Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under $60 - Page 2- Mtbr.com
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  1. #201
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    now this is the bearing that I'm trying to remove

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -12.jpg

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    now this is the bearing that I'm trying to remove

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So, if I'm correct, the axle has a flange in the middle. You would use a rubber mallet to gently tap on the axle and one side bearing should pop out. Repeat for the other side. The video links below were sent to me by "Matt" that works for Reborn (company that makes these hubs).

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oct-egH6CKs
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cqPeEcYHoY

  3. #203
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    thanks poopshute.. will check out the links, do i really need to remove the spokes and rims before i can remove the inner bearings?

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    thanks poopshute.. will check out the links, do i really need to remove the spokes and rims before i can remove the inner bearings?
    Lol... nope! You can do this w/out completely blowing up your wheel. The basic idea is to make sure the Axle is free and has room to "slide out" with the bearing. A vice that's not compressed all the way is a good tool for the job. Use different size sockets from a socket wrench set and the same rubber mallet to press new bearings into place.

    Again, I'm not completely sure this is how the bearings come out but from first glance of my hub, it appears to be the only way. There's nothing threaded on the axle so it has to simply be held in by the pressed bearings.

  5. #205
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    will try removing the inner bearings if ever rain started pouring down, while it is not raining, i'll go out and use the other bike... thanks for the quick reply.. i really appreciate it..

  6. #206
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    now this link that you gave me seems to be the best match for the koozer hubs 6 pawls

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oct-egH6CKs

  7. #207
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    this link also looks like a good guide

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpjSclC0STQ

  8. #208
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    The second one you posted is a slightly different design where the entire axle comes out with the freehub. The first link is more inline with the design of our hubs.

  9. #209
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    Would you mind providing a quick how-to on how you removed the bearings from the freehub body? Also, when you get the bearings out of the hub, can you let us all know how it went?

    Planning on upgrading my bearings next season.

  10. #210
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    hi all

    just found out about this hubs, and I will like to know if anyone has use them for Freeride or Downhill?

    also, how are holding up the ones around? any problems with them?

    thanks a lot

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by leon78 View Post
    hi all

    just found out about this hubs, and I will like to know if anyone has use them for Freeride or Downhill?

    also, how are holding up the ones around? any problems with them?

    thanks a lot
    There's quite a few of using these hubs and no one has posted any issues so far. I ride aggressive XC that leans very much in the AM category. Lots of climbing and I tend to hit/jump over obstacles instead of ride around them on my 26er. Had a bee minor crashes as well. Both the hub and the new wheel build (I'm only rocking the rear) are holding up great.

    I don't know what makes a hub downhill compliant but I can tell you these hubs come in QR and 15mm (front)/142x12 (rear) through axles designs. The axle is also aluminum.


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  12. #212
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    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -asdf.jpgayt here are some pics, took me several hours to complete the task as i wanna take my time and be careful with the bearings and hubs.. will test ride the bike next time

    i forgot to take a picture of the retainer ring, like a washer on the axle ratchet side, you have you use thin metal to pry it out

    1. remove the end caps by using 2 pcs 5mm allen key ( i think it was 5mm )
    2. pull out the free hub body by doing counter clockwise motion
    3, remove the bearings on the freehub body, just, toggle the spacer and gently tap the bearing and it will fall off
    4. remove the retainer or washer like metal ring on the axle you can check both sides to be sure, but i removed the one on the ratchet side
    5. use rubber mallet gently tap the axle, i chose to hit the rotor side first, once out use the axle to remove the 4th bearing

    now i used different kinds of sockets from my socket wrench set, and a threaded rod to act as a press tool, cost me $1 USD

    havn't tried riding my bike, since i also removed BB, cranks, pulley, rotors, rollers, general check up and clean up after a grueling ride on the mountain, trails, mud, heavy rain..

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11732042_10153459001844431_1908019021040225626_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11741040_10153459007424431_3676314459789042173_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11754936_10153459012284431_6875684105960859037_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11792136_10153459010884431_4547933318077910118_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11794302_10153459014054431_400056152450664767_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11794382_10153459017189431_3905463602681630234_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11794488_10153459003954431_3935853902128435372_o.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -11807147_10153459015789431_5805527995102833205_o.jpg

  13. #213
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    the first picture with the red circle like line, that was the retainer that you need to remove, really hard to notice the ring

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    So you will have to give us a ride report after you have ridden with the new bearings. Wondering if it would be worth it to just replace the bearings right off with something like SKF or NAICHI bearings (they really don't cost all the much on eBay).

  15. #215
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    Thanks for the pics and write-up. I have a few questions that hopefully you can clarify:

    1.). When you say "toggle spacer" and gently tap the freehub body, are you saying to just remove the loose spacer ring and then tap the freehub body itself on a hard surface to let the bearings fall out? Are they not pressed in?

    2.). You mention a retainer ring on the axle. Will the ring dislodge itself when you use a mallet against the axle to force the bearings out? Meaning, is there really a need to remove this ring prior to tapping the axle with a mallet?

    Thanks again for posting your tear down. This is going to help a lot of people here!


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  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So you will have to give us a ride report after you have ridden with the new bearings. Wondering if it would be worth it to just replace the bearings right off with something like SKF or NAICHI bearings (they really don't cost all the much on eBay).
    yup will definitely give a report or update after my test ride, but all i can say is that the axle moves smoothly when i tried spinning it by hand, unlike before i can really feel that the bearings were like rough and somewhat like grinding..

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Thanks for the pics and write-up. I have a few questions that hopefully you can clarify:

    1.). When you say "toggle spacer" and gently tap the freehub body, are you saying to just remove the loose spacer ring and then tap the freehub body itself on a hard surface to let the bearings fall out? Are they not pressed in?

    2.). You mention a retainer ring on the axle. Will the ring dislodge itself when you use a mallet against the axle to force the bearings out? Meaning, is there really a need to remove this ring prior to tapping the axle with a mallet?

    Thanks again for posting your tear down. This is going to help a lot of people here!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    step # 3 is to toggle the spacer or move the spacer so you can see the inner ring of the bearing, then gently tap the bearing, i used long allen key to pry it out, i don't intend to use the old bearings to for me it is okay to tap on the inner ring of the bearing


    retainer / ring - i think you will have a hard time if you use axle to force the bearings out without removing the retainer or ring

    i just wish that i can record or video shoot the process, but i don't have a digital cam only a xiaomi phone, and got no one to help me out with the video shoot

    the next time i hit the trails, will definitely open up the hubs and shoot a video

    +++++++++++++++

    now my problem is the front hub, this one i think is much harder, as i can't remove both end caps

    the axle doen't have hex key slot or can't use allen keys to act as a counter for you to remove the next end cap

    OR DO I JUST remove one end cap and use mallet??

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by gotdurt View Post
    Success! Koozer 9mm QR fr hub converted to 15mm thru-axle via Stan's end caps...

    Attachment 995473

    All that was needed was a few seconds each on the flat side of the grinder (maybe .5mm each), and they slipped right into the fork. The OD of the o-ring is *slightly* small so they will come out of the bore under their own weight dry, but a touch of grease holds them well. A slightly thicker o-ring could also do the trick, if it isn't too much. Either way, they'll do the job until Koozer comes out with the kit.
    @gotdurt

    did you do just a direct install with the stans endcaps onto the hub? Did you change out the axle?

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    step # 3 is to toggle the spacer or move the spacer so you can see the inner ring of the bearing, then gently tap the bearing, i used long allen key to pry it out, i don't intend to use the old bearings to for me it is okay to tap on the inner ring of the bearing


    retainer / ring - i think you will have a hard time if you use axle to force the bearings out without removing the retainer or ring

    i just wish that i can record or video shoot the process, but i don't have a digital cam only a xiaomi phone, and got no one to help me out with the video shoot

    the next time i hit the trails, will definitely open up the hubs and shoot a video

    +++++++++++++++

    now my problem is the front hub, this one i think is much harder, as i can't remove both end caps

    the axle doen't have hex key slot or can't use allen keys to act as a counter for you to remove the next end cap

    OR DO I JUST remove one end cap and use mallet??
    Are you sure the end camp is threaded on? My 142x12 rear has end caps that are simply held on by small washers. The QR holds everything together.


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  20. #220
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    Anyone have info regarding XD drivers for this hub? Any other brands (Novatec) have one that might be compatible?
    Dirt Merchant Bicycles
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  21. #221
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    Looks like the bearings are the exact same used by DT Swiss, found that you can buy a set of bearings for a DT Swiss hub rebuild for about $15. Not sure if they are better than SKF/Nachi/etc. bearings but thought that was interesting.

