Minion DHR2 as front tire?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Minion DHR2 as front tire?

    Is the minion DHR2 suitable as front tire?

  2. #2
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    I run it as a 2.6 or 2.8 on the front. Pretty decent for me.
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    Yeah (this comes up a lot do a search). Some DH racers run it up front. Compared to the DHF it has better braking, slightly faster rolling, and less of a transition zone between the center and side knobs.

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    On the trailbike, Yes, I do - a 2.4 with a Dissector in the rear.
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    Also, there's some bikes (certain Santa Cruz models) that come stock with DHR2's front and rear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mykel View Post
    On the trailbike, Yes, I do - a 2.4 with a Dissector in the rear.
    Same combo here but my DHR is a little modded.

  7. #7
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    there's lots of great info about this.

    Enter this search string into google

    site:forums.mtbr.com DHR2 front

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Compared to the DHF it has better braking, slightly faster rolling, and less of a transition zone between the center and side knobs.
    Agreed with everything but faster rolling. DHF is definitely the faster tire. But it's a front tire, so who cares?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  9. #9
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    Picard, only you can determine if a certain tire is right for you. Myself, I donít care for the DHR2 as a front or rear tire.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Same combo here but my DHR is a little modded.
    Yup, mine is trimmed as well.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykel View Post
    Yup, mine is trimmed as well.
    why did you trimmed it?

  12. #12
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    Square casing profile makes the DHR II a sketchy tire as front.... especially on loose-over-hardpack. I have seen washout occur so fast, you are still holding bars....when you go down.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cayenne_Pepa View Post
    Square casing profile makes the DHR II a sketchy tire as front.... especially on loose-over-hardpack. I have seen washout occur so fast, you are still holding bars....when you go down.
    I've experienced this firsthand... this is WHY you trim it Picard. If you don't, you might as well just run a DHF and save some skin.

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    why did you trimmed it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cayenne_Pepa View Post
    Square casing profile makes the DHR II a sketchy tire as front.... especially on loose-over-hardpack. I have seen washout occur so fast, you are still holding bars....when you go down.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    I've experienced this firsthand... this is WHY you trim it Picard. If you don't, you might as well just run a DHF and save some skin.

    Have FUN!

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    Trimming opens up the side channel. This allows the side knobs to really bite. They are actually a bit bigger than the DHF, and a trimmed DHR2 will hold its own or even out corner a DHF while providing better braking. Trimming also takes away the sketch in moderate angle loose over corners, as it removes the ramping effect the very outer edge of the block provides. This lifting action takes some of the pressure off of the outer block, and a sliding you will go especially if you're in the marbles.

    For trimming you only trim the one set of wide horizontally siped braking blocks, and only a small amount. You want to bring them in line or just slightly wider than the other blocks, but be careful not too take too much, there is a sweet spot. Only really applicable to the front IMO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    why did you trimmed it?

    Because if you don't, your bike will explode and you'll die a horrible death from putting a rear tire on the front.

  16. #16
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    The DHR2 isn't an especially square tire. Lots of racers run them in the front without trimming.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    The DHR2 isn't an especially square tire.
    Agreed. My 2.4WT is decently round, even on an i32mm rim
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    The DHR2 isn't an especially square tire. Lots of racers run them in the front without trimming.
    You're missing the point... it's not the overall profile. The larger horizontal center knobs on the DHR2 flatten out the center tread more and this is exactly why the DHR2 rolls better than the DHF. It's also why it washes out on loose over hard when really pushed as well as on wet roots and rocks. On hardpack knock yourself out. Anything else... not so much. Apparently the tire trimming phobia is real.

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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykel View Post
    Only really applicable to the front IMO.
    Actually the rear DHR2 will wash just as fast on wet roots and rocks. Another forum member mentioned he and his buddies cut a vertical sipe in the center of the horizontal knobs and it worked much better in the wet which I don't doubt. Gonna try it on mine...

    Have FUN!

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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Actually the rear DHR2 will wash just as fast on wet roots and rocks. Another forum member mentioned he and his buddies cut a vertical sipe in the center of the horizontal knobs and it worked much better in the wet which I don't doubt. Gonna try it on mine...

    Have FUN!

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    I don't like the trim out back, I prefer the braking bite over the slightly better carving.
    Have not tried siping the block, but have thought about it a few times.

