Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 & MTB180 hubs - Page 3- Mtbr.com
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  1. #401
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    Sure, the pic is up the page a little bit, post #379. With another hundred fifty miles on the freehub, the gouges dont really look much worse, but the socket deformation continues. Not really much you can do about that, since its going to happen to any alloy simply from the torque. But if the pawls are skipping because the spring tension is too weak, they have a little extra momentum when they finally slam home into the gear ring.

    I will admit my original description was a bit lacking. And switching to a lighter weight oil and stretching the springs a bit has seemed to help, at least in my quick test. Like I mentioned, the clacking of the pawls slapping sounds more even now, likely due to the more even spring tensions. But IMO the spring tension should be enough to overcome whatever oil or grease I put in there.

    Maybe there's a subtle difference in the XD driver springs, or maybe its because I bought the discount BITEX branded hubs from BHS. But either way, the pawl tension is considerably lower than even the koozers were and not even in the same universe as a hope. Granted leaf vs compression springs are apples and oranges, but in practical application the results are the same. Hopefully that will explain my desire to get a hold of some beefier springs.

  2. #402
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    sorry, totally missed that. I'd still try contacting Brandon, if e-mail doesn't work I'd try a phone call. .
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  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    sorry, totally missed that. I'd still try contacting Brandon, if e-mail doesn't work I'd try a phone call. .
    Ill let you guys know what he thinks...

  4. #404
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    I've been watching this, thought I'd throw my 2c in.

    If one or more pawls don't engage, the load on the freehub won't be symmetrically supported, pushing the freehub off center and creating the gouging you're seeing. This would likely cause inconsistencies in engagement or skipping. I think Guits is on the right path looking at the pawl springs and ensuring free movement.

    I've cleaned and lubed my new hubs drive mechanism, it was pretty well lubed out of the box. I'd suggest checking the lube and torque of any new parts before use, I've found many poorly assembled parts of all types over the years. If they miss some grease on the assembly line it could easily lead to these kind of problems. And if some better springs are available, I'll grab a set as a preventative upgrade for sure. Especially if they're color matched, carbon wrapped titanium, lol!!

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    With all due respect to the senior members of this thread, I disagree.

    I do have visible pawl socket deformation, and gouging on the freehub body from the teeth of the ratchet ring. When riding it occasionally will feel like the engagement is not as quick, or that the pawls skip one tooth before engaging. With the hub disassembled, two of the pawls had noticeably less spring tension than the other four. I am not simply imagining these things.

    Maybe the hub would have continued to live a long and fulfilling life on its own, and these minor issues never would have turned into anything threatening. But if I can make a small and inexpensive tweak to help insure it doesn't grenade under my clydeness, why do you guys feel the need to talk me out of it?

    Yes, I agree that these hubs are far better out of the box than the koozers are, but I'm not convinced theyre quite DT or Hope either. Thats not a bad thing, since theyre substantially cheaper, and work very well just the same.

    And yes, I was obviously kidding.
    When my Hopes start doing exactly the same thing, I replace the bearings. Cures it. You need to do it before too much damage is done.
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  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    When my Hopes start doing exactly the same thing, I replace the bearings. Cures it. You need to do it before too much damage is done.
    The hubs have less than 1000 miles on them, and the bearings still seem tight and smooth. I suspect the flex has something to do with a 230 lb gymrat furiously mashing away on 28/46 gearing with plus tire traction, on a 10x135 thru axle that's not supporting the hub axle in the middle. Its the exact recipe you'll find in the hub destroyers cookbook.

    Still, its information that is worth paying attention to. I will keep an eye on the bearings and make sure theyre not the source of any runout or deflection.

  7. #407
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    ALL of my hubs require annual attention. I weigh about 255 right now. I will get skipping and ultimately, stripped ratchet rings on any hub if I don't change the bearings annually.
    Now, since I have lotsa wheels, I have to keep a log so a wheel that doesn't get ridden a lot unnecessarily gets bearings.
    I have wrinkled aluminum Hope drivers behind the pawls. I run steel on everything now.
    I still have an alloy driver on a BHS hub on my Dahon commuter bike. That bike only gets ridden on pavement and so far, two years and still going strong. I'll probably put bearings in that hub this year for good measure.
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  8. #408
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    Here was Brandon's response after sending him the pic and description:

    Iím not sure there is a problem here. Occasionally one pawl will engage a little late when under load, creating a kind of popping sound. This is something that is known to happen with 6 pawl freehubs like the kind Bitex uses. This is not something we see often, if at all, really. We sell over XXXX of these hubs every year (MTB270) and see very few freehub/pawl failures of any kind
    He did offer some replacement parts, but apparently skipping teeth is par for the course?

    Anyway, new springs are on the slow boat from China just the same.

  9. #409
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    I have a MTB270 that exhibits the "skipping tooth" symptom. It happens when applying heavy power after a short period of freewheeling, like pausing the pedals to avoid a pedal strike then getting back on the gas. I am using it in a single speed configuration. I pulled the freehub off to investigate. I removed the freehub seal then reassembled without it. Like this you can see the pawls engaging the ratchet ring.

    I found one pawl was out of "time". The other 5 are fully engaged into the ratchet and this one had barely crested the "peak" of its respective tooth.

    It doesn't seem to me like this could be corrected by a heavier spring of a different lube. It is a machining issue where the pawl seat is not evenly indexed with the others.

    I have contemplated ordering another freehub but decided to leave it alone until it happens more frequently, I can see excessive wear or impending damage.

  10. #410
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    They are offset in two groups of 3 pawls. So 5 should never be fully engaged at a time. Only 3 should be engaged at a time while the other 3 are mid way up the ramp.

    I suspect maybe youre having a difficult time observing them through the window youve created, but if you are indeed correct, youre right that it would not be fixable, you would need a new freehub. If you want to prove it one way or another, check the measurements between pawls. You should get alternating measurements, in two groups of 3.

  11. #411
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    Yes. My mistake. 1 out of the group of 3. I was thinking 6-1=5 while typing my post.

    The pawls and ratchet ring can indeed be seen clearly with the seal removed.

  12. #412
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    Also while freewheeling the bike in the stand, or slowly riding on smooth ground, you can hear a pawl out of time with the rest. There is a single click that is out of rhythm with the consistent buzz during every revolution of the wheel.

  13. #413
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    I just finished lacing up a set of wheels with BHS's boost hubs. First set of them I've seen. They have the exact same brown anodized driver as all their other stuff. Nice hubs, exactly as I expected.
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  14. #414
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    I've been hammering on mine since last summer. The aluminum freehub body lasted about 50 miles on my fat bike before I swapped it and it took some work to get the cassette off (reason I quickly replaced with the steel version). Cassette gouged it and I was having some skipping. But I'm 275lbs on a fat bike with low gearing of 26/42 and wasn't nice to it.

    Steel freehub body since then and not a single issue.

    Aluminum body sits in the drawer for replacement pawls, springs or bearings when I need them. Still useable but with what my fat bike has already gone through since the new wheel build, not touched the hubs since install yet and everything is like new, don't see anything failing majorly on me.

    Everyone should know by now though:

    If your a clyde and mash on your drive train, stay away from aluminum freehubs. Your going to have issues regardless of brand. Going to destroy them.

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  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I just finished lacing up a set of wheels with BHS's boost hubs. First set of them I've seen. They have the exact same brown anodized driver as all their other stuff. Nice hubs, exactly as I expected.
    Good to know. Thinking of using BHS Boost vs DT350 for new build. I can get Hope Pro 4 at employee price but they're too loud. BHS weight and cost can't be beat, and durability is not questionable. The 3 sets nonBoost are doing well other than 1 which I let get loose and destroyed hub shell teeth. My bad!

  16. #416
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    Can y'all help me out I am going nuts tracking down some play in my front wheel.

    Setup...
    MTB180 laced to a Flow EX
    Bolted to a Fox 36 - 20mm caps
    SRAM Guide RSC brake
    Shimano RT66 rotor 180mm

    Fork/wheel about 18mo of hard riding
    Brake basically brand new, 5-6 rides

    When I hold the front brake I can grab the tire and get an *almost* imperceptible amount of fore/aft play in the system.

    I've ruled out the headset as I can do this with the bike hanging and a zip tie holding constant pressure on the brake. Holding wheel and fork, I get the play. Also of note, all rotor bolts are tight

    I can't really see the movement except up at the rim. Like I said almost imperceptible AMT of play. But it's definitely there...and it didn't used to be. And it's freaking me out on my new build.

    Is the front hub body and disc mount one piece? Or is there any kind of interface that could develop play? Similar to the rear wheel, is there anything that could come loose over time on this front hub? I know on the rear you should check your axle nuts every so often.

    Is A fastened or forged to B - one place to start? Photo below...



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  17. #417
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    I think that's all one piece. Could be the pads moving in the caliper.
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  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Can y'all help me out I am going nuts tracking down some play in my front wheel.

    Is A fastened or forged to B - one place to start? Photo below...



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    A and B are one piece, ie. constituting the hub shell. I literally just rebuilt a front wheel replacing old hub with the BHS hub.

    Btw, if you are holding the brake and checking for movement, and you get movement it usually is the headset/headtube. The brake locks the wheel so it can't move, ie. its locked out. The only other major moveable part is the headset ignoring play in the fork stanchions.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I think that's all one piece. Could be the pads moving in the caliper.
    This. Shimano brakes are terrible for this, but any brake can do it. The Pads rock back and forth on the center pin.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    This. Shimano brakes are terrible for this, but any brake can do it. The Pads rock back and forth on the center pin.
    They will move the first time you grab the brake. But after that that's it. Pads should not rock back and forth while clamped, otherwise you'd have some serious brake issues.

