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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by mteitsch View Post
    Hi Joe,
    I got in touch with the shop and they happen to have a few 302mm spokes on the shelf that they are sending. BTW the shop did send me some 304mm spokes previously,but they are too long for the non drive side rear wheel. have you heard of this in your travels?. I'm going to try to substitute the 302 (it's only 2mm shorter .080") but I hope it works.
    Thanks again for your assistance.
    Mike T
    I have not heard of this, did you by chance measure them? Because of the dish, the non drive will have to be longer than the drive side, so if your 302mm spokes worked, i'm surprised the 304's are too long?

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by austinTRON View Post
    Hey joe, I have a set of DT 240S hubs. The front hub is 100mm QR hub currently. I really really want to run RWS skewer as I have had some terrible trouble with regular QR skewers, even internal cam ones. Can I use Roval end caps to convert it? That's all I'd need right? If so, can you list the part # for the skewer and end caps?
    AustinTRON- sorry, this won't work. Roval front end caps are different. Have you looked at seeing if DT makes the end caps you need? I'm not sure off the top of my head

  3. #203
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    2014_spoke lookup chart.pdf

    Hi everyone,
    I've had a fair amount of spoke length questions, so I'm posting this easy look up chart in hopes this makes it easier for everyone.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    AustinTRON- sorry, this won't work. Roval front end caps are different. Have you looked at seeing if DT makes the end caps you need? I'm not sure off the top of my head
    Dang, ok. Neither J&B or QBP have the end caps available. The wheel builder at our shop just finished my wheels today and we looked all over the place for the end caps, There was tons of options for 135 > 142mm converts, XX1 freehubs, 15mm > 20mm converters, star ratchet upgrades, etc. etc. etc. Couldn't find RWS end caps any where. :/
    Nature never said one thing, and wisdom another...

  5. #205
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    Quick question regarding the availability of the 2014 Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels. I noticed that that wheel is not referenced in the PDF posted a few pages back with regards to spoke specs.

    Is there any sort of expected release date (for purchase)?

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Quick question regarding the availability of the 2014 Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels. I noticed that that wheel is not referenced in the PDF posted a few pages back with regards to spoke specs.

    Is there any sort of expected release date (for purchase)?
    Masterhoss56- the Control Trail SL wheels did not make it in the line for '14. we're only making the 29" version now.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Masterhoss56- the Control Trail SL wheels did not make it in the line for '14. we're only making the 29" version now.
    Thanks for the reply. I was actually wondering about the availability of the 29" 2014 Control Trail SL wheels. Specialized 2014 Wheels, Tires, Shoes And Helmets - BikeRadar

    I'd like to order these and get them on my bike as soon as they are available.

    EDIT: Nevermind. I completely overlooked what you and the article I linked stated. Thanks for the info.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Thanks for the reply. I was actually wondering about the availability of the 29" 2014 Control Trail SL wheels. Specialized 2014 Wheels, Tires, Shoes And Helmets - BikeRadar

    I'd like to order these and get them on my bike as soon as they are available.
    ah, ok. Those are the Control SL 29, not Trail. These are starting to produce now and should be available to dealers end of September/beginning of October.

  9. #209
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    Hey Roval Joe. One last question. At 170lbs and doing trail rides, should I wait for the Control SL or would the Control Trail SL be the way to go for every day rides? (are the Control Trail SL wheels more durable than the Control SL?)

    No racing, and no all mountain riding.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by masterhoss56 View Post
    Hey Roval Joe. One last question. At 170lbs and doing trail rides, should I wait for the Control SL or would the Control Trail SL be the way to go for every day rides? (are the Control Trail SL wheels more durable than the Control SL?)

    No racing, and no all mountain riding.
    Masterhoss, because of the no bead hook design, the new Control SL rim is more resistant to rock strikes. The overall wheel is lighter than the Trial version though, and a bit less stiff. I've been riding trail style rides on my set without any problem (mounted on a Camber) and weigh 160lb. If you're not a wheel destroying kind of rider, this wheelset would probably be fine for the kind of riding you're doing.

  11. #211
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    New question here. Which wheels?

    Hi Joe,

    I'm hoping you can give me some advice on the best wheels for me. I trail ride, nothing extreme at the moment i.e. no drops or jumps and taking everything gently as I've only been riding for a few months and I'm still learning! I will do more adventurous stuff eventually, but not for a while yet. I'll be trading up to a 29er next week and I want the lightest/stiffest wheels I can safely put on it, and I would probably have gone for the Control 29 Carbons but I hesitated because of the weight limit. I'm currently just under the 108kg but would be a bit heavier with camelback etc. I'm losing weight steadily (5kg in the last 2 months) so if that continues in a month or two I'd be well under the weight limit but I don't really want to wait that long (I know, I'm impatient!).

    So would I be taking a risk in going for one of the carbon wheelsets at my current weight? Either way, which wheel (carbon or alloy) do you think would be best for me?

    I need 15mm front hub, 12x142mm rear, and 6-hole rotor mounts, so I'd need to know whether all of that comes with whatever you recommend or would I need any additional adapters.

    Also, if you recommend one of the Traverse wheelsets, I've seen comments that they are not officially for sale here in the UK - is that right? If so I assume you wouldn't advise buying a grey import.

    Sorry this is such a long question, but many thanks for your help!

    Pete

  12. #212
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    Roval Joe, I have a 2008 S-Works FSR Stumpy, but have the wheels off a 2010 S-Works Stumpy FSR. I weigh 225, and ride Trail and AM. They are staying pretty true and I have 850 miles on them. I run a Purgatory 2.3" control tire on the front, a Captain 2.1 Control on the rear. Are these rims wide enough for a 2.3" or am I pushing my luck? If I decide to upgrade to a new wheel at some point, I do not want to add weight. I like the feel of these Control SL rims, but perhaps want something a little stronger, a little wider, without adding weight. Any suggestions? 26" BTW.

    Thanks...

  13. #213
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    Roval Joe,

    I have a set of Roval Traverse EL 26" wheels. Grey and black, red nipples, red hub adapters, and DT 240 rear hub internals. They look just like the ones Pinkbike reviewed here: Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    I am confused as to if they are 2010, or 2011? I broke a rear spoke, do I use the length/part number from your spoke lookup chart for the 2011 Traverse EL?

    Another quick question since I have not removed the tubeless tape yet, are the nipples standard, or hex-head DT pro lock? And will the above spoke part numbers come with a nipple?

    Thanks,
    Steve

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by corsair77 View Post
    Hi Joe,

    I'm hoping you can give me some advice on the best wheels for me. I trail ride, nothing extreme at the moment i.e. no drops or jumps and taking everything gently as I've only been riding for a few months and I'm still learning! I will do more adventurous stuff eventually, but not for a while yet. I'll be trading up to a 29er next week and I want the lightest/stiffest wheels I can safely put on it, and I would probably have gone for the Control 29 Carbons but I hesitated because of the weight limit. I'm currently just under the 108kg but would be a bit heavier with camelback etc. I'm losing weight steadily (5kg in the last 2 months) so if that continues in a month or two I'd be well under the weight limit but I don't really want to wait that long (I know, I'm impatient!).

    So would I be taking a risk in going for one of the carbon wheelsets at my current weight? Either way, which wheel (carbon or alloy) do you think would be best for me?

    I need 15mm front hub, 12x142mm rear, and 6-hole rotor mounts, so I'd need to know whether all of that comes with whatever you recommend or would I need any additional adapters.

    Also, if you recommend one of the Traverse wheelsets, I've seen comments that they are not officially for sale here in the UK - is that right? If so I assume you wouldn't advise buying a grey import.

    Sorry this is such a long question, but many thanks for your help!

    Pete
    Hey Pete,
    thanks for the inquiry! You could go with the Traverse wheels, but I actually think you'll be served better by the Control Carbon wheels. These have proven to be an extremely robust set of wheels for trail riding, and you shouldn't have trouble with the weight limit. They do come with all the end caps needed to set up to your needs, and I think the UK is bringing these in. Hopefully you should be good to go!

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Roval Joe, I have a 2008 S-Works FSR Stumpy, but have the wheels off a 2010 S-Works Stumpy FSR. I weigh 225, and ride Trail and AM. They are staying pretty true and I have 850 miles on them. I run a Purgatory 2.3" control tire on the front, a Captain 2.1 Control on the rear. Are these rims wide enough for a 2.3" or am I pushing my luck? If I decide to upgrade to a new wheel at some point, I do not want to add weight. I like the feel of these Control SL rims, but perhaps want something a little stronger, a little wider, without adding weight. Any suggestions? 26" BTW.

    Thanks...
    trmn8er- if you like the feel, then the 2.3 tire is fine to run. The rim is a bit on the narrow side (19mm inner width), but if you are not experiencing tire squirm then I'd continue to run it. That wheelset is pretty darn light, so upgrading in the future to something wider w/out gaining weight will be tough. The only other 26" carbon wheel we offer now is Traverse SL, which are 22mm wide, but they have more spokes, beefier spokes, and bigger front hub.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by deoreo View Post
    Roval Joe,

    I have a set of Roval Traverse EL 26" wheels. Grey and black, red nipples, red hub adapters, and DT 240 rear hub internals. They look just like the ones Pinkbike reviewed here: Roval Traverse EL Wheelset - Preview - Pinkbike

    I am confused as to if they are 2010, or 2011? I broke a rear spoke, do I use the length/part number from your spoke lookup chart for the 2011 Traverse EL?

    Another quick question since I have not removed the tubeless tape yet, are the nipples standard, or hex-head DT pro lock? And will the above spoke part numbers come with a nipple?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    Hey Steve,
    you can use the spoke PN's from the '11 wheel for yours as well. they should be the same. the spokes are DT hex head prolock, and they do not come with the spoke. PN for the nipple in red is S2027009.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Pete, ... I actually think you'll be served better by the Control Carbon wheels. ... Hopefully you should be good to go!
    That's great, exactly what I was hoping to hear of course! I can't see any dealers actually showing stock of the Control Carbons here in the UK but there are several who show them for sale with delivery times of a few days so I assume they'll be coming from the importer's warehouse somewhere in the UK. I guess I'm about to find out as my order is now in!

    Thanks again for your help Joe, it's always nice to see someone take the time to talk to customers.

  18. #218
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    roval joe, can you tell me the rim ERD on the fusee slx rd wheels, from 2012.

    thanks

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by peabody View Post
    roval joe, can you tell me the rim ERD on the fusee slx rd wheels, from 2012.

    thanks
    Hi Peabody- unfortunately, we don't publish our dimensions for individual wheel components, as they are built/sold as a system, and we don't encourage building them with other components. You can of course take a measurement yourself, or have a shop measure it for you.

  20. #220
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    Roval Joe,

    For some reason I cannot open the spoke lookup chart you linked above.
    Could you tell me the part number and length for a 2011 Traverse EL rear non-drive side spoke?

    Thanks again!
    Steve

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey everyone, Roval Joe here.

    I manage the Roval MTB wheel program (maybe the coolest wheels you have never heard of) and I am super excited to talk wheels, rims, spokes, spacing, carbon, really anything, with you guys. Let me know if you have some questions, feedback, or ideas. Thanks!
    Hey Joe, I started a search and I'm sure answer's somewhere in these 9 pages....but can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?

    Thanks in advance.
    Ripley V1 XC/Gravel Adventure rig
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    Salsa Timberjack

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?
    I'm no expert, but the product page says this so I'd assume so:
    "Compatible with SRAM XX1 11-Speed"

    Just got mine the other day - very nice set of wheels!

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by corsair77 View Post
    "Compatible with SRAM XX1 11-Speed"

    Just got mine the other day - very nice set of wheels!
    D'oH! Thank you sir. I did not see the tree for the forest.
    Ripley V1 XC/Gravel Adventure rig
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  24. #224
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    Hi Joe! A few quick questions for you. I have the opportunity to pick up some new, never ridden Roval Control SL 29 wheels. My first question is if they will fit my 13" Stumpy FSR Comp? From what I can tell, there are different end caps that come with wheel set that adapt them to 142+, does that sound right? Next, if they will in fact fit, what are your thoughts on these vs the $1200 Control Carbon's? My main question between the two is if my 211lb body (+plus a little) gear will be too much for the SL with the beads vs the $1200 without the bead. My riding is mostly XC/Trail/All Mountain, but no drops really to speak of, but I do have some pretty chunky local trails here and there. I should add, I can pick up the SL's a bit cheaper then the Control Carbons new. Thoughts? I have never had anything but stock wheel sets, so I am excited either way!

    Cheers!

  25. #225
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    211# riding a 13" frame! My god man what's your inseam??

    I'd say you're more tuned for the Control Carbons.
    Ripley V1 XC/Gravel Adventure rig
    NORCO Fluid FS
    Salsa Timberjack

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    211# riding a 13" frame! My god man what's your inseam??

    I'd say you're more tuned for the Control Carbons.
    LOL, yeah ..... I meant a 2013 Stumpy

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMac47 View Post
    Hey Joe, I started a search and I'm sure answer's somewhere in these 9 pages....but can you confirm the Control Carbon 29r (non SL) wheel hubs are setup for XX1?

