. I need the spoke data for the front and rear wheel, because some spokes looks like i should have to change them.

    Another questions is how can i change the bearings in the front and rear hub.
    Is there anything special which i have to know for this work?

    Thank you in advance.

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by stumpjumper_sworks View Post
    Hello roval joe,

    i have one question regarding my roval trail sl 26" alloy wheel set with carbon front hub.
    I think this wheel set should be the same as the works installed original wheelset of the 2011 Sworks Stumpjumper FSR modell. I need the spoke data for the front and rear wheel, because some spokes looks like i should have to change them.

    Another questions is how can i change the bearings in the front and rear hub.
    Is there anything special which i have to know for this work?

    Thank you in advance.
    stumpjumper_sworks: please see earlier in this thread where I have posted all service part data (spoke specs, lengths, part numbers, etc) for your wheels. If you have a problem looking it up, or don't understand something, let me know and I can help you with it.

    regarding bearing replacement, you would replace these same as any other hub bearing, using a press to make sure they go in evenly and do not damage the hub shell. Most dealers should have a tool to do this, so I'd recommend taking the wheels to a dealer first.

  12. #412
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    Morning Roval Joe and thanks for the extra effort in putting together this thread. I'm getting my first Specialized delivered today ('13 Camber Comp Carbon-used) and from what I understand this will be a 26mm Roval rim with generic hubs, J-bend spokes, etc. I have perused a lot of this thread and based on what I've read:
    1) am I correct to assume that the rims are 26mm wide (ext) and 21mm(int) widths? Also they're tubeless-compatible with just tape and valves?
    2) If tubeless IS the case what will the tape look like (so I easily identify it) and will I need Specialized valves or will another brand like Stan's work as well. If the valves should be Spesh-branded, would my local dealer likely have these in stock?
    3) Is the rear hub for this bike model the "New Specialized Hi Lo disc, 4x-sealed cartridge bearing"? Is there a way to tell externally if this is the case? Fwiw, the rims are grey-labeled. I'm really hoping theses are the re-engineered hubs based on some of the issues I've read about with the older model.
    [B]
    Edit: It arrived today and upon closer inspection the wheel decals say "Roval Control Trail 29". I took the picture from an eBay listing, but this is what they look like:

    Roval questions?-rct29.jpg


    Thanks again!
    Last edited by MTBeing; 01-21-2014 at 08:53 AM.
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  13. #413
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    Hi Joe:
    I recall earlier that you indicated the 2014 Roval Control and RC SL wheels would have the DT Swiss 36t ratchet.

    However, is it possible to upgrade or install the 36t ratchet in a 2013 Roval Control SL wheelset?

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Morning Roval Joe and thanks for the extra effort in putting together this thread. I'm getting my first Specialized delivered today ('13 Camber Comp Carbon-used) and from what I understand this will be a 26mm Roval rim with generic hubs, J-bend spokes, etc. I have perused a lot of this thread and based on what I've read:
    1) am I correct to assume that the rims are 26mm wide (ext) and 21mm(int) widths? Also they're tubeless-compatible with just tape and valves?
    2) If tubeless IS the case what will the tape look like (so I easily identify it) and will I need Specialized valves or will another brand like Stan's work as well. If the valves should be Spesh-branded, would my local dealer likely have these in stock?
    3) Is the rear hub for this bike model the "New Specialized Hi Lo disc, 4x-sealed cartridge bearing"? Is there a way to tell externally if this is the case? Fwiw, the rims are grey-labeled. I'm really hoping theses are the re-engineered hubs based on some of the issues I've read about with the older model.
    [B]
    Edit: It arrived today and upon closer inspection the wheel decals say "Roval Control Trail 29". I took the picture from an eBay listing, but this is what they look like:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks again!
    Mtbeing- the hubs from '13 are different from the older versions which had some quality issues. With the bronze colored rim strips on there, you should be able to just add a valve and sealant, and they should work fine. You can get Roval valves from Specialized dealers, but I have heard of people successfully using other valves in a pinch. And you are correct on widths, both internal and external.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by thetoque View Post
    Hi Joe:
    I recall earlier that you indicated the 2014 Roval Control and RC SL wheels would have the DT Swiss 36t ratchet.

    However, is it possible to upgrade or install the 36t ratchet in a 2013 Roval Control SL wheelset?
    I think I just answered your question in a PM, but just to be clear, yes, 36t ratchets are compatible with any star ratchet hub.

  16. #416
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    Roval Joe,

    One more question please...I'm still a bit confused by the nomenclature of the Rovals and specifically what the wheelset on my 2013 C/C/C equates to. In very small print on my Roval *rim* decal it states "Control Trail 29". I understand these wheels to be oem and not true Roval wheel system wheels (like these: Specialized Bicycle Components), due to the HiLo hub spec. To make a short story long, I'm trying to get a wheelset weight for this bike so I can decide whether or not to upgrade to a set of lighter Roval wheels in the future. Thank you.
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  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Roval Joe,

    One more question please...I'm still a bit confused by the nomenclature of the Rovals and specifically what the wheelset on my 2013 C/C/C equates to. In very small print on my Roval *rim* decal it states "Control Trail 29". I understand these wheels to be oem and not true Roval wheel system wheels (like these: Specialized Bicycle Components), due to the HiLo hub spec. To make a short story long, I'm trying to get a wheelset weight for this bike so I can decide whether or not to upgrade to a set of lighter Roval wheels in the future. Thank you.
    Yes, the wheels you have are not the hand built set. These are an OE configuration that uses a Roval rim, which is the same that comes on Roval wheelsets. Which wheelset weight in particular are you looking for?

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Yes, the wheels you have are not the hand built set. These are an OE configuration that uses a Roval rim, which is the same that comes on Roval wheelsets. Which wheelset weight in particular are you looking for?
    I apologize that I wasn't clear in my last post. I'm looking for the weight of the wheelset pictured above in my first post to you. It's the stock wheelset for the 2013 Camber Comp Carbon 29.
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  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    I apologize that I wasn't clear in my last post. I'm looking for the weight of the wheelset pictured above in my first post to you. It's the stock wheelset for the 2013 Camber Comp Carbon 29.
    ok, got it. unfortunately I don't have a weight for that wheelset, and don't have one at the office to reference. A lot of shops have scales, maybe you could probably take them in to get weighed?

  20. #420
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    Roval Joe,

    Have a set of 142+ Roval Control 29 Aluminum wheels that came off a 2012 Epic Expert 29 Carbon bike. I want to convert the rear free hub to the XD driver to run XX1 or X01. Can you tell me the part number of the free hub/XD driver I need to have the LBS get from Specialized? I have read the 142+ driver is not the same as the regualar 142 version and for optimal performance you the version from Specialized is recommended.

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHSAD View Post
    Roval Joe,

    Have a set of 142+ Roval Control 29 Aluminum wheels that came off a 2012 Epic Expert 29 Carbon bike. I want to convert the rear free hub to the XD driver to run XX1 or X01. Can you tell me the part number of the free hub/XD driver I need to have the LBS get from Specialized? I have read the 142+ driver is not the same as the regualar 142 version and for optimal performance you the version from Specialized is recommended.
    Hi CHSAD- I've posted the PN's in here earlier, but the PN you need is S132100005. The freehub body is the same for 135/142+, but you need the special end cap for 142+ that comes with this part number.

  22. #422
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    Roval Joe,

    I'm hesitating between a 29er carbon set of Roval Traverse SL and Roval Control. Both have 22mm internal width, but the Control are about 100g lighter and $500 cheaper. Do I get substantially more stiffness with the Traverse, or impact resistance should I blow a tire? While I ride nearly every day technical, rocky terrain fast, I only weight 142lbs. Will I feel much difference? Just from reading the specs, the Control seem a better buy. Thanks!

  23. #423
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    Hi Joe,

    I was wondering if the decals on the carbon wheelsets (specifically the Control 29) are removable, and if so, how can I do that and ensure that the carbon/resin layup below is not damaged?

    Thanks!

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by VII View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I'm hesitating between a 29er carbon set of Roval Traverse SL and Roval Control. Both have 22mm internal width, but the Control are about 100g lighter and $500 cheaper. Do I get substantially more stiffness with the Traverse, or impact resistance should I blow a tire? While I ride nearly every day technical, rocky terrain fast, I only weight 142lbs. Will I feel much difference? Just from reading the specs, the Control seem a better buy. Thanks!
    VII- with the Traverse wheels, you'll get a bit more stiffness and impact resistance. As light as you are, I do not think you'll have a problem using the Control Carbon's. The rims are both the same dimension, just different materials. If you don't currently have problems killing wheels, I'd save the money and go with the Control Carbon's.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennisbd99 View Post
    Hi Joe,

    I was wondering if the decals on the carbon wheelsets (specifically the Control 29) are removable, and if so, how can I do that and ensure that the carbon/resin layup below is not damaged?

    Thanks!
    dennisbd99- the decals on these wheels are a water slide decal that is applied, then covered with a clear coat (the entire rim is coated with a clear coat). In theory, you could sand off the decal, however, you would want to be EXREMELY careful to not sand below the decal and into the fibers. But then you'd be left with a goofy looking rim, unless you sanded the whole rim and put another clear coat on it. Considering you'd need to down build the wheel to do this correctly, it might not be worth the trouble.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    VII- with the Traverse wheels, you'll get a bit more stiffness and impact resistance. As light as you are, I do not think you'll have a problem using the Control Carbon's. The rims are both the same dimension, just different materials. If you don't currently have problems killing wheels, I'd save the money and go with the Control Carbon's.
    Thanks Joe. One more question: are the Control Carbon much stiffer than the current Traverse aluminum? I have a set of those now, and I'm not so thrilled with stiffness. Thanks!

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by VII View Post
    Thanks Joe. One more question: are the Control Carbon much stiffer than the current Traverse aluminum? I have a set of those now, and I'm not so thrilled with stiffness. Thanks!
    VII- the Control carbons are stiffer than Traverse 29 alloy. The only stiffer wheel we make is the Traverse SL. Also, I'm surprised to hear that you're having stiffness issues with the Traverse Alloy wheels, especially with your light weight. Mind if I ask what kind of tires you're running, pressure, and what terrain you're riding in?

  28. #428
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    I'm glad I asked, as that is exactly what I want to avoid doing.

    I've read through this whole forum and not seen anyone comment on this, but have you gotten much feedback on the aesthetics of the rim decals? I've seen your comments throughout this post about having to stock so many different options for axle options etc., so I'm very surprised that there are several different decal color options. For example: I'm interested in the Control Carbon 29, and I'm not a fan of any of the color options I've seen (White, Red, and Silver). I'd think that it would be better to keep one decal and stock only the OEM 142+ and aftermarket 135/142 versions, or possibly a different graphic for each.

    For OEM wheels the decals are obviously going to match the bike, but I imagine that there are a lot of people (myself included) who would prefer a different color to match their bike or at least a more attractive decal.

    FWIW, I currently ride 2012 Traverse 29's on my Bandit and I've been thoroughly impressed with the stiffness and durability. Great wheels!

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennisbd99 View Post
    I'm glad I asked, as that is exactly what I want to avoid doing.

    I've read through this whole forum and not seen anyone comment on this, but have you gotten much feedback on the aesthetics of the rim decals? I've seen your comments throughout this post about having to stock so many different options for axle options etc., so I'm very surprised that there are several different decal color options. For example: I'm interested in the Control Carbon 29, and I'm not a fan of any of the color options I've seen (White, Red, and Silver). I'd think that it would be better to keep one decal and stock only the OEM 142+ and aftermarket 135/142 versions, or possibly a different graphic for each.

    For OEM wheels the decals are obviously going to match the bike, but I imagine that there are a lot of people (myself included) who would prefer a different color to match their bike or at least a more attractive decal.

    FWIW, I currently ride 2012 Traverse 29's on my Bandit and I've been thoroughly impressed with the stiffness and durability. Great wheels!
    Dennisbd99- I do get feedback on graphics from time to time, and the biggest takeaway is, you can't please everyone when it comes to colors/graphics. That being said, you will see something new from us in '15 in this regard, which actually tries to address different tastes. It still may not please everyone, but I'm pretty confident we'll make a lot more people happy. Currently for AM wheels, we only produce one colorway, and then as you mention, colors are matched to some extent for OE wheels. Maybe when you see the product launch, months down the road, you can let me know what you think on this forum? Feedback is always appreciated, regardless of whether it's love or hate.

    Also, glad you are liking your Traverse 29's!

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    VII- the Control carbons are stiffer than Traverse 29 alloy. The only stiffer wheel we make is the Traverse SL. Also, I'm surprised to hear that you're having stiffness issues with the Traverse Alloy wheels, especially with your light weight. Mind if I ask what kind of tires you're running, pressure, and what terrain you're riding in?
    Thanks for the info, Joe. Also, I take back my comment about stiffness. It was my first ride and things were not dialed. Additional riding show the wheels to be stiff. They are just bit heavy for my taste. I ordered some Control Carbon; looking forward to riding those!

  31. #431
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    Hi, great thread very informative!

    I have a Roval Traversee AL from 2010, the red one, similar to those (same MY).
    Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    Are the spoke length of the rear wheel the same as 2011 like you posted before (268 and 271mm) or different? From my information the EL used triple gauged 2-1.7-1.8 and AL used double gauged 2-2.8-2 spokes.

    Furthermore, the rear hub has some play and doing strange noises, i made this rebuild but with no great effect, i should sostitute it i think after 4 years and hopefully upgrade to a ratchet one, is it avaiable as a spare parts or should you advice me about a possible sostitution?

    Thank you and greetings from Italy

  32. #432
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    Hey Roval Joe,

    I need to change the front wheel bearings on my 2012 Control Trail SL 29 142+ wheels. I thought I needed the 6704 bearings, but I've been reading that it might be 6804.

    Also, what are the correct spoke lengths for this wheelset? I need to change some of the rear wheel spokes on the drive and non-drive side.

    Please help. thanks!
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  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by defraz View Post
    Hi, great thread very informative!