  21. #421
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    I have had ample Shimano pad slip in such a back/forth test.
    Many levels of brakes, many calipers.
    Pull super hard and the pads are much less likely to do this. That's one test.
    In my experience it's not a severe brake issue. Just a teeny bit of play that most brake models have.

    Another might be to turn the bars 90į.
    If it's still happening it could be the headset.

    When the wheel isn't turned that 90į- slide your hand down the upper stanchion so that your thumb is lightly pinched between the upper stanchion and the fork crown.
    Then when you rock it you might be able to clearly feel possible play between the upper/lower stanchions.

    And here's one you can all chime in to tell me I'm wrong but I've experienced this:
    Every now and then when I've done that F brake rock back forth, I've felt play at the rear shock bushings slightly reverberate to mimic a loose headset. I know I know... can't be. Impossible. (And I wasn't holding the rear brake st all).
    It's been baffling but dammit I've felt it.

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  22. #422
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    Fantastic replies all. Thanks. I'll further investigate the brake. Like I said this happens when the bike is hanging (by the saddle) and I have one hand on the wheel, one on the fork, zip tie on the brake. Pretty confident that rules out the headset.

    Cheers!

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  23. #423
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    Other thing to check is the mounting bolts to the fork for the brake caliper itself. They could have worked themselves lose and allow the caliper to move slightly. There could also be a slight bit of play in the end caps of the hub so I would check everything and clean all interfaces real well to ensure that you dont have some random grain of sand that is not allowing the hub to not mount fully on one side to the fork and giving you that small amount of play.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregnash View Post
    Other thing to check is the mounting bolts to the fork for the brake caliper itself. They could have worked themselves lose and allow the caliper to move slightly. There could also be a slight bit of play in the end caps of the hub so I would check everything and clean all interfaces real well to ensure that you dont have some random grain of sand that is not allowing the hub to not mount fully on one side to the fork and giving you that small amount of play.
    All good points here. Another simple issue to the problem can be just a slightly loose axle. Thru axles do and will come loose if left alone long enough. Just this slight movement and being un-tight can cause problems with braking and hub performance. As mentioned, check ALL related points of contact and bolts!
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  25. #425
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    So my new pawl springs arrived after a few weeks waiting for them to come in from china. I ordered size 2mm OD, 5mm OAL, 0.3mm coil thickness. The new springs are substantially thicker. I didn't even think they were going to fit, but they did fit just fine. The pawls were noticeably firmer, which is what I was hoping for.

    Here's a comparison between the original and new pawl springs. You can see the new ones are much beefier, and fewer coils, resulting in a higher spring rate.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-palw_springs_compare.jpg

    Here are all six of my original pawl springs. Hard to tell from the picture, but some springs appear to be more compressed than others. There was a noticeable variation a couple weeks ago, before I stretched a couple springs to give them some more life.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-pawl_springs_orig.jpg

    Here are the new pawl springs installed.
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-pawl_springs_installed.jpg

    This hub is LOUD. Like extremely loud. Its considerably louder than my buddies hope pro 4, as well as another buddy still riding his koozers. I notice the wheel has quite a bit more drag when freewheeling on the bike stand, but its obviously impossible to notice while riding. While turning it slowly by hand, its easy to hear the pawls being slightly out of time with one another. Theres probably only a degree or two variation, but its a little disconcerting that you could potentially have only one or two pawls catch on the rare occasion.

    Out on the trail, the new pawl springs seem to engage with authority and confidence. I did not notice a single skip or any slow engagement. Perhaps only because of the loudness of the buzz, the annoying clunk is no longer noticeable when engaging hard.

    Overall, the new springs may be a bit overkill. Though I greatly prefer them to the anemic stock springs I had, I may order a slightly lighter spring, maybe with a .2 mm thickness, instead of the .3 thickness I have now. My fear is that the pawls and ratchet ring may wear faster because of the added spring rate. But maybe the springs will soften slightly after a few more rides. Ill post back and let you guys know how the settle in.

  26. #426
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    Do you have a link for those exact springs? I'd like to get a set too for my 270.

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  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    Do you have a link for those exact springs? I'd like to get a set too for my 270.
    Before I link you, theres a few things you need to fully understand.

    1. These springs are probably not necessary (nor advisable) for most users. In most cases the stock springs are plenty. I feel like I may have had a bad batch, and I was having some issues with the freehub skipping/slow engagement. If you dont have these issues, I suggest you leave well enough alone.

    2. These springs were for my hubs, which came with an xD driver. I cannot verify that the same springs will fit the normal shimano style freehub.

    3. These springs are completely untested. Aside from completely nullifying any warranty you may have, I cant vouch for how long these springs will last. Who knows, they could start breaking or soften up on me in the next few rides. I'm rolling the dice here.

    4. These springs could possibly do more harm than good. They are completely untested, and we have no way of knowing if there are any detrimental long term effects in running them. They could potentially wear out the pawls or ratchet ring much faster than they otherwise would.

    5. As I mentioned, these springs were probably overkill. The 0.3 mm thickness seems like its a bit heavier than I shoudl have gone. I may go with a slightly lighter 0.2 mm thickness spring in the near future.

    That said, if you're still interested, here is the ebay listing I purchased:

    25pcs Stainless Steel Compression Spring 0.3*2*5 | eBay

    Please note that the ebay item image does not match the springs in question.

  28. #428
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    Don't know if I wrote about it in this thread or another one but on my first ride on my first build (with 180/270 hubs) I felt kind of like a 1/4 revolution skip until it grabbed and noticed nothing irregular during the rest of the ride.
    I got home and removed the pawls and also noticed that not all of the springs were the same length so I stretched them all out a little to match the longest one and it's been fine ever since.
    I like the upgraded spring idea.
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  29. #429
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    Update on Heavier Springs:

    The 0.3 mm coil thickness springs were a bit too heavy, so last night I swapped them out to new 0.2 mm coil thicness springs. Upon disassembly, I saw that one of teh heavier springs had actually broken at some point in the last 100 to 150 miles. The pawl was still operating, as only one coil had broken off. The broken coil had worked itself out of the ratchet ring and up against the seal, so it wasn't doing any damage. The springs were nowhere near coil bind, so IMO its simply too heavy a spring, and it simply succumbed to fatigue.

    The lighter weight 0.2 mm springs have more coils, so fatigue life should be extended a bit. Its hard to remember how the stock springs sounded, but the new springs are FAR quieter than the 0.3 mm springs were. I'll miss the rattle snake sound a bit, but hopefully this will be a good middle ground. I have not yet gone for a ride on them yet, but theres a lot less resistance spinning the wheel by hand.

  30. #430
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    Does anyone have an extra mtb270 XD driver body they can sell? I have the Shimano splined freehub but I have 2 XD cassettes i wanna use. Wanted to save before buying new from the store.

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by kikoraa View Post
    Does anyone have an extra mtb270 XD driver body they can sell? I have the Shimano splined freehub but I have 2 XD cassettes i wanna use. Wanted to save before buying new from the store.
    Unfortunately buying from BHS at full pop may be your only option. Ive been all over ebay, aliexpress, DH gate, and the rest of the usual "asian direct" sites without any luck tracking down a bitex XD driver. Assuming nobody is willing to part with theirs.

  32. #432
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    Ill just say it first, buy one from brandon at BHS. Hes a long time member here, and at RBR. Hes an actual rider running a really cool small business. He responds to emails personally and he'll do what he can to help you out. Plus the product is good.

    That said, bitex will definitely sell you whatever bitex part you want. It'll take forever to show up. They do have a website. Ive done many, many orders with bitex and honestly its a huge pain in the ass. Its always right in the end, but getting to the end isnt necessarily smooth or fun.

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    That said, bitex will definitely sell you whatever bitex part you want. It'll take forever to show up. They do have a website. Ive done many, many orders with bitex and honestly its a huge pain in the ass. Its always right in the end, but getting to the end isnt necessarily smooth or fun.
    Ive seen the UK site that you can order from, but the prices are over what BHS sells for. Ive seen what I believe is the bitex corporate site Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub, but it doesnt appear that you can order. They have links to distributors, and BHS is the only one stateside.

    As for Brandon, and BHS, I like the guy, but it can sometimes take a couple of tries to get in touch with him. My first email went unanswered, but he eventually responded to a followup. Though in all fairness, I only emailed, and did not try to give him a phone call.

    He didn't exactly offer any resolution when my freehub was skipping, and my springs barely had any pressure. I believe his words were "I dont think there's really a problem here". I had to tinker around and come up with my own solution to stop the freehub from getting gouged. Though the freehub never failed, or even close, so it doesn't really count as a warranty issue either. As I mentioned in a previous post, the freehub may have lived on for years with the occasional skip, pop, and some cosmetic gouging. My efforts were towards nipping the problem in the bud.

    He's probably like every other small business owner, overwhelmed, just trying to keep his head above water. I know its not personal, but it does make it frustrating when you have a problem, or are trying to find a specific item. When you do get in touch with him, he does seem to be a down to earth and genuinely nice enough guy.

    Any difficulties aside, you'll be hard pressed to find any other hub this strong for this price. I would be remiss if I did not continue to recommend the hubs to family and friends as a great budget option.

    EDIT:
    I did receive an email from Brandon apologizing for missing my emails, and offering replacement parts. He's not sure how the emails went missing, but I have to concede that its equal parts my fault for not trying to contact him by phone. Regardless, I dont think any replacement parts are necessary at this point since the freehub is working well now. But his contacting me does go a long way in reaffirming my faith in BHS. Thanks, Brandon, for tracking me down to make sure I was a happy customer.
    Last edited by GuitsBoy; 08-23-2017 at 08:58 AM.

