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  1. #1
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    Disassembling Industry 9 Torch -- TIP

    Perhaps I'm a fastidious proponent of preventive maintenance, or maybe just OCD. Regardless, periodically I like to disassemble the freehub, clean it up, and relube everything. Recently I got a pair of I9 hubs, and now they have enough miles that maintenance is prudent.

    I watched the videos and half-heartedly tried it on a couple occasions. But those end caps sure do seem like they're welded in place. Yesterday I talked to the mechanic at the LBS, and he confirmed that sometimes they're ridiculous to take apart. So tonight they were coming apart--one way or another.

    Then I remembered a gift from my wife a few years back. I'm a tool whore, so sometimes a tool will sit on the shelf for years between uses. Such was the case with my bearing extractor kit.

    I got the correct size extractor from the box, set it up, and screwed the slide hammer onto it. BAM! BAM! BAM! And apart it came.

    This is an import that costs about sixty bucks. A GOOD kit would probably cost hundreds. But the frequency with which I use this probably means it will last the rest of my life. So if you're an I9 kind of rider, you might want to get the correct tool rather than bugger up your hubs with pliers.

    Disassembling Industry 9 Torch -- TIP-img_5903.jpgDisassembling Industry 9 Torch -- TIP-img_5904.jpg

  2. #2
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    I9 makes a removal tool for the drive side end cap. I't in their store.

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    Remember, when you remove the end caps ensure you have not sheared the O-rings in the end caps.

  4. #4
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    That's interesting. My first experience with the drive side end cap was when it came off unexpectedly taking the cassette body with it! As YogiKudo mentions, check the O-rings on the end caps. I contacted i9 and they sent me several O-rings for each side free of charge. They recommend that you change the O-rings each time you remove the end caps. Here's part of an email I got from i9: "Any time the endcap comes off it should be re-fitted with a new o-ring. There are two phenomena that happen with these. 1) Installing the o-ring with too little lubrication will make the ring shear on the axle keeping it from having a tight fit 2) too much lube making it easy to overcome the tight fit. "

    I also ordered some O-rings from ebay. Unfortunately, I can't find the order info but based on the i9 exploded diagram, I think the rear end caps use 17 x 1 mm O-rings.

  5. #5
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    I have a pair of coated spark plug puller pliers. I just grab on to the end cap and jiggle it until it pops off.

  6. #6
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    On my first Torch rear hub end cap removal I was really surprised how difficult it was to remove. Axle has a receiver groove for the end cap o-ring. Not sure if the o-ring is used for axle alignment or just retention?

  7. #7
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    I just built a carbon wheel using a I9 classic hub (with Shimano freehub) and I wanted to put some more grease on the pawls to help quiet it down. I found (after trying multiple things!) that if I put the cassette on and use 2 wide screwdrivers I could pry gently against the cassette and the spokes until the end cap came off for the first time. I hope I don't need to do this every time!
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  8. #8
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    The first time off is the most difficult...

    I have used Canon Plug Pliers and the vice.

    Name:  Z1uBIyqcpEx_.JPG
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    You can't see the vice very well, but in the vice jaws are the Park AV-5 Axle/spindle jaws

    Disassembling Industry 9 Torch -- TIP-20180123_205946.jpg

    Disassembling Industry 9 Torch -- TIP-tl7013_24cf024a-7787-49c1-a942-05f6cd952768_grande.jpg

    Lube those end cap "O" rings and axle, and the next removal should be pretty easy.
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  9. #9
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    -A few shop-quality rags and Channel-Locks are all I've ever needed for the end-caps on multiple pairs of I9's.....
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  10. #10
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    I saw something cool a while back where a guy had a large pair of vice grips with some cut garden hose pieces that he slipped over the ends of vice grips (jaws) to protect the end caps. I thought that was pretty cool.
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  11. #11
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    Love my torch hubs, but those ends caps are a challenge to remove. Front wheel easy. Rear non drive side, a little difficult, but was able to pull off by hand. Drive side of the hub..... thought it was impossible at first. I did find a 1/4" ratchet extension flipped around to the female end fits perfect to tap out the drive side cap. First remove the non drive side cap, then insert the female end of the extension and gently tap the male end with a mallet. Works for me! Also, def replace the o rings or you'll very water infusion.

