Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs

    First it was XT, then King, the DT 240s.
    And it has stayed DT 240s since 2003.
    My only regrets were selling some 240s on old bikes. Should have transplanted them to new bikes. They are too good to let go.

    But- they aint cheap. And they aint getting any cheaper.
    I'm buiding a knock off Asian CX frame (Miracle Bikes) so thought I'd recycle some bits, and find new cheap items for others. An experiment.
    I know what a DT hub does year after year after year. It works all the time. Press a new bearing or 2 in and you're good to go.

    But- they aint cheap.
    What hubs are cheap? Crappy hubs are cheap. And heavy. And not versatile.
    What hubs are cheap? Light? And can accomidate any axle I want?
    BikeHubStore.com hubs. Specifically the MTB270 and 180 (front/rear disc thru axle) hubs.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs-image.jpg

    How cheap? $60 for the front, $100 for the rear.
    A quick Google tells me that 240s are about $230/$330 for their F/R hubs.
    Oh- you work at a shop? Get a deal? That'll help take the edge off.

    How light? On my scale- 180g for the front, 285g for the rear. A bit heavier than the DTs. About 25g per pair. That's less than one ounce per a pair heavier. An iPhone 6 weighs about 4.5 ounces. Just a thought.

    One ounce is worth it, to me, to save so much $$. That $$ can pay gas to get me to a new area to pedal. It'll use the Amtrak to get me, GF, bikes, and gear to Canada.
    To me, it's worth it.

    Durability?
    Don't know yet. I do see that you could pull the cassette w/ free hub (6 paws, high engagement) to replace spokes on the drive side easily (if you were touring in some bizarre place).

    But I've taken them apart a bit, and there's really not that much to fail. Of course, flanges and hub shells can split and crack. Time will tell.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs-image.jpg
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs-image.jpg

    If you see me limping along on the side of the road w/ a non-functioning Asian cheap part project under my arm, please pick me up.

    Not USA made, not bling, won't match your anodized nipples and headset. Won't impress your friends. No included sticker to put on your Sprinter van or VW TDI.
    But- seemingly a great cheap hub.

    Time will tell.
    Last edited by Johnny Chicken Bones; 02-10-2015 at 02:56 PM. Reason: to add photos
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  2. #2
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    Great review. Make sure you continually update this thread once built and spinning.

    Looks like they have pretty high engagement.

    Could be a great alternative if reliable.

  3. #3
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    Very interested to hear how they work out for you. BHS opened their shop location less than 5min from my house not too long ago - I've been meaning to go by there. I'm not giving up my Kings, but it might be a good low cost option to point people towards.

  4. #4
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    I bought these hubs at the beginning of the year, and I'm getting them put on a set of WTB rims. My LBS guy said "they look like Stan's hubs" and didn't have anything negative to say about them on first inspection. My build isn't done yet so I can't comment yet on how they ride, but they sure do look and feel better than the sram and xt hubs i've had before.
    Last edited by matadorCE; 02-10-2015 at 05:00 PM.

  5. #5
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    They will be laced up shortly to a pair of WTB Kom rims. Not sure if I'll lace w/ the tried and true DT Super Comp spoke or use the cheaper (in the spirit of this build) Pillar spokes.
    Then will be run tubless w/ WTB Nano 40s on a SS CX thru axle freak show build.

    Stans eh? Interesting. They seem similar to several makes. I'll need to study some STans hubs for comparison.
    Just had the F hub a bit apart Have no idea how I'd pop the bearings out to replace them. The R is pretty straight forward.
    Please keep us posted on your resutls, I'll do the same.
    JCB
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  6. #6
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    I like your tone. but a sprinter? Not around these parts. They must have doubled up on TDIs.

    Anyway, Ive heard nothing but good things about those hubs. Good luck with them.

  7. #7
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    The BHS MTB270 is a sleeper...

    Fully convertible (12x142, QR, etc)
    SRAM XD compatible
    54POE
    278-285g
    $100

    Oh, and replacement freehubs are $45-50... vs $90 for DT

    BHS is a great company to work with and I've ended up very happy with every transaction I've had with them.

    To date I've bought:

    1 MTB180
    4 MTB270's

    I currently run MTB270's on the rear of both of my bikes (SRAM XD on one, 1x10 with Wolftooth 42T on the other)

    I have noticed that the MTB270's freehub is 'harder' than other freehubs I've used in the past. It's still alloy, so a SRAM cassette will dig in, but they survive better than other freehubs I've used.

    I'd definitely recommend XT cassettes for the MTB270 (and really any alloy freehub).
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  8. #8
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    Just did a search for Stans hub info. Definitely similar but not quite the same but I only looked at the 3.3 hub.
    I'd love to know any other brands that these are sold under. Please don't tell me they are the same as American Classic.....
    Even if AC have improved, I don't want to relive a complete failure on the Maah Daah Hey in 2004.
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  9. #9
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    They are Bitex MTR12 and MTF 15/20
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  10. #10
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    Oh, and they use Enduro bearings
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  11. #11
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    I've got a couple of the MTB270 myself and there the best hub out there for a 100 bucks...here's the cassette at 1500ish miles
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-bhs-hubs-service-2000mile-001.jpg

  12. #12
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    Bitex! Definitly.
    From a quick search they are identical.
    Are there any other makes slapping their stickers on the Bitex hubs?

    A sleeper. Well said. That seems very accurate.

    The bearings are TPI, not Enduro, at least that's what's printed on the side of these.
    I've pressed Enduro bearings into BBs and DTs and trust them. TPI? Never heard of them. Will know more in time I suppose but have no reason to doub them. They sure look like Enduro.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    They will be laced up shortly to a pair of WTB Kom rims. Not sure if I'll lace w/ the tried and true DT Super Comp spoke or use the cheaper (in the spirit of this build) Pillar spokes.
    Then will be run tubless w/ WTB Nano 40s on a SS CX thru axle freak show build.

    Stans eh? Interesting. They seem similar to several makes. I'll need to study some STans hubs for comparison.
    Just had the F hub a bit apart Have no idea how I'd pop the bearings out to replace them. The R is pretty straight forward.
    Please keep us posted on your resutls, I'll do the same.
    JCB
    I went with Super Comps for my front wheel and I was able to reuse the Comps from the sram x7 hub that came on the i23 wheels to the BHS/Bitex rear hub.

  14. #14
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    If their MTB hubs are anything like their road hubs, you will have many years of trouble free enjoyment. I've got several sets with many thousands of miles with zero maintenance.

  15. #15
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    What is the quality of the pawls and springs/leafs under the pawls? Hard to tell from the photos I've seen.

    I have broken the leaf springs in my hope hub, but have put thousands of miles on them (4-5K miles?).

    I've grown accustomed to a higher engagement hub and I need 11s road cassette compatibility so that I can swap the wheels with my cross bike, this hub seems to fit the bill as long as the pawls and springs seem of high quality.
    Don't hate on the minivan!!!!!!!

  16. #16
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    Hokie-
    I was wrong. Well, partially wrong any way.
    I pulled the rear hub apart when showing it to a co-worker. The freehub definitely has Enduro bearings. No idea why they are using TPI in the hub shell, and Enduro in the freehub.

    GFisher-
    I don't have much of an idea about the paw springs. They are little compression springs on the 6 paws.

    I know that a compression spring is pretty long lived if it's compressed along it's normal axis. Expansion springs can fail faster.
    I'd be pretty surprised if these springs end up being a problem.
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  17. #17
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    Subscribed. Thanks for taking the time post your impression and inside pics of these hubs. I am looking to pick up a set myself when I get back from my mtb trip next week! Was set on getting some DT 350's for new wheel build, but can't bring myself to pay $100 more for the little 36t rachet upgrade on those.
    Ride On!

  18. #18
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    I like to set a pair of these on a scale next to the 350s.
    Sure seems like their weights are very comparable.

    I ran the higher engagement on my 240s for a few months.
    Chipped all the teeth in the higher engagement star rings. Now I'm back to the usual and all is well. Has been since 2010 when I swapped back.

    Been running the same 240s since 2008 on two mountain bikes. Love them.
    If these BHS hubs work even close to as well, for this low low price- well hell. It might be a while until I can justify the $$ for 240s again.
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  19. #19
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    I wish I had seen this a few weeks ago. I've also been running DT Swiss 240s hubs and love them. But I'm building up a set of carbon wheels and could not justify $600+ for the 36 POE 240s hubs when the carbon rims were only costing me $150 each.