    Thanks in advance.
    JMac- all of our wheels are compatible with XX1, you just need to order the freehub body. super easy to do. Wheels come set up with the standard 9/10spd freehub body.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by montananate View Post
    Hi Joe! A few quick questions for you. I have the opportunity to pick up some new, never ridden Roval Control SL 29 wheels. My first question is if they will fit my 13" Stumpy FSR Comp? From what I can tell, there are different end caps that come with wheel set that adapt them to 142+, does that sound right? Next, if they will in fact fit, what are your thoughts on these vs the $1200 Control Carbon's? My main question between the two is if my 211lb body (+plus a little) gear will be too much for the SL with the beads vs the $1200 without the bead. My riding is mostly XC/Trail/All Mountain, but no drops really to speak of, but I do have some pretty chunky local trails here and there. I should add, I can pick up the SL's a bit cheaper then the Control Carbons new. Thoughts? I have never had anything but stock wheel sets, so I am excited either way!

    Cheers!
    Montananate- first off, yeah, the wheels in question will fit on your bike, just need to put the 142mm end caps that came with them on. As far as which wheel might be better- the SL's will be lighter of course, but I'd recommend the Control carbon wheels since the rims will be more durable for you. they are stiffer than the SL's, and at your body weight, this is something you'd probably notice.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Montananate- first off, yeah, the wheels in question will fit on your bike, just need to put the 142mm end caps that came with them on. As far as which wheel might be better- the SL's will be lighter of course, but I'd recommend the Control carbon wheels since the rims will be more durable for you. they are stiffer than the SL's, and at your body weight, this is something you'd probably notice.
    Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?

  30. #230
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    [QUOTE=montananate;10607743]Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?[/QUOTE

    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.

  31. #231
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    [QUOTE=Roval Joe;10607751]
    Quote Originally Posted by montananate View Post
    Hmmmm, I was thinking that might be the case, its a bummer, because I can actually purchase these SL's for less then I can get the Control Carbon's ..... but as you said, if they are going to be more durable .......

    Quick question about the 142mm, why is Specialized offering both a 142+ version and a version that can be adapted to 142mm? Why not just the adaptable ones?[/QUOTE

    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.
    Ahhh, ok, thank you for that info. I have been a die-hard Spec fan, but if I invest this kind of money into a wheelset, I want to make sure they are going to be compatible with other frames down the road, should I choose to switch.

    Cheers!

  32. #232
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    Hello ROVAL JOE really scared about the new bead hookless ROVAL 2014 WHEELSET!!
    can u explain us more this new system it will fail? can we use it with low pressure? can the tire unbead or blow off the wheel in corners?? can we use it with common tires or 2bliss tires??

    I will buy the 2014 SW stumpy with the new control sl wheelset!! this have this new system and 15mm front and 142 rear!! CAN I convert the rear hub to standard 135 QR for my sister's fate comp bike??

    here is the link for the new tread for the new ROVAL hookless system check it out
    http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/...re-836810.html

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    142+ is actually a different hubshell that pushes the cassette and drive side spoke flange out 2mm, which gains us an extra 10% in wheel stiffness. in doing so though, this makes the wheels only compatible with our frame design. So, we had to offer wheels that were standard 142mm additionally.

    Crap.

    So the Roval Traverse 29 142+ wheelset I just bought off Fleabay will not fit on the rear of my Yeti Sb95?

    Or could I just spread the dropouts an extra 1mm on each side? (It's then actually a 144, right Joe?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  34. #234
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    I think you'd have to switch to the standard DT Swiss end caps vs the standard specialized ones which should be 2mm shorter on the drive side. That'd make it a 144mm wheel but it's likely that the the wheel will be offset 2mm towards the non drive side stays....

    I did the same thing with a 142+ and turned it into a 135x10 which is really 137x10 now. I plan to rebuild the wheel with a new rim and spokes at some point and will dish it appropriately at that time.

  35. #235
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    Hey andresco, browse through the pages, there is some great info there. Plus, Joe has answered all your questions already.

    Cheers!
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by andresco50 View Post
    Hello ROVAL JOE really scared about the new bead hookless ROVAL 2014 WHEELSET!!
    can u explain us more this new system it will fail? can we use it with low pressure? can the tire unbead or blow off the wheel in corners?? can we use it with common tires or 2bliss tires??

    I will buy the 2014 SW stumpy with the new control sl wheelset!! this have this new system and 15mm front and 142 rear!! CAN I convert the rear hub to standard 135 QR for my sister's fate comp bike??

    here is the link for the new tread for the new ROVAL hookless system check it out
    http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/...re-836810.html
    Hey Andresco- have a look in the first couple pages of this thread for an explanation of why the rim w/out bead hooks keeps the tire on. For a little history, we introduced this design for model year 2013, so the rims have been in the market (thousands of them), without any problems in keeping tires on. You'll notice all the comments from magazine reviews and comments from actual owners here on MTBR are all positive, reporting no issues with keeping tires on. You'll also notice that the only people commenting on the "theoretical problems with tire compatibility" with these rims are people who A)do not own a set, and B)have never tried them. We have tested many manufacturers tires on these rims with no problems. You will be able to run the same tire pressure with these rims as your standard rims.

    regarding the 142+ system (this is what comes with wheels sold on our bikes), this cannot be changed to 135mm QR. If you purchase an aftermarket set of wheels, you can get them in 135mm which can be converted to standard 142 (different from 142+).

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    Crap.

    So the Roval Traverse 29 142+ wheelset I just bought off Fleabay will not fit on the rear of my Yeti Sb95?

    Or could I just spread the dropouts an extra 1mm on each side? (It's then actually a 144, right Joe?
    bpnic- I'm not sure that even if you spread the dropouts if it will work or not. I think the cassette will probably rub on the frame since the cassette is 2mm further outboard. Let me know what you find out.

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    bpnic- I'm not sure that even if you spread the dropouts if it will work or not. I think the cassette will probably rub on the frame since the cassette is 2mm further outboard. Let me know what you find out.

    The 142+ hub of my Traverse 29" rear hub measured the same side to side with calipers (142mm), so the difference must just be the 2mm offset like dberndt mentioned earlier in post #234.

    Chainline, I'm hoping, is all that will be affected.

    Maybe not though...Specialized would have to modify each their frames to accept the 2 degree offset if that particular bike was sold with 142+.
    Seems like a pita, even for the big S.

    Thoughts?
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic View Post
    The 142+ hub of my Traverse 29" rear hub measured the same side to side with calipers (142mm), so the difference must just be the 2mm offset like dberndt mentioned earlier in post #234.

    Chainline, I'm hoping, is all that will be affected.

    Maybe not though...Specialized would have to modify each their frames to accept the 2 degree offset if that particular bike was sold with 142+.
    Seems like a pita, even for the big S.

    Thoughts?
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    Gotcha. I'll mount it up and post back with results. Thanks Joe-
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  41. #241
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    Joe -- dropped you a note about end cap availability. Trying to get a replacement S125900010 (15mm TA end caps) and the LBS says Specialized says they're not available?

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaceharrier View Post
    Joe -- dropped you a note about end cap availability. Trying to get a replacement S125900010 (15mm TA end caps) and the LBS says Specialized says they're not available?

    I've been waiting two weeks for 15mm caps to become available. I was told they are back in stock @ Spesh, and I'll see mine in a week (Utah to Ny)
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    Any chance you wanna share the math on how this 2mm shift that specialized has equates to 10% stiffness increase? Tests that are publicly available to see? This sounds like a much better solution to the plain 142.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    Any chance you wanna share the math on how this 2mm shift that specialized has equates to 10% stiffness increase? Tests that are publicly available to see? This sounds like a much better solution to the plain 142.
    006_007- I won't go into the math of it, but to explain how it works, first, the hubshell is different in that the drive side flange is pushed outward as far as possible (along with the cassette due to clearance issues). Pushing the flanges further apart is what adds stiffness to the wheel. Imagine a traffic cone (triangle) that has a narrow base. If you increase the size of the base (pushing flanges apart), it gets harder to tip over. Same with a wheel- when you have a larger base, the torsional stiffness (side to side) increases significantly. When we first did 142mm rear wheels in Roval, we looked at the current designs at the time and realized that nobody was actually using the extra space (increase from 135mm) to gain wheel stiffness. So you had all these wheels being made with the similar stiffness as 135mm wheels. You were gaining some stiffness from the 142mm axle, but also leaving some stiffness on the table by not having the flanges pushed out. So that was the whole reason behind doing it.

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    006_007- I won't go into the math of it, but to explain how it works, first, the hubshell is different in that the drive side flange is pushed outward as far as possible (along with the cassette due to clearance issues). Pushing the flanges further apart is what adds stiffness to the wheel. Imagine a traffic cone (triangle) that has a narrow base. If you increase the size of the base (pushing flanges apart), it gets harder to tip over. Same with a wheel- when you have a larger base, the torsional stiffness (side to side) increases significantly. When we first did 142mm rear wheels in Roval, we looked at the current designs at the time and realized that nobody was actually using the extra space (increase from 135mm) to gain wheel stiffness. So you had all these wheels being made with the similar stiffness as 135mm wheels. You were gaining some stiffness from the 142mm axle, but also leaving some stiffness on the table by not having the flanges pushed out. So that was the whole reason behind doing it.
    So your claimed 10% increase is comparing it to a 135 or to a standard 142? And are we talking lateral stiffness here?

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    So your claimed 10% increase is comparing it to a 135 or to a standard 142? And are we talking lateral stiffness here?
    Both actually. A lot of wheels (our own included) are compatible with 135 and standard 142, it's the same hub with different end caps. The 10% stiffness is when compared to the 135/142 wheel. If by lateral, you mean side to side, then yes.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Both actually. A lot of wheels (our own included) are compatible with 135 and standard 142, it's the same hub with different end caps. The 10% stiffness is when compared to the 135/142 wheel. If by lateral, you mean side to side, then yes.
    So if I take one of your 142 wheels, put a sideways load on it of say 1000LBS* and that will make it deflect 10mm*, and then put the same load on the roval 142+ wheel, it will only deflect 9mm* ?



    *numerical values are just an example - I have no idea how much lateral load needs to deflect any wheel 10mm.

    Is that much extra stiffness really needed? A lot of frames have less then 10mm of clearance to the sides of tires and are not getting contact under deflection. How much is really needed.

    Are you also increasing the height of the flanges? Or am I incorrect that shorter spokes/taller flanges would give similar effects?

    Sorry for all the questions - These are an interesting wheelset - its not often I get to bounce ideas off someone in the know.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    yeah, our frames are different than standard 142 systems. They will accept both standard 142 as well as 142+, that's why I'm thinking the cassette will hit your frame. We sell our bikes with the 142+ system as it adds an additional 10% stiffness to the wheel over the standard 135/142 system.
    I've had an S-Works Epic 29'er 2013 with Roval SL 142+ wheels. After selling the frame, I tried to insert them into my Merida Big Nine Team Issue frame - fits perfect, but ... when the chain is on my 11T, it rubs against the upper chain stays. Sold the 142+ wheels and got the 135's converted to 142mm - it's more future proof in case you like to try another (brand of) frame.

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    Roval questions?

    Hey Joe, a question on the 2014 lineup:
    I understand that the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 wheels now also get the hookless rims. Are those now the same as the ones on the Roval Control Carbons?
    Which 2014 wheels would you recommend for XC and trail riding?
    My weight is 75 kg...

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    So if I take one of your 142 wheels, put a sideways load on it of say 1000LBS* and that will make it deflect 10mm*, and then put the same load on the roval 142+ wheel, it will only deflect 9mm* ?



    *numerical values are just an example - I have no idea how much lateral load needs to deflect any wheel 10mm.

    Is that much extra stiffness really needed? A lot of frames have less then 10mm of clearance to the sides of tires and are not getting contact under deflection. How much is really needed.

    Are you also increasing the height of the flanges? Or am I incorrect that shorter spokes/taller flanges would give similar effects?

    Sorry for all the questions - These are an interesting wheelset - its not often I get to bounce ideas off someone in the know.

    I like how you think....as an analyst, these are also the questions that I have to ask. It could also be ....instead of deflecting 1mm, it now deflects .9mm..

    Marketing is a hell of a thing. I represent a super strong material used for hurricane protection. When grommets are placed into the material they fail at 600 pounds. The building code requires they be tested to 400 pounds. I have two other clamp system. One fails at 15,000 pounds and the other at 16,500 pounds.....does that make the one with a higher fail rate better?. The answer is no, because at those pressures your house will not be standing.....
    Last edited by Atomik Carbon; 08-20-2013 at 07:45 AM. Reason: Spelling

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    So if I take one of your 142 wheels, put a sideways load on it of say 1000LBS* and that will make it deflect 10mm*, and then put the same load on the roval 142+ wheel, it will only deflect 9mm* ?



    *numerical values are just an example - I have no idea how much lateral load needs to deflect any wheel 10mm.

    Is that much extra stiffness really needed? A lot of frames have less then 10mm of clearance to the sides of tires and are not getting contact under deflection. How much is really needed.

    Are you also increasing the height of the flanges? Or am I incorrect that shorter spokes/taller flanges would give similar effects?

    Sorry for all the questions - These are an interesting wheelset - its not often I get to bounce ideas off someone in the know.
    006_007- you are on the right track with your example. "is that much extra stiffness really needed?" depends on who you ask really. For example, a lightweight rider, or a rider who does not ride super aggressively, the extra stiffness might not be of much value, since they are not pushing the wheel hard enough to feel it start to flex. Someone who weighs significantly more, or rides fairly aggressively though would probably argue that they want a stiffer wheelset.

