Best approx 1650-1750gram wheelset- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Best approx 1650-1750gram wheelset

    For a 5" travel bike (ie, no 28 spoke flexy wheel) that I will use for 24 hour racing but will also use for regular trailriding (but not drops or anything real hardcore), what might be a great wheelchoice in your opinion in the approx 1700 gram range?

    Perhaps a few grams more, I am currently thinking"
    * Hadley Hubs
    * DT Swiss XR4.1d
    * Supercomp spokes

    I know....I had this virtual wheelset at one point and sold the bike so save your breath and I'll say it, "I am an idiot".....


    Cheers

  2. #2
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    I've been looking at getting a similar wheelset for my Giant VT (5-5.7") for trail riding. I was playing with the wheel builder thing over at speedgoat and was thinking about.... (all 32H)

    Hope XC disc hubs (in red ), Mavic 717, DT rev, DT alloy nips = 1770g
    XTR lockring disc and the rest as above = 1726g

  3. #3
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    XR4.1d

    I'm not too happy with my XR4.1d rims. They are too narrow for 2.0 and greater tires. My rear rim got dented pretty bad on a medium hit - actually caused a flat and nearly left me stranded. Plus they are not light. For a trail rim I'd go with the Mavic 819 or Velocity VXC. One good thing about the XR4.1d is that it works well for me converted tubeless by taping the spoke holes (those eclipse rimstrips are useless).

    I just ordered a light race rear wheel and considered the Hadley, but went with the White Industries DJ. The Hadley looks great, but with all 108 engagement points is heavy and draggy. For the front hub I like the WTB laser disc, but you may have the get new bearings every year or so.



    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    For a 5" travel bike (ie, no 28 spoke flexy wheel) that I will use for 24 hour racing but will also use for regular trailriding (but not drops or anything real hardcore), what might be a great wheelchoice in your opinion in the approx 1700 gram range?

    Perhaps a few grams more, I am currently thinking"
    * Hadley Hubs
    * DT Swiss XR4.1d
    * Supercomp spokes

    I know....I had this virtual wheelset at one point and sold the bike so save your breath and I'll say it, "I am an idiot".....


    Cheers
    M

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated
    I'm not too happy with my XR4.1d rims. They are too narrow for 2.0 and greater tires. My rear rim got dented pretty bad on a medium hit - actually caused a flat and nearly left me stranded. Plus they are not light. For a trail rim I'd go with the Mavic 819 or Velocity VXC. One good thing about the XR4.1d is that it works well for me converted tubeless by taping the spoke holes (those eclipse rimstrips are useless).

    I just ordered a light race rear wheel and considered the Hadley, but went with the White Industries DJ. The Hadley looks great, but with all 108 engagement points is heavy and draggy. For the front hub I like the WTB laser disc, but you may have the get new bearings every year or so.
    I have had very good luck with DT Swiss. They are not heavy in my book....425 grams (vs 510 grams for 819s). Of course once I add a tubless conversion the weight difference becomes smaller but stil lighter and much better customer service if need be....not a fan of Mavic personally, and no, not because it is a French company.

    I have a different experience and found them to be excellent and much better than 317s I have had in the past for what it is worth. I have also had excellent luck with the DT Swiss conversion kit but my guess is like with Stans, tire choice will dictate which configuration works well or not. Results will vary obviously so hopefully if I get them again, I will have the same good luck. I have also had good luck with Velocity in the past. You are right, they may perhaps take a wider tire as they are 1.9mm wider outside width (not sure of the inside width difference) but the DT swiss is a taller rim by 1.5mm so theoretically stronger against certain forces. But you make a good point....I will at least see what the price difference is which may of course be a factor.

    I thought about the Laserdisc Lite but I want something more robust.

    Thanks for the input

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    I have had very good luck with DT Swiss. They are not heavy in my book....425 grams (vs 510 grams for 819s). Of course once I add a tubless conversion the weight difference becomes smaller but stil lighter and much better customer service if need be....not a fan of Mavic personally, and no, not because it is a French company.

    I have a different experience and found them to be excellent and much better than 317s I have had in the past for what it is worth. I have also had excellent luck with the DT Swiss conversion kit but my guess is like with Stans, tire choice will dictate which configuration works well or not. Results will vary obviously so hopefully if I get them again, I will have the same good luck. I have also had good luck with Velocity in the past. You are right, they may perhaps take a wider tire as they are 1.9mm wider outside width (not sure of the inside width difference) but the DT swiss is a taller rim by 1.5mm so theoretically stronger against certain forces. But you make a good point....I will at least see what the price difference is which may of course be a factor.

