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  1. #1
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    Dt m1700 or bostinate and redish "old" carbon wheels

    My new bike came with DT swiss M1700-25 wheels. The internet suggest they weigh 1800 g ish.

    From my old bike I have carbon wheels 24 mm hook less id. They are built on dt 350 hubs, and built by a master in the wheel building arts. These are 3 years old, but hold up just fine, with just cosmetic scratches etc. They have never needed truing and the bearing run smooth. Weight is apx 1600g.

    I will sell one of these wheel sets but are having a har time deciding which one. The carbon wheels will need to be boostinated.
    The m1700 are currently in use. The carbon wheels will bring in some more cash than the m1700s.

    I am tempted to reuse the old wheels to save weight, and ease of mind for the bombprofness they have shown me.

    What are your thoughts?

    Sent fra min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    Sell both and build a carbon wider rim DT350 Boost wheelset. You'd need new hubs to change your carbon wheelset to Boost, anyway. Depending on where and how you ride and what bike you have you could benefit from a 35mm inner rim wheelset. Or a wheelset with a wider front rim wheel paired with a 5mm skinnier rear rim wheel.

  3. #3
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    Why not swap the hubs?
    Probably you will need new spokes, and if it's not you lacing the wheels you will need to add that to the cost, but that an option of you like the Spline hubs.
    Personally I would choose the boostinator, there are good options to DT hubs, like the ones from Wolftooth.

  4. #4
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    Here's the install on 350s for the MRP Better Boost kit.

  5. #5
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    Og was the Bostinator kit from wolftooth I was considering.
    Anyone with first hand experience? Any possible "traps"

    Sent fra min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cmon77 View Post
    Og was the Bostinator kit from wolftooth I was considering.
    Anyone with first hand experience? Any possible "traps"

    Sent fra min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

    If you're sure that there is a boost endcap solution that works with your hubs, then the only other thing to check is whether your current wheels can be redished safely. Most can, but it's better to check how much spoke engagement you have in your current nips than to just assume/guess that it'll be fine.

    Pull your tires, pull the tape, and use a flashlight to see where your current spoke heads sit in the nips. Also check for corrosion while you're in there.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    If you're sure that there is a boost endcap solution that works with your hubs, then the only other thing to check is whether your current wheels can be redished safely. Most can, but it's better to check how much spoke engagement you have in your current nips than to just assume/guess that it'll be fine.

    Pull your tires, pull the tape, and use a flashlight to see where your current spoke heads sit in the nips. Also check for corrosion while you're in there.
    That's an advice I can use
    How much spoke engagement will I need? I e how much adjustment am I looking at doing per spoke?
    I understand that I need to slacken off drive side, and tighten nd side.

    Sent fra min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    I removed the tape for inspection. Some of the nipples have a small amount of grayish goo on them. It can be flushed of with water though. The alu doesn't seem to be damaged though. Any reason to concern?

    Any way the drive side spokes, which will need to be slackened to boostinate the wheel seems to go just to the end of the nipple. As far as I can understand the end will now end up inside the nipple, and I have set myself up for nipples breaking all the time. Is this correct? Can I change to brass nipples?
    I am thinking I should just put this wheel set out on the market.

    Sent fra min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    I'd switch to brass to avoid concern. I'd also sell and build a new wheelset with brass Polyax.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cmon77 View Post
    I removed the tape for inspection. Some of the nipples have a small amount of grayish goo on them. It can be flushed of with water though. The alu doesn't seem to be damaged though. Any reason to concern?

    Any way the drive side spokes, which will need to be slackened to boostinate the wheel seems to go just to the end of the nipple. As far as I can understand the end will now end up inside the nipple, and I have set myself up for nipples breaking all the time. Is this correct? Can I change to brass nipples?
    I am thinking I should just put this wheel set out on the market.

    Sent fra min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

    If your spoke head is currently flush with the top of the nip, you've got plenty of real estate with which to work. You aren't going to turn those nips enough to really matter.

    Might be worth spraying something on the nip heads to neutralize the 'gray goo' corrosion that has started, then flush with distilled water. Let dry before re-taping.

  11. #11
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    Yesterday I removed goo and checked some of the nipples. They move fine and does not look to have been damaged. I decided to boostinate, and ordered the wolftooth kits
    Does the spoke nipple interface need some sort of locking agent after redishing?

    Sent fra min SM-G950F via Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cmon77 View Post
    (...)
    Does the spoke nipple interface need some sort of locking agent after redishing?
    No.
    Just make sure you have adequate tension on the spokes after you re-dish the wheel.

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