    "are you also increasing the height of the flanges" no, these are the same. making larger flanges can change stiffness, but you have to start considering the weight trade off vs spoke length

    no problem on the questions, it's good to try and actually understand the product, rather than purchasing something based on hype.

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by madskatingcow View Post
    I've had an S-Works Epic 29'er 2013 with Roval SL 142+ wheels. After selling the frame, I tried to insert them into my Merida Big Nine Team Issue frame - fits perfect, but ... when the chain is on my 11T, it rubs against the upper chain stays. Sold the 142+ wheels and got the 135's converted to 142mm - it's more future proof in case you like to try another (brand of) frame.
    Madskatingco- thanks for the feedback on that. Good info for both myself and others on the forum!

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by YaMon View Post
    I like how you think....as an analyst, these are also the questions that I have to ask. It could also be ....instead of deflecting 1mm, it now deflects .9mm..

    Marketing is a hell of a thing. I represent a super strong material used for hurricane protection. When grommets are placed into the material they fail at 600 pounds. The building code requires they be tested to 400 pounds. I have two other clamp system. One fails at 15,000 pounds and the other at 16,500 pounds.....does that make the one with a higher fail rate better?. The answer is no, because at those pressures your house will not be standing.....
    Great Point YaMon. In some cases it's worthless to offer something that performs well above any real life conditions it would ever see. In the case of 142+, as I mentioned to 006_007, we feel some riders appreciate this stiffness, so we do sell it. You'll notice there is not a weight penalty for it, and no cost premium for it also. It's actually a big pain for us to have both 135/142+ wheel SKU's (the wheel line basically doubles), and if were only about selling product, we'd get rid of 142+ tomorrow.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Hey Joe, a question on the 2014 lineup:
    I understand that the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 wheels now also get the hookless rims. Are those now the same as the ones on the Roval Control Carbons?
    Which 2014 wheels would you recommend for XC and trail riding?
    My weight is 75 kg...
    Hey Bart- The rim on the new Control SL's is similar to the Control Carbon in that it has no bead hooks, however, the outer rim dimensions are different (if you hold the two side to side, they look very different). Inner width is 22mm for the new Control SL, same as Control Carbon. which wheels would I recommend? for your weight, if you are doing lighter XC trail riding, you'll be fine with them. The rim is more resistant to rock strikes/impacts than in the past, so you should be fine.

  55. #255
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Bart- The rim on the new Control SL's is similar to the Control Carbon in that it has no bead hooks, however, the outer rim dimensions are different (if you hold the two side to side, they look very different). Inner width is 22mm for the new Control SL, same as Control Carbon. which wheels would I recommend? for your weight, if you are doing lighter XC trail riding, you'll be fine with them. The rim is more resistant to rock strikes/impacts than in the past, so you should be fine.
    Hey Joe, thanks for that quick reply!
    Do I understand your answer correctly that the Control Carbon wheel is still more robust than the SL wheel?
    I do not need the lightest wheel and make compromises in stability. I rather have a few grams more on it, knowing I also can trust it on tours and trails in the European Alps for example...

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Hey Joe, thanks for that quick reply!
    Do I understand your answer correctly that the Control Carbon wheel is still more robust than the SL wheel?
    I do not need the lightest wheel and make compromises in stability. I rather have a few grams more on it, knowing I also can trust it on tours and trails in the European Alps for example...
    Hey Bart- as far as impact resistance, the Control Carbon is more robust than the 2013 Control SL wheel. You won't have issues with either in stability, but the Control Carbon will be more durable.

  57. #257
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hey Bart- as far as impact resistance, the Control Carbon is more robust than the 2013 Control SL wheel. You won't have issues with either in stability, but the Control Carbon will be more durable.
    And what about the 2014 Control SL compared to the 2013 Control Carbon?

  58. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    And what about the 2014 Control SL compared to the 2013 Control Carbon?
    I think is more robust than the control sl 2013, the new hookless rim adds strength, is wider and stiffer...

  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    And what about the 2014 Control SL compared to the 2013 Control Carbon?
    Hey Bart, 2014 Control SL and 2013/14 Control Carbons will be a lot closer in impact resistance due to the fact both have the zero bead hook design. Control Carbon's will be a bit stiffer because of the wheel construction.

  60. #260
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    Hey Joe, didn't see if this has been asked/answered, but is it reasonable to think that the 2014 Control SL's will be a little less than the 2013's due to the hookless bead? Thanks man, for all your help in here.


    Side note for Specialized...I'd be absolutely stoked if you'd offer these wheels with Centerlock hubs...atleast as a limited option. Be the perfect wheel in my opinion. I see that you already offer some cross wheels with CL hubs.

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by jochribs View Post
    Hey Joe, didn't see if this has been asked/answered, but is it reasonable to think that the 2014 Control SL's will be a little less than the 2013's due to the hookless bead? Thanks man, for all your help in here.


    Side note for Specialized...I'd be absolutely stoked if you'd offer these wheels with Centerlock hubs...atleast as a limited option. Be the perfect wheel in my opinion. I see that you already offer some cross wheels with CL hubs.
    jochribs- I see where you're going with the pricing, but there's more to it than that. These rims use a higher end carbon material, so they are actually more expensive than Control Carbon rims (as well as lighter). As for centerlock, understand your request, and there are a couple reasons we don't do centerlock. One is the fact that it adds a lot more SKU's to an already large list of wheels, and the other is that centerlock is actually heavier as a system (hub/rotor/bolts) than the 6 bolt standard is. It also reduces your rotor options by quite a bit. Maybe not as big of a deal for CX/road bikes, but it is for mtn bikes.

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    jochribs- I see where you're going with the pricing, but there's more to it than that. These rims use a higher end carbon material, so they are actually more expensive than Control Carbon rims (as well as lighter). As for centerlock, understand your request, and there are a couple reasons we don't do centerlock. One is the fact that it adds a lot more SKU's to an already large list of wheels, and the other is that centerlock is actually heavier as a system (hub/rotor/bolts) than the 6 bolt standard is. It also reduces your rotor options by quite a bit. Maybe not as big of a deal for CX/road bikes, but it is for mtn bikes.
    Thanks for the response. I understand that the SL's will cost more than the Control Carbons...I am wondering if the hookless SL's will cost less than the previous year SL model (with the machined hook rim).

    On the Centerlock reasoning, I totally disagree with much of that reasoning, but respect it. Anyway, was just a vote meant as helpful feedback, as I am sure there are plenty of folks that would run them.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by jochribs View Post
    Thanks for the response. I understand that the SL's will cost more than the Control Carbons...I am wondering if the hookless SL's will cost less than the previous year SL model (with the machined hook rim).

    On the Centerlock reasoning, I totally disagree with much of that reasoning, but respect it. Anyway, was just a vote meant as helpful feedback, as I am sure there are plenty of folks that would run them.
    jochribs- Sorry for not being clear there! ok, so yeah, the new Control SL's will be slightly higher, although I don't have the final MSRP yet. I think the website will go live with all the information in a couple weeks though. Centerlock- you're right, there are customers out there who would run them, but the logistical nightmare of having them where they'd need to be prohibits us from doing it at this point. Maybe as the brand grows we can justify having more options. Thanks for understanding!

  64. #264
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    When will the carbon control sl's be available? I have had a set ordered since June. Was originally told August but that got pushed back.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by reelmcoy View Post
    When will the carbon control sl's be available? I have had a set ordered since June. Was originally told August but that got pushed back.
    reelmcoy- I'm a bit confused on what you've got on order. Your message mentions having wheels on order since June, but we didn't launch the '14 Control SL 29's until the middle of July. So, that would leave me to believe you ordered the '13 Control SL 29's in June, however, there are plenty of these in stock.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    reelmcoy- I'm a bit confused on what you've got on order. Your message mentions having wheels on order since June, but we didn't launch the '14 Control SL 29's until the middle of July. So, that would leave me to believe you ordered the '13 Control SL 29's in June, however, there are plenty of these in stock.
    Slrry, should have mentioned I ordered 26" wheels. Yes, I am fighting the trend.

  67. #267
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    I have a question on the Roval Traverse SL carbons, does the rear adapt to a 12x135 or only a 12x142 and 10x135 ? I bought these 2nd hand and looks like im missing an adapter. I have a long a short 12mm adapter but that seems to be for 12x142 ? am i missing something ? it is a 135 hub to....

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by reelmcoy View Post
    Slrry, should have mentioned I ordered 26" wheels. Yes, I am fighting the trend.
    reelmcoy- ok, makes total sense now. We stopped making those wheels in 2012. There are a few of them left in 142+ in the red colorway, but that looks like all that would be left.

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmeride View Post
    I have a question on the Roval Traverse SL carbons, does the rear adapt to a 12x135 or only a 12x142 and 10x135 ? I bought these 2nd hand and looks like im missing an adapter. I have a long a short 12mm adapter but that seems to be for 12x142 ? am i missing something ? it is a 135 hub to....
    cmeride- for the 135mm wheels, we supply end caps to convert to 12x142, but do not include end caps for 12x135. However, the hub is convertible to 12x135, you just need to order the end caps from DT Swiss. Their part# is: HWGXXX0002218S. for a full listing of what you can convert to: http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Ima..._Kit_Style.pdf

  70. #270
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    I have just trawled through this thread, looking for the rim height of 2014 Control SL 29 rims. They look taller than the previous generation.

    Roval Joe, do you know the measurement?

  71. #271
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_marsbar View Post
    I have just trawled through this thread, looking for the rim height of 2014 Control SL 29 rims. They look taller than the previous generation.

    Roval Joe, do you know the measurement?
    marshbar- just so I know exactly what you're looking for, are you referring to a measurement that shows the distance from the top of the sidewall to the bottom of the spoke bed? Or are you simply referring to the inner sidewall height from top of sidewall to rim bed?

  72. #272
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    Just found this thread, thx Roval Joe for your help here, makes these wheels an even better buy.

    I've had a set of the Control Carbon 29er wheels for the last 3 months and they have been perfect, have them on a steel HT. Light, stiff, tires mounted up tubeless with no issues and have stayed that way. These are my first carbon wheels so I was skeptical about real world durability under my 210lb frame.

    On the first ride I caught a rock and bent the der hanger, also put a nice gouge in the rear rim. Didn't realize I had bent the hanger and shifted the chain into the spokes later in the ride, bent one of the drive side spokes and knocked the wheel out of true, oh crap! When I got home I inspected the spoke and was able to true the wheel without any issue. Three months later the wheel has stayed true, the spoke is fine and I have added even more scratches to the rim. Very pleased so far!

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    Just found this thread, thx Roval Joe for your help here, makes these wheels an even better buy.

    I've had a set of the Control Carbon 29er wheels for the last 3 months and they have been perfect, have them on a steel HT. Light, stiff, tires mounted up tubeless with no issues and have stayed that way. These are my first carbon wheels so I was skeptical about real world durability under my 210lb frame.

    On the first ride I caught a rock and bent the der hanger, also put a nice gouge in the rear rim. Didn't realize I had bent the hanger and shifted the chain into the spokes later in the ride, bent one of the drive side spokes and knocked the wheel out of true, oh crap! When I got home I inspected the spoke and was able to true the wheel without any issue. Three months later the wheel has stayed true, the spoke is fine and I have added even more scratches to the rim. Very pleased so far!
    rroeder- cool, stoked you're out there enjoying them! we can talk about wheels all day long, but getting out there and riding them is way more fun!

  74. #274
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    Roval Joe - I'm looking for the outside rim height. Like the 355 rim shown here: https://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netd...comparison.jpg which has a rim height of 16.9 mm.

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_marsbar View Post
    Roval Joe - I'm looking for the outside rim height. Like the 355 rim shown here: https://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netd...comparison.jpg which has a rim height of 16.9 mm.
    marshbar- got it. I don't have a dimensioned drawing and that rim engineer is out today, however I just grabbed a rim and measured it at 23.5mm

  76. #276
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    I am a full on Roval lover. I'm rocking two sets, one carbon and one alloy. They have been great and trouble free, until a few days ago when I broke a spoke on the rear wheel of the carbon set.

    I remember tangling with a rock and a while later after some significant lateral stress a tire rub (first time every for this bike/wheelset). A bit later still the ping ping ping of broken spoke on rear triangle. I don't fault the wheels, the spoke broke because I hit the rock. No problem.

    Until I go for repair. I brought the wheel to the local (only) Specialized dealer. It is a good shop, I mostly trust the wrenches though I do almost everything myself (other than wheels). They fix it. But there are tool marks all over the spokes now. Deep gouges right near many of the nipples. One was really bad, apparently the spoke was twisting so much the there was metal missing from the thing. You could feel a step off. There was so much spoke sticking though the nipple I think the thing was spinning because they ran out of threads. I brought the wheel back an they replaced the worst spoke no further charge but WTF. I know there is going to be issues with straight pull spokes spinning but this seems really sub par.

    What is the right way to hold that spoke without damaging it? I know MTB wheels take a beating but I left the place feeling like, albeit having no broken spokes, the wheel was in worse condition than when they got it.

    I haven't mounted it to see it spin but for god sakes it better be round.

