Maxxis minion DHR II up front?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Maxxis minion DHR II up front?

    I got a 2.0 Bronson online and it came with front and rear 2.3 DHR II tires, not sure if this was a mistake or not. I ride in the Santa Cruz Mtns where it's loose at times and rocks. I have enduro S boost wheelset so could take wider tires

    So my options now

    1) keep DHRII setup front and rear since they are brand new

    I could complain and get these options for NO charge.

    2) keep DHRII in the rear and do the E13 TRS race front or another brand (but it will not match since different manufacture and color?) but if it's a good combo I don't care if no matches

    3)keep DHRII in the rear and do the DHRII WT 2.5 in the front? 2.5 big traction even though a DRF but in a WT

    Your thoughts on these 3 options or others?

    Thxs for your time
    George

  2. #2
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    I had the dhr2 up front with a faster rolling minion ss in tge back. I thought the dhr2 2.3 was fantastic. They were on 29 rims with a 32mm iw. Ive done a lot of reading before going that route. However yiu should get what makes you happy, dont settle. Its really all in your/our head. Another thing you can do is spend hrs reading on the forums and formulate your opinion to convince yourself one way or another. That's what i would do but in the end it comes down to trial and error for your style and terrain. Thats why i have several sets of unused tires. $150 set of tires for my happiness is worth it.

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  3. #3
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    DHR2 is completely fine as a front tire. Faster rolling than DHF but does not have the same braking traction.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    DHR2 is completely fine as a front tire. Faster rolling than DHF but does not have the same braking traction.
    With the wider center tread, I would have thought the DHR2 would have the edge in braking. I haven't ridden it though so I don't have experience with it. The DHF has a lot of proponents but I've read quite a few good reviews for the DHR2 as a front. If I remember correctly, I think some preferred it over the DHF if you rode rocky/rooty off camber stuff.

  5. #5
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    Yea maybe the shop did this on purpose/ I emailed them asking but no response / well as long as the dhr2 gives me better traction and grip is really what a care for and yes ride that tough and rough stuff. I just could have leverage with the shop if I wanted to change at no cost, just seeing if I should but not with a dhf but a e13 race tire but the brands will miss match lol

  6. #6
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    DHR2 2.3 F&R is almost telepathic on hardpack (with rock and loose-over-hard, typical sun-baked dirt), regarding how it handles--picture a line and it'll hit it precisely. It rolls faster than DHF and HR2. It's like the ideal AM combo.

    I tried DHR2 2.3 front and a faster rolling lower profile rear, but lost significant accuracy in line holding ability. Don't think it was worth the mismatched feel.

    Rode a demo bike, a Banshee Rune, as part of a MRP demo (had Cane Creek DBa rear and MRP Stage fork), and it felt natural under me from the get-go, since it also was running DHR2 2.3 F&R. I was doing sessions on a trail that demands much from a suspension tune with full speed from first run to last. Proved that the tires make the bike.

    The DHF is a pig in comparison. I ride the DHF slower overall, when I include climbing and more level ground, but when I'm really pushing the limits on a trail I know, the DHF can really stick the corners. It might brake worse than many other clones and the DHR2, but you don't have to brake as much with them.

    The DHF and HR2 work fine up front with a faster rear, though if you slip with the HR2, you're on the ground. Ride them both F&R and you might feel like you're out of shape, or wonder if there's a headwind.

  7. #7
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    Its hard to imagine anyone would really feel a difference between the dhf and dhr on the front in regards to rolling resistance

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  8. #8
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    Zooey,

    What did you think of the MRP? Was it The new Ribbon? I've got the Stage holding on to my DHRII 2.3's

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    It was a Stage. An older one. My impressions:

    It was making noise, seemed like turbulence from the oil flow. Didn't have the clacky magnetic blow-off that I expected. They said they solved the noise problem on current production forks.

    They claimed that it had lower breakaway force than a Pike, about 5 lbs of force to break stiction, which wasn't hard to believe from ride testing. Noticed that it compressed when the rear hit the same bump that the front did, which is a good sign of a sensitive fork. I'm too light to test how freely the fork moves under bending loads.