    I decided to take a chance on a set of Novatec D711SB / D712SB hubs. They're light and cheap and the reviews seemed decent. But you know what they say about light, cheap and durable.... Pick 2.

  20. #20
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    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs

    You can still find 240s on the cheap-ish.

    $180 for a DT 240: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=231470026807


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  21. #21
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    I have about 3 sets of BHS hubs on several mtb and one road bike. All reliable except one rear hub that broke the spring/leaf....but in full honesty it was my fault. I let the rear hub develop some play and during a race, well, lurch lurch skip skip crunch. It's on a 27.5 wheel and since I'm only riding 29er and 26er (gasp) these days it's not a priority to fix, but replacement parts are out there.

    If I was to build another wheelset it'd be with these hubs.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    GFisher-
    I don't have much of an idea about the paw springs. They are little compression springs on the 6 paws.

    I know that a compression spring is pretty long lived if it's compressed along it's normal axis. Expansion springs can fail faster.
    I'd be pretty surprised if these springs end up being a problem.
    To clarify, they are mini coil springs under compression
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  23. #23
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    Getting closer to actually riding on these hubs. Here is the 270 with 40T Wolftooth GC, sram cassette, and WTB i23 wheel.




    My biggest positive impressions so far: low weight and low drag! I don't have a scale so I didn't weigh anything, but the weight I shed by dumping the X7 hubs that were on those wheels is definitely noticeable. it feels like the wheels with the BHS hub and cassette is lighter than the wheel with the X7 hub alone. I only spun the hub while the bike was on the stand and they seem pretty low drag to me.

  24. #24
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    I'm in the same boat.
    Wheels are laced, much of the frame is too.
    A few minor but vital parts are missing before I can ride them.

    The frame is one of those low cost Chinese carbon frames. It's odd to be sure. I'll build it as a SS cross frame... w/ discs, tapered fork, and thru axles. Total odd duck.
    But keeping w/ the low cost frame, I went w/ these unknown hubs. Truth told- I have more trust in the hubs than the frame! Well, perhaps more than the fork anyway. Frame looks fine.
    I added reflective tape to the hubs. Spruces em up a bit and makes me safer on those long days that end later than I hoped for.
    Also added a sweet rattle can paint job to two spokes. I can't imagine this will ever look this good again. The smallest bit of abus causes the paint to scrape righ off. But for now- They look pretty sharp.
    Tires are WTB Nano 40. I've never tried this tire but they look fantastic. I've yet to know a gravel ride that doesn't include too much pave an a sliver or three of just a hair too rough trail.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-image.jpg

    Several packages from now, I should be able to report more.
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  25. #25
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    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img-20140623-00801.jpg
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img-20140808-00883.jpg

    Here is the RED laced to WTB i25, Spaim Force spokes w/ brass nips

    Over 300 miles rolling smooth
    Ride MORE = Live Longer
    Love Dirt / Hate Pavement

  26. #26
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    I would like to say that I've recovered from my red accent phase but my counselor probably thinks otherwise.
    I have two bikes (one SS, one w/ gears) that are pretty much identical. And they have all sorts of red ano on them.
    When they were new all parts matched. Now though, sun and time have faded most parts to various shades of red/pink.
    Thanks Chris King for the now pink headset that doesn't match the King headset spacers (that for some reason haven't faded one bit). Nipples get replaced w/ new rims so they look red. Salsa seat collar is red-ish.
    No way I'd want red hubs...
    No way. Nope. I'm cured.
    I'd never....
    I couldn't possibly.
    (sound of me hurrying to BHS to order new hubs)
    I'll be keenly interested to hear if their color changes over time. Seems American anodising fades while over sea sources might last longer.
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  27. #27
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    hahaha Yeah, it all seams to fade. My black RFace handelbars are turning grey, just look under the grip or shifter/brake clamp..
    I don't really care how long the "lipstick n rouge" is on before the ride is over hahahahaa

    Make it Pertty!
    Ride it DIrty!!

    RIDE!!!!!!!!!
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  28. #28
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    Summer heat/Sun is damn hot here and this up incoming one will be my hubs first full summer of burn. Guess a photo to photo comparison with the same camera and photos 1yr apart might be a good future post
    Ride MORE = Live Longer
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  29. #29
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    black hubs... FTW
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  30. #30
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    My black King hubs always changed to a nice eggplant over the years.

    Wonder why a Thomson post stays black and the King headset below it morphs into ugly.
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  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    black hubs... FTW
    ComON Hokie, you know you want BLING!! :-P
    Ride MORE = Live Longer
    Love Dirt / Hate Pavement

  32. #32
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    I have a red accent affliction also. I think it's understandable with the long standing trend of black everything. From frames to components to hubs to rims to spokes. I like a little color. Here is my freshly built cross wheelset using BHS hubs and Chinese carbon rims. Note the fancy 3 cross on the rear drive side and radial on non-drive side. I used their 16:8 hole hub.

    So no help here as far as durability, but I can tell you that they are light as hell and they want to spin forever.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_1291.jpgInitial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_1294.jpgInitial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_1298.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_1296.jpg  


  33. #33
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    Nice wheels.
    In person do they have that pink-ish tint to them?
    I really like the super thin non-disc look of the F hub.

    When new, the various red anodized items I have were all a similar color of red.
    Now, they are all various shades of red and pink. For some reason (that I'm sure King would never admit to)- the King headsets are faded all to hell and the same era King headset spacers are a mostly unfaded red. What the heck King? Am I supposed to believe you do the same anodizing on each? Or is someone else doing your spacers?
    (But that's just me complaining to the Ethernet)
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Nice wheels.
    In person do they have that pink-ish tint to them?
    I really like the super thin non-disc look of the F hub.

    When new, the various red anodized items I have were all a similar color of red.
    Now, they are all various shades of red and pink. For some reason (that I'm sure King would never admit to)- the King headsets are faded all to hell and the same era King headset spacers are a mostly unfaded red. What the heck King? Am I supposed to believe you do the same anodizing on each? Or is someone else doing your spacers?
    (But that's just me complaining to the Ethernet)
    I wouldn't say they're pinkish, but they are definitely a shade lighter than my red TRP CX8 mini V brakes. I gave up on trying to get exact matches in anodized colors. I work in an unrelated industry that does plating and anodizing so know that the base metal affects how the final color looks. I would guess that would be the cause of the King inconsistency.

  35. #35
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    As someone in that world- can you tell me why one item (oh say.... KING stuff) is supposed to be top shelf (and then fades) and another item (oh say... Bottom of the barrel knock off Asian stems on rental bikes) stay ano black for what seems like forever?
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  36. #36
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    Unfortunately, I have no idea.

  37. #37
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    has anyone tried the rear hub conversion kit? specifically the 12x135? will this conversion kit fit into a standard 10x135 drop out frame?

    yes i'm aware that a 12mm peg will not fit in a 10mm hole, but description/dimension of certain parts are often not exactly what they are described as being.

    I would love to use these hubs, mostly the rear, but it has to accept a 10mm thru bolt of some kind.

    what axle/frame are you guys using this rear hub on? anyone tried the 10x135 conversion on a standard drop out frame?
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  38. #38
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    so i sent bikehubstore an email and this is what i got back.

    BikeHubStore.com
    To me Today at 6:29 AM
    Ben,

    The OLD is 135mm. Whether it will fit on your bike I do not know. These were 12/135 axles sent to us in error, but there have been a few people who wanted them. But I cannot guarantee compatibility with your bike.

    Brandon
    not very helpful, but it seems a few people have at least tried it. anyone here on MTBR? i wonder though if it's the wrong part, and they have no idea if it fits into a standard 135 frame, why are they selling them? hmmm

    can't tell from the pic what diameter the end caps are.
    Attachment 972130
    Last edited by *OneSpeed*; 03-12-2015 at 07:58 AM.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  39. #39
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    man this guy must be having a bad morning! i sent a follow up e-mail to "Brandon" asking if they had an accurate measurement, or if someone there could try to fit it into a standard drop out. what i got back was a snarky response full of attitude saying he doesn't know and "if i'm uncertain then don't buy them. I don't know what else to tell you." kind of a jerk, not the best way to answer a customers questions who is intending to buy at least 2 sets of hubs. not to mention share the experience with everyone on MTBR.

    he did however include pictures showing a micrometer measuring the end caps, and that answered my question. no.

    the end cap is 19mm wide, with the flat sides measuring 17mm. I'm not sure what frame that fits but it's nothing I own.

    i still wonder if i could drill out the 5mm end caps and use a Hadley thru bolt conversion or something. DT RWS?

    so are most of you just using a standard quick release with your rear hubs?
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  40. #40
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    I'm confused on your question. It works just fine in a 135 drop out frame.

