One 9 SS options- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    One 9 SS options

    I've been slowly but surely upgrading my One 9 Hydroformed singlespeed and the weight has come down nicely. It started as a backup bike built with used parts and is now my primary ride. Looking to see if there are any other places to drop a good amount of weight without getting too stupid.

    Current weight is 21.7 lbs.

    Frame: Niner One 9 Hydroformed aluminum (3.58 lbs. if I'm not mistaken)
    Fork: Rockshox Reba RL29
    Wheels: Stan's Crest w/Hope hubs. 14/15 DB Sapim spokes
    Tires: Maxxis Ikon 3C/EXO/TR (2.20 rear/2.35 front)
    Handlebar: Niner RDO
    Seatpost: Niner RDO
    Crank: SRAM XX1/GXP
    Chainring: AbsoluteBlack 32 oval direct mount
    Chain: SRAM PC1
    Cog: Surly
    Brakes: Shimano XT
    Grips: ESI chunky
    Pedals: Crank Bros. eggbeaters
    Saddle: old Selle Flite Italia

    I'm probably going to swap the hydroformed One 9 frame for the RDO. That should drop about 3/4 lbs. Anything else standout as being way out of line or easily swapped? I'd love to get to 20 lbs., just to say it's 20 lbs but I also don't want to sacrifice a ton of reliability. This bike has been bombproof all year.

  2. #2
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    I bet swapping the tires out for lighter ones will get you there. Take a look at Schwalbe thunder berts. They're pretty light.

    Carbon seatpost, bar and stem.

    You could go rigid. A carbon fork would drop a bunch a weight.

  3. #3
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    Seems like a solid build. I'd leave it be. Maybe a 2.2 exo ikon for summer use up front.

  4. #4
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    The good news is that you have a lot of smart choices on the bike.

    The bad news is because of the existing smart choices, further weight loss is in the pricey range.

    -I was going to say the frame was holding you back, and that's usually not an option, so great to see you're considering the RDO.
    -You could save 60-80g moving to a SID fork, but I'm not sure it's worth it.
    -I'm not 100%, but I believe you can save ~200g on a new wheelset, but would be very pricey. Maybe a longer-term thing?
    -Carbon saddle from eBay is a nice cheap saving.
    -About 100g total can be saved on tires, but that's very much a personal preference thing/terrain thing, so up to you if you want to experiment a bit. You'd likely lose sidewall toughness though at the very least.
    -It is not worth moving from XT to XTR brakes for weight saving.
    -Which eggbeaters? I think the 11s are decently lighter than their entry versions, so that could be an option if you like their mechanism.
    -You could save 20-40g on the seastpost/bars, but the RDOs are great so I say not worth it. And they match the bike nicely.
    -What stem are you running? Would be small difference anyway.

  5. #5
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    Oh, and what brake rotors - makes and sizes? Any adapters used? I'm sure you know how much braking you need by now, but some people seem to be over-braked, and can both downsize to a smaller rotor, and often drop an adapter as well in the process.

  6. #6
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    I'd recommend a quality carbon wheelset. Your build is very solid, and I don't see an easy way to lose a lot of weight. A carbon wheelset should have the biggest impact on ride quality and performance though, while possibly losing some weight.

    If you are looking at Rigid, consider the Enve fork. I have one on my One 9 RDO, and really like it. Also stands out against all the rigid niner forks.

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys. Some answers/comments:

    - Not going rigid! I realize that could get me in the 18 lbs. range but the goal is 20lbs with suspension. You can have my fork when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers. About half of my riding buddies run rigid (all singlespeeders) but even the most hardcore of them regret it quite often.
    - Swapping to a SiD is in the future. I'm building a bike for my wife and will put the Reba on her bike and get a SiD for me when that happens.
    - I'm running the Eggbeater 3's. I'll keep my eyes out for a deal on the 11s. Those have a Ti spindle, right?
    - As for rotors, I'm running SLX 160mm non-Ice-tech (solid) rotors front and rear. I have the XT Ice Techs on another bike but don't need them on the SS. No adapter on the front but I do have one on the rear. The RDO frame will eliminate the rear adapter.
    - Stem is an option. I'm running a generic RaceFace takeoff and have no idea of the weight. It's short (50mm? 60mm?) so it's not adding to a bunch of weight but every bit helps.
    - I need to throw my saddle on the scale to see if there's any room there.
    - Like you said, tires are very personal. I would give up my goal of 20 lbs. if it meant increasing the risk of a sidewall tear deep in the woods. The Ikon is a great tire for my local trails for at least 8 months of the year. If I did go lighter, it would be a race-day only tire.
    - What about chain and sprocket? I'm sure an aluminum cog would be lighter but I'm rough on cogs (my two surlys, 19t and 20t, are showing obvious wear after less than a year. May not be worth going to aluminum if I'm going to go through a cog every couple of months.

    thanks again for the comments. It's refreshing to know I'm pretty much at the peak of reliability vs. weight...it's been a fun journey. One 9 RDO, here I come!