    Definitely wasn't flexy, nor too stiff, but was solid, matching the Banshee's front end stiffness well enough to allow for accurate control of the front. Felt confident, at least as much confidence inspiring as a Pike, but not quite a 36's level of confidence.

    The adjustments from the fork crown made a noticeable difference to ride feel. The ramp control was surprisingly useful, though I don't miss it enough to buy their retrofit kit. Considering how much they charge for the kit, some may find more value in the Stage as it comes standard, explaining the street price difference. I like the axle they use, and wish all axles were like it, but I bet they patented it and keeping the competitive advantage to themselves, else I see no reason why other brands aren't using the same system.

    They showed me some 'damping force to velocity' graphs from the dyno tests, but they looked normalized and I didn't get a good look a the value scales, so I didn't get to see the levels of hysteresis and such. I believe it had a typical digressive curve. Didn't ask what kind of torture testing they put the fork through.

    Seemed to be a competitive fork, appealing to those that want more potential performance and fine tuning out-of-the-box. Not sure how helpful my dry analysis is, but in the end I'm still drawn to Fox forks at almost all levels (32SC, 34, 40), except for Enduro (Lyrik), but again, I'm a lightweight, and I've torn down more Fox products than any other brand's, so familiarity plays a role in my bias. Rear shocks is another story.

  10. #10
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    I run exclusively DHR2's up front (29x2.4) with faster rolling stuff in the back - they do brake really well, but lack the turn-in precision and intermediate angle cornering tenacity of the DHF, but in every regard they work better for me than everything else I've tried. So, nothing wrong with running them. The straight line braking edges are brilliant, and do compensate somewhat for the loss in that department when I went to Minion SS rear tires.

    I'll add the caveat that I'm running the 3C MaxxTerra out front, because the softer rubber does help with traction (and on the front, slightly stickier rubber is less of a detraction). If they're dual compound, they're happier on the back, and pairing it with something like the e13 TRS tire would probably be mint.

  11. #11
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    I ride the same trails. e*thirteen TRSr front, DHRII rear is hard to beat.

  12. #12
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    I tried the DHR2 on the front once, ended up on my face hard and could not trust it again. I remember thinking that it had great traction on the 10 corners I hit before that one. Maybe I was just being too aggressive coming off highroller 2 where you kinda just throw that tire around. I might try it again the future the more I see people swear they work well. I just have once of the hardest hits I can remember as of late wish a DHR2 washout in the front.

  13. #13
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    If you can get the e13 as a replacement do it. If you're in dry conditions I'd go trs+ over the race. It's my favorite all time front tire.
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  14. #14
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    Thxs fellows / sounds like the dhr2 is good in front but since the e13 plus is available I will get / not sure when though?

  15. #15
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    If it was me I'd give it a try as is, Greg Minnar seems to like this combo, figure he knows a thing or two, if you don't like it order up a DHF 2.3" for the front and then you already have a spare rear for when you wear the other out.
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  16. #16
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    The reason some are washing out on DHR2's in front is because of the more horizontal knobs which slip on wet rocks and roots compared to a DHF. If you do the Minnar cut to the DHR2 you basically have a DHF and it works fantastic as a front tire: Maxxis Minion DHR2 | Blister Gear Review - Skis, Snowboards, Mountain Bikes, Climbing, Kayaking | Page 4
    Also the DHR2 has 15% or so LARGER side "L" knobs so you can actually push it even harder into corners as a front tire. Finally, an uncut DHR2 will brake BETTER than a DHF because of the larger horizontal knobs. A LOT of misinformation in this thread...

    Have FUN!

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    DHR2 is completely fine as a front tire. Faster rolling than DHF but does not have the same braking traction.

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    I would have said the exact opposite.

    The DHR II has a wide paddle-like center tread which works well for straight on braking and climbing grip, but has a lot of RR. What makes it roll better is when the Dual Compound version is ridden compared to the 3C.

    The DHF has a modestly spaced centerline tread pattern that keeps RR down. What makes the DHF roll more slowly is when riders use the 3C compound out back. In a 275 I dont think the DC version is made in a 2.3", which has always bummed me out.


