My Chris King driveshell- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    My Chris King driveshell

    Gonna try to get a used replacement to hold me over until I build a new wheel. The replacement cost is ridiculous, especially if I want to switch to XD (can get a new hub for $100 more). This doesn't skip but I felt the hub get stuck in drive a few times on my last ride. Thought it was just the cold and needed to be cleaned, Now I know the teeth are getting stuck on the drive ring. This hub is a little over 5 years old and has been serviced 9 times with Kings lube (I write reminders on my work bench. Usually do it in feb and august/sept).

    Get the steel freehub kiddies! It's apparently not just for preventing cassette gouges. Next hub will be a Hadley. Turning in my Chris King fluffer card.

    My Chris King driveshell-img_20170121_150305.jpg

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Turning in my Chris King fluffer card.
    That made me laugh!
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  3. #3
    West Chester, PA
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    Thanks to the miracle (lol) of facebook I found a used one locally in like new condition for $50. When I first noticed this and didn't know pricing I was a little gung ho about the opportunity to switch to XD (I think it's going to stick around long term). If I get the xd driver from King, I'd be into the hub for over $600. If my next frame is boost (90% chance), it's just an expensive paperweight again.

  4. #4
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    I may have a xd driver that I would be willing to swap for a shimano driver. i'll know more when I get my wheels in.

  5. #5
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    I don't like seeing this! If it was a common issue with King hubs I'd think we'd see it more often though. I wonder if something is slightly out of spec with the ring drive?

    I PM'd you. I have an XD driver that I can sell.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by westeast View Post
    I don't like seeing this! If it was a common issue with King hubs I'd think we'd see it more often though. I wonder if something is slightly out of spec with the ring drive?
    I could only find one photo of similar wear on the entire internet. It was from a foreign forum. Everybody that responded to the guy said "I've never seen that". Then someone claimed King sent him a free steel driveshell after he complained about gouges from his cassette (BS).

    Kings response - "Yep, that looks about right for the age of the hub. You might want to consider buying a steel one next time. Bye"

    The guy who swapped my bearings for me - he has owned his own shop for about 20 years - "Oh yeah, I see that all the time. I used to have a box of worn ones to show people. I always recommend the steel one."

  7. #7
    West Chester, PA
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    There's nothing wrong with the ring drive - those parts are steel. After replacing the shell with the barely used one I got, the hub is tight as a drum again. Feels like instant engagement.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    I could only find one photo of similar wear on the entire internet. It was from a foreign forum. Everybody that responded to the guy said "I've never seen that". Then someone claimed King sent him a free steel driveshell after he complained about gouges from his cassette (BS).

    Kings response - "Yep, that looks about right for the age of the hub. You might want to consider buying a steel one next time. Bye"

    The guy who swapped my bearings for me - he has owned his own shop for about 20 years - "Oh yeah, I see that all the time. I used to have a box of worn ones to show people. I always recommend the steel one."
    This is disappointing to learn. Thanks for the info.

  9. #9
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    You're paying too much for you King products. I paid around $500 for a set of CK hubs
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    I could only find one photo of similar wear on the entire internet. It was from a foreign forum. Everybody that responded to the guy said "I've never seen that". Then someone claimed King sent him a free steel driveshell after he complained about gouges from his cassette (BS).

    Kings response - "Yep, that looks about right for the age of the hub. You might want to consider buying a steel one next time. Bye"

    The guy who swapped my bearings for me - he has owned his own shop for about 20 years - "Oh yeah, I see that all the time. I used to have a box of worn ones to show people. I always recommend the steel one."
    A lot depends on whom you talk to in tech support (anywhere- not just CK).

    They sent me a replacement drive shell for an issue long ago (not bunched/munched drive shell).

    I offered to kick in some $$$'s to get a steel drive shell. The tech I spoke with convinced me not to get a steel one... so emphatically that he said if the replacement aluminum one failed, he'd ship me a steel one. The replacement aluminum shell is ~4 year old now and still going strong.
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  11. #11
    West Chester, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    You're paying too much for you King products. I paid around $500 for a set of CK hubs
    Who are you talking to?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by westeast View Post
    This is disappointing to learn. Thanks for the info.
    Why is it disappointing that a part worn out in five years of usage? I use King hubs exclusively because of their durability and serviceability. Sure Kings response might be a little harsh if that quote is correct. I would escalate that to the service manager. But the expectation that the OP get something for free because it wore out after five years of usage is ridiculous. If would be totally cool if King would have offered his a pro deal on the stainless steel version but can't always expect that.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker4life View Post
    Why is it disappointing that a part worn out in five years of usage?
    Because they are supposed to be extremely long-lived hubs that outlast your bike/wheels and are transferred to multiple builds? Pretty sure that's a big factor in why people pay the premium for them. If you do some searches, you'll find lots of people saying how great they are over spans of years. Unfortunately, King also has a reputation of blaming the end user for flaws in their products.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker4life View Post
    Why is it disappointing that a part worn out in five years of usage?
    King warranty the hub for five years and make a huge song and dance about the hub's lifespan. I have one that will soon tick over 25'000 miles of riding in eleven years. If that happened to mine in five years (and a lot less miles) I'd have been disappointed too.

