First lot of upgrades compatibility advice - Wheels/Cassette etc- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    First lot of upgrades compatibility advice - Wheels/Cassette etc

    Hi - Apologies if this is in the wrong section of the forum it's my first post

    I have a stock Orange Clockwork 2017 (https://www.orangebikes.co.uk/bike-a...kwork-120/2017) that I'm looking to convert to a 1x11, have a few parts in mind I guess I'm just looking for validation that I haven't missed anything out/ that the parts actually fit together

    Rear Axle is 135mm QR so was going to go for Hope Tech Enduro - Pro 4 Shimano 142x12mm 27.5 - I can't find the 135mm QR version in the colour I'm after but they come with 135mm QR conversions I've read https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...RoCumAQAvD_BwE with 135mm QR Skewer https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...r/rp-prod31896

    Cassette Sunrace MX8 11-42 https://www.highonbikes.com/sunrace-...xoCKaoQAvD_BwE

    Chain 11 Speed KMC X11-EL https://www.tweekscycles.com/uk/kmc-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Front Chain Ring Hope Tech Narrow Wide 36T https://www.tweekscycles.com/uk/hope...E&gclsrc=aw.ds - with these Outer Ring bolts https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...y/rp-prod19227

    I think I will need a new Rear Mech too (current is Shimano Deore Shadow+) as I believe it's only 10 speed, maybe something like this Shimano XT M8000 https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod135893

    Are all of the above compatible? Apologies for all the links, I'm slowly learning about each part and appreciate any help!

  2. #2
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    Lemme see...

    Axle and hub

    If you currently have a 135mm rear hub/frame (they go together) you can change the rear axle from a quick release type to a bolt in/thru axle type but that will be 10mm diameter by 135mm width.

    If you decide to go with new hubs for a rear wheel build that wheel (doesn't matter if the rim is 26 inch or 27.5/650b) will be 10x135mm if the frame is 10x135mm.

    If you had a 12x142mm frame you would need a rear hub that is 12x142mm.

  3. #3
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    Breaking up the wall of text that this turned into on my part...

    Cassette and chain

    Cassette is matched to hub so if you had a Shimano style freehub (what the cassette sits on) you need a Shimano style cassette.

    If you wanted to go with a SRAM XD driver cassette you would need an XD compatible hub to match.

    I looked up the Sunrace MX8 specs and it looks like Shimano style so your choices there would be you either have a Shimano style freehub/point where the cassette connects or a new hub you purchase would need to have this as well.

    Chain is correct - 11 speed drive train means 11 speed chain.

  4. #4
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    Chain ring and crank
    Front chain ring won't matter so much other than size (30T, 36T, etc) and if you want narrow wide (I think pretty much everything comes that way these days) and of course how said chain ring connects to your crank (direct mount, bolt circle diameter of 104mm, etc).

    The Hope ring you linked to would need to match up with your crank as far as the bolt pattern and the spider.

    Example, the stock crank is Shimano Deore 36-22 so normally you would remove the 36T ring and put the new single ring where the 22T is currently hanging out.

    Depending on the spider you may need some spacers to work out the chain line.

    This one can be a little bit tricky although getting the model number and some Google for 'part XYZ 1x' will help you work out what you need.

  5. #5
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    Shifter

    If you go 11 speed you need an 11 speed shifter. If you already have an 11 speed shifter you should be set.

  6. #6
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    Rear derailleur

    Rear derailleur needs to match the speeds (so an 11 speed) and you have to work out the cage size as you have to accommodate the largest sprocket on the cassette.

    See https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-s...ur-284688.html for more on that.

    The TL;DR on rear derailleurs is that the derailleur has to have capacity for your cogs, has to match the speeds you want to use (10 vs 11), and you may want a clutch rear derailleur which helps to reduce chain slap and losing a chain off a single ring.

    Most rear derailleurs these days are clutch rear derailleurs I think.

  7. #7
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    I think that covers it.

    There is quite a bit to it but if you chop it up as chunks and keep the rules straight (like Gremlins, don't break the rules if you want happiness, break the rules and there is hell to pay) something like this isn't too bad really.

  8. #8
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    You didn't list a shifter, do be sure to get an 11 speed shifter.

    With the chainring and cassette you listed you will loose 3 climbing gears, the 46x42 is in between a 22x28 and a 22x24.

    Sent from my LEX727 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentG View Post
    I think that covers it.

    There is quite a bit to it but if you chop it up as chunks and keep the rules straight (like Gremlins, don't break the rules if you want happiness, break the rules and there is hell to pay) something like this isn't too bad really.
    thanks a lot for the detailed replies man really appreciate it, I think I understand everything now

    I don't think I'll need any spacers as after reading the crankset manual and watching a similar video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksVn1KvPX34 I should be good

    Quote Originally Posted by theboomboomcars View Post
    You didn't list a shifter, do be sure to get an 11 speed shifter.

    With the chainring and cassette you listed you will loose 3 climbing gears, the 46x42 is in between a 22x28 and a 22x24.

    Sent from my LEX727 using Tapatalk
    thanks for the reply I'm not quite sure I follow though, although I have 22 & 36 chain rings on the front I only use the 36 one and that's why I'm converting to 1x11. The 11-36T cassette I have i'll be upgrading to 11-42 and the cassette sequence is the same apart from having an extra gear to help climb, or so I thought?

  10. #10
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    While you've got some replies in terms of parts, I'm sitting here asking myself - WHY? What's wrong with your current 10spd drivetrain that it needs completely replacing? I just don't see the big fuss of moving from 10 to 11spd, you could easily convert your 10spd setup to a 1x10 if 1x is what you're after.

