Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under $60 - Page 5- Mtbr.com
Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345
Results 801 to 867 of 867
  1. #801
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ya29er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    95
    The Koozer hub lasted only 2 months for me. Now the ratchet spins freely inside the hub shell.
    I've bought it from aliexpress and don't have any warranty cards. According to Koozer there will be no warranty in my case.



    As I understand the aluminium thread of hub body was minced by the steel thread of the ratchet.

    Whet it was working I really liked it. 72POE is the thing and really helps.

  2. #802
    West Chester, PA
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    4,551
    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    72POE is the thing and really helps.
    So invest in a king, hadley or I9 then.

  3. #803
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ya29er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    So invest in a king, hadley or I9 then.
    Buying a $500 hub from an US company is against my life philosophy.

    Koozer actually replied to me quite quickly and are going to send me a new hub. They say that they see this type of problem for the first time. And I believe them - I weigh about 120kg geared up and tend to brake all kind of components much more often then everybody else around.

  4. #804
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    468
    might make sense for you to use a hub with a larger ratchet ring (more contact area with the hub shell) or one without a threaded-in ratchet ring (xm470, dt swiss)

    or maybe just one with deeper threads if you can find it

    I like how he said "invest", by the way
    like it's gonna pay off

  5. #805
    Land of the 230+
    Reputation: GuitsBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    2,477
    As a fellow clyde, the koozers are likly to keep going out on you. I kept deforming freehubs though the ratchet ring never gave out on me. I'm interested to see how the clydes do on the xm370 ring.

    Anyway, I have since moved to bike hub store / bitex hubs, and for a little extra coin theyre considerably more stout. Theyre not without thier problems, and I miss the extra POE the Koozers have (72 vs 54), but the BHS hubs are definitely stronger.

    But hey, if they can figure out how to make the koozers a bit more clyde friendly, I'd be back for sure.

  6. #806
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ya29er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    As a fellow clyde, the koozers are likly to keep going out on you. I kept deforming freehubs though the ratchet ring never gave out on me. I'm interested to see how the clydes do on the xm370 ring.

    Anyway, I have since moved to bike hub store / bitex hubs, and for a little extra coin theyre considerably more stout. Theyre not without thier problems, and I miss the extra POE the Koozers have (72 vs 54),
    Bitex hubs are not perfect either.
    I've snapped an aluminium axle on Bitex hub. Replaced it with a steel one from Novatec.
    Then after another year the bearing shell on drive side became enlarged - i.e. the bearing itself is loose inside it's shell and can be removed with bare fingers. Fixed using a bearing fitting compound.

  7. #807
    Land of the 230+
    Reputation: GuitsBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    2,477
    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Bitex hubs are not perfect either.
    I've snapped an aluminium axle on Bitex hub. Replaced it with a steel one from Novatec.
    Then after another year the bearing shell on drive side became enlarged - i.e. the bearing itself is loose inside it's shell and can be removed with bare fingers. Fixed using a bearing fitting compound.
    I'm not saying they are perfect. In fact I mentioned that they're not without their problems. I had skipping due to weak pawl springs in mine. but I still feel they are build a bit more stout than the koozers were, and so far they've handled the punishment much better. For what its worth.

  8. #808
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Koozer actually replied to me quite quickly and are going to send me a new hub. They say that they see this type of problem for the first time. And I believe them - I weigh about 120kg geared up and tend to brake all kind of components much more often then everybody else around.
    Glad to hear that they are standing behind the product and replacing it under warranty. I just laced up my XM490 (this was the first time I ever attempted to build my own wheel!) and for obvious reasons stories like yours get me nervous about the long term reliability of the hub. Just as a reference: did you use this website to reach out to them: About us | REBORN INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT LIMITED ? Thanks!

  9. #809
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    1,552
    I have a brand new in black koozer hub. 32h qr 135

    I can let go for $45 shipped if anyone wants. I went with bitex and thought I cancelled this but appatently he didn't get the message.

  10. #810
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ya29er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by Szy_szka View Post
    Glad to hear that they are standing behind the product and replacing it under warranty. I just laced up my XM490 (this was the first time I ever attempted to build my own wheel!) and for obvious reasons stories like yours get me nervous about the long term reliability of the hub. Just as a reference: did you use this website to reach out to them: About us | REBORN INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT LIMITED ? Thanks!
    Yes, I've contacted them using the email address listed there.