    I have a MTB270 QR rear axle assembly that I'd be happy to measure, but again, I'm not sure what you're asking.

    Brandon is a fair, honest guy and is great to work with.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  41. #41
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    my question was about the conversion kit. not the quick release version. read my first post again. i also linked it, if you click the picture in my post above it will take you to the page.

    he may be a fair and honest guy, he must just be having a bad day is all.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  42. #42
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    Sorry, I can't speak to 12x135. Just 135QR and 12x142.

    I have been happy with the 4 MTB270's and 1 MTB180 that I purchased.

    I currently am running a 12x142 MTB270 on the rear of both of my bikes.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  43. #43
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    yeah, that's kind of what i want to do...

    I am looking for a rear hub that I can use a 10x135 thru bolt, like a Hope pro II, or Hadley hub. I was going to go with the Hope, but if these can do it for half the price and a little higher engagement, that would have been sweet.
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    I use a 12mm to 10mm 135mm bolt on axle with my 12x135mm MTB 270. You can also find step down axles with a with a QR if you don't want to use bolts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by degu22 View Post
    I use a 12mm to 10mm 135mm bolt on axle with my 12x135mm MTB 270. You can also find step down axles with a with a QR if you don't want to use bolts.
    YES! thats what i was looking for. where did you get your axle? do you have a link?

    I would like to use the strongest/stiffest possible combination. i don't care what brand, although i would like to avoid the DT RWS.

    something like this American Classic QR thru axle HERE
    Attachment 972180

    or a Hadley thru bolt like THIS
    Attachment 972181

    will either one of these work?
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    I think I got mine off ebay. Get one with the 15mm bolts, that's as stiff as you'll get with 10mm dropouts. I have one similar to the one on the bottom but I don't really trust it, it seems a bit weak. Both of those would work as long as they have the 10mm step-down.

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    i don't think either of those have a step down, they are just 10mm.

    however i found this a while ago 12 to 10mm adapter
    Attachment 972190

    it's also available on ebay. I would rather have a QR version like the AC but will still be happy if this works.
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    BENKD29:

    I ran a Hope Pro 2 12x135 in 10mm QR dropouts with a stepdown axle and it was definitely stiffer than a QR. I used an Azonic Momentum axle first: Azonic Momentum Axle 12mm X 135mm | Azonic, then switched to a much lighter (and also much more expensive) Loaded AMX axle: Loaded USA :: Loaded Precision Components :: Products .

    Although it's not as clean looking, and requires an additional wrench in you pack, I definitely prefer the 15mm nutted axles over something with a recessed hex head.

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    Ha! more options. i love it. good info, thanks.

    yeah, i just realized they don't sell the hub as a 12x135, you have to buy the adapter kit, and the thru bolt separately. plus i feel like the weight is creeping up as well as the money. the hub+adapter is $132, plus a thru bolt $12-60. thats getting close to Hope money.

    the loaded precision looks nice. that seems to be the best option so far.
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    Daaammmnnn!
    This thread has gone places.
    Interesting fits questions for the rear hub.

    Although I have less time on them than the other folks here that are posting, I'll keep w/ the original spirit when I started this thread.
    Perhaps 200 miles. ZERO issues.
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  51. #51
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    I started talking with Brandon about 135 x 10mm thru axles for his hubs. He was busy dealing with weather and school closures and then I broke my ankle. As soon as I'm completely mobile again, I'm going to pick up on this conversation again.
    I have that setup on a rear Hope on one of my bikes and in my opinion, it's the only way to set up a bike with standard dropouts.
    I like turtles

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I have that setup on a rear Hope on one of my bikes and in my opinion, it's the only way to set up a bike with standard dropouts.
    I agree. I'm converting all my bikes now. I will never use a standard quick release again. i wish the industry would make a drastic change so that all hubs were 9mm/10mm quick release thru axles as standard. good luck with that.

    truth is they are hard to come by, with the exception of high end hubs. the Sram X9 comes to mind, and the Specialized Stout front (which i don't think is made anymore and not convertible). and now of course the BHS hubs.

    I'm relatively new to the sport, and 210 lbs, but i'm still shocked that there isn't a higher demand for this. I realize that most new frames/forks are 15mm front/142x12 rear but still...
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    So wait-
    What are you guys talking about?
    You take a 12/142 hub. Stuff some converter in it? And use it as a bolt on? Or a QR?

    Please clarify if you can.
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  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    You take a 12/142 hub. Stuff some converter in it? And use it as a bolt on? Or a QR?

    Please clarify if you can.
    no, it's a 135 hub. go back a page and read from Post #37

    or skip my initial question and read from Post #43 where the question gets answered.

    let me know if that helps
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    BENKD-
    I read it again but guess previous head injuries or lack of coffee are precluding my ability to gain clarity.

    You take a BHS hub.
    It starts life as at 135mm wide.
    But it's not the thin diameter associated w/ a standard QR- it's 10mm?
    I don't see any options on BHS that make a 10x135.

    The only parts I understand are that it's 135mm wide and it's for a frame w/ vertical dropouts. The rest is voodoo.
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  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    BENKD-
    I read it again but guess previous head injuries or lack of coffee are precluding my ability to gain clarity.

    You take a BHS hub.
    It starts life as at 135mm wide.
    But it's not the thin diameter associated w/ a standard QR- it's 10mm?
    I don't see any options on BHS that make a 10x135.

    The only parts I understand are that it's 135mm wide and it's for a frame w/ vertical dropouts. The rest is voodoo.
    Grab a coffee and have a read of this.

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    you got a problem with voodoo??? jk

    the end caps dictate what axle can be used. using the same 135 hub, 12x142 end caps are for a 142 TA frame only. but on some hubs you can switch the end caps to take a standard quick release, or vice versa. you are correct, BHS does not make a 10x135 hub.

    standard dropouts are 100x9mm front, 135x10mm rear. the BHS rear hub has an optional conversion kit to go from a 5mm QR to a 12mm bolt on axle. in this case you remove the end caps with hollow tube, and insert a hollow tube that has an inner diameter of 12mm.

    now you buy a bolt on axle that is 12mm in diameter except at the ends where it needs to fit in the drop outs. the diameter is decreased to 10mm. it "steps down." you then thread on the bolts from the outside using a 15mm threaded nut and a standard 15mm wrench in place of a quick release.

    Attachment 975225
    here is a standard quick release end cap compared to the 12x135 conversion.

    Attachment 975227
    here is the inner diameter of the 12x135 conversion kit. and to make it work, you need a bolt.

    Attachment 975228
    you can see the 10mm step down at the ends

    the goal is to get the most robust setup achievable in a drop out frame.

    did that clear it up? I'm sure i left something out, or could have clarified better, if so i'll go back and edit if necessary.
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    BroSide-
    Yep.
    That helps. Thanks.

    The funny thing is that I'm running the DT RWS set up on the back of two bikes and didn't do the math on this! Not only do I know it, I have it. Sheesh.

    Sorry to sidetrack it all.
    10x135 now makes sense.

    BENDK-
    Another huge help.
    Great explanation. Thank you.
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  59. #59
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    no prob, I just figured it out myself. happy to share.

    9mm/10mm hubs being standard on everything would make life a lot easier, and better. but that would be too easy.
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    Can anyone chime in on the difference in the sound between the DT Swiss 240/350 and the BHS MTB270.

    I'm weighing these hubs for a new wheel build and like to stay somewhat stealth in the woods. Seeing wildlife is a pleasant plus on the trail.

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    Just throw some Phil's oil on the pawls. My I9 hubs are not quite quiet and my guess is they were louder than the BHS hubs

  62. #62
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    The BHS hubs have a quieter, slightly higher pitch "buzz" than most of the other hubs.
    I like turtles

  63. #63
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    I'm using 240s on two bikes. Have been running them for years and my ear is very used to a quiet hub.

    The BHS hubs are definitly louder than my 240s, but even as someone who isn't a fan of loud hubs- they aren't bad at all to me.