    To the OP...

    What is the durometer on the tires?

    IMO the best set up is a DHRII DC out back and a DHF 3C up front, both in a 2.3".

  18. #18
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    So Minnar cut his dhr2 to make it perfect! Well not sure if I want to cut mine!

    I could complain to the shop who put it on and say want another since I didn't order it this way for the front

    Gman
    Ever heard E13 race or plus in a 2.35 / put that on front and keep the dhr2 for the rear (even though the brand will miss match) but it will be a good combo I hear!

    Or

    The dhf WT (wide) 2.5 in the front and keep dhr2 in the rear even though it's only a 2.3. The do have a 2.4 dhr2 but didn't see it prior

    Thxs

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    The reason some are washing out on DHR2's in front is because of the more horizontal knobs which slip on wet rocks and roots compared to a DHF. If you do the Minnar cut to the DHR2 you basically have a DHF and it works fantastic as a front tire: Maxxis Minion DHR2 | Blister Gear Review - Skis, Snowboards, Mountain Bikes, Climbing, Kayaking | Page 4
    Also the DHR2 has 15% or so LARGER side "L" knobs so you can actually push it even harder into corners as a front tire. Finally, an uncut DHR2 will brake BETTER than a DHF because of the larger horizontal knobs. A LOT of misinformation in this thread...

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    Like what G-man suggested, I made mine corner more like a DHF by cutting a new lateral edge that lined up with the other center blocks.

    Maxxis minion DHR II up front?-dhr2cut.jpg

  20. #20
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    If possible when u have time show me the area where u cut? Maybe take a pic then edit with a red circle or something like that pretty please

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    Though really don't want cut, most likely will mess it up for sure

    So two choices for front with my 2.3 rear dhr2

    E13 race or 2.5 wide dhf WT?

    What's the best grip/traction per these two?

    Thxs

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    I would have said the exact opposite.

    The DHR II has a wide paddle-like center tread which works well for straight on braking and climbing grip, but has a lot of RR. What makes it roll better is when the Dual Compound version is ridden compared to the 3C.

    The DHF has a modestly spaced centerline tread pattern that keeps RR down. What makes the DHF roll more slowly is when riders use the 3C compound out back. In a 275 I dont think the DC version is made in a 2.3", which has always bummed me out.
    My bad, you're right.

    I was speaking on my own experience w/ my old Nomad3 that came with DHR2's front and rear. When I finally got proper DHF's (3C) on, I noticed how much slower it rolled and incorrectly concluded DHR2's rolled faster when it sounds like it was likely more to do w/ the compound.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by vpfreesantacruz View Post
    If possible when u have time show me the area where u cut? Maybe take a pic then edit with a red circle or something like that pretty please
    Click the Blister Gear review a few posts up.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by vpfreesantacruz View Post
    E13 race or 2.5 wide dhf WT?

    What's the best grip/traction per these two?

    Thxs
    E13. Same size/volume as 2.5 DHF, a little less weight, more traction. The soft race compound has held up fine for me in Santa Cruz/bay area.

  25. #25
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    After reading this thread and many like it, I think I will swap the 2.4 WT DHR2 3c to the front for a few rides and give it another try. My 2.3 DHF is looking a bit worse for wear at the moment. Hopefully I will not regret this choice. I have to decide to "cut" it or not... a almost brand new tire, hard to take the cutters to it.

  26. #26
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    I like the DHR2 on the front with a Forkaster rear. I'll use the DHF if it's been wet. It sticks better to wet roots.

  27. #27
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    Maxxis minion DHR II up front?-dhriitrim.png

    Cut it to modify the width of the wider center "paddles", in order to create a more consistent sized gap between the center and shoulder knobs (see left side of image).

    If you don't feel comfortable lopping a chunk of rubber off, a compromise is to create a sipe (see right side of image).