    I thought about the Laserdisc Lite but I want something more robust.

    Thanks for the input

    I have had fantastic luck with the Cane Creek Zonos Disc Team wheelset (1666gr). They are hands down the best wheelset I have ever ridden--stiff, relatively light, tubeless, almost non existant drag, and they spin up amazingly quick. I've been pounding on them for about three months now (~650 miles), every single day they have been ridden has been on resort trails here in mammoth (rocky, rough, just tough on wheels) with the exception of the six races I've ran on them. I've jumped them, dropped them, crashed them, and have just generally abused them. To give you some perspective, I weigh 225lbs and have been pounding them on my cross country hardtail (Soul Cycles Rufus). The bike is pretty amazing too, not one complaint from either the bike or wheels, but I'll be doing writeup on the bike next week.

    Bottom line, these things have taken everything i've thrown at them and are still as true and lightning fast (actually I think they've gotten a bit faster) as the day I took them out of the box. Great wheels!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    For a 5" travel bike (ie, no 28 spoke flexy wheel) that I will use for 24 hour racing but will also use for regular trailriding (but not drops or anything real hardcore), what might be a great wheelchoice in your opinion in the approx 1700 gram range?

    Perhaps a few grams more, I am currently thinking"
    * Hadley Hubs
    * DT Swiss XR4.1d
    * Supercomp spokes

    I know....I had this virtual wheelset at one point and sold the bike so save your breath and I'll say it, "I am an idiot".....


    Cheers
    check out richardsbicycles.com. They have some good deals on hadley build wheels. You should check out the new stans olympic rims. Very light and stong. I'm running some olympic rims and chris king hubs and the wheels are equally as light as my old mavic crossmax set.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SocalSuperhero
    I have had fantastic luck with the Cane Creek Zonos Disc Team wheelset (1666gr). They are hands down the best wheelset I have ever ridden--stiff, relatively light, tubeless, almost non existant drag, and they spin up amazingly quick. I've been pounding on them for about three months now (~650 miles), every single day they have been ridden has been on resort trails here in mammoth (rocky, rough, just tough on wheels) with the exception of the six races I've ran on them. I've jumped them, dropped them, crashed them, and have just generally abused them. To give you some perspective, I weigh 225lbs and have been pounding them on my cross country hardtail (Soul Cycles Rufus). The bike is pretty amazing too, not one complaint from either the bike or wheels, but I'll be doing writeup on the bike next week.

    Bottom line, these things have taken everything i've thrown at them and are still as true and lightning fast (actually I think they've gotten a bit faster) as the day I took them out of the box. Great wheels!
    very nice review....I had heard of them only and really knew nothing of them.

    it looks like (based on real quick browsing) that there are 2 versions out there. One version apparently called the Zonos disc SS (I thought at first single speed but am guessing it stands for stainless steel) and comes in at just under 1800 grams and has stainless steel spokes (eg, $499 at greenfishsports). I assume you are talking about the Zonos Disc Team which does look very interesting and is nice at 1666 grams. Looks like they can be had for about $599 with minimal shopping around which aint bad....may have to research those more.

    Thanks!

  8. #8
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    that does look great....i just saw those yesterday.

    so should i be concerned with the fact that the rims only weigh 385 grams? did stan basically create the ideal rim such that it is strong and light? sounds too good to be true....

  9. #9
    smw
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    Interesting, Im gonna have to look at these. The price is right, and so is the weight.

  10. #10
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    WTB laserdisc

    The laser disc lite hub body is the best there is in my opinion. It is the lightest, stiffest out there and further saves weight because the flanges are really tall. The problem is the internals - the rear drive mech. is way hokey, but also the bearings which do wear, but since they are backed by WTB and not AmClassic you are assured of getting quality bearings for replacements. So I think it makes a great front hub. If you look at weights and flange heights you will see nothing comes close. Be carefull of picking your hub based on the rear and assuming the front will be equivalent. For that matter you should not automatically put the same spokes front and rear or use the same rim. I use thicker spokes up front and using a wider rim up front is also a good idea.