    I have a Roval Traversee AL from 2010, the red one, similar to those (same MY).
    Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    Are the spoke length of the rear wheel the same as 2011 like you posted before (268 and 271mm) or different? From my information the EL used triple gauged 2-1.7-1.8 and AL used double gauged 2-2.8-2 spokes.

    Furthermore, the rear hub has some play and doing strange noises, i made this rebuild but with no great effect, i should sostitute it i think after 4 years and hopefully upgrade to a ratchet one, is it avaiable as a spare parts or should you advice me about a possible sostitution?

    Thank you and greetings from Italy
    Defraz- yes, your spokes would be double butted as you say (we used DT Competition for those wheels), and lengths for Traverse AL wheels in 2010 were: Front Drive side: 249mm, Non drive side: 267mm. Rear Drive/Non drive side were 275mm.

    It's hard for me to speculate on what is making noise in your hub, did you replace all the bearings? We don't offer the hub as a service part, so you wouldn't be able to order it. Might be worth giving Specialized Italy a call to see what can be done about your hub, or it might be worth looking at a new set of wheels with star ratchets?

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazukea View Post
    Hey Roval Joe,

    I need to change the front wheel bearings on my 2012 Control Trail SL 29 142+ wheels. I thought I needed the 6704 bearings, but I've been reading that it might be 6804.

    Also, what are the correct spoke lengths for this wheelset? I need to change some of the rear wheel spokes on the drive and non-drive side.

    Please help. thanks!
    Hi Mazukea, In the first few pages of this thread I posted a complete look up chart which would show spoke lengths for your wheels, as well as a bearing look up. take a look at that, and if you have trouble finding any of the information you're looking for, let me know.

  35. #435
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    Hi Roval Joe, thank you very much for your response. Yes i know it's almost impossible to speculate about a hub at distance... just wondering about the possibility to replace it. I will contact Specialized Italy just in case.

  36. #436
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    Thanks. I'm still confused on the bearing info. 6704 seems to be the bearing most people were using. But now I'm seeing 6902 and 6802. I guess I can just go and borrow a caliper to figure out which bearing I have in my front hub. The 6704 has a 20mm ID and the 6802 and 6902 have 15mm ID. That should be a dead giveaway.
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  37. #437
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    okay, I figured out my bearing size. I busted out my caliper and started measuring.

    I have 6804 on one side and 6805 on the other side.
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    Hi Roval Joe. I'm afraid this has been asked numerous times, but here goes anyway: Will the new Roval Control 2014 (142+) fit my Niner Jet9RDO (142)?
    My LBS says it will but on the Speci website it clearly states it's not compatible. Can you please give me your thoughts please?

    Also I'm wondering what would be the best deal. I'm getting a discount from my LBS on the 2013 SL Wheels to 1200. This is the same price as the 2014 Control version. Any advice?



    Thanks a lot!!
    Last edited by Elbaceever; 02-21-2014 at 03:14 AM.

  39. #439
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    Roval Joe: can you recommend an aftermarket rear QR 142 x 12 mm thru axle for the '14 Roval wheel?

    Secondly - can I just say I've had very poor experience with your OEM 2Bliss tape. Despite number of attempts, including using a bottle of Stans sealant in the process, your OEM 2Bliss tape and OEM valves that came installed on my '14 Roval wheels weren't properly wrapped on the rim. There was a slightly looseness and was able to pry off the tape with ease. This is not reassuring or tubeless safe. As a solution, I switched to Stans tape & valves which has since held air with no issues. Are you able to comment on this?

  40. #440
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    Roval questions?

    Mine worked great. One of my four wheels had a crease in the strip from being folded under the tube so I taped that one. Otherwise they rock. Simple and effective though I think there is a[n irrelevant] weight penalty v. The Stan's tape.
    -G


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  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Roval Joe: can you recommend an aftermarket rear QR 142 x 12 mm thru axle for the '14 Roval wheel?

    Secondly - can I just say I've had very poor experience with your OEM 2Bliss tape. Despite number of attempts, including using a bottle of Stans sealant in the process, your OEM 2Bliss tape and OEM valves that came installed on my '14 Roval wheels weren't properly wrapped on the rim. There was a slightly looseness and was able to pry off the tape with ease. This is not reassuring or tubeless safe. As a solution, I switched to Stans tape & valves which has since held air with no issues. Are you able to comment on this?
    Hatone- axle you use will mostly depend on what frame you are using it on. Different frames may be designed for different interfaces (where head of axle interfaces with dropout, on outside of frame), so what axle you use will depend on that. As far as compatibility, our wheels should work fine with any 12mm axle.

    regarding your tubeless setup- I'm sorry to hear that you're having some issues here. So we are talking about the same thing, you mean that you had problems with the actual rim "strip", which is what the wheel comes with, a plastic 1 piece hoop if you will, as opposed to "tape", which comes on a roll with adhesive backing and you apply to the rim. My comment would be that it's impossible for me to evaluate what happened without actually seeing the wheel, but I have not heard of a lot of problems with these, and most people have told me that it makes it easy enough to seat/seal with a floor pump. Occasionally I do get a comment like fire_strom mentions above, about one of the strips being creased because it was installed improperly with a tube and then when inflated, the tube creases the strip. This is something we hear about on our OE spec and comes like that from the factory, and is discovered when the customer goes to set up their bike as tubeless. If this is what happened to you, you could have saved some money by going back to the shop you purchased it from and having them warranty the strip so you had one that worked right. However, fire_strom also brings up a good point about the strip. They are very convenient, but they are not as light as Stan's tape. We originally sold wheels with tape, but got so many complaints about the tape shifting over time, or not being reusable, that we decided to go the rim strips. For riders concerned with every gram (and rightfully so, as this is the most crucial place to save weight on your bike), and have the patience to deal with tape, you can definitely save a little weight.

  42. #442
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    Mine worked great. One of my four wheels had a crease in the strip from being folded under the tube so I taped that one. Otherwise they rock. Simple and effective though I think there is a[n irrelevant] weight penalty v. The Stan's tape.
    -G


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    Same happened to one of my wheels where the tan rimstrip was creased somehow. Instead of attempting to straighten it out and use it, I simply removed it and put in 1 layer of a Gorilla tape. I will say that the (gorilla) taped wheel aired up better for some reason.
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  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hatone- axle you use will mostly depend on what frame you are using it on. Different frames may be designed for different interfaces (where head of axle interfaces with dropout, on outside of frame), so what axle you use will depend on that. As far as compatibility, our wheels should work fine with any 12mm axle.

    regarding your tubeless setup- I'm sorry to hear that you're having some issues here. So we are talking about the same thing, you mean that you had problems with the actual rim "strip", which is what the wheel comes with, a plastic 1 piece hoop if you will, as opposed to "tape", which comes on a roll with adhesive backing and you apply to the rim. My comment would be that it's impossible for me to evaluate what happened without actually seeing the wheel, but I have not heard of a lot of problems with these, and most people have told me that it makes it easy enough to seat/seal with a floor pump. Occasionally I do get a comment like fire_strom mentions above, about one of the strips being creased because it was installed improperly with a tube and then when inflated, the tube creases the strip. This is something we hear about on our OE spec and comes like that from the factory, and is discovered when the customer goes to set up their bike as tubeless. If this is what happened to you, you could have saved some money by going back to the shop you purchased it from and having them warranty the strip so you had one that worked right. However, fire_strom also brings up a good point about the strip. They are very convenient, but they are not as light as Stan's tape. We originally sold wheels with tape, but got so many complaints about the tape shifting over time, or not being reusable, that we decided to go the rim strips. For riders concerned with every gram (and rightfully so, as this is the most crucial place to save weight on your bike), and have the patience to deal with tape, you can definitely save a little weight.
    Thanks for taking the time to respond, Joe.

    To answer the first question regarding QR, the frame is a '14 Epic Expert WC. With this in mind, can you offer guidance which aftermarket QRs 12 mm (Syntace axle yes?) fit?

    When I evaluated your 2Bliss tape, I was left wondering three things:


    • A tubeless tape with a non-adhesive backing means it is susceptible to creasing. Therein lies the problem. Does that not concern you, having been reported by others, that the tape is perhaps, not as reliable as you think? Is it much trouble for those at the factory to install an adhesive backing tape? This would practically eliminate the creasing altogether, plus save a little rotational weight in the process (added bonus)
    • Specialized's tubeless valves. You only have to look at Stan's tubeless valves to soon realise what is wrong with Spec's valves. The rubber block around the valve sits too far and flat in the gutter of the rim, when actually you want the valve to sit as squarely and as far in the valve stem hole as possible. Plus the tyre bead is prone to sitting on the top of the rubber seal, not around it like Stans's as it sits taller.
    • Does your Specialized World Cup XC race team actually run the stock OEM above set up?


    The above seems to highlight why I had such trouble with your tubeless set up. I'm aware some have had better success than me, perhaps lucky, but I personally would look at using what actually works (i.e. Stans's set up).

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to respond, Joe.

    To answer the first question regarding QR, the frame is a '14 Epic Expert WC. With this in mind, can you offer guidance which aftermarket QRs 12 mm (Syntace axle yes?) fit?

    When I evaluated your 2Bliss tape, I was left wondering three things:


    • A tubeless tape with a non-adhesive backing means it is susceptible to creasing. Therein lies the problem. Does that not concern you, having been reported by others, that the tape is perhaps, not as reliable as you think? Is it much trouble for those at the factory to install an adhesive backing tape? This would practically eliminate the creasing altogether, plus save a little rotational weight in the process (added bonus)
    • Specialized's tubeless valves. You only have to look at Stan's tubeless valves to soon realise what is wrong with Spec's valves. The rubber block around the valve sits too far and flat in the gutter of the rim, when actually you want the valve to sit as squarely and as far in the valve stem hole as possible. Plus the tyre bead is prone to sitting on the top of the rubber seal, not around it like Stans's as it sits taller.
    • Does your Specialized World Cup XC race team actually run the stock OEM above set up?


    The above seems to highlight why I had such trouble with your tubeless set up. I'm aware some have had better success than me, perhaps lucky, but I personally would look at using what actually works (i.e. Stans's set up).
    Hi Hatone,
    for Specialized bike questions, head on over to:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/s...ns-900041.html

    We have another guy like me that takes on all the mtn bike related questions, and it keeps things nice and simple if we stick to Roval/wheel items here.

    regarding your points on tubeless systems- unfortunately there is not a perfect system out there. Like I mentioned before, we started with tape and ran it for a number of years, and I personally got WAY more complaints about tape than I have about our rim strips in the 2 years we've had it. I imagine if you were faced with the same dilemma, you'd probably choose what made the most people happy. Having said that, anyone else reading this who has had experience with our rim strips (the bronze colored strips with Roval 2bliss logos on them, not the blue tape we had a few years ago), I invite you to chime in with your experience, good or bad. The majority of feedback I get is from shop owners/mechanics, and this thread is a great way for me to get feedback from the end user. Thanks in advance your feedback.

    Is our factory team using this setup? Yes (our rim strips/our valves), and not because we make them. The mechanics like the functionality, and the riders don't have issues with them. To be totally honest, I was surprised to hear this (after reading your question I talked to one of the team mechanics to find out), because of the weight difference. However, our mechanics said that when you are constantly changing tires due to changing course conditions, installing race day tires etc, our strips actually hold up better than tape, and is more reliable. They did say that at national championships last year, Todd Wells had them use tape on race day to save every ounce, but according to them, this was the only race.

  45. #445
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    Roval three cross rear wheel

    Hi Roval Joe
    I've noticed most all Rover rear wheels are three cross but where the spoke crosses another spoke they don't touch. (inner outer are not interlaced)
    Most all other brands three cross, always interlace the spokes and where they cross they touch.
    Why Are Roval wheels built this way? what are the advantages and disadvantages and why does the rest of the bicycle industry always interlace The spokes where they cross so they touch?

    Any light you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.

  46. #446
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Thanks
    It sounds like you might be better off having a shop change tires for you.
    G


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  47. #447
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    So I am confused. I want to throw Specialized into the mix as I get ready to purchase some carbon wheels but it looks like the ROVALCONTROL SL 29 isn't really available yet or...I don't understand the Specialized website.

    Someone help me out here.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Foot View Post
    Hi Roval Joe
    I've noticed most all Rover rear wheels are three cross but where the spoke crosses another spoke they don't touch. (inner outer are not interlaced)
    Most all other brands three cross, always interlace the spokes and where they cross they touch.
    Why Are Roval wheels built this way? what are the advantages and disadvantages and why does the rest of the bicycle industry always interlace The spokes where they cross so they touch?

    Any light you can shed on this would be greatly appreciated.
    Big Foot- that's a great question! So there are a few reasons for this. With a standard J bend hub, it is easy to cross the spokes because of the way the head sits in the flange, crossing the spokes does not change much in the way of the angle of the head in the flange. If you notice on a Roval straight pull flange, the spokes sit side by side rather than in the same plane, so when we originally designed the wheels, we were worried that bending the spokes enough to cross would make the angle at which the head sits in the tab (or flange) crooked, and we were worried about having failure in the head. There was no measurable difference in side to side stiffness tests whether we crossed the spokes or not, so we went without crossing/touching them. We are not the only ones who do this, SRAM is another manufacturer that does this, and there are others also.

    hope this helps, and I realize it's hard to explain without looking and pointing to the hub so if this doesn't make sense, let me know and i'll try to describe better.

  49. #449
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    Hi Joe,
    I just bought a set of Roval Control Carbon 29er wheels from a friend of mine.
    He has misplaced the rear hub 12x142 end caps. Can I buy them from a Specialized dealer? Or would this be through DT Swiss? I think the DT Part # would be HWGXXX0002193C, if I am not mistaken.
    Could you please verify? If the Specialized dealer would have them, is it a different part number?
    Thank you!!
    Scott

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by dctiscty View Post
    Hi Joe,
    I just bought a set of Roval Control Carbon 29er wheels from a friend of mine.
    He has misplaced the rear hub 12x142 end caps. Can I buy them from a Specialized dealer? Or would this be through DT Swiss? I think the DT Part # would be HWGXXX0002193C, if I am not mistaken.
    Could you please verify? If the Specialized dealer would have them, is it a different part number?
    Thank you!!
    Scott
    Scott- you can get this directly from DT, and yes, you have the right Part number.