    G

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    Until I go for repair. I brought the wheel to the local (only) Specialized dealer. It is a good shop, I mostly trust the wrenches though I do almost everything myself (other than wheels). They fix it. But there are tool marks all over the spokes now. Deep gouges right near many of the nipples. One was really bad, apparently the spoke was twisting so much the there was metal missing from the thing. You could feel a step off. There was so much spoke sticking though the nipple I think the thing was spinning because they ran out of threads. I brought the wheel back an they replaced the worst spoke no further charge but WTF. I know there is going to be issues with straight pull spokes spinning but this seems really sub par.
    Can you tell if they used a Roval spoke to replace the broken one? Or did they replace the spoke and nipple? If I would have let the bike shop replace my broken spoke they might have tried to thread a 2.0 mm spoke into the 1.8mm nipple. Glad I found that error myself. I had no trouble with the spoke spinning when I tensioned my replacement spoke.

  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by fire_strom View Post
    I am a full on Roval lover. I'm rocking two sets, one carbon and one alloy. They have been great and trouble free, until a few days ago when I broke a spoke on the rear wheel of the carbon set.

    I remember tangling with a rock and a while later after some significant lateral stress a tire rub (first time every for this bike/wheelset). A bit later still the ping ping ping of broken spoke on rear triangle. I don't fault the wheels, the spoke broke because I hit the rock. No problem.

    Until I go for repair. I brought the wheel to the local (only) Specialized dealer. It is a good shop, I mostly trust the wrenches though I do almost everything myself (other than wheels). They fix it. But there are tool marks all over the spokes now. Deep gouges right near many of the nipples. One was really bad, apparently the spoke was twisting so much the there was metal missing from the thing. You could feel a step off. There was so much spoke sticking though the nipple I think the thing was spinning because they ran out of threads. I brought the wheel back an they replaced the worst spoke no further charge but WTF. I know there is going to be issues with straight pull spokes spinning but this seems really sub par.

    What is the right way to hold that spoke without damaging it? I know MTB wheels take a beating but I left the place feeling like, albeit having no broken spokes, the wheel was in worse condition than when they got it.

    I haven't mounted it to see it spin but for god sakes it better be round.

    G
    fire storm- Sorry you had such a bad experience! As many wheels are made with straightpull spokes these days, there are tools out there made for holding the spokes while truing/tensioning. The nicer tools have a softer metal in the "jaws" that grab a spoke without scratching/damaging it. We are actually making a tool right now which should be available in a month or so for shops to purchase, but I do know there are others out there. While I can't explain the reason for the shop's actions, I'm surprised they put in a spoke that was too long. Yes, if there were a lot of threads showing at the top of the nipple, it's quite possible the nipple was bottomed out on the threads. Everyone makes mistakes now and then, and if this is a good shop, I imagine they took the time to get it right when you brought it back and pointed out the error.

  79. #279
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    Joe, There is play in my front hub on my Roval Control SL 29 wheel.

    When clamped in my Whisky #9 fork, (maxle 15mm) the wheel has a rattle coming from the end caps and axle. You can feel it when moving the wheel right to left, and you can hear it rattle if you lift the bike up a couple inches and drop it onto the floor.

    The axle has play, and the drive side end cap has a lot of play too. Both are contributing to the overall play in the hub.

    I returned it for warranty earlier in the year and it came back unfixed. Now the play in the axle is causing expedited wear on the bearings, and now they will need to be replaced soon.

    Has is this a common issue with these hubs?
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  80. #280
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    Hey Joe, I am still not clear wether to go for the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 or the 2013/2014 Roval Control Carbon 29.
    The overall weight is not that important for me, but I really would like to have fast wheels.
    Could you please specify the respective weight of the rims - as they are the significant rotating mass.
    That would be really great!

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    Joe, There is play in my front hub on my Roval Control SL 29 wheel.

    When clamped in my Whisky #9 fork, (maxle 15mm) the wheel has a rattle coming from the end caps and axle. You can feel it when moving the wheel right to left, and you can hear it rattle if you lift the bike up a couple inches and drop it onto the floor.

    The axle has play, and the drive side end cap has a lot of play too. Both are contributing to the overall play in the hub.

    I returned it for warranty earlier in the year and it came back unfixed. Now the play in the axle is causing expedited wear on the bearings, and now they will need to be replaced soon.

    Has is this a common issue with these hubs?
    Sheepo- I've heard of this happening on some of these models, but warranty was able to fix them. I assume you took it to a shop for replacement, and they performed the service? if they were unable to fix it, you should have the shop return it to the service center to be fixed. You shouldn't have to put up with play in the bearings, especially after trying to have the problem fixed once already.

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Hey Joe, I am still not clear wether to go for the 2014 Roval Control SL 29 or the 2013/2014 Roval Control Carbon 29.
    The overall weight is not that important for me, but I really would like to have fast wheels.
    Could you please specify the respective weight of the rims - as they are the significant rotating mass.
    That would be really great!
    Bart- We don't give out weights for individual components of the wheels, but I can tell you the weight difference of the rims in the wheels you are looking at is about 30-40g per rim. hope this helps.

  83. #283
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Bart- We don't give out weights for individual components of the wheels, but I can tell you the weight difference of the rims in the wheels you are looking at is about 30-40g per rim. hope this helps.
    That helps! Thx!

  84. #284
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    Roval questions?

    BTW, will there be any changes in 2014 to the Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels?
    Do they also use the hookless rim now?

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    BTW, will there be any changes in 2014 to the Roval Control Trail SL 29 wheels?
    Do they also use the hookless rim now?
    Hi Bart- for model year '14, there are no changes to Control Trail SL's. Hookless beads are now on Control SL 29, Control Carbon 29, and Traverse SL 29. We're working on eventually changing all rims, but do not have the capacity to do all of them at once.

  86. #286
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hi Bart- for model year '14, there are no changes to Control Trail SL's. Hookless beads are now on Control SL 29, Control Carbon 29, and Traverse SL 29. We're working on eventually changing all rims, but do not have the capacity to do all of them at once.
    Thx for that quick feedback!
    I think everybody really appreciates your commitment!

    I am still considering what the right wheel for me will be, currently comparing the Control Carbon vs. the Trail SL (don't trust the 24/28 spokes on the Control SL)

    I just can't see the value proposition of the Trail SL over the Control Carbon: Trail SL is much more expensive, has the same weight and the Control Carbon wheel is as durable as the Trail SL (?) - ok, the Trail SL has a slightly better hub. But is that worth the extra price? IMHO no!

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Thx for that quick feedback!
    I think everybody really appreciates your commitment!

    I am still considering what the right wheel for me will be, currently comparing the Control Carbon vs. the Trail SL (don't trust the 24/28 spokes on the Control SL)

    I just can't see the value proposition of the Trail SL over the Control Carbon: Trail SL is much more expensive, has the same weight and the Control Carbon wheel is as durable as the Trail SL (?) - ok, the Trail SL has a slightly better hub. But is that worth the extra price? IMHO no!
    Hey Bart, no problem, glad people are on here asking questions about the wheels! OK, about your wheel choice, there is about 110g weight difference between Control Carbon 29 and Control Trail SL 29. The Control Trail wheel would be something you might consider if you are looking to squeeze every gram out of your wheelset, as rotating weight is some of the best weight to shave off your bike. The Control Carbon wheels have rims that are a bit heavier, and the rear hub is a bit heavier. however, spokes are a little lighter on Control Carbon also. All that being said, the Control Carbon is one heck of a bargain for a nice performing carbon wheelset. If you are looking for true value, the Control Carbon would be the wheel to get.

  88. #288
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    Anyone know how tough the 26" Traverse SLs are? I have them on my Stumpjumper Evo, but I was curious how they would hold up at a bike park (Whistler, Stevens Pass etc.) on my Enduro Evo.

    The traverse SL are so light and responsive I actually hate riding aluminum wheels now and would even consider a 2nd set if they can take the abuse. The aluminum Traverse are Spec'd on the Enduro Evo Expert, so I'm thinking the carbon ones might be ok to use.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    Anyone know how tough the 26" Traverse SLs are? I have them on my Stumpjumper Evo, but I was curious how they would hold up at a bike park (Whistler, Stevens Pass etc.) on my Enduro Evo.

    The traverse SL are so light and responsive I actually hate riding aluminum wheels now and would even consider a 2nd set if they can take the abuse. The aluminum Traverse are Spec'd on the Enduro Evo Expert, so I'm thinking the carbon ones might be ok to use.
    Mr. Lynch- I have to laugh at your statement "...I actually hate riding aluminum wheels now..."! The reason why is when we started developing carbon wheels here a number of years ago, we all started field testing them, and instantly all of us turned into carbon wheel snobs!! I can sympathize with your situation. Ok, so hopefully some Traverse SL 26" owners will chime in here, but in my opinion, whether you can use them on your Enduro Expert Evo kind of depends on your riding style, terrain, and tire choice. If you are not dinging/denting your alloy rims on the Evo, then you might be ok with the carbon wheels on there. If you are running thicker casing tires like Specialized GRID or DH casing, this will also help protect the rims. Where exactly are you riding?

  90. #290
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    i use to laugh at the thought of carbon wheels, but after riding them for the past 9 months I'm sold on the idea!
    I've rode some pretty rugged terrain on them and had zero issues.

    I've rode my Enduro Evo 3x this season up at Whistler and had zero issues on both the stock Status wheels and a set of Traverse ELs. We pretty much ride all the trails up there and tend to switch back and forth between flowlines and techlines. I'm not sure what's tougher on a rim though, casing a big jump on Aline, or nailing a rock on a double black tech trail. I've done plenty of both without breaking spokes or dinging a rim. As for tires I'm running the stock Butcher SX.

    I've tried the Traverse SL on the Enduro Evo on local trails and they feel amazing and have been curious about how they would hold up to a day at Whistler. Not sure if a carbon rim is better or worse at handling the abuse.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  91. #291
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    What is the ERD of the Roval Control Carbon Trail SL 29 142+? I searched all over the wheel but I couldn't find it. I want to guess 601. correct?
    I like to hug trees at FULL SPEED!
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  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    i use to laugh at the thought of carbon wheels, but after riding them for the past 9 months I'm sold on the idea!
    I've rode some pretty rugged terrain on them and had zero issues.

    I've rode my Enduro Evo 3x this season up at Whistler and had zero issues on both the stock Status wheels and a set of Traverse ELs. We pretty much ride all the trails up there and tend to switch back and forth between flowlines and techlines. I'm not sure what's tougher on a rim though, casing a big jump on Aline, or nailing a rock on a double black tech trail. I've done plenty of both without breaking spokes or dinging a rim. As for tires I'm running the stock Butcher SX.

    I've tried the Traverse SL on the Enduro Evo on local trails and they feel amazing and have been curious about how they would hold up to a day at Whistler. Not sure if a carbon rim is better or worse at handling the abuse.
    Mr Lynch- personally I think rock impacts are harder on carbon rims than casing jumps, but I don't have any evidence to show that. If you case something hard enough, it will still break. If you are not denting your alloy rims, you will probably be ok with running the carbon rims.

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazukea View Post
    What is the ERD of the Roval Control Carbon Trail SL 29 142+? I searched all over the wheel but I couldn't find it. I want to guess 601. correct?
    Mazuke- because we engineer wheels to be built as a system, it's our policy to not provide information that encourages rebuilding rims/hubs into other components.

  94. #294
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    Can I get a 9mm through axle conversion kit for my Control SL E5 26" wheels?

  95. #295
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    Specialized doesnt sell a 9mm though axle endcap for roval wheels. Your only option is to have a machine shop drill out a 9mm qr end cap to fit the 9mm thru axle.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  96. #296
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    Now to find some 9mm through axle QR's...

  97. #297
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    Roval questions?

    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    Now to find some 9mm through axle QR's...
    Check out Novatec thru-QR skewers. Unless you like the more expensive, but easier to get in the USA; DT Swiss 9mm thru-RWS skewer.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
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  98. #298
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    I currently have the Roval Control 142+ Alloy's that came with my 2013 Epic Expert Carbon. I'm wondering how much of a difference I'd get going to the Carbon SL's (2014 version specifically)?

    I only ride xc, and am fairly easy on my components (hit my bravery limit before the bike limit on the rougher stuff), though I'm closer to the weight limit than I'd like.

    I'm not so much looking at them for the lighter wieght (which would be nice), but in just how much of a difference in handling and ride they'd make. I'm wondering the difference between my current alloy ones, and the 142 or 142+ versions of the SL (I'm undecided on which I'd go for at the moment, so want to see if the 142 would be much of an improvement by themselves, or really only the 142+ version).

    Probably going to get them anyway, but just currious.

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by gc49 View Post
    I currently have the Roval Control 142+ Alloy's that came with my 2013 Epic Expert Carbon. I'm wondering how much of a difference I'd get going to the Carbon SL's (2014 version specifically)?

    I only ride xc, and am fairly easy on my components (hit my bravery limit before the bike limit on the rougher stuff), though I'm closer to the weight limit than I'd like.

    I'm not so much looking at them for the lighter wieght (which would be nice), but in just how much of a difference in handling and ride they'd make. I'm wondering the difference between my current alloy ones, and the 142 or 142+ versions of the SL (I'm undecided on which I'd go for at the moment, so want to see if the 142 would be much of an improvement by themselves, or really only the 142+ version).

    Probably going to get them anyway, but just currious.
    gc49- I know you're not so concerned about the weight, but the huge weight difference actually makes a huge difference in the ride quality. you'll be able to accelerate much quicker, pick up over logs/trail obstacles easier, etc. The stiffness difference will also be apparent right away. At this point it sounds cliché since you hear it in marketing about many products, but a carbon wheel upgrade will dramatically change the way your bike rides.

  100. #300
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    Hi Joe:
    Will the specialized roval bearing tool S125300013 service the REAR hubs as well as the front? If not, is there another tool for servicing the rear hubs?