    Requirements:

    Time - 15 minutes per tire
    Tool - diagonal cutter AKA "dikes"
    Physical ability - sufficient pinching strength to handle the tool to cut through thick rubber
    Difficulty - so easy a 3 year old, or however old you deem a person trustworthy enough to use cutting tools without supervision, can do it, as long as they meet the physical ability requirement

    Notes - you will end up with dozens of small bits of rubber on the ground. Plan accordingly. You will likely have an achy back if you are too tense and are curled over the tire, trying to be ultra precise. Just relax, it's going to take a while. Have a drink and/or entertainment ready.

    Oh, and the DHR2 has *lower* rolling resistance than the DHF. It's due to the ramping. If you want more climbing bite in the back, an Aggressor lacks ramps, and has more edges thanks to siping. If you don't want to cut, just go with a DHF. This is just for those that want bigger shoulder knobs, better rolling resistance, and better braking, all in a lower weight package. DC F&R is totally fine for dry. You want a tire using the softer MaxxGrip 3C version for wet slippery conditions.

  28. #28
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    I tied a cut DHRII and while it was OK the e13 tire is much better.

  29. #29
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    Bob-0

    What u running on the rear tire? E13 race might have to do, ur in the Bay Area? U ride demo, campus and Skeggs stuff?

    but Thxs for cutting info Zooey!! Very interesting

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    The reason some are washing out on DHR2's in front is because of the more horizontal knobs which slip on wet rocks and roots compared to a DHF. If you do the Minnar cut to the DHR2 you basically have a DHF and it works fantastic as a front tire: Maxxis Minion DHR2 | Blister Gear Review - Skis, Snowboards, Mountain Bikes, Climbing, Kayaking | Page 4
    Also the DHR2 has 15% or so LARGER side "L" knobs so you can actually push it even harder into corners as a front tire. Finally, an uncut DHR2 will brake BETTER than a DHF because of the larger horizontal knobs. A LOT of misinformation in this thread...
    Have FUN!
    G MAN
    +1, without the Minnaar cuts as the difference is probably noticeable if you charge really hard. I did ride them in the bike park and they're amazing, 29er 2.3s F/R. Lighter than DHF/HR2 and predictable. Bit overkill for just trail riding where you will feel the extra rolling resistance compared to something like an Ardent Race.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by vpfreesantacruz View Post
    Bob-0

    What u running on the rear tire? E13 race might have to do, ur in the Bay Area? U ride demo, campus and Skeggs stuff?

    but Thxs for cutting info Zooey!! Very interesting
    Running WTB Trail Boss rear. That's where I ride and Pacifica pretty often as well.

  32. #32
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    Bob-o and all

    Looks like no stock in E13 race just e13 plus from the shop (free tire to choose for the front) so get e13 plus or 2.5 drf WT (wide) for the front and keeping the dhr II 2.3 for the rear

    Final thoughts?

  33. #33
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    The e13 Plus works just fine as long as it's dry, you don't really need the softer e13 Race unless there's a bunch of wet slimy rocks & roots. The side knobs on those tires are so beefy that even the harder compound Plus version will beat the pants off of most other brands' soft compound tires.

  34. #34
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    Well there could be some wet stuff in certain areas after a hard rain but don't like to ride in light rain or day after rain after a bad accident (fractured ankle)

    What do u think of 2.5 dhf WT (wide) instead of e13 plus for front since I rather have race? The rear will be still be 2.3 dhr2

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by vpfreesantacruz View Post
    Gman
    Ever heard E13 race or plus in a 2.35 / put that on front and keep the dhr2 for the rear (even though the brand will miss match) but it will be a good combo I hear!

    Or

    The dhf WT (wide) 2.5 in the front and keep dhr2 in the rear even though it's only a 2.3. The do have a 2.4 dhr2 but didn't see it prior

    Thxs
    I don't have any time on the E13 tire but have heard it is basically a lighter, faster rolling version of the DHF with a little less braking efficiency; probably a great choice for Enduro/Trail riding as a front tire. I personally run the 3C 2.5" DHF WT tire as my front tire and couldn't be happier. It is a rather heavy tire with a moderate amount of drag tho for trail use. The 2.35 version is a joke compared to it tho so stay away from that. I also roll a DHR2 rear in dual compound and love my setup.