    And yes, I really don't know why people are so scared to do a little trimming or siping. If you don't like the tire, instead of binning it, think about what you don't' like, and if it can be helped with a bit of cutting.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cayenne_Pepa View Post
    Square casing profile makes the DHR II a sketchy tire as front.... especially on loose-over-hardpack. I have seen washout occur so fast, you are still holding bars....when you go down.

    OK what exactly do you call 1/4 inch hard crust over 1/4 inch loose over hardpack? You know that grainy stuff that looks copper/maybe pinkish, that kind of sandy stuff that 'looks' solid, and then a whole 1-2 square foot section slides off the top when you ride over it down a descent? That is the worst. Every time I see that color of grain I slow way down. I noticed it's often on the inland side of a hill/mountain, as in the Eastern side of a mountain on the West Coast. I guess after it rains the grainy sand just clumps up but it's very fragile and thin. Is a DHF the best someone can do on that surface?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    You're missing the point... it's not the overall profile. The larger horizontal center knobs on the DHR2 flatten out the center tread more and this is exactly why the DHR2 rolls better than the DHF. It's also why it washes out on loose over hard when really pushed as well as on wet roots and rocks. On hardpack knock yourself out. Anything else... not so much. Apparently the tire trimming phobia is real.

    Have FUN!

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    OK but on hardpack, there are about 100 other tires that would roll faster, correct? The knobs on a DHRII are still much larger than average, so hardpack, really? I love knobby tires, but hardpack? Maybe you mean a relatively skinnier front tire like a 2.3 or 2.4?
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cayenne_Pepa View Post
    Square casing profile makes the DHR II a sketchy tire as front.... especially on loose-over-hardpack. I have seen washout occur so fast, you are still holding bars....when you go down.
    Thought it was me. Well it might of been my fault. But I continue to have PTSD from a fast wipeout in AZ loose over hard. As a front in the east I loved it.


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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Also, there's some bikes (certain Santa Cruz models) that come stock with DHR2's front and rear.
    Yep, I am rolling with 2.4 DHR2s on my SC and the DHR2 is working better than expected up front IMO. Getting the pressure low definitely helps make the tire work better.

    If my memory is correct some people have said the DHF may be better for those who can lean the tire over aggressively while the dhr2 may actually be better at intermediate leaning like when riding a flow trail, for example. It would be interesting to see if any others agree here.

    With that being said, although the dhr2 is okay as a front tire, the extra volume of a 2.5 dhf over the 2.4 dhr2 would probably make me faster downhill and the 2.4 dhr 3C front and rear combo won't win "quickest rolling tire" tests. But on the downs and really most trail riding the dhr2 is pretty good!

    (No i've never trimmed my knobs so I am riding them as from the factory. Also word of warning the 3C version wears very fast on the rear! It seems to have good longevity upfront though).

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    Siping the dhr2.

    By vertical you mean in the direction of the tire travel?
    Ie perpendicular to the axle?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rod9301 View Post
    Siping the dhr2.

    By vertical you mean in the direction of the tire travel?
    Ie perpendicular to the axle?

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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    You're missing the point... it's not the overall profile.
    That's because Cayenne-Peppa explicitly said square casing profile. Of course I missed the point.

    Yeah the DHR2 can slide sideways pretty easily when you're on the center knobs.

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    Plenty of people fast people run this tire without cutting or trimming it. Common misconception among keyboard racers is that you have to do it on order for the tire work. I mean folks like Gwin, Iles, Minnaar,Vergier, Bruni, all cant be wrong. There are tons of picture of them at World Cup tracks running them un-cut. I am just too lazy to go dig them up. In fact I have never see a fast pro running them with a cut out channel.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrDon View Post
    But I continue to have PTSD from a fast wipeout in AZ loose over hard.
    It's a 5-year old article, but I followed PinkBike's recommendation of HR2's for the gravely/sandy loose over concrete hard that is present in the foothills around Albuquerque. I'm running a 2.5WT HR2 up front on my hardtail and have found I really like it on the super loose atop super hard conditions that I've ridden in Arizona and New Mexico.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  30. #30
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    Big bike - no trim.
    Trailbike - trim.

    The riding and conditions are not the same, and last time I checked I was far from Pro and that it does work for me and what I ride and the lean angles I encounter. Don't knock it until you have tried it in my conditions and speed.