    So I've just received the hub. They sent the whole hub by DHL and didn't asked to send the broken back. So far this is my best warranty experience with hubs.

    Also the seller from Aliexpress offered to send a replacement but I would have to pay for the shipping.

    On the other hand when I minced down internals of Hope Evo 2 hub I had to send it back (+€7) first. The whole process took more then a month.

  11. #811
    mtbr member
    Reputation: One Pivot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    8,678
    Mine is now unlaced and going to my office as a liter paperweight. It's done and I'm really done, it's not even a viable backup anymore.

    It just doesn't roll well now. I'm not going to figure out why. It's not gritty, it has nice skf bearings. it just stopped rolling well. The pawls are beat, the shell is beat. I bet the axle bent.

  12. #812
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 006_007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    9,136
    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Mine is now unlaced and going to my office as a liter paperweight. It's done and I'm really done, it's not even a viable backup anymore.

    It just doesn't roll well now. I'm not going to figure out why. It's not gritty, it has nice skf bearings. it just stopped rolling well. The pawls are beat, the shell is beat. I bet the axle bent.
    Quitter.

    Maybe turn it into a salt shaker?

  13. #813
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    3
    4 months so far with the Koozer XM 470 and everithing is working fine. Some muddy rides doesnt afected so far, bearings spinning freely and a clean ratchet is what i saw when opened the freehub.

    About the sound, i compared the 470 vs Hope Pro 4 and measured the sound with an app and the results are very surprising. Koozers are 12 db louder than hopes, this damm hubs are noisy! so fans of loud hubs will be pleased. I think if your goal is to have a trustworthy hub without paying a big amount of money the koozers 470 are pretty ok, it seems to be that koozer have adressed some reliablity issues and they solved very well, of curse you dont have the ultra quick engagement, but 28t are pretty ok for many riders, maybe only on ultra technical sections you´ll find not so quick.

    Here you can see a video made by my self.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_okN8SxtcU

  14. #814
    Hitching a ride
    Reputation: Schulze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    3,054
    I've done a few rides on the dt ring drive knockoff version and it works fine. I have a lot of bikes and wheelsets so I can't put tons of time on it, but it looks like a solid design.

  15. #815
    Is dang happy!
    Reputation: Mr. Doom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,349
    I need a louder hub than my old Hope for chasing bears off the trails, seriously.

    XM470 looks like it will work, has a skull on it to match the Yelli. Building up a set of 35mm id Kore Realm 35mm id hoops. (Modern bike has them for $40 a pop with the 7% code and free shipping btw).

    12db louder than a Hope is impressive. That should be twice as loud! Thanks for the info Bacalardo

    Last edited by Mr. Doom; 11-20-2017 at 07:03 PM.
    The wheel is a extension of the foot

  16. #816
    mtbr member
    Reputation: W.J.Christy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    49
    Soo in my desire to build a secondary wheel set, I came across this thread while looking for hubs. I made it halfway through and decided to purchase a set. Well, I have now read the whole thread and am starting to wonder if I made the right choice. On the plus side, I have an and extra set of reliable hubs that I can lace up still.

    I am 210 ride mostly XC with only 1-3 foot drops and jumps (which I rarely do) and I am not a pedal masher most of the time.

    Should I cut my losses now and lace up the other hubs or should I experiment with the koozers and see what happens? thoughts?

  17. #817
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gotdurt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    174
    Quote Originally Posted by W.J.Christy View Post
    Soo in my desire to build a secondary wheel set, I came across this thread while looking for hubs. I made it halfway through and decided to purchase a set. Well, I have now read the whole thread and am starting to wonder if I made the right choice. On the plus side, I have an and extra set of reliable hubs that I can lace up still.

    I am 210 ride mostly XC with only 1-3 foot drops and jumps (which I rarely do) and I am not a pedal masher most of the time.

    Should I cut my losses now and lace up the other hubs or should I experiment with the koozers and see what happens? thoughts?
    If you are comfortable with lacing wheels, I wouldn't hesitate to put them to use; for me, it's only about an hour of my time, and if I can get a year out of them, I'm happy. I have a set that have been on 3 different bikes now since early 2015, and are still in good shape... luckily I caught a bad freehub bearing pre-failure that was causing some flex, and I had to replace the thin plastic ring in the freehub, but they are otherwise fine. FWIW, I pound my bikes pretty good. Id go ahead and use them, maybe start off with some good bearings for insurance, especially in the freehub.
    'T'is only a flesh wound...
    Some videos

  18. #818
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ya29er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by W.J.Christy View Post
    Should I cut my losses now and lace up the other hubs or should I experiment with the koozers and see what happens? thoughts?
    If you usually don't brake components then you'll be fine.