    Pretty sure I am going to pick one of these up this fall and build it into a wider rim (possibly a 27.5+ rim for my 29er). If I do I will plan to replace the bearings first off.

  22. #222
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    @Forcemajeure

    I couldnt find why you changed the bearings in the first place. Had they given out or did you just change to better quality bearings preemptively?

    Cheers

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Are you sure the end camp is threaded on? My 142x12 rear has end caps that are simply held on by small washers. The QR holds everything together.


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    I'am also not sure, but i think you are right the end caps on the front hub is not locked on the hub, only on the axle, so if i remove the other end cap, i could just gently hammer out the axle and it should be ok.. will re-check if my front bearings need some replacement

    i think the only need to be regrease or check if there's any dirt or anything that gives a rough spin, i just tried spinning the axle after our trail ride and it is really hard to spin, but i appliead some grease and will check next time

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    @Forcemajeure

    I couldnt find why you changed the bearings in the first place. Had they given out or did you just change to better quality bearings preemptively?

    Cheers
    i forgot my reason why i wanted to change the bearings..

    a short story.. bought the koozer september 2014 been using them on roads and light trails..

    now come july 26, i used them on heavy trails, dh, mud, rain and everything..

    I checked my bike and hubs the next day, and found out that the axle on rear and front hubs are quite hard to spin by hand..

    so went on and opened up rear hub, found some dirt, sand, water on the hub..
    tried spinning the axle and it was a lil bit rough not really smooth..

    i think the old bearings can still be used, but we ride on no bail out zones, can't afford to lose a bearing while riding

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Determinants View Post
    I need information about shops here in Philippines who sell koozer hubs.
    Nabili ko yung saakin s "wiley's bikeshop"(search mo nlng s FB) pwede meet-up s sta. Cruz church 4.5k lng

  26. #226
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    Just laced a rear koozer 72 POE QR to a carbonbicycle rim. Used sapim laser and brass nipples. Total weight is 810 grams before taping.

    It sounds, sweeeeeezzzztttt!! Wheel feels great. Havent had a chance for a real test ride yet.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -dsc_5787.jpg

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -dsc_5783.jpg

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -img_3787.jpg

  27. #227
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    had a small ride with the koozer new bearings on rear hubs, ride was only at 10kms on road only

    and i think it runs well, rear hub still smooth, but will try them out next time on trails

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Looks like the bearings are the exact same used by DT Swiss, found that you can buy a set of bearings for a DT Swiss hub rebuild for about $15. Not sure if they are better than SKF/Nachi/etc. bearings but thought that was interesting.

    Pretty sure I am going to pick one of these up this fall and build it into a wider rim (possibly a 27.5+ rim for my 29er). If I do I will plan to replace the bearings first off.
    This is just my opinion but if you're going to replace the bearings, why not go with something nicer like an Enduro ceramic bearing? They're double the cost but will perform better. Just my $.02.

  29. #229
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    Also... normal store bought mineral oil doesn't stay put in these hubs. I had the fluid leak out after one ride. Sure, some of the oil staid on the pawls but over the counter mineral oil is too light. Trying Dumonde Tech freehub oil. Hope this stuff works as it's pricey!

  30. #230
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    for me I'm using top 1 synthetic lithium hi-temp grease as BB, hub, headset lubricant

  31. #231
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    I just purchased a set of WTB frquencu i23 29" rims and I need to get black spokes and red nipples. I'm going to use the Koozer hubs...what size nipples did you use and spokes?

    Quote Originally Posted by abelfonseca View Post
    Finished building a set for a friend, red koozer hubs, sapim race, stans arch. Here are some pics and hub sound video.

    Attachment 983828

    Attachment 983829

    Attachment 983830

    Attachment 983831

    https://www.facebook.com/uberwheels/...type=3&theater

    Cheers

  32. #232
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    Spokes and nipples go through Dans Comp for single cut, single purchase ability. Comp style spokes are common but heavier but also easiest to build with.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmdog View Post
    I just purchased a set of WTB frquencu i23 29" rims and I need to get black spokes and red nipples. I'm going to use the Koozer hubs...what size nipples did you use and spokes?
    In my research, I found that DT Swiss comp spokes are the go-to spokes for wheel builds. They make chrome and black. Maybe get DT Swiss comp spokes and red nipples from a different source (like Dans Comp)? Sorry I don't have size information. I had a local shop build my wheel for me.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    This is just my opinion but if you're going to replace the bearings, why not go with something nicer like an Enduro ceramic bearing? They're double the cost but will perform better. Just my $.02.
    Right but I have not found anything in my limited research that suggests that they are markedly better than a quality steel ball version for justification in the price. Plus I am not a weight weenie so the slight increase in weight is nothing I am concerned about. Granted I haven't done a whole lot of research but in this type of application there really isn't a "need" for ceramic ball bearings at close to/or more than the cost of a quality steel.

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Right but I have not found anything in my limited research that suggests that they are markedly better than a quality steel ball version for justification in the price. Plus I am not a weight weenie so the slight increase in weight is nothing I am concerned about. Granted I haven't done a whole lot of research but in this type of application there really isn't a "need" for ceramic ball bearings at close to/or more than the cost of a quality steel.
    Word... Each to his own. I'm sure the bearings you buy will be sufficient.


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  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Word... Each to his own. I'm sure the bearings you buy will be sufficient.

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    So I am curious, why do you feel that the ceramic bearings would be better? Like I said, I have not done a whole lot of research on it but I am curious as to your opinion why they are worth double the cost?

  37. #237
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    same here i want to switch to ceramic bearings on hubs and BB but i can't find any seller in philippines

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmdog View Post
    I just purchased a set of WTB frquencu i23 29" rims and I need to get black spokes and red nipples. I'm going to use the Koozer hubs...what size nipples did you use and spokes?
    When you get those bad boys built up post the pics, specs and the weights if you could. I'm considering the exact same setup.
    Please donate to IMBA or your local IMBA chapter. It's trail karma.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    So I am curious, why do you feel that the ceramic bearings would be better? Like I said, I have not done a whole lot of research on it but I am curious as to your opinion why they are worth double the cost?
    I come from a roller hockey background. Each wheel used a pair of cartridge bearings and we tried to get the highest ABEC rating possible with the least friction possible. Back then ceramic bearings were just being introduced and were not affordable. With inline skates, you could feel the difference in high quality low friction bearings vs. cheapos. I'm just using that experience and translating it to the biking world. I want my wheels to spin as smooth and fast as possible. Investing a few bucks more for bearings I'll keep around for a while (with proper maintenance) is worth it to me.

    I installed an enduro ceramic BB a year ago and my crank free-spin was night and day compared to the stock shimano BB.

    But, would you feel a difference let alone care? Totally up to you. I'm a techy-gadget guy. Like the latest and greatest as long as it's within my budget.


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  40. #240
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    less maintenance for ceramic bearings.. and rust proof, my vote goes to ceramic as well

  41. #241
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    Ok see what I was read was that the ABEC rating only really applies to super high rpm situations. This is something that what I was reading is more for high speed machinery or vehicles, not bikes.

    With the advancements in technology the ABEC 3/5 bearing that are steel are same surface consistency as ceramic bearings. But yes the ceramic do not rust, but for me I do not live in a super wet area for riding.


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  42. #242
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    Bike hub store has the MTB180 / MTB270 Disc Hubset 15mm thru and 12x142 on sale now for $135 & free shipping...any opinions on these?

  43. #243
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    There's an active thread about the BHS hubs http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/...bs-948757.html
    I have 2 rides on my BHS mtb270. So far so good, nice hub.

  44. #244
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    $135 for the BHS hubs is a great price. I've got both, posted my opinion in this thread: Koozer vs BHS. I will add that the Koozer is a hell of a lot louder than the BHS MTB270.

  45. #245
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    koozer 6 pawls much louder than my Circus Monkey HDW3

  46. #246
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    i replaced my front hub bearing a week ago and, all i need to do is remove i end cap, use rubber mallet to hammer down the axle and was able to remove them without issues,

    same method on installing new bearings, i used d.i.y bearing press, same size of bearings

    bearings on freehub body does have a different size

  47. #247
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    does anyone know the koozers weight?
    they looks very interesting

  48. #248
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    I measured 201 g front, 304 g rear for the QR versions, without skewer.

