Hylix Super/Ultra light Carbon Seatpost -- first impressions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Hylix Super/Ultra light Carbon Seatpost -- first impressions

    I was considering a KCNC or Aerozine Alu/Ti post, but had read too many complaints of the seat attachment being inadequate, plus I really like the comfort of carbon on my handlebars, so I started investigating carbon seatposts. I saw this seatpost on Ebay with a claimed weight of 160 grams.

    Given that all remarks here about the regular Hylix Carbon seatposts (which weighs 240 grams and sells for about $40 delivered) have been positive, and the two-year warranty and the fact that they seem to be selling a lot of them, I took a chance. The rider weight limit is 280 lbs. I am about 175, so that leaves some margin

    The seller shipped the same day. As luck would have it, delivery from China took longer than usual (over 30 days), but it finally arrived.

    It weighed in on my scale, (which I believe to be accurate based on tests with coins) at 146 grams (27.2x410mm). I had to file away a little stray carbon to clean out the mounting hole. Other than that, I was very satisfied with the construction and overall appearance. The wall thickness looks more than adequate, and in fact is very thick where the seat attaches. The finish is a matte carbon weave pattern, with position markings on the front where they are easy to read, and either red or black anodized aluminum hardware.

    The seat attachment is rock-solid. No complaints at all there. The two bolts are Ti, and the rest of the hardware is aluminum, again more than beefy enough. I figure if it is going to fail, it will be where the pin goes thru the holes at the top of the carbon post. So to be safe I tightened the two bolts to somewhat less than 5 nm using my Torque Key.

    I rode it for the first time today. It was the first time I have ever ridden a carbon seatpost on an aluminum bike. The difference wasn't as dramatic as going from aluminum to carbon bars, but it was definitely more comfortable. The best way I can describe it is that it feels smoother when riding over normal dirt trail. There my be a little less shock if you fail to stand up when crossing roots and rocks (I have a hardtail. Or I should say the bike has a hard tail. Me, not so much ). Although I hadn't ridden in a couple weeks, my butt wasn't as sore as it normally is after a ride.

    As I said, the seat attachment bolts are at less than 5 nm. However, the seat stayed positioned. I prepared the seat tube by using used a small round file to make sure there were no sharp edges on the opening, and an ignition file to remove edges on the slots in the seat tube.

    I tightened the seat tube clamp to the usual 5 nm, and did not use any carbon assembly grease. I cleaned out the little bit of old grease that was in the seat tube.

    The Hylix Super/Ultra light Carbon Seatpost sells for $69 including shipping. However, with a little patience, they can be had by auction for around $50 delivered.

    Hylix Super Ultra Light Carbon Seatpost 27 2 30 9 31 6 34 9 400mm Red 160g | eBay

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  3. #3
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    Thanks for the link!

  4. #4
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    Glad you posted this. Think I'm going to buy one for my sons bike! Cheaper and lighter than a used name brand.

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    The only thing that concerns me with these is the quality control, especially stress testing.

    Not to say name brands are perfect, and that Chinese eBay carbon is terrible (I bought a carbon saddle and it was great), but I am concerned around bars and stems especially.

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    I would probably stay away from bar and stem also. I'll research failures on these first. This is the same reason I haven't pulled the trigger on LB rims yet. Even though most people seem to like those.

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    Hylix Super/Ultra light Carbon Seatpost -- first impressions-brokenseatpost.jpg

    Well, it was fun while it lasted. I stood up to cross some roots, sat down, and it was like there was nothing there. It looked like the seatpost had been damaged by overtightening, although I used a 5nm torque key.

    After some head-scratching, I think I figured out what went wrong. I got a warranty-replacement frame due to a small crack in the keyhole slot in the seat tube. It came with a new clamp. The old clamp had a narrow gap that would totally close when you tightened it. In fact, I had filed the gap out a little wider because my stock seatpost was slipping.

    The new clamp has a wider gap. It does not close when you tighten it. 5nm is simply too much for this seatpost apparently.

    I researched instructions for other seatposts. Several said to tighten until the nose of the seat could not be twisted. One said 2 or 3 nm. Others allow more.

    I ordered an Easton, and it said to tork "as specified for your equipment". There were no specifications printed in the instructions, box, or seatpost, so I emailed Easton. They replied the next morning, telling me to tork it to whatever was stamped on the clamp. So 5 nm it is. The Easton is a beefier post, and 60 grams heavier.

    So the takeaway is to be careful with seatpost clamp tightening.

    I contacted the seller, and he is replacing it. I sent pictures, but he still wants me to return the broken post, less hardware. It cost less than $7 to return-mail (first-class airmail thru PayPal, which provides tracking), so I am satisfied. I'll probably put it on my wife's bike. She's 110# wet.