    Unfortunelly I do brake everything quite oftent. Just yesterday I managed to crack freehub bearing and feehub itself after about 1.5 months of usage.
    It was the replacement hub that they sent to me.
    And I had exactly the same experience with Hope Evo 2 hub which was supposetly rated even for downhill. With Koozer it's a bit easy to deal with - they send replcements without asking you to send them the broken part.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -20171205_174642.jpg

    A couple of weeks before I cracked XT crankarm in half while climbing.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -20171005_084825.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -20171005_082619.jpg  


  19. #819
    Land of the 230+
    Reputation: GuitsBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    2,477
    Those pics land somewhere between LOL and Holy Sh!t.

    I thought I was hard on my bikes. I see I have much to learn from you, master.

  20. #820
    mtbr member
    Reputation: W.J.Christy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    49
    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    If you usually don't brake components then you'll be fine
    Lord have mercy, what exactly are you doing with that bike? Yeah, I don't break stuff often, looking at how most people who have broken these hubs ride, I am pretty easy on my bike.

  21. #821
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,201
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Those pics land somewhere between LOL and Holy Sh!t.

    I thought I was hard on my bikes. I see I have much to learn from you, master.
    That's exactly what I was thinking looking at the crank pic, lol.

  22. #822
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    I have a buddy who bought a set of the Poozers to try. The ratched ring broke free and started spinning inside the hub. Lasted a couple months at most.

    Total waste of Money.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  23. #823
    mtbr member
    Reputation: W.J.Christy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    49
    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    I have a buddy who bought a set of the Poozers to try. The ratched ring broke free and started spinning inside the hub. Lasted a couple months at most.

    Total waste of Money.

    What kind of riding did he do? How heavy was he if you don't mind me asking?

  24. #824
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by W.J.Christy View Post
    What kind of riding did he do? How heavy was he if you don't mind me asking?
    He is 160-165 lbs
    Powerful for his weight I would say, but not a giant by any means.
    Most of the riding on them was flat prairie xc, and they broke on a trip to Deluth.
    The drive rings are not keyed - totall engineering mistake. They must be just bonded in. Considering a mtb'er generates the same torque as a small car, I'd say Poozer hubs are basically designed to fail. At lease the pawl and ratched style hubs.

    When you are 20km away from the trail head and your drive ring/ratched ring seperately....you have a long push back to the car!
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  25. #825
    mtbr member
    Reputation: W.J.Christy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    49
    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post

    When you are 20km away from the trail head and your drive ring/ratched ring seperately....you have a long push back to the car!
    Ouch, Oh well...... I can lace a wheel pretty easily and these are supposed to be the back up set. Plus i have a spare hub ready to go that will use the same spoke length. So I think i will give these a shot and see where it goes with the expectation of failure. I will just be sure to not use them when I absolutely need a reliable wheel set.

    Most of where I ride is well populated and never to far from the car....... The joys of living in Houston.

  26. #826
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ya29er's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    95
    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    He is 160-165 lbs
    The drive rings are not keyed - totall engineering mistake.
    Not true. The ratchet ring has a thread and is threaded into the hub body. Most hubs are made the same way.
    In my case the thread on the ratchet ring was fine, but the thead on the hub was gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    They must be just bonded in. Considering a mtb'er generates the same torque as a small car, I'd say Poozer hubs are basically designed to fail. At lease the pawl and ratched style hubs.
    The problem is not the design, by design they are all more or less the same. The problem is in the quality of manufacturing.
    A $7 narrow-wide chainring from aliexpress lasts only 2 months for me, but $30 from a proper brand such as Absolute black lasts alsmost a year. By design they are all the same. The difference is the aluminum alloy. The cheap one probably is made from softer 60x series alloy to justify milling costs.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post

    When you are 20km away from the trail head and your drive ring/ratched ring seperately....you have a long push back to the car!
    There's an old trick to use cable ties to tie casstte and spokes and make it a fixie.