  101. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by MountainHead View Post
    Hi Joe:
    Will the specialized roval bearing tool S125300013 service the REAR hubs as well as the front? If not, is there another tool for servicing the rear hubs?
    Mountainhead- the tool you mention only does the front hubs. For the rear hubs, it takes a DT tool which you can buy from Specialized (PN:S2032002), or DT (PN:HWTXXX00NTK24S).

  102. #302
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    Roval question: I have the Spec Rumor with the Roval Control 29 wheelset which I believe has an outer rim of 24 and an inner rim of 21.

    I am thinking of switching to Roval Control SL carbon 142+ (1350g). Outer rim of 28 and inner rim of 22.

    Is the rim depth on the SL carbon the same as the rim depth on the Roval Control?

    When will the carbon SL be available?
    Thanks

  103. #303
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    Will the rear hub of the Roval SL 2014 be compatible with the upcoming Shimano 11s cassette out of the box?

  104. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyclerDi View Post
    Roval question: I have the Spec Rumor with the Roval Control 29 wheelset which I believe has an outer rim of 24 and an inner rim of 21.

    I am thinking of switching to Roval Control SL carbon 142+ (1350g). Outer rim of 28 and inner rim of 22.

    Is the rim depth on the SL carbon the same as the rim depth on the Roval Control?

    When will the carbon SL be available?
    Thanks
    CycleDi- Sorry, can you be more specific on rim depth? do you mean depth as in top of sidewall to bottom of spoke bed, or something else? If top of sidewall to bottom of spoke bed, yes, there is a difference, the Control SL is a little deeper. We just got 40 sets of Control SL's in our Salt Lake wharehouse, and those should be visible to dealers in the next few days.

  105. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by madskatingcow View Post
    Will the rear hub of the Roval SL 2014 be compatible with the upcoming Shimano 11s cassette out of the box?
    madskatingco- I'm not at liberty to discuss details about upcoming Shimano products until they are launched publicly.

  106. #306
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    Roval Joe - A friend gave me a Traversee E5 rear wheel that needs to be rebuilt. Hub and rim look good, but his rear derailleur tore some spokes out in a less-than-graceful way.

    I know they're straight pull DT spokes, but I'm not sure which lengths to get.

    Thanks in advance!

  107. #307
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    Joe posted a very detailed chart earlier in this thread....

  108. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsj3831 View Post
    Joe posted a very detailed chart earlier in this thread....
    I'll take a look through it then.

  109. #309
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    Hi Joe:
    I have some new Roval Traverse SL 29 carbon wheels with the beadless rim hook. I have Specialized Caption Armadillo Elite 29 x 2.0 tires, with tubes, mounted to them. My main ride is on all paved roads, so I run the tire pressure at 60psi for lower rolling resistance on pavement. The tires are rated at 65psi max. I pump up the tires and check the pressure before each ride.

    Yesterday I was 4 miles into my ride, on a smooth concrete path, when the rear tire exploded off the rim. There was no puncture in the tire casing. I replaced the tube, inflated with my trail pump, and completed my 28 mile ride without incident.

    When I got home, I measured the rear tire pressure and found it to be 45psi (what I had inflated it to with my trail pump).

    I have read that the beadless rim hook wheels have been tested at high psi and it was found that the rim fails long before the tire explodes off the rim. Does using a tube compromise the tire's seal with the beadless rims? Is the 60psi inflation pressure responsible for this failure? I know the rim is marked 45psi max, but I believe this is to cushion the rim and protect against rim damage from impacts during trail riding. I have run 60psi with Roval Control SL carbon rims (marked 45psi max) that have a bead hook for road riding for years without incident. Would you expect to have the tire com off the rim with the Roval Traverse 29 beadless rim hook rims running tubes at 60psi? Could this be a tire defect rather than a setup problem? Or is the 60psi the problem?

  110. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by roosri View Post
    Roval Joe - A friend gave me a Traversee E5 rear wheel that needs to be rebuilt. Hub and rim look good, but his rear derailleur tore some spokes out in a less-than-graceful way.

    I know they're straight pull DT spokes, but I'm not sure which lengths to get.

    Thanks in advance!
    roosri- sorry for the late reply. hopefully you were able to locate the spoke chart I posted?

  111. #311
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    Hey Joe, I heard that that the DT Swiss hubs are laquered in contrast to most other hubs which are anodized. What about the Roval hubs?

  112. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by bart_simpson View Post
    Hey Joe, I heard that that the DT Swiss hubs are laquered in contrast to most other hubs which are anodized. What about the Roval hubs?
    bart- apologies for my delay in response! was out traveling last week and just getting caught up. You heard correctly, DT mostly prefers paint to anodizing. They do this on a lot of their rims as well as hubs. There are a few reasons for this, and if you really want to know why I can explain, but to answer your question, yes, the Roval hubs we used which are manufactured by DT are painted.

  113. #313
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    Hey Joe.

    I have a cannondale scalpel 29" carbon. I now ride with stans arch rims but would like some carbon wheels.

    I am thinking of the carbon control sl, 2014.

    Would it be possible to convert the front hub to lefty? or could i buy a lefty hub, 28 holes and shift the spoke and rim?

  114. #314
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    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for fielding all these questions. Here's mine:

    Just picked up a brand new 2013 s-works epic 29 with the stock Control SL wheels. After the first ride I noticed a lot of front wheel bearing play. Wheel rattles when bounced (not headset). Pulled the end caps and they are perfectly clean and seem to seat properly, bearings are perfect. When I install the front wheel with very light quick release clamp force, there is no play whatsoever. However, as I increase quick release clamping pressure play increases.

    It's hard to imagine that the inner race of the bearings could be compressing on the axle, and the axle tube can't be moving or the bearings would begin to bind. Seems like it must the the end caps bowing under pressure.

    I've seen other posts talking about similar issues, but nothing that actually details the problem and what is needed to fix it. Did Specialized issue new end caps to address this issue?

    Thanks!

  115. #315
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    The right hand front bearing in my Control SL alloy 26's died today during an XC race.

    Pulled it out and wow, there's not a hell of a lot of bearing in these wheels!
    20x27x4mm

  116. #316
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    My Roval SL 29 2013 front hub bearings already died after 600km, dry weather only. Bearings are so tiny, but this is supposed to be fixed with the 2014 version.

    I already picked up the Roval SL 2014's at Bike Motion at the Specialized boot. They are light, incredible. Really made me wonder about their duarbility. Time will tell!

  117. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by billendk View Post
    Hey Joe.

    I have a cannondale scalpel 29" carbon. I now ride with stans arch rims but would like some carbon wheels.

    I am thinking of the carbon control sl, 2014.

    Would it be possible to convert the front hub to lefty? or could i buy a lefty hub, 28 holes and shift the spoke and rim?
    billendk- unfortunately we don't have a conversion for the lefty fork that works with our wheels. you might be able to replace the Roval hub with a lefty version, but you'd most likely have to get new spoke lengths, and it would be a lot of trouble. Front wheels on the new Control SL's are 24h.

  118. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notasfastasmykid View Post
    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for fielding all these questions. Here's mine:

    Just picked up a brand new 2013 s-works epic 29 with the stock Control SL wheels. After the first ride I noticed a lot of front wheel bearing play. Wheel rattles when bounced (not headset). Pulled the end caps and they are perfectly clean and seem to seat properly, bearings are perfect. When I install the front wheel with very light quick release clamp force, there is no play whatsoever. However, as I increase quick release clamping pressure play increases.

    It's hard to imagine that the inner race of the bearings could be compressing on the axle, and the axle tube can't be moving or the bearings would begin to bind. Seems like it must the the end caps bowing under pressure.

    I've seen other posts talking about similar issues, but nothing that actually details the problem and what is needed to fix it. Did Specialized issue new end caps to address this issue?

    Thanks!
    Notasfastamykid- I have seen issues with some Control SL front wheels where there was play when the wheel was installed and qr tightened, however, nothing specifically like yours, where you get more play with increased clamping force. For the cases I have seen, it was not an endcap issue, rather, it was a bearing installation issue. The problem was fixed by having a dealer or our service center properly replace the bearings. Have your shop do this, or you can contact our customer service direct to have it done that route. If you purchased the bike new, it should be covered under warranty.

  119. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by NordieBoy View Post
    The right hand front bearing in my Control SL alloy 26's died today during an XC race.

    Pulled it out and wow, there's not a hell of a lot of bearing in these wheels!
    20x27x4mm
    Nordieboy- yes, the goal of this hub was to be very light, as it is an XC race wheel.

  120. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by madskatingcow View Post
    My Roval SL 29 2013 front hub bearings already died after 600km, dry weather only. Bearings are so tiny, but this is supposed to be fixed with the 2014 version.

    I already picked up the Roval SL 2014's at Bike Motion at the Specialized boot. They are light, incredible. Really made me wonder about their duarbility. Time will tell!
    madskatingcow- yes, with the new hubs, we have made some major design changes. these include increased size of bearings, more precise machining (this is the first front hub we've done with DT Swiss), a labyrinth system which helps keep water from damaging the bearings, as well as an additional press in seal that is in addition to the standard bearing seals already in the hub. So far results have been very good with these hubs.

  121. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Nordieboy- yes, the goal of this hub was to be very light, as it is an XC race wheel.
    That it is.
    The front wheel with a Mich Wild Race'R Ultimate Advanced is 1,250g.
    My spare wheel with Larsen TT and tube is 2,100g.

  122. #322
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    Which OEM Specialized Roval wheels can be converted to us with xx1?
    I picked up an OEM 2012 Control Trail rear wheel for super cheap to use as a spare and it doesn't appear to be convertible. I know the higher end Roval wheels with the DT internals will convert, but what about the Rovals on the "cheaper" models?

    I normally run 2013 Traverse SL, but I'm looking for a cheap Aluminum set to run when it is really wet and muddy this winter. I see tons of OEM Rovals for sale on Craigslist and eBay and it would be nice to know what years/models are xx1 compatible.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  123. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    Which OEM Specialized Roval wheels can be converted to us with xx1?
    I picked up an OEM 2012 Control Trail rear wheel for super cheap to use as a spare and it doesn't appear to be convertible. I know the higher end Roval wheels with the DT internals will convert, but what about the Rovals on the "cheaper" models?

    I normally run 2013 Traverse SL, but I'm looking for a cheap Aluminum set to run when it is really wet and muddy this winter. I see tons of OEM Rovals for sale on Craigslist and eBay and it would be nice to know what years/models are xx1 compatible.
    Mr. Lynch- please keep in mind the OE level wheelsets which use a Roval alloy rim and J Bend spokes are not what we consider a Roval wheelset. These are using a Roval rim, but laced into OE level hubs, and are machine built. Same as Specialized has used DT rims in the past, but they are not a DT wheelset. The only wheels we're using on bikes that are XX1 compatible are the actual Roval wheelsets with straight pull spokes, and come on Expert level bikes and above. Basically if you see a used wheelset that is on anything newer than probably model year 2012 or newer and has straight pull spokes, it can be converted to XX1 freehub. Anything with J Bend spokes will not be compatible, with the exception of one wheel that comes on 2014 Enduro Expert Evo. That particular wheel uses a J Bend style DT 350 rear hub, and comes with an 11spd freehub body already installed.

  124. #324
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    Made an insertion tool and installed 2 tiny bearings in my front wheel.
    It now goes round and round again.

  125. #325
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    2010 Control EL XC - 29er

    Joe

    I have a set from a 2010 Epic Marathon and remember seeing a set of adapters 15mm, 20mm plus regular 9mm (not OS) from the site in 2010. It seems the front hub changed in 2011. I cannot get wayback to bring up your 2010 site. Dealers try, but are not able to help even when calling Specialized.

    There was an article in twentynineinches.com where they spoke to spechy wheel product manager at time talking about adapters and even photos from 2010.

    Do you have part numbers for 15mm adapters for these wheels.

    Thanks

    Rob

  126. #326
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    Roval Front Hub Bearing Tool

    Hi Joe:
    I have had the roval front hub bearing tool S125300013
    on order at my LBS since July. Specialized says it is out of stock. Do you have any insight into when it might be available?

  127. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack'sDad View Post
    Joe

    I have a set from a 2010 Epic Marathon and remember seeing a set of adapters 15mm, 20mm plus regular 9mm (not OS) from the site in 2010. It seems the front hub changed in 2011. I cannot get wayback to bring up your 2010 site. Dealers try, but are not able to help even when calling Specialized.

    There was an article in twentynineinches.com where they spoke to spechy wheel product manager at time talking about adapters and even photos from 2010.

    Do you have part numbers for 15mm adapters for these wheels.

    Thanks

    Rob
    Rob- PN's for these are: S115900003, and S115900004 (left/right side). your dealer will have to order them, doesn't look like we have many left. From my records, it looks like the hub changed in 2012, and these caps were used in 10/11.

  128. #328
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    Roval Joe:

    As others have said, thank you for taking the time on this forum. And I realize this question is somewhat similar to previously asked but not exactly so I hope not bad form to post it.