  49. #249
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    thanks

  50. #250
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    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer-hub-ha02n-ha04n-mtb-bicycle-hub-keanho-1508-15-keanho%402.jpg

    koozer's weight with skewers

  51. #251
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    Ah,bummer, I see the 142x12 thru axle hub is NOT 6-pawls 72 POE but only 3-pawls

    Koozer 72HD HA02N HA04N Hubs CNC Aluminum 2 4 Bearing 32h Through Axle QC Hub | eBay

    Other sellers don't mention it... anyone has the thru axle version?

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    Ah,bummer, I see the 142x12 thru axle hub is NOT 6-pawls 72 POE but only 3-pawls

    Koozer 72HD HA02N HA04N Hubs CNC Aluminum 2 4 Bearing 32h Through Axle QC Hub | eBay

    Other sellers don't mention it... anyone has the thru axle version?
    Try this one (seller Revmega).

  53. #253
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    bearings on koozer hubs much easier to replace than the circus monkey hdw3

  54. #254
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    Just got a reply from revmega that the thru axle hubs are convertible to QR. If anybody is interested.

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by drakche View Post
    Just got a reply from revmega that the thru axle hubs are convertible to QR. If anybody is interested.
    good to know.
    does the conversion involve a different axle or just endcaps? and do they sell a conversion kit? can't see it listed.

  56. #256
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    just endcaps. 10$, they are not listed. you need to contact him and pay the 10$ separately, and he will ship them

    Also spare freehubs are 20$.

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by drakche View Post
    just endcaps. 10$, they are not listed. you need to contact him and pay the 10$ separately, and he will ship them

    Also spare freehubs are 20$.
    ah... too late, he already shipped my hub. may have asked before

  58. #258
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    you can contac him and he will ship ou adaptors only

  59. #259
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    thnx, will do if i'll need them

  60. #260
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    Ok so had my Koozer hub now for awhile built to Arch EX rims. It engagement is amazing very impressed. Bit heavier than my DT240, louder and bearings not as smooth. I think if you changed out bearings on the Koozer to some higher end bearings of think it is a great hub for the money and can't be beat. I will upgrade to SKF bearings when mine need replacement otherwise just ride it for now.

  61. #261
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    I learned today that a batch of 12x142 hubs received axles with an incorrect ID tolerance (less than 12mm). I contacted Matt/Revmega and he had a replacement hub sent my way same day. I'm thoroughly impressed by both the hub and customer service! It's a real eye opener that Reborn is able to turn a profit on these hubs after both ebay fees and shipping from China!
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  62. #262
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    I sent a email to Revmega. I wanted to see if he sold 12x142mm end caps. He told me you can't go from QR to 12x142mm, But only 12x142mm to QR. But the newer hubs should be able too.

  63. #263
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    For those that have had the rear hubs for a while, how are they holding up for you? I had an obnoxious creak develop a couple of weeks ago, coming from the rear of the bike under load... checked all of the pivots, looked for cracks in the frame, etc and eliminated the frame as the problem... don't see any obvious external cracks in the hub body, but I swapped wheels with my other bike and the creak followed the wheel, with no creaks on the original bike now. The 2nd bike is a single speed, so it wasn't in the cassette, and I didn't see any visible external issues on the freehub when switching. I guess the next thing will be to tear the hub down when I have time and see if I can find anything, meanwhile I'll continue to ride it in hopes that it becomes a little worse and thus more visible. Maybe I'll get lucky and find that it's a bearing issue...

    Anyway, hoping maybe if any others are experiencing the same/similar problem, we might be able to nail it down.
    'T'is only a flesh wound...
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  64. #264
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    You might have loose spokes on the rear wheel.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    You might have loose spokes on the rear wheel.
    That was actually the first thing I checked when I moved on to the rear wheel, but all was good; it doesn't sound like a typical spoke pop/creak though.
    'T'is only a flesh wound...
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  66. #266
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    https://m.facebook.com/wileybike/pho...pe=3&source=56

    Guys Koozer now have 15mm front tru axle

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    https://m.facebook.com/wileybike/pho...pe=3&source=56

    Guys Koozer now have 15mm front tru axle
    I think they had the 15mm front thru axle for awhile now.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    https://m.facebook.com/wileybike/pho...pe=3&source=56

    Guys Koozer now have 15mm front tru axle
    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    I think they had the 15mm front thru axle for awhile now.
    Correct. In all colors too. They've had 15mm versions for quite some time now. Just ordered and received a red one myself. My rear 142x12 6-pawl version is still going strong after a full Summer of riding 3-times a week. Impressive for the cost. Love them so far!

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Correct. In all colors too. They've had 15mm versions for quite some time now. Just ordered and received a red one myself. My rear 142x12 6-pawl version is still going strong after a full Summer of riding 3-times a week. Impressive for the cost. Love them so far!

    Sorry .my bad... is it good for AM or aggressive ride?? Coz the 9qr one say its for XC ...i'm planning to put it on our giant trance

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Sorry .my bad... is it good for AM or aggressive ride?? Coz the 9qr one say its for XC ...i'm planning to put it on our giant trance
    I ride my trail bike pretty damn hard. I would consider my riding style aggressive XC and a little AM. I tend to go through/over things instead of ride around them. Tend to bottom out my suspension and all that jazz. Anyways, after a few crashes, the rear hub is still holding up great. I have to muscle up some semi-technical stuff too and the hub has never slipped or given way. I'm very impressed for now. The hubs are very easy to service as well. Everything comes apart very logically and replacement bearings are easy to obtain. For the price, it's kind of a no-brainer. You can buy multiple backup-ups of the Koozer hubs for the price you'd pay for one mid-high end hub... not that you'd need to.

  71. #271
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    I was going to grab a set of these hubs to build up a wheelset for my cx bike but it doesn't look like they are shimano 11spd compatible yet?

  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by iheartoregon View Post
    I was going to grab a set of these hubs to build up a wheelset for my cx bike but it doesn't look like they are shimano 11spd compatible yet?
    Shimano 11sp is the same freehub body as 9/10.

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acme54321 View Post
    Shimano 11sp is the same freehub body as 9/10.
    11s mtb (11-40 or 42 cassette) is the same, but 11s road cassettes (up to 11-32) will not mount on 9/10s freehub body.

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    11s mtb (11-40 or 42 cassette) is the same, but 11s road cassettes (up to 11-32) will not mount on 9/10s freehub body.
    Yeah, I missed the whole CX part of it LOL.

  75. #275
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    I have now logged about 500kms on my rear koozer hub. I have ridden it in the wet, sandy, muddy, dry etc. conditions and several creek crossings (with water level below the hub) and it has operated smoothly so far. I decided to take the hub apart today after a 70 km ride to see how everything was looking. I am very happy with what I saw.

    The negatives: Some scoring due to the cassette digging in. This can be prevented by using a higher quality cassette (xt). I had to pry (carefully) a couple of the cogs off with a screwdriver.

    The good: Grease on the pawls and over the bearings looks very clean. There was no sign of water or dirt under the seals. The pawls look in very good condition. Bearings still spinning very smoothly. Smoother than when new actually. Internal seals look very good. No play on the freehub body, or anywhere else. The hub appears to be very well sealed.

    Some scoring on the freehub body by cheap cassette (deore)
    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer-500km.jpg

    Pawls in perfect condition as far as I can tell.
    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer2-500km.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer3-500km.jpg

    Grease clean and clear. No water or dirt contamination.
    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer4-500km.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozer5-500km.jpg

    Except for the second picture of the zoomed pawl, all were taken before cleaning. Since I had taken it apart, I decided to go ahead and clean the grease an applied some phil wood oil. Now the angry bees have quieted down :-(

    Cheers

  76. #276
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    Question regarding 10 speed cassetee

    I was wondering if I can use 10 speed cassette on this hub and more specifically for the 40-11 set(17T replacing cog). I will be buying it soon Thanks!

  77. #277
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    it is possible for the 10spd for the 11spd not really sure

  78. #278
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    yes you can use 10 speed and shimano mtb 11 speed.

  79. #279
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    That's great! Thanks! I'm still debating on whether i should get Sram X9 or this hub. But I don't like the idea of 12 POE. Don't know if the Koozer is gonna stand my type of riding which is enduro/freeride

  80. #280
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    I currently am riding wtbi23 on x9 hubs. The x9 hubs have held up well for me with all mountain riding, and I weight 235lbs. With my gear. I am building a new wheel set and am considering this hub set also. I love the high engagement but durability is the most important factor for my build. I really can't see any bad feedback online but I would love some feed back from people that are putting these hubs through jumps, steeps, mud and everything else that is truly fun about mountain biking.