    YOUR mileage may vary, and this opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it, kinda like what yours is worth.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cayenne_Pepa View Post
    Square casing profile makes the DHR II a sketchy tire as front.... especially on loose-over-hardpack. I have seen washout occur so fast, you are still holding bars....when you go down.
    On what size? Never had it happen on the 2.6 or 2.8, but I can see it on the 2.4. I never liked it on the 2.4.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    It's a 5-year old article, but I followed PinkBike's recommendation of HR2's for the gravely/sandy loose over concrete hard that is present in the foothills around Albuquerque. I'm running a 2.5WT HR2 up front on my hardtail and have found I really like it on the super loose atop super hard conditions that I've ridden in Arizona and New Mexico.
    Interesting. When the Switchblade was released it came with 2.3 HR2s.


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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod9301 View Post
    Siping the dhr2.

    By vertical you mean in the direction of the tire travel?
    Ie perpendicular to the axle?

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    Correct; they are already siped horizontally. That would theoretically give it some bite side-to-side whereas it acts like a double bladed skate the way it is stock.

    Have FUN!

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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Plenty of people fast people run this tire without cutting or trimming it. Common misconception among keyboard racers is that you have to do it on order for the tire work. I mean folks like Gwin, Iles, Minnaar,Vergier, Bruni, all cant be wrong. There are tons of picture of them at World Cup tracks running them un-cut. I am just too lazy to go dig them up. In fact I have never see a fast pro running them with a cut out channel.
    Yeah and they're all racing on standard rubber compound tires available to the public too riiight? If you sipe those knobs with a razor you would never notice from a track picture. Almost all race teams are siping based on track conditions and not just the DHR2.

    Have FUN!

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrDon View Post
    Thought it was me. Well it might of been my fault. But I continue to have PTSD from a fast wipeout in AZ loose over hard. As a front in the east I loved it.


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    I had the same on loose over hard, lost the front so fast I went down shoulder first still gripping the bars. Collarbone in 5 pieces...

    Went back to DHF, wonít be going back.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Yeah and they're all racing on standard rubber compound tires available to the public too riiight? If you sipe those knobs with a razor you would never notice from a track picture. Almost all race teams are siping based on track conditions and not just the DHR2.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Your probably right, each racer has his own special compound that they get made just for them from a tire company that the MTB section is about 5% of their profit each year just like F1. Then they have guys sit around all day to put a special cut on each tire for the riders that cannot be detected on TV. Then they spent countless hours perfecting these cuts and compounds for each rock type and dampness level and log them in a secret vault. But some guy on the internet says " this works better" is not the advice taken by the riders, they do all their compound mixing and cutting in a secret lab in Area 51, cause it is a grand conspiracy riiight? All to pay these guys to ride bikes and make less money each year than a half assed ambulance chasing lawyer in the states. A worthy investment for a company to do all this work for a racer.

    All that being said as I have watched the Yeti Factory team walk up the Maxxis Van and grab a bunch of tires in normal packaging off the shelf and walk back to the pits and put them on Richie Rudes and Shawn Neers bike before a race and give then ones that they just used for a couple days of practice to a highschool MTB team for free. Hopefully they do not discover the secret compounds and next level sipes they have made. We love our bikes, we love all bikes and forms of racing them.

    But lets not kid ourselves and think this is some F1 race team bringing in 100 million dollars a season just be able to have a team and the tech of the race cars and testing is above what they are using to go to space. Its bike racing, about 1% of the racers make enough money and have enough money invested in them to make a real living out of a contract. They mostly live like college students and have quick burst of greatness and then are forgotten about. So the thought of the "special sauce" being put into their tires to make them amazing balls that we cant buy is a bit over the top.