  27. #827
    Land of the 230+
    Reputation: GuitsBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    2,477
    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    There's an old trick to use cable ties to tie casstte and spokes and make it a fixie.
    Thank you for this. I'll be sure to hold on to this gem for future use.

  28. #828
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Not true. The ratchet ring has a thread and is threaded into the hub body. Most hubs are made the same way.
    In my case the thread on the ratchet ring was fine, but the thead on the hub was gone.



    The problem is not the design, by design they are all more or less the same. The problem is in the quality of manufacturing.
    A $7 narrow-wide chainring from aliexpress lasts only 2 months for me, but $30 from a proper brand such as Absolute black lasts alsmost a year. By design they are all the same. The difference is the aluminum alloy. The cheap one probably is made from softer 60x series alloy to justify milling costs.



    There's an old trick to use cable ties to tie casstte and spokes and make it a fixie.
    Thanks for the clarification. Still... designed to fail! At least this version of the pooz.

    You will find also some companies to key their drive rings. Novatec does in their better hubs, like the Factor series for example.

    A few zipties on cassette and spokes is a neat idea. Still not going to be much fun through.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  29. #829
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    468
    factor hubs cost $200 or more per set
    haven't seen keyed ratchet rings in this price range (<=$100)

  30. #830
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Not true. The ratchet ring has a thread and is threaded into the hub body. Most hubs are made the same way.
    In my case the thread on the ratchet ring was fine, but the thead on the hub was gone.



    The problem is not the design, by design they are all more or less the same. The problem is in the quality of manufacturing.
    A $7 narrow-wide chainring from aliexpress lasts only 2 months for me, but $30 from a proper brand such as Absolute black lasts alsmost a year. By design they are all the same. The difference is the aluminum alloy. The cheap one probably is made from softer 60x series alloy to justify milling costs.



    There's an old trick to use cable ties to tie casstte and spokes and make it a fixie.
    Thanks for the clarification. Still... designed to fail! At least this version of the pooz.

    You will find also some companies to key their drive rings. Novatec does in their better hubs, like the Factor series for example.

    A few zipties on cassette and spokes is a neat idea. Still not going to be much fun through.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  31. #831
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    factor hubs cost $200 or more per set
    haven't seen keyed ratchet rings in this price range (<=$100)
    I was using as an example.
    I bought a set of new factors a while ago btw, for $120 usd to my door.
    In the last 6 months I've seen a good number of similar deals on nicer hubs.
    Crc has DT 350's for example, 36t,15x100 front 12x142 rear for around the $120 usd mark.

    If you aren't in a rush, better deals will pop up. You just have to watch for them.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  32. #832
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    468
    had, you mean
    the rear 350s were probably gone in an hour

    yeah I bought a set myself once for less than that, but it was a one off deal as well, so not really something I can advise to someone as an alternative to hubs that are actually in stock somewhere

    btw, the RWS-style Koozers have keyed rings I think
    there were pictures on this thread a while ago

    only 3 tabs, but probably enough for most people
    not everyone is 220lbs and hucking 3ft drops in the bottom gear (and landing uphill)

  33. #833
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    had, you mean
    the rear 350s were probably gone in an hour

    yeah I bought a set myself once for less than that, but it was a one off deal as well, so not really something I can advise to someone as an alternative to hubs that are actually in stock somewhere

    btw, the RWS-style Koozers have keyed rings I think
    there were pictures on this thread a while ago

    only 3 tabs, but probably enough for most people
    not everyone is 220lbs and hucking 3ft drops in the bottom gear (and landing uphill)
    I think just a few keyed tabs is all you need.

    The 350's were up for a couple week - I was super surprised. After the first 3-4 days they upped the price on the rear hub by $20. I assume when things sell to quickly they must have something to cue a price increase.

    They were actually $99 for the rear and maybe $49 for front, Canadian. $20 off if you spend $149 because both were clearance marked! I suppose that makes them closer to $100 USD.

    I keep an eye out now every few days. I managed to pick up a DT 240s rear for super cheap recently - $140 usd. They were up for a couple weeks also.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  34. #834
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    468
    You know the difference between rear 240s and 350 is basically the bearings (stainless vs regular) and a bit more weight shaving on the axle between the bearing stops, right?
    Manual lists different part numbers for the end caps and spacer as well but I fail to see how they're different

    oh yeah, and does anyone know if the framed part is threaded into the hub body or glued to it? I mean, neither is acceptable on a hub of this price, is it?