  34. #434
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    Hey dudes. Totally blew out the bearing closest to the pawls on my mtb270
    Any idea what I'll need for a replacement?

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  35. #435
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    Just ordered a Boost148 hub. I think this is my 6th rear hub from Brandon. Couldn't be happier.

    Sold a 3 year old MTB270 on a bike yesterday... was still going strong. It did have some decent gouging on the freehub from the shimano cassette. It was the older alloy freehub. This has been addressed with the anti-bite inserts on the new alloy freehubs, or with the steel freehubs.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  36. #436
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    BTW: the only thing I've noticed with these hubs is that frequent wheel swaps/installs can cause the end caps to loosen on the thru axle. The end cap keeps the freehub tight against the bearing, which keeps the pawls supported in the drive ring. If the end caps aren't tight, I can see how play can develop between the pawls and the drive ring. (Maybe that caused some of carnage that others recently saw?)

    You can feel lateral play in the wheel/hub when the end caps are loose. (Hold the bike and push the wheel/tire side to side.)

    Moral of the story? Add a drop or two of Loctite to the end cap threads, keep 'em torqued and they seem to last forever!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  37. #437
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    Looking at using these for a road wheel build. Anyone have any better suggestions for a 12x142 rear/15mm front setup? I think literally the only thing that could be better is a Bitex road disc setup that maybe shaves weight....

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  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Looking at using these for a road wheel build. Anyone have any better suggestions for a 12x142 rear/15mm front setup? I think literally the only thing that could be better is a Bitex road disc setup that maybe shaves weight....

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  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    BHS hubs are Bitex hubs.
    Lol. I got it man. I'm just saying I wonder if the only thing better than a MTB270/180 setup for road would be if Bitex made a road specific set...but I don't think they do!

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  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lithified View Post
    Lol. I got it man. I'm just saying I wonder if the only thing better than a MTB270/180 setup for road would be if Bitex made a road specific set...but I don't think they do!

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    They do but they are not disc brake compatible.
    SL210 SuperLight Rear Road Hub
    SuperLight Wide Front Hub

    All of their road hubs are listed here. Road Hubs

    Edit: It looks like they do have centerlock hubs. Bitex BX106R Rear Center Lock Disc Hub

  41. #441
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    Has anyone ordered the straight pull version of these hubs? I see BHS has them on the site, but there is an error if you click on them. I emailed Brandon yesterday asking about them, but dont have a reply yet.

    Thinking about doing a wheel build using one of the higher end Chinese carbon 28 hole and the straight pull version.

  42. #442
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    Converted a 142 MTB270 to Boost148 tonight.

    The idea came after looking at my buddies hubs (DT350 and Industry9) after they installed the Boostinator kits.

    Anyway, I bought a 148x12 thru axle from Brandon.

    Then I took an old aluminum end cap I had and cannibalized it, plus a thick 15mm ID washer that I had in my tool box.

    To do it from scratch, you'd need a 6mm thick spacer, that is 28mm OD/15mm ID.

    Install the 148 axle from the cassette side, slide on the 6mm (28/15 OD/ID) spacer against the Disc side outer bearing and then install the normal end cap. Do this on the Disc side. (The Boostinator kits only space the Disc side, the cassette side is essentially in the same place in the drive side of the frame.)

    Then install an eBay 6mm rotor spacer (again, Disc side... but I guess that's given).

    Wa-La.

  43. #443
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    Oh, I've also got two new Boost148 rear hubs (Bitex, from BHS) and can confirm that the 142 and 148 rear hubs use the same freehub.

    I converted a new Boost148 Shimano hub to XD with an MTB270 XD driver that I had.

    Frickin love these hubs.

    The Boost148 BHS hubs look strikingly similar to the SRAM 900 Boost hubs. I think the POE is even the same. And SRAM advertises their 900 hubs to have an offset "DoubleTime" freehub, which also sounds strikingly similar to the way the offset pawls in the 56POE BHS/Bitex hubs operate... hmmm.

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Install the 148 axle from the cassette side, slide on the 6mm (28/15 OD/ID) spacer against the Disc side outer bearing and then install the normal end cap. Do this on the Disc side. (The Boostinator kits only space the Disc side, the cassette side is essentially in the same place in the drive side of the frame.)

    Then install an eBay 6mm rotor spacer (again, Disc side... but I guess that's given).

    Wa-La.
    Oh yeah, you're supposed to redish your wheel when you do this. I probably will the next time that I put the wheel on the truing stand. Luckily, my wife's new bike (Boost148 rear) has enough tire clearance that a 2.4 tire being slightly (maybe 3mm) out of dish is not noticeable and doesn't cause any clearance issues.

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Oh yeah, you're supposed to redish your wheel when you do this. I probably will the next time that I put the wheel on the truing stand. Luckily, my wife's new bike (Boost148 rear) has enough tire clearance that a 2.4 tire being slightly (maybe 3mm) out of dish is not noticeable and doesn't cause any clearance issues.
    Know what's funny? My wife has ZERO mechanical or engineering abilities but she would notice a wheel 3mm out of dish.
    I like turtles

  46. #446
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    Found the straight pull set online for a ridiculous price. $120 for the pair:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bite...809661675.html

    Can anyone confirm these are the same hubs as the ones found at BHS? If so, this price is nuts!

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by Krigloch View Post
    Hey dudes. Totally blew out the bearing closest to the pawls on my mtb270
    Any idea what I'll need for a replacement?

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    Well I was going to take a pic of the damage, but the bearing exploded in there. No damage anywhere else and the other bearings were just fine.
    Very weird, but a cheap fix

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  48. #448
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    Breaking in...

    How long was it before the end caps on the rear stopped loosening?
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by J: View Post
    How long was it before the end caps on the rear stopped loosening?
    I brought my bike in for service after about 6 months. The tech at the shop found my endcap was only finger tight.

    Not sure how quickly it became loose... but it did.

  50. #450
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    For break in period, it's normal to re-torque to spec @ first couple rides...should not continue to loosen up after snugging it back up to spec a coupl'a times, which is why I'm asking.

    I can feel it through the pedals when hammering up hill, cranks rotate forward slightly at high torque when the hub seems to slip EDIT*- it's not the pawls skipping either -
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  51. #451
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    I've never NOT had the rear endcaps be loose no matter how tight I torque them. I dont want to potentially crush the bearings, and I can feel drag when I torque it too much. I was considering a touch of threadlocker. Does anyone know what the proper torque spec is?

  52. #452
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    Cmon guys, it's not a torque issue. A couple of drops of blue thread locker on the first few threads of the Disc side of the axle (after you've inserted it through the hub)

  53. #453
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    Purple locite would probably be most appropriate. Purple should be used nearly everywhere people use blue.

  54. #454
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    While i don't disagree, I think blue is fine for this application. Either will work.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Cmon guys, it's not a torque issue. A couple of drops of blue thread locker on the first few threads of the Disc side of the axle (after you've inserted it through the hub)
    I'm always aware of and take note of how much play/how coarse threaded fasteners are on my bikes. If there's too much wiggle room, it gets addressed at assembly and during break in.

    This is on a 155mm steel hardtail, 180mm cranks and meaty rubbers...more than a little torque involved here

    It's getting less and less but taking quite a while to "break in"
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  56. #456
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    subbed, planning to pick these. hope they turn out as good as people say they are.

  57. #457
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    Can anyone comment on the drag or rolling resistance of these guys? In a 142x12 axle?
    Compared to say a DT Swiss 18t or 36t?
    Don't hate on the minivan!!!!!!!

  58. #458
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    When I ran DT 240s w/ a 36t, I noticed no difference in drag compared to the 18t.
    (though I did chip the 36t and go back to the 18t).
    And compared to the 18t DT240, I think the BHS hubs might (might?) spin more freely.

    On the down side, my hubs have a small knock when pedaling on choppy terrain.
    When there's lag in my pedal stroke and the terrain is rough, you can hear the paws re-engage after those occasional moments when pedal pressure slightly relents.

    No an issue. Just an odd sound. Pretty sure I can address it w/ some grease.

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  59. #459
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    Got a couple q's.

    1. Is the only difference between BX106F and MTB180 that the BX is centerlock, 180 is 6-bolt? Same question for the rear I guess (BX106R vs. MTB270).

    2. Do all the Bitex hubs use same end cap setups? e.g. will the BX106's convert just as easily as the 180/270 setup?

    3. For the MTB boost hubs, what are you guys using....the BX211 front/rear?


    I've got two different wheel builds coming up, one with Centerlocks (standard 142 on a gravel bike), and one for a new MTB with boost.

  60. #460
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    I opened up my rear bhs hub after a year and about 1000 kms since installing it. Most of these are trail miles, which included several wet rides and some river crossings. I was pleasantly surprised with how it has been holding up.

    Turning the axle by hand off the bike felt smooth, no gritty feeling, just like new. This was surely a good sign.
    Removed the freehub and there were was no marring from it hitting the drive ring on the side. My bhs fat hub on the other hand, does show some drive ring marks on the freehub body. I guess the increased width makes it flex more.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-fullsizerender-1-.jpg
    The condition of the outermost bearings was what really surprised me. They look brand spanking new. The grease is intact ant totally uncontaminated. They are definitely very well sealed. I even felt bad for popping them open. I didnt open the other bearings after having a look at those two.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-fullsizerender.jpg
    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-fullsizerender-2-.jpg

    I am happy with the hubs so far.

    Cheers

  61. #461
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    I picked up a BX centerlock. They're shipping with the anti bite freehubs now, so that's cool. 248g.