    When they have all this access to special stuff and them they just put a foam tire insert underneath so they will hopefully hold longer because the company does not want to invest into creating a better tire for the whole market let alone the uber high level racers. I will agree that some racers like a special sipe to make their tire better on occasion. But to think that all these teams running a DHR2 on the front of their bikes have some secret compound and some special sipe for us not to able to detect and that is the only reason they dont follow some random guy on Blister.com advice to make a tire workable is just silly. There is nothing wrong if you want to cut your tire and "make it better" that is fine. There is zero evidence to support that it works better or that it does not, to each their own. Just like there is zero evidence that says you cant run it uncut. Telling people they need to cut a tire to make it work and there are plenty of examples of people that do not cut it is dumb. If the only reason you can give is some Ancient Aliens level of explanation on why they are not following kidwoos amazing knowledge of tires while they have access to the engineers and the factory then you might just be stating your own bias and ideas as facts even when they are not. I have ran it both ways, I am slow and fat, I could not tell a difference that was worth my time to cut it. When I did drift and feel like I was going to crash it is because I was riding way faster into a corner than I normally would because I was trying to push a tire. Turning a DHR2 into a Highroller2 feeling tire is not what everyone is after. It works just fine without being cut.

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    Re: Minion DHR2 as front tire? Your Message

    Quote Originally Posted by Picard View Post
    Is the minion DHR2 suitable as front tire?
    I love the DHR2 as a front tire. I had tried the DHF 2.5 but found the DHR2 2.4 to be much funner and way more maneuverable, with plenty of traction, particularly cornering traction. I've never had a problem with washouts others are reporting.

  38. #38
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    Sorry I got you all riled up hitechredneck but I'm not some clueless yahoo. I sell 90% of the additives used in rubber compounding and all the major players buy from us from Formula 1 to MTB. It's just not that difficult to "tweak" rubber compound formulas. Even varying durometers slightly can make big differences. All of the major MTB tire makers work with pro athletes on their development. Here's a statement from Goodyear on their new tires: "Goodyear worked closely with unnamed World Cup DH athletes and freeride legend Geoff Gulevich to develop the tires. While the company utilized input from pro athletes, they have refrained from sponsoring any pro teams until their full tire line up is released in the coming year or so. That said, their starting line up of tires is already impressive."
    It is what it is... I don't really care what riders do or don't do BUT I DO see a pattern that is a potential safety issue so I'll preach from my firsthand knowledge to maybe help other riders understand what is going on and how to possibly circumvent the issue; YMMV based on the terrain and conditions where you ride. My rear DHR2 is unmodified and has worked well for trail speeds in dry weather. As you know, there is just not a one-tire-does-all tire and I'm grateful for learning of the different mods for improvement and the knowledge sharing I've gained from this forum including your posts.

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    Not all riled up, just more having fun at your expense with some snarky smartassary. I know you are a glossary of knowledge of all things MTB so I figured if anyone could take it, it would be you. Now enough talk about the DHR2 its old news. How about the Highroller 3....I mean the Dissector. I am stoked on this as a rear tire with a Ass guy up front.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Now enough talk about the DHR2 its old news. How about the Highroller 3....I mean the Dissector. I am stoked on this as a rear tire with a Ass guy up front.
    Dude, everyone knows the Ass guy goes on the rear.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    It's a 5-year old article, but I followed PinkBike's recommendation of HR2's for the gravely/sandy loose over concrete hard that is present in the foothills around Albuquerque. I'm running a 2.5WT HR2 up front on my hardtail and have found I really like it on the super loose atop super hard conditions that I've ridden in Arizona and New Mexico.
    5 years old or not, I am pretty intrigued with trying a a High Roller 2 now. I had always heard the DHF was King for loose over hard AZ conditions (I frequent Prescott) and I have always been really happy with DHFs. Is the HR2 really better in terms of all out flat corner traction when traction is crap? How does the rolling resistance compare to the DHF?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rynomx785 View Post
    5 years old or not, I am pretty intrigued with trying a a High Roller 2 now. I had always heard the DHF was King for loose over hard AZ conditions (I frequent Prescott) and I have always been really happy with DHFs.
    I pulled a 2.5WT DHF off when I put on the 2.5WT HR2... did it pretty quickly after moving to ABQ

    Quote Originally Posted by rynomx785 View Post
    Is the HR2 really better in terms of all out flat corner traction when traction is crap?
    The local ride (from my driveway), is a layer of sandy/gravely crap that sits atop concrete hard dirt. The Monsoons make it worse, as it washes even more of the crap down into the trails... then the trails become dry/dusty by September/October and it's a layer of sandy/gravely moondust atop concrete hard dirt. I wasn't happy with how the DHF handled this odd trail condition and wanted to dry something else.