    The XR4.1d is heavy considering it is narrow and weak (in my experience - and actually a riding friend also bent his XR4.1d rim). The inside is really narrow because of the extra meat they put on the bead. I've beat the hell out of my x3.1 rims - I remember once botching a curb jump, exploding the tire and could not find any damage to the rim. They are heavy but at least it goes to good use. Also for endurance events, etc as you mention you don't have to deal with any tubeless conversion. Speaking of which, the eclipse kit is bogus it is simply a really heavy spoke hole seal - just using some good tape is better. Sealant eventually works between the double stick tape and the pink rim strip and with tire pressure the rim strip begins to get dislodged and all hell breaks loose. It works for a while then becomes a headache. It does not help the tire mount and does not help the tire seal - what tipped me off to that is the big weld where the rim strip is put together. If you have to change a tire in a race that thing will be a huge liability. Anyway, bottom line is if you don't have true tubeless rims then tape is the way to go. I use kapton tape from http://www.mcmaster.com/





    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    I have had very good luck with DT Swiss. They are not heavy in my book....425 grams (vs 510 grams for 819s). Of course once I add a tubless conversion the weight difference becomes smaller but stil lighter and much better customer service if need be....not a fan of Mavic personally, and no, not because it is a French company.

    I have a different experience and found them to be excellent and much better than 317s I have had in the past for what it is worth. I have also had excellent luck with the DT Swiss conversion kit but my guess is like with Stans, tire choice will dictate which configuration works well or not. Results will vary obviously so hopefully if I get them again, I will have the same good luck. I have also had good luck with Velocity in the past. You are right, they may perhaps take a wider tire as they are 1.9mm wider outside width (not sure of the inside width difference) but the DT swiss is a taller rim by 1.5mm so theoretically stronger against certain forces. But you make a good point....I will at least see what the price difference is which may of course be a factor.

    I thought about the Laserdisc Lite but I want something more robust.

    Thanks for the input
    M

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated
    The laser disc lite hub body is the best there is in my opinion. It is the lightest, stiffest out there and further saves weight because the flanges are really tall. The problem is the internals - the rear drive mech. is way hokey, but also the bearings which do wear, but since they are backed by WTB and not AmClassic you are assured of getting quality bearings for replacements. So I think it makes a great front hub. If you look at weights and flange heights you will see nothing comes close. Be carefull of picking your hub based on the rear and assuming the front will be equivalent. For that matter you should not automatically put the same spokes front and rear or use the same rim. I use thicker spokes up front and using a wider rim up front is also a good idea.

    The XR4.1d is heavy considering it is narrow and weak (in my experience - and actually a riding friend also bent his XR4.1d rim). The inside is really narrow because of the extra meat they put on the bead. I've beat the hell out of my x3.1 rims - I remember once botching a curb jump, exploding the tire and could not find any damage to the rim. They are heavy but at least it goes to good use. Also for endurance events, etc as you mention you don't have to deal with any tubeless conversion. Speaking of which, the eclipse kit is bogus it is simply a really heavy spoke hole seal - just using some good tape is better. Sealant eventually works between the double stick tape and the pink rim strip and with tire pressure the rim strip begins to get dislodged and all hell breaks loose. It works for a while then becomes a headache. It does not help the tire mount and does not help the tire seal - what tipped me off to that is the big weld where the rim strip is put together. If you have to change a tire in a race that thing will be a huge liability. Anyway, bottom line is if you don't have true tubeless rims then tape is the way to go. I use kapton tape from http://www.mcmaster.com/
    do you have experience with stans olympic rims? if so, how would you characterize those in terms of their overall robustness? in terms of width, they are reasonably wide and in fact, the same width (outside) as the 819s (23mm) but of course WAY lighter so I wonder what gets sacrificed?

    thanks for the reply by the way...

    cheers

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motivated
    The laser disc lite hub body is the best there is in my opinion. It is the lightest, stiffest out there and further saves weight because the flanges are really tall. The problem is the internals - the rear drive mech. is way hokey, but also the bearings which do wear, but since they are backed by WTB and not AmClassic you are assured of getting quality bearings for replacements. So I think it makes a great front hub. If you look at weights and flange heights you will see nothing comes close. Be carefull of picking your hub based on the rear and assuming the front will be equivalent. For that matter you should not automatically put the same spokes front and rear or use the same rim. I use thicker spokes up front and using a wider rim up front is also a good idea.

