How to disassemble this hub?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    How to disassemble this hub?

    So I have a Salsa Timberjack SLX 27.5+ 2019. The rear hub is making an annoying hum, and I wanted to put some lube and see if it solves. Weird enough I couldn't disassemble past the caps and axle. Looks like there's a tool needed, that I've never seen before:


    Tried to identify which hub is that, looked into the TJ topic, and seems that my hub is not the same as that one. Also the Salsa web page does not contain any information about that hub.

    To make things weirder, the spline on the picture above is wider than the inner diameter of the bearings, meaning that I probably need to remove one of the bearings to insert the tool (assuming that that's the right way to disassemble this hub).

    Has anybody ever seen this?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmendes View Post
    I probably need to remove one of the bearings to insert the tool (assuming that that's the right way to disassemble this hub).
    That is not a tool point. Pics would of what you ae trying to remove.

    are those white ind xmr hubs?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outhouse View Post
    That is not a tool point, your going to have to remove/unscrew both axle caps. Cannot tell based on picture.
    Thanks. I did that. What you see (orange, out of focus) is the bearing that is behind the axle cap. In this picture, the axle and caps were removed. Still the freehub won't come out.

  4. #4
    EAT MORE GRIME
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    just guessing here
    a picture from the freehub side
    will be more informative about your freehub side of the hub
    than a picture from the brake side

    I know it's a stretch....and almost sounds like a fairy tale, but humor us

    in my experience with modern hubs you just have to yank hard to get things
    to pop off....might be an o-ring holding it in
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmendes View Post
    Still the freehub won't come out.
    firm pull usually pulls the free

  6. #6
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    sometimes helps to install the cassette so you have something you can grab/pull. especially if that freehub body has been installed for a long time.

  7. #7
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    I'll try again. I'm a strong person, and pulled already. Didn't move a hair, but will take pictures and try again.

  8. #8
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    So I tried again. Used considerable force, just enough to prevent bending the big cog on the cassette. Didn't move a hair.

    I noticed that the axle is supported by two bearings only. Based on that observation I deduct that there must be another bearing between the body of the hub and the freehub. The freehub spins on the hub when the axle is not in place, confirming the presence of the bearing. Still not the most common construction. Hope will last at least one year.






    More info:
    - Although being a budget bike, the internals of this hub are mostly steel (axle and freehub).
    - 15 POE, and is a very silent hub, except for the humming.
    - The bike is 2 months old, so I may just throw the towel and let the LBS take care of it.
    - Of course I also tried to pull after removing the axle and caps, and didn't move.
    - When I spin the freehub, the internal spline does not move.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How to disassemble this hub?-img_20190916_182514.jpg  

    How to disassemble this hub?-img_20190916_182233.jpg  

    How to disassemble this hub?-img_20190916_182546.jpg  


  9. #9
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    Shine a light inside the free hub and see if there are any flat sides down there, some hubs use a giant hex wrench (14mm?) to unscrew the freehub from the non- drive side.

    There isn't much to grease or oil though, you can pull the seals on cartridge bearings but mostly when they're bad you just replace them.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  10. #10
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    although i dont have an answer i would like to add that im in the same boat with one of the wheels i have.

    OP, it looks like the inside of the freehub uses some sort of spline tool like a cassette removal tool...right? most ( that i have ) have a 6mm hex. loosen and it comes right off.

    i just figured i didnt have the right tool and havent got back to that wheel yet.
    im surprised to see this up here with out an immediate answer. i figured it was a simple tool answer...maybe still is?

  11. #11
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    I didn't see the first pic until now, needs a big a$$ hex wrench.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    I didn't see the first pic until now, needs a big a$$ hex wrench.
    its not though. it has many spines

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Special Eye View Post
    although i dont have an answer i would like to add that im in the same boat with one of the wheels i have.

    OP, it looks like the inside of the freehub uses some sort of spline tool like a cassette removal tool...right? most ( that i have ) have a 6mm hex. loosen and it comes right off.

    i just figured i didnt have the right tool and havent got back to that wheel yet.
    im surprised to see this up here with out an immediate answer. i figured it was a simple tool answer...maybe still is?
    Yes, there is a spline, but is much bigger than 6mm. Considering that the thru-axle is 12mm, the spline has to be at least the same size, or bigger. But then, to reach that spline, I have to remove the bearing, as the ID of the bearing is also 12mm...


    Shine a light inside the free hub and see if there are any flat sides down there, some hubs use a giant hex wrench (14mm?) to unscrew the freehub from the non- drive side.
    That may be. Having 12 splines, is very plausible that a 14mm allen key would work. Still I'm puzzled by a design that requires to remove one of the bearings just to access the freehub. I wonder if I want to potentially destroy one bearing just to get rid of this humming.

    Still, thanks for all the answers. Looks like reaching that spline is the way to go.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Special Eye View Post
    its not though. it has many spines

    I think it has 12 sides so the axle will clear but a 6 side hex will still fit.