    I'm pleased with how the HR2 corner knobs dig through the sandy/gravely crap. It brakes better than the DHF as well. I can come into corners hotter, hit the binders right before and then 'dig' those paddle like knobs into the sandy/gravely crap.

    Quote Originally Posted by rynomx785 View Post
    How does the rolling resistance compare to the DHF?
    Personally, I think it rolls faster than a DHF, but that's pretty subjective. Let me put it another way - it doesn't roll like crap or noticeably worse than the DHF. Personally, I feel the DHR2 is the slowest roller of the 3.

    Outside of New Mexico - I've ridden the HR2 (up front) in Prescott, Sedona, Tucson, Mesa, Tempe, Moab, Grand Junction, Durango.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    I pulled a 2.5WT DHF off when I put on the 2.5WT HR2... did it pretty quickly after moving to ABQ



    The local ride (from my driveway), is a layer of sandy/gravely crap that sits atop concrete hard dirt. The Monsoons make it worse, as it washes even more of the crap down into the trails... then the trails become dry/dusty by September/October and it's a layer of sandy/gravely moondust atop concrete hard dirt. I wasn't happy with how the DHF handled this odd trail condition and wanted to dry something else.

    I'm pleased with how the HR2 corner knobs dig through the sandy/gravely crap. It brakes better than the DHF as well. I can come into corners hotter, hit the binders right before and then 'dig' those paddle like knobs into the sandy/gravely crap.



    Personally, I think it rolls faster than a DHF, but that's pretty subjective. Let me put it another way - it doesn't roll like crap or noticeably worse than the DHF. Personally, I feel the DHR2 is the slowest roller of the 3.
    Thanks for the feedback. I started reading tire threads in hunt for a faster rolling rear and I have come out being ready to buy a new front. LOL

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by rynomx785 View Post
    How does the rolling resistance compare to the DHF?
    The HR2 rolls REALLY slowly in the loamy conditions in the PNW, but rolling resistance didn't seem too bad in sandy desert conditions.
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  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
    The HR2 rolls REALLY slowly in the loamy conditions in the PNW, but rolling resistance didn't seem too bad in sandy desert conditions.
    So in your opinion the DHF rolls faster in loam? I wouldn't have guessed tread pattern would even be relevant in regards to rolling resistance in soft loam?

    I don't come across much loam in AZ so not a big concern. LOL Still an interesting discussion though.

  46. #46
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    It depends on tread compound... a DC DHR2 rolls decent in just about any condition, faster than both DHF and HF2. The 3C not so much. The HR2 in 3C out back is like a boat anchor in everything but hardpack, like Spectre stated. The only slower tire I've used was the old Nevegals. Run DC for any Maxxis tires for rear use - faster and wear a LOT better.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    It depends on tread compound... a DC DHR2 rolls decent in just about any condition, faster than both DHF and HF2. The 3C not so much. The HR2 in 3C out back is like a boat anchor in everything but hardpack, like Spectre stated. The only slower tire I've used was the old Nevegals. Run DC for any Maxxis tires for rear use - faster and wear a LOT better.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    So, what is going to roll faster in a 29x2.4, a 3C Maxxterra Dissector or a DC DHR2? Does compound trump tread design or vice versa?

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    I really like morsa rear with dhr2 front. It makes for a fast confidence inspiring combination on my 27.5 jamis dragon.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
    The HR2 rolls REALLY slowly in the loamy conditions in the PNW, but rolling resistance didn't seem too bad in sandy desert conditions.
    Let me clarify some of the comments that I've made about my experience with the 2.5WT HR2 3C EXO.

    - Front use only, so cannot speak to rear rolling resistance
    - DRY New Mexico, Arizona conditions. Lots of sand, rock, gravel... loose over hard from hell, really.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    It depends on tread compound... a DC DHR2 rolls decent in just about any condition, faster than both DHF and HF2. The 3C not so much. The HR2 in 3C out back is like a boat anchor in everything but hardpack, like Spectre stated. The only slower tire I've used was the old Nevegals. Run DC for any Maxxis tires for rear use - faster and wear a LOT better.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Personally, I only noticed a very small difference in rolling resistance between the Maxx Terra and DC DHR2. I started a thread about a year ago on the subject.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy3220 View Post
    Personally, I only noticed a very small difference in rolling resistance between the Maxx Terra and DC DHR2. I started a thread about a year ago on the subject.
    I could see it being a meaningful difference on the road or on a hard pack flow trail but it doesn't seem to me that it would make much of a difference on a trail where the knobs are penetrating the surface. It would be interesting to see a more in depth rolling resistance test like Vital did this week. Surprising results from it as well.