  51. #451
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    Thanks that's very helpful

  52. #452
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    On the rim strips - I've been rolling a set of Control SL 29's for a year now (1400 miles and several races) and have had no problems at all with them. All my tires have inflated relatively easily (I do have a compressor though) and have never had a tire failure/loss of air on a ride. They have worked great for me.

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdan View Post
    On the rim strips - I've been rolling a set of Control SL 29's for a year now (1400 miles and several races) and have had no problems at all with them. All my tires have inflated relatively easily (I do have a compressor though) and have never had a tire failure/loss of air on a ride. They have worked great for me.
    Thanks for the feedback dirtdan!

  54. #454
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    After changing the fork on my 2014 Camber from a RockShox 30 Gold to a RockShox Reba I'm sitting with a problem. The old fork uses a 9mm QR and the Reba uses a 15mm thru-axle.

    On the Spesialized site they list the following specs for the Camber Comp I've got

    FRONT HUB
    Specialized Hi Lo disc, sealed cartridge bearings, 15mm thru-axle, 32h

    Is there a easy/simple way to convert the hub so that the new axle will fit either by installing new end caps or must I fit a new hub. The wheels are still the factory default Roval 29 alloy wheels.

    Thanks

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by janfromnam View Post
    After changing the fork on my 2014 Camber from a RockShox 30 Gold to a RockShox Reba I'm sitting with a problem. The old fork uses a 9mm QR and the Reba uses a 15mm thru-axle.

    On the Spesialized site they list the following specs for the Camber Comp I've got

    FRONT HUB
    Specialized Hi Lo disc, sealed cartridge bearings, 15mm thru-axle, 32h

    Is there a easy/simple way to convert the hub so that the new axle will fit either by installing new end caps or must I fit a new hub. The wheels are still the factory default Roval 29 alloy wheels.

    Thanks
    janfromnam- unfortunately you'll need to get a new hub or wheel. This hub is not convertible.

  56. #456
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    Hello

    I've got the Carbon Control 29 from a 2013 Epic Marathon. I will need a full set of bearings soon for spares. (Got several long stage races this year) What bearings are used front and back and where can I find a manual with his in?

    Thanks

  57. #457
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    LFM07_hub_tech_page.pdf[QUOTE=bobgfish;11040318]Hello

    bobgfish- have a look at the attached tech page for front hub bearing info. For the rear hubs, you'll need qty 2 bearing number 6902 (DT PN: HSBXXX00N1468S) and qty 2 bearing number 6802 (DT PN: HSBXXX00N1244S).

    You can have your local dealer order the bearings through Specialized for both.

  58. #458
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    Thanks. You can't also tell me the spoke lengths can you and how many of each is used? Got a bunch of spares just in case a while back and gave a few away in an event last year (traded a beer per spoke) I need a few more spares for a just in case moment.

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobgfish View Post
    Thanks. You can't also tell me the spoke lengths can you and how many of each is used? Got a bunch of spares just in case a while back and gave a few away in an event last year (traded a beer per spoke) I need a few more spares for a just in case moment.
    http://service.specialized.com/asc/C...ice-kit-rA.pdf

    No problem. Have a look at the link above for all the tech info you'll need.

  60. #460
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    Wow, this thread is awesome. Kudos to you Joe and the Big S.

    Question for you... Currently riding 29er 1,400gm Aluminum Stan's wheels here in the midwest.
    They're my race/daily driver wheelset. At 140lbs. I've had no issues with them going out of true, etc.

    I'm now moving to the Pacific Northwest and looking to upgrade to the Specialized Roval Control SL wheels for the added strength, stiffness and more impact resistance (no bead hook was main selling point) than my feathery week aluminum wheels. My concern is that the Control SL's will be flexy/not up to the task of west coast 'trail' riding. I plan to do some XC racing and 'trail' riding on them as daily wheels. I won't be doing massive drops, but I'm surely I'll be testing them a bit on the downhills out there. At my 140lb. weight do you think I'll be OK with the Control SLs? I really don't want to 'downgrade' to the Controls as I thrive on racing on these ultralight wheels and if I'm going to drop Carbon wheel $$ I want to make sure I can use them for racing and trail riding.
    Thanks for the feedback!

  61. #461
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    I have the 2013 roval control 29 carbons, currently set up 9mm qr. Can I get 9mm thru end caps for this wheel.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtRacer1 View Post
    Wow, this thread is awesome. Kudos to you Joe and the Big S.

    Question for you... Currently riding 29er 1,400gm Aluminum Stan's wheels here in the midwest.
    They're my race/daily driver wheelset. At 140lbs. I've had no issues with them going out of true, etc.

    I'm now moving to the Pacific Northwest and looking to upgrade to the Specialized Roval Control SL wheels for the added strength, stiffness and more impact resistance (no bead hook was main selling point) than my feathery week aluminum wheels. My concern is that the Control SL's will be flexy/not up to the task of west coast 'trail' riding. I plan to do some XC racing and 'trail' riding on them as daily wheels. I won't be doing massive drops, but I'm surely I'll be testing them a bit on the downhills out there. At my 140lb. weight do you think I'll be OK with the Control SLs? I really don't want to 'downgrade' to the Controls as I thrive on racing on these ultralight wheels and if I'm going to drop Carbon wheel $$ I want to make sure I can use them for racing and trail riding.
    Thanks for the feedback!
    DirtRacer1- Glad you like the thread! Ok, so I'm assuming you are riding the ZTR Race Gold wheels? based on you riding those wheels and having zero issues, plus your body weight, I think you'll be perfectly happy with the Control SL's. They will be much more impact resistant than what you are riding currently, as well as stiffer. You shouldn't have problems trail riding with them, and you'll be happy with the weight as well.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by clk View Post
    I have the 2013 roval control 29 carbons, currently set up 9mm qr. Can I get 9mm thru end caps for this wheel.
    clk- sorry, we don't make a 9mm QR end cap for this wheel.

  64. #464
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    Hi Joe,

    You really give some good guidance tips!
    I wanted to ask you, i have the roval traverse sl carbon 26 wheelset on my 2013 sworks enduro and i want to swap my fork fox 34 160 talas with a 36 fox! I understant that the 36 has 20mm axle whereas the 34 comes with 15 mm axle. Would i need any adaptors to fit my new 36 fork on the bike with the traverse sl?

    Thanks!

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stormrider85 View Post
    Hi Joe,

    You really give some good guidance tips!
    I wanted to ask you, i have the roval traverse sl carbon 26 wheelset on my 2013 sworks enduro and i want to swap my fork fox 34 160 talas with a 36 fox! I understant that the 36 has 20mm axle whereas the 34 comes with 15 mm axle. Would i need any adaptors to fit my new 36 fork on the bike with the traverse sl?

    Thanks!
    Stormrider85- just trying to help people out. With how many product choices there are in the market these days, it can make you delirious trying to keep up! ok, so for your wheelset, you'll need our 20mm end caps for your front hub. You can order this through any Specialized dealer, the part number for these caps is S125900003. Let me know if you have any other questions.

  66. #466
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    Roval Joe,

    I am building up a Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon Evo 29er and am looking buy some super strong durable wheels for it. I live in the midwest and mainly race a stumpjumper HT and I already have some lightweight 2012 Roval Control SL 29ers that I can put on the FSR for racing. The Stumpy FSR will be used for longer marathon style races, possibly some enduro's and sweet trips to places like Moab, Fruita, Sedona, etc... and possibly even a bike park or two. I am 5'10 weigh about 170 and am pretty good at finesseing a bike through the gnar, so I am not too rough on my wheels.

    I am looking at the Roval Control Carbon 29 vs. the Roval Traverse SL 29. Whats the big difference (besides spoke type and front hub size/end cap compatibility)? Is there a big difference in the rim durability? I see internal width is the same between the two, but the traverse is an extra mil wider externally. Is there a difference in depth of the rim? Is the Traverse that much beefier? Like ENVE DH beefie? Are the Traverse worth the weight penalty for the extra durability? What are you thoughts/recommendations. Thanks!

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by StolltheMusic View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I am building up a Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon Evo 29er and am looking buy some super strong durable wheels for it. I live in the midwest and mainly race a stumpjumper HT and I already have some lightweight 2012 Roval Control SL 29ers that I can put on the FSR for racing. The Stumpy FSR will be used for longer marathon style races, possibly some enduro's and sweet trips to places like Moab, Fruita, Sedona, etc... and possibly even a bike park or two. I am 5'10 weigh about 170 and am pretty good at finesseing a bike through the gnar, so I am not too rough on my wheels.

    I am looking at the Roval Control Carbon 29 vs. the Roval Traverse SL 29. Whats the big difference (besides spoke type and front hub size/end cap compatibility)? Is there a big difference in the rim durability? I see internal width is the same between the two, but the traverse is an extra mil wider externally. Is there a difference in depth of the rim? Is the Traverse that much beefier? Like ENVE DH beefie? Are the Traverse worth the weight penalty for the extra durability? What are you thoughts/recommendations. Thanks!
    StoltheMusic- Control Carbon and Traverse SL rims have the same dimensions. They actually come out of the same mold, but are different material and different layups. The extra durability of Traverse is definitely nice to have if you are hard on wheels and regularly ride in rocky/rooty areas. That being said, it does not seem like you will have a problem with the Control Carbon's based on your description, and most of the riding you're doing will be really nice to have the extra weight savings. If you are going to ride an area where there are tons of rocks and you are worried about dinging your rims, you can run a bit thicker casing tire, like our Grid casing, and that will help protect the rims. hope this helps!

  68. #468
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    Roval questions?

    Hi Joe,

    Just a quick question about roval control 29s. I'm about 200 lbs all geared up and was curious if this was too heavy for the wheel. I a stump jumper Evo with the traverse 29s and hi/LO hubs. I ride in Ohio and we have a fair amount of roots but just do XC riding and racing.


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  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoomyster View Post
    Hi Joe,

    Just a quick question about roval control 29s. I'm about 200 lbs all geared up and was curious if this was too heavy for the wheel. I a stump jumper Evo with the traverse 29s and hi/LO hubs. I ride in Ohio and we have a fair amount of roots but just do XC riding and racing.


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    Hoomyster- I presume you have not had any issues with your Traverse Alloy wheels? and you are referring to the Control alloy wheels, or the Control carbon wheels? please clarify and I can provide more info. thanks.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hoomyster- I presume you have not had any issues with your Traverse Alloy wheels? and you are referring to the Control alloy wheels, or the Control carbon wheels? please clarify and I can provide more info. thanks.
    Thanks for the quick reply and sorry for the lack of clarification. Nothing major with the Traverses, just a creased rim strip. I'm referring to the alloys and not the carbons.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoomyster View Post
    Thanks for the quick reply and sorry for the lack of clarification. Nothing major with the Traverses, just a creased rim strip. I'm referring to the alloys and not the carbons.
    Hoomyster- got it. You would probably have no problems with the Control alloys, but something to consider is that you are reducing the rim width significantly, which may or may not change some things for you. If you run lower pressures and are carving turns at a higher rate of speed, the narrower rims might allow the tire casing to squirm (lighter casing tire = more squirming, heaver casing tire = less squirm). However, since you are in Ohio, I'm thinking this may not be an issue since there are probably few sustained descents. I've talked to some riders back east who ride super rocky trails that are very tight and because they do not pick up much speed on these trails, they don't put a lot of side load on the tires. These guys are getting away with super low tire pressures, and enjoying more traction/suppleness. Since the Control alloys are a lot lighter than your Traverse wheels, you'll enjoy being able to accelerate them a lot quicker and shed some overall weight off your bike.

    If you are serious about getting a new set of wheels, see if your dealer will let you demo a set so you can get a feel for what you're getting into.

    hope this helps.

  72. #472
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    I usually roll with around 27-30 psi and, you're right, I think the longest downhill in my neck of the woods would be roughly 5 min. Thanks for the input. I appreciate it!

  73. #473
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    Hey Joe-

    Considering the Control Carbon 29 vs. the Traverse SL Carbon 29 as an upgrade on a new Camber Evo. I ride in Santa Cruz, mainly Demo, UCSC, Skeggs and surrounding trails. Can I get away with the Controls or would you recommend the beefier Traverse? Roughly 5'10" and 175. Thx!

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by thanft View Post
    Hey Joe-

    Considering the Control Carbon 29 vs. the Traverse SL Carbon 29 as an upgrade on a new Camber Evo. I ride in Santa Cruz, mainly Demo, UCSC, Skeggs and surrounding trails. Can I get away with the Controls or would you recommend the beefier Traverse? Roughly 5'10" and 175. Thx!
    thanft- you are in my neck of the woods! Having ridden a bunch in all those same areas, I can confidently say you'll be fine on the Control Carbons. Get out and enjoy the trails before they dry up again!

  75. #475
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    Thanks man! Figured you would know those trails. I should mention that I do like to hit some of the jumps/drops at Demo and take an occasional trip to Downieville/Tahoe. Still ok to run the Controls?

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by thanft View Post
    Thanks man! Figured you would know those trails. I should mention that I do like to hit some of the jumps/drops at Demo and take an occasional trip to Downieville/Tahoe. Still ok to run the Controls?
    You'll have no problems at Demo. At a place like Tahoe/Downieville, you'll likely have no problems either. The only thing that I would caution against is running a lightweight tire casing there. Reason being is that I've seen where people running at a high rate of speed on a long rocky straight, and happen to have a puncture, and take awhile to get stopped. in the process of slowing down, they end up pinging some rocks with their flat tires, and that can cause some damage. Mostly just in the rear though. if you were running a Grid casing or something similar in the rear (in really rock areas only- bay area is no problem)you'd be fine. Make sense?