  62. #462
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    Is anyone else having issues with the outer surface of the freehub where the cassette slides on getting marred by the cassette? The cassette is getting stuck on the freehub because it is digging into the ridges on the freehub. Hope that makes sense.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregers05 View Post
    Is anyone else having issues with the outer surface of the freehub where the cassette slides on getting marred by the cassette? The cassette is getting stuck on the freehub because it is digging into the ridges on the freehub. Hope that makes sense.
    This is pretty common with aluminum freehubs and other people have experienced this with this hub. They make a heavy duty steel freehub for this reason that has an additional bearing in it for added stability. It has been posted awhile back on this thread for others with this problem. It is $10.00 more than the aluminum replacement, but it does fix that problem.

    MTB270 Heavy Duty Steel Freehub

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by noremorse1 View Post
    This is pretty common with aluminum freehubs and other people have experienced this with this hub. They make a heavy duty steel freehub for this reason that has an additional bearing in it for added stability. It has been posted awhile back on this thread for others with this problem. It is $10.00 more than the aluminum replacement, but it does fix that problem.

    MTB270 Heavy Duty Steel Freehub
    Yep. Not only these. My Hopes do it too. I try to get steel freehubs with any hub. Also helps to run an XT cassette.
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  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by noremorse1 View Post
    This is pretty common with aluminum freehubs and other people have experienced this with this hub. They make a heavy duty steel freehub for this reason that has an additional bearing in it for added stability. It has been posted awhile back on this thread for others with this problem. It is $10.00 more than the aluminum replacement, but it does fix that problem.

    MTB270 Heavy Duty Steel Freehub
    thanks. I never had the issue to this extent with other freehubs so was just curious. I am at the point where I am having to file down the burrs to get the cassette back on. I will look into the heavy duty, may be worth it, but not sure for the added weight. This freehub has been ridden on for 2 years, so maybe just replacing it every 2 years isnt terrible.

  66. #466
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    Freehubs

    Just go with the anti-bite version which has steel faces on half the grooves. Will solve the problem without adding hardly any weight. A lot of manufacturers have this type. There's also a full TI version now, but that is silly money.

  67. #467
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    Is there only the one source to buy these hubs or do they offer discount codes? It seems like most people bought theirs cheaper than the what the BHS lists them for..($159 for boost rear with XD/$89 front). I can get SRAM 900s a little bit cheaper, and they seem to be around the same weight with the same engagement, so I'm trying to decide which way to go with the next build.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haymarket View Post
    Is there only the one source to buy these hubs or do they offer discount codes? It seems like most people bought theirs cheaper than the what the BHS lists them for..($159 for boost rear with XD/$89 front). I can get SRAM 900s a little bit cheaper, and they seem to be around the same weight with the same engagement, so I'm trying to decide which way to go with the next build.
    You can find them on Ali Express for cheaper. Heck... you can get the 28-hole set with straight pull 100x15 front and 142x12 rear for $133.00 shipped.

    Downsides are... you are not supporting Brandon at BHS and he has been a very good dude to a lot of those here (me included). I dont mind spending my money local (or in the USA for that matter) when I know there is good service/people behind it.

    Also... it takes 2-3 weeks to ship for Aliexpress.

    I dont mind linking it in this case because BHS does not stock this item. Brandon had them... but I dont think he is going to get them back in.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Bite...809661675.html

  69. #469
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    You're paying a little extra with BHS for the warranty.... which is really very good. Its up there with the best. I suppose its up to you to decide what thats worth.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    You're paying a little extra with BHS for the warranty.... which is really very good. Its up there with the best. I suppose its up to you to decide what thats worth.
    Also a very good point. As I mentioned... Brandon has been very good to all of us who have done business with them. I have probably 8 orders from him.

    The only reason I consider buying the item I linked from Aliexpress is because BHS does not have the straight pull, 28-spoke, hubs listed. They did for a short period... and I emailed them to ask about them and if they would be back in stock. I have always gotten a reply from them but, for some reason, never got a reply to that inquiry.

  71. #471
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    So I ordered my hubs and rims (stans). Anyone mind double checking my calculation for spoke length?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-front.png  

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-rear.png  


  72. #472
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    I ran your measurements through Freespoke and got Front: 292/293.5 and rear:293.4/292.
    So, looks good.
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  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    I ran your measurements through Freespoke and got Front: 292/293.5 and rear:293.4/292.
    So, looks good.
    Thanks, I guess the main thing I was concerned with was plugging in the measurement specs from BHS. Some of the measurement abbreviations were different from the ones used in the calculator.

    mtbr180 front

    Technical Information:

    Weight 182g
    Length (OLD) 100mm
    Bearings 2x TPI Sealed Cartridge
    PCD Left 58mm, Right 45mm
    Right Flange-to-Center 36mm
    Left Flange-to-Center 23mm
    Hole Diameter 2.6mm
    Axle Al-7075
    Body CNC Machined Al-6061


    mtb270 rear

    Weight 278g (QR), 267g (12mm Thru)
    Length 135mm or 142mm
    Bearings 4 sealed TPI bearings
    Pawls 6
    Driveside PCD 58mm
    Non-Driveside PCD 58mm
    NDS Flange-to-Center 34.14mm
    DS Flange-to-Center 19.54mm
    Hole Diameter 2.7mm
    Axle Al-7075
    Body CNC Machined Al-6061

  74. #474
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    As long as your not relying on website number for measurements. Brandon is awesome but I ran into the measurements being way off on the website versus in my hand for the fat bike hubs.

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  75. #475
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    Just wanted to add that even light riders can chew up an alu freehub. This is about 6 months of riding, averaged out to about 2 rides per week.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_20170920_183106.jpg

  76. #476
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    Ah- that bit of indent isn't an issue.
    It takes much more gouging to be an issue.
    When you have to use your chain whip to reverse drive the smaller cogs to remove them- it gets annoying.
    But even then everything still works fine.
    Even shift gates of cogs seem to sync fine.

    I haven't experienced that on these hubs, but know it can get much worse and still be fine.

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  77. #477
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    Fair enough, but the cassette was totally stuck on. I've since filed the tops of the gouges so my new cassette could go on.

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoinSlot View Post
    Fair enough, but the cassette was totally stuck on. I've since filed the tops of the gouges so my new cassette could go on.
    MTB270 Heavy Duty Steel Freehub

  79. #479
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    The aluminum freehubs now have steel inserts, no need for a full steel one.

  80. #480
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    Steel inserts?
    I take it all back. Sure I've seen the aluminum freehibs gouge a bit but I've never experienced any actual problems due to it (except the occasional issues with cassette removal though that's more minor hurdle than real issue)

    But....
    Steel inserts? Well crap. That sounds like a perfect compromise.
    I just placed a BHS order. Wish I'd know.
    But thanks.

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  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    The aluminum freehubs now have steel inserts, no need for a full steel one.
    IDK, I've still dug the cassette into freehubs with the "anti-bite" steel inserts. (AC hub) Unless it was a race wheelset, I'd personally still choose a steel freehub.

    I was pretty surprised the first time I removed the cassette from my Bitex fatbike hub. (Non steel insert version) Even the 11t cog was dug in. I've not seen that before and my thought is that the aluminum Bitex freehubs are softer than most.

    Not the end of the world, it will be replaced with a steel one, just wish I knew that going in. I also wish it was an option when buying, like Hope, instead of being something that's an immediate and necessary upgrade.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  82. #482
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    I'm at about 1000 miles on my BHS hubs, been completely solid so far. I'm about #200, push a bigger gear than I probably should, so I'm thinking these are great hubs for the price..

  83. #483
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    I just did a service on my son's 907 built with BHS hubs about two years ago. He said his brakes needed to be bled. I bled the brakes, replaced the pads, oiled the chain and washed it. I am amazed how fast and long the rear wheel coasted in the stand.
    Made me think yet again how awesome these hubs are.
    I like turtles

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvibert View Post
    I had the same thing happen to my hub last season, after only a few hundred miles. I'm heavy and ride hard, but no drops whatsoever. When I removed the wheel to do some maintenance the freehub and cassette fell off the rest of the wheel. The freehub body (aluminum) showed gouging similar to the pictures from a few posts ago. I replaced the hub axle and rode it for a couple of months before the freehub started making noise and sticking occasionally when freewheeling. I switched to my backup wheel and am now in the process of picking out the parts for a new wheel, probably with a Hope hub. I may replace the freehub on this hub and keep it as a backup, but I won't ride it as a primary wheel anymore.

    Attachment 1127024

    Attachment 1127025
    I have had this exact same issue - I contacted Brandon and he said it was an isolated incident and sent me a new one quickly. I was doing some maintenance a while back and noticed a groove getting cut into the sleeve again, so i emailed Brandon to make him aware there is something going on with this hub but never received a response.

    Fast forward to a few weeks ago - I pulled the rear wheel to do some maintenance and cassette hit the ground which really pissed me off (they aren't cheap if damaged). Not to my surprise the sleeve broke again, I emailed Brandon hoping he could send a replacement and no response. I got the wheel rigged back on the bike so I can at least ride it but pretty disappointed with the lack of response when there is obviously something going on here.

    I will probably just go ahead and purchase a new sleeve (they aren't that expensive) since it doesn't seem Brandon is willing to help the second time around but it seems this will be a 1-2x a year replacement part for me.

    Other than that the hub has been good.

  85. #485
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    ^^^^i do not understand how y'all are snapping the axle.

    QR frame?
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    ^^^^i do not understand how y'all are snapping the axle.

    QR frame?
    I have a thru-axle - 12x142, I am not even sure how either but its happening.

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    I have a thru-axle - 12x142, I am not even sure how either but its happening.
    Same here, 12x142. I don't understand how it happens either, but it does.