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -maxthonsnap20171208125509.png

  35. #835
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    You know the difference between rear 240s and 350 is basically the bearings (stainless vs regular) and a bit more weight shaving on the axle between the bearing stops, right?
    Manual lists different part numbers for the end caps and spacer as well but I fail to see how they're different

    oh yeah, and does anyone know if the framed part is threaded into the hub body or glued to it? I mean, neither is acceptable on a hub of this price, is it?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	MaxthonSnap20171208125509.png 
Views:	633 
Size:	114.2 KB 
ID:	1171185
    Indeed I do know, yes. I'd never pay the MSRP difference to get a set of 240's. But, when they are on super sale and the difference is small, why the heck not? the bearings in the 240's are some of the best in the business. Smoother longer lasting bearings and marginally lighter...not a bad thing.

    The axle configuration in the two is slightly different. The 240's can be converted in some cases. 15x100 can be converted to 20x110 for instance, and end caps play a part in that. The 350 is a dedicated standard which cannot be converted.

    Back to the Poozers. The big draw seems to be 72POE for cheap, but I'd rather less engagement and more reliability. If I were building a budget wheel, or backup set, I'd grab some XT hubs, disassemble, fill with a quality grease, and reassemble properly. I know cup/cone put some people off, but properly packed and assembled, they roll super smooth and are actually pretty tough - more so that most non-contact cartridge bearings found in the vast majority of modern hubs. Total cost, about $80-90 bucks for a set.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  36. #836
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    468
    and 3 xt hubs will get you 72 POE, or more
    now to figure out a way to put them in one wheel

  37. #837
    Land of the 230+
    Reputation: GuitsBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    2,477
    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    If I were building a budget wheel, or backup set, I'd grab some XT hubs, disassemble, fill with a quality grease, and reassemble properly. I know cup/cone put some people off, but properly packed and assembled, they roll super smooth and are actually pretty tough - more so that most non-contact cartridge bearings found in the vast majority of modern hubs.
    The koozer freehub lasted much longer than any shimano deore/slx/xt I've ever had. I couldn't disagree with you more about XT being a good budget hub.

  38. #838
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by bruto View Post
    and 3 xt hubs will get you 72 POE, or more
    now to figure out a way to put them in one wheel
    Current XT hubs are 36T. That's actually not horrible.
    Again, for me, at that price point I'd prefer reliability over fast pick-up.

    And for reference, I like high POE hubs and have ridden/own some of the best - but I would just rather not feel my hub is a ticking time-bomb.

    It's totally cool if you own Koozers and love them. You are entitled to you opinion, and if you guys have had good experience with them I'm HAPPY to hear it - I wouldn't wish busted equipment on anyone. But, as you are entitled to you opinion, so am I - and as a fairly experienced wheel builder who's seen them fail in person, it's hard to me to see them positively. I'd never lace them for someone, but I'd have no issue lacing up a set of m8000 xt's - the only caveat being that I would tear them down and make sure things were up to spec before sending them out the door. Not really a luxary you are afforded with Koozers.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  39. #839
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    The koozer freehub lasted much longer than any shimano deore/slx/xt I've ever had. I couldn't disagree with you more about XT being a good budget hub.
    Have you used the current gen m8000 hubs? Or current gen m9000 xtr?

    They are actually quite good, if you can take five minutes to learn to properly maintain them.

    You'll also find pretty good reviews of the current xt and xtr wheelsets, with positive commentary on the hubs if you look.

    I've seen lots of failure in deore/lx/slx/xt in the past too, but not much in the current generation xt however. Much of this was from people not maintaining the hubs properly. Often they come out of the factory poorly adjusted and with very little grease.

    That said, you look like a burly man as I scroll through your posts, and I gather you're going to be hard on just about any hub. If money were a non-issue, I'd say Onxy hubs would be a great fit.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  40. #840
    mtbr member
    Reputation: One Pivot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    8,678
    Im one of the rare few that reliability use shimano hubs. Im also one of the not-rare many that busted a koozer

    I personally like shimano hubs. Ive seen so many failures for other people that its pretty hard to recommend them anymore, I dont know what the deal with the discrepancy is, but it is what it is.