  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobdog31 View Post
    I currently am riding wtbi23 on x9 hubs. The x9 hubs have held up well for me with all mountain riding, and I weight 235lbs. With my gear. I am building a new wheel set and am considering this hub set also. I love the high engagement but durability is the most important factor for my build. I really can't see any bad feedback online but I would love some feed back from people that are putting these hubs through jumps, steeps, mud and everything else that is truly fun about mountain biking.
    Probably put over 1000 km's on mine this season, all trail riding, no maintenance, often riding in the pouring rain. Jumps, yes, steeps, yes. I try not to ride muddy trails, but they have seen a lot of dirty standing water.



    I'm 180 lb without gear, but they probably get more of a beating since it's a hardtail. Trail in the photo is Comfortably Numb descent in Whistler.

  82. #282
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    How are these hubs holding up for everyone? I saw they new have complete wheelsets but I don't know how good the rims are.

    Koozer XM 650B 27 5" MTB Wheelset Wheel 32h 72HD Click Noise 4 Bearings Hub Set | eBay

    Also has anyone built up a 27.5 (650B) wheel yet? I am thinking about getting these hubs with the nuke proof DH rims but I have no clue on spokes

    Nukeproof Generator 275 DH Rim 2015 | Chain Reaction Cycles

  83. #283
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    no regrets on my Koozer hubs, yeah they are made in china, but so far still rolling

  84. #284
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    Mine spin great so far aswell. Seems drag has diminished more with use.

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    I learned today that a batch of 12x142 hubs received axles with an incorrect ID tolerance (less than 12mm). I contacted Matt/Revmega and he had a replacement hub sent my way same day. I'm thoroughly impressed by both the hub and customer service! It's a real eye opener that Reborn is able to turn a profit on these hubs after both ebay fees and shipping from China!
    What issues did this produce? Was the through-axle not able to go through? How did you find out about this issue?

  86. #286
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    @forcemajeure hey nice to see you here too i see you often in pinoymtbiker.org, do you have any idea if the shops at manila already sell 12x142 rear hub versions?

  87. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    @forcemajeure hey nice to see you here too i see you often in pinoymtbiker.org, do you have any idea if the shops at manila already sell 12x142 rear hub versions?
    zemper,

    sorry i dont have any idea about the 12x142, koozer in phils now cost a lot more,
    more demand i guess...

  88. #288
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    has anyone tried the koozer hubs with the star ratchet/CK copy

    KOOZER MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600

    Koozer MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600 Hub Disc 7 EZO Bearing Front Rear MTB QR | eBay

    Seems to one of the few 24 hole 142x12 hubs I can find.

  89. #289
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    Cool find KevinNZ! Looks new though, I doubt many would have had experience with this one. Lighter than the existing Koozers it seems.

    edit: darn, a 15TA + 12x142 set is about US $160. Kinda expensive for a relatively new product.

  90. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinNZ View Post
    has anyone tried the koozer hubs with the star ratchet/CK copy

    KOOZER MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600

    Koozer MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600 Hub Disc 7 EZO Bearing Front Rear MTB QR | eBay

    Seems to one of the few 24 hole 142x12 hubs I can find.
    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    Cool find KevinNZ! Looks new though, I doubt many would have had experience with this one. Lighter than the existing Koozers it seems.

    edit: darn, a 15TA + 12x142 set is about US $160. Kinda expensive for a relatively new product.
    Yeah, great find! I'm going to contact the seller to see if they ever plan on making a 32h version. If you (or anyone) picks one up, please do post feedback. A star ratchet/clutch version for that price is pretty killer! Looks like similar tech as a Chris King at a fraction of the cost.

  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinNZ View Post
    has anyone tried the koozer hubs with the star ratchet/CK copy

    KOOZER MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600

    Koozer MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600 Hub Disc 7 EZO Bearing Front Rear MTB QR | eBay

    Seems to one of the few 24 hole 142x12 hubs I can find.
    Just contacted a Reborn rep. 32 hole clutch/ratchet version will be coming out soon. It will utilize the conventional j-spoke holes which will be easier for a wheel builder to measure out spokes. Too bad I have a fairly new pawl version! Although, I couldn't be happier with the pawl version. It's still running strong.

  92. #292
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    Oh man, that's both good and bad news... currently trying to upgrade my stock 27.5 wheelset and torn between Koozer and Bitex hubs... J-spokes are good news as these are the most common spokes available here. hope that they make it soon, can't wait to build a proper 27.5 wheelset!!!

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    Oh man, that's both good and bad news... currently trying to upgrade my stock 27.5 wheelset and torn between Koozer and Bitex hubs... J-spokes are good news as these are the most common spokes available here. hope that they make it soon, can't wait to build a proper 27.5 wheelset!!!
    You'll definitely be a guinea pig with these new hubs. I'm sure they'll work great as this Chinese company is really trying to take a bite into the hub market. However, this new hub hasn't been tested much and their current 72 poe pawl version has been ridden by many people, myself included, with great results. I don't think you can go wrong with either version but you'll sure to be happy with their current version. If you do end up going with their ratchet/clutch version, please post up here!

  94. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinNZ View Post
    has anyone tried the koozer hubs with the star ratchet/CK copy

    KOOZER MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600

    Koozer MCS 24H Straight Pull Hub XR1600 Hub Disc 7 EZO Bearing Front Rear MTB QR | eBay

    Seems to one of the few 24 hole 142x12 hubs I can find.
    No 32 holes for this new hub?

  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    No 32 holes for this new hub?
    Lol. Dude. Read... Three to four posts up.

  96. #296
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    Is the mechanical clutch that big an upgrade compared to the pawls? I guess I don't ride hard enough to destroy my freehubs. Still, is it worth holding out for?

    I love the look of the straight pull hubs, but 24 spokes just isn't cutting it.

  97. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Is the mechanical clutch that big an upgrade compared to the pawls? I guess I don't ride hard enough to destroy my freehubs. Still, is it worth holding out for?

    I love the look of the straight pull hubs, but 24 spokes just isn't cutting it.
    The whole idea behind the clutch/ratchet hubs is based around strength. Pawl versions usually have about half the pawls engaged at any given time (so 3 speaking of the Koozer hubs). With a clutch system, all "teeth" are engaged whenever you pedal. There's a VERY low chance of ever "spinning" a clutch/ratch hub. Ok, with that said, I ride my bike pretty hard. I weigh about 210 fully geared and haven't had a skip or a failure in my pawl version hub. Yeah, the clutch/ratchet system looks awesome and I may have held out for it if I hadn't already bought/installed/ridden the entire season the pawl version. Reborn (the people who make these hubs) state that the 32H version of the clutch hub will be a j-spoke design. I actually prefer that as the straight pull spokes are not readily available and the lengths are very specific to the hub dimensions. J-spokes are very readily available and sizes are fairly standard with a few measurements of the hub. I guess the straight-pull design is supposed to be stronger since there's no bend but with some high quality spokes like the DT-Swiss comp j-bend spokes, you should rarely (if ever) break a spoke unless you hit it super hard on something.

    I do agree that the straight pull design is pretty sweet looking.

  98. #298
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    Yeah, I googles and found http://www.rbn.hk/?lang=en and I knew what you meant by reborn rep. Did they give you any inkling as to the time frame or the price? I assume it going to be priced similarly to the straight pull version that's out now. The 93 dollar price point is what makes these things so appealing, but once you get close to doubling that, theres many other options, though none that include a mechanical clutch as far as I know.

    I hear the straight pull are a ***** to get started as well, since they just spin and spin and spin. Maybe in a few more years theyll become more prevalent...

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Yeah, I googles and found http://www.rbn.hk/?lang=en and I knew what you meant by reborn rep. Did they give you any inkling as to the time frame or the price? I assume it going to be priced similarly to the straight pull version that's out now. The 93 dollar price point is what makes these things so appealing, but once you get close to doubling that, theres many other options, though none that include a mechanical clutch as far as I know.

    I hear the straight pull are a ***** to get started as well, since they just spin and spin and spin. Maybe in a few more years theyll become more prevalent...

    If you look for the seller "revmega" on eBay, he's a legit Reborn rep. He goes by Matt. Contact him for any information. He didn't give me a timeframe but I also didn't push for one since I'm not really in the market to buy one. I do agree that I think the price will be close to what the 24h version is. There's no way they would sell as many of these hubs as they do if they were anywhere near the price of comparable hubs that can be bough in the US. I really don't see it being anywhere near $200. I'm assuming it'll be in the $120 ball park which for a clutch system hub is a pretty great deal. Even their 6 pawl 72poe hubs they currently sell for $60 is a really damn great bargain for what you get. A comparable hub with anything near 72 POE is going to cost you at least $150.