    As someone said, a bit of wear and oil will go a long way to making them a bit quieter, and hopefully still functional in 0 degree weather.

    I will say- they are nowhere near as annoying as a damned King or Hope.
    Not even close.
    My best pal rides his SS w/ a Hope and oh my.... It's really something to be near. Some like that stuff, but it's not my cup of bees.
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    Thanks for the feed back on sound...

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    The cheap OEM hub on my Giant Trance started skipping late last season and I was going to eek a final season out of it until I saw this post. Another plus is that the hub has the same spoke diameter as my old hub so I can hopefully use the same spokes. I've never laced a wheel so this will be a learning experiences for me. I've always wanted to try it (have a truing stand already).

    I ordered a MTB270 in Shimano 10mm this morning. Can't wait...

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    I like reusing spikes when it seems prudent- they can be surprisingly long lived if you let them be.
    Many builders get all touchy about it- but if they are not too dinged up- use them.
    But- perhaps new nips. Unless they are brass... Then maybe.
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  67. #67
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    I hate loud hubs. I find the sound of the BHS MTB270 to be actually pretty pleasant. A little Phil's does make it a touch quieter. Once you ride with a hub that has a bit of a metallic/ pissed off hornet buzz, you actually start to like it
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    I like reusing spikes when it seems prudent- they can be surprisingly long lived if you let them be.
    Many builders get all touchy about it- but if they are not too dinged up- use them.
    But- perhaps new nips. Unless they are brass... Then maybe.
    When you disassemble the wheel, lay out a paper towel and with a pen, make lines to separate the towel into 4 sections. Label each section NDS outer, NDS inner, DS inner and DS outer. This will help in assembly with used spokes immensely.
    I like turtles

  69. #69
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    Just ordered my 5th BHS MTB270... apparently they have them in black, red and silver now. Went with silver. It'll clash horribly with the lime green frame I've got coming. Fawk it. I like loud colors. Why the hell not?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    Just got the hub in the mail yesterday. It seems really stiff, wonder if it needs to break in or if I need to adjust something. It's a very quiet hub, which I like.

  71. #71
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    There's no adjustment.
    Just go ride, and I bet you'll be fine.
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  72. #72
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    As they wear, their sound gets louder.
    Still isn't as bad as a Hope, but I dropped some grease in this eve to hopefully quiet it down a bit.

    Just an FYI for the new buyers.
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  73. #73
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    Thanks for the feedback Johnny - I'm still on the fence but probably buying hubs within the next couple of days.

  74. #74
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    Even as a loud hub hater, I'd happily do these again.
    So far anyway!
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    Did the oil/grease quiet them back down?

  76. #76
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    I'll know more this eve.
    Gave it a good couple of cranks on the stand and is sounded about the same.
    I was amazed at how long the wheel will continue to spin when I do that not so scientific test.
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  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    I was amazed at how long the wheel will continue to spin when I do that not so scientific test.
    ^^ ditto
    Last edited by 06HokieMTB; 04-28-2015 at 12:40 PM.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    Johnny - have you been out for a ride after the oil/grease service?
    Did it help bring the sound back down?

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    Yep.
    It's quieter but it's been light riding.
    I didn't want to post until it had some thing more substantial on it.
    Too many trails drying out!
    I'd rather be on more single track oriented bikes than the CX bike these days!
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    I had one of the first ones available and grenaded it. Literally managed to blow it into two halves.

    BSH was great and replaced it. Have one ride on the replacement and it's good so far.

    I have a question on spoke lengths. Has anyone found their spoke calcs to be long when using the provided dimensions?

    I built it up into a Pacenti TL28 28h 3x with Cx-Rays. After building I was pretty much bottoming out the nipples on the threads and it wasn't as high a tension as the wheel should have.

    Planning to scrap the rim and spokes due to another issue and rebuild the hub into another rim, but want to see if others have had issues with long spokes before I round further down on the spoke calc.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by shirk View Post
    want to see if others have had issues with long spokes before I round further down on the spoke calc.
    All 5 of mine have built up just fine with the stated dimensions. Haven't taken the time to measure myself as I seem to remember that others have confirmed the measurements.

    Are you using the mfg's stated ERD? Or are you verifying your rim's ERD's yourself and then ordering the appropriate spoke length?

    The reason I ask is I've seen plenty of rims come in with an ERD higher than stated. Many mfg's report nipple seat diameter, but do not account for the thickness/height of the spoke head itself. If the ERD is off, I find that it tends to be off by 3-4mm, which is the thickness/height of a spoke nipple head.

    EDIT: error in ERD will more significantly impact the spoke length measurement than an error in hub dimension. I've swapped hubs that have different flange diameters and different spacing and everything has worked out OK.

    Same cannot be said for a 2-4mm error in ERD.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  82. #82
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    Oh, another thing, are you accounting for spoke stretch?

    In DT Swiss' spoke calculator, it'll often have you round down if you select DT Revolution spokes (which are like your CX-Rays, except not bladed) vs. DT Competition spokes. IE: thinner spokes stretch a bit more. Especially so on the drive side/disc side.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    I initially used the stated ERD I found online for the rims.

    Will be waiting till I have rims in hand and confirm myself on the ERD for the next set.

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    I've been running the MBT270 for about a month. Initially I was disappointed because the freehub had a lot of friction and skipped a lot under load. I decide to allow it a break in period before returning it and I'm glad I did. After about five hours of riding it stopped skipping and has lostened up substantially. Now I love the hub.

  85. #85
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    Weird!
    Friction eh?
    Mine has seemed buttery since the start.
    Wonder what that is about.
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    I initially thought it was because of the extra pals. More pals, more contact points... It was enough that I could feel it pushing my pedals while coasting. I pulled off the freehub and everything looked fine. Plenty of grease, etc.

    Now that it's broken in both problems are gone. Weird that it needed a break in period.

  87. #87
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    Just got an m270 delivered. Seems like a well built hub and the engagement is excellent. Will be building with Derby rims. Wanted to give props to Brandon for terrific customer service. Ordered the wrong axle converter, asked to exchange and he shipped it off to me immediately without waiting for me to mail back the one I had and didn't ask me to pay shipping even though it was my mistake. Will report back once wheel is built.

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    Nice Myers.
    Always good to hear of another happy (so far!) buyer.

    Mine have a reasonable chunk of miles now. Plenty of abuse and torque (well as much as I can muster) on a SS cross bike.
    Not a single glitch or skip of the paws.
    So far, so good. Sound seems broken in and makes no racket.

    THESE HUBS ARE A GREAT ALTERNATIVE (so far anyway)
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  89. #89
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    There is no jamb nut or other way to set preload on bearings. You sort of need to get lucky between too loose or too tight. Your axle attachment to the bike then adds a little more preload and tightens things up.
    This issue also shows up if your wheel spins forever or not. If it really spins well when not mounted, it will likely be too loose when mounted on a bike, resulting in the position of the brake disc moving around (drag). If the disc moves side to side when you grab your wheel, the preload needs to be tighter.
    Not much of a problem if your are looking for it.

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    On this type of cartridge bearing hub, theres no preload. There shouldnt be any slop either.

    Its setup like a hope or DT swiss hub. They just work, no adjustments necessary or possible.

  91. #91
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    Taking the thread back a bit to hub conversions. Got my M270 with the 142 x 12, and also ordered the 135 x 12 converter to run it on a 135 rear frame. The option to run a through bolt on 135mm rear frames is definitely a plus, way better than QR!

    Did some searching for a 12 to 10mm step down thru-bolt based on suggestions in post #48; Azonic Momentum, cheap (~$12- 15) but heavy (84gm) and the Loaded Precision AMX axle, light (60gm) but pricey ($60). I ran across this Stan's converter, $25 and light. Looks to be the same as this Sun-Ringle axle.

    Ordered the Stan's version from Jenson. Weighed in at 60g, so same weight as the AMX for a fraction of the cost. Fit was a bit tight, but it does go thru. Total weight of hub/converter/step down axle=337g on my scale.