  41. #841
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    18
    Still no reports of failure of the (ratchet) 470's?
    ps My 490 rear hub is still flawless after 2 years of hard use at 170 lbs. Almost makes me nervous.

  42. #842
    mtbr member
    Reputation: One Pivot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    8,678
    Not as many people bought them. We learned our lesson!

    At 72poe, it was worth taking a risk. At 28poe, it's just another low quality Asian hub.

  43. #843
    Is dang happy!
    Reputation: Mr. Doom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,349
    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Not as many people bought them. We learned our lesson!

    At 72poe, it was worth taking a risk. At 28poe, it's just another low quality Asian hub.
    DT 350 has a similar ratchet ring mechanisim and only 18poe unless you upgrade the freehub. The 470 is a completly different hub than the 490. My criteria was cheap and loud for this set of wheels. I will still feel dumb if mine blows up... it will not be the first time I took a chance on kooky asian parts, probably not the last. I will get another Hope if it poops the bed.
    The wheel is a extension of the foot

  44. #844
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Doom View Post
    DT 350 has a similar ratchet ring mechanisim and only 18poe unless you upgrade the freehub. The 470 is a completly different hub than the 490. My criteria was cheap and loud for this set of wheels. I will still feel dumb if mine blows up... it will not be the first time I took a chance on kooky asian parts, probably not the last. I will get another Hope if it poops the bed.
    If the ratchet is made from some good Material I suspect they will be reliable. If soft...

    Why the need for loud. I'll never understand that.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  45. #845
    Is dang happy!
    Reputation: Mr. Doom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,349
    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    If the ratchet is made from some good Material I suspect they will be reliable. If soft...

    Why the need for loud. I'll never understand that.
    I normally prefer quiet hubs but due to the increase of bear activity on the local trails I am looking for the loudest possible. I am more concerned about making noise at speed than enguagment and this hub is twice as loud as my Hope... there is a method to the madness. The BHS mtb270's, XT, Hope pro4 and DT 350 have good track records but are not as loud as the Koozer 470's.
    The wheel is a extension of the foot

  46. #846
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Doom View Post
    I normally prefer quiet hubs but due to the increase of bear activity on the local trails I am looking for the loudest possible. I am more concerned about making noise at speed than enguagment and this hub is twice as loud as my Hope... there is a method to the madness. The BHS mtb270's, XT, Hope pro4 and DT 350 have good track records but are not as loud as the Koozer 470's.
    That has to be the most legitimate reason to have a loud hub yes lol. Bear bells also a great idea.

    I have a 350 with 54T ratched which I find pretty loud also. .Hopes are pretty good also, especially if you just use a light lube instead of heavy grease. 470's to appear loud on YouTube though!
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  47. #847
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    18
    If the ratchet material was soft, they would maybe not be so loud?

  48. #848
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    468
    it doesn't have to be butter soft to suffer in the durability department
    just soft enough to wear quicker and eventually fail

  49. #849
    Srgyoel
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    2
    I just got the xm470 thru hubs shimano driver in the mail, does someone have the measurements for them so I can put in a spoke calculator, I could find the QR measurements but they don't seem to align with mine

  50. #850

  51. #851
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    1
    Hi everybody, i have to replace the bearing for a Hibrid Ceramic bearings for my Koozer XM470, i love this Hubs, but the constantly water, mud and dirty ruin the Front hub so i need to replace the bearings:

    Front bearing code: 2 x 17287-2RS
    Rear bearing codes: I don't know because i only disarm the front hub, the rear is still working but you know is good to know to buy the replacement bearing in advance.

    Anyone knows the codes?.

    Thanks

  52. #852
    mjw
    mjw is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    938
    When you buy bearing for the front, buy some full contact seal bearings. They will have a little more drag initially, but will last way longer.
    • 2019 Banshee Spitfire
    • 2018 Chromag Stylus
    • 2018 Canfield Riot

  53. #853
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    18
    Been riding my 470 hubs for two full -hard days now.
    Only problem I'm having is resistance on the rear freewheeling.
    Tried oil in the hub, and now back to thin grease.
    Hope that this will wear off.
    Can it be that the spring tension on the ratchet is to high.
    Strange enough the hub is not loud at all.