    As an experiment, I tightened the seat attachment bolts about as tight as you can with a long Allen wrench, and nothing broke. So it looks like that part is sufficiently strong.

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    Just to confirm, you used carbon paste, correct?

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    Hylix Super/Ultra light Carbon Seatpost -- first impressions

    No, I didn't. What does it do exactly? Should I use it on the Easton?

    Thanks.

  10. #10
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    Hylix Super/Ultra light Carbon Seatpost -- first impressions

    That may have been your problem, carbon paste is used to increase friction, therefore reducing slippage of the post.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    The torque number you see on the clamp or whatever part that does the clamping is for the hardware and not the item that is being clamped. In your case the seatpost. Its there so that you don't tighten the bolt till it snaps...which a lot of people do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisF View Post
    No, I didn't. What does it do exactly? Should I use it on the Easton?

    Thanks.
    It allows more grip on carbon items. It's a must for all carbon bits, especially bars, stems, seatposts.

    Here's one example:
    Hylix Super/Ultra light Carbon Seatpost -- first impressions-image.jpg

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    Never used that either. Do you use it under shifter/brake levers?

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    Quote Originally Posted by stew325 View Post
    Never used that either. Do you use it under shifter/brake levers?
    No.

    I like Motorex carbon paste the best, because it has none of the grit of the other pastes (doesn't scratch your components) but still does the job well.

    Name:  CARBON_GREASE.jpg
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    MOTOREX

  15. #15
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    I try to avoid friction paste at all costs. I did have to use it once. It pretty much ruins whatever surface it come in contact with. You can probably use some chalk with similar results.

  16. #16
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    I have the same post although, the top of mine has an aluminum junction and weighed in at 179g it survived one of tje roughest races I could put it through but I took it off due to needing a setback post. Tue mounting system is pretty iffy. I hope tonfind a setback post in the under 200g range for cheap one of these days. Cant afford the name brands yet.

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    Zero quality control

    I bought one from Ebay, paid US$69.00 for it and all I can say about it is that is a piece of c***. Money thrown in the thrash. It came with the carbon craddle and weighed 152g. This seatpost has serious QC problems, the craddle support is crooked to one side (the seat becomes higher in one side, when installed), the interface between the craddle and the seatpost has an enormous gap, the height markings are off center and the finish is terrible, much worse than even the cheapest seatposts from china. I do not recommend at all!

    Hylix Super/Ultra light Carbon Seatpost -- first impressions-20150331_114043-1.jpg

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    Looks like you have got incorrect cradle for this seatpost.

    I mentioned in another Hylix thread(there is like 4 of them) that this cradle with full rail support does not fit Hylix seatpost, although iy is sold by the same seller/s.

    Chris.

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    Quote Originally Posted by krzysiekmz View Post
    Looks like you have got incorrect cradle for this seatpost.

    I mentioned in another Hylix thread(there is like 4 of them) that this cradle with full rail support does not fit Hylix seatpost, although iy is sold by the same seller/s.

    Chris.
    Yes seems like it is the wrong one, but it aready came with the seatpost, the smaller diameter alloy one did not come included.

  20. #20
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    I finally broke down and put a little Park carbon paste on my seatpost. It was slowly slipping down as I rode.

    I used very little, not enough to make a mess really, and it holds great, even with the clamp at less than the specified 5nm torque.

    I am surprised how little you really need. I needed to remove my seatpost so it would fit in the trunk of my Escort for a long trip. I wiped the seatpost clean so that it wouldn't get on anything. I forgot to take the tube of paste with me, so I ran without it when I got there. Still zero slippage. The stuff might get embedded in the aluminum and carbon and can't be wiped off.

    I am still running the Easton. Last I checked the one I returned to China is still stuck in customs in Florida.

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    I have two of these posts on my road bikes and they're nice. Super light, good looking and have had little issue with them, One of them did loosen up at the saddle clamp but solved it quick with some lock tight. I have one of them on my crit bike (santa cruz roadster..awsome crit bike FYI, they only made them from like '04-06) with ALOT of post showing..like all the way to the limit and no worries, well i do worry because they are really flexy/comfy but thats the price ya pay for lightness. I think peoples weight here is important, I'm coming in at around 168lbs (6'0) and i would not use this if i were more like 180 and up. i've had both of them on my Bicci's for about a year and use their road bars as well.

  22. #22
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    Any more reviews on this post? I'm interested to buy one.
    Lapierre XR29ei, Chris King LB Carbon, XTR 1 X 10
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    Chiner 29er SS

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    Good job! still going strong!