    My Derby rims arrived today, now to measure and order spokes. Getting stoked to try my first wheel build

  92. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myers005 View Post
    My Derby rims arrived today, now to measure and order spokes. Getting stoked to try my first wheel build
    Be warned... you are walking on thin ice. March 2014 I was exactly where you are. A couple weeks ago I just built my 23rd wheel. It becomes an addiction!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Mine have a reasonable chunk of miles now. Plenty of abuse and torque (well as much as I can muster) on a SS cross bike.
    Not a single glitch or skip of the paws.
    So far, so good. Sound seems broken in and makes no racket.
    No problems with the alloy freehub and SS use? I would think that a single gear would dig horribly into the freehub.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Be warned... you are walking on thin ice. March 2014 I was exactly where you are. A couple weeks ago I just built my 23rd wheel. It becomes an addiction!
    But is there beer involved?

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    Not having a jamb nut is a bad design. The bearing preload is then dependent on how tight the frame/axle (QR or maxle) is torqued. The brake disc centerline then moves around as well. If the bearing preload is set way too loose, the maxle can also comes loose in use. This exact thing happened to me on a few rides in a row and it was not until I realized that the bearing preload was the problem that it got permanently fixed.

    Can the design work and do other manf use it - sure, but it does not mean it is right. Anyway, this is just information that might help others.

    The good news is that even with cheap ABEC1 grade bearings, my buddies can't keep up with me just coasting without having to peddle on long gradual downhill. All and all pretty damn good hubs.

  96. #96
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    Please disregard.
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  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommybees View Post
    Not having a jamb nut is a bad design. The bearing preload is then dependent on how tight the frame/axle (QR or maxle) is torqued. The brake disc centerline then moves around as well. If the bearing preload is set way too loose, the maxle can also comes loose in use. This exact thing happened to me on a few rides in a row and it was not until I realized that the bearing preload was the problem that it got permanently fixed.

    Can the design work and do other manf use it - sure, but it does not mean it is right. Anyway, this is just information that might help others.

    The good news is that even with cheap ABEC1 grade bearings, my buddies can't keep up with me just coasting without having to peddle on long gradual downhill. All and all pretty damn good hubs.
    The axle has a jamb nut. It's the end cap. You can tighten the axle to remove slop. Loctite helps keep it in place. Once you get it tight, the frame skewer/axle has no impact on the bearing preload.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Be warned... you are walking on thin ice. March 2014 I was exactly where you are. A couple weeks ago I just built my 23rd wheel. It becomes an addiction!
    Absolutely true. I was building wheels for a shop. Kept me plenty busy. He just closed up and moved to Idaho. I'm having withdrawals already.
    I like turtles

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myers005 View Post
    But is there beer involved?
    Plenty. Whiskey as well.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  100. #100
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    Found this hub on eBay and it looks identical to the BHS MTB270, even down to a 1 gram diff in claimed weight. Perhaps just another no-label Bitex. Oh, and $30 cheaper which pays for the 12/135mm conversion kit. Mr Ride 2015 54T 6pawl MTB Rear Hub 32h Mountain Bike SRAM 10 11 Speed Black | eBay
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  101. #101
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    I might have missed this somewhere in the thread but can someone post what a 29" wheelset weight, using these hubs, came to?
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  102. #102
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    Spank Oozy 295 29er rim: 495g
    BHS MTB 270 12x142 hub: 279g
    32 Sapim Laser spokes & brass Polyax nipples: 190g

    964g

    LB Hookess XC 27mm (22mm internal) carbon 29er rim: 365g
    BHS MTB 270 12x142 hub: 279g
    32 Sapim Laser spokes & brass Polyax nipples: 190g

    834g

    Frequency i23 rim: 532g
    BHS MTB 270 12x142 hub: 279g
    32 Sapim Laser spokes & brass Polyax nipples: 190g

    1001g

    EDIT: FWIW Sapim Laser spokes are comparable to DT Revolution
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  103. #103
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    Using Sapim Race (DT Competition) spokes will add around 75-100g to the wheel weight.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  104. #104
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    Still going.
    Plenty of wet here in Colorado and these hubs are not having any issues.
    In fact, they are now a non-event. Just another part of a bike that works w/o me thinking or worrying about them.
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    WTB KOM i23/BHS 15mm TA hub front - 885g
    WTB KOM i23/BHS 142x12 TA hub rear - 950g

  106. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Spank Oozy 295 29er rim: 495g
    BHS MTB 270 12x142 hub: 279g
    32 Sapim Laser spokes & brass Polyax nipples: 190g

    964g

    LB Hookess XC 27mm (22mm internal) carbon 29er rim: 365g
    BHS MTB 270 12x142 hub: 279g
    32 Sapim Laser spokes & brass Polyax nipples: 190g

    834g

    Frequency i23 rim: 532g
    BHS MTB 270 12x142 hub: 279g
    32 Sapim Laser spokes & brass Polyax nipples: 190g

    1001g

    EDIT: FWIW Sapim Laser spokes are comparable to DT Revolution
    Thanks a bunch. I'm currently running F i23s on another bike and really like that rim and wondered what a weight would be with DT Rev spokes and the MTB270 hub. I guessed at about an 1800g wheelset weight and it looks to be pretty close to that.
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  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Thanks a bunch. I'm currently running F i23s on another bike and really like that rim and wondered what a weight would be with DT Rev spokes and the MTB270 hub. I guessed at about an 1800g wheelset weight and it looks to be pretty close to that.
    DT 350 15mm front hub is ~ 171g

    32 Sapim Laser spokes & brass Polyax nipples: 190g
    Frequency i23 rim: 532g

    Front i23 29 wheel: 893g + 1001g = 1893g

    You could save some weight with a lighter front hub. You could also save a few more grams will alloy nipples, but brass nipples are worth their weight for a custom wheel build and (IMO) it's not worth the hassle of going to alloy
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  108. #108
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    I used a Novatec 771 front hub, weighed in at 139gm for a15mm TA. My rear has the MTB270, Sapim Race, Derby 35mm XC and weighs 960 with tape and valve stem
    Last edited by Myers005; 07-10-2015 at 11:06 AM. Reason: Not finished

  109. #109
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    All good suggestions. Yea, I could go lighter on the front hub but I'd stick with brass nipples. Even considering the KOM 23mm rims. About a $20 upcharge/wheel and 100g in weight savings.
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  110. #110
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    KOM front, Freq rear is good combo.

    Or Spank Oozy 295 front/rear. (25mm internal)

    Or KOM i25 front, Oozy 295 rear (for lightest and widest).
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    I'm a fan of brass nipples with lighter aluminum rims, which are likely to need some tweaking after a few good bashes. With the stiffer carbon rims, which by nature can't take a permanent bend, I don't see alloy nipples as having any significant downsides. I'm also comfortable running fewer spokes with the stiff rims. I weigh 185+ and went 28h front and rear with my LB 38mm hoops.

    Back OT: I've just got about 200 miles of trail on my MTB270/180 set, but I love them so far. No question I'd buy them again. BHS has been great too.

  112. #112
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    Carbon & alloy nipples = no no (galvanic corrosion)

    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  113. #113
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    carbon and alloy nipples = no problem if using quality anodized alloy nipples.

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    Just got mine. 142x12 and 15mm front. Look nice; just need rims to arrive.

    Agree they feel stiff (and likely a tad loud). I'll put a few drops of oil in and hope they loosen up / quiet down w/use.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_F97 View Post
    Just got the hub in the mail yesterday. It seems really stiff, wonder if it needs to break in or if I need to adjust something. It's a very quiet hub, which I like.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfo423 View Post
    Just got mine. 142x12 and 15mm front. Look nice; just need rims to arrive.

    Agree they feel stiff (and likely a tad loud). I'll put a few drops of oil in and hope they loosen up / quiet down w/use.
    Can you post up a pic of them?
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Can you post up a pic of them?
    Below.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-file-jul-20-4-45-28-pm-2-.jpg  


  117. #117
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    Thanks
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    What freehubs you guys using? there is the Sram XX1 and the Shimano 10/11? Whats the difference? Does it matter?

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    nm xx1 is a single speed

  120. #120
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    Huh?

    XX1 is an XD driver for SRAM 1x drivetrain a
    Shimano 9/10 is a standard MTB cassette free hub (also compatible with SRAM 9/10)

    Shimano 10/11 is road cassette freehub
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  121. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Huh?

    XX1 is an XD driver for SRAM 1x drivetrain a
    Shimano 9/10 is a standard MTB cassette free hub (also compatible with SRAM 9/10)

    Shimano 10/11 is road cassette freehub
    Just ordered a MTB270 hub with the Shimano 10/11.

    When you checkout the only two options are the Sram XX1 and Shimano 10/11.

    I dont have a single speed, so I got the 10/11.