  100. #300
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    Wow, already a new hub and clutch design! And Japanese bearings. Never heard of them (EZO) but the Chinese NBK bearings are meh.

    Still waiting on a XD driver though. A couple weeks has turned into a couple months, oh well.
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  101. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    Wow, already a new hub and clutch design! And Japanese bearings. Never heard of them (EZO) but the Chinese NBK bearings are meh.

    Still waiting on a XD driver though. A couple weeks has turned into a couple months, oh well.
    Yeah, replacing the stock NBK bearings in mine with some enduro ceramics over the Winter months. The NBK bearings have been doing well but I hear they're nothing great.

  102. #302
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    So, my 10 ride old Koozer hub had a total freewheel failure to day, got towed down from the trails by my mate. Utterly disappointed. Need to take it apart and contact Revmega, but the little that was left of my sesson is ruined :/ Maybe the old saying "you get what you pay for" is still king

  103. #303
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    Gutted. Have well over 100 rides on mine with no issues. Post pics when you get it apart.

  104. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parapax View Post
    So, my 10 ride old Koozer hub had a total freewheel failure to day, got towed down from the trails by my mate. Utterly disappointed. Need to take it apart and contact Revmega, but the little that was left of my sesson is ruined :/ Maybe the old saying "you get what you pay for" is still king
    Finally! Our first failure. It's inevitable. There's always going to be a failed unit out if any mass-produced product. I don't agree with the slogan you used in this case as you're the first person to report on MTBR of a failed koozer hub. Lots of riders here have been using this hub with zero problems.

    Regardless, this still sucks for you and I'm positive revmega will help you out. Please do take pictures once you pull it apart.

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    Will do, trying to contact every one i can think of to get some sort of replacement so i can get back on the trails again. Lovely autumn weather in Norway at the moment.

  106. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Parapax View Post
    Will do, trying to contact every one i can think of to get some sort of replacement so i can get back on the trails again. Lovely autumn weather in Norway at the moment.
    Contact revmega tell them about the failure and include pictures. So far, my experience with their costumer service has been awesome. I have built about 5 wheelsets with these hubs, two of which I personally ordered the hubs including one for personal use.

    You are not alone with this, one of the hubs I built failed recently, one that had very little use with very mild xc riding. One of the bearings of the freehub body broke. The outer metal shell literally broke in pieces. This caused the freehub to go out of alignment and fail causing it to freewheel on both directions, damaging it beyond repair. I suspect that bearing was defective from the get go, no amount of human force applied on bike should be able to break a bearing like that. The other hubs have performed flawlessly.

  107. #307
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    pics would be helpful for those of us still in the fence in getting this hub. not knocking on your misfortune, but could you at least post your weight, bike, and riding style? that would help most of us here in assessing the strengths and weaknesses of this hub. hope you can get yours warrantied.

  108. #308
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    Which one would you recommend guys: Koozer HA04N 12x142 or Novatec D772SB-X12 12x142 ? I will be using it mostly for AM and light DH not so much for aggressive riding. The D772SB has 4 paws though.

  109. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    pics would be helpful for those of us still in the fence in getting this hub. not knocking on your misfortune, but could you at least post your weight, bike, and riding style? that would help most of us here in assessing the strengths and weaknesses of this hub. hope you can get yours warrantied.
    These are a couple of pictures of the failure I was describing in the previous post. As you can see the bearing's outer race broke and the inner race got stuck in the axle. At first I though the axle had deformed because I could not slide out the inner race. I had to use a thick flat head screwdriver and some leverage to inch it out. It took some time but I was finally able to free it. To my surprise, I tried putting on the free hub body from another koozer hub and it slid in and out fine and worked smoothly. This means the axle remained intact and what actually got deformed was the inner race!

    Revmega stood behind their product and took care of the issue. Excelent costumer service!! I think there could have been a factory defect with this bearing. I can't see how an industrial bearing would fail this way from cycling loads. Or maybe they can? As you can see, the grease was in good shape, little sign of contamination.

    I will still be building and recommending these hubs. My other koozer has worked flawlessly and has been treated much more harshly and for much longer than this one that failed. I think this was a fluke and I feel confident in revmegas after sales service. I heard they have changed the bearing brand recently, so that could solve this issue for good. I am think of changing the bearings to skf on my other hub just for peace of mind.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -img_5189.jpg

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -img_5186-1-.jpg

  110. #310
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    much better for new koozer hubs, replace the bearings right away with japan made bearings

  111. #311
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    This may have been posted already but does anyone know the bearing sizes for both the 15mm front hub and the 12x142 rear hub?


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  112. #312
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    I only have the rear 142x12 so don't know bearing size for front



    15267 2rs



    6902 2rs


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  113. #313
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    Thanks, dude! Very helpful.


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  114. #314
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    Thanks for the info. Is it worth changing out the freehub bearings or is that not as necessary?

  115. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Thanks for the info. Is it worth changing out the freehub bearings or is that not as necessary?
    I'm doing all four. Why not, ya know? They're all spinning the same amount. Going the ceramic hybrid route which will be a bit pricey with the two extra freehub bearings. About $200 to get all six bearings replaced with good quality ceramics.


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  116. #316
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    Oh man, what a kick in the wallet. I realize nobody likes to rebuikd wheels over and over, but the bearings are twice the price of the hubs themselves. I'll probably stick with standard Japan made bearings if the stockers seem suspect.

    As for the freehub spinning as much as the others, that may be true, but they're certainly not carrying the same load as the axle bearings. But I guess I could be talked into either direction.

  117. #317
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    Putting $200 worth of bearings in a $100 hub. Someone explain the logic to me.

  118. #318
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    Well I guess you'd be hard pressed to find a set of ceramic bearing hubs for 300 bucks.

    But then again, I never understood ceramic bearings for bike applications. I always thought they were for high heat and high rpm applications like turbines. I don't think they're any higher precision than quality steel bearings. Anybody able to explain the advantage?

  119. #319
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    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under $60

    To be honest, the more I think about it, spending $200 for new bearings does seem pretty damn steep. Anyone know of a good source to buy decent quality Japanese bearings?

    Also, I believe these hubs are worth more than what they're being sold for. Going straight to the source (a Chinese source at that) has made these hubs cheaper than they would ever be if sold by a reputable big-name company.

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  120. #320
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    You can give amazon a try or your local hardware or bearing supply store.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -image.jpg

  121. #321
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    I've seen vxb.com suggested in the past, however I dont have any experience with them personally. Ebay and amazon may be a less expensive alternative if you can find quality bearings you trust.

    And incidentally, heres an informitive post / article about cermaic bearings and their use in mtb applications.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/weight-weenie...ml#post7179285

  122. #322
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    $200 for bearings is steep on a $100 mountain hub. The bearing tolerances are only as good as the hub's.

    SKF, F.A.G., and INA are my go to bearings.
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  123. #323
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    Dirty word filter got you. I assume that was F. A. G. bearings?

  124. #324
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    So my hubs came in, and theres a chunk missing from one of the flanges on the rear hub.

    Do you think its anything to be worried about? Yes, its noticeable, but it doesnt seem like it would be a structural issue.

    Do you think its worth contacting the seller about? Or is this simply to be expected for a chinese product at this price point?


    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -img_0811-large-.jpg

    Just wanted to get your opinions on the matter.

  125. #325
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    Also, my bearing sizes for the were as follows:

    Front 15x100 Thru Axle
    NBK 6804-2RS
    NBK 6804-2RS

    Rear 12x142 Thru Axle
    NBK 6902-2RS
    NBK 6902-2RS

    6 Pawl Freehub:
    Tekino 15267RS
    Appears to be same size Tekino 15267RS (Unverified due to rubber seal)

  126. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Also, my bearing sizes for the were as follows:

    Front 15x100 Thru Axle
    NBK 6804-2RS
    NBK 6804-2RS

    Rear 12x142 Thru Axle
    NBK 6902-2RS
    NBK 6902-2RS

    6 Pawl Freehub:
    Tekino 15267RS
    Appears to be same size Tekino 15267RS (Unverified due to rubber seal)
    I'd like to confirm these sizes. Checked on my setup as well. Thanks for the info!

    Regarding the chunk missing... It seems mostly cosmetic from the picture you posted. Definitely unfortunate. If you're willing to be patient, I'm sure revmega from rbrn can make it right. Otherwise, I'd recommend taking it to a bike shop to get their opinion. My guess is it will be fine.