  54. #854
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    1
    i cant recommend the xm 470 to anyone, i mean the rear one, the front is almost smoother and longer spinning then a cone hub, simply amazing. I will post video later if someone interested about the rear its just cant freewheeling...if u pedaling and pulling up your foot working like a fixie if u put back the chain getting loose and dropping between the wheel and the chainstay. So much dirt inside with less then 100 km ride in city with only dry conditions. I fixed it temporarily with removing the red seal, without it works perfectly. So the point is i think never choose this besides hope or dt hubs or any reliable brands hubs

    almost forgot, sry for my english

  55. #855
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    18
    That is what I have: resistance on freewheeling etcetera. I washed it out with gasoline and will run it dry if needed.
    Miss the 72 points, but it sure feels solid in the low gears.

  56. #856
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    18
    The seal is indeed the resistance culprit. Wonder if it just takes up a little too much space. Fix?

  57. #857
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    18
    It looks like the spacer bushing is slightlytoo short?
    A small additional spacer ring fixed it , it seems.

  58. #858
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    18
    It looks like the spacer bushing is slightly too short?
    A small additional spacer ring fixed it , it seems.

  59. #859
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    11

    Koozer BM440

    Anyone try out the Koozer BM440 boost set yet?

    Oh, and does anyone have the front / rear bearing specs so that I could upgrade them?

    Goal: upgrade from the stock ibis738 on my HD4 to a $550ish wheelset w/ MAS2702 Chinese carbon asymmetrical 40mm rim vs. shelling out major (for me) cash on ibis742.

    Another MTBR user has experienced success w/ the MAS2702 AM rim, so I'm considering the DH rim for stupider Norcal / Sierras riding.

    I see here that build quality on the QR Koozers is often questionable, attributed a lot to the axle, so I'm hoping successive generations and going thru-axle on the Boost BM440 set could negate those issues.




    Thanks in advance.

  60. #860
    Land of the 230+
    Reputation: GuitsBoy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    2,477
    I have not tried the boost koozers, and while I feel I got my moneys worth out of my first set of koozers, I'm not keen to buy them again. I moved on to BHS hubs, but once I went boost, even those seemed over priced. I eventually went to SRAM 900 hubs that I bought from worldwide cyclery through ebay, with one of those 15% coupon codes, so I paid about $180 for the pair. They have been bulletproof and really are a big improvement over the koozers, at least the older ones. IMO, If you can swing the extra 70 bucks, you'd do yourself a favor to go with a stronger hubset, unless youre an extreme flyweight.

  61. #861
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2
    I have a bm 440 hub set.
    during a bearing upgrade, unfortunatelly I lost the spacer between the freehub and the rear hub body.

    I have some spare spacers at home 18 x 15 x 0,2 mm.
    Can someone check the dimensions of that spacer so that I know how many of my spare spacers I need to use? Thanks!

  62. #862
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by kurtz433 View Post
    Anyone try out the Koozer BM440 boost set yet?

    Oh, and does anyone have the front / rear bearing specs so that I could upgrade them?

    Goal: upgrade from the stock ibis738 on my HD4 to a $550ish wheelset w/ MAS2702 Chinese carbon asymmetrical 40mm rim vs. shelling out major (for me) cash on ibis742.

    Another MTBR user has experienced success w/ the MAS2702 AM rim, so I'm considering the DH rim for stupider Norcal / Sierras riding.

    I see here that build quality on the QR Koozers is often questionable, attributed a lot to the axle, so I'm hoping successive generations and going thru-axle on the Boost BM440 set could negate those issues.




    Thanks in advance.

    Have not tried them yet.
    But bearings are...

    6902-2RS
    15267-2RS
    17287 -2RS

    each 2 pieces.

  63. #863
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post

    Anyways, I took the hub apart over the weekend to do a couple of checks and here is what I came up with...
    Axle length with caps on SHOULD be 142mm (+/- 1.5mm) and this is what I came up with
    Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

    So I decided to measure the axle itself.....
    Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
    I just want to clarify that the guy doing this measurement does NOT understand how this hub stack is supposed to work

    The endcaps are NOT supposed to be inserted completely on the axle.
    In this type of HUB they are pressed against the inner bearings' rings and holding them together so they do not rotate.


    The stack looks like this:

    1)On the disk side the end cup holds the inner ring of the bearing agains the larger diameter of the axle.

    2)On the drive side the cup holds:
    freewheel outer bearing(inner ring), spacer, freewheel inner bearing(inner ring), washer, hub body bearing(inner ring) against the other larger diameter of the axle.