  122. #122
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    XX1 isn't single speed. It's 11

    (Or possibly 7 if you're DH)
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

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    Shimano 10/11 is actually shimano 8/9/10/11. It will come with a spacer to use with anything less than 11 speed road. It will fit any cassette from shimano or sram other than 11s mountain (sram). The reason for 11s road compatibility is for road/cx disc bikes. Most new shimano compatible hubs for mountain or road will be 11s compatible due to being backwards compatible for 8/9/10s by using the spacer. SRAM XD driver is a horse of a different color.

  124. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    Shimano 10/11 is actually shimano 8/9/10/11. It will come with a spacer to use with anything less than 11 speed road. It will fit any cassette from shimano or sram other than 11s mountain (sram). The reason for 11s road compatibility is for road/cx disc bikes. Most new shimano compatible hubs for mountain or road will be 11s compatible due to being backwards compatible for 8/9/10s by using the spacer. SRAM XD driver is a horse of a different color.
    So if I'm going to use a run-of-the-mill Shimano XT 11/36 MTB cassette I would leave that spacer on the freehub?
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  125. #125
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    Weird. They used to offer 3 options, the 3rd being road

    Here's the description of the last "regular" hub that I bought

    "MTB270 - QR Axle - 32 Holes - Black - Shimano 8/9/10"
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    So if I'm going to use a run-of-the-mill Shimano XT 11/36 MTB cassette I would leave that spacer on the freehub?
    Yes.
    I like turtles

  127. #127
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    Looks like you can save some cash on some 180/270 hubs now if you're willing to put up with the Bitex logo and you like red or black. Also looks like to can get the F and R configured any way you please.

    MTB180 / MTB270 Hubset with Bitex Logo - 20% off!
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  128. #128
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    I just did my first ride yesterday on a wheelset based on a set of BHS hubs. The specs are stans flow ex, DT Swiss comps, AL nipples and BHS hubs setup with 15mm front and 142x12 rear. Overall I'm really pleased with them. The engagement is great and they aren't at all loud. It feels like there is a little bit of resistance to them but I'm willing to bet it goes away as they break in. Overall very happy with this wheelset considering I've got 450 total into it.

  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    XX1 isn't single speed. It's 11

    (Or possibly 7 if you're DH)
    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    Shimano 10/11 is actually shimano 8/9/10/11. It will come with a spacer to use with anything less than 11 speed road. It will fit any cassette from shimano or sram other than 11s mountain (sram). The reason for 11s road compatibility is for road/cx disc bikes. Most new shimano compatible hubs for mountain or road will be 11s compatible due to being backwards compatible for 8/9/10s by using the spacer. SRAM XD driver is a horse of a different color.
    Well interesting, I could have sworn I saw the XX1 was single speed. So I am running a 10spd cassette, with the Shimano work then, or should have gotten the XX1? It only gave me those two options.

    The shimano one will be here tomorrow...

  130. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregers05 View Post
    Well interesting, I could have sworn I saw the XX1 was single speed...
    Youre probably confusing it with "one by" with a single chainring. But the xd driver can be used with double or triple chainring just as easily.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Weird. They used to offer 3 options, the 3rd being road.
    "Road" would generally refer to 130mm OLD and QR axle. All bets are off these days, though.

  132. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregers05 View Post
    Well interesting, I could have sworn I saw the XX1 was single speed. So I am running a 10spd cassette, with the Shimano work then, or should have gotten the XX1? It only gave me those two options.

    The shimano one will be here tomorrow...
    You selected the correct freehub. An XX1 freehub (or 'XD Driver' as it's also called) supports 11 speed cassettes for those who are running 1x11 setups. 8, 9, and 10 speed cassettes fit on a standard Shimano 9/10 speed freehub.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    You selected the correct freehub. An XX1 freehub (or 'XD Driver' as it's also called) supports 11 speed cassettes for those who are running 1x11 setups. 8, 9, and 10 speed cassettes fit on a standard Shimano 9/10 speed freehub.
    Cool. Thanks.


    Actually got the hub in yesterday. Ordered Friday around lunch time and was waiting for me on Monday when I got home from work. Super quick shipping!

  134. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Looks like you can save some cash on some 180/270 hubs now if you're willing to put up with the Bitex logo and you like red or black. Also looks like to can get the F and R configured any way you please.

    MTB180 / MTB270 Hubset with Bitex Logo - 20% off!
    x2.
    Picked up a set a couple of days ago and they already arrived, look and feel great.
    Do they come apart fairly easy? I'd like to see how well the hubs are lubed?
    Niner Jet 9 RDO, Scalpel 29, XTC 650b, 04 Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Trek Rigid SS - No suspension, no gears....no problem

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by upstateSC-rider View Post
    x2.
    Picked up a set a couple of days ago and they already arrived, look and feel great.
    Do they come apart fairly easy? I'd like to see how well the hubs are lubed?
    They do come apart easily.
    I like turtles

  136. #136
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    Months and plenty of miles later...
    And things are great.
    No play in either hubs, no real increase or decrease in noise. The noise is just fine, not too loud. Maybe a shade quieter than the 240s I'm using elsewhere. Maybe.

    Not sure what my next build will be but it'll have BHS hubs.
    There is NO reason not to use them. Unless you need to noise of a Hope, or the Bling of a King, or the admiration of riders you don't chose to ride w/.

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  137. #137
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    The only 'negative (?)' thing I've noticed with high engagement hubs, is when you land, the rear wheel makes a 'clunk' noise as the pawls engage (presumably from movement at the pedals as your landing).

    I think I remember hearing that DH guys run really low POE hubs? Maybe that was to reduce drag? Or maybe to allow for more slop in the pedals when landing?

    Dunno.

    Still happy with my hubs. I have two rear wheels built up and have recently swapped the freehubs/cassettes back and forth between the two. (one is 11 spd, XD other is 10spd Shimano). It's about a 3 minute job.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  138. #138
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    Does anyone know what length spokes I would need with these Bitex hubs and Frequency i23 29" rims?

    Trying to put together a killer value wheelset but don't know what spokes to use (DT comp?) or what length I need. 173lb rider, XC/trail singletrack.


    OP thanks for starting this thread and reporting back on how they've held up!

  139. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerz_subbie View Post
    Does anyone know what length spokes I would need with these Bitex hubs and Frequency i23 29" rims?

    Trying to put together a killer value wheelset but don't know what spokes to use (DT comp?) or what length I need. 173lb rider, XC/trail singletrack.


    OP thanks for starting this thread and reporting back on how they've held up!
    EDIT: Check your PM's
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  140. #140
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    Thanks for the info! I think I figured out the DT swiss calculator. It's telling me rounded F l/r 290/293, R l/r 291/290. I'll confirm with the guy I'm going to have build them.

    Edit-
    I'm looking at:
    BHS hubs F/R
    Frequency i23 29er rims
    Sapim Race spokes & brass nipples
    I wish Dan's had D-lights to shave another ~60g, but I'll suck up the 2oz for 50% savings

    Edit2: Thinking wheelsmith DB14 for the slight weight savings over Sapim Race/DT comp, now to find the best place to buy. Ordered my rims and hubs yesterday.

    Edit3: Received my hubs today. The 9mm QR seem to be ever so slightly heavier at 188g/294g F/R. These are FAR lighter than my current XT hubs, can't wait to get them built up!
    Last edited by Jerz_subbie; 08-13-2015 at 07:01 PM.

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    Does anyone have pictures of the silver version of these hubs? Didn't see any in the thread and I haven't been able to figure it out on Google. There was an image that may have been them but it's more of a gun metal color than what I was thinking so I just wanted to see what they look like for a future wheel/bike build.

    Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

  142. #142
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    It's a shiny silver. Not quite chrome, but definitely not gun metal
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  143. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    It's a shiny silver. Not quite chrome, but definitely not gun metal
    Awesome thanks, I thought the one I saw seemed a little odd to just be called silver.

  144. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Looks like you can save some cash on some 180/270 hubs now if you're willing to put up with the Bitex logo and you like red or black. Also looks like to can get the F and R configured any way you please.

    MTB180 / MTB270 Hubset with Bitex Logo - 20% off!
    I'm trying to figure out a need for another set of wheels...
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  145. #145
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    Got my wheels from the builder yesterday...

