Best price to weight saving ratio parts ?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Best price to weight saving ratio parts ?

    Hi,

    As I finished building my 80mm travel trail bike, I've weighted it and got a nice 36# reading... I did not use any high end parts to build the bike as my budget was very limited and therefore about every parts are not the lightest one you can find... Even if the weight does not matter a lot as this bike will be used for training purposes, I was wondering which parts I could replace to save weight by buying the best price to weight ratio I can find...

    As a example, I know that a steel coil spring of 6.5" x 1.5" shock can weight about 325g and cost about $30. I can get a Ti coil spring to weight about half, but cost 11x more, about $330... (weight example from FAQLoad - Building a weight weenie coil spring shock)

    So in this example, I get a weight saving of haft the weight for 11 the cost, about 160g/$330 or $2.06/g...

    To get this straight, I must paid each gram I save about $2.06...

    Now, is there any other parts that can be more cheap per gram ? I know rim brakes over disc to be a lot, but what about everything else ?

    I do not include the better performance of the more pricey parts in this formula... only weight, because the performance is mostly always there anyway.

    I do not need case specific example, but more general example, to high-line the best weight difference of all the parts available when building anytime of bike for any type of riding.

    Here's a pic of the bike. And no, I do not wanna change the brakes.



    The only high end and light component I've could afford will building was the seat post. Race Face Deus, 27.2mm x 400mm @ 260g that I've paid $20 + $7.80 shipping, so it cost me 260g/$27.80, about $0.01/g... Can't really go lower, since even carbon-wraped seat post are heavier at this size... And I can save up to 53g by cutting it down to 275mm...

    Thanks,

    David
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  2. #2
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    I think you can save 175-200 grams with a seat change. Comfy seats can weight between 200-250 grams, your looks like a boat anchor. FFIW, my seat weights 310 grams.

  3. #3
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    ultralight tubes. $ 6.00 a piece and save about 80 grams.

  4. #4
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    Just ride your bike. There is no point in saving a few grams here and there on a bike that weighs 36lbs.

    If you change anything get a comfortable, lighter seat, decent tires, and clipless pedals.

  5. #5
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    I wouldn't replace anything on that bike unless it wears out. Like the other guys have said, tubes, tyres and saddle can save you some noticeable weight.

    You can probably lose 100g for $10 with some foam grips.

    Your rear disc also looks massive. When it wears out go for a 160mm or even 140mm lightweight disc like the Alligator Aries. You'll need a PM adapter, but the XTR ones are only around $12. You might save another 100g for $30.

    Everything else is going to cost some serious $$$ unless you buy second hand and snap up some bargains. For example, older (pre 2009) RS SID forks are light (~1400g) and can be had for $100 or under. Your current fork probably weighs more than 2000g.

    Your rear coil shock probably weighs around 500g. $100 second hand will get you a Fox Float R and save you almost 300g.

    But seriously, I wouldn't buy anything for that bike unless you're sure you can use it on your next bike.

  6. #6
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    Don't get me wrong.. nothing personal... your bike is probably better than mine... and I don't know anything about you (age, weight, fitness level, skill etc..) but perhaps you might want to save your money and concentrate on improving your fitness level before becoming too concerned on shaving bike weight.

    back yard bashing and recreational riding doesn't require weight weenie investments. if you plan on competitive racing you will be investing in a more expensive bike anyway.

    however, if you are uber rich and just want to have the lightest FS bike... you'll still be looking into buying a carbon FS bike with ultra weenie parts.

    I highly recommend looking into second hand parts for your upgrades. you can find some great deals that will be significant in the price to weight ratio.

    my last two cents would be to agree with Yogii... that seat can easily be replaced for a big weight savings at low cost.

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys.

    I was looking fir a bit of improvement, but did not where to start.

    The saddle will probably be changed, as I have a WTB at home.

    I knew about the rear shock, but I'm currently saving money for a Fox Van RC for my FR bike (lot better bike). But you are right about having a air shock, for performance, weight and price.

    The SID fork is a good idea, since it's not too expensive for a used one. Mine is currently a Dart 2 coil about 4-5 lbs. I will check this out for sure.

    I also make sure that every part are the most common size to be able to transfer them to a new frame if this one go wrong.

    For the rear brake, I had to go with a 203mm, since it will be a replacement for one on my FR bike and the old one (less powerful, BB5) will go on that bike.

    I had no idea on how much a good tube can shave that much weight. It's definitively something I will look out for when buying tubes

    Thanks everyone and more infos and suggestions are welcomes

    David
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by COLINx86 View Post
    Just ride your bike. There is no point in saving a few grams here and there on a bike that weighs 36lbs.