    I have a set of control 29 el aluminum rim wheels which I believe came off of a Stumpjumper Epic, probably a 2010 if I had to guess. I have now acquired a set of used Control Trail SL 29 and based on color configuration I am guessing they are 2012: black carbon rims with red "roval" decal (and "CONTROL TRAIL 29 SL" written in tiny white type on a red decal stripe next to the main large "roval" decal). Red spoke nipples as well. I did not receive 20mm adapters and when I tried the adapters from my old aluminum wheels the width is too great to fit on my fork. It looks like the hub body on the new wheels is approximately 1/4" wider than the old wheels, with the additional width coming on the non disc side of the hub if I am looking at it correctly, so obviously the adapters from the old wheels is going to make the fit too wide for a fork.

    So, can you please advise what part # adapters I need and whether I only need a new R/drive side (if indeed the width is same for the L/disc side)?

    Thank you.

  129. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhkvt View Post
    Roval Joe:

    As others have said, thank you for taking the time on this forum. And I realize this question is somewhat similar to previously asked but not exactly so I hope not bad form to post it.

    I have a set of control 29 el aluminum rim wheels which I believe came off of a Stumpjumper Epic, probably a 2010 if I had to guess. I have now acquired a set of used Control Trail SL 29 and based on color configuration I am guessing they are 2012: black carbon rims with red "roval" decal (and "CONTROL TRAIL 29 SL" written in tiny white type on a red decal stripe next to the main large "roval" decal). Red spoke nipples as well. I did not receive 20mm adapters and when I tried the adapters from my old aluminum wheels the width is too great to fit on my fork. It looks like the hub body on the new wheels is approximately 1/4" wider than the old wheels, with the additional width coming on the non disc side of the hub if I am looking at it correctly, so obviously the adapters from the old wheels is going to make the fit too wide for a fork.

    So, can you please advise what part # adapters I need and whether I only need a new R/drive side (if indeed the width is same for the L/disc side)?

    Thank you.
    Jhkvt- S125900003 is the part number for the set of 20mm end caps you'll need.

  130. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by MountainHead View Post
    Hi Joe:
    I have had the roval front hub bearing tool S125300013
    on order at my LBS since July. Specialized says it is out of stock. Do you have any insight into when it might be available?
    MountainHead- I'm looking into this give me a day or two. They are showing we have stock, so I'm not sure why they can't be ordered. could be they are held in a separate inventory or something.

  131. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by MountainHead View Post
    Hi Joe:
    I have had the roval front hub bearing tool S125300013
    on order at my LBS since July. Specialized says it is out of stock. Do you have any insight into when it might be available?
    MountainHead- Sounds like the inventory I am seeing in our system just showed up 2 days ago. Please have your dealer place an order again. if you still run into problems, please let me know.

  132. #332
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    Hi Roval Joe,
    I have a pair of 26" Roval Controle SL wheels (same as these --> Specialized Roval Controle SL XC Disc Wheelset Reviews - Mtbr.com ).

    Please can you tell me if 15mm adapters are available for the front and if so what part numbers?
    Many Thanks in advance.
    Terry

  133. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Rob- PN's for these are: S115900003, and S115900004 (left/right side). your dealer will have to order them, doesn't look like we have many left. From my records, it looks like the hub changed in 2012, and these caps were used in 10/11.
    so wait... a product only 2 years old has already lost Specialized support?
    Put a mountain biker in a room with 2 bowling balls and we'll break one and lose the other - GelatiCruiser

  134. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by lorduswardus View Post
    Hi Roval Joe,
    I have a pair of 26" Roval Controle SL wheels (same as these --> Specialized Roval Controle SL XC Disc Wheelset Reviews - Mtbr.com ).

    Please can you tell me if 15mm adapters are available for the front and if so what part numbers?
    Many Thanks in advance.
    Terry
    Hi Terry, part numbers are: S115900003, and S115900004.

  135. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by SandSpur View Post
    so wait... a product only 2 years old has already lost Specialized support?
    sandspur- these endcaps are 3 model years old (we are in MY14 now), we have the end caps in stock, and when they run out, more can be ordered (assuming we still have demand for them). Lack of support would mean there were zero in stock, with no plans of re-ordering them. Or even worse, no part number.

  136. #336
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    Glad I found this thread and good on you Joe for making info so accessible. I have just taken delivery of my 2014 Enduro 29 Expert I like the Traverse wheels that come with it but I made the jump to carbon rimmed wheels recently and would like to continue to use some. So my plan is to put some Derby or light bike carbon rims onto the hubs. Any chance you can give me the spoke length and spec used in the 29 Traverse and also the weight of the hubs and rims so I can get an idea of what weight they will be. Cheers.

  137. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_t_b View Post
    Glad I found this thread and good on you Joe for making info so accessible. I have just taken delivery of my 2014 Enduro 29 Expert I like the Traverse wheels that come with it but I made the jump to carbon rimmed wheels recently and would like to continue to use some. So my plan is to put some Derby or light bike carbon rims onto the hubs. Any chance you can give me the spoke length and spec used in the 29 Traverse and also the weight of the hubs and rims so I can get an idea of what weight they will be. Cheers.
    m_t_b- I understand the love for carbon rims, but we do not publish component weights or condone rebuilding our wheels with non original spec. That being said, I have posted a spoke lookup chart in this thread a couple times, you can reference that for info.

  138. #338
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    Hi Roval Joe, please prove my understanding from pdf that for my Roval EL 29 front wheel I need S125900006 15 mm thruaxle kit. Thanks in advance.

  139. #339
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    Hi Joe!
    I have opportunity to buy Roval Traverse which came on 2012 (or 2013) Spec Enduro. Front hub is Roval 15mm. I have Camber Expert with RS Reba RL dual air with 9mm RWS thru axle. Is there any adapter so I can use those wheels on my bike?
    Cheers!

  140. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by leugene View Post
    Hi Roval Joe, please prove my understanding from pdf that for my Roval EL 29 front wheel I need S125900006 15 mm thruaxle kit. Thanks in advance.
    leugene- what year is your wheel?

  141. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by pero_dinamit View Post
    Hi Joe!
    I have opportunity to buy Roval Traverse which came on 2012 (or 2013) Spec Enduro. Front hub is Roval 15mm. I have Camber Expert with RS Reba RL dual air with 9mm RWS thru axle. Is there any adapter so I can use those wheels on my bike?
    Cheers!
    pero_dinamit- the wheels you are interested in buying are compatible with standard 5mm QR (just need to swap the end caps on the front hub), which will work with your fork. you won't be able to use the 9mm RWS, but a standard QR will work fine.

  142. #342
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    I realize the hubs and spokes are different, but can you confirm that the Traverse rims from a Stumpjumper Evo are the same as the Rovel Traverse 29?

    Specialized Bicycle Components

    Specialized Bicycle Components

    Thanks!

  143. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bjdraw View Post
    I realize the hubs and spokes are different, but can you confirm that the Traverse rims from a Stumpjumper Evo are the same as the Rovel Traverse 29?

    Specialized Bicycle Components

    Specialized Bicycle Components

    Thanks!
    Bjdraw- yes, the rims between those two wheels are the same, just a different graphic application.

  144. #344
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    Hello Roval Joe. This is a great tool, but do you have a chart that shows recommended tire sizes for each Roval wheel-set? At least for your own Specialized Tires. We are all aware one can put multiple tire widths on a given rim, but at least some guidelines as far as mins and max? For example, what would be the min, max and perhaps ideal tire for a Traverse EL for ideal tire shape and bead set? (I know they are are obsolete) and say a newer Traverse and Traverse SL Carbon too? Really like to know. I think the EL are 22mm internally? The SL is like the same. Lastly, do you have any similar charts for your older-gen wheel-sets say 2010? Thank you for your help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Attachment 785132

    Here's a quick reference tool that shows all internal/external rim widths, plus compatibility, spoke spec, etc, for all current wheels in the Roval Mtn lineup.

  145. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    leugene- what year is your wheel?
    Not sure exactly, it should be 2010 or 2011 MY, it is 32 spokes alu wheels with really big front hub, so I guessed 42mm OD end caps should fit.

  146. #346
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    Roval Joe
    Would you verify the 2014 carbon SL rim width - 28/21 per tech sheet or 28/22 per website.
    When will they be available? Thanks

  147. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyclerDi View Post
    Roval Joe
    Would you verify the 2014 carbon SL rim width - 28/21 per tech sheet or 28/22 per website.
    When will they be available? Thanks
    CyclerDi- the new 2014 Control SL's are 22mm inner width. Model year 2013 and prior were 21mm. Can I ask where you saw the tech sheet that showed the '14 Control SL as 21mm inner width? I'd like to fix that misprint.

  148. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    CyclerDi- the new 2014 Control SL's are 22mm inner width. Model year 2013 and prior were 21mm. Can I ask where you saw the tech sheet that showed the '14 Control SL as 21mm inner width? I'd like to fix that misprint.
    It was in the tech document that you posted. I think it must have been a 2013 document showing all the wheelset models and specs.

    When will the control carbon SL be available?

  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by CyclerDi View Post
    It was in the tech document that you posted. I think it must have been a 2013 document showing all the wheelset models and specs.

    When will the control carbon SL be available?
    ok, thanks for that- yes, that document was referring to model year '13. The first shipment of wheels came in already and sold out, last time I checked there were more coming in November and December. let me check back on that and if that is not the case, I'll post an update here.

  150. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Good question. Roval was founded on, and continues to be, a "systems approach" idea. The rims are strong and light, the spokes & hubs high-quality, (all laced and trued by hand), and all the pieces are built to work together to make a better wheel. So we don't sell them separately to keep the system intact.

    If there is an issue with any piece though, like a rim or even a bearing or nipple, replacements are available through warranty.
    I purchased a set of Carbon Roval's. I mounted them up with new tires and went for a ride. First ride I got a flat. I discovered my sidewall on my NEW tire was torn. I put on another new tire, and something happened. I inspected the new carbon rim and found it was split where the tire bead sits, thus causing the toren sidewall on my tires. I took the rim back expecting to get a new wheel under warranty. NOPE! Specialized would only replace the hoop. I had to pay the bike shop to re-lace my wheel and purchase another $70 tire. I constantly have problems keeping that rim true and I have already replaced a broken spoke and a torn out nipple.
    I met someone on the trail who was riding on Enve carbon wheels. I asked her how she liked them, because I'm so tired of dealing with mine. She told me she had the same problems with the Roval's, and knew of others that had the same issue. She loves her Enve's and highly recommended them to me. I have spent a lot of money on my Roval rims. I'm VERY disappointed in Specialized in how they handled the warranty.
    Can you help me in any way. Or should I just get the Envy’s?

  151. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by DTM2u View Post
    I purchased a set of Carbon Roval's. I mounted them up with new tires and went for a ride. First ride I got a flat. I discovered my sidewall on my NEW tire was torn. I put on another new tire, and something happened. I inspected the new carbon rim and found it was split where the tire bead sits, thus causing the toren sidewall on my tires. I took the rim back expecting to get a new wheel under warranty. NOPE! Specialized would only replace the hoop. I had to pay the bike shop to re-lace my wheel and purchase another $70 tire. I constantly have problems keeping that rim true and I have already replaced a broken spoke and a torn out nipple.
    I met someone on the trail who was riding on Enve carbon wheels. I asked her how she liked them, because I'm so tired of dealing with mine. She told me she had the same problems with the Roval's, and knew of others that had the same issue. She loves her Enve's and highly recommended them to me. I have spent a lot of money on my Roval rims. I'm VERY disappointed in Specialized in how they handled the warranty.
    Can you help me in any way. Or should I just get the Envy’s?
    DTM2u- Sorry you had such a bad experience! let me see what I can do to help you out. I'm surprised the shop did not warranty the whole wheel. Can you PM me with the following details: - which shop did you go to (also was this where you purchased the wheels?), and which model of wheel you purchased? Thanks!

  152. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    DTM2u- Sorry you had such a bad experience! let me see what I can do to help you out. I'm surprised the shop did not warranty the whole wheel. Can you PM me with the following details: - which shop did you go to (also was this where you purchased the wheels?), and which model of wheel you purchased? Thanks!

    PM sent

  153. #353
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    Wheelset Archive?

    HEY ROVAL JOE - super cool to have you as a resource on this board.

    any chance that specialized has an index of each year's wheelset and the specs on them? Kind of like the bike archive that is up now, but specifically to wheelsets. I am looking at various 142+ Control SL's on the used market, but it has been difficult to tell which years weigh what and when the small changes were made. Same for Control Carbons too I guess, where I am at is trying to decide whether to buy some used older SL's or brand new carbon controls.

    If all this info already exists somewhere, sorry for this post. Couldnt find it though...

    Thanks!

  154. #354
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    HEY ROVAL JOE - super cool to have you as a resource on this board.

    any chance that specialized has an index of each year's wheelset and the specs on them? Kind of like the bike archive that is up now, but specifically to wheelsets. I am looking at various 142+ Control SL's on the used market, but it has been difficult to tell which years weigh what and when the small changes were made. Same for Control Carbons too I guess, where I am at is trying to decide whether to buy some used older SL's or brand new carbon controls.

    If all this info already exists somewhere, sorry for this post. Couldnt find it though...

    Thanks!

  155. #355
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    Hey Roval Joe,

    would be great to get your help at my problem.

    I ride a Enduro S Works SL FSR 2010 with Roval Traverse EL wheels and a Future Stock E160TA Fork. The Axle is 20mm.

    Now I bought a Rock Shox Pike RCT3 Solo Air 2014 with a 15mm Axle.

    Is there any fitting kit where I can change my front wheel from 20mm Axle to 15mm Axle so that I can use the Pike?

    Best regards

  156. #356
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    Joe
    I hope you can help!

    Bear with me as I am mechanically challenged!