    BHS hubs F/R
    Frequency Race i23 29er rims
    Sapim Race spokes & brass nipples
    Weight 2052g

    I was hoping to be under 2kg but the rims weighed in 100g over the specs on WTB's site. Maybe that's the difference between Race and Team. Still saving 320g over my XT/ST i23 set.

    Update:
    These hubs are definitely louder than my old Mavic wheelset and recent new XT hubs but not annoyingly so. I've heard some other hubs on the trail that sounded amplified, not sure what they were, but these aren't bad at all from a noise perspective. They also seem to roll very smoothly, better than the XT hubs. With 3 rides on them, I'm very happy so far!
    Last edited by Jerz_subbie; 08-23-2015 at 07:27 PM.

  146. #146
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    So my fears of Boost148 have been resolved.

    Brandon just emailed me and said that Boost hubs will be on his website around the October time frame.

    Time to build a proper B+ hardtail!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  147. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    So my fears of Boost148 have been resolved.

    Brandon just emailed me and said that Boost hubs will be on his website around the October time frame.

    Time to build a proper B+ hardtail!
    I like turtles

  148. #148
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    Can anyone suggest an affordable front hub that can run a 9x100 thru axle? need something to pair with the 270. Would be awesome if I could convert the 15x100 on the bhs hub to a 9x100.

  149. #149
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    Novatec convertible hubs have adapters to run a 9mm thru front hub. I paired my BHS MTB270 with a Novatec D7, which is really light (139g for the 15mm thru). There are a couple of other convertible models too, D881SB and D541SB. You can sometimes get the 771 sold as front only on eBay, but they usually come in pairs. Bdopcycling sells the hubs in any configuration and sells adapters D771SB

  150. #150
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    Thanks for the suggestion! I've never heard of that site. Seems like they charge rather a lot for novatec hubs and adapters though. That's more than a hope pro 2 Evo from CRC.

  151. #151
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    Definitely not the cheapest. You should be able to pick up the 771 hub for around $50 on eBay or Aliexpress but you'd still need to spring for the adapters which I haven't seen elsewhere

  152. #152
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    Cool, yeah thanks again. That guy must have a pretty lucrative business going.

  153. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    So my fears of Boost148 have been resolved.

    Brandon just emailed me and said that Boost hubs will be on his website around the October time frame.

    Time to build a proper B+ hardtail!
    I had to google it =
    “Boost 148,” which in non-marketing speak measures out to 148x12mm, is targeted at 29ers, with the primary goal being increased wheel stiffness via an increase in the distance between hub flanges. Increasing the width of the base of the triangle made by the spokes and flanges of the hub shell increases lateral stiffness.

    Hokie ~ yer wife won't let you have ANOTHER bike!!
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  154. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Can anyone suggest an affordable front hub that can run a 9x100 thru axle? need something to pair with the 270. Would be awesome if I could convert the 15x100 on the bhs hub to a 9x100.
    BHS hubs are convertible, I have the 9x100
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_0378.jpg
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  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burt4x4 View Post
    BHS hubs are convertible, I have the 9x100
    Click image for larger version. 

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    That looks like a standard QR, meant one of these guys.
    DT Swiss - RWS Thru bolt

    I know it's kind of an anal thing but I already have them on my current cross bike and I really prefer the setup over a typical QR.

  156. #156
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    Oh I see, hmmm.. what endcap does that work with?

    I'm using XT Skewers..
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  157. #157
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    Bitex makes that end cap but Bike Hub Store doesn't sell it.

    Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub
    I like turtles

  158. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Bitex makes that end cap but Bike Hub Store doesn't sell it.

    Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub
    Great News! Now I just have to track one down, could be difficult.

  159. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Great News! Now I just have to track one down, could be difficult.
    Let's just all harass the crap outta Brandon until he carries them.
    I like turtles

  160. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    Let's just all harass the crap outta Brandon until he carries them.
    Email already sent!

  161. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Email already sent!
    I like turtles

  162. #162
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    I'm wondering if this adapter might possibly work? 80497 New Force Adaptor for 9 mm Axle for Front Basic 4 in 1 Hubs | eBay

  163. #163
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    Wow... Looks promising.
    I like turtles

  164. #164
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    This is the Force 4 in 1 hub 80480_5 New Force Basic 4 in 1 Front Disc Hub 6 holes Variable Option - EU Bikeshop
    You have to buy the axle separately, so will run~$44 (plus shipping)
    Says it's a Novatec hub, looks like the D991SB D991SB (FH) - Novatec

    I think Brandon is the way to go if he can get the Bitex adapter.

  165. #165
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    Brandon says he is carrying them now so...problem solved

  166. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Brandon says he is carrying them now so...problem solved
    Too damn cool. Now if we can just get him to get 9mm thru axles for 135mm fat bike forks, all will be right with the world.
    I like turtles

  167. #167
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    Here's another option for using a 9mm thru axle type front skewer:

    15mm thru Axle Hub Adapter to 9mm Quick Release Skewer 15mm thru Hub Adapter | eBay

    Order the 15mm hub and this axle insert which steps it down to 9mm. Probably what I will do when I built up my BHS wheelset this winter.

  168. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    Can anyone suggest an affordable front hub that can run a 9x100 thru axle? need something to pair with the 270. Would be awesome if I could convert the 15x100 on the bhs hub to a 9x100.
    Get the 15mm hub from bikehubstore and then get one of these adapters.
    MTB Tools Mountain Bike 15mm thru Axle to 9mm Quick Release Wheel Adapter | eBay
    Done.

  169. #169
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    So, has anyone built a wheelset with BHS and the WTB i29 Asym wheels that just came out? Curious as to what spoke length you need, as this is an asymmetrical rim.

  170. #170
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    The offset gets added to the hub's one side center to flange spacing number and subtracted from the other side. Very simple. Just think about where the center of the spoke bed is in relation to a normal rim (wide part of offset facing front disc, rear cassette). Doesn't change anything else on the spoke calc.

    Use the WheelPro Spokecalc calculator... It lets you enter and offset and shows the correction. Makes perfect send when you see it.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  171. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    So my fears of Boost148 have been resolved.

    Brandon just emailed me and said that Boost hubs will be on his website around the October time frame.

    Time to build a proper B+ hardtail!
    I'm in the prep stage of building my B+ hardtail too (checkout the new Advocate Cycles Hayduke). Still trying to figure out which hub I'm gonna use. Anything new regarding availability of Boost hubs?

  172. #172
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    The Boost148 MTB270 (Bitex MTR12-148) is on Bitex's website.

    As you quoted, Brandon with BHS told me October. Might be worth shooting him an email?

    [email protected]

    BTW: nice score on the Hayduke! Didn't know they were available yet?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  173. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post

    BTW: nice score on the Hayduke! Didn't know they were available yet?
    Well, available, not exactly as it is not in my hands yet. But I signed up thru their Indiegogo campaign and if all goes on schedule should be shipping soon. Cant wait!

    I did email the email address you listed 2 weeks ago but never heard back. Maybe I'll send it again...

  174. #174
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    Oddly enough, just got an email from Brandon at BHS saying he'll be helping out at the Bitex booth at Interbike. So he's emailing
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  175. #175
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    So I got a wheelset with Bitex Hubs built from XM Carbon Speed (Peter). The idea was to use the same Wheelset for CX and XC racing so I ordered an XD driver from them and a Shimano driver from the bike hub store.

    The BHS driver is about 1.6mm too big to fit in the hub. The two sets of hubs I have look absolutely identical on the outside. The pawls are the same design and the ratchet teeth look the same except the ones I got with my wheelset are silver and the ones from BHS are a darker color.

    Is anyone else aware of multiple versions of this same hub? Kinda frustrated that as of right now, I can't use mine on my cross bike!

  176. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusty904 View Post
    So I got a wheelset with Bitex Hubs built from XM Carbon Speed (Peter). The idea was to use the same Wheelset for CX and XC racing so I ordered an XD driver from them and a Shimano driver from the bike hub store.

    The BHS driver is about 1.6mm too big to fit in the hub. The two sets of hubs I have look absolutely identical on the outside. The pawls are the same design and the ratchet teeth look the same except the ones I got with my wheelset are silver and the ones from BHS are a darker color.

    Is anyone else aware of multiple versions of this same hub? Kinda frustrated that as of right now, I can't use mine on my cross bike!
    I was looking at bitex website and doesn't seem like there are different versions...
    Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub

    So you are saying the diameter of the freehub from BHS is 1.6mm bigger than the diameter of the XD freehub(the portion that goes into the hub)?
    Are the pawls removable? If so maybe try removing all the pawls to see if it fits?