    Hope this helps,

    G MAN
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    Gman and all,

    So cool u like the 2.5 WT DHF / strong in cornering and good grip?, what rims u running on it, I have the I9 enduro S wheels, which has like 30mm internal so should be ok!

    U mean the 2.3 Dhf is a joke?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    I don't have any time on the E13 tire but have heard it is basically a lighter, faster rolling version of the DHF with a little less braking efficiency; probably a great choice for Enduro/Trail riding as a front tire.
    The people who are saying that are wrong. The E13 is the lighter and better mud clearing version of the Michelin Wild Rock'r2 (E13 stole their side knobs straight off the Michelin), there's nothing else quite like those 2 tires. Both of them will out-corner the DH super tacky DHF along with pretty much every other tire in existence, and the braking is at or close to DH tire levels. I don't have any experience with the E13 outside of a bike park, but it didn't feel much worse than a 2.3" DHR2 for rolling resistance. They basically give the grip of a full-on DH tire in a lighter & faster rolling casing.

  38. #38
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    I've tried the DHR II 27.5x2.3 3C in the front and I experienced some unexpected washing of the front tire when pushing really hard into corners. I switched to a 2.3 3C DHF and haven't had the same issue since.

    This is odd given that the side knobs are the same size and shape on both tires. As others have mentioned it may have to do with the width of the center tread keeping the cornering knobs from being able to bit as hard.

    Looking at the two side by side tho it appears there's another slight difference that may be having an effect under very hard cornering. The side knobs on the DHF appear to extend noticeably further down the side of the casing vs the DHRII.

    My armchair theory is this slight difference means that the side knobs on the DHF are supported better and therefore have less of a tendency to fold over when cornering aggressively.

    No idea if that's actually the case but there's clearly a difference between the two. (most notable on the square side knobs) Maxxis minion DHR II up front?-maxxis-minion-dhf-tire.jpg

  39. #39
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    Interesting, / though since I have a dhr2 / 2.3 in the rear and the shop didn't have a e13 race they will ship dhf 2.5 WT 3C exo in the grip version / will keep u posted

  40. #40
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    Don't know, but that is the exact experience I had. While the DHR2 was an excellent front tyre, when I really pushed it, that's what I experienced, just couldn't compare to the DHF. Maybe the mod to the widest centre block might change that, have one I'm thinking of giving it a go on as if it does work that's a near 100g weigh loss.

    Quote Originally Posted by spokeywheeler View Post
    I've tried the DHR II 27.5x2.3 3C in the front and I experienced some unexpected washing of the front tire when pushing really hard into corners. I switched to a 2.3 3C DHF and haven't had the same issue since.
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  41. #41
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    My thinking is that the cornering limit is because of the lack of vertical siping, so the tread isn't deforming enough to stay hooked up, and that the carcass is having to deform slightly to keep that part of the wide braking paddle in contact - so the mod Zooey suggested addresses both of those concerns - I'm going to give it a shot.
    I had previously thought that I wasn't getting it over onto the cornering knobs enough, but a spin on some DHF's told me that wasn't the case - I realize I'll be giving up a bit of braking traction, but I'll happily make that sacrifice as I'm used to having poor grip everywhere on my other bike. It was also giving me a weird problem of my MinionSS being more hooked up in the corners - I think I understand the root cause now.

    I'd argue the weight loss isn't worth it (the 2.5WT casing is discernibly wider than even the 2.4WT on the DHR2), but having the slightly better rolling resistance and braking edges is what pulls me that way - especially since I'm trying to compensate for a semi-slick with big cornering knobs out back.

  42. #42
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    ^^The siping is actually a great idea and something I've been meaning to try; fairly certain it will work great as that's bascially the tread pattern on the HR2 which kills it in mud/wet conditions with no side slip because of the vert siping on the horizontal knobs!

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by vpfreesantacruz View Post
    Gman and all,

    So cool u like the 2.5 WT DHF / strong in cornering and good grip?, what rims u running on it, I have the I9 enduro S wheels, which has like 30mm internal so should be ok!