    I only switched to 10spd in 2016 and I'll be sticking with it for as long as I can get parts, running humongous, heavy, expensive cassettes trying to gain the range of a 2 setup has makes no sense to me.
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  11. #11
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    I agree with Lynx...unless there's a good reason to spend all the effort and $ to get to 1X11, stick with 10 spd. You can always choose a different chain ring to get the 10spd cassette to match your desired ratios for the terrain you ride. I've used Sheldon Brown gear calculator to help me compare gear ratios to what I have to where I'm trying to get to.
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  12. #12
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    10 and 11s derailleurs are the same pull, but you need one approved for a wide range cassette.

    Sunrace cassettes suck, and shimanos are dirt cheap. Stick with Shimano.

    You can get a Deore 10 speed 11-42 cassette. Its a fantastic option and you can reuse all your parts. There is a very good reason that 30t rings are so popular, I wouldn't go with 36 if you do any big climbs.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    While you've got some replies in terms of parts, I'm sitting here asking myself - WHY? What's wrong with your current 10spd drivetrain that it needs completely replacing? I just don't see the big fuss of moving from 10 to 11spd, you could easily convert your 10spd setup to a 1x10 if 1x is what you're after.

    I only switched to 10spd in 2016 and I'll be sticking with it for as long as I can get parts, running humongous, heavy, expensive cassettes trying to gain the range of a 2 setup has makes no sense to me.
    We realized we can use less parts and get the same or better result, while shaving off about a pound.

    If 1x came first, no one in their right mind would be swapping to 2x. More parts, weight, and cost for a similar range and clunky front shifting? No thanks!

  14. #14
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    I agree about the 36t chainring. That's fairly unusual. 32t is very common or 30t. Figure out what you'll use carefully and get a cassette and ring that fits your riding.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the replies about 10/11 speed, I guess I thought since I liked my gear ratio at the minute I'd just like an extra gear on the back if I ever do some bigger uphill stuff

    I use my bike a lot for commuting/flat surface and so the 36t on the front is nice for speed, I'll take a closer look at 1x10 cassettes One Pivot the one you recommended actually looks like what I'm after https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod162566

    Edit - Having a bit of a problem figuring out if my Rear Mech supports a 42 gear, it's a Shimano Deore Shadow +,will update this edit if I find out

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrdaz1992 View Post
    thanks a lot for the detailed replies man really appreciate it, I think I understand everything now

    I don't think I'll need any spacers as after reading the crankset manual and watching a similar video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksVn1KvPX34 I should be good



    thanks for the reply I'm not quite sure I follow though, although I have 22 & 36 chain rings on the front I only use the 36 one and that's why I'm converting to 1x11. The 11-36T cassette I have i'll be upgrading to 11-42 and the cassette sequence is the same apart from having an extra gear to help climb, or so I thought?
    I was just making sure you thought through your gearing choices, since you've gone for an unusual chainring selection. It's seems you have.

    I have a bike with a 10 speed deore and an 11-42 cassette. The cassette came with a longer b screw, but I'm not sure I had to use it, though I did.

    Sent from my LEX727 using Tapatalk

  17. #17
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    Here is a good gear calculator to compare your existing and proposed drivetrain.

    I recommend the 11-speed and a 11-46 or so cassette. Alternatively a 10-42 if you have an xD driver, but adding that would be pricey. More range = better. I have 11-46 on my fatbike and use the full range. It came with 11-42 and more range just makes things easier on occasion.

    If you go with the 11-speed, I recommend the XT shifter. Dropping 2 gears at once is really nice on an MTB where you change speed quickly.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    Here is a good gear calculator to compare your existing and proposed drivetrain.

    I recommend the 11-speed and a 11-46 or so cassette. Alternatively a 10-42 if you have an xD driver, but adding that would be pricey. More range = better. I have 11-46 on my fatbike and use the full range. It came with 11-42 and more range just makes things easier on occasion.

    If you go with the 11-speed, I recommend the XT shifter. Dropping 2 gears at once is really nice on an MTB where you change speed quickly.
    Thanks for that link - I think I'll stick with 10 speed though as the I can live with the difference of an 18 instead of a 17 & 19 and it gives the extra 42

    First lot of upgrades compatibility advice - Wheels/Cassette etc-ratio.jpg

    Edit - I'm reading I'll need a GoatLink to make my Rear Derailleur (Shimano Deore Shadow+) 11-42 is that correct?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrdaz1992 View Post
    Thanks for that link - I think I'll stick with 10 speed though as the I can live with the difference of an 18 instead of a 17 & 19 and it gives the extra 42

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Edit - I'm reading I'll need a GoatLink to make my Rear Derailleur (Shimano Deore Shadow+) 11-42 is that correct?
    Highly recommended to get a goatlink (make sure itís the goatlink, not the goatlink11 for 11spd 11-50t cassettes), but some users of this forum have mentioned that sunrace cassettes (possibly other 3rd party cassettes as well) come with a longer b-screw, which provide the same clearance.

    However, if on the off chance that your deore derailleur is the newer m6000 series, it should already be able to fit 11-46t.


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  20. #20
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    It may work just fine with the B tension screw all the way in or a bit longer B screw, but the Goatlink is the easy, safe way to know it'll work for sure. Try it with just the B tension screw slammed and see if ti works, if not order the Goatlink, or just save the time and order it one time, only like $19.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrdaz1992 View Post
    Thanks for that link - I think I'll stick with 10 speed though as the I can live with the difference of an 18 instead of a 17 & 19 and it gives the extra 4

    Edit - I'm reading I'll need a GoatLink to make my Rear Derailleur (Shimano Deore Shadow+) 11-42 is that correct?
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