My bike needs to loose 1/2 pound, please advice,Extralite E-Bones W's.???- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    My bike needs to loose 1/2 pound, please advice,Extralite E-Bones W's.???

    Litespeed Niota,
    Ti Eggbeaters
    All XT
    Mavic Enduro wheels
    WTB Lazer seat
    Thompson elite post
    Carbon handlebar Azonic
    Fox Float 100 RL fork
    RP3 rear shock

    So Im replacing my Fox float 100 RL witha Talas 130 RLC.
    Im adding 1/2 pound of weight.
    So I want to compensate loosing the same weight somewhere on the bike.

    I was thinking cranks, does anyone know the weight of the XT cranks?

    Are Extralite E-Bones W's any good????

    Any ideas are welcomed

  2. #2
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    that kind of fork with an Extralite crankset would be an odd combination!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurorider
    that kind of fork with an Extralite crankset would be an odd combination!
    Why is that?

    I use the bike for all mountain, we have long steep climbs, ( I love to climb), and long rough downhills, lots of technical terrain.

    Will the Extralite E-Bones W's be too fragile for this type of use?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoadve
    Why is that?

    I use the bike for all mountain, we have long steep climbs, ( I love to climb), and long rough downhills, lots of technical terrain.

    Will the Extralite E-Bones W's be too fragile for this type of use?
    I agree with the above statement. The fox talas is a All mountain style fork, while the Extralite cranks are ultra light XC.

    You need to decide on what you want the bike to be designed for. If you want to save weight, then go light weight wheels, but if your making a trail bike, then getting light weight wheels is stupid becuase they will just break.

    How much do you weigh? When you say All mountain, some people say they ride all mountain and they keep very close to the ground and more ride XC on a all mountain bike, while others do 5'+ drops and ride ski resorts....

    You may be fine with ultra light components, but sometimes it's not worth the risk, IMO.


  5. #5
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    id lose the saddle....WTBs are notoriously beefy
    replace tubes with maxxis flyweights
    thats roughly 200grams right there...

    ....what cassette, tires, stem, and handlebars are you using?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoadve
    Litespeed Niota,
    Ti Eggbeaters
    All XT
    Mavic Enduro wheels
    WTB Lazer seat
    Thompson elite post
    Carbon handlebar Azonic
    Fox Float 100 RL fork
    RP3 rear shock

    So Im replacing my Fox float 100 RL witha Talas 130 RLC.
    Im adding 1/2 pound of weight.
    So I want to compensate loosing the same weight somewhere on the bike.

    I was thinking cranks, does anyone know the weight of the XT cranks?

    Are Extralite E-Bones W's any good????

    Any ideas are welcomed
    Might just make more sense to look elsewhere. XTR cassette, different lightweight cranks (not to say the E-Bones aren't any good, but with what the others say.....) like Kooka's or something, and a lightweight BB to match.

    Also, which WTB Laser seat? There's 4 or 5 different types with weights between ~250 - 350.

    Stem?

    Tires and tubes?
    I ..... need ..... DIRT!!!!!

    ... and cookies.

  7. #7
    Just passing through....
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jersey
    replace tubes with maxxis flyweights
    thats roughly 200grams right there...
    I agree. Depending on what you are using now, lightweight tubes or tubeless conversion may get your 1/2 pound for you.
    If you want to play with electricity, more power to ya......

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewTO
    Might just make more sense to look elsewhere. XTR cassette, different lightweight cranks (not to say the E-Bones aren't any good, but with what the others say.....) like Kooka's or something, and a lightweight BB to match.

    Also, which WTB Laser seat? There's 4 or 5 different types with weights between ~250 - 350.

    Stem?

    Tires and tubes?
    I have tubeless spider tires
    The seat WTB lazer is super comfortable and worth the extra 50 grams, it has ti rails
    I ride all mountain terrain but dont jump, but ride very fast on the downhills , even rough terrain(semi pro enduro moto racer).

