135mm x 10mm QR vs 10mm Thru Axle- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    135mm x 10mm QR vs 10mm Thru Axle

    I'm about to pull the trigger on a new wheelset for my 29er build and plan to go with Chris King ISO Disc hubs. My frame has 135mm spacing in the rear and I was planning on going with a standard 10mm QR axle but noticed on the CK website I could also opt for a 10mm thru axle set up or 10mm fun bolts. CK also offers a 135mm x 12mm thru axle set up but I assume it will not fit standard rear drop outs? My question is whether for XC riding there are any reasons why I would not use a QR set up rather than thru axle (is there any perceptable differenace in stiffness or other advantage)? I have ridden a standard 135mm x 10mm QR axle set up on my 26" mtb for years and never had a problem but thru axle set ups seem to be getting a lot of attention these days although I guess it's primarily used for DH and FR set ups?

    Also, my new front fork uses a 15mm QR thru axle set up (Fox) and here again with CK I can opt for a SD (small diameter) 15mm thru axle hub or a 15mm LD (large diameter hub). I have pretty much decided to go with the SD given it is lighter and the LD seems like over kill for XC use but would be interested in hearing any reasons why the LD might be a better choice.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
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    The 10mm thru setup you're looking at would normally be called a thru bolt. The 10mm bolt that you use (Hadley, DT Swiss RWS, etc) will be less elastic than a QR skewer and so it will do a bit better job of maintaining its clamping force and keep the wheel and dropouts from flexing under cornering pressure, through rock gardens, etc. The flexier the rear triangle of your frame the greater the chance you will notice it, and the chances are generally better on a full suspension frame than a hardtail. Overall it's generally not that big of an upgrade, but personally I would err on the side of stiffness especially if it's about the same price and weight.

    A real "thru axle" passes through a hole in the frame on one side and threads into the frame on the other side. These do an even better job of keeping the hub and rear triangle stiff and straight under pressure, but the frame has to be designed with that system in the first place

  3. #3
    meow meow
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    if you can at minimal or no cost do it. no a crazy awesome upgrade like boomn said but imo worth it.

  4. #4
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    The Chris King can convert

    The Chris King can convert from QR or 10mm "Fun Bolts" if you buy the convertable Chris King hub, so if you change your mind and want to go back to QR all you have to do is thread the QR end caps in the hub. I noticed a difference when I went from QR to 10mm bolt on with a full suspension bike, it had less side flex.
    Erik,
    Balle Racing

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