  77. #477
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    Yup, makes total sense! I'll go w/ the Control Carbons. Thanks very much for the feedback... you saved me some $$

    Curious, why does Specialized market the Control Carbons as an XC/Race wheel if they can withstand the abuse you'd typically associate with (at the least) a "Trail" wheelset? From reading through the forum posts, it sounds as though they are cut from the same mold as the Traverse but just have a different layup, a lighter spoke and a heavier hub? What type of impact would a Traverse be able to withstand that a Control wouldn't?

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by thanft View Post
    Yup, makes total sense! I'll go w/ the Control Carbons. Thanks very much for the feedback... you saved me some $$

    Curious, why does Specialized market the Control Carbons as an XC/Race wheel if they can withstand the abuse you'd typically associate with (at the least) a "Trail" wheelset? From reading through the forum posts, it sounds as though they are cut from the same mold as the Traverse but just have a different layup, a lighter spoke and a heavier hub? What type of impact would a Traverse be able to withstand that a Control wouldn't?
    Thanft- you bring up an excellent point. When we designed the Control Carbon wheels, the intent was to build a light, affordable, and durable XC wheelset. At the time this project started, some customers were complaining about our carbon rims with bead hooks breaking too easily from impacts, so we wanted to make sure wheel durability was not going to be an issue. Now that the wheels have been in the market for a few years, and we've seen hardly any issues with them, we're realizing they are actually fine for most trail riding as well.

    On the Traverse SL's, they come from the same mold as the Control Carbon rims, however, because of the different layup and different materials used, the impact resistance is even higher than the Control Carbon's. The rim itself is stiffer, and since we're using thicker spokes, the overall wheel is considerably stiffer than the Controls also. What type of impact would the Traverse be able to survive that a Control wouldn't? that's a very hard question to answer without taking you through our impact test, which is not something we really share. I don't have a good example like "a 200lb rider traveling at 25miles an hour on a hardtail bike with a Grid casing tire inflated to 25 psi and hitting a square edge granite rock without lifting up" to give.

  79. #479
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    Thanks for all the replies - super helpful... So is it safe to assume that the Control Carbons will have a higher impact resistance and be considerably stiffer when compared to the Traverse alloy that come stock on the Camber Evo Expert?

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by thanft View Post
    Thanks for all the replies - super helpful... So is it safe to assume that the Control Carbons will have a higher impact resistance and be considerably stiffer when compared to the Traverse alloy that come stock on the Camber Evo Expert?
    no worries- yes, the control carbon's will have higher impact resistance than the alloy wheels that came on your bike. Alloy rims generally will bend much sooner than a carbon rim will crack. This is a very general statement of course, but as a rule of thumb.

  81. #481
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    Great, thanks again for all the help!

  82. #482
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    Hello,

    I have a 2012 Epic Expert Carbon 29 with the Roval Control 29 wheelset.

    Now I would like to convert the front wheel to 15mm.
    Which is the part number for the end caps I need?

    Many thanks in advance!

  83. #483
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    Has anyone here replaced their aluminum roval control 29 rims with crests? I'm thinking of re-lacing mine to drop some weight and gain some width. Mine are the 19mm internal width rims. Obviously I'd like to reuse the spokes but I do plan on buying new nipples. The spokes are DT Swiss Supercomp 15g so I would need 12mm by 1.8 nipples right ? Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by serious1; 03-16-2014 at 02:39 PM.

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    hello,

    i have a 2012 epic expert carbon 29 with the roval control 29 wheelset.

    Now i would like to convert the front wheel to 15mm.
    Which is the part number for the end caps i need?

    Many thanks in advance!
    s125900010

  85. #485
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    Hi,
    I have just purchased a set of Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels for my 2013 Epic.
    My epic originally came with a 9mm thrubolt and I would like to keep this on the bike, as I like it better then the 5mm quick release that came with the wheels.

    Are there end caps available for this wheelset to be converted to 9mm front?

    If so how and where can I get them?

    Thanks!
    [2019 Epic Expert Evo]
    [Niner Air 9 Alloy - Rigid SS]

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyrich88 View Post
    Hi,
    I have just purchased a set of Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels for my 2013 Epic.
    My epic originally came with a 9mm thrubolt and I would like to keep this on the bike, as I like it better then the 5mm quick release that came with the wheels.

    Are there end caps available for this wheelset to be converted to 9mm front?

    If so how and where can I get them?

    Thanks!
    Sorry, Tyrich88, we do not make 9mm end caps for any Roval wheelsets.

  87. #487
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    He may be talking about the OS24 axle thing...

  88. #488
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    He is talking about the DT Swiss 9mm RWS. There are no Roval caps fit it, but you can have a machine shop make them using the OS24 (fox forks) or OS28 (rockshox) endcaps.
    Its what I did when I upgraded my wheels but didnt want to change out the QR fork.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  89. #489
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    Tyrich88, maybe one of the eBay adapters discussed in this thread could work? I'm picturing your Rovals setup for 15mm TA, then using the 15mm TA to 9mm thrubolt adapter.
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=821753

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  90. #490
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    Yall should really look into that. I feel like the thrubolt would be a lot more preferred than a standard Quick Release.

    Roval Joe, Do you see the ebay adapters that ewarnerusa is talking about as being a good solution?
    [2019 Epic Expert Evo]
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  91. #491
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    BTW ewarnerusa, thanks for the tip! I am going to take a look at them now!
    [2019 Epic Expert Evo]
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  92. #492
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    Roval questions?

    That's weird that roval does not have a OS24 hardware. I have traverses with the OS24 front axle and am considering controls. I would much prefer to keep the OS24 setup. I'm excited to see what the solution ends up being here.


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  93. #493
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    I use one of the adapters to use a Shimano 15mm TA hub with a traditional 9mm QR (5mm shaft) and it works great. If I recall, the machined adapter is a bit hefty which may be a negative if you're pursuing Roval control carbons.

    Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk

  94. #494
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    Hi Joe,

    I have the 2014 Control SL 29 142+ wheels and I want to use them with a 2013 Rockshox with quick release.
    So, I need the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap ('Rock Shox').

    The part number for that is: S125900007.
    Unfortunately, my (Canadian) LBS was told that the part will not be available for a while (2-3 months).

    Can you tell me where I can buy one from the US?
    Or does anybody was just purchase the 2014 Roval control wheels and would like to sell their end cap for the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap (Rockshox)?


    Thanks

  95. #495
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    Hi Roval Joe,

    I have the 2014 Control SL 29 142+ wheels and I want to use them with a 2013 Rockshox with quick release.
    So, I need the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap ('Rock Shox').

    The part number for that is: S125900007.
    Unfortunately, my (Canadian) LBS was told that the part will not be available for a while (2-3 months).

    Can you tell me where I can buy one from the US?
    Or does anybody was just purchase the 2014 Roval control wheels and would like to sell their end cap for the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap (Rockshox)?


    Thanks

  96. #496
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    Hey Everyone,
    whoa, the 9mm QR thing really blew up on here in the past day or so! just to clear things up:
    - we do offer 24mm OS end caps for our wheels, which use a standard 5mm QR axle.
    - we do not make any size end caps that use a 9mm QR axle. Reason being is that most fork manufacturers are going to 15mm thru, and it seems to be very popular, and it's what I get the most requests for.

    Regarding the Ebay adaptor, that would add a lot of weight, when you could just get the standard 5mm OS (24mm) end caps for our wheels. Please refer to the service manual link I posted in the last few weeks, all the info is in there. If you have trouble finding something, let me know and I'll help as best I can.

    thanks.

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by pseguin View Post
    Hi Roval Joe,

    I have the 2014 Control SL 29 142+ wheels and I want to use them with a 2013 Rockshox with quick release.
    So, I need the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap ('Rock Shox').

    The part number for that is: S125900007.
    Unfortunately, my (Canadian) LBS was told that the part will not be available for a while (2-3 months).

    Can you tell me where I can buy one from the US?
    Or does anybody was just purchase the 2014 Roval control wheels and would like to sell their end cap for the Front Hub: 28mm QR end cap (Rockshox)?


    Thanks
    pseguin- We are not set up as a consumer direct sales organization, but you could try calling our USA service center (801) 886-2453 and see if they could help get you sorted? The other option would be to visit a USA dealer if you happen to live closer to the border, they might be able to order you one sooner? Sorry for the inconvenience!

  98. #498
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    Hello to all,

    I have a 2012 set of Control 29 SL and am looking for a set of 28mm end caps to replace the 24mm ones currently on the wheel. I have a Rock Shox fork with standard QR so I am looking for the Rock Shox marked caps. I see lots of guys upgrading to larger axles and am hoping that someone might be willing to part with the caps that come off. I have been told that Specialized will have them back in stock in August or September! If anyone has a set they would like to sell please drop me a line.

    Thanks and keep up the good work Joe!

  99. #499
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    Hi Joe. I just bought a new 2013 29er Epic Marathon that came with the Roval Control Carbon wheels. First off, let me say I love these wheels! I'm very impressed so far. A couple questions;

    1) The 2013 Epic Marathon has QR front, and the 2014 has Through-Axle front. Is the OS28 as stiff as a through axle on the 2014? I read somewhere that Specialized said the OS28 was stiffer than some Maxle setups.
    2) Secondly, my rear wheel is 142+, but it looks like the aftermarket wheel-set you sell does not come that way. Is the 142+ only an OE offering and are there other differences between OE wheels and the ones you sell? In your experience, is the 142+ really stiffer?
    3) I am 6'2" and weigh 220. Am I safe as far as my weight goes with this wheel.
    4) As far as strength goes, is the Control Carbon 29 stronger than the Control SL 29? The reason I ask is both are rated for riders up to 240 lbs, but it sounds like there is a perception the Control is a bit stronger than the SL.

    Thank you so much for your responses and this thread in general. Clearly, there is a TON on interest in the Control Carbon 29 wheel, and for good reason.

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highvactech View Post
    Hello to all,

    I have a 2012 set of Control 29 SL and am looking for a set of 28mm end caps to replace the 24mm ones currently on the wheel. I have a Rock Shox fork with standard QR so I am looking for the Rock Shox marked caps. I see lots of guys upgrading to larger axles and am hoping that someone might be willing to part with the caps that come off. I have been told that Specialized will have them back in stock in August or September! If anyone has a set they would like to sell please drop me a line.

    Thanks and keep up the good work Joe!
    Highvactech- I'm showing the PN for these end caps as S125900007, and that we have over 30 available. Is the shop you're dealing with referencing the same PN?

  101. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Hi Joe. I just bought a new 2013 29er Epic Marathon that came with the Roval Control Carbon wheels. First off, let me say I love these wheels! I'm very impressed so far. A couple questions;

    1) The 2013 Epic Marathon has QR front, and the 2014 has Through-Axle front. Is the OS28 as stiff as a through axle on the 2014? I read somewhere that Specialized said the OS28 was stiffer than some Maxle setups.
    2) Secondly, my rear wheel is 142+, but it looks like the aftermarket wheel-set you sell does not come that way. Is the 142+ only an OE offering and are there other differences between OE wheels and the ones you sell? In your experience, is the 142+ really stiffer?
    3) I am 6'2" and weigh 220. Am I safe as far as my weight goes with this wheel.
    4) As far as strength goes, is the Control Carbon 29 stronger than the Control SL 29? The reason I ask is both are rated for riders up to 240 lbs, but it sounds like there is a perception the Control is a bit stronger than the SL.

    Thank you so much for your responses and this thread in general. Clearly, there is a TON on interest in the Control Carbon 29 wheel, and for good reason.
    trmn8er- ok, let me try to answer everything here:
    1) When 15mm thru axles came out, there was not a lot of time spent on dropout design from fork manufacturers, so with our 28mm end caps, we were equally as stiff, but significantly lighter. Over the years, most manufacturers have begun gravitating to 15mm thru designs for xc/trail forks and because of this, they have spent a lot more time refining the DO design and axles as well, so it's now very close between 15mm thru and our 28mm end caps with 5mm qr.
    2)We sell both 142+ and 135mm wheels for SL models, and only 135mm for models below that, like Control Carbon (keep in mind our 135 wheels are convertible to 142 standard with endcaps that come with the wheels). 142+ wheels will only work on Specialized frames, but the reason we do this is because we were able to push the spoke flange and cassette out an additional 2mm, which provides about 10% more stiffness.
    3) you should have no problem with these wheels
    4) The Control Carbon is more overbuilt than the SL, so it's impact resistance is higher than the SL, and it is a stiffer wheelset as well.

    hope this helps, let me know if you have any further questions?

  102. #502
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    Joe,

    Thanks so much for the reply. I have asked my LBS to confirm with SB Canada on what was ordered for me. Am I reading correctly that the part number provided is a kit with both caps then? I see on another thread a photo of both caps with the same part and they look correct, although a different thread has this part number for 15mm axle!

    Cheers,
    Sean

  103. #503
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    Joe, thanks again for the detailed reply. One more quick one; how much do the tubes weigh that came as original equipment on my 2013 Marathon 29? For some reason, this does not seem to be published anywhere I can find on your web site.

  104. #504
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highvactech View Post
    Joe,

    Thanks so much for the reply. I have asked my LBS to confirm with SB Canada on what was ordered for me. Am I reading correctly that the part number provided is a kit with both caps then? I see on another thread a photo of both caps with the same part and they look correct, although a different thread has this part number for 15mm axle!

    Cheers,
    Sean
    Hi Sean, thanks for checking back on this. I have to apologize, I actually gave you the PN for the 28mm QR end caps. PN for 24mm QR end caps is S12500009.

  105. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Joe, thanks again for the detailed reply. One more quick one; how much do the tubes weigh that came as original equipment on my 2013 Marathon 29? For some reason, this does not seem to be published anywhere I can find on your web site.
    no problem. There are a lot of components we don't publish weights for since there is a tolerance, and some tubes may be heavier than others. For reference though, I weighed one here at my desk this morning, and it was 151g. So it should be in the neighborhood of that weight.

  106. #506
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    no problem. There are a lot of components we don't publish weights for since there is a tolerance, and some tubes may be heavier than others. For reference though, I weighed one here at my desk this morning, and it was 151g. So it should be in the neighborhood of that weight.
    Outstanding Joe. Thanks again!