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  127. #327
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    I contacted the seller, sporttide. He was extremely quick to respond to both messages. I asked if he felt it was a structural issue or anything that might cause a problem down the road (even though I'm confident it does not pose a threat). He forwarded the image on to the manufacturer (probably revmega), and then replied confirming it should not be dangerous, but if I wanted to send it back, they would be happy to replace it.

    I'm very happy to see that they were willing to replace it, but since I'm terribly impatient by nature, and that this is a $60 hub, I think Ill just run it as is.

    The seller's helpful response far outweighs the slight cosmetic defect.

  128. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    I contacted the seller, sporttide. He was extremely quick to respond to both messages. I asked if he felt it was a structural issue or anything that might cause a problem down the road (even though I'm confident it does not pose a threat). He forwarded the image on to the manufacturer (probably revmega), and then replied confirming it should not be dangerous, but if I wanted to send it back, they would be happy to replace it.

    I'm very happy to see that they were willing to replace it, but since I'm terribly impatient by nature, and that this is a $60 hub, I think Ill just run it as is.

    The seller's helpful response far outweighs the slight cosmetic defect.
    Good stuff. Are you having a shop build your wheels? If so, a second opinion from them wouldn't hurt either.

  129. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    pics would be helpful for those of us still in the fence in getting this hub. not knocking on your misfortune, but could you at least post your weight, bike, and riding style? that would help most of us here in assessing the strengths and weaknesses of this hub. hope you can get yours warrantied.
    Will take it apart this weekend and post some pics. The hub in itself is inexpensive, but getting the wheel laced is not, at least not where i live. Hoping its a issue that can be fixed without rebuilding the wheel. I`m 94kg, the bike is a 2012 Kona Honzo 29", and i ride woodland trails and fire roads, nothing endurolike.

  130. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Good stuff. Are you having a shop build your wheels? If so, a second opinion from them wouldn't hurt either.
    I'm building the wheels myself. I haven't build a set of wheels in a decade or so, and last time they were 20 inch, but I read up and figured I'd take a stab at it on a cheap wheel build for my secondary bike.

    Having spent a fair amount of time around CNC machines, I know exactly what happened here. The casting ran short, or wasn't indexed correctly when they put it on the machine, and as the endmill cut the flange, it just ran out of material in that one spot. It wasnt a dent or chip due to impact. I'm confident its purely cosmetic, and its probably only .020 or .030 deep anyway. Not sure if they simply didn't notice it, or they just didn't care. Either way, it happened before the anodizing and printing process. I don't see an abrasion risk, but I will try to index it so the spokes face away from the section in question just the same.

  131. #331
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    I ended up opting out of getting ceramic bearings due to the cost. Enduro bearings makes a high quality steel bearing with Abec 5 rating. All 6 bearings cost me $70. Still a little pricey but nowhere near the $200 it would've costed for ceramics. I'll post up install pictures once I get around to swapping the bearings out.

  132. #332
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    so far I installed HCH bearings on my koozer, HCH made in china bearings - WTH??

    can't find any japanese made bearings, I checked out HCH and they do have a website, so far it is still doing great, but next time will definitely get skf or jap type bearings

  133. #333
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    If you don't want to replace all the bearings or you want to wait till they fail, I would recommend to at least change the bearing on the pawl side of the freehub body. It appears that that is the bearing subjected to the most stress, and if it fails, at least the way mine failed, it could mess up your hub for good.

    As you can see in the pictures, once the bearing's outer race broke, the pawls did not have adequate support so the pawls cracked and deformed the freehub body.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -image2.jpg

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -image3.jpg

  134. #334
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    thanks for the Pic abelfonseca,

    will definitely replace my hch bearings, will hunt for japs

  135. #335
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    Laced up my wheelset last night. Took just about an hour on the couch, while my 18 month old son stole spokes and nipples to chew on. I still have to dial in the dish, tension, and true, but so far so good.

    Weight came in at 1816g combined (867 f / 949 r) with 100x15 / 142x12 Koozers on WTB ST i19 rims. A little skinny, but not bad for $170 all in.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -20151117_204908.jpg

  136. #336
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    Anyone know RevMega's or any of the other sellers direct email? I'm thinking of getting a complete XM29 rear wheel laced to the 12x142 72poe hub.

    Also, does anybody have official hub measurements of these hubs?
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  137. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Anyone know RevMega's or any of the other sellers direct email? I'm thinking of getting a complete XM29 rear wheel laced to the 12x142 72poe hub.

    Also, does anybody have official hub measurements of these hubs?
    Revmega usually responds extremely quickly on ebay. You should shoot him a message.

    You also have the measurements on RevMega's post on ebay.

  138. #338
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    I just got revmega's email.

    deals(@)revmega(dotcom)

    KOOZER HA02N/HA04N 6 Pawls 72HD Bicycle Hub Disc Bearing 32H
    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -%24_57.jpg
    142mm Rear
    wR 34.74 mm
    wL 22 mm
    OLD 142 mm
    dL 59 mm
    dR 59 mm

    Do I have that right?
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  139. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Laced up my wheelset last night. Took just about an hour on the couch, while my 18 month old son stole spokes and nipples to chew on. I still have to dial in the dish, tension, and true, but so far so good.

    Weight came in at 1816g combined (867 f / 949 r) with 100x15 / 142x12 Koozers on WTB ST i19 rims. A little skinny, but not bad for $170 all in.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    awesome! what spokes and nipples are you using? that weight is respectable considering how relatively heavy (for an 19mm iw) the rim is.

  140. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by zemper View Post
    awesome! what spokes and nipples are you using? that weight is respectable considering how relatively heavy (for an 19mm iw) the rim is.
    Thanks man. I used Sapim db spokes from Dan's comp, and 12mm dt swiss alloy nips from eBay. The rims were 460g a piece, and only 20 bucks per.

    Between me and a buddy that rode the bike, there's onky about 10 miles on the wheels so far, but they're performing well. I have a big 2.4 xking up front despite the narrow wheel, but its working well. My only issue is the less than 1/8 clearance in the rear against the converted 26 inch frame. I might try a 2.0 saguaro tire instead of the 2.2 geax aka.

  141. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Thanks man. I used Sapim db spokes from Dan's comp, and 12mm dt swiss alloy nips from eBay. The rims were 460g a piece, and only 20 bucks per.
    What was cost for the spokes and nipples?

    $170 for front and rear rims laced up seems super cheap. That $93 for hubs, $40 for rims, and $37 for spokes and nipples. Am I reading that right?
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  142. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    What was cost for the spokes and nipples?

    $170 for front and rear rims laced up seems super cheap. That $93 for hubs, $40 for rims, and $37 for spokes and nipples. Am I reading that right?
    Spokes themselves are 29 bucks from Dans plus $8 shipping (72 spokes, I wanted a couple extra) and I snagged a deal on the nipples for 8 bucks. Rims were from bikewagon, with a now expired 20% off coupon code. So yes, $170 plus the $8 shipping all in.

  143. #343
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    So is everyone changing the hch bearing immediately? Is it necessary? I bought a set of the xd1700 in 24h for a 24" wheelset, but now thinking I should have went with the xd1600 with ezo?

  144. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erock503 View Post
    So is everyone changing the hch bearing immediately? Is it necessary? I bought a set of the xd1700 in 24h for a 24" wheelset, but now thinking I should have went with the xd1600 with ezo?
    No. I think the consensus is that no one is a huge fan of the stock Chinese bearings. However, we have only seen one failure of the freehub body bearings. I was proactive and jumped the gun changing out all of the bearings in both the front and rear hubs after only one season. Inspecting the stock bearings after removal, they still had plenty of life left and were still fairly smooth when rotating them. I went the Enduro route (still Chinese made) and hopefully they'll hold up for a while.


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  145. #345
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    on my koozer HCH was not the stock bearing, i replaced the stock bearing, and installed new HCH bearings ( hch still china made ), had to replace the stock bearing since it was not rolling smooth, no jap bearing available that time so decided to go with hch china

    here is the website of hch bearings

    HCH Bearing

    seems like a big company?