    I have a front wheel that uses a 20mm Maxle I have a front wheel with a Roval hub. there is a thick spacer thingy and a thin one, I have managed to lose the thin one!

    It seems to stops the maxle pinching the bearing as the wheel doesn't turn when i tighten the lever

    Any Idea where I can get another one? My local bike shop says I will need a new wheel!

    cheers

  157. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by hala514 View Post
    HEY ROVAL JOE - super cool to have you as a resource on this board.

    any chance that specialized has an index of each year's wheelset and the specs on them? Kind of like the bike archive that is up now, but specifically to wheelsets. I am looking at various 142+ Control SL's on the used market, but it has been difficult to tell which years weigh what and when the small changes were made. Same for Control Carbons too I guess, where I am at is trying to decide whether to buy some used older SL's or brand new carbon controls.

    If all this info already exists somewhere, sorry for this post. Couldnt find it though...

    Thanks!
    Hala514- we don't have something put together like that at this time, maybe in the future though? for reference though, Control Carbon's have not changed since they were introduced, so what you see now is what we have offered. Control SL (I assume you are talking 29", right?) was introduced in model year 2011 at 1450g, then for MY2012, the front hub was modified slightly to make the flanges further apart in order to increase stiffness- no other changes. The product remained basically the same otherwise for 2012. then in 2013 we changed from a mix of Revolution and Aerolite spokes to only Revolution (just an Aesthetic change). For 2014, the wheel is completely new: new rims, new front hub, different spoke count, and the weight is 1370g.

  158. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcgb View Post
    Joe
    I hope you can help!

    Bear with me as I am mechanically challenged!

    I have a front wheel that uses a 20mm Maxle I have a front wheel with a Roval hub. there is a thick spacer thingy and a thin one, I have managed to lose the thin one!

    It seems to stops the maxle pinching the bearing as the wheel doesn't turn when i tighten the lever

    Any Idea where I can get another one? My local bike shop says I will need a new wheel!

    cheers
    xcgb- Some photos of the wheel (showing both rim and hub) would help out a lot here. Maybe you can PM me with these and I'll see if I can identify which wheelset you have?

  159. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by haudenlukas1 View Post
    Hey Roval Joe,

    would be great to get your help at my problem.

    I ride a Enduro S Works SL FSR 2010 with Roval Traverse EL wheels and a Future Stock E160TA Fork. The Axle is 20mm.

    Now I bought a Rock Shox Pike RCT3 Solo Air 2014 with a 15mm Axle.

    Is there any fitting kit where I can change my front wheel from 20mm Axle to 15mm Axle so that I can use the Pike?

    Best regards
    haudenlukas1- I'm pretty sure we have a part number for these end caps, give me some time to dig them up and get back to you.

  160. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hala514- we don't have something put together like that at this time, maybe in the future though? for reference though, Control Carbon's have not changed since they were introduced, so what you see now is what we have offered. Control SL (I assume you are talking 29", right?) was introduced in model year 2011 at 1450g, then for MY2012, the front hub was modified slightly to make the flanges further apart in order to increase stiffness- no other changes. The product remained basically the same otherwise for 2012. then in 2013 we changed from a mix of Revolution and Aerolite spokes to only Revolution (just an Aesthetic change). For 2014, the wheel is completely new: new rims, new front hub, different spoke count, and the weight is 1370g.

    Perfect! thanks for the info; I think what I bought is a set of 2012's based on having mixed spokes. (guy i bought them from wasn't sure). They weighed in at 1470 total w/o skewer.

  161. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by haudenlukas1 View Post
    Hey Roval Joe,

    would be great to get your help at my problem.

    I ride a Enduro S Works SL FSR 2010 with Roval Traverse EL wheels and a Future Stock E160TA Fork. The Axle is 20mm.

    Now I bought a Rock Shox Pike RCT3 Solo Air 2014 with a 15mm Axle.

    Is there any fitting kit where I can change my front wheel from 20mm Axle to 15mm Axle so that I can use the Pike?

    Best regards
    Ok, got the PN's you need: S2030049 is the drive side cap, and S2030050 is the non drive cap.

  162. #362
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    Roval Joe,

    Wondering if the MY2009 26" Roval Control SL front hub (typically a white hub, with carbon in the middle?) is convertible to 15mm TA. I believe 2009 was the first year the Roval Control SL E5 set was available....

    Thanks

  163. #363
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    Hi Joe,

    I have a 2012 Specialized 29 comp. I can't keep the rear wheel true. I was looking to upgrade the wheelset - which one?

  164. #364
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    Joe

    I just got both adapters S115900003 & 4 and those are not the adapters that fit my hub. Both adapters the OD is way too small to fit my hub. My one OS28 right (non brake) adapter has a 4cm dust seal vs these both are about 3 cm. My ID is different between sides as well. My right has a similar ID to the adapters you sent and my left ID can fit inside the other cap.

    It really isn't the $20 I am out, but the month it has taken. Dont you have schematics/drawing of each years wheel and hub parts?

    Again 2010 Roval Control El 29er front hub. Hub and rim are black with white stickers and black supercomp spokes. Front right adapter even has 2 flanges, it is very wide cause the bearing is set inside so much. Space inside where spoke heads are so you can move spoke head down enough to change a nipple if needbe I guess.

    Specialized 29"ers: Roval Wheels Tech And Interview

    Rob

  165. #365
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    Name:  LFM01_15mm end cap1.jpg
Views: 1684
Size:  3.7 KBName:  LFM01_15mm end cap2.jpg
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Size:  3.8 KBLFMO6_end_cap_tech_page2.pdfRob,
    I'm sorry for your wasted time, and realize how frustrating it is to get the wrong product. I'm attaching the images of the endcap for what we show in our system as 2010 end caps for Control EL. Please have a look and confirm this is what you received.

    If this is what you received, I am also attaching a schematic for the end caps from the following year (2011), thinking that the model year for the wheel may be incorrect? please have a look at the drawings and let me know if you think these are correct?LFMO6_end_cap_tech_page2.pdf

  166. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigwaves_us View Post
    Hi Joe,

    I have a 2012 Specialized 29 comp. I can't keep the rear wheel true. I was looking to upgrade the wheelset - which one?
    bigwaves_us- a little more info could help me recommend a wheelset for you. Do you have an Epic, Stumpjumper hardtail, Camber, Stumpjumper FSR, or Enduro Comp? Also, maybe you can tell me a little about your riding style, how much you weigh, trail conditions where you ride, etc?

  167. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by dberndt View Post
    Roval Joe,

    Wondering if the MY2009 26" Roval Control SL front hub (typically a white hub, with carbon in the middle?) is convertible to 15mm TA. I believe 2009 was the first year the Roval Control SL E5 set was available....

    Thanks
    dberndt- as my correspondence with JacksDad is proving, our records are not super reliable for earlier wheels. From what I'm seeing in our system, it is showing the end caps that I told JacksDad (S115900003, and S115900004, left/right side) he needed are the same for what you need as well to convert your hub to 15mm thru (even though these are two different hubs). Have a look at the photos I posted in response to him to see if these look like they'd work with your hub?

  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Name:  LFM01_15mm end cap1.jpg
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Size:  3.7 KBName:  LFM01_15mm end cap2.jpg
Views: 1576
Size:  3.8 KBLFMO6_end_cap_tech_page2.pdfRob,
    I'm sorry for your wasted time, and realize how frustrating it is to get the wrong product. I'm attaching the images of the endcap for what we show in our system as 2010 end caps for Control EL. Please have a look and confirm this is what you received.

    If this is what you received, I am also attaching a schematic for the end caps from the following year (2011), thinking that the model year for the wheel may be incorrect? please have a look at the drawings and let me know if you think these are correct?LFMO6_end_cap_tech_page2.pdf
    Joe that pic is what I got, way too small. Off your PDF those are too small as well. I have left as 41mm tall and 35.3 long. 2nd flange is shorter at 36mm; on right I have 31mm tall and 29mm long.

  169. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack'sDad View Post
    Joe that pic is what I got, way too small. Off your PDF those are too small as well. I have left as 41mm tall and 35.3 long. 2nd flange is shorter at 36mm; on right I have 31mm tall and 29mm long.
    Rob,
    ok, based on your info, I was able to find the right end caps. Part numbers are S2030050 and S2030049. The first cap we have in stock (it was used across a couple different hub models), and the second one is out of stock and expected to be available next month. I have our customer service guys looking on return wheels to see if there might be one of these hubs on a returned wheel that they could rob the end cap off of to get you by. This is of course not the answer you were looking for, and I apologize for not being able to help you better. If we come across something, I'll PM you for an address we can ship to.

  170. #370
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    Hi Roval Joe,

    I've got a pair of the Roval Control 29 carbons.

    I'm having play in the front hub (15mm through axle).

    tried another set of end caps, also put the wheel in a different fork, no change.

    Installed another wheel in my fork and there is no play, so it seems to be the Roval front hub.

    Is this a known problem with this hub, and is there a fix?
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  171. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlx john View Post
    Hi Roval Joe,

    I've got a pair of the Roval Control 29 carbons.

    I'm having play in the front hub (15mm through axle).

    tried another set of end caps, also put the wheel in a different fork, no change.

    Installed another wheel in my fork and there is no play, so it seems to be the Roval front hub.

    Is this a known problem with this hub, and is there a fix?
    John- I have heard of this on some of the Control SL's, but not the standard Control Carbon wheels. Can you confirm which you have? On the cases I was aware of, the issue was fixed by having a dealer or our service center replace the bearings.

  172. #372
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    Not the SL's. I have the Roval Control carbon 29 (no hook rims)

    Do you have part numbers or specifications for the bearings?

    thanks
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  173. #373
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    LFM07_hub_tech_page.pdf

    John- above is the tech info for the hub with part numbers and bearing sizes. I would recommend that you have a shop with the correct tool install the bearings. Also, you've probably already done this, but just in case, have you checked the fork axle/QR to make sure it is tightening adequately? Like I mentioned, I had not heard of this problem with these particular wheels, so just want to be sure. thanks.

  174. #374
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    Hey Joe, amazing thread, you have the patience of Job! Props to you and the Big S for doing something like this.

    I've been riding/racing the carbon Rovals since '11 with great results. One set of pure race day SL wheels, and two sets of the Trails for daily use on the xc bike and the squishy bike.

    I just found this thread and wanted to throw out a bit of info to all those asking about 142+ compatibility with 142 frames. In my experience, most 142 frames will accept a 142+ wheel if you simply sand about 1 mm off the cassette lockring. This leaves more than enough lockring (which isn't structural, anyway) and provides enough clearance to allow the wheel to spin freely (I usually shoot for 20 thousandths clearance between the lockring and the rear dropout).

    I've personally done this on Turner and Trek frames for myself and others, and I find it worthwhile to get the stronger triangulation of the 142+ hub design.

    Not to mention that I already owned them.

    Note that if chain rub is the limiting factor, nothing will change that. Stop now!!!!!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  175. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Hey Joe, amazing thread, you have the patience of Job! Props to you and the Big S for doing something like this.

    I've been riding/racing the carbon Rovals since '11 with great results. One set of pure race day SL wheels, and two sets of the Trails for daily use on the xc bike and the squishy bike.

    I just found this thread and wanted to throw out a bit of info to all those asking about 142+ compatibility with 142 frames. In my experience, most 142 frames will accept a 142+ wheel if you simply sand about 1 mm off the cassette lockring. This leaves more than enough lockring (which isn't structural, anyway) and provides enough clearance to allow the wheel to spin freely (I usually shoot for 20 thousandths clearance between the lockring and the rear dropout).

    I've personally done this on Turner and Trek frames for myself and others, and I find it worthwhile to get the stronger triangulation of the 142+ hub design.

    Not to mention that I already owned them.

    Note that if chain rub is the limiting factor, nothing will change that. Stop now!!!!!
    Kosmo- glad you're stoked on the product, thanks for contributing!

  176. #376
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    quick update:

    yes, I did make sure the 15mm skewer was tight (even excessively tightening the skewer would not remove play)

    Replacing the non-drive side bearing solved the issue.

    thanks for your help and this thread Joe.
    2020 SC CC Hightower

  177. #377
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    Hello Roval Joe,

    can you help me please and tell me the part number for the Control Carbon 29 (MY14) end caps for 135 mm QR.

    Thanks a lot

  178. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by terence1 View Post
    Hello Roval Joe,

    can you help me please and tell me the part number for the Control Carbon 29 (MY14) end caps for 135 mm QR.

    Thanks a lot
    Terence1- I'm not totally sure we have a service part number for 135mm, for a few reasons:
    - our AM wheels all come with these end caps
    - the majority of our OE wheels are 142+ which are not compatible with 135

    however, if you need to get a set quickly, this is a standard DT part (PN: HWGXXX0001528S) that should be readily available. When the holiday is over I can check with our customer service guys to see if we carry these also.

  179. #379
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    Hi Roval Joe -

    I have a set of control's which I had fast trak's tubeless mounted to for the last two months (with zero problems - sealed right up). I wanted to switch to something more knobby for the winter. So i moved my fast traks over to my control SL's which also mounted up instantly with no issues.

    Here's the problem: I tried mounting up Maxxis Ignitors on the Control's. But I am getting HUGE leaks through all the spokes and the base of the valve stem. I don't get it - there was zero problems with the 2bliss fast traks. The control's have the brownish 2bliss ready tape on the inside - but i did notice that the control SL's i have have some other blue rim tape on the insides. Also the brown rim tape doesnt go all the way to the edges of the rim.