  8. #8
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    You can try bolt through axles on the front and rear. Get a Maxle Stealth for the front and if the rear uses a 142, you can go with one from any of the third party manufacturers.

    I saved a decent amount of weight going from the Ice Tech to the Ashima Ai2. Add some Ti bolts in there too.

  9. #9
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    I'm trying to figure out where the weight is in your bike? I have a similar set up to you:

    On One Scandal frame (similar weight to the Niner - around 1600g)
    Reba forks
    Chris king hubs on Crest rims, revolution spokes, Rocket Ron Snakeskin F, Racing Ralph Snakeskin rear.
    XT 775 Brakes with Aligator starlite rotors.
    Race face dues cranks, surly sprocket.
    Speedplay frog pedals.
    Chinese carbon post, Old school flight saddle.
    Ritchey riser bars and Easton Ea70 stem.

    Mine is sub 20lb with nothing too weight weenyish on it. I think the main difference between ours will be the wheels. I think the Hope rear hub is fairly portly (so is the Chris king, but not as much as the hope) and i have lighter spokes.
    Lapierre XR29ei, Chris King LB Carbon, XTR 1 X 10
    Planet X Dirty Harry
    Chiner 29er SS

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcbarny View Post
    I'm trying to figure out where the weight is in your bike? I have a similar set up to you:
    I can't figure it out either. I first thought it might be my scale (a cheapo fish scale from Cabela's, lol). I put every component on a spreadsheet and my actual weight is higher than my calculated weight. Spreadsheet shows a weight of 20.44. Actual weight 21.70. No idea how I've got an extra 1.25 pounds. I've included everything I can think of -- stan's fluid, valve stems, etc. Either way, it's not under 20 lbs. even thought a lot of people with seemingly heavier component lists (or frames) are under 20.

    My only guess is that I ride with a group of crazy, ball-busting singlespeeders and it's not above them to figure out a way to sneak a couple pounds of dead weight onto my bike as a joke.

    For reference, here's the spreadsheet calc. Feel free to check my numbers.

    One 9 SS options-one9-weight.jpg

  11. #11
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    Out of curiosity, do you have any claimed weights in the list of individual components, or are they all weighed separately?

    It is not uncommon to have +/- 5% on claimed weight vs actual. That 5% of your spreadsheet weight (20.44) equates to just over 1 lb.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    Out of curiosity, do you have any claimed weights in the list of individual components, or are they all weighed separately?

    It is not uncommon to have +/- 5% on claimed weight vs actual. That 5% of your spreadsheet weight (20.44) equates to just over 1 lb.
    I attached the spreadsheet screenshot to my post above. Some weights are posted and some are actual. The total bike weight is actual.

  13. #13
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    Ah, see it now. First off, your seatpost binder is weightless. Is there something funky build into the frame on the Niner One 9?

    Surprisingly, you could save 100g in the seatpost alone - the RDO is surprising at 220g. I still think you could save 100g on rubber alone, so there's a half pound between those two things.

    As for the "extra weight", I suspect it is a combination of any claimed weights you are using, and possibly a % of inaccuracy in the cheapo scale you are using. As mentioned, the difference between suspected (speadsheet) and actual is ~ 5%.

  14. #14
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    I got the seatpost weight off the Ninerbikes.com site. Didn't realize there are lighter ones out there. It's way lighter than my old aluminum one!

    The seatpost binder is included in the frame weight from what I understand. If I'm wrong, that's a good 50g.

    The next step will be to weigh each part individually the next time I do a full tear down and rebuild.

    Thanks for the comments!

  15. #15
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    Happy to help. Another thing you can save on is the QRs - I think RSVR6 mentioned above. You can save >40g on the rear with a Tune alone. (That same post also gives an example of a light seatpost around 100g.)

    I'll probably sell my 135 Tune QR, so if interested, just PM me.

  16. #16
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    Does the frame weight include the biocentric bb?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinGT View Post

    My only guess is that I ride with a group of crazy, ball-busting singlespeeders and it's not above them to figure out a way to sneak a couple pounds of dead weight onto my bike as a joke.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	One9 Weight.jpg 
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    What...? Do you mean like handlebarball bearings?

    HTFU Scooter!



    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    I'm tearing the bike down completely today and I'm sure I'll find lead weights in there somewhere. I knew not to leave my bike unattended in Brevard!

    (and, as far as I know, the frame weight includes the EBBII)

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