  107. #507
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    Would anyone out there with a 142+ rear axle be interested in trading their regular 10 speed hub body for my XD?

    The XD hub body that I have is new, and comes with the specific 142+ drive side adapter...I am looking for a new condition 10 speed hub (no cassette gouging) with the 142+ specific drive side adapter.

    PM me if interested, thanks.

  108. #508
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    Joe,

    It was the 28mm caps for a standard QR for a 2012 front wheel that I was interested in, as I have a set of 24mm currently. I see a photo where there are the two different caps with the same part number and they look correct. Hopefully will be able to sort out ordering them from SBC through my LBS in Canada. Thanks again for your help. I am loving my new to me 2012 Epic S-Works.

    Sean

  109. #509
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    Joe,

    I was away and did some internet digging. I came up with the Roval Service Kit brochure for 2012-2013 as a .pdf. I also took a closer look at my wheels and notice I have Control Trail 29 SL marked on the rim. I also recall that when we replaced the hub bearings they were different sizes. So it looks like I have a LFM07 front hub that would need part number S125900004 for the 28mm end caps. It was odd for me that the front wheel did not have the correct caps for the fork and it looks like somewhere along the way the wheels have been changed from what we assume were the stock Control 29 SL. Ths is an XL size bike and perhaps they wanted something more durable. Works for me, even though they are slightly heavier.
    So maybe SBC has the right caps on order! Can you confirm the availability of this part number and let me know? Thanks so much for all your help. For those interested the Roval Service Kit brochure has some great info on these wheels if you have a slightly older set.

    http://service.specialized.com/asc/C...ice-kit-rA.pdf

    There are other MY versions of this out there that have similar info in them.

  110. #510
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    Is there any way I can make my buddies 142+ rear hub work on my 12x135 frame? Anyone know which adapters I need to use to make this work if I can. I have the freehub body off the carbon model he took off when he went to xx1. his hub is marked 135, I dont know what the difference is.

  111. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highvactech View Post
    Joe,

    I was away and did some internet digging. I came up with the Roval Service Kit brochure for 2012-2013 as a .pdf. I also took a closer look at my wheels and notice I have Control Trail 29 SL marked on the rim. I also recall that when we replaced the hub bearings they were different sizes. So it looks like I have a LFM07 front hub that would need part number S125900004 for the 28mm end caps. It was odd for me that the front wheel did not have the correct caps for the fork and it looks like somewhere along the way the wheels have been changed from what we assume were the stock Control 29 SL. Ths is an XL size bike and perhaps they wanted something more durable. Works for me, even though they are slightly heavier.
    So maybe SBC has the right caps on order! Can you confirm the availability of this part number and let me know? Thanks so much for all your help. For those interested the Roval Service Kit brochure has some great info on these wheels if you have a slightly older set.

    http://service.specialized.com/asc/C...ice-kit-rA.pdf

    There are other MY versions of this out there that have similar info in them.
    Highvatech- ok, that would make sense then. the end caps you're looking for are in stock so the shop should be able to get them fairly quick! thanks for checking out the service kit info- lots of good reference info in there.

  112. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Is there any way I can make my buddies 142+ rear hub work on my 12x135 frame? Anyone know which adapters I need to use to make this work if I can. I have the freehub body off the carbon model he took off when he went to xx1. his hub is marked 135, I dont know what the difference is.
    hitechredneck- DT makes a 12x135mm end caps that would fit on that hub, but when you install them, the width becomes 137mm instead of 135mm.

  113. #513
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    Roval Joe ,

    Very much appreciate your contribution for the Roval Wheelset and I am gaining knowledge reading the last 4 pages of this thread . I have a few questions for ya

    1) I just purchased a set of barley used Carbon control trail SL and wondering about my weight and riding style . I weigh 199lbs and dropping and I am a trail rider . I have the stock control trail alloy Wheelset that came with my Camber EVO expert . I wanted a stiffer Wheelset plus it adds to the carbon motif . Do you think this Wheelset will work for me ? I do like to catch some air and drop offs , nothing major though.

    2) The front wheel according to the seller has the OS24 end caps . My front wheel that came stock with the OS28 end caps . I also added the DT Swiss RWS instead of the Stock QR to add stiffness . Do I Need just to swap out the end caps between the 2 front hubs ?
    2014 YETI SB95C , KS LEV seat post,Nextie Carbon Wheelset/Hope Hubs/27lbs
    Framed Alaskan Carbon X1 /26lbs/Nextie Hoops.

  114. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnicosia View Post
    Roval Joe ,

    Very much appreciate your contribution for the Roval Wheelset and I am gaining knowledge reading the last 4 pages of this thread . I have a few questions for ya

    1) I just purchased a set of barley used Carbon control trail SL and wondering about my weight and riding style . I weigh 199lbs and dropping and I am a trail rider . I have the stock control trail alloy Wheelset that came with my Camber EVO expert . I wanted a stiffer Wheelset plus it adds to the carbon motif . Do you think this Wheelset will work for me ? I do like to catch some air and drop offs , nothing major though.

    2) The front wheel according to the seller has the OS24 end caps . My front wheel that came stock with the OS28 end caps . I also added the DT Swiss RWS instead of the Stock QR to add stiffness . Do I Need just to swap out the end caps between the 2 front hubs ?
    jnicosia- to answer your first question, I'll need a little more info:
    - what tires are you running, Butcher/Purgatory that came with the bike, or?
    - what kind of terrain are you riding?
    - have you had problems denting rims in the past with alloy?

    for #2- what model year is your Camber Expert Evo? I'm guessing it is the previous generation since you mention the fork is QR, but the Pike on 2014 Camber Expert Evo is actually a 15mm thru axle?

  115. #515
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    The seller sold me the mounted specialized tires too. The front is purgatory control 2.2 and the rear is ground control 2.1.

    My EVO is 2013 and has the fast tracs tires on them. , I have not had any issues yet with the alloy rims just thought since I found a pretty nice used set for an affordable price i'd pick them up.

    My Camber EVO is 2013 with QR
    2014 YETI SB95C , KS LEV seat post,Nextie Carbon Wheelset/Hope Hubs/27lbs
    Framed Alaskan Carbon X1 /26lbs/Nextie Hoops.

  116. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by jnicosia View Post
    The seller sold me the mounted specialized tires too. The front is purgatory control 2.2 and the rear is ground control 2.1.

    My EVO is 2013 and has the fast tracs tires on them. , I have not had any issues yet with the alloy rims just thought since I found a pretty nice used set for an affordable price i'd pick them up.

    My Camber EVO is 2013 with QR
    ok, got it. you'll likely be fine with these carbon wheels, just make sure your not riding too low of an air pressure and smacking rocks. If your current bike has the same hub, then yeah, you can just swap over the end caps and you'll be fine. Enjoy!

  117. #517
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    Hey Roval Joe -

    Trying to solve mystery of proper end caps for Roval Control EL 29er (2010/2011). Page 15 (Post #368) of this thread was useful as I'm looking for QR OM24 and TA 15mm caps and 2 different LBS couldn't find the right part as I've been shipped two wrong sets so far.

    In that post, Jack'sDad noted "Joe that pic is what I got, way too small. Off your PDF those are too small as well. I have left as 41mm tall and 35.3 long. 2nd flange is shorter at 36mm; on right I have 31mm tall and 29mm long."

    Dimensions he notes seem to be what my OM 28's are. I was sent OM 24 parts S2030049 and S2030050 - RIGHT side (non-brake) is proper diameter (both flanges) and fits perfectly in the hub but is ~5mm too short, making for an overall narrower hub than fits in a standard 135mm fork.

    Also have TA 15mm parts S115900006/07 and RIGHT side is also ~5mm too short.

    Have attached a pic of various end caps. Right to Left: Proper fitting OM 28 RIGHT, OM 24 S2030049 too short RIGHT, TA 15mm S115900006 too short RIGHT. 3 on the left are the left side (brake side) end caps in same order. You can see that the two newer RIGHT sides are markedly shorter than the original (far right). Roval questions?-roval-end-caps.jpg

    Can you help me find the right part numbers for these RIGHT side end caps? Curious if the difference is 1st vs 2nd generation of this particular model year Control EL front hub?

    Many thanks
    Last edited by chobbesm; 04-02-2014 at 07:30 AM.

  118. #518
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    2013 Control SL Front hub

    I would like to ask if Roval produced any 2013 control sl with non-carbon front hub. I bought one second handed wheel that seems having alloy front hub. If so, I presume it has different bearings than alloy/carbon hub version, right?

  119. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by chobbesm View Post
    Hey Roval Joe -

    Trying to solve mystery of proper end caps for Roval Control EL 29er (2010/2011). Page 15 (Post #368) of this thread was useful as I'm looking for QR OM24 and TA 15mm caps and 2 different LBS couldn't find the right part as I've been shipped two wrong sets so far.

    In that post, Jack'sDad noted "Joe that pic is what I got, way too small. Off your PDF those are too small as well. I have left as 41mm tall and 35.3 long. 2nd flange is shorter at 36mm; on right I have 31mm tall and 29mm long."

    Dimensions he notes seem to be what my OM 28's are. I was sent OM 24 parts S2030049 and S2030050 - RIGHT side (non-brake) is proper diameter (both flanges) and fits perfectly in the hub but is ~5mm too short, making for an overall narrower hub than fits in a standard 135mm fork.

    Also have TA 15mm parts S115900006/07 and RIGHT side is also ~5mm too short.

    Have attached a pic of various end caps. Right to Left: Proper fitting OM 28 RIGHT, OM 24 S2030049 too short RIGHT, TA 15mm S115900006 too short RIGHT. 3 on the left are the left side (brake side) end caps in same order. You can see that the two newer RIGHT sides are markedly shorter than the original (far right). Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Roval End Caps.jpg 
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    Can you help me find the right part numbers for these RIGHT side end caps? Curious if the difference is 1st vs 2nd generation of this particular model year Control EL front hub?

    Many thanks
    chobbesm- In Jack'sdad's case, he was measuring the end caps incorrectly, so it ended up that the caps we sent him actually worked. For your case, can you please go to my post #457 from this thread, click on the link and confirm that the right side end caps you have match the given dimensions there? This will help me in sorting out what you need. thanks.

  120. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camelo View Post
    I would like to ask if Roval produced any 2013 control sl with non-carbon front hub. I bought one second handed wheel that seems having alloy front hub. If so, I presume it has different bearings than alloy/carbon hub version, right?
    Camelo- we did not produce any Control SL wheels in 2013 with an alloy front hub. Could it be that you have a Control Trail SL wheel? That model used an alloy hub.

  121. #521
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    Thanks Joe -
    LFM07 looks like my hub. PDF has no specs beside bearing info, and I don't really want to pull those out. Visually, they are a match.
    I've attached that PDF with my wheel's measurement across noted (77-78mm) for reference. Feel like at some point I found specs on Roval front hubs and one generation was longer (84mm) than another, so I have the narrower version that needs the longer extension on the end caps.
    Caps I have fit the diameter brilliantly, but they do not extend long enough. Need approx 11mm extension from outer-most flange, and set I have only extends 5-6mm. Previous post photo shows that clearly in the right side caps.
    Hope this is what you need to help solve my mystery. Please let me know what more info I can offer and thanks again!
    Attached Files Attached Files

  122. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Camelo- we did
    ot produce any Control SL wheels in 2013 with an alloy front hub. Could it be that you have a Control Trail SL wheel? That model used an alloy hub.
    I am pretty sure the wheel is control sl.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Roval questions?-rovalhub.jpg  


  123. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camelo View Post
    I am pretty sure the wheel is control sl.
    Camelo- the rim is labeled as a Control SL, but it also is the same rim as used on the Control Trail SL (just with a different graphic). This looks to me like you may have gotten this wheel second hand from a previous owner who had a warranty/crash replacement rim replacement.

  124. #524
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    Hi Joe. I've tried doing due diligence by reading through most of this post but all the end cap discussions have me confused a bit. I want to run a set of the roval 29 sls on my cross bike. I have standard qr up front and 135 rear. Bike has discs. Will probably buy new set of wheels but if I come across a decent pair from a year or two ago, will I be able to use them on my bike easily? Also, will the rims work well with tubeless cross tires at 30 to 40 psi (love the Captains!)?

  125. #525
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    I have a set of Control SL 29s. I'm trying to convert the front hub to a 15mm TA. I went to the LBS where they were able to confirm the part number as S125900010 as referenced earlier, but Specialized customer service said that they were out of stock with no idea as to when they would be available again. Any ideas when we can expect a fresh batch, or if there is a secret stash somewhere? Trying to mount these wheels up with my new fork.

  126. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by ndehlinger View Post
    Hi Joe. I've tried doing due diligence by reading through most of this post but all the end cap discussions have me confused a bit. I want to run a set of the roval 29 sls on my cross bike. I have standard qr up front and 135 rear. Bike has discs. Will probably buy new set of wheels but if I come across a decent pair from a year or two ago, will I be able to use them on my bike easily? Also, will the rims work well with tubeless cross tires at 30 to 40 psi (love the Captains!)?
    ndehlinger- First off, thanks for taking the time to research this thread! regarding whether Control SL's will fit on your cross bike, I believe they should:
    - Front wheel: whether you are getting the MY14 SL's or previous years, they come with a QR end cap at 100mm spacing which is what your cross bike should have. The only thing you'll want to check is to see that there is no interference with the hub shell/end cap and the fork dropout. These were designed for mtn forks, and they work fine in these applications, but in some road forks, there has been some interference between the hub shell or the end cap and the fork leg/dropout. It's best to test fit the wheel in your frame to know for sure before purchasing.
    - rear wheel: you will want to make sure you purchase the 135mm version of our Control SL's, NOT the 142+, as 142+ cannot be converted to 135mm.
    - Both the MY14 and previous models will work fine for tubeless at the pressures you are talking about, however, the MY14 Control SL's have an extra mm of internal width (which will support your cross tires better at the lower pressures) and are more resistant to impact damage.