    Quote Originally Posted by fmendes View Post

    That may be. Having 12 splines, is very plausible that a 14mm allen key would work. Still I'm puzzled by a design that requires to remove one of the bearings just to access the freehub. I wonder if I want to potentially destroy one bearing just to get rid of this humming.

    You only have to remove the non-drive side bearing, it won't destroy it.

    Again though, if the bearings are bad they'll need to be replaced anyway and if they're not you may be trying to solve the wrong problem.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    I think it has 12 sides so the axle will clear but a 6 side hex will still fit.





    You only have to remove the non-drive side bearing, it won't destroy it.

    Again though, if the bearings are bad they'll need to be replaced anyway and if they're not you may be trying to solve the wrong problem.
    Looks like a Formula hub. The hex nut is 11/12mm depending on the hub design. Usually, removing the freehub doesn't require removing bearings.

    I'm willing to bet, that unless the OP has worked on these hubs before, or is at a bike shop, they probably don't have hex keys in that size range.

  16. #16
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    Thanks for the help! Now it's just a matter of eyeballing the right tool. Will take the tool to the hardware shop and figure out.

  17. #17
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    The inside first picture kinda looks like the inside of the Shimano freehub I'm trying to get off, which is supposed to take a 14 mm hex wrench. Please let me know what works for yours.

    How to disassemble this hub?-screen-shot-2019-09-17-1.37.44-pm.jpg

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tribble Me View Post
    The inside first picture kinda looks like the inside of the Shimano freehub I'm trying to get off, which is supposed to take a 14 mm hex wrench. Please let me know what works for yours.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not exactly that, but the picture looks promising. I'll pass by a hardware store as soon as is safe to drive around (I'm around Houston, and Imelda is coming tonight). The design of the Shimano hub seems better than the hub I have, that only allows inserting the tool from the non-drive side.

    But I looked into the Park Tool site, and looks like the 14mm allen wrench is the one used for Shimano freehubs:
    https://www.parktool.com/product/14mm-hex-wrench-hr-14

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmendes View Post
    But I looked into the Park Tool site, and looks like the 14mm allen wrench is the one used for Shimano freehubs:
    https://www.parktool.com/product/14mm-hex-wrench-hr-14
    Yes, but I have a 14 mm allen that won't quite fit but I've ordered an HR-14 to see if that'll work.

    Hope Imelda passes safelyand quickly by you and everyone else in its path.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tribble Me View Post
    Yes, but I have a 14 mm allen that won't quite fit but I've ordered an HR-14 to see if that'll work.

    But an HR-14 is a 14mm allen
    I brake for stinkbugs

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    But an HR-14 is a 14mm allen
    I hoping that the problem is that the 14 mm allen I have is just too big. It measures slightly more than 14 mm. I'm not sure how tight the tolerances are on the hub.

  22. #22
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    some shimano hubs take a 15 mm hex, double check before you strip the bolt

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    some shimano hubs take a 15 mm hex, double check before you strip the bolt

    But the 14mm he has is too big. Seems extremely unlikely that a hex wrench would be that far out of spec but I suppose it's possible.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  24. #24
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    It's made for a large hex, Kona uses the same interface for their suspension pivot bolts. 12 pt will fit a 6 pt hex even if it looks odd

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tribble Me View Post
    I hoping that the problem is that the 14 mm allen I have is just too big. It measures slightly more than 14 mm. I'm not sure how tight the tolerances are on the hub.
    At least that would be easy to solve, with a Dremel. Still puzzles me that nobody had (so far) a positive answer about how to open these hubs. I though it would be a silly question, but seems it is not. I'll try the 14mm wrench tonight, and grind if needed. At least I know I don't need to grind a 15mm...

  26. #26
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    Perhaps it's a 12 or 13? Might be easier to take it to a shop and have them try different sizes and then you'll know what to use rather than destroying a hex.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by fmendes View Post
    Still puzzles me that nobody had (so far) a positive answer about how to open these hubs.

    Nobody? Hex wrench, the right size. Grinding one to fit doesn't seem like a good idea to me.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  28. #28
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    I have run into hubs that took a 13mm. I have an oddball 13mm L allen wrench to use just for that purpose.
    Do the math.

  29. #29
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    I bought a 14mm wrench, but didn't even test it. I was starting to feel a little ridiculous risking to damage one of the bearings just to (maybe) fix the humming.

    So the problem is temporarily solved by putting a generous amount of teflon oil (the same I use on my Hadley hub) inside the hub. Improved a lot. When the hub breaks, I come back to the subject, if I don't decide for a better hub.

  30. #30
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    So, from this other thread, I got some light. This is the hub (WTB Serra):
    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...0326v3.pdf?651

    And from the manual (surprisingly decent), it reads:
    The freehub is removed from the hub using a 14mm hex key once both the bearing nut and end cap are removed from the drive side. Insert the 14mm hex key into the non-drive side of the hub and slide it through until it engages with the freehub body carrier (8) on the drive side. Looking at the non-drive side of the shell, rotate the 14mm hex key clockwise to remove it from the hub shell.
    Mystery solved 100%! Thanks to all.

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