    If you change anything get a comfortable, lighter seat, decent tires, and clipless pedals.
    Agreed
    CyclingCentralVa.org

  9. #9
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    Ya, i agree with everyone...with a bike that heavy, its going to cost you a TON to shave the weight. Prob more than what it would cost you for a new bike...just something to consider.

    Ride it, get your legs strong (shouldnt be hard with a 36lbs bike), learn on it...once it breaks, upgrade to a newer better made bike.

    IF YOU MUST upgrade something...make sure its something you can take with you when you get a new bike. Most common weight reduction upgrades are Handlebars, Seatpost, Stem, Wheelset, Crankset, tires and cassette.

    With those 6 things alone, you can drop 3-5lbs easy...if not more.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighLife420 View Post
    Ya, i agree with everyone...with a bike that heavy, its going to cost you a TON to shave the weight. Prob more than what it would cost you for a new bike...just something to consider.

    Ride it, get your legs strong (shouldnt be hard with a 36lbs bike), learn on it...once it breaks, upgrade to a newer better made bike.

    IF YOU MUST upgrade something...make sure its something you can take with you when you get a new bike. Most common weight reduction upgrades are Handlebars, Seatpost, Stem, Wheelset, Crankset, tires and cassette.

    With those 6 things alone, you can drop 3-5lbs easy...if not more.
    Well, I build the bike myself with parts I had and some new ones, so I'm more looking into upgrading the low end parts that I already had and wanted to see where I can start to do so.

    Saddle, fork and tubes are nice ideas. Tires, shock and pedals too, but are not worth it for this bike.

    I don't have to upgrade anything now, but when I get a good deal, I just want to know if the savings are there... I got tons of great deals while building it, but they were not affordable all together. But once in a while, I always look to get a new part. Now I know which parts to look for. This bike only cost me $300 and perform like a $800 one, but have the weight of an 160mm one...

    And yes I always make sure to get the more compatible components each time... Because I might upgrade the frame sometime... But not soon.

    The frame itself weight 7lbs, with the 2 black steel link weighting a pound each... So I might look at having custom aluminum ones made at my college for almost no money, only the cost of the material.

    Thanks,

    David
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  11. #11
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    To the OP, what is your goal exactly? If you're trying to go faster than nothing's better than upgrading your wheels and using the lightest tubeless tires. You can have a super cheap heavy bike but with proper gear ratios, light ws, tires, chain (always use KMC X9SL!!!). Ahh yes, the chain is probably what you'd want to upgrade right away. The KMC SL line is titanium coated so it doesn't rust, super stiff, way lighter than XTR chain, and never snaps.

    But this bike is for training right? I actually replaced my X0's with the new 2012 Deore to add weight. No difference in speed due to the more efficient chainring sizes.
    Titux X Carbon 2010 race 9.93kg
    Titux X 2009 "Deore 2012" training 11.55kg

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Veda View Post
    To the OP, what is your goal exactly? If you're trying to go faster than nothing's better than upgrading your wheels and using the lightest tubeless tires. You can have a super cheap heavy bike but with proper gear ratios, light ws, tires, chain (always use KMC X9SL!!!). Ahh yes, the chain is probably what you'd want to upgrade right away. The KMC SL line is titanium coated so it doesn't rust, super stiff, way lighter than XTR chain, and never snaps.

    But this bike is for training right? I actually replaced my X0's with the new 2012 Deore to add weight. No difference in speed due to the more efficient chainring sizes.
    Just wanna know the best bang for my money when I will have to choose what to upgrade next when I get the money...

    And I can't afford any X0 or XTR... X-7 would be the max I could go for that bike... And X-9 for my freeride one...

    But this bike will be used for hauling my ass around town (don't have a car) and for riding my local trails on lunch time or brake during week and weekends... But it got to be lighter somehow when I upgrade parts...

    Not looking into spending more then $100 more on this bike. I have another build on it's way and need to money for it... Full time college w/small job don't let me much time to hang around, so when I do, I want to enjoy it the best I can...

    I also use the KMC X8.93 chain (had a good deal on it) and I'm pretty happy with. That SL chain sounds a bit expensive for me for what I do. And I do not let my bikes rust... They are all cleaned after each ride and well maintained.

    Thanks,

    David
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  13. #13
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    For 100$, your best bet is tires. If you could swing another 50$, tires and tubeless.

  14. #14
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    I'd say, just get the new Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.1 (490gr each) and set that up tubeless (+30gr). That would save you a whole lot of rotational weight which has an actual effect to the ride as if you slimmed down 5x that saved weight, and yet you'll be able to ride on asphalt or offroad.
    Titux X Carbon 2010 race 9.93kg
    Titux X 2009 "Deore 2012" training 11.55kg

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