    The XR4.1d is heavy considering it is narrow and weak (in my experience - and actually a riding friend also bent his XR4.1d rim). The inside is really narrow because of the extra meat they put on the bead. I've beat the hell out of my x3.1 rims - I remember once botching a curb jump, exploding the tire and could not find any damage to the rim. They are heavy but at least it goes to good use. Also for endurance events, etc as you mention you don't have to deal with any tubeless conversion. Speaking of which, the eclipse kit is bogus it is simply a really heavy spoke hole seal - just using some good tape is better. Sealant eventually works between the double stick tape and the pink rim strip and with tire pressure the rim strip begins to get dislodged and all hell breaks loose. It works for a while then becomes a headache. It does not help the tire mount and does not help the tire seal - what tipped me off to that is the big weld where the rim strip is put together. If you have to change a tire in a race that thing will be a huge liability. Anyway, bottom line is if you don't have true tubeless rims then tape is the way to go. I use kapton tape from http://www.mcmaster.com/
    I couldn't disagree more about the DT rim. I ride them myself on 2 bikes, and have probably built in the neighborhood of 150-200 wheelsets with them. They are not weak by any stretch of the imagination (for their weight). Yes, they are pretty narrow, but if you run appropriate tire pressure for the conditions, the equipment your using, and your riding style then they will hold up VERY well. It's important to compare apples to apples here, instead of comparing them to significantly heavier rims. The 2 closest competitors are the 717 and Velocity VXC, the DT rim is only about 25g heavier than the 717 and 10g heavier than the VXC, but significantly stiffer and stronger than both in my experience. I haven't found another rim in its weight range that holds up as well. If you are denting them that badly then you're either running tire pressure too low, or not running the appropriate rim for your needs. From the sound of it, a rim in the 500g range is probably the lower limit of what you should be running for your particular needs. The 3.1/819 is about 90g heavier per rim than the DT, so of course they will tend to hold up better.

    Honestly, they wouldn't be my top recomendation to a customer for the type riding I do myself (5"/6" trail bike, fast/aggressive riding in rocky technical terrain, 195lb rider) but it's a lot cheaper for me to rebuild a wheel than for a customer to, so I do it because I can. Yet, I'm constantly blown away by the abuse these things take, I'm not a gentle rider, and the terrain here is hard on wheels, but I'm still getting at least a year out of rear ones and more for front.

    FWIW, I typically recommend the opposite as what you mentioned, the rear wheel is subjected to far more abuse (and has more dish), so I'd do stronger in back and lighter in front. I could kinda see the argument for running wider in front for those who like to run a big front tire and narrower rear tire, but for spokes I definitely think the stronger ones belong on the rear wheel.

    Larry Mettler
    Mountain High Cyclery
    "It is inhumane, in my opinion, to force people who have a genuine medical need for coffee to wait in line behind people who apparently view it as some kind of recreational activity". - Dave Barry

  13. #13
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    guess I was unlucky

    It is impossible to describe one's riding style, but the DT was on my race bike and I tend to treat it gingerly when trail riding. Unfortunately, I did whack a square edged rock which bent the side wall and prevented the tire bead from sealing - the tire, a racing ralph at ~35psi was fine, btw. I fixed the rim wall, but the rim was still out of true a bit and over a few week period got worse and worse to the point it had to be replaced (two local techs refused to try to true the wheel becaause the tension was already so high on the side that needed to be tightened). Considering the hit it took I guess I'm OK with their durability, but the rim is too narrow for modern (i.e. 2.0/2.1) XC tires which likely contributed to it's demise. Actually, the 717 and VXC are also too narrow .

    I beleive a wider and rim will provide better traction and rolling resistance (because you can run lower pressures) which far outweighs the possible extra weight. Of course, some wide rims actually weigh less, but then there is a durability trade off.

    I like stiffer spokes in front to maximize steering precision. If the rear wheel flexes it isn't noticed as much.

    Possible wheelset (total = 1810g):
    F: WTB LDL (160g), DT supercomp 2.0/1.7/2.0 (159g), Mavic 819 (~500g), Al nips (11g). F = 830g.
    R: White Ind DJ Ti (310g), DT supercomp 2.0/1.7/2.0 (159g), Mavic 819 (~500g), Al nips (11g). R = 980g.

    Possible wheelset (total = 1580g):
    F: WTB LDL (160g), DT supercomp 2.0/1.7/2.0 (159g), Stans Olympic 385 (385g), Al nips (11g). F = 715g.
    R: White Ind DJ Ti (310g), DT supercomp 2.0/1.7/2.0 (159g), Stans Olympic 385 (385g), Al nips (11g). R = 865g.