    What gives???

    I noticed some others on the intertoobs are having similar problems, but i didn't see a resolution. I am thinking it has something to do with needing "wider" rim tape? Maybe the maxxis bead is not as thick so it isn't sitting on the tape whereas the fast traks are?

    Thanks!

  180. #380
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    nevermind... i thought about this some more and decided it was probably the base of the valve stem core leaking, and then this air is just going all around the rim. So i wrapped the base of the valve stem with some teflon tape and it has 90% improved the situation. Hoping the stans will seal up the small leak which is still remaining. We'll see.

  181. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by hala514 View Post
    nevermind... i thought about this some more and decided it was probably the base of the valve stem core leaking, and then this air is just going all around the rim. So i wrapped the base of the valve stem with some teflon tape and it has 90% improved the situation. Hoping the stans will seal up the small leak which is still remaining. We'll see.
    hala514- sorry for the lag. You were right about the seal between the valve stem and rim strip probably being the culprit. Hopefully you were able to get it to seal?

  182. #382
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    nope. can't get it to seal - not a gross leak, but goes flat in about 5 mins. Taken it apart several times, ended up scratching the paint around the locknut tightening it, and finally gave up. Not really sure what to do next, was going to take it to the bike shop to see if they can do anything.

  183. #383
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    I've not had that bad a problem, but I did swap the valve stems for some Stan's ones which are completely round above the seal - the ones that came with the wheels had a rectangular rubber block above the seal and if it twisted the corners would foul on the rim where the profile rises either side of the centre channel, and I didn't want to take a chance that it might make it harder to get a good seal.

    One thing I know people sometimes do if the valve stem leaks is to put silicone sealant around the rubber part on the stem before you fit it to the rim so there's a good bead of it all round the seal, then wait till it sets before you go any further. Might be worth a try.

  184. #384
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    Hala,

    as Corsair said you can try and put a touch of sealant around the rubber part of the valve. What I have used there is just good ol' rubber cement. Before you put the valve in, run a small bead of the stuff around the rubber part of the valve, where you know it is going to make contact with the rim/tape surface. Carefully put it through the hole without smudging, put the nut on it and tighten it up....just finger tight. No need to wrench the valves on, as this causes more deformation and problems.

    The nice thing about the rubber cement is it is easily removed, and it also sets way faster than silicone etc. The main point of it is to just supplement the rubber base gasket on the valve.


    I'm not familiar with the roval rims strips, but my (possibly way off) understanding is they don't adhere to the rim, but rather are air tight and seal between themselves and the tire interface? Is that right Joe?

  185. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by jochribs View Post
    Hala,

    as Corsair said you can try and put a touch of sealant around the rubber part of the valve. What I have used there is just good ol' rubber cement. Before you put the valve in, run a small bead of the stuff around the rubber part of the valve, where you know it is going to make contact with the rim/tape surface. Carefully put it through the hole without smudging, put the nut on it and tighten it up....just finger tight. No need to wrench the valves on, as this causes more deformation and problems.

    The nice thing about the rubber cement is it is easily removed, and it also sets way faster than silicone etc. The main point of it is to just supplement the rubber base gasket on the valve.


    I'm not familiar with the roval rims strips, but my (possibly way off) understanding is they don't adhere to the rim, but rather are air tight and seal between themselves and the tire interface? Is that right Joe?
    jochribs- yeah, the rim strip just seals between the tire/strip, no adhesives. One other possibility (although unlikely) is if the strip was damaged somehow in changing tires. This is something I have not seen, but could be a possibility. We have had some instances where the rim strips were actually installed incorrectly at the factory on the bike (not centered or folded over on themselves), and when the OE tube in installed and inflated, it creates a crease on the strip which will make it almost impossible to seal once you straighten it out and set it up tubeless.

    hala- some good suggestions from Corsair/jochribs, keep us updated. thanks!

  186. #386
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    Joe, I was going to bring that up too. I remember the red ones being snarled like that too while I was at a shop for a bit a couple years ago. I didn't know if the knew printed ones were the same sort of thing. One thing he could try if this is the issue is to slip a round shafted screwdriver or a pen etc, under the tape but resting on top of the rims sidewalls, and run it back and forth under the tape while heating the tape with a blowdryer. It may help to get that crease out if it's there.

  187. #387
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    Hi Joe,
    Can you provide me with the ERD for your new Fatbike rims. I have one coming in soon and I want to lace in a hub that accepts XD/XX1 freehub body since the stock hub does not.

    Thanks for your help,
    Scott

  188. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    Hi Joe,
    Can you provide me with the ERD for your new Fatbike rims. I have one coming in soon and I want to lace in a hub that accepts XD/XX1 freehub body since the stock hub does not.

    Thanks for your help,
    Scott
    Hi Scott- I'm not involved with these wheels, but was able to get some info from the team that develops our Fat Bikes. Attached is info on the wheel for you, but also note that Novotech actually does offer an 11spd freehub body for this hub. It is not something that we carry, but you could contact the distributor from the link below. It might be easier than rebuilding a wheel?
    DISTRIBUTORS - Novatec

    0000037487_R1.pdf

  189. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Hi Scott- I'm not involved with these wheels, but was able to get some info from the team that develops our Fat Bikes. Attached is info on the wheel for you, but also note that Novotech actually does offer an 11spd freehub body for this hub. It is not something that we carry, but you could contact the distributor from the link below. It might be easier than rebuilding a wheel?
    DISTRIBUTORS - Novatec

    0000037487_R1.pdf
    That's great news.
    Thanks

  190. #390
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    Hey joe can the 142+ hub be converted to a regular 142 on the roval traverse wheelsets.thanks

  191. #391
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    Hi Roval Joe - curious to know if there is a significant handling advantage with carbon wheels over aluminum when running low tire pressures on high volume tires? I run 16 psi on a Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front tire and mid-twenties psi on Specialized Purgatory 2.2 rear on ZTR ARCH EX rims on a Niner Jet 9 RDO used for trail riding in SF Bay Area and Tahoe. Aside from weight advantage of the carbon rims, would there be a noticeable handling advantage running a large volume tire at low pressure or does all that soft rubber minimize the difference in stiffness between carbon and aluminum. Thanks.

  192. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by 65mtn View Post
    Hey joe can the 142+ hub be converted to a regular 142 on the roval traverse wheelsets.thanks
    65mtn- sorry for my lag in response- I was out for the holidays. you cannot convert a 142+ hub to standard 142mm.

  193. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Hi Roval Joe - curious to know if there is a significant handling advantage with carbon wheels over aluminum when running low tire pressures on high volume tires? I run 16 psi on a Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front tire and mid-twenties psi on Specialized Purgatory 2.2 rear on ZTR ARCH EX rims on a Niner Jet 9 RDO used for trail riding in SF Bay Area and Tahoe. Aside from weight advantage of the carbon rims, would there be a noticeable handling advantage running a large volume tire at low pressure or does all that soft rubber minimize the difference in stiffness between carbon and aluminum. Thanks.
    mike_mtn: also sorry for the lag in response, thanks for being patient. The biggest notice on carbon wheels is how light and snappy they feel compared to a similar dimension alloy rim. If you plan on using the same tires you running now on some carbon rims, you would still feel that difference. Since the wheels are lighter, they will spin up (accelerate) faster, and you'll probably also notice that things like quick turning changes will be a bit easier. I must say, 16psi is pretty low- I assume you are not having any issues with your front tire squirming on you in turns now? How about impact damage to the rim- any dings/dents? for the SF area, we don't have too many rocks (at least in the south bay), but in Tahoe there are certainly some rocks to hit, so I'm just curious. thanks!

  194. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    65mtn- sorry for my lag in response- I was out for the holidays. you cannot convert a 142+ hub to standard 142mm.
    But in many, many cases it will work in a 142 frame. Width dimension is the same for both, the cassette on the + just sits ~2mm to the outboard side. Many bikes are fine with this, and most of those that are not WILL work if you simply sand/machine about 1 mm off of the cassette lockring.

    But make sure the chain doesn't hit the seatstay. That is an issue that really cannot easily be remedied.
    Whining is not a strategy.

  195. #395
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    control 29sl 135 to 142

    Roval joe, I have the 2011 or 2012 control sl 29 carbon wheels.
    Am looking to swap the rr from 135qr to 142x12 since I am getting
    a new sworks stumpy frame. Do I just use the dt swiss part HWYXXX0002216S conversion kit or is there a different one I need? Also how can I tell if these are the 2011 or 2012 wheels, is there a difference?

    Thanks

  196. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    mike_mtn: also sorry for the lag in response, thanks for being patient. The biggest notice on carbon wheels is how light and snappy they feel compared to a similar dimension alloy rim. If you plan on using the same tires you running now on some carbon rims, you would still feel that difference. Since the wheels are lighter, they will spin up (accelerate) faster, and you'll probably also notice that things like quick turning changes will be a bit easier. I must say, 16psi is pretty low- I assume you are not having any issues with your front tire squirming on you in turns now? How about impact damage to the rim- any dings/dents? for the SF area, we don't have too many rocks (at least in the south bay), but in Tahoe there are certainly some rocks to hit, so I'm just curious. thanks!
    Hi Joe: thank you for the information, very helpful. Figured that carbon wheels would spin up quicker with the same tires and you answered my question on the handling advantage with the quick turning changes being a bit easier. Regarding your questions about the Maxxis Ardent EXO 29x2.4 front tire run at 16 psi having any tire squirming or rim dings/dents - no problems over the last year. I ride this bike 2-4 days a week. When I first mounted the front tire I started with psi in the mid-twenties and kept dropping it until I found the optimum handling pressure at 16 psi. I weigh 160 w/o gear. The tire needs to be leaned over pretty aggressively in corners to engage the side knobs. I can hear my tires and rims making contact with rocks, especially in Tahoe, and see some scrapes on both the rim and tire but no tire squirming or rim dings/dents yet. No flats yet either, knock on wood. Can the Roval Control 29 Carbon and the Control SL 29 wheelsets handle the 16 psi? Thanks again.

  197. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by peabody View Post
    Roval joe, I have the 2011 or 2012 control sl 29 carbon wheels.
    Am looking to swap the rr from 135qr to 142x12 since I am getting
    a new sworks stumpy frame. Do I just use the dt swiss part HWYXXX0002216S conversion kit or is there a different one I need? Also how can I tell if these are the 2011 or 2012 wheels, is there a difference?

    Thanks
    Peabody- the DT part number you show should be the correct one, I cross referenced it on the DT website. Since the hub is based of the 240 design, These end caps will work fine. From my records, 2012 was the first year we did these wheels in 29", so I'm guessing you probably have 2012?

  198. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike_mtn View Post
    Hi Joe: thank you for the information, very helpful. Figured that carbon wheels would spin up quicker with the same tires and you answered my question on the handling advantage with the quick turning changes being a bit easier. Regarding your questions about the Maxxis Ardent EXO 29x2.4 front tire run at 16 psi having any tire squirming or rim dings/dents - no problems over the last year. I ride this bike 2-4 days a week. When I first mounted the front tire I started with psi in the mid-twenties and kept dropping it until I found the optimum handling pressure at 16 psi. I weigh 160 w/o gear. The tire needs to be leaned over pretty aggressively in corners to engage the side knobs. I can hear my tires and rims making contact with rocks, especially in Tahoe, and see some scrapes on both the rim and tire but no tire squirming or rim dings/dents yet. No flats yet either, knock on wood. Can the Roval Control 29 Carbon and the Control SL 29 wheelsets handle the 16 psi? Thanks again.
    Mike_mtn: thanks for the info! If you are not getting any flats, and your Arch rims are not getting dented up from rock impacts, then you won't have any problem with the Control 29 Carbon wheels. Alloy rims will dent before a carbon rim cracks, so that's why I was asking. The Control 29's are more resistant to impact damage also than the Control Trail SL's because of the way the rim is manufactured, and since they are a better deal price wise, I'd suggest getting those. They are also 1mm wider(22mm inner width) than the Trail SL's, so that will help shoulder that large 2.4 tire you have on the front.

  199. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roval Joe View Post
    Peabody- the DT part number you show should be the correct one, I cross referenced it on the DT website. Since the hub is based of the 240 design, These end caps will work fine. From my records, 2012 was the first year we did these wheels in 29", so I'm guessing you probably have 2012?

    They came on 2011 sworks bikes, and a spoke chart you listed somewhere in this thread stated 2011 was the first year. Mine have the mixture of black revos and red aerolites which were 2011/2012....the difference was something was changed on the
    front hub causing a change in spoke lengths between the years. I want to get rid of the red aerolites and just have all black spokes which is the reason I'm asking how to identify between the 2 yrs.

  200. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by peabody View Post
    They came on 2011 sworks bikes, and a spoke chart you listed somewhere in this thread stated 2011 was the first year. Mine have the mixture of black revos and red aerolites which were 2011/2012....the difference was something was changed on the
    front hub causing a change in spoke lengths between the years. I want to get rid of the red aerolites and just have all black spokes which is the reason I'm asking how to identify between the 2 yrs.
    OK, you are right. I was referencing bills of materials, and the dates on those must be wrong. From looking at bike archive images, the 11/12's were the same. In '13, the hub changed in that we pushed the non disc side spoke flange out more to gain extra stiffness. This is why the spoke length changed, and that year we went to all black spokes, Revolutions only.

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