    We recently introduced a demo program to our dealers that encouraged them to bring in our Control Carbon and Control SL wheelsets for public demos. It's possible that a shop near you has participated in this program, and has or will soon have some wheels that you could actually mount up and try on your bike. I'd encourage you to go try them out and see what you think, it's the best way to know for sure that you're getting what you want. It's a bummer to hear people being let down when they purchase something purely off internet hype, and are let down by the product. Let me know if you need help finding the closest shop to try out some of our wheels.

  127. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex_racer View Post
    I have a set of Control SL 29s. I'm trying to convert the front hub to a 15mm TA. I went to the LBS where they were able to confirm the part number as S125900010 as referenced earlier, but Specialized customer service said that they were out of stock with no idea as to when they would be available again. Any ideas when we can expect a fresh batch, or if there is a secret stash somewhere? Trying to mount these wheels up with my new fork.
    rex_racer- hmm, let me dig in on this and get back to you shortly.

  128. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    rex_racer- hmm, let me dig in on this and get back to you shortly.
    Roval Joe - Just sent you a PM, let me know if you did not receive it. Thanks.

  129. #529
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    Hi Everyone,
    a few times lately I've encouraged people interested in Roval wheels to go test ride them. We recently set up a program with our USA dealers for them to demo our Control Carbon and Control SL wheel models, so this makes it pretty easy to do so. If you want to find a dealer participating in this program, go to Specialized: Choose Region + Language, click on dealer locater, and click on Roval Wheel Demo Center. Enter your zip code, and it will bring up the shop(s) in your area. Hope this helps anyone considering a wheel purchase!

  130. #530
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    I am not sure what is up with the Control Carbon's. They are a little bit heavier than the wheels they replaced but I have set two PR's after switching to them.

  131. #531
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    142+ for Carve Pro 2013

    Hi Joe
    Will a pair of Roval Control 29 142+ fit on a Carve Pro 2013?
    Thanks

  132. #532
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    Roval Joe,

    I broke the drive side spoke on my Roval Control 29. Wheels are stock from 2012 Stumpjumper Expert Carbon Hardtail. I think I found the correct spoke length for the Control Carbons: Straight Pull DT 299mm.

    I can't find this DT length stocked anywhere. It does not appear to be a standard DT spoke length.

    Can you confirm 299mm is the correct length? My tape measure says ~300mm.

    Thanks!

  133. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by fibaek View Post
    Hi Joe
    Will a pair of Roval Control 29 142+ fit on a Carve Pro 2013?
    Thanks
    fibaek- Carve's are 135mm dropout, so the 142+ wheelset would not work on that bike.

  134. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by spec29 View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I broke the drive side spoke on my Roval Control 29. Wheels are stock from 2012 Stumpjumper Expert Carbon Hardtail. I think I found the correct spoke length for the Control Carbons: Straight Pull DT 299mm.

    I can't find this DT length stocked anywhere. It does not appear to be a standard DT spoke length.

    Can you confirm 299mm is the correct length? My tape measure says ~300mm.

    Thanks!
    Spec29- are you talking about the front or rear wheel? You mention drive side, so probably rear, but just want to be sure before getting the length

  135. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Spec29- are you talking about the front or rear wheel? You mention drive side, so probably rear, but just want to be sure before getting the length
    Sorry. Yes. Rear wheel.

    I ordered 300mm CX-Ray. Hopefully they will work?

    Thanks!

  136. #536
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    Roval Joe , Im getting a set of 2012 roval control sl 29 carbon 135/142 wheels they are set up with QR's i want to set them up for my 2012 epic comp 29 all stock which is thru axle. Can you give me the part #s i need to do this conversion. My LBS says it will take them a week just to look into it. i figure i can just get them the part #s to speed things up a bit.

  137. #537
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    I broke a spoke on the drive side of my 2013 Roval Control SL 29. I looked it up that they are DT Swiss Revolution spokes. What length is the one that I need to replace? Better yet, what are the lengths of all 4 so that I can purchase extras in case I need them.

    Thanks!

  138. #538
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    Roval Joe - I have to say congrats to Specialized for their market leading hookless design. Looks like everyone; Enve, Nox Composites, Ibis, Light-Bicycles, has re-designed their rims and eliminated the bead-hook. Also good work answering questions and explaining the design advantages to all of us online.

  139. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    I broke a spoke on the drive side of my 2013 Roval Control SL 29. I looked it up that they are DT Swiss Revolution spokes. What length is the one that I need to replace? Better yet, what are the lengths of all 4 so that I can purchase extras in case I need them.

    Thanks!
    tooclosetosee- please have a look earlier in the thread where I've posted a link to our service info, where you can look up all the spoke information, including part number and length. If you can't find it, I'll be happy to help you a bit later, just pinched for time at the moment. Thanks.

  140. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by davemk View Post
    Roval Joe - I have to say congrats to Specialized for their market leading hookless design. Looks like everyone; Enve, Nox Composites, Ibis, Light-Bicycles, has re-designed their rims and eliminated the bead-hook. Also good work answering questions and explaining the design advantages to all of us online.
    davemk- Thanks for that. It originally took a bit for people to wrap their heads around, but seems like people are coming around to it! Have to admit I was surprised to see it happen so fast.

  141. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by spec29 View Post
    Sorry. Yes. Rear wheel.

    I ordered 300mm CX-Ray. Hopefully they will work?

    Thanks!
    For future reference: Was able to use the 300mm CX-ray with a Sapin nipple, but the spoke was a little short. 301 to 302mm would be perfect. The DT nipple would not thread. Got a Sapin nipple from a friend.

  142. #542
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    roval joe,

    i'm in the market for a wheelset for my 2014 sworks epic wc, control sl and enve mseries 50 or 60 are top of the list. i know that there are many similarities, beadless hook, dt 240 internals, etc. How do these compare or differ regarding stiffness, handling, durability, etc. any thought or elaboration on the subject would be appreciated. also, if i go with the sl's, i will be running sram xx1. i'm aware that i'll need a xd driver, will i be using the 142+ end cap already on the hub or will i need to order that as well? what part number would i need to order? thanks

  143. #543
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    I have a 2014 Specialized Enduro Comp 29er. On the Specialized website it says that it comes with Roval 29 rims. When I try and look up info on those rims I can't find anything as all that shows on the Specialized website is Traverse and Control versions, nothing that is just Roval. Are the rims on my Enduro Tubeless Ready or would I need rim tape? What is the difference in spec between my Roval 29 and the Roval Traverse 29? Eventually hoping to upgrade to the carbon versions, but just purchased the bike so it will be a little while. Thanks.

  144. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrepicrdr View Post
    roval joe,

    i'm in the market for a wheelset for my 2014 sworks epic wc, control sl and enve mseries 50 or 60 are top of the list. i know that there are many similarities, beadless hook, dt 240 internals, etc. How do these compare or differ regarding stiffness, handling, durability, etc. any thought or elaboration on the subject would be appreciated. also, if i go with the sl's, i will be running sram xx1. i'm aware that i'll need a xd driver, will i be using the 142+ end cap already on the hub or will i need to order that as well? what part number would i need to order? thanks
    mstrepicrdr- sorry for the lag, I was out on vacation. So I have to apologize here, since the Enve's just launched, I don't have much familiarity with them. Looks like the 50 would be a similar rim to ours, with stock DT 240 hubs, 28h F/R. Our wheels are the same inner width, use 24/28h, a DT 240 based rear hub, and then a custom DT made front hub that is loads lighter than the DT 240 front hub you can buy off the shelf. Our DT front hub also has extra sealing features from the standard 240 hub, so not only is it lighter, but it's more robust. I'm guessing our Control SL's are going to come in a fair bit lighter (1370g for our wheelset, and if you want to go all out and save every gram possible, you can drop another 30-40g by taping the rims instead of using the rim strip) than the Enve's. I don't really have a feel for their stiffness/ride quality, so I'm at a loss there. The best I can tell you is that the Control SL's will feel snappier due to lower weight. However, like I've mentioned on previous posts, you can locate a dealer near you that you can go demo the Control SL's and get a feel for them yourself. If you decide to buy these wheels, you'll need to order the driver with the 142+ end cap, as your standard cap will not be compatible. PN for driver/cap is S132100005.

  145. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhReAkShO View Post
    I have a 2014 Specialized Enduro Comp 29er. On the Specialized website it says that it comes with Roval 29 rims. When I try and look up info on those rims I can't find anything as all that shows on the Specialized website is Traverse and Control versions, nothing that is just Roval. Are the rims on my Enduro Tubeless Ready or would I need rim tape? What is the difference in spec between my Roval 29 and the Roval Traverse 29? Eventually hoping to upgrade to the carbon versions, but just purchased the bike so it will be a little while. Thanks.
    PhReAkShO- The rim you have is the exact same rim that comes on the Roval Traverse Alloy 29 wheelset, but with a different graphic. It uses DT Industry spokes, as compared to DT Supercomp spokes on the Traverse wheelset, and the hubs are OE hubs VS DT rear and QR/Thru axle compatible front hub on the Traverse Alloy. So, you can set your wheels up tubeless, all you need to do is remove the tube and install the tubeless valve stems that came with your bike. Your wheels already have tubeless rim strips in them. If the shop you bought your bike from did not supply you with the valve stems, just go back and ask for them, they come with the bike in the small parts box. Finally, you'll need to add a sealant of your choice. Should be pretty easy.

  146. #546
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    I just ordered a RIP 9 and they offered the Control Carbons as an upgrade over the Stans Flow EX. I currently ride a Bontrager Rhythm Pro (last years / scandium) how will they compare?
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy CC

  147. #547
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    Hey Roval Joe, that can you tell me about the roval dh wheels that come stock on the 2014 demo carbon with the 12x150mm rear hub? Are they proprietary design or rebadged. Seen a few sets for sale but cannot find out much info. are they tubless ready?

    thanks

  148. #548
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    Quote Originally Posted by stygz1 View Post
    I just ordered a RIP 9 and they offered the Control Carbons as an upgrade over the Stans Flow EX. I currently ride a Bontrager Rhythm Pro (last years / scandium) how will they compare?
    stygz1- I could not find out much info on the Rhythm pro scandium model, just some weights on their 26" set, which are considerably heavier than our Control Carbon 29. So I don't know inner rim width, but what I can tell you is that you'll probably notice is that the Control Carbon's will be stiffer, and have a snappier feel to them since they are so much lighter. They will also have a quicker engagement in the FH since we have a 36t (10 degree) engagement. hope this helps.

  149. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by antihero19 View Post
    Hey Roval Joe, that can you tell me about the roval dh wheels that come stock on the 2014 demo carbon with the 12x150mm rear hub? Are they proprietary design or rebadged. Seen a few sets for sale but cannot find out much info. are they tubless ready?

    thanks
    antihero19- These rims use the same material as our all the other alloy rims in our Roval line, and they are designed by the Roval team, not just a rebranded off the shelf rim. They are tubeless ready in that they come with a tubeless ready rim strip, so you would just need to add a valve stem and sealant.

  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    stygz1- I could not find out much info on the Rhythm pro scandium model, just some weights on their 26" set, which are considerably heavier than our Control Carbon 29. So I don't know inner rim width, but what I can tell you is that you'll probably notice is that the Control Carbon's will be stiffer, and have a snappier feel to them since they are so much lighter. They will also have a quicker engagement in the FH since we have a 36t (10 degree) engagement. hope this helps.

    Thank you, looking forward to the rovals completing my trail bike!
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy CC

  151. #551
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    Roval Joe, I have some Roval Traverse wheels that came off a stumpy evo hardtail that I wil be using on another bike. I had he LBS order end caps to convert the rear hub from 135 X 10 to 142 X 12. When I took off the existing end caps and threaded bolt it doesn't look like it will work. When I try to stick the rws through it gets on caught up on some internal bearings. Are there some wheels/hubs that don't convert, or do I need to order an axle?

  152. #552
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpo1 View Post
    Roval Joe, I have some Roval Traverse wheels that came off a stumpy evo hardtail that I wil be using on another bike. I had he LBS order end caps to convert the rear hub from 135 X 10 to 142 X 12. When I took off the existing end caps and threaded bolt it doesn't look like it will work. When I try to stick the rws through it gets on caught up on some internal bearings. Are there some wheels/hubs that don't convert, or do I need to order an axle?
    jpo1- The Stumpy Evo HT comes with Traverse rims, but these are laced to OE hubs, which are much different from the Traverse wheelset. unfortunately those hubs are not convertible to other axle options.

  153. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    jpo1- The Stumpy Evo HT comes with Traverse rims, but these are laced to OE hubs, which are much different from the Traverse wheelset. unfortunately those hubs are not convertible to other axle options.
    Bummer. Thanks for the response!

  154. #554
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    Hi Roval Joe,

    I need your help. I recently purchased some second hand roval control SL wheels which I must say are great except I can't find the correct 15mm end caps. I purchased what seemed like the correct set, being the S125900010 set but one of them did not fit correctly which I did not notice until mid easter weekend after lots of riding :-(

    Please see below pictures of the old end cap and the new one. As you can see, the edges of the new one have been "sanded" down by the hub over the course of 4 days of riding.

    Roval questions?-13982154552_130be65737_b_d.jpg

    Roval questions?-14005350713_eeb2278e73_b_d.jpg

    Please advise which end caps I need.

    It might be I need S115900003 and S115900004?

    Thanks Neil

  155. #555
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    Or do I need S2030049 and S2030050? So confused !

  156. #556
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    Quote Originally Posted by neiloxford View Post
    Hi Roval Joe,

    I need your help. I recently purchased some second hand roval control SL wheels which I must say are great except I can't find the correct 15mm end caps. I purchased what seemed like the correct set, being the S125900010 set but one of them did not fit correctly which I did not notice until mid easter weekend after lots of riding :-(

    Please see below pictures of the old end cap and the new one. As you can see, the edges of the new one have been "sanded" down by the hub over the course of 4 days of riding.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Please advise which end caps I need.

    It might be I need S115900003 and S115900004?

    Thanks Neil
    Neil,
    can you tell me what year exactly they are? or, can you send me a clear photo of the wheel that shows the rim graphic and hub clearly? this will help identify the wheel year.