  177. #177
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    Correct, I did try pawl removal, no dice. XD driver freehub goes in and out pretty easily, more so into the hub from the bike hub store. Will try to post some pics after work.

  178. #178
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    Brandon just emailed me...

    The MTB270 Boost148 is up on their website.

    MTR Boost Rear Disc Hub

    What I'm not clear on, is if it's actually Boost148, or a 150x12 hub that has a 148 axle?

    If it's a true Boost148, the rotor and cassette should both be moved 3mm outboard.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  179. #179
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    It kind of looks like its a boost 148 hub. It's about 12 mm wider flange to flange than the normal MTB270 (which looks to be a 135 based hub).

  180. #180
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    Brandon responded:

    The flange spacing is wider – new mold. It’s not accomplished by axles/endcaps. Now, on the front – they’re still working on this. The temporary solution is 15x110mm end caps for the MTB180
    Last edited by 06HokieMTB; 10-15-2015 at 07:32 PM.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  181. #181
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    Really interested in these hubs.
    Ride a 2012 Trek Cobia and the stock wheels are pretty much garbage. 17mm internal.
    Have a good riding buddy that can build wheels.
    Thinking about going with the Easton Arc 30 and the Mtb270.
    Not sure what size tire I can fit back there though.
    Only going rear for now. Too damn broke.

    You guys still loving these hubs?


    Sent from my R2 unit.

  182. #182
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    Yep. Replacing the rear M529 hub on my wife's Spearfish with an MTB270.
    Also doing a 170 fatbike set for my brother shortly.
    Just put a 130mm rear on my commuting bike and it blows away the hub that came on it.
    I like turtles

  183. #183
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    So just built a rear wheel with an i23 and this hub, and rode it for the first time last night. Felt great the the POE was really nice to have coming from a x9 hub with like 7 POE.

    One thing that surprised me was how quiet it was. Maybe it was some of you guys saying that it was loud so maybe I was expecting louder, but riding last night, I really couldnt hear it over the leaves. Maybe its louder when riding on a clean trail, but still not bad. It was also a solo night ride, so everything around me was dead quiet.

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregers05 View Post
    So just built a rear wheel with an i23 and this hub, and rode it for the first time last night. Felt great the the POE was really nice to have coming from a x9 hub with like 7 POE.

    One thing that surprised me was how quiet it was. Maybe it was some of you guys saying that it was loud so maybe I was expecting louder, but riding last night, I really couldnt hear it over the leaves. Maybe its louder when riding on a clean trail, but still not bad. It was also a solo night ride, so everything around me was dead quiet.
    I agree. I don't like loud hubs and was kind of worried about this hub when I bought it due to the reviews I have read. However, I find that while the hub is not quiet, it is really not that loud either. But most importantly, I find that I really like the sound that this hub makes....not sure why.

  185. #185
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    Been flogging a set of these on my hardtail for about 9 months. No issue. Best cheap hubs ever. I've got a set of these on one bike and I9s ont he other. Other than the fact that the i9s are a gnat's ass lighter and have a little higher POE I'm not really partial to one over the other.

  186. #186
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    I find the sound is similar to a tire leak, pssssssss. First time I rode em I was constantly freaking out I had a leak lol.

    Great hubs, look forward to many more miles on mine.

  187. #187
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    As also wine who posted above about the racket of these hubs-
    I usually don't notice them and then when I do, like Lithi said, I think what he heck is that noise?

    But- these hubs will be on many builds to come. They are just too good and too low cost not to consider as my go to hub.
    Although I have no real builds coming up.

    -JCB
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  188. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    As also wine who posted above about the racket of these hubs-
    I usually don't notice them and then when I do, like Lithi said, I think what he heck is that noise?

    But- these hubs will be on many builds to come. They are just too good and too low cost not to consider as my go to hub.
    Although I have no real builds coming up.

    -JCB
    Ya know, i have to wonder if we're screwing ourselves.

    If we keep stating how much we like these hubs, we're basically shifting the economic demand curve... ie: the more we rave, the more BHS can raise the price?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  189. #189
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    Hokie- I agree somewhat.
    But I'd bet that the numbers of us stacked up is nothing compared to what they sell.
    Bet most folks stick em on their bikes then go ride. Prob don't post much online.

    But even still- they won't ever cost what a DT, Hope, or King costs. Well, let's hope not. Get too close to that line and I'm jumping ship just for the Made in USA King-ness or back to DT because they just are wonderful.
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  190. #190
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    So there is elasticity to our demand. Gotcha.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  191. #191
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    I'm currently saving to build what's going to be a pretty expensive bike. I'm feeling like it's ALMOST wrong to use these hubs because they're not expensive enough.
    I think I'll get past that and use em.
    I like turtles

  192. #192
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    I have an MTB270 on a 6" carbon AM bike
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  193. #193
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    Is the MTB270 hub a good choice for rough All Mountain applications?

  194. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus View Post
    Is the MTB270 hub a good choice for rough All Mountain applications?
    It'll be fine.
    I like turtles

  195. #195
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    NYRR-
    Isn't that funny? Wanting to build up something amazing and trick and not wanting to use a solid low cost option?
    I wish I could say I don't know what you're talking about but my bikes tell a different story.
    Wheels are one area of the bike that us tweakers really like to tweak over.

    To your wallet- I hope you use the BHS hubs.
    To what would be my vanity and gucci part lust- get something with some bling! Or at the least, do something to make the BHS hubs look better.

    -JCB
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  196. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    NYRR-
    Isn't that funny? Wanting to build up something amazing and trick and not wanting to use a solid low cost option?
    I wish I could say I don't know what you're talking about but my bikes tell a different story.
    Wheels are one area of the bike that us tweakers really like to tweak over.

    To your wallet- I hope you use the BHS hubs.
    To what would be my vanity and gucci part lust- get something with some bling! Or at the least, do something to make the BHS hubs look better.

    -JCB
    Whatever I use, it will be black, so BHS hubs fill the bill. I'm certainly going to use them.
    I like turtles

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus View Post
    Is the MTB270 hub a good choice for rough All Mountain applications?
    lol. Look at my post, directly above yours

    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    I have an MTB270 on a 6" carbon AM bike
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  198. #198
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    Going to grab some of these hubs for a WTB asym i29 build, but unfortunately I'm stuck with QR dropouts. Since it's a hardtail, I'll probably go with standard QR dropouts in back, but can't help but wonder if I should go with the 9mm thru-axle up front or one of the 15mm to 9mm QR axle adapters linked to previously. Main concern is clamping down the QR and preloading the cartridge bearings. I looked at the bitex website, and it looks like the axle ends are locked down to prevent side compression when clamping with a QR.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

  199. #199
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    Anyone having trouble with SRAM cassette being loose? The engagement is a hair off and allows a few degrees of radial play without any visible wear or damage to either part (cassette or freehub). This cassette has the first 4 large gears on a common Al hub and all the others gears are all individually stacked with spacers. The individual gears do dig into the al freehub a bit but somehow engage better than the main cassette.
    Also, the cassette nut bottoms out on the freehub before all the cogs and spacers get fully tight. I am running 10x on a 11x SRAM 1070 with OEM spacer. I know I need to add another .5mm shim or something to make it all tight.

  200. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommybees View Post
    Anyone having trouble with SRAM cassette being loose? The engagement is a hair off and allows a few degrees of radial play without any visible wear or damage to either part (cassette or freehub). This cassette has the first 4 large gears on a common Al hub and all the others gears are all individually stacked with spacers. The individual gears do dig into the al freehub a bit but somehow engage better than the main cassette.
    Also, the cassette nut bottoms out on the freehub before all the cogs and spacers get fully tight. I am running 10x on a 11x SRAM 1070 with OEM spacer. I know I need to add another .5mm shim or something to make it all tight.
    I got a spacer or shim from Bike Hub Store which took up this space, if I understand you correctly. The fellow there will know exactly what you need.

    I had a pair of 29" Stan's Flows built on these hubs in spring, and so far they have been fine. They seem plenty smooth and free-spinning. They have a solid "feel" and sound, but are nice and quiet. I can tell a King hub from fifty yards away, by the annoying buzz. I am very happy with my Bike Hub Store hubs.
    "Get a bicycle. You will not regret it, if you live."
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