Chain lube for the winter- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Chain lube for the winter

    What kinda chain lubes are you guys using for the winter? Primary trails would be Patapsco with some Watershed/Gambrill thrown in. My bottle of White Lightning Epic is down to the last few drops.

  2. #2
    I am the owl
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    I've been using DumondeTech for at least the last six months and it's good for a wide range of conditions including what you are looking for. Prior to that my go to winter lube was Finishline Crosscountry. Both are wet lubes and work best when you take the extra 60 seconds to put a drop on each link instead of applying heavily and just shooting it all over the chain. Spin the drivetrain a few times then wipe down with a rag and you are ready to go.
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  3. #3
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    I agree with riderx, taking the time not to overspray and to wipe off the excess lube keeps the drivetrain running smooth. Spinning the chain afterwards lets the lube creap into the o-rings, where it should be. Also it helps if you clean the crud off the chain,crank rings and cassette with a steel brush prior to lubing. I use a tacky lube when my chain is squeaky and a silckier lube the rest of the time. Depending on what the drivetrain looks and sounds like determines which lube I use. Hope this helps you out

  4. #4
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    Homebrew Prolink clone. Mineral Spirits and Motor Oil. I use 2:1 mineral spirits to oil. Apply liberally and wipe off excess. Mix up a 5 year supply for 10 bucks..
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  5. #5
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    I read once that putting a few drops of auto anti- freeze in your lube keeps things from freezing up. An interesting article can be found at icebike.org about setting up your rear hub pawl bearings for cold weather. The tool you need to get into your pawls is at biketoolsetc.com and is called the EVT Shimano freehub tool. When you are at icebike.org, put " winterizing your freehubs" in their search to bring up the article. I guess the grease they use in that article is good for anything that needs greasing in the winter. Google search to find a supplier for the grease. ---zarr
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  7. #7
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    Thanks for the tips, guys.

    I've read a lot of good reviews on the Dumonde Tech. Riderx, how often do you relube with this stuff?

    269er, good point on the tacky vs slicker lubes. What brands work well for you?

    VaughnA, why mineral spirits? Why not just go with a lower viscosity synthetic oil like Mobil 1 0W20? Sorry, it's the motorhead in me talking .

    Zarr, thanks for the link. Interesting articles. The one on freehub winterizing might be bit overkill for MD but it's good to know it can be done. If anything, I noticed that the derailleur cables will freeze first, thanks to getting them wet through stream crossings.

    BRR, never heard of boeshield but I'll have to check it out.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by eujinc
    Thanks for the tips, guys.

    I've read a lot of good reviews on the Dumonde Tech. Riderx, how often do you relube with this stuff?

    269er, good point on the tacky vs slicker lubes. What brands work well for you?

    VaughnA, why mineral spirits? Why not just go with a lower viscosity synthetic oil like Mobil 1 0W20? Sorry, it's the motorhead in me talking .

    Zarr, thanks for the link. Interesting articles. The one on freehub winterizing might be bit overkill for MD but it's good to know it can be done. If anything, I noticed that the derailleur cables will freeze first, thanks to getting them wet through stream crossings.

    BRR, never heard of boeshield but I'll have to check it out.
    A couple of drops of anti-freeze in your lube might do the trick for cables too. And lubing your pawl bearings is almos always overlooked, and even though the grease lasts for a long time eventually it will wear out. That tool at biketoolsetc.com is extremely hard to find. That is the only place I've ever seen it. Keep your wheelsets alive. You can put new bearings in it too. Now that disc brakes are here and the rims won't get grinded down, wheelsets can last a long long time. Talk to you later.---zarr
    roccowt.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by zarr
    I read once that putting a few drops of auto anti- freeze in your lube keeps things from freezing up. An interesting article can be found at icebike.org about setting up your rear hub pawl bearings for cold weather. The tool you need to get into your pawls is at biketoolsetc.com and is called the EVT Shimano freehub tool. When you are at icebike.org, put " winterizing your freehubs" in their search to bring up the article. I guess the grease they use in that article is good for anything that needs greasing in the winter. Google search to find a supplier for the grease. ---zarr
    For virginia I don't think you really need anything extra. And definitely no reason for anti-freeze in chainlube! The oil and mineral spirits won't freeze anyway!
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by eujinc
    Thanks for the tips, guys.


    VaughnA, why mineral spirits? Why not just go with a lower viscosity synthetic oil like Mobil 1 0W20? Sorry, it's the motorhead in me talking .
    Mineral spriits are basically a carrier for the oil. It thins it out enough to get down inside the links then it eventually evaporates leaving the oil deeper inside the links. Do a search on MTBR for homebrew. It's basically the same thing as prolink for a very small fraction of the cost. IMHO there isn't enough advantage to the other lubes to pay big bucks. If you take care to wipe off the excess and occasionally clean your drivetrain then homebrew is as good or better than any of the high dollar stuff.
    What do I want to be when I grow up.....Dead!

  11. #11
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    ProGold Prolink chain lube - I have been using it with good results. http://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/...49_131crx.aspx

  12. #12
    the mountian is within
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    We use Prolink-and if really snow/mud a lil phil wood on that.
    Prolink is "enviro-frindly" their website says.
    I have washed lots of oil into our streams in the last 20yrs of riding-so i want to stop being so nasty(karma)
    any one have any luck with the bio-safe lubes?Like Phil's or Pedro's?
    Not an issue if has to be reapplied alot-just think about all the streams we splash thru in a year-every drop adds up!
    Bz
    i own a bikeshop in WV thetruewheelwv.com

  13. #13
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    I have been using 0w 20 mobil one for 2 years seems to work well , one quart will last a long time 6$. i was thinking about adding some kind of additive to it maybe slick50 or something like that

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by eujinc
    Thanks for the tips, guys.

    269er, good point on the tacky vs slicker lubes. What brands work well for you?
    I have used all kinds of lubes over the years and have generally stuck with motorcycle lubes. For the last five years I have been using the same thing with great results. I use HP Pro w/Moly and the tackier one is HP Pro w/White Graphite. It's made by Honda and can be purchased at Dutrow's Honda (301-473-8117 http://www.dutrowshonda.com/) on Rt. 40 about three miles before you get to Gambrill Park Rd in Frederick, Md.

    There is a difference between slicker and silkier....silky is when the lube still has enough tack that it stays on the chain. The slick stuff I have used just got all over the drivetrain.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by eujinc
    I've read a lot of good reviews on the Dumonde Tech. Riderx, how often do you relube with this stuff?
    Every couple of rides. It really depends on how long the rides are and what the conditions are.
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  16. #16
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    I also make my own using mineral spirits,synthetic motor oil and Dupont teflon car wax.

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