  157. #557
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    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for the quick reply. I am unsure of the year, but please see some photos below.

    Roval questions?-14000220495_56ff0dec5d_b_d.jpg

    Roval questions?-13997029242_93e97e7acb_b_d.jpg

    Roval questions?-14000666594_90705a1394_b_d.jpg

    Regards Neil

  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by neiloxford View Post
    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for the quick reply. I am unsure of the year, but please see some photos below.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Regards Neil
    Hey Neil- pictures are perfect, thanks! you need S115900003. This is the right side (drive side) end cap for that hub. Reason why one end cap worked and one didn't was that we increased the width of that hub you have in later versions to gain stiffness, on the right side. So your disc side works fine since that didn't change, but the right side did not work.

  159. #559
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    Thank you very much, now just have to see if Specialized UK have one in stock.

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    Joe,
    I am thinking about converting my 5mm axle setup to a 9mm thru axle. I have access to a machine shop to open up the caps on my Control Trail SL's. Any risks here that I should be aware of? Is there much to gain in terms of stiffness going this way? Seems simple enough to do. I would probably go with a DT RWS skewer similar to the 142 setup on the rear of my Epic.
    Thanks,
    Sean

  161. #561
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    Do the Roval Control 29 Carbon come already taped up?

    Can you confirm the Roval Control 29 Carbon will work with the current axles on my 2012 Stumpjumer Ht Evo 29?

    Thanks

  162. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highvactech View Post
    Joe,
    I am thinking about converting my 5mm axle setup to a 9mm thru axle. I have access to a machine shop to open up the caps on my Control Trail SL's. Any risks here that I should be aware of? Is there much to gain in terms of stiffness going this way? Seems simple enough to do. I would probably go with a DT RWS skewer similar to the 142 setup on the rear of my Epic.
    Thanks,
    Sean
    Hey Sean, I can't tell you of any things to watch out for, as I've never done this before. You might gain a small bit of stiffness from going to a 9mm RWS, but would it be more stiffness than just going to a 5mm RWS skewer? I don't know for sure, but doubt whether you'd be able to feel it if there were.

  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edcft View Post
    Do the Roval Control 29 Carbon come already taped up?

    Can you confirm the Roval Control 29 Carbon will work with the current axles on my 2012 Stumpjumer Ht Evo 29?

    Thanks
    Edcft- Control Carbons (as well as all of our Roval wheelsets) do not use tape. Instead we use a tubeless rim strip that is more reliable than tape. This rim strip comes with the wheel and is already installed, so all you have to do is install the tire and sealant. If you wanted to save a little weight, and felt comfortable taping your rims, you could remove the rim strip and tape them, which would save you in the neighborhood of 40g for the set on Control Carbon's.

    In regards to compatibility, Control Carbon's would fit directly onto your SJ HT, no problem.

  164. #564
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    Roval Joe, in what way is the tubeless rim strip more reliable than tape? Thanks, just bought the Control Carbons and I am curious about the strip versus tape.

  165. #565
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    I have the same queestion - is the depth of the tape vs the rim strip going to cause an issue with the bead/rim interface? I have been running Stan's tape for 6 years and have worn out the aluminum rim before the tape failed.

  166. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by krandrus View Post
    I have the same queestion - is the depth of the tape vs the rim strip going to cause an issue with the bead/rim interface? I have been running Stan's tape for 6 years and have worn out the aluminum rim before the tape failed.
    krandrus and MJ1- we used to use rim tape for the first few years we made Roval wheels. In that time, we had lots of complaints about the tape shifting over time, not being reusable, and sometimes peeling up on the sides when tires were removed. The rim strip is easy to install as it just snaps right over the rim, it doesn't peel back, or move over time, so overall it has gotten a lot of positive feedback from consumers and shops. We've had them in the market for a few years now, so there are thousands and thousands of them out there.

    I don't think the tape is horrible, after all, it is very light, but for some users it isn't the best option.

  167. #567
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    Hello,

    Several weeks ago, I purchased a lightly used 2012 Specialized Epic S-Works 29er. After a week of ownership, one of the spokes on the rear wheel came free during a ride. A closer look showed that the nipple had separated right at the base of the cup-shaped portion. When I removed the tire and Stan's tape, I could see that all of the nipples were corroded. When I tried to clean the heads of the nipples, chunks of aluminum fell off.

    Upon taking the wheel to the local Specialized Dealer, they said that the problem was new to them. They talked to Specialized warranty folks, who offered to send replacement DT Swiss aluminum nipples, but that I would need to cover the cost of getting the wheel rebuilt. Given the problems I was seeing in the rear wheel, I took the tire off the front. It had been taped with Gorilla tape and sealed with orange sealant. The nipples were corroded, but not to the same extent (roughly half as bad). The local dealer said that Gorilla tape should not have been used, and that there were known problems with orange sealant. The original owner said that the tires were holding pressure well during her ownership. My experience was the same during the first week I had the bike.

    As such, I talked to the dealer who sold the bike to the original owner (it is in Phoenix, which is 2 hours away). They talked to Specialized warranty folks, who said that the problem was not covered. The dealer did admit that they installed the Stan's tape and sealant when the bike was purchased, and then used Gorilla tape and orange sealant later when replacing a tire . A question surfaced as to whether or not the original owner had filled the tire using a CO2 cartridge. Online discussions suggest that CO2 may aggravate corrosion problems. Even without such a gas, however, the ammonia in the sealants seem to be highly corrosive.

    While I was waiting to get a resolution on the issue, I replaced 10 of the worst nipples on the rear wheel, cleaned all of the sealant, re-taped with regular rim tape, used a tube, and kept riding the bike. After 3 weeks of riding, I removed the tire again in order to have the rear wheel rebuilt. I was surprised to see that the new nipples were already corroding. As such, I've paused in order to figure out what to do. The mechanics at the local shop took a look and shrugged their shoulders. They only suggestion they could offer was that the corrosion on the other nipples was causing the corrosion on the new nipples. Given the fact that there wasn't any wet or dry sealant remaining in the carbon rims, this seemed unsatisfying as an explanation.

    In addition to the frustration of having to deal with this issue on a rather expensive bike that has hardly been ridden and is only 1 1/2 years old, I was concerned that corrosion would continue and that the wheels that might fail. As I have replaced the nipples (now 20 of them), several have parted right at the cup. On visual inspection, some had appeared to be corroded only on the heads. Appearances were deceiving. The corrosion gets going down inside the threaded part of the nipple and, as it corrodes on the inside and the outside, the nipples are even weaker than they look.

    Having read more online, and having talk to a few friends who are bike mechanics and wheel builders, it appears that the corrosion of the aluminum nipples on Roval and Enve wheels is a well-known problem. My good friend who is a skilled wheel builder recommended that I replace the aluminum nipples every year. Based on what I was seeing in terms of the rate of corrosion, I would need to replace them every few months--and that is when using tubes in the tires. Some online sites suggest that the corrosion may be caused by a galvanic reaction between the dissimilar metals and the epoxy resins. At this point, I don't know what to think.

    On the Enve website, they indicate that they have seen so many of these problems that they are now using brass nipples on their wheels (despite the weight penalty), and they are recommending that corroded nipples on existing wheels be rebuilt with brass nipples. My recommendation is that those who have similar wheels take the tires and tape off to see if there is corrosion building up on the nipples. I'd hate for anyone to have a failure on a wheel at an inopportune moment--resulting in serious injury. I've decided to follow Enve's lead and replace all of the nipples on both wheels with brass. The small weight penalty is nothing to me if I am able to get peace of mind that the wheels won't fail due to nipple corrosion.

    The corrosion problems appear to be well known to Shimano. In fact, their warranty specifies that it will be void if any sealant is used other than Hutchinson's, which appears to be (relatively) ammonia free. Online discussions indicate that aluminum rims can be so weakened by corrosion that they can fail.

    If anyone out there has experienced similar corrosion on Roval wheels, please let me know. In particular, if anyone has had a wheel failure resulting in injury, let me know. My background is in law, and I am exploring the possibility of bringing this more firmly to the attention of Specialized warranty. The wheels are covered for against defect (and it not limited to the original owner), the tires the come on the bike new say 2-bliss ready, and the marketing materials tout the tubeless compatibility. So far, my experience in working with the Specialized dealers and Specialized warranty has not been a very satisfying experience.

  168. #568
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    What is the ERD for the Roval Traverse 26"?

    Hi Joe,

    Excited to find this active thread! I have a 2012 Specialized Enduro with Roval Traverse rims. The rims have performed great over the last few seasons. So well in fact that I am getting ready to relace them to some new hubs. The 2012 OEM hubs have been really problematic for me and I know from reading this thread that the OEM hub issue is out of your hands.

    Long story short are you able to provide the ERD for this rim?

    Thanks,
    Sean

  169. #569
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean916 View Post
    Hi Joe,

    Excited to find this active thread! I have a 2012 Specialized Enduro with Roval Traverse rims. The rims have performed great over the last few seasons. So well in fact that I am getting ready to relace them to some new hubs. The 2012 OEM hubs have been really problematic for me and I know from reading this thread that the OEM hub issue is out of your hands.

    Long story short are you able to provide the ERD for this rim?

    Thanks,
    Sean
    Hi Sean,
    glad you are liking the rims. Typically we don't give out ERD's for Roval wheelsets, but since yours is an OE wheelset, here you go: use 537 for ERD measurement.

  170. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffDown View Post
    Hello,

    Several weeks ago, I purchased a lightly used 2012 Specialized Epic S-Works 29er. After a week of ownership, one of the spokes on the rear wheel came free during a ride. A closer look showed that the nipple had separated right at the base of the cup-shaped portion. When I removed the tire and Stan's tape, I could see that all of the nipples were corroded. When I tried to clean the heads of the nipples, chunks of aluminum fell off.

    Upon taking the wheel to the local Specialized Dealer, they said that the problem was new to them. They talked to Specialized warranty folks, who offered to send replacement DT Swiss aluminum nipples, but that I would need to cover the cost of getting the wheel rebuilt. Given the problems I was seeing in the rear wheel, I took the tire off the front. It had been taped with Gorilla tape and sealed with orange sealant. The nipples were corroded, but not to the same extent (roughly half as bad). The local dealer said that Gorilla tape should not have been used, and that there were known problems with orange sealant. The original owner said that the tires were holding pressure well during her ownership. My experience was the same during the first week I had the bike.

    As such, I talked to the dealer who sold the bike to the original owner (it is in Phoenix, which is 2 hours away). They talked to Specialized warranty folks, who said that the problem was not covered. The dealer did admit that they installed the Stan's tape and sealant when the bike was purchased, and then used Gorilla tape and orange sealant later when replacing a tire . A question surfaced as to whether or not the original owner had filled the tire using a CO2 cartridge. Online discussions suggest that CO2 may aggravate corrosion problems. Even without such a gas, however, the ammonia in the sealants seem to be highly corrosive.

    While I was waiting to get a resolution on the issue, I replaced 10 of the worst nipples on the rear wheel, cleaned all of the sealant, re-taped with regular rim tape, used a tube, and kept riding the bike. After 3 weeks of riding, I removed the tire again in order to have the rear wheel rebuilt. I was surprised to see that the new nipples were already corroding. As such, I've paused in order to figure out what to do. The mechanics at the local shop took a look and shrugged their shoulders. They only suggestion they could offer was that the corrosion on the other nipples was causing the corrosion on the new nipples. Given the fact that there wasn't any wet or dry sealant remaining in the carbon rims, this seemed unsatisfying as an explanation.

    In addition to the frustration of having to deal with this issue on a rather expensive bike that has hardly been ridden and is only 1 1/2 years old, I was concerned that corrosion would continue and that the wheels that might fail. As I have replaced the nipples (now 20 of them), several have parted right at the cup. On visual inspection, some had appeared to be corroded only on the heads. Appearances were deceiving. The corrosion gets going down inside the threaded part of the nipple and, as it corrodes on the inside and the outside, the nipples are even weaker than they look.

    Having read more online, and having talk to a few friends who are bike mechanics and wheel builders, it appears that the corrosion of the aluminum nipples on Roval and Enve wheels is a well-known problem. My good friend who is a skilled wheel builder recommended that I replace the aluminum nipples every year. Based on what I was seeing in terms of the rate of corrosion, I would need to replace them every few months--and that is when using tubes in the tires. Some online sites suggest that the corrosion may be caused by a galvanic reaction between the dissimilar metals and the epoxy resins. At this point, I don't know what to think.

    On the Enve website, they indicate that they have seen so many of these problems that they are now using brass nipples on their wheels (despite the weight penalty), and they are recommending that corroded nipples on existing wheels be rebuilt with brass nipples. My recommendation is that those who have similar wheels take the tires and tape off to see if there is corrosion building up on the nipples. I'd hate for anyone to have a failure on a wheel at an inopportune moment--resulting in serious injury. I've decided to follow Enve's lead and replace all of the nipples on both wheels with brass. The small weight penalty is nothing to me if I am able to get peace of mind that the wheels won't fail due to nipple corrosion.

    The corrosion problems appear to be well known to Shimano. In fact, their warranty specifies that it will be void if any sealant is used other than Hutchinson's, which appears to be (relatively) ammonia free. Online discussions indicate that aluminum rims can be so weakened by corrosion that they can fail.

    If anyone out there has experienced similar corrosion on Roval wheels, please let me know. In particular, if anyone has had a wheel failure resulting in injury, let me know. My background is in law, and I am exploring the possibility of bringing this more firmly to the attention of Specialized warranty. The wheels are covered for against defect (and it not limited to the original owner), the tires the come on the bike new say 2-bliss ready, and the marketing materials tout the tubeless compatibility. So far, my experience in working with the Specialized dealers and Specialized warranty has not been a very satisfying experience.
    Hi JeffDown,
    let's see how people chime in with their own experiences. We do get complaints from time to time about nipple corrosion, and have been investigating this further to understand what is actually causing it. Without getting too long winded, we have not found a "silver bullet" as to one thing that causes this, such as sealant alone. Things like environmental factors, and other chemical reactions going on with all the parts could all be contributing. If we learn that the majority of Roval wheels are suffering from this, then we should consider switching to brass. The fact now though is that we and most other carbon wheel manufacturers are going after the lightest wheels possible for a given riding experience. To give up a significant amount of weight in brass nipples when not everyone (or the majority to our knowledge) would hold the wheels back. Just trying to give you our perspective.