  12. #12
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    I rarely have to replace the end cap "O" rings, although it's a good plan to always have a spare set on hand. I ensure that the "O" rings are well lubricated before re-installing with whatever grease you use for your bearings. Additionally, make sure to add grease over the bearing seals between the end cap and bearing to aid in keeping water and trail contaminates out.

    Disassembling Industry 9 Torch -- TIP-20170122_160422.jpg Disassembling Industry 9 Torch -- TIP-20170122_162105.jpg Disassembling Industry 9 Torch -- TIP-20170122_162136.jpg
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  13. #13
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    I rarely have to replace the end cap "O" rings
    For my first rear hub service, I was able to get the NDS end cap off with my fingers, but I could not get the DS end cap off. I tried pliers and a vice, and at some point I decided I didn't want to use any more force or I might ovalize the end cap. So I stopped, and I went online and I ordered the end cap removal tool from I9. I also went ahead and ordered the bearing presses as well. I9 sells a kit containing the bearing presses and the end cap removal tool for $60.

    When I use the end cap removal tool, I have to whack it pretty hard several times in order to get the DS end cap off. And, every time I remove the stuck end cap with the end cap removal tool, it tears the o-ring, so I need to have a supply of the o-rings on hand. Does anyone know if the o-rings for the front hub end caps are the same as for the rear hub end caps?

    When reassembling, I use a thicker grease than Slick Honey on the end caps and the outside bearing face. I use Rock N Roll Super Web grease, which is a really sticky white grease, and I think it forms an impenetrable barrier to water ingress, although I don't ride in wet conditions, so I don't really know.

    For front hub and rear hub bearing service, the following looks like a nice tutorial:

    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/blo...ine-torch-hubs

    You can use that tutorial to service the hubs without removing the bearings, as well. I use a 90 degree pick to replace the springs under the pawls. I use the elbow of the pick to press in the spring, then I slide the pawl half way on, then I remove the pick and slide the pawl all the way into the pawl pocket.

    Step 36 is a little unclear:
    Continue to slide the freehub body onto the hub axle. Once the freehub and hub shell come in to contact, spin the push the freehub into the hub. The paws will compress allowing the freehub to fit tight to the hub shell.
    When the freehub and the drive ring (the thing with all the teeth) come into contact with each other, i.e. when you can't push the freehub into the wheel anymore, turn the freehub counter clockwise while gently pressing the freehub body into the wheel, as shown here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypkaCJcDl8k

    The outside edge of the drive ring has ridges machined into it, and when you turn the freehub counter clockwise, those ridges catch the pawls and compress them so that you can slide the freehub into the drive ring. That's a pretty neat feature. Otherwise, you would have to wrap something like dental floss around all the pawls to compress them and hold them in while you tried to fiddle the freehub back into the drive ring.
    Last edited by happyriding; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:19 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    When I use the end cap removal tool, I have to whack it pretty hard several times in order to get the DS end cap off. And, every time I remove the stuck end cap with the end cap removal tool, it tears the o-ring, so I need to have a supply of the o-rings on hand.
    Are you lubing the internal "O" ring?


    Quote Originally Posted by happyriding View Post
    Does anyone know if the o-rings for the front hub end caps are the same as for the rear hub end caps?
    No, they're not the same. The front caps do not have an internal cap "O" ring like the rear hub end cap, only an external cap "O" ring.

    The rear hub end caps only have an internal "O" ring. The rear external end cap seal is Teflon.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Are you lubing the internal "O" ring?
    Yes. I had to take my end caps off 4 times in one week when trying to figure out what was wrong with my rear hub, and I ripped the DS o-ring each time.

    No, they're not the same.
    Okay, thanks. I9's store on their website is so confusing.

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