  146. #346
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    I ordered a set of the 15mm/142mm through axles hubs and I am going to lace them up to a set of 27.5 DT Swiss FR570 rims with DT Swiss Champion spokes and alloy nipples. I will post pics and report back once they are built. I have the exact same set up on my other bike except I am running Hope Pro 2s

  147. #347
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    Hey Guys,

    Completed a full replacement of all 4 rear bearings on a rear hub and a the 2 bearings on a front hub. The front hub was very straight forward. The rear is a little trickier but is still straight forward. A couple tips: for the rear hub, remove the blue spacer and the metal ring before hammering out the o-rings with the axle. The pawl side bearing on the actual hub was very hard to remove just by hammering. I ended up pressing it out with a makeshift press (some nuts and washers and a threaded rod). The free hub bearings will need to be hammered out with a punch. There's no way to press these out. As mentioned in an earlier post, move the spacer (with your finger) that sits in between both bearings. Use a punch and a hammer to hammer out the old bearings. You'll most likely damage the bearing doing this so make sure you only do this if you're going to replace the bearings. You might be able to get away not damaging these bearings if you're careful and patient. Anyways, I can post a few pictures upon request. The good thing is at least two of us in this thread have completely rebuilt these hubs with all new bearings. Use us as a reference.

  148. #348
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    yes please post pictures for reference

  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forcemajeure View Post
    yes please post pictures for reference



  150. #350
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    Ok. I cant take the talk anymore. I found some rims I couldn't pass up. With some Dan's comp spokes and these hubs I will be building a set over winter for fun. I don't even need wheels. But with the cost I will end up with it is worth it to cure my curiosity and stop wondering how these hubs will ride. I consider it the cost of therapy.

    WTB I23 29" ($16 each shipped)
    Dans comp spokes ($40 w/shipping)
    Koozers ($90)

    $162 built and ready to ride. Cheap therapy.

  151. #351
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    Thats a good deal man. Rims are kinda heavy though, but who cares for 16 bucks a pop. You can offset the weight of the wheels by upgrading to lasers, but its up to you if you can justify the added cost. I'd love to have gone with lasers, but not at my weight.

  152. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjmtb1 View Post
    Ok. I cant take the talk anymore. I found some rims I couldn't pass up. With some Dan's comp spokes and these hubs I will be building a set over winter for fun. I don't even need wheels. But with the cost I will end up with it is worth it to cure my curiosity and stop wondering how these hubs will ride. I consider it the cost of therapy.

    WTB I23 29" ($16 each shipped)
    Dans comp spokes ($40 w/shipping)
    Koozers ($90)

    $162 built and ready to ride. Cheap therapy.

    Nice! Good luck on the wheel build! I'm sure you'll love these hubs especially if you're coming from a run-of-the-mill shimano hub. Two things got me to pull the trigger on these hubs:

    1.) I was running a shimano rear hub and I absolutely DESPISE the cup/cone/loose ball bearing design. It is the most obnoxious thing to dial in right when rebuilding the rear hub. Either you have too much play or you have pitting because you tightened the cone nuts too much. Finding the sweet spot is near impossible.

    2.) I converted from QR axles to 15mm/142x12 solid axles.

    Can't be happier with my decision. I will give you one warning, when pulling the free hub out, be careful as the pawls and springs tend to come out. When putting the free hub back in after maintenance, don't force it in there. Push it down, gently, as far as it will go, then use a pick or something to push all the pawls down (they'll stay down because they'll grab the rubber seal) then push the free hub in the rest of the way. I was a bit impatient once and didn't realize one of the pawls and springs had come out while re-installing the free-hub. Ended up slightly warping one of the springs (still works and was able to straighten out the spring again).

  153. #353
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    Where the heck are you guys finding these rims so cheap?
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  154. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Where the heck are you guys finding these rims so cheap?
    Bikewagon with 15% off coupon code I assume.

  155. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    Bikewagon with 15% off coupon code I assume.
    Yep. That's where I got them. No shipping charge either. I bought 4. I only need 2, actually one but then the front and back wont match. That might be too much for me to handle.

    I know they are a bit stout but so am I. At 205 before gear I am not worried about a some grams. Plus, homebuilt wheels make me feel fast and make me smile.

    I have a set of Arch/American Classic on my geared bike and factory built American Classic SS on my SS. This set will be used to convert my SS into a 1x10 for the days I feel like it. I didn't want to add another wheelset with a 1x10 group so this is what I came up with to justify more wheels I don't need.

    The American Classic's roll so free. It seems like I always outcoast others I ride with but the engagement suks. The Koozers will be my test for POI and see how much difference it makes.

  156. #356
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    What length spokes did you use with the i23/Koozer rear hub?
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  157. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    What length spokes did you use with the i23/Koozer rear hub?
    I havent ordered spokes yet. I will be using dans comp. I have built many wheels with their spokes so I just know where I will buying from and how much it usually is.

    It is winter in WI so there is no hurry. I will wait until I feel trapped in the house, crack some beer, and get to work. I have until April to finish them.

    I will use the dimensions that are on the previous page, measure ERD, and use a spoke calculator. Easy Peasy.

  158. #358
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    Very glad I found this thread. In need of some cheap decent hubs fairly quickly, and have gone with the 15mm / 142x12 set.

    Only thing bothering me is spoke length I need to buy now, as the rims I am fitting them to are asymmetric (WTB Asym i29 - 27.5") so not sure if that makes a difference when it comes to trying to figure it all out?!

  159. #359
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    I got my hubs and I have to say I am impressed with the quality so far. I am going to start building up my 27.5 wheels today so I will post pics when I am finished.

    I am using the 15mm front, 142mm rear 6 pawl, DT swiss FR570 wheels, DT Swiss Competition spokes, and DT Swiss alloy nipples

  160. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtMerchantBicycles View Post
    Still waiting on a XD driver though. A couple weeks has turned into a couple months, oh well.
    Any further word on this? Thinking about picking some of these up to build w/ some LB rims, don't need the xd driver currently, but would prefer a little bit of future-proofing if possible.

  161. #361
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    Wish they made a 170/ 135 for fatbike


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  162. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by funnyjr View Post
    Wish they made a 170/ 135 for fatbike


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    same here waiting for koozer to produce hubs for fatbike

  163. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poopshute View Post
    Just contacted a Reborn rep. 32 hole clutch/ratchet version will be coming out soon. It will utilize the conventional j-spoke holes which will be easier for a wheel builder to measure out spokes. Too bad I have a fairly new pawl version! Although, I couldn't be happier with the pawl version. It's still running strong.
    any update on the 32h clutch version?

  164. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    any update on the 32h clutch version?
    Sorry, haven't reached out to reborn as I'm not actively looking to buy this version.


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  165. #365
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    Here they are

    27.5 DT Swiss FR570 Rims
    DT Swiss Competition Spokes with alloy nipples
    Koozer 142mm/15mm Through axle 6 pawl hubs

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -2ad9c7d5-2d74-4010-8c2a-76f6c182365a.jpg

  166. #366
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    Any updates on the qr version being convertible. QR to 15x100 and 12x142. I believe the Hope pro evo 2 can do this.

  167. #367
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    Hey guys. New to this site but have been curious about these hubs for a while.
    Read loads of the info on here and have dropped Revmega a message as I'm wondering if they'd be strong enough for All Mountain/Enduro use.
    Cheers for all the info! Real help having a forum like this for un known products

  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bryn52 View Post
    Hey guys. New to this site but have been curious about these hubs for a while.
    Read loads of the info on here and have dropped Revmega a message as I'm wondering if they'd be strong enough for All Mountain/Enduro use.
    Cheers for all the info! Real help having a forum like this for un known products
    Hey there,

    I'm not sure what your definition of All Mountain or Enduro are. If you're wondering if these hubs can handle the speed and impact of hard hits, they have been working fine for me (I recently rebuilt them with new bearings and no axle bending). If you're wondering if they can climb up technical stuff without skipping a beat, same thing. They've held up quite nicely for the entire season. Couple videos linked below of the type of riding I do on them (might need to scroll in a few minutes on the Betasso one):

    Betasso
    Hall Ranch

  169. #369
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    Hey gyus.
    I'm curious is it possible to make 135*12 endcaps for this hub?

  170. #370
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    I wish Koozer would come out with a 20mm fully convertible front hub and a 32 hole clutch- rear.

  171. #371
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    I'll add Boost to that wish list.

  172. #372
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    They won't produce anymore clutches hubs as they are too complicated. They are going to a star-ratchet style hub with 32 holes. Should see it mid-year.
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  173. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    They won't produce anymore clutches hubs as they are too complicated. They are going to a star-ratchet style hub with 32 holes. Should see it mid-year.
    Did you get this from the source (Reborn)? Also, I thought the star-ratchet style and clutch style were the same thing.

  174. #374
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    Yes I got picture of the revised mechanism prototype from RevMega.

    It does look different from the existing "clutch" mechanism they have on the ebay posting. At least from what I can tell.

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -%24_57.jpg

    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozerstarratchet2.jpgKoozer hubs, 72 POE @ under -koozerstarratchet.jpg

    I asked RevMega if the ratchet rings would be replaceable with no reply.
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  175. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Yes I got picture of the revised mechanism prototype from RevMega.