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    pretty disappointed with the lack of response when there is obviously something going on here.
    He's much better responding through phone. I've been a little miffed by unanswered emails in the past as well, but to Brandon's point, I should have just picked up the phone.

    Still, it would be nice to see him get a better handle on this. One of the perils of being a small business owner, I guess.

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvibert View Post
    Same here, 12x142. I don't understand how it happens either, but it does.
    It seems where mine is breaking is at the spot where the spacer sits between the hub bearing and XD driver bearing. The spacer might be the culprit somehow, not 100% sure how but not sure what else would start to wear a groove into the sleeve eventually causing it to snap.

    The bearings all feel like brand new and spin freely, its an annoying occurrence because you don't know when it will break and there are no signs of it breaking when the wheel is tight inside the dropouts. The only way you know is when you pull the wheel and the cassette falls out unexpectedly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    It seems where mine is breaking is at the spot where the spacer sits between the hub bearing and XD driver bearing. The spacer might be the culprit somehow, not 100% sure how but not sure what else would start to wear a groove into the sleeve eventually causing it to snap.

    The bearings all feel like brand new and spin freely, its an annoying occurrence because you don't know when it will break and there are no signs of it breaking when the wheel is tight inside the dropouts. The only way you know is when you pull the wheel and the cassette falls out unexpectedly.
    I have had my last two emails to Brandon go unanswered as well.

    Funny that you mention that spacer. The last email I sent to him was trying to source the spacer as I lost mine when I was servicing my hub about a month back. I was unable to locate a new one... and even went to my LBS. However, they did have one the exact size I needed made out of nylon that seemed very sturdy. We put it in there as a temporary fix.

    If it is that space that is wearing a groove in the sleeve and snapping it... I wonder if my quick-fix might actually be better as nylon should not where a groove in a metal sleeve?

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by travman View Post
    It seems where mine is breaking is at the spot where the spacer sits between the hub bearing and XD driver bearing. The spacer might be the culprit somehow, not 100% sure how but not sure what else would start to wear a groove into the sleeve eventually causing it to snap.

    The bearings all feel like brand new and spin freely, its an annoying occurrence because you don't know when it will break and there are no signs of it breaking when the wheel is tight inside the dropouts. The only way you know is when you pull the wheel and the cassette falls out unexpectedly.
    In my case I'm not using a XD driver. I'm not sure if the same spacer exists with the standard freehub.. I haven't looked at the hub since I stopped using it.

  92. #492
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    Hammering the daylights out of this hub for just over 2 years. Not one peep then broken axle. Honestly not too bummed and will gladly order another on Monday, just a bit argh since I waited till Friday night to do my maintenance and find it. Gravel bike for the weekend I guess. Wom wom.

    12x142 bolt on with XD driver

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  93. #493
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    Same thing here x3. Clearly a fatigue problem. Recently blew up the hub (lots of cracked metal) so now went with the full steel hub which has a pair of bearings (3 total). Hope the flex of the axle is a little less thereby extending fatigue life of the axle sleeve and also getting rid of gouging to boot. If that blows, well maybe time for a whole new wheel.
    Front is dope though, little plain and dorky looking but does the job just fine. The best looking hubs ever came from Cane Creek, but for some reason they bailed on hubs about 5 years ago and stopped supplying anything wheel.

  94. #494
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    Has anyone here broken an axle w/ a steel freehub?
    Anyone know if BHS offers some more burly axle?

    Think CKing used to offer such items to save the day when some burly rider kept blowing things up.

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  95. #495
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    For me, after about a year in (not too bad), inner freehub bearing went bad 2x, then the axle broke, then a bearing again, then a shaft and finally the freehub spilt open where the bearing lives. So was it then the first bad bearing that caused the shaft to fail (not supported in that area) and then hub or vice versa? Steel freehub has two bearing so depending on root cause all of my problems they should go away -right. I banked on this theory and went with the doublewide bearing setupand crossing my fingers and so far so good (5 months in).The only real answer to the shaft breakage problem is a steel shaft (or Ti) because this issue is a fatigue problem and there is no more room for thicker aluminum.
    BUT, the fact that the tolerances are such that you cant just torque the nuts and load the bearings perfectly like a high end hub, it means that depending on how tight you torque the nuts, it significantly changes the game. My bearings could have been toasted by my setup all along, leading to the other problems. These are simple deep groove bearings but are being forced into working like a cup and cone set up, i.e., too tight, lots of drag and blown bearings or too loose and sloppy wheel/break rub. I've tried bearing shims but cant get it quite right and then kind of sniff a little when I think about how did I get here and how much time I'm spending on this. And as the price creeps up.....
    BTW im 205# and ride hard but no big drops or crazy air...too old and just glad to be riding. Now that I think about it, too loose torque may also be part of the shaft breakage problem because the shaft can bend more (i think?) with this loading. Net, keep your preload just right!
    Hope that helps.

  96. #496
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    How much has this axle been running you guys when talking to Brandon? Did I see somebody above got one replaced for free? I am going to try picking up 3 of them, 1 to replace mine, 1 for backup, and 1 for a buddy's backup! haha.

    And boost/non-boost both been snapping axles?

  97. #497
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    These seem worth about $100 a set. I want better durability to prefer them to SRAM 900 or DT 350.

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    These seem worth about $100 a set. I want better durability to prefer them to SRAM 900 or DT 350.
    They have been good for me. I have about 2,000 miles on them and have not encountered an issue.

    HOWEVER... I am going to build a set of wheels this winter through Carbonfan... and will be opting for DT 350's with the 54T upgrade.

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    These seem worth about $100 a set. I want better durability to prefer them to SRAM 900 or DT 350.
    Having held a SRAM900 and a BHS in my hands at the same time, I could be convinced they're the same hub.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Having held a SRAM900 and a BHS in my hands at the same time, I could be convinced they're the same hub.
    Interdasting. I have the 900. We should measure our axle wall thicknesses and compare.

  101. #501
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    Edit: my comment above was for the BHS MTB148 rear hub (MTB148 Boost Rear Disc Hub - 12 x 148mm). The MTB148 has now been replaced with the BHS BX211R Boost hub, which is definitely not the same as a SRAM900.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  102. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    Has anyone here broken an axle w/ a steel freehub?
    Anyone know if BHS offers some more burly axle?


    -JCBs
    I spoke with Brandon two days ago, Chromo axle option is coming
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  103. #503
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    Origin 8 = Bitex too?

    I purchased two wheelsets from Pricepoint when they went out of business. They were Origin8 hubs with DT rims. I needed different end caps and searched all over and finally found them at Niagra Cycle. They were to convert front QR to 15x100, and were unique. I just was browsing BHS and saw the adapters for the MTB180 look exactly the same. Looking at Origin 8's hub page they look like they are all the same Bitex hubs.

    Product Description | Origin8

    Not earth shattering news, and BHS is still cheaper and probably better service. I just feel better knowing the brand of the hubs on my wheels and where to buy parts. Perhaps someone else could use the info.

    Also, for those looking to buy Bitex straight pull, maybe Origin8 versions would do. Niagra Cycle seems to have some...

    https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...-straight-pull
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  104. #504
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    It's not too hard to find bitex hubs from not BHS.

    I bought $2000 worth of them direct and ALL the hubs were 100% defective. That's a bit unnerving to say the least.

    Brandon seems to spot check the hubs, and even if something goes wrong he's here in the US and has proven to back his products, quickly.

    It took a long time and many angry people to resolve my $2k direct order. It got solved, as bitex themselves are legit and honest, they're just across the world. Don't bother if you're just trying to buy a pair for yourself, just pay marginally more and buy from BHS.

  105. #505
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    Can anyone confirm the weights of the BHS Bitex BX 211 hubs? The front is listed as 140.78g, which is a little weird for Brandon to measure to the 100th of a gram. The rear is listed as 275g. Both weights are very light for Boost hubs.
    Thanks in advance.

  106. #506
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    I don't have a set of hubs here at the moment but I can say that they are very light. A few months ago, I built a set of boost wheels with the earlier hubs that had the curved body.
    The new ones are straight. I asked Brandon why the change and he replied the new ones are lighter.
    I like turtles

  107. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Pivot View Post
    It's not too hard to find bitex hubs from not BHS.

    I bought $2000 worth of them direct and ALL the hubs were 100% defective. That's a bit unnerving to say the least.
    What was wrong with them?

  108. #508
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    If anyone cares. ( I may be the only weight weenie when looking at boost hubs).Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_9777.jpg
    142g for a front boost hub is very attractive.

  109. #509
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    Huh- I just checked my shoddy spreadsheet.
    The non-boost 100x15mm was 180g.
    Wonder where that discrepancy comes from? My record keeping? My scale?
    Could the boost be that much lighter? And why?

    But yes- that is a great weight.
    I think a King hub is in the 160g range?

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  110. #510
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    Your spreadsheet is correct AFAIK. BHS lists it as 182 (hence mtb180) and they have a pic on their website showing all 3 front hub axle configurations on a scale. So I was very pleasantly surprised w/ the 142g weight. I am fairly sure my scale is accurate. American Classic is the only 'reasonably' priced boost hub lighter to my knowledge at 130g, but much more expensive than BHS, and could be pretty hard to find from what I hear.

  111. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy13 View Post
    Your spreadsheet is correct AFAIK. BHS lists it as 182 (hence mtb180) and they have a pic on their website showing all 3 front hub axle configurations on a scale. So I was very pleasantly surprised w/ the 142g weight. I am fairly sure my scale is accurate. American Classic is the only 'reasonably' priced boost hub lighter to my knowledge at 130g, but much more expensive than BHS, and could be pretty hard to find from what I hear.
    SRAM 900 is about the same weight...I just built with them; really, really nice light weight hubs with decent engagement that are dirt cheap.