    Name:  IMG_6923.JPG
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Size:  36.7 KBHi, I have the helix ultralight (i think its 180gms for a 400mm post) i have it here on my roady (santa cruz roadster) and its been on for well over a year.I have a ton of post showing all the way to its limits and its good to go. It is flexy but super comfy. get one!
    Quote Originally Posted by xcbarny View Post
    Any more reviews on this post? I'm interested to buy one.

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    I've been using mine on a Fatbike for last ~ 6 months with no issues (knock knock). 120mm in the frame, 280mm showing.

    27.2x400mm weights in at 149g with no modifications.


    Chris.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mackdhagen View Post
    Name:  IMG_6923.JPG
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Size:  36.7 KBHi, I have the helix ultralight (i think its 180gms for a 400mm post) i have it here on my roady (santa cruz roadster) and its been on for well over a year.I have a ton of post showing all the way to its limits and its good to go. It is flexy but super comfy. get one!
    Not sure if road bike use is necessarily indicative of MTB results.

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    Couldn't get the saddle attachment to stop creaking/cracking.

    Lightweight (150 grams) and looks nice, but I can't ride a noisy post so it sits on the bench now.

    Any lightweight (aluminum or carbon) posts out there that provide full saddle rail support like a Thomson?

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    I've had no issues with a "Climax" Far East carbon post which is like the Hylix ones, but lighter, cheaper (and more durable by the sounds of it). Stupid name but the logos are easy to remove and some sellers do versions without that name on the side My 27.2 is 135g and the 31.6's are 139g. I've used mine for over 3 years now, they are popular on WW and there are a few top national Marathon guys here in the UK using them very happily. I am 80kg BTW with a Tune Speedneedle, carbon assembly paste, torque wrench and occasionally common sense I have however bent a Thomson Masterpiece in normal use for comparison so take that for what you will....

  28. #28
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    I had one of the ultralight models that lasted 30 minutes. I almost had a chance to get the bike out of my basement. Just sitting on the seat with this post installed, the carbon above the aluminum pole holding the bolts cracked. I'm have been waiting 32 days for my promised refund from the eBay seller. Hylix are junk products. Pics if I could figure out how to post them.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by stew325 View Post
    Never used that either. Do you use it under shifter/brake levers?
    You could, but generally you want brake and shift levers to rotate under a crash situation, so using FRICTION PASTE would kind of seem to be the opposite of that. For carbon interfaces where you need grip, like handlebar, steerer tube, yes, use it. Also, realize that you need something in between the carbon and aluminum to prevent galvanization. Usually most carbon is clear coated or something, but in places like seat tubes and BBs the aluminum carbon interface may be direct and you'll have corrosion going on if you didn't protect it somehow.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  30. #30
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    Mine lasted 10 minutes. Cracked at the clamp point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wfl3 View Post
    Couldn't get the saddle attachment to stop creaking/cracking.

    Lightweight (150 grams) and looks nice, but I can't ride a noisy post so it sits on the bench now.

    Any lightweight (aluminum or carbon) posts out there that provide full saddle rail support like a Thomson?
    My hylix came with carbon cradle... the whole setup creaks/cracks when I shift my weight around or hit a pothole even after injecting all crevices I can find on it with grease paste/ carbon paste. Couldn't stand it and had to retire it.
    Now using pz racing CR2.1, a little bit heavier but its holds carbon rail reliably and never makes a noise.

  32. #32
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    I get it that carbon is super awesome, but for the money, a Thomson Masterpiece can't be beat for weight and craftsmanship, IMO. My Beargrease is almost all carbon bits, except for that.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by baltobrewer View Post
    I get it that carbon is super awesome, but for the money, a Thomson Masterpiece can't be beat for weight and craftsmanship, IMO. My Beargrease is almost all carbon bits, except for that.
    The carbon Hylix being discussed here is $50 shipping included. Absolute low end of the spectrum, and should not be representative of carbon in general.

    The Thomson Masterpiece is more than triple the cost. Nothing against the Thomson, but just don't let this thread turn you off quality carbon brands.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    The carbon Hylix being discussed here is $50 shipping included. Absolute low end of the spectrum, and should not be representative of carbon in general.

    The Thomson Masterpiece is more than triple the cost. Nothing against the Thomson, but just don't let this thread turn you off quality carbon brands.
    Point taken, and I get it. If you're going to buy new, the Thomspn MP is pricey, to say the least. However, with everyone jumping on the dropper post train, a used TMP can be had for a song. Picked mine up for $40, shipped. Yes, used, but also yes, affordable...just my .02.

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