    Quote Originally Posted by Ventanarama
    I couldn't disagree more about the DT rim. I ride them myself on 2 bikes, and have probably built in the neighborhood of 150-200 wheelsets with them. They are not weak by any stretch of the imagination (for their weight). Yes, they are pretty narrow, but if you run appropriate tire pressure for the conditions, the equipment your using, and your riding style then they will hold up VERY well. It's important to compare apples to apples here, instead of comparing them to significantly heavier rims. The 2 closest competitors are the 717 and Velocity VXC, the DT rim is only about 25g heavier than the 717 and 10g heavier than the VXC, but significantly stiffer and stronger than both in my experience. I haven't found another rim in its weight range that holds up as well. If you are denting them that badly then you're either running tire pressure too low, or not running the appropriate rim for your needs. From the sound of it, a rim in the 500g range is probably the lower limit of what you should be running for your particular needs. The 3.1/819 is about 90g heavier per rim than the DT, so of course they will tend to hold up better.

    Honestly, they wouldn't be my top recomendation to a customer for the type riding I do myself (5"/6" trail bike, fast/aggressive riding in rocky technical terrain, 195lb rider) but it's a lot cheaper for me to rebuild a wheel than for a customer to, so I do it because I can. Yet, I'm constantly blown away by the abuse these things take, I'm not a gentle rider, and the terrain here is hard on wheels, but I'm still getting at least a year out of rear ones and more for front.

    FWIW, I typically recommend the opposite as what you mentioned, the rear wheel is subjected to far more abuse (and has more dish), so I'd do stronger in back and lighter in front. I could kinda see the argument for running wider in front for those who like to run a big front tire and narrower rear tire, but for spokes I definitely think the stronger ones belong on the rear wheel.

    Larry Mettler
    Mountain High Cyclery
    M

  14. #14
    FPC
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoShizzle
    that does look great....i just saw those yesterday.

    so should i be concerned with the fact that the rims only weigh 385 grams? did stan basically create the ideal rim such that it is strong and light? sounds too good to be true....
    I'm hoping too good to be true and so far am pleased with my set built by Dave Thomas - SpeedDreams.com - WTB LDLs + Olympics. The Olympics I got were hand marked 358g each. Confirmed bare weights (no tape, skewer, rotor, tire) were 665g Front Wheel and 785g Rear Wheel. Add to that about 20g per wheel for tape and stem + sealant and tire = sick light disc/tubeless set. They are built 32 spoke 3x. I've only had them 5 weeks or so now but they've been raced and ridden hard without a problem - knock. I've run conti explorer supersonic front (470g) and Kenda Karma rear (450g) for 3 races without incident - typically run explorer protections for riding. I used stan's conversion kit + "regular" rims previously for several months and liked the stan's thing enough to try the Olympics. The Olympics bare weight + don't need the rubber rim strip = 1/2 lb +/- weight saved compared to say a 410g rim + stan's conversion rubber rim strip. For me teh Olympics have been are easier to switch tires (which I like to do) and they seal easier/faster. Plus - the main problem I had with Stans (besides that I use a floor pump to fill - so sealing was always a workout) was that the rubber strip would crack at the stem and not seal - it happened on a couple wheels - need to be very careful with connecting/disconnecting stem to pump. On the down side - the Olympics are a new/different/unique design and the seams in my rims are prominent and ugly - I took off the rim stickers which if you care weigh only 1 g per wheel total - but I didn't like the look. I spoke with Dave quite a bit on which hub to go with (I have an AC 205 Rear Hub - not disk) that works perfect at the moment but has been put out of commission 3 times for various reasons - and so I was skeptical on the WTB design which is so similar. Dave was positive about the AC Design generally and what WTB did to it - wider flanges and different (better) bearings being the things I recall him mentioning. Dave was also positive about the strength and quality of the Olympics - I remember him mentioning the seam welds as ugly but strong looking. So anyway - I've beat on mine (rough XC) for over a month - I weigh 175 lbs - and I'm happy.

  15. #15
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    I'll have to say Bonti Mustangs...

    I've had great luck with Bonti Mustangs. Reasonably light at 420g (claimed) and I have never tweaked them. I did ding a rim brake version Bonti Mustang rim when I nailed a rock at speed on my old wheelset.

    My current wheelset:

    Bonti Mustang Disc rim. I bought the UST rim strips but don't have them on
    Hope XC hubs
    DT Swiss 14/15 spokes
    DT Swiss Alloy nipples
    Hope Skewers

    I don't have exact weight, but they seem pretty light, stiff and snappy. Not too horribly expensive either. IIRC, I paid about $350 at universalcycles.com.