  112. #512
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    So the boost hub might have the same bearings but itís certainly ly wider flange to flange.
    Why would it be lighter? Did they add chunks of newspaper or kitty litter to the aluminum?

    Sram hubs? That stings all my personal biases. Most of which have no rational foundation.
    Iíd just never consider a SRAM when Iím lacing. I wouldnít even remember that they make them.
    So maybe itís time I lace a pair just to pry open this crotchety old brain.
    Thanks.
    Esp since they are cheap.


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  113. #513
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    I've been looking hard at the sram 900 hubs, but the fact that they have only two pawls engaged at a time really bothers me. But I guess the design works well enough for hope. I just have a difficult time believing that two can be as strong as three.

  114. #514
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    Looking at a quick price comparison between the BHS hubs and the SRAM- I'd still lean to the BHS.
    Plus I've had no issues w/ the BHS hubs, though mine are less abused than the DT hubs on my bikes. So partially tried and true I suppose.
    The SRAM are probably absolute fine.
    But a higher cost and that slight unknown lean me to BHS.

    Anyone had lots of abuse on the SRAM? Good/Bad things to add?

    Edit-
    I wasn't looking at the Boost pricing on the BHS hubs. When I did, they are closer in cost to the SRAM.
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  115. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Chicken Bones View Post
    But a higher cost and that slight unknown lean me to BHS.
    For boost hubs, SRAM 900 can be found for under 200 bucks for the pair. BHS wants $250 for boost and xd.

    The price that BHS is charging for boost hubs starts to put them in line with a lot of other options. Namely hope and DT 350 from European sites, in addition to the aforementioned sram.

  116. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitsBoy View Post
    For boost hubs, SRAM 900 can be found for under 200 bucks for the pair. BHS wants $250 for boost and xd.

    The price that BHS is charging for boost hubs starts to put them in line with a lot of other options. Namely hope and DT 350 from European sites, in addition to the aforementioned sram.
    I intended to buy BHS when I started out. I have long used Hadley, but just couldnít justify the price any longer with more options that are lighter and now closer in engagement. That said, I couldnít find any reports of durability issue at all with the 900s. Maybe there are some, but I couldnít find them. I found lots with BHS, even though most people have good experiences, but as stated, SRAM can be found cheaper with Boost by a decent amount. So I tried them, and they just seem like well made hubs. Really well made for the price, and light weight for the engagement. Weíll see when I start hitting them hard and how they hold up.

  117. #517
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    Maybe I'm looking at the wrong hub.
    I only see the Bitex boost rear hub on the BHS site.
    And it's on sale.
    Post a link if you can.

    Otherwise- If your numbers are correct? Man- I would always take DT over both BHS or SRAM.
    The 350s aren't quite as versatile as the 240s but they are an absolute known event.
    They work, and they don't stop working.
    Easy to work on. Heck you can even pull the cassette off on a trip w/o tools. That would make installing a new spoke easier on the drive side.

    -JCBs
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  118. #518
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    Disregard. There's a big huge link above of it. Didn't find it on their site since it's in the sale bin.
    Still- it's $150.
    Not terrible.
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  119. #519
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    Anyone know how much lateral play you should have in front hub (MTB180)? With wheel out I can slide left & right a very noticeable few mm.

    is this normal for front wheel standard use?

  120. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfo423 View Post
    Anyone know how much lateral play you should have in front hub (MTB180)? With wheel out I can slide left & right a very noticeable few mm.

    is this normal for front wheel standard use?
    The endcaps? Yeah, the are only loosely held in place when the hub is not clamped by the axle. Pretty standard.

  121. #521
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    Hope this is not too off-topic. Does anyone know which (if any) 142 to boost conversion kits will work with the MTB270 rear hub? Built a rear wheel with one and want to move it to a new frame but a few of the frames I'm looking at are boost *sigh*

  122. #522
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    Email BHS about which end caps you need then locate a rotor spacer

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  123. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Email BHS about which end caps you need then locate a rotor spacer
    Well if it's anything like my experience, you can e-mail all you like and never receive a response from Brandon. Granted mine most recently is a warranty issue, but I had the same experience when trying to order.

    I have three sets of hubs now and still get no response from e-mails. Pretty disappointing.
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  124. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuvok View Post
    Hope this is not too off-topic. Does anyone know which (if any) 142 to boost conversion kits will work with the MTB270 rear hub? Built a rear wheel with one and want to move it to a new frame but a few of the frames I'm looking at are boost *sigh*
    Any of the versions that use an axle spacer instead of new endcaps should work.

  125. #525
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    I should elaborate, I was assured by Brandon that I would receive my warranty parts (damaged axles and freehubs) as soon as they became available (couple months). More than 2 months passed and I heard nothing so I sent a follow up e-mail. Still nothing. I just sent another e-mail, I'll be happy to update this thread if I get a response.
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  126. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    I should elaborate, I was assured by Brandon that I would receive my warranty parts as soon as they became available (couple weeks). More than 2 months passed and I heard nothing so I sent a follow up e-mail. Still nothing. I just sent another e-mail, I'll be happy to update this thread if I get a response.
    What is needed under warranty, Im curious as I have 3 hubs so far and was planning to use them when I build new wheels for my B+

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  127. #527
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    Lost washer

    Does anyone know what size the washer is that goes between the hub bearing and the freehub bearing? I lost it and spent 2 hours trying to find it to no avail. My best guess is 15 mm id x 21 mm od x .3 mm thick. I have found several suppliers on eBay in the UK selling all sorts of shim washers. None in the states. I am going to call Brandon tomorrow and, hopefully, he has what I need. Thanks!

    I am referring to the bearing removed in this video:
    https://youtu.be/blZzf12udNA?t=39

  128. #528
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    I called the shop yesterday and they informed me that, when you order a new freehub, it includes the washer that goes between the drive-side bearings.

  129. #529
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    Cool. I happen to have one of their hubs apart right now and was going to measure that washer for you but my wife's car needed attention last night and I forgot about it.
    I like turtles

  130. #530
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    For those of you who have used the SRAM 900 rear hub and the BHS/Bitex hubs, how do they compare in terms of noise? And are any of the Bitex hubs quieter than the others?

  131. #531
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    The fat hubs seem to be louder than the Boost and 135mm hubs. Must be the size of the body somehow amplifying the sound because the freehubs are the same on all the MTB hubs.
    I like turtles

  132. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by NYrr496 View Post
    The fat hubs seem to be louder than the Boost and 135mm hubs. Must be the size of the body somehow amplifying the sound because the freehubs are the same on all the MTB hubs.
    I noticed the very same effect on Hope hubs. Fat hubs are slightly louder.
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  133. #533
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    7 or 8 rides in...help what was the trick to separate these

    Been a while since I dealt w/ this scenario, are these one now or how do I get the cassette off the bhs freehub? I still want to use the cassette Attachment 1194517
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  134. #534
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    Uh oh. I guess the separate cogs dug into the aluminum driver? Just gotta wiggle em off. Takes patience.
    I've been opting for the Anti Bite freehubs.
    I like turtles

  135. #535
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    I'll try to wiggle em today, thanks. This bhs hub order was supposed to be the steel fhb, maybe it's not have to check that. Trials wheel pulls dbl duty so two bikes are down w/o it..last night tried prying w/ big screwdriver, then chainwhip and tapping each sprocket in reverse, 7spd no budgie!
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  136. #536
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    Holy cow. If it's steel and it did that...
    I like turtles

  137. #537
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    No way its a steel freehub body. I have 2 of them and at 275lbs, on my fat bike for 2 seasons so far there isnt a single mark

    Looks like you accidentally got an aluminum one( though last time I ordered steel versions still had to be ordered seperate)

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  138. #538
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    This nearly happened to me too. The 11t cog dug into the freehub pretty bad. I think this is what caused my cassette cog to break.

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_6208.jpg

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-img_6219.jpg
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  139. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    This nearly happened to me too. The 11t cog dug into the freehub pretty bad. I think this is what caused my cassette cog to break.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6208.jpg 
Views:	76 
Size:	102.2 KB 
ID:	1194619

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6219.jpg 
Views:	77 
Size:	61.8 KB 
ID:	1194620
    Shoot, is that the steel or aluminum fhb you have there..not sure how to tell them a part?

    Mine looks to be the same color/finish. Soaking it in hoppes no. 9, going to get ugly it's so stuck..doesn't come off in one more go I'm gonna have to run the other bike w/ 7spd spares
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  140. #540
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    That's an aluminum freehub. Pre anti-bite version. I have all steel now.

    You can also see where the axle is flexing and causing the FHB to hit the drive ring. That's what those marks are at the other end, by the pawls.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  141. #541
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    You're too strong dude.

  142. #542
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    Well, I'm not the first, and I'm sure I'm not the last to experience this with these hubs. I just wish they were either made stronger like most hubs, or there was an option for a steel replacement axle, which there isn't.

    Like many things in the bike industry, the engineering was too focused on being light weight at the expense of durability.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  143. #543
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    Is there a better place than bhs to get the steel fhb?
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  144. #544
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deerhill View Post
    Is there a better place than bhs to get the steel fhb?
    For these hubs? Nope.
    I like turtles

  145. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    That's an aluminum freehub. Pre anti-bite version. I have all steel now.

    You can also see where the axle is flexing and causing the FHB to hit the drive ring. That's what those marks are at the other end, by the pawls.
    Dang. Are you a 300 pounder like RAKC?