    U mean the 2.3 Dhf is a joke?
    2.5" WT DHF 3C is the best cornering tire I've ever used, on 29mm IW Nox composite rims. Rear is a 2.4" WT DHR2 dual compound. You aren't going to find a better cornering set of tires on the planet IMHO. A bit heavy for just plain trail use tho. The 2.3" DHF is a "decent" tire but not in the same league and I certainly wouldn't buy one in favor of an E13 or Wild Rock'r2 or even a Butcher for that matter.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  44. #44
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    The DHF 2.5 WT 3C is a very aggressive tire that hooks up like crazy. On par with a Magic Mary, and likely even more aggressive (hard to say now as I've not ridden them back to back, only at different times).

    IMO you've got to be ridding some really demanding terrain to justify the 2.5 WT. It is a lot of tire, and unless the trail was pointed down in a major way, it rolled slowly.

    (So much so that I took mine off my bike after about 3 rides - its laying on my garage floor if anyone is interested.)

    I've found the DHF 2.3 3C up front to be the best compromise between grip and still keeping the bike snappy for AM and trail riding. Out back I run a DHR II DC in a 2.3

    Also, I'm not a big fan of the really wide rims one is "suppose" to use with the WT flavor. Ends up being more weight on top of the already big WT tread.

    Now on my DH rig, that's a different matter. There its the DHF/DHR 2.5s in DH casing. Since I'm able to get my DH fix, I think that's why I'm also more likely to keep my AM bike on the snappier side.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by spokeywheeler View Post
    I've tried the DHR II 27.5x2.3 3C in the front and I experienced some unexpected washing of the front tire when pushing really hard into corners.
    I found the same thing, and I don't push really hard into corners. I assumed that I wasn't an aggressive enough rider to get the tyre to work properly. It wasn't terrible but it slid a few times so I stopped using it as I have other tyres that don't.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by spokeywheeler View Post
    I've tried the DHR II 27.5x2.3 3C in the front and I experienced some unexpected washing of the front tire when pushing really hard into corners. I switched to a 2.3 3C DHF and haven't had the same issue sinceClick image for larger version. 

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    same here. Tried the DHR II 3C as a front tires and was pretty disappointed compared to the DHF

    DHR ("Downhill Rear") is a rear tire!

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steel Calf View Post
    same here. Tried the DHR II 3C as a front tires and was pretty disappointed compared to the DHF

    DHR ("Downhill Rear") is a rear tire!
    While you're at it, you should tell riders to stop using the DHF on the rear, passive riders from using the Aggressors, riders that don't gamble big from using High Rollers, etc. Wait, why am I talking to a rusty metal baby cow... the fun of taking things too literally from an incoherent POV... XD

    Also, see the above cut mod post (#27).

    Below is a pic of a partly cut tire. The non-driveside had part of a knob removed, up to the point the horizontal stripe ends, makign it about as wide as the other center knobs and creating a gap between the center and side knobs (refers to the blurred out part in the mod post). The driveside just has 1 cut for siping, but ideally should be cut off to gain DHF-like cornering performance.

    Maxxis minion DHR II up front?-maxxisdhr2partlycut.jpg
    (sorry, my garage has weak lighting)

    The consistent gap prevents the washout. See below pic, nabbed from blistergearreview:

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    Now recall the infamous Ardent tread pattern. Imagine that the Ardent is leaned and nicely settled into that gap, then the tire rolls forward and that oddly spaced transition knob comes into play. On a hard surface, the transition knob actually lifts the tire up, releasing the tire from this nice settled profile, leading to washout. One huge downside to the gap is that if you use wide rims with the "hooks" (or whatever the cycling term for the actual rims/lips are) directly under it, it'll be extremely prone to pinch flats.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by zooey View Post
    While you're at it, you should tell riders to stop using the DHF on the rear,
    Absolutely not. Just because the DHR doesn't work well as a front tire doesn't mean the same applies for the DHF as rear tire.