    I'm nearly 200# fully geared up and ride mostly XC, sometimes with techy rock gardens or baby heads. I have pounded these down the trails at Downieville, raced them at Sea Otter and generally am not light or easy on them, but they don't complain at all.

  16. #16
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    Only problem is getting ahold of Bonti Mustangs. Trek's making 'em a dissapearing commodity. I don't think they can even be found on the Bonti- Website anymore.

    Why buy a $700 wheelset when you build your own with some $50 rims?

    It's a pity too, it <i>was</i> at the top of my list. Got Velocity Synergy Asyms instead. Nice rims. Only (very minor) complaint was that they are pinned and not welded, but for a disc rim, it won't make a difference. Not that these would be the best choice for Fo though.

    I just finished building a set of WTB hubs (F & R) with Sun UFO front and Velocity Synergy Rear with WS db spokes. Came in easily under 1600g. If it would have been full retail would have been about a $350 wheelset. Didn't pay full retail though.

    I'm also at 200 pounds, but normally, but moderately light on a wheelset. I taco'd my first front wheel in about 3 years this summer.

    Later,

    JmZ


    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    I've had great luck with Bonti Mustangs. Reasonably light at 420g (claimed) and I have never tweaked them. I did ding a rim brake version Bonti Mustang rim when I nailed a rock at speed on my old wheelset.

    My current wheelset:

    Bonti Mustang Disc rim. I bought the UST rim strips but don't have them on
    Hope XC hubs
    DT Swiss 14/15 spokes
    DT Swiss Alloy nipples
    Hope Skewers

    I don't have exact weight, but they seem pretty light, stiff and snappy. Not too horribly expensive either. IIRC, I paid about $350 at universalcycles.com.

    I'm nearly 200# fully geared up and ride mostly XC, sometimes with techy rock gardens or baby heads. I have pounded these down the trails at Downieville, raced them at Sea Otter and generally am not light or easy on them, but they don't complain at all.
    JmZ

    From one flat land to another.

    Advocate as if your ride depends on it...

  17. #17
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    17,276
    Quote Originally Posted by FPC
    I'm hoping too good to be true and so far am pleased with my set built by Dave Thomas - SpeedDreams.com - WTB LDLs + Olympics. The Olympics I got were hand marked 358g each. Confirmed bare weights (no tape, skewer, rotor, tire) were 665g Front Wheel and 785g Rear Wheel. Add to that about 20g per wheel for tape and stem + sealant and tire = sick light disc/tubeless set. They are built 32 spoke 3x. I've only had them 5 weeks or so now but they've been raced and ridden hard without a problem - knock. I've run conti explorer supersonic front (470g) and Kenda Karma rear (450g) for 3 races without incident - typically run explorer protections for riding. I used stan's conversion kit + "regular" rims previously for several months and liked the stan's thing enough to try the Olympics. The Olympics bare weight + don't need the rubber rim strip = 1/2 lb +/- weight saved compared to say a 410g rim + stan's conversion rubber rim strip. For me teh Olympics have been are easier to switch tires (which I like to do) and they seal easier/faster. Plus - the main problem I had with Stans (besides that I use a floor pump to fill - so sealing was always a workout) was that the rubber strip would crack at the stem and not seal - it happened on a couple wheels - need to be very careful with connecting/disconnecting stem to pump. On the down side - the Olympics are a new/different/unique design and the seams in my rims are prominent and ugly - I took off the rim stickers which if you care weigh only 1 g per wheel total - but I didn't like the look. I spoke with Dave quite a bit on which hub to go with (I have an AC 205 Rear Hub - not disk) that works perfect at the moment but has been put out of commission 3 times for various reasons - and so I was skeptical on the WTB design which is so similar. Dave was positive about the AC Design generally and what WTB did to it - wider flanges and different (better) bearings being the things I recall him mentioning. Dave was also positive about the strength and quality of the Olympics - I remember him mentioning the seam welds as ugly but strong looking. So anyway - I've beat on mine (rough XC) for over a month - I weigh 175 lbs - and I'm happy.
    Thanks for that. I cant help but be real curious about the Olympic rims. It sounds like the newer sub 385 gram version of the Olympic may be something to consider. It is a little more robust than the 347 gram version and the folks at Stans who provided me feedback recommend them for my needs.

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