  146. #546
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    Can't believe it's not butter

    It's the butterstuff, buyer beware..it lasted probably 3-4 rides from the look of mine, should absolutely not be junked as it is this quickly...7spd is quite a bit thicker compared to 9-10spd...low cost/quality of the aluminum is not worth it w/ these, buyers over 100lbs are better off getting a used Hadley on ebay Edit* just checked ebay and this mk goes @ $250 FOR FRONT AND REAR HADLEY SET

    Even if you articulate before purchase- ABSOLUTELY CANNOT USE ALUMINUM FHB, that is what bhs will send you
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    Dang. Are you a 300 pounder like RAKC?
    Im a fair bit below 300 now lol.

    I havent looked recently to see if I have any marks, last time I had the hub apart I didnt. But then too Im on a steep freehub.

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  148. #548
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    Anyone know if the mtb 270 9spd / 10spd / 11spd steel freehub body is the same as steel Bitex RAR9 RAR13 or RAR16??

    Found this but not sure what the difference could be
    https://m.ebay.com/itm/6-Pawls-Hub-C....c100408.m2460
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  149. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    I just wish they were either made stronger like most hubs, or there was an option for a steel replacement axle, which there isn't.

    Like many things in the bike industry, the engineering was too focused on being light weight at the expense of durability.
    Yes they do sell chromoly steel axles. I will be stocking them soon, as well as steel freehubs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Deerhill View Post
    Anyone know if the mtb 270 9spd / 10spd / 11spd steel freehub body is the same as steel Bitex RAR9 RAR13 or RAR16??
    No, it's not. The ones for road hubs are about 1mm smaller at the pawls. And that auction doesn't say steel anywhere.

  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudSnow View Post
    Yes they do sell chromoly steel axles. I will be stocking them soon, as well as steel freehubs.
    Well, they didn't as of 2 or so months ago. You have a PN? Link?

    Even if it is available now, I'm still a little disappointed that I have to pay to upgrade the freehub and axle after buying the hub because it's under built. Really makes these hubs not the great deal they seem to be on the surface. By the time I rebuild the thing with all steel parts it's going to be just as expensive as a Hope or DT and weigh a metric ton.

    The flexing axle and resulting contact with the drive ring aren't the only problem I've experienced. The axle is gouged where the driver meets the hub shell and will eventually wear through and break.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  151. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Well, they didn't as of 2 or so months ago. You have a PN? Link?

    Even if it is available now, I'm still a little disappointed that I have to pay to upgrade the freehub and axle after buying the hub because it's under built. Really makes these hubs not the great deal they seem to be on the surface. By the time I rebuild the thing with all steel parts it's going to be just as expensive as a Hope or DT and weigh a metric ton.

    The flexing axle and resulting contact with the drive ring aren't the only problem I've experienced. The axle is gouged where the driver meets the hub shell and will eventually wear through and break.
    Well a DT350 you can get for close to that, Hope about the middle between the 2. For $25 more you can get Hope and not deal with the issues..... Granted my only experience so far is the 170mm fat hub, which I need to check condition of the freehub and axle now and I had to pay for the steel freehub body. For fat it was a good deal as long as it's not jacked up now. Steel freehub body may be enough to not have the flex issues but we'll see

    But glad I went with a DT350 to replace OEM hub on my trail bike. Though the 350 star ratchet engage is like riding shimano hubs. $70 for the 36t replacement..... Not sure why DT doesn't just start at 36.

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  152. #552
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudSnow View Post
    Yes they do sell chromoly steel axles. I will be stocking them soon, as well as steel freehubs.



    No, it's not. The ones for road hubs are about 1mm smaller at the pawls. And that auction doesn't say steel anywhere.
    Thanks for the heads up..far as I'm concerned, the steel axle/fhb should be what this "mtb" design starts with. Nothing seems to be available today for this MTB hub that is trail worthy except a laughable titanium fhb..bugged how this thing ended after 7 rides
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  153. #553
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    Soft Al

    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Well, they didn't as of 2 or so months ago. You have a PN? Link?

    Even if it is available now, I'm still a little disappointed that I have to pay to upgrade the freehub and axle after buying the hub because it's under built. Really makes these hubs not the great deal they seem to be on the surface. By the time I rebuild the thing with all steel parts it's going to be just as expensive as a Hope or DT and weigh a metric ton.

    The flexing axle and resulting contact with the drive ring aren't the only problem I've experienced. The axle is gouged where the driver meets the hub shell and will eventually wear through and break.
    Not going to post any more photo's, but this^^ is also another little present I found inside..can't find the correct steel fhb the recommendation for "mtb"270 gets upgraded to AVOID
    video=youtube;][/video]...

  154. #554
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    I have an order of steel parts coming and will be adding them to my own site in about 4 weeks.

    $22 for axles and $48 for the freehubs.

    I will ask about getting some hubs with the steel parts installed already.

  155. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    This nearly happened to me too. The 11t cog dug into the freehub pretty bad. I think this is what caused my cassette cog to break.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So I checked my rear hub now that I swapped my 29+ wheels back on again. Now keep in mind my hub is 170 fat hub

    My freehub isn't gouged like yours inside the pawl/ratchet area but there ARE marks where the freehub body has hit the teeth of the ring inside. My freehub is also steel, I ate the aluminum one in 2 weeks lol. But after 2 years hub is still flawless beyond that.

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  156. #556
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    there ARE marks where the freehub body has hit the teeth of the ring inside.
    That is caused by the axle tube flexing. Thanks to feedback I am going to be keeping chromoly axles in stock.

  157. #557
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    Ya I figured that, I had mentioned earlier I would check my fat bike hub to see if it was flexing as badly.

    Some flex is going to happen, no way around it. But enough to damage the freehub body is cause for concern.

    I did notice that my salsa hub (which is formula) the axle appears reinforced at the joint between the freehub and hub body. Very similar design, at quick glance or to untrained eye it would be hard to tell a difference internally.

    I'll likely order a chromo axle sometime soonish as I'm a BIG guy. Shocked the issue hasn't caused any problems for me. If I was lighter I wouldn't even worry about it but at 270lbs, don't need the axle giving out when I'm a few miles from anything out riding in the cold of winter.

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  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudSnow View Post
    That is caused by the axle tube flexing. Thanks to feedback I am going to be keeping chromoly axles in stock.
    Props to MudSnow as a Bitex supplier (on eBay). Fast shipment and good communication!
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  159. #559
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    Just hit 'order' on a Bitex steel freehub from BHS. (They showed out of stock yesterday, but today it let me place the order.)

    Replacing the 6902 bearings on an BX211R hub shell... so it was an excuse to buy a slide hammer, blind, inner bearing puller. I like excuses to buy new tools
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  160. #560
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    I know that the freehub uses 1x6802 and 1x6902 does anyone know the bearing size for the 2 in the shell. Has anyone noticed that the freehub bearings seems to have alot of drag. Should the bearing spacer spin the other bearing. Hubs have been awesome. Just time for a overhaul.

  161. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by caRpetbomBer View Post
    I know that the freehub uses 1x6802 and 1x6902 does anyone know the bearing size for the 2 in the shell. Has anyone noticed that the freehub bearings seems to have alot of drag. Should the bearing spacer spin the other bearing. Hubs have been awesome. Just time for a overhaul.
    You will want a pair of 6902 bearings for the shell.

  162. #562
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    I replaced the bearings in the hub shell and bought a new free hub this spring that included the "anti-bite". I pulled off my cassette, which was also brand new in the beginning of the spring, after about 500 miles this season on the new freehub and bearings... and found the free hub was gouged again. Mostly where the 11t and 13t are.

    It was not this bad the first set I had... at least it lasted longer. Looks like I need a steel freehub!

  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudSnow View Post
    That is caused by the axle tube flexing. Thanks to feedback I am going to be keeping chromoly axles in stock.
    I now have a few of the Bitex chromoly steel axles 142mm, boost 148mm, Shimano freehubs, and the boost hubs with steel axles already installed, in stock, ready to ship. I can get more if a lot of people want them. I plan on stocking the boost hubs with the chromoly axles from now on.

  164. #564
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    I meant to buy a Rohloff this year but instead used a MTB270 this summer on my fat touring bike, 135mm with 27.5x3.8 tires, 30 x 11-46 rear cassette with some gears missing to clear the tires. Took it to Central Asia and put 600 miles on it up some 13,000 foot passes and too many stream crossings to count.

    When I got home I took the rear hub apart. The small bearing in the freehub was crunchy and the steel inserts have been a little mangled. With the bearing replaced the freehub would still be useable, but I got a steel freehub from Mudsnow and all seems nice, tight and smooth spinning again.

    I was going to use a Dt Swiss 350 for a 29+ wheel build, but the MTB270 did great other than all the stream crossings, plus the engagement's higher and the overall cost with a steel freehub is still cheaper. Great hub.

  165. #565
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    Hello everyone, how are the mtb270 hub holding up? Looking to get one for my enduro bike Iíve mainly now been using for cross country and now and then some big jumps. Iíve been noticing my hub engagement could be way better and would help for trials stuff and techy climbs. Intrigued by the P.O.E and price, but not sure if they would hold up.

  166. #566
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    Loctite the end caps and they hold up great
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  167. #567
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    Two of my friends have now broken their MTB270 axle.

  168. #568
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    I also had a broken alloy axle; if you buy one I'd just buy the steel axle to go along with it and run the alloy one until it cracks.

    https://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/mtr-axle.htm

  169. #569
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    Quote Originally Posted by spsoon View Post
    Two of my friends have now broken their MTB270 axle.
    For the life of me, I cannot figure out how people are doing that.

    My theory is that they don't properly pre-load the end caps and radial play/flex develops between the freehub body/the axle/the hub body.

    I'm guessing that radial play causes the steel bushing/spacer (that rides on the axle, between the hub body bearing and the freehub body) causes a 'scoring' on the alloy axle body.