    Washing out at the front is far more dangerous than having less braking grip on the rear wheel, in fact I know many people who run the DHF as a rear tire too because it rolls better than the DHR II

    I'm aware of the blistergearreview article which described the phenomenal effects of cutting the middle knobs on the DHR II, I still see no point though in doing that when running a DHF works.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steel Calf View Post
    Absolutely not. Just because the DHR doesn't work well as a front tire doesn't mean the same applies for the DHF as rear tire.

    Washing out at the front is far more dangerous than having less braking grip on the rear wheel, in fact I know many people who run the DHF as a rear tire too because it rolls better than the DHR II

    I'm aware of the blistergearreview article which described the phenomenal effects of cutting the middle knobs on the DHR II, I still see no point though in doing that when running a DHF works.
    How about this for the reason:

    Quote Originally Posted by zooey View Post
    Oh, and the DHR2 has *lower* rolling resistance than the DHF. It's due to the ramping. If you want more climbing bite in the back, an Aggressor lacks ramps, and has more edges thanks to siping. If you don't want to cut, just go with a DHF. This is just for those that want bigger shoulder knobs, better rolling resistance, and better braking, all in a lower weight package. DC F&R is totally fine for dry. You want a tire using the softer MaxxGrip 3C version for wet slippery conditions.
    Charts that shows the rolling resistance, pinch resistance, puncture resistance, and weight of a variety of tires, to give an idea of where the DHR2 may stand vs the competition:

    Maxxis minion DHR II up front?-bikemaggermanytiretest.jpg

    Maxxis minion DHR II up front?-bikemaggermanytiretest2.jpg

    2016er MTB-Reifen im Test

    DHR2 in 27.5 x 2.3 DC EXO, according to the above link, has 28.6W of rolling resistance, 54cm pinch resistance, 109N puncture resistance, and is 766g. They don't measure the braking or cornering objectively, but the DHR2's braking is undoubtedly among the best. It allows me to run bigger rotors, brake later and harder, and feel far less of the squirrelly out of control feeling when scrubbing speed. Some people up-size to 2.5 DHFs to try and gain better braking, but against popular belief, going wider does not make rolling resistance less in this case (which I believe is in the 40s for EXO Folding) and it's subjective whether or not the other benefits make up for it. For reference, an HR2 3C 2.4 has rolling resistance over 45W, presumably because the center paddles flex considerably when rolling; it doesn't feel so bad once it wears down shorter, IME. Then there's the case of keeping unsprung rotating mass to a minimum, without sacrificing durability and performance.

    How much is "good enough" for you? I am willing to spend 15 mins per tire to get the best overall compromise of speed, cornering, braking, tubeless compatibility, and toughness I can get affordably for my personal use, especially considering how durable the DHR2 has proved to be, lasting for well over a year. I expect more years and well over 3000+ miles on it, at this rate.
    Last edited by zooey; 04-26-2017 at 11:14 PM.

  50. #50
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    Timed myself cutting a brand new set of 3C version tires. Cut one, and it surprisingly took me like 30 minutes. I figured out the flow to save time (eyeing, cutting, rotating the tire, and not picking off the cut bits), but the 2nd tire still took me over 20 minutes. The 15 minute estimate I gave earlier definitely is quite optimistic...

    Maxxis minion DHR II up front?-maxxisdhr2profile.jpg

    Maxxis minion DHR II up front?-maxxisdhr2fullcut.jpg

    Mmmm, gonna see what this 3c MaxxTerra compound can do F&R tomorrow.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by zooey View Post
    Timed myself cutting a brand new set of 3C version tires. Cut one, and it surprisingly took me like 30 minutes.
    Feels like a lot longer though eh?

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    I felt like I spent less time, honestly. Looking at my results, I figure I averaged 6-10 seconds to make 2 cuts, and rotate the tire to prepare for the next cuts. There's 52 sets of wide paddles that need each side trimmed per 27.5 tire. 208 cuts in total per tire, with 2 "sipes" and 2 removal cuts per paddle. Nothing really making feel like I wish it were over soon, like hand or back discomfort. Think it was because I was spending time looking at my screen while cutting, as I was "watching" a movie (that I've watched before). Pretty sure it shouldn't take 10 seconds to make 2 cuts and that 6 seconds can be improved upon.