    If you haven't seen it yet..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=je1UyJRYhIg

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    My Giant Trance 29-2 came with a DHF/DHR2 setup while the Capra 29 that I just picked up came with DHR2 front and rear. I had the chance to run both bikes down in Bentonville over the past month and both front tires worked great. No wash outs on either, both had plenty of bite charging into corners. The DHR2 seemed to have maybe a tad bit better traction on the wet rocky chunky downhill tech than the DHF, but the DHF worked with no complaints.
    The only downside was the DHR2 is a bit louder on pavement, but that's a non-issue imho. I didn't notice any difference in rolling resistance, but they were on two different bikes.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by rynomx785 View Post
    So, what is going to roll faster in a 29x2.4, a 3C Maxxterra Dissector or a DC DHR2? Does compound trump tread design or vice versa?
    Depends, front or back. Front the tread pattern for sure trumps compound which is why most of us DH'rs run sticky rubber up front (especially during the rain season) as it really doesn't slow you down that much. Back would be a tossup depending on how different and deep the tread knobs are. I'd pick a Dissector if rolling speed was the main factor for a rear tire but the DHR2 will have way more climbing traction and better braking power too. Everything is a compromise... you just have to figure out what you're willing to give up based on the majority of the terrain and conditions you ride in.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Depends, front or back. Front the tread pattern for sure trumps compound which is why most of us DH'rs run sticky rubber up front (especially during the rain season) as it really doesn't slow you down that much. Back would be a tossup depending on how different and deep the tread knobs are. I'd pick a Dissector if rolling speed was the main factor for a rear tire but the DHR2 will have way more climbing traction and better braking power too. Everything is a compromise... you just have to figure out what you're willing to give up based on the majority of the terrain and conditions you ride in.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    I was asking in regards to a rear tire. Rolling speed isn't my main priority per se but, I am curious which tire would be faster, the 3C Dissector or the DC DHR2. Rolling resistance seems to be very opinionated and based on what people feel is faster. With as important as it is in this industry I am surprised more testing hasn't been done. I have seen a Bike Radar video comparing different widths and the latest Vital video where they compare a couple Maxxis combos but it would be cool to see a more in depth comparison.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by rynomx785 View Post
    I am curious which tire would be faster, the 3C Dissector or the DC DHR2
    *Armchair engineering alert* Based on tread pattern and intended usage (which dictated Maxxis' design criteria), I would guess the Dissector to be the faster roller.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    *Armchair engineering alert* Based on tread pattern and intended usage (which dictated Maxxis' design criteria), I would guess the Dissector to be the faster roller.
    LOL Yeah, that is what I have always assumed too but that is assuming that compound doesn't make a big difference in rolling resistance?

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by wishiwasbiking View Post
    I had the same on loose over hard, lost the front so fast I went down shoulder first still gripping the bars. Collarbone in 5 pieces...

    Went back to DHF, wonít be going back.
    Use caution when blaming equipment....

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    Use caution when blaming equipment....
    Embrace the suck. lol

  59. #59
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    I personally think compound is King with rolling resistance, then casing, then tread pattern. There are some extreme differences like a mud spike vs a XC tire. But tires in the same category I personally find a much smaller difference in rolling when the compound and casing is the same and it is just tread pattern. For example I have 5 different DHF options in the same size and can tell a difference between them each, but cannot tell a difference between a 3c DHF and 3c DHR2 or the DC DHF and the Aggressor or Maxx Grip DD DHF and the same casing and compound Assegia.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    I personally think compound is King with rolling resistance, then casing, then tread pattern. There are some extreme differences like a mud spike vs a XC tire. But tires in the same category I personally find a much smaller difference in rolling when the compound and casing is the same and it is just tread pattern. For example I have 5 different DHF options in the same size and can tell a difference between them each, but cannot tell a difference between a 3c DHF and 3c DHR2 or the DC DHF and the Aggressor or Maxx Grip DD DHF and the same casing and compound Assegia.
    Agreed! Pedalling Maxx-Grip anything F & R is torture.

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