    It does look different from the existing "clutch" mechanism they have on the ebay posting. At least from what I can tell.


    I asked RevMega if the ratchet rings would be replaceable with no reply.
    Awesome! Thanks for the helpful posts! The original design looks very much like a DT Swiss/Chris King style hub. The redesigned version looks much simpler where they'll just add a spring to keep the two plates together. It'll be interesting how reliable it will be.

  176. #376
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    With no prior knowledge or understanding, it would appear the design up top forces the ratchet teeth together under load, and pulls them apart when coasting / back pedaling. The bottom design looks like it would require a spring to keep the ratchet teeth pushed together. Seems like it would have to be a fairly robust spring, which might lead to drag when coasting. Hopefully thats not the case, or at least so small an effect its imperceptible.

  177. #377
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    Sorry to derail a bit with the current subject matter but it looks like Reborn has QR quick release end caps for their current straight-through hubs (142 x 12 rear and 15mm front).

    Koozer HA02N HA04N Hub Parts Convert Kit Adapter from thru Axle to Quick Release | eBay

  178. #378
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    Has anyone discovered a cheap 30+mm internally wide rim option to pair with these hubs for a sub-$125 rear wheel? or $200 wheelset?

    While the chinese are making oodles of wide carbon rims, they don't seem to be doing the same with normal alloy variants.
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  179. #379
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    I'm counting 28 teeth on that second ratchet, so 28 POE then?

    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Has anyone discovered a cheap 30+mm internally wide rim option to pair with these hubs for a sub-$125 rear wheel? or $200 wheelset?

    While the chinese are making oodles of wide carbon rims, they don't seem to be doing the same with normal alloy variants.
    I imagine a wide alloy rim that cheap would be pretty terrible for strength and/or weight? But I would also have said nobody would make a hub this good for the price, so who knows...

  180. #380
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    can't wait to hear the sound of the new koozer with MCS, anyone with links?

  181. #381
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    Anyone with a time line on the fancy new CK style hub? ?

    Sent from my SM-T110 using Tapatalk

  182. #382
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    Would bearings sold by Enduro be an upgrade to the ones in the Koozer?

  183. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by cerebroside View Post
    I'm counting 28 teeth on that second ratchet, so 28 POE then?
    I did the same.
    28POE is pretty disappointing, I don't care how good the mechanism is.

  184. #384
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    Enduro bearings are well respected, so I would think they would be a good upgrade.

    As for the POE, yes, its a bit disappointing, but at least its not 16 or 18 POE.

  185. #385
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    Koozer 72 POE HUB creaking [solved]

    Quote Originally Posted by gotdurt View Post
    For those that have had the rear hubs for a while, how are they holding up for you? I had an obnoxious creak develop a couple of weeks ago, coming from the rear of the bike under load... checked all of the pivots, looked for cracks in the frame, etc and eliminated the frame as the problem... don't see any obvious external cracks in the hub body, but I swapped wheels with my other bike and the creak followed the wheel, with no creaks on the original bike now. The 2nd bike is a single speed, so it wasn't in the cassette, and I didn't see any visible external issues on the freehub when switching. I guess the next thing will be to tear the hub down when I have time and see if I can find anything, meanwhile I'll continue to ride it in hopes that it becomes a little worse and thus more visible. Maybe I'll get lucky and find that it's a bearing issue...

    Anyway, hoping maybe if any others are experiencing the same/similar problem, we might be able to nail it down.
    I had this exact same issue, was driving me nuts. I checked everything but the creak was still there. After establishing that the noise still occurred when I put the hub under load using the pedals with the disc brake locked up, I decided the issue was in the hub and not the spokes (as I previously assumed). I removed the seal that covers the ratchet/pawls and used my finger to pack more grease in. After replacing the seal the hub actually sounded quieter and the creak was gone

  186. #386
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    Reading through the thread, it looks like the axles are flexing excessively, tilting the freehub body into the hub body. I think they need to beef up their axle.

    I was on the fence and considering one, but from this thread it looks like its not going to be a long term durable hub.

  187. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    Reading through the thread, it looks like the axles are flexing excessively, tilting the freehub body into the hub body. I think they need to beef up their axle.

    I was on the fence and considering one, but from this thread it looks like its not going to be a long term durable hub.
    While its fresh in your mind, is it also true that this was only a problem with the QR hubs and that the 142x12 would likely be better based on the additional stiffness provided by the thru axle?

  188. #388
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    Has already been resolved the problem of the paws soft support?

  189. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Has anyone discovered a cheap 30+mm internally wide rim option to pair with these hubs for a sub-$125 rear wheel? or $200 wheelset?
    Have you checked out the new easton arc rims? They come in 24, 27 and 30 mm internal width flavors. They are not exactly cheap (about 90 a pop), but much cheaper than cheap carbon. They have been receiving pretty good reviews.

  190. #390
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    +1 on the Easton Arcs. Got them for $79 ea. I just built up a set using the Koozer 72 HDs for my Ragley mmmbop. Since it is a hard tail I can tell these are pretty stiff and have taken abuse as I am learning that I am not on a FS anymore.

    Compared to my last build with BHS hubs and Nextie 30mm hoops I am very pleased. Seemingly Just as stiff and the Koozer hubs have better engagement.

    We shall see if they hold up all year though.

  191. #391
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    Do I need to replace the Bearings as soon as I get these HUBs? Can they handle my 250lbs?
    :ciappa: Bike~less :ciappa:

  192. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    Do I need to replace the Bearings as soon as I get these HUBs? Can they handle my 250lbs?
    I would replace the bearing on the pawls right off the bat. The rest I would use them till they failed.
    Last edited by abelfonseca; 01-14-2016 at 09:39 PM.

  193. #393
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    My hubs have arrived. X12/15QR.
    They look nicely built. Measured weights are 205gm/299gm which is quite reasonable.
    Rear hub (not free hub) bearings feel a little stiff, but all others are smooth. Good amount of clear grease used in assembly. I will run them as is, but have replacement bearings on hand if they don't free up in the first few rides.
    I'm building them up with new OOZY Trail345 rims and Sapim D-Light spokes.

  194. #394
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    Weird question but has anyone experienced the surface where the rotor mounts being slightly uneven causing the rotor to not sit properly inside the brake caliper? At first I thought it was the fork or adapter so I had both of those faced and its still slightly off.

  195. #395
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    Ok guys, i want some of these, but I think i will replace the pawl bearings off the bat.

    I looked in the thread and did not see the pawl bearing sizes and qtys. could someone please post.

    Also- if anyone has 15mm front bearing sizes and QR rear bearing sizes. Thanks

  196. #396
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    I am going to buy these hubs too, and my idea is change the pawl bearings too, so I'd appreciate some info about this. Thanks!

    Enviado desde Tapatalk

  197. #397
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    Bearing sizes for 72POE hubs with 15QR and 142x12

    15mm front:
    Model: 6804, Size: 32*20*7mm, Count: 2pcs
    ==========
    12x142mm rear:
    Model: 6902, Size: 28*15*7mm, Count: 2pcs
    Free hub: model:15267RS, size is 15*26*7mm
    Count: 2pcs

    All the above info is directly from Revmega. He's very responsive to questions.

  198. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by abevern View Post
    Bearing sizes for 72POE hubs with 15QR and 142x12

    15mm front:
    Model: 6804, Size: 32*20*7mm, Count: 2pcs
    ==========
    12x142mm rear:
    Model: 6902, Size: 28*15*7mm, Count: 2pcs
    Free hub: model:15267RS, size is 15*26*7mm
    Count: 2pcs

    All the above info is directly from Revmega. He's very responsive to questions.
    Great thanks! I'll ask them directly about the 135x10 then.

    Enviado desde Tapatalk

  199. #399
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    Koozer hubs, 72 POE @ under $60

    Anyone know where I can get that blue washer that sits against the pawls? Mine cracked and caused a pawl to pop out. Other than this the koozer hub has done me well.

  200. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breitness24 View Post
    Anyone know where I can get that blue washer that sits against the pawls? Mine cracked and caused a pawl to pop out. Other than this the koozer hub has done me well.
    Have you tried asking where you bought it from? Revmega? I'd be interested to know the response.

    The problem with a lot of the off-brand kit is that it's hard to get small parts. I'd guess that the blue washer comes as part of a replacement freehub, which I recall being available somewhere.

    It's possible (likely?) that the blue bit is a standard size and would be available through other channels - maybe a bearing shop?

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