    Perhaps the secret is to service them as little as possible, what I don't know won't hurt me right?

  15. #15
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    Here mine after 8 years with zero maintenance, I know, I know.

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  16. #16
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    I replace the aluminum driveshell last year on my CK rear hub with over fifteen years of service and it was still engaging like it was new and did not look like that. I did used Phil tenacious oil instead of CK Ringlube when I did the maintenance on it.
    If I disagree with you, it's because you are wrong.

  17. #17
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    A funny thing - when I went out for my first ride with the new freehub it was so loud again. Just surprised.

  18. #18
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    Yeah, the quietness lasts for a ride or two, depending on how much lube is in it I guess. My R45s did the same thing. Fortunately, I like the buzzing sound. It's the loud clicking I9 and Hope sounds that bug me.

    TwoTone- where are you getting good deals on CK hubs? Mind PM-ing me if you have a place? I'm in need of a new wheel build.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by sundowner View Post
    I replace the aluminum driveshell last year on my CK rear hub with over fifteen years of service and it was still engaging like it was new and did not look like that. I did used Phil tenacious oil instead of CK Ringlube when I did the maintenance on it.
    I see the key ingredient to your success if that it WAS serviced and maintained.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    Gonna try to get a used replacement to hold me over until I build a new wheel. The replacement cost is ridiculous, especially if I want to switch to XD (can get a new hub for $100 more). This doesn't skip but I felt the hub get stuck in drive a few times on my last ride. Thought it was just the cold and needed to be cleaned, Now I know the teeth are getting stuck on the drive ring. This hub is a little over 5 years old and has been serviced 9 times with Kings lube (I write reminders on my work bench. Usually do it in feb and august/sept).

    Get the steel freehub kiddies! It's apparently not just for preventing cassette gouges. Next hub will be a Hadley. Turning in my Chris King fluffer card.


    I have been riding Stainless since 2012 on my Mountain Bike and am trying to choose between Stainless and Aluminum for my Carbon Frame road bike. My mountain bike switch was done because my cogs were eating into the aluminum driveshell and it became very difficult to remove the cogs to service the hub. Was using a Dura ace rear hub on my road bike until the freehub failed at 35,000 miles. So I found a new Chris King Classic rear and front hub and will be lacing them up next week. Looked at the R45 hubs but there is no stainless steel driveshell option.

    The stainless driveshells are now rare. I had to find the one in the picture (right side) in Singapore. I can see in both pictures of the aluminum shells in this thread that each had a bad experience with the Drive Ring.

    Weight difference is significant when holding each in the hand and my Carbon frame, made in the USA, weighs only a few pounds...

    Last edited by RCS1300; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:06 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
    I have been riding Stainless since 2012 on my Mountain Bike and am trying to choose between Stainless and Aluminum for my Carbon Frame road bike. My mountain bike switch was done because my cogs were eating into the aluminum driveshell and it became very difficult to remove the cogs to service the hub.

    The stainless driveshells are now rare. I had to find the one in the picture in Singapore. I can see in both pictures of the aluminum shells in this thread that each had a bad experience with the Drive Ring.

    Weight difference is significant when holding each in the hand and my Carbon frame, made in the USA, weighs only a few pounds...

    All of mine are aluminum (two geared that are 11+ years old and one single speed) other than one XD (I am almost 200 lb rider who rides MTB's and gravel bike in all conditions- snow, muddy races, lots of water crossings on trails, gravel, ...).

    They've been trouble free other than one that was already chunked up by the previous owner which eventually had to be replaced (after filing the gouges was no longer effective).
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by edubfromktown View Post
    All of mine are aluminum (two geared that are 11+ years old and one single speed) other than one XD (I am almost 200 lb rider who rides MTB's and gravel bike in all conditions- snow, muddy races, lots of water crossings on trails, gravel, ...).

    They've been trouble free other than one that was already chunked up by the previous owner which eventually had to be replaced (after filing the gouges was no longer effective).
    I am the same type of rider, ride year round with studded tires, and ride a little over 10,000 miles/year between my road and mountain bikes.

    Over time, I have accumulated two extra aluminum drive shells (one new, one used) and one stainless steel drive shell. What I may do is take the used aluminum one and ride it for 3,000 miles and then take a look see at the wear on the gears and splines. The other option is to dust off both aluminum driveshells and sell them on ebay.

  23. #23
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    For reference, below are three photos, February 2015, of the wear on my aluminum drive shell off of my mountain bike Chris King rear ISO hub. The photos include the additional failure of a split in the drive shell from the cassette lock ring. I probably ran that drive shell for 6 seasons or about 24,000 miles. The split and spline grooves are what made me go to a Stainless Steel drive shell for my mountain bike.





    Last edited by RCS1300; 2 Weeks Ago at 06:42 AM. Reason: Clarity

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