    Like climbing too , so for me is kind of a hard decission to go to the Talas since I have a pushed Fox F100, but tried one the other day and is a nice feeling having 130 on fast downhills.

    Please keep the ideas coming.
    How much weight will I save in a XTR crank over the XT?
    Even if I dont put the Talas will be nice to loose some weight.

    Lighter wheels will not last in the terrain I ride, I have seen on my friends bike and already they bent and broke.

  9. #9
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    Will the geometry of the Niota work well with the 130mm Talas up hills and on flats? Might be nice downhill buit if you have to ride a range of stuff it might ne prove a good move.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asahi
    Will the geometry of the Niota work well with the 130mm Talas up hills and on flats? Might be nice downhill buit if you have to ride a range of stuff it might ne prove a good move.
    Yes the Niota has the option of 100 or 130 mm in the rear, and for steep climbs the Talas can go to 90mm

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoadve
    Yes the Niota has the option of 100 or 130 mm in the rear, and for steep climbs the Talas can go to 90mm
    bump bump

  12. #12
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    Change...

    I would steer clear of the Extralight cranks if you think that you would break lighter wheels in the type terrain you'll be riding in. Chances are if you race Moto Enduro your abit heavy also- not saying fat - just heavier than the likes of your average XC whippet.

    A pretty nice setup all up but I would change a few things, which will drop a little weight...

    XT Cranks: Swap these with XTR or Raceface Dues... But tune the dues with Extralight or TA rings, seal the seattube on the bike, and take out the plastic bb shell... My calculations say you'd be able to get them down to 780g to 790g withough spending much more than $400USD to your door thats a saving of about 70g. OR you could tune the XT's and save about 40g.

    Cassette: Change it for an XTR, keep it clean and it will last ages. Available in all sorts of sazes... If you are game you could go a 12/27 Dura-Ace, but if there are laods of climbs in the area you might not like that. You'll save about 30g to 40g with the XTR, and about 100g with the Dura-Ace.

    Rear Derailleur: An XTR rear derailleur will save about 30g, it's an expencive option as well. XTR shifts a little better- Bike Freak has a good philosiphy for it- XT is good enough for pro's but XTR is better. Having used both XT and XTR I agree.

    Tyres: Ditch the UST tyres- and use "normal" ones with Stans goo or even homemade stuff... You can get great high volume tyres weighing in the 500g range personally I like Kenda's DTC range, Hutchinson's Airlight tyres are good too. And most work great runnig them with No Tubes. UST tyres are generally about 650g to 800g in weight... So you will save at least 100g per tyre, maybe even more... This is weight you WILL notice as it is rotational weight.

    Stem Chances are you are runnig a heavy stem- you don't really need to. A 125g stem is just as stiff as a 200g Thompson stem- you will never notice it with 130mm of travel up front anyways... Loads of cheap stems available. Pizzaz, numerious other brands. You'll save between 50g and 75g depending on what you are running at the moment.

    Seat Post Something lighter? A USE, a carbon fiber post the options are countless... And could save upto 50g dependant on what Thompson post you have and what post you go with, very subjective though. I didnt include this in the table, but it's a much cheaper way to loose 30g then buying an XTR rear Deraileur.

    So you could quiet easily save...
    Cranks: 40g (70g if used lighter cranks)
    Cassette: 35g (XTR)
    Rear Derailleur: 30g (XTR)
    Tyres: 200g (Even more if you are currently using heavy tyres)
    Stem: 50g (how low do you want to go?)
    ------------------------------
    Total: 355g or 485g if you change the cranks, and dependant on tyres.
    For those of us using imperial measurements... 355g is 0.7lbs (12.5oz), and 485g is about 1lbs (1.06lbs to be exact).

    Hope that helps some.
    Cul is a regretted trademark of the CulBaire Co'op Pty Ltd, as are his random ramblings and associated bullshit.

  13. #13
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    Very helpfull thanks a lot

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