    I've had plenty of MTB270's (and BX211R's) and have never had an issue. But I always take the end cap off (when new), clean all of the threads (on the axle and the ID of the end cap) and add loc-tite to the threads.
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  170. #570
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    Okay, just solved the issue. Just placed the order on CRC for a complete wheel, Easton arc 27 laced to DT SWISS 350ís for a pretty sweet deal. Had a $20 coupon and ended up being $120. Even though the engagement isnít the best, once I have enough money I can get the 54 tooth upgrade. I wish the upgrade wasnít so expensive but having the feature to upgrade is pretty cool. It comes with an Xd driver so I will have to buy a new cassette, but fortunate I needed to replace my cassette anyways.
    Heres the link-https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod187732

  171. #571
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    That's the way to do it. Fantastic deal!

  172. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by spsoon View Post
    Two of my friends have now broken their MTB270 axle.
    Yup, I broke 5-6 in the year or year and a half I had these hubs.

    Quote Originally Posted by biggrumble View Post
    I also had a broken alloy axle; if you buy one I'd just buy the steel axle to go along with it and run the alloy one until it cracks.
    The steel axle is not an option for all hubs, like Boost for instance. I broke 2 boost axles in 2 months and killed a freehub. Even if I could add a steel freehub, and a steel axle, now I'm left with a pretty heavy, not cheap hub I had to buy a bunch of spare parts for. No thanks.

    Just buy something better right out of the box and be much happier in the long run with no hassles, no down time waiting on replacement parts, no added expense, no reliability issues, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    For the life of me, I cannot figure out how people are doing that.
    Easy, they're just not up to the task of heavier/stronger riders. Freehub bearings blow out, axles break, severely gouged freehubs in weeks.

    Not to mention pretty lousy customer service from Brandon. Guys always got an attitude and gives snarky responses to basic e-mail questions.

    I got out despite having 4 wheelsets. No regrets. YMMV
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  173. #573
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    Simply as an FYI: I have a steel axle for my Boost 148 Bitex rear hub
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  174. #574
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    Huh, wasn't available at the time. Seems all the hubs have the same broken axle issue, hence why the steel axle is necessary for all of them. A properly designed hub doesn't need a bandaid for a poor design.

    It seems some people are having good luck with them I guess. I just wouldn't recommend them if your heavier or ride a lot. They don't hold up.
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  175. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    Yup, I broke 5-6 in the year or year and a half I had these hubs.

    The steel axle is not an option for all hubs, like Boost for instance. I broke 2 boost axles in 2 months and killed a freehub.
    The chromoly steel axle is available for the 142mm and 148mm through axles. It can be added as an upgrade or I have been ordering many boost hubs with steel axles already installed for just $10 extra. The steel axle does add about 50g to the weight, which is just 11% of a pound, but it is MUCH stronger and more durable. I can also install steel freehubs for $15 extra on your purchase of a complete rear hub.

  176. #576
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    There is no way to "properly design" aluminum to make it as strong as steel. Aluminum comes standard because it is strong enough for most riders for most trails and many riders are concerned with light weight. Heavy riders and more extreme trails will logically require stronger equipment, which of course will weigh more.

  177. #577
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by 06HokieMTB View Post
    Converted a 142 MTB270 to Boost148 tonight.

    The idea came after looking at my buddies hubs (DT350 and Industry9) after they installed the Boostinator kits.

    Anyway, I bought a 148x12 thru axle from Brandon.

    Then I took an old aluminum end cap I had and cannibalized it, plus a thick 15mm ID washer that I had in my tool box.

    To do it from scratch, you'd need a 6mm thick spacer, that is 28mm OD/15mm ID.

    Install the 148 axle from the cassette side, slide on the 6mm (28/15 OD/ID) spacer against the Disc side outer bearing and then install the normal end cap. Do this on the Disc side. (The Boostinator kits only space the Disc side, the cassette side is essentially in the same place in the drive side of the frame.)

    Then install an eBay 6mm rotor spacer (again, Disc side... but I guess that's given).

    Wa-La.
    I assume the wa-la came after you redished the wheel 3mm to account for the spacers ;-). I didnít see it mentioned but it might be a good idea to order the *steel* 148 axle just to be on the safe side.

    I was thinking to just order order a Bitex BX211R Boost hub from BHS and just swap the MTB270 out with it to avoid monkeying around with a loose axle spacer, but now you have me reconsidering that. Thx.

  178. #578
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    Yes, given the option, Iíd buy a steel axle
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  179. #579
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    Which Bitex hub is this?

    Hi guys,

    I apparently have a set of wheels with carbon (Light Bicycle) rims and Bitex hubs. The guy who sold me the set said the hubs were from Novatec, so ordered a novatec freehub body but it was clearly not a match. Did some Google image research and saw that the Bitex hubs were (almost) a perfect match to my hubs. The front one is MTF15 (ordered a set of QR conversion end caps which fitted perfectly), not sure about the rear one. The outward appearance looks exactly like MTR12 / MTB270 hub but the inner contents are what put me in bewilderment. I've checked bikehubstore and bitex websites but none of the road hubs match with mine, the MTR12 / MTB270 seems like it would be the right one. On the road category the BX106R would otherwise match but it's for centerlock whereas my hub has 6-bolt pattern.

    Ordered a heavy-duty steel freehub body from BHS but it was too big to fit into my hub. The freewheel side has 24 notches (which is apparently what the Bitex road hubs have, whereas MTB versions have 27 notches?, apparently they also differ some 1mm in pawl length, according to an Israeli ebay seller who's selling Bitex freehub bodies, I know it's an interesting source of information lol). The rear hub was 142x12mm, ordered an MTR12 QRx135mm conversion axle which fitted perfectly. Is my hub some kind of a weird Chinese match of different hub components?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-dsc_0567-min.jpg  

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-dsc_0711-min.jpg  

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-dsc_0569-min.jpg  

    Initial Thoughts BikeHubStore MTB270 &amp; MTB180 hubs-dsc_0570-min.jpg  


  180. #580
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    Why ask the internet when you can go right to the source? Write them an e-mail, or call them, or both. https://www.bikehubstore.com/default.asp

    Quote Originally Posted by elastico View Post
    Hi guys,

    I apparently have a set of wheels with carbon (Light Bicycle) rims and Bitex hubs. The guy who sold me the set said the hubs were from Novatec, so ordered a novatec freehub body but it was clearly not a match. Did some Google image research and saw that the Bitex hubs were (almost) a perfect match to my hubs. The front one is MTF15 (ordered a set of QR conversion end caps which fitted perfectly), not sure about the rear one. The outward appearance looks exactly like MTR12 / MTB270 hub but the inner contents are what put me in bewilderment. I've checked bikehubstore and bitex websites but none of the road hubs match with mine, the MTR12 / MTB270 seems like it would be the right one. On the road category the BX106R would otherwise match but it's for centerlock whereas my hub has 6-bolt pattern.

    Ordered a heavy-duty steel freehub body from BHS but it was too big to fit into my hub. The freewheel side has 24 notches (which is apparently what the Bitex road hubs have, whereas MTB versions have 27 notches?, apparently they also differ some 1mm in pawl length, according to an Israeli ebay seller who's selling Bitex freehub bodies, I know it's an interesting source of information lol). The rear hub was 142x12mm, ordered an MTR12 QRx135mm conversion axle which fitted perfectly. Is my hub some kind of a weird Chinese match of different hub components?
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  181. #581
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    Thanks for your assistance. I forgot to mention I've already emailed to both Bitex and BHS, no response. Calling BHS is not an option as I live in Europe.

    Meanwhile, I received a reply from the kind Israeli seller on eBay, he said historically Bitex was using 24-notch interface on their MTB freehubs but they were having problems with failures (too much torque) so they changed to 27 notches. Apparently I have one of their older MTB rear hubs, this is also supported by the fact that the rims have an ID of 20mm and OD of 25mm (narrow), more common in the past days. That's why I converted the hubs to QR, put them on my road bike instead for a relatively light and wide, aerodynamic tubeless setup with 25mm road tires. He also recommended me a couple of options for the replacement freehub, advised me to order a "road" model instead as it would fit the 24-notch freehub system.

  182. #582
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    That was nice of him. I wouldn't expect a reply from bhs. They've never answered any questions I've sent about their lower end hubs.

  183. #583
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    I agree, very impressive customer service. It's ROI Cycles who helped me with the issue and shared the information. I just noticed some play in the rear hub, so the axle swap may not have been perfect. The bearings are smooth and I tightened the end caps after putting some loctite (well not actual loctite but similar with medium "strength") on the threads to prevent the axle from loosening. I'll try to figure it out. The play in the hub only appears when I mount the wheel and tighten the QR, but when I have the wheel on my hands off the bike and "rocking" the axle/end caps laterally I can't feel any play in the hub.

    EDIT. I couldn't get rid of the very small amount of play (well, there's not much to do as the bearings are not adjustable). Then I read about it and found this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1137555-hub-cartridge-bearings-play.html . There it's clearly stated that a small amount of play in radial cartridge bearings is acceptable and even critical for them to function properly as that will allow the bearings to run in the center of their races, and if there was the option to adjust them, then overtightening would push them to run on the edges of the bearing races and lead to premature wear. I guess I'll just leave it like that then and stop worrying. Maybe the bearings only need replacing if/once the play gets excessive (or the bearings feel rough). I will order the new freehub, though, from the eBay seller who has helped me a ton.

  184. #584
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schulze View Post
    That was nice of him. I wouldn't expect a reply from bhs. They've never answered any questions I've sent about their lower end hubs.
    I emailed them with a question on an xd driver for a fat hub at 4:26 oct 2 and got a reply at 10:41 october 3. So I guess different experiences for different people.

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