    For your situation, I do understand that you're disappointed with the performance of the wheels. What you might consider doing is just building them with brass nipples as you state, rather than replacing alloys. Whatever is causing the corrosion does not seem to be going away. I hope you will understand that our warranty (which is fairly industry standard) is limited to the original owner of the bike/wheel. If you would like a copy, let me know and I'll get it for you.

  171. #571
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    Thanks Joe,
    This is awesome. I am moving ahead full steam with the rebuild now.
    Regards,
    Sean

  172. #572
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    I have an opportunity to purchase a set of "used" Roval Carbon wheels with 300 miles on them for $850. Have not seen them and not sure what to look for if I "Need" to look for anything. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Advice also. I believe they would be a direct mount for my Camber Carbon Pro since they came off a Epic World Class. Seller says they are in very good condition.
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)

  173. #573
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtjim57 View Post
    I have an opportunity to purchase a set of "used" Roval Carbon wheels with 300 miles on them for $850. Have not seen them and not sure what to look for if I "Need" to look for anything. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Advice also. I believe they would be a direct mount for my Camber Carbon Pro since they came off a Epic World Class. Seller says they are in very good condition.
    sgtjim57- I have no advice beyond what you'd typically look for in a used set of wheels. Things like dings in the rim, spokes that have been nicked from chain going off the low gear in the back, rounded spoke nipples, etc.

  174. #574
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    Thanks for the advice. Do you feel that this is a fair price for them if they are in excellent condition as the seller assures?
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)

  175. #575
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    Hello,

    Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels do use DT Prolock nipples. DT makes the Prolock nipples in both brass and aluminum. The Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels use the aluminum version, and I have two wheels that have corroded at the nipples. After replacing them with new aluminum nipples, the corrosion continued. As such, I'm switching to brass nipples in order to ensure the wheels are safe.

  176. #576
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    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for the response. I am disappointed, but mainly because the wheels are being used in the manner that is expected for this kind of bike, and there is something going one in terms of incompatibility between nipple, spoke, carbon rim, sealant. I live in Flagstaff, and the bike was used in Phoenix (lightly) by the previous owner. As such, it can't be chalked up to road salt, or ocean spray, or too much time out in moisture. I don't know what is causing the problem, but I would think Specialized and Roval would take the problem more seriously. At the very least, owners should be more actively warned in the materials provided with the bike and online sources--or they might be in for a nasty surprise if a wheel fails at an inopportune moment. That way, owners like me (who are not in the industry) would have reason to check regularly when changing tires and might see the problem mounting before such a failure occurs.

    I do understand the reasons that manufacturers try to limit coverage provided under a warranty. Having said that, if the wheels are manufactured in a manner that turns out to be unsafe, then no warranty is going to limit Roval's and Specialized's liability if someone is hurt. Car manufacturers, for instance, are liable if there is a problem in the design--even if the problem was not entirely predictable at the time the design was first made. You can say that, in this case, there is nothing wrong with the nipples, or with the spokes, or with the carbon rims, or with the sealants. Now that we know that there is some kind of issue when they are put together, the Specialized and Roval can no longer say that there isn't some problem of compatibility. Once the problem is known, companies have an obligation to do something about it. In addition to having to fix the problem by changing out the part (regardless of whether it is an original owner or not), they are on the hook if someone is injured or worse.

    As person with a legal background, I am surprised that bike and wheel manufacturers don't take those legal obligations more seriously. Those responsibilities have nothing to do with what is or isn't contained in an express warranty. My reason for making the post is to ensure that Roval and Specialized are aware that one more owner is reporting the problem. As such, the company has been notified. Take that for what it is worth. --Jeff

  177. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtjim57 View Post
    Thanks for the advice. Do you feel that this is a fair price for them if they are in excellent condition as the seller assures?
    sgtjim57- I'm not totally clear on which wheelset you are talking about. Is this the Control 29 SL or Control 29 Carbon? both are carbon wheelsets that can come on Epic World Cup, just depends on which model.

  178. #578
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    Carbon roval trail SLs 29er
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)

  179. #579
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtjim57 View Post
    Carbon roval trail SLs 29er
    that wheelset retails for $1700, so if it is in good condition, that seems reasonable to me.

  180. #580
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    Thanks. I have been reading about the corrosion issue with the nipples wondering if this could be an issue with these and will look for it when I go see them.
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)

  181. #581
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    From what I've read and heard from wheel builders, corrosion caused by ammonium in a tubeless sealant can occur on any set of aluminum nipples or aluminum rims. Others are reporting that corrosion may be due to an interaction between epoxy resins in carbon rims, together with the dissimilar metals in the spokes (stainless) and aluminum nipples.

    In my case, nipples on my 1 1/2 year old pair of Roval Control SL wheels were so corroded that two separated right at the cup on rides, and more popped when I tried to replace them. Many were so corroded that there wasn't anything left to the top of the nipple other than a bit of cup barely holding on. It is easy to see if you pull the tape off a rim and look at the heads with a flashlight. Hope that helps.

  182. #582
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    Jeff, you are helping in removing my enthusiasm for purchasing these wheels, that's for sure. May just wait and get some Stan's instead.
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)

  183. #583
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    If the Stans are built with aluminum nipples, then they may have corrosion problems if you use a sealant with ammonium. It appears that some nipples (and aluminum rims) may be anodized harder, and that they may be more resistant to corrosion.

    Having said that, some have suggested that the corrosion of aluminum nipples on carbon wheels may be due to the the combination of aluminum nipple, stainless spoke and resin in the carbon rim. I don't know what is causing it on my Roval Carbon SL wheels, but I wish the manufacturer would take the problem more seriously (as Enve appears to have done).

  184. #584
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    On my roval control sl off a 2010 stumpy i fear the rear hub is kaput. It makes a slight grinding noise every revolution and under higher torque it skips now. The shop replaced the bearings once and all was well for a year. What do you think? thanks

  185. #585
    Workin for the weekend!
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    A buddy of mine runs a set of Roval Carbon Control SL's, we've noticed that a number of spokes are failing, most of them at the nipple. These seem very weak and I'm surprised that a $2K wheel set has theses kinds of problems... Is it normal? Is there a remedy or a preventative idea that can be done to save future nipple failures?

    Is Specialized offering warranty on these failures? If they were my wheels, I have them relaced with Brass nipples and take the weight penalty...
    Todd :thumbsup:

  186. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    On my roval control sl off a 2010 stumpy i fear the rear hub is kaput. It makes a slight grinding noise every revolution and under higher torque it skips now. The shop replaced the bearings once and all was well for a year. What do you think? thanks
    ok skip that. I changed out the rings cassette and chain and fiddled with the adjusters and it is back to its excellent self

  187. #587
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    Roval Joe,

    I am torn between the Roval Control 29 Carbon and the Roval Traverse 29 alloy. My concern is about the durability of the Roval Control 29 Carbon at my weight. I am 220 and losing weight. Are you confident that the Roval Control 29 Carbon can with stand xc style jumps and blasting through rock gardens?

    I have a had my stumpy evo ht 29 aluminum for two years. I have had a few minor scratches on the stock wheels and a few spokes come lose. Other than that I have never bent the stock traverse rims.

    I run the 2.3 Purgatory 2bliss Control up front and the 2.1 Ground Control 2bliss in the back.

    Thanks in advance for your insight on helping me make a decision.
    2014 Giant Anthem X Advanced 1 29er
    2012 Specialized Stumpjumper EVO HT 29er

  188. #588
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    Will these take a 2.4 tire
    Size 26" x 24.4mm
    Color White
    Hole # 32
    Brakes Disc
    Weight 440g
    ISO 559 x 19
    ERD 540
    Tape Width 25mm
    Im still real new and tring to build my first set of wheels
    IT'S NOT A HOBBIE ITS AN OBSESSION

  189. #589
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    Decided Saturday morning that purchasing used Roval Carbons was not the best idea for me. I will wait and have my local shop build me a set of new wheels when I need them, not when I want them.
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)

  190. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by Edcft View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I am torn between the Roval Control 29 Carbon and the Roval Traverse 29 alloy. My concern is about the durability of the Roval Control 29 Carbon at my weight. I am 220 and losing weight. Are you confident that the Roval Control 29 Carbon can with stand xc style jumps and blasting through rock gardens?

    I have a had my stumpy evo ht 29 aluminum for two years. I have had a few minor scratches on the stock wheels and a few spokes come lose. Other than that I have never bent the stock traverse rims.

    I run the 2.3 Purgatory 2bliss Control up front and the 2.1 Ground Control 2bliss in the back.

    Thanks in advance for your insight on helping me make a decision.
    Edcft- based upon the info you gave me, I think you'd be fine with Control 29 Carbon's. The fact that you haven't dented your current alloy rims, you don't find any issues with flexiness, etc, makes me believe that the Control 29's will be fine for you. As I've mentioned before to other folks on this thread, we have a wheel demo program at participating dealers. I'd encourage you to try the wheels out before purchasing! you can find a dealer at the link below, just click on the "Roval wheel demo center" filter.
    Specialized Bicycle Components

  191. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamesd1980 View Post
    Will these take a 2.4 tire
    Size 26" x 24.4mm
    Color White
    Hole # 32
    Brakes Disc
    Weight 440g
    ISO 559 x 19
    ERD 540
    Tape Width 25mm
    Im still real new and tring to build my first set of wheels
    jamesd1980- if I understand correctly, the inner width of the rim is 19mm? if so, a 2.4 tire will fit on this rim, but the rim itself is pretty narrow. If you are going to use that wide of a tire, I'd suggest something wider, maybe 22mm or more.

  192. #592
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    Gents,

    I have had the same problem on a few wheels that I built with alloy nipples. I used the LB carbon rims and gorilla tape. I don't wash my bike a lot, but I noticed the water getting in the spoke holes and collecting behind the nipple. I've always only used "Simple Green" to clean my bikes, but have been informed that the regular version has ingredients that are corrosive to aluminum. There is supposedly another version that is not, but I stopped using it all together.
    MTBP
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  193. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB Pilot View Post
    Gents,

    I have had the same problem on a few wheels that I built with alloy nipples. I used the LB carbon rims and gorilla tape. I don't wash my bike a lot, but I noticed the water getting in the spoke holes and collecting behind the nipple. I've always only used "Simple Green" to clean my bikes, but have been informed that the regular version has ingredients that are corrosive to aluminum. There is supposedly another version that is not, but I stopped using it all together.
    MTB Pilot- thanks for taking the time to provide feedback! Mind if I ask what brand/model of spoke nipple you used?

  194. #594
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    Roval Joe & others:

    I've got one year old Roval Control SL 29 2012 wheels and one black spoke broke from the rear wheel non-drive side. According to the spoke info chart which Roval Joe has posted earlier the correct replacement spoke would be DT Revolution 14g 302 mm. The specs don't mention the spokes beeing straight pull versions but as far as I understand they are indeed straight pull.

    The question is if the replacement spokes can be found through DT Swiss dealers since I can't find straight pull version of the Revolution on DT Swiss website or from their spoke spec document? The DT lists non-sp version only for the Revolution and sp versions for Champion, Aerolite, Competition and Aero Comp.
    Pertti
    Lahti, Finland
    MC Kramppi

  195. #595
    74 & 29 pilot
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    MTB Pilot- thanks for taking the time to provide feedback! Mind if I ask what brand/model of spoke nipple you used?
    My pleasure. DT comp spokes and their alloy nipples.
    MTBP
    "GIVE ME LIBERTY OR GIVE ME DEATH!"
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  196. #596
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    Roval Joe, I bought a set of (new)take-off carbon roval control 142+ without paying close attention to what the 142+ meant. I've known about spec's roval whls since they came out, but haven't been paying much attention lately, therefore didn't realize that the 142+ was something totally different. I couldn't pass up the deal on these wheels...

    Anyway, is there a way to make the rear hub fit a regular 142mm frame?!?!?

    Thanks!
    MTBP
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  197. #597
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    Dear Joe,

    I've got a Roval Specialized front wheel, tubeless, with the 9mm through axle. Is there any way to convert this to a 15mm axle?

    Best, Chris

  198. #598
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    65mtn- sorry for my lag in response- I was out for the holidays. you cannot convert a 142+ hub to standard 142mm.
    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    But in many, many cases it will work in a 142 frame. Width dimension is the same for both, the cassette on the + just sits ~2mm to the outboard side. Many bikes are fine with this, and most of those that are not WILL work if you simply sand/machine about 1 mm off of the cassette lockring.

    But make sure the chain doesn't hit the seatstay. That is an issue that really cannot easily be remedied.
    Well, I guess I found my answer... maybe?! I will see what the fit is like when they arrive, I have 3 bikes I could use them on, maybe they'll work somewhere. Is the brake rotor side where I'm going to have an issue? Thanks!
    MTBP
    "GIVE ME LIBERTY OR GIVE ME DEATH!"
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  199. #599
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    The other thing is you can add a 1mm spacer under the drive side endcap. Frames will flex to accommodate the extra width and will set the cassette another mm inboard to make for some added clearance.

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    Stop this Derailleur Madness!!.... De-Rail-er

    See what the God of bikes has to say about it..

  200. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by natrat View Post
    On my roval control sl off a 2010 stumpy i fear the rear hub is kaput. It makes a slight grinding noise every revolution and under higher torque it skips now. The shop replaced the bearings once and all was well for a year. What do you think? thanks
    Natrat- sorry for my delayed response. I used to get an email every time there was a new post, but for some reason I'm not getting them anymore. To answer your question, if the hub is making grinding noises and skipping, it could be that you need to replace the freehub body, or internals, just depends on which hub you have. What model of SJ did you have?

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