    So it is completely normal to have a 139 mm measuring. 1.5 mm are left from the axle end to each of the cups, which can be observed from his other picuture.

    This is all supposed to be like this by desisgn.

  64. #864
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Goliath2 View Post
    Thought I would share my Koozer experience. Got a 2015 hub that I have given moderate use over the last 1 to 2 yrs. XC type stuff on a 29er in QR format. Riding the other day the freehub stopped free wheeling and locked up. Rode it home with continuous peddling to find that the axle had snapped where the hub shell meets the freehub.
    Attachment 1118808
    Decided to check out another wheel I had built with a 2016 Koozer. Couldn't get the free hub off by hand. Had to jerry rig a slap hammer with a crescent whacking a partially installed outer few sprockets of the cassette. Once off I found the free hub had been deformed by the pawls indenting the body affecting bearing alignment. This hub had less than 20 hrs use also in QR format. i agree with earlier posts that the axle is flexy and eventually breaks. May not be such a problem if used with a thru axle. For what it's worth I don't think high POE is any practical advantage. I don't notice any real difference between the 72 POE Koozer and my 18 DT swiss (except my DT swiss still works).
    Attachment 1118809
    Note that this hub uses a 1.5 mm thick ALUMINIUM axle with a 15 mm external diameter and 12 mm internal one. It is designed to be used with a 12 mm through axle frame, which, when inserted, will make the axles unit strong enough to be ridden in any discipline(e.g. downhill).

    On the other side if you decide to ride this hub with the QR 10x135 end caps only, without any internal axle, it is just a matter of time until the 1.5 mm thick aluminium hub axle breaks. It might take a while if you have lower body weight. Iit might happen almost immediately if you are heavy and do big jumps.

    In my opinion it is criminal to sell this hub with the QR caps only without an additional inner axle to make it stronger. And it is criminal because it endangers the health of the rider.

    DO NOT RIDE this hub in its QR variant without inserting a strenghtening 12 mm piece of metal - steel or aluminium.

    And yes - I know because I've broken an axle on this hub.

  65. #865
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by ya29er View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20171205_174642.jpg 
Views:	907 
Size:	58.3 KB 
ID:	1170929
    Let me clarify the reason for the shown damage.

    Using this hub in a QR variant with its 1.5 mm thick axle makes the axle bend. Thus the freewheel touches the outer wall.

    This will not happen if you use the HUB with an inner 12 mm axle as the stack becomes stiff enough.

    If you use this hub in on a QR frame you MUST insert a strengthtening 12 mm pipe through its entire lenght - steel or thicker aluminium!

  66. #866
    mtbr member
    Reputation: huckleberry hound's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by deliank View Post
    Let me clarify the reason for the shown damage.

    Using this hub in a QR variant with its 1.5 mm thick axle makes the axle bend. Thus the freewheel touches the outer wall.

    This will not happen if you use the HUB with an inner 12 mm axle as the stack becomes stiff enough.

    If you use this hub in on a QR frame you MUST insert a strengthtening 12 mm pipe through its entire lenght - steel or thicker aluminium!
    None of the other manufacturers that have changeable end caps require this i.e. Hope, DT Swiss. If it is truly required then Koozer needs to include one with the end caps for QR.
    Change begins by doing something different.

  67. #867
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thasingletrackmastah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    432
    I had a Novatec rearhub with exactly the same problem.
    Axle (135 QR) bends, freehub body touches the steel teeth, bearings (already replaced with SKF) wear off real quick.
    Replaced by a Hope Pro2, many years ago, problem solved.

    Now ordered a BM440 for another bike, fingers crossed.
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-03-2014, 08:27 PM
  2. Hope hubs vs Stan's ZTR hubs...when the Hopes are cheaper
    By Watarski in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-12-2013, 08:49 AM
  3. Centerlock Hubs - Better than regular 6bolt hubs?
    By mattsmc43 in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 05-28-2013, 11:46 AM
  4. Anyone prefer freewheel hubs to cassette hubs??
    By vindiggitydog in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 03-20-2012, 12:54 PM
  5. Velocity hubs vs Stan's stock hubs
    By 7Wayne7 in forum Wheels and Tires
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-22-2012, 04:11 PM

Members who have read this thread: 84

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.