    Tools I used this time:
    - sheet metal cutters (straight), for making the sipe (just wanted a non-curved cutter, with a rounded tip)
    - tile nipper pliers, for removing the tire bit (was able to cut a bit more flush to the carcass, but had to adjust it since the sipe cut oftentimes wasn't deep enough, leaving an uncut flap of rubber that made it tough to rip the bits off)

  53. #53
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    It's easier to do all of one side, then the other.

  54. #54
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    I figured that I wanted to minimize the steps required. 52 tire rotations with 1 tool doing both sides vs 104 rotations with 1 tool doing 1 side. Swapping between tools or picking a tire bit off is also an extra step. Easy is relative... the body gets used to doing both sides if you work at it. I could teach my body to use my non-dominant hand for doing this all, if I wanted to. I appreciate the rubber flash being so accurate, that I can just put my cutters right down the middle between them when eyeing.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by zooey View Post
    I figured that I wanted to minimize the steps required. 52 tire rotations with 1 tool doing both sides vs 104 rotations with 1 tool doing 1 side.
    I must be missing something here. If you one whole side you only flip the tyre over once, where does 104 come from?

  56. #56
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    I'm probably using the wrong word for describing it, but when I say rotation, I mean that I spin the tire just enough so I can eye the knob with the tool over it. 52 paddles results in 52 "rotations".

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by zooey View Post
    I'm probably using the wrong word for describing it, but when I say rotation...
    Maybe, but what's the point of spending more time talking about it than it takes to do it? ;0)

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    Maybe, but what's the point of spending more time talking about it than it takes to do it? ;0)
    *shrug* Earth was created in 7 "days" and people are still talking about the details about it, rather than making another.

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  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by spokeywheeler View Post
    I've tried the DHR II 27.5x2.3 3C in the front and I experienced some unexpected washing when pushing really hard into corners. I switched to a 2.3 3C DHF and haven't had the same issue since.

    Looking at the two side by side tho it appears there's another slight difference that may be having an effect under very hard cornering. The side knobs on the DHF appear to extend noticeably further down the side of the casing vs the DHRII.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Good eyeballing.

    Those extensions you see on the DHF that are giving your tire a few grams more than a DHR II, make the difference between flowing on corners or crashing. They carry the cornering precision you can't obtain from a regular, straight-sided bricks like, say the DHR II, because of the studied, precise knob angle to match the ground level (which the knob must have to the trail when you lean the bike at certain angle), supported by the strong rubber extensions you noticed.

    I was married to a '15 Jekyll. 2.5 DHF WT (f) and 2.35 Ikon (r) on 30mm iw Supra 35 rims. Tire handling was quite heavy overall, but cornered like a dream. I am currently sticked with a TransAM 29 converted to Plus bike, now about to try the DHR II 2.6 and see how it matches my Rekon on the rear. I know the cornering will not be as natural and flowy, and will need to be more careful in it, but straight lines are most of what I am doing and looks perfect to shave some grams off in the front.

    Short Rides: Speed King 2.2 F/R
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  60. #60
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    DHF great for front
    DHR great for rear.

    When you can deal with the RR then get the DD.

    DHF DD great for front.
    DHR DD great for rear.

    Now you can switch out for Shorties or MM Super Grav for winter. Now haul ass & no longer worry about pinch flats or snake bites! And above all get out n ride rain or shine!

  61. #61
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    very interesting thread. I have the same dilemma. right now i have an aggressor on the rear and i have a spare DHF II 3c.....

    one question: if i use a DHR II on the front, do i need to set up the tire rotation backwards? does that make any sense?

    I've read in more than a few forums that many people do.
    Be yourself. Everyone else is already taken.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by stepping-razor View Post
    very interesting thread. I have the same dilemma. right now i have an aggressor on the rear and i have a spare DHF II 3c.....

    one question: if i use a DHR II on the front, do i need to set up the tire rotation backwards? does that make any sense?

    I've read in more than a few forums that many people do.
    No. The tire is directional for braking and rolling resistance. If you flip it, it will be super draggy and have no braking.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

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