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  1. #1
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    Probably too general a question. 27.5" wheelset?

    Long story short: don't have the money to go all-in for a new mtn bike, so upgrading my son's bike here and there as things break. The wheels (moreso the rear than front) could be upgraded. The rim is fine and has only needed minor truing once (spokes loosened up), but I think the hub setup is sub-par and failing (he's snapped one rear axle in the 900 miles he has put on the bike and it sounds kind of noisy and feels not smooth).

    Does it make sense to go with just a new hub with cassette (if I'm using the right name), or get a whole setup? He currently has Giant brand alloy rims with Giant Sport Tracker hubs; the cassette is a Shimano Tourney 7 speed.

    What are the price ranges and brands I should be looking in for either option, when dealing with a non-pro rider (translated: a rider who doesn't need a $600 carbon rim)?
    Advertising tells me nothing; I'd rather hear it from the voice of experience.

  2. #2
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    Probably cheaper to just get a new rear wheel.
    Remove just remove cassette over to new wheel.
    Picked up a Sun Ringle Inferno on a Deore hub for less than $100 shipped on eBay.
    To give you an idea, I'm 160lb butt neeked and not at all a smooth rider. It's been working great.

  3. #3
    tire to rim ratio tester
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    WTB 27.5 i25 wheelset $182 on Amazon.com
    Wheel Masters Whl Pr 27.5 584X25 Wtb Sx25 Bk 32 Shi M525 8-10Scas 6B Qr Bk 135Mm Dti2.0Bk


    You don't necessarily need a new front wheel; the freewheel rear axle breaking is unfortunately common, and you can get a cassette-based rear wheel for under $100:

    Wheel Master 27.5" Alloy Mountain Disc Double Wall $60

    This has a Weinmann rim, very common, I have them, they are fine for a lower-end bike.

    BTW you don't have to buy another 7-speed cassette and transfer it over; an 8-speed cassette will work fine, you just have 7-speeds out of eight (you'd use the first 7 gears). Or spend $17 and get an 8-speed shifter.

  4. #4
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    Unfortunately it's tough to give advice on this one. The quality of the wheel build is a big chunk of the cost of the wheel at the low end, and not all builds are equal. So cheap wheels are cheap parts with a cheap build. Maybe you'll get lucky, maybe not. You'll likely need new spokes if you replace either the hub or rim, and that's at least 30$. Also, you will almost certainly need to replace the cassette/freehub if you change the hub.



    You said you've replaced an axle and that the bearings are noisy and rough. My guess is that the axle nuts have slipped and that's the source of your problem. Be sure to crank the QR fairly snug- a loose QR can lead to broken axles and slipping nuts.

    There's not a whole lot to gain by replacing the front wheel.
    Quote Originally Posted by richj8990 View Post

    BTW you don't have to buy another 7-speed cassette and transfer it over; an 8-speed cassette will work fine, you just have 7-speeds out of eight (you'd use the first 7 gears). Or spend $17 and get an 8-speed shifter.
    It's very unlikely he has a Tourney cassette. They exist, but very rare- almost all tourney builds have a freehub. Also, you're assuming the hub is spaced for 8sp and there's a spacer he can remove.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

  5. #5
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    I would suggest checking classifieds here or on Pinkbike. Lots of people upgrade their wheels on new b8kes and the takeoffs are pretty nice. I bought a nice set for $200

  6. #6
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    Thank you for the replies, folks. I'll try and put all the info together to make a wise decision. I saw a few brands mentioned; any others I should pay attention to?

    It doesn't affect my purchase obviously, but the mfgr lists this for the rear wheel: Cassette - Shimano Tourney 14x34, 7-speed freewheel

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by robbnj View Post
    It doesn't affect my purchase obviously, but the mfgr lists this for the rear wheel: Cassette - Shimano Tourney 14x34, 7-speed freewheel

    It's a freewheel hub and not a freehub. Very low end, works fine if it's adjusted correctly. The cup and cone bearing system you find on these hubs (almost all cheaper hubs) is very easy to adjust, but they can come out of adjustment. You're is almost certainly out of adjustment. This is an easy fix, and this doesn't sound like an appropriate bike for throwing money at.

    The difference is where the freewheeling mechanism is- in the hub or in the cogs.

    If you buy a new wheel you will need to buy a new cassette as well, and get some spacers so you can mount a 7sp cassette on a more modern freehub. You will also most likely need to adjust the rear derailleur.
    "Things that are complex are not useful, Things that are useful are simple